Monacoers Daily News

As mentioned, the big boy is not associated.

Go to the transfer switch and check incoming voltages there or open AC breaker panel and check there. It might be a missing leg coming in.

Since generator is providing power to both legs, starting at the transfer switch would be my first stop. 

As Happycarz suggested, Custom Instrument Panels do really nice work. They made one for me and it fit perfectly. I sent my old panel to them so they can use as a template. 

13 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Have you called Barry at Josam's to see if they would do the repairs? That would be my first call. They changed out the Sheppard Steering box to a TRW for me on my previous Windsor.

I considered Josam because of their reputation but the problem is Josam is nearly 15 miles from where I store my RV and I’m concerned that it won’t make the trip without running out of fluid and damage the power steering system like jacwjames said. I could have it towed but that would cost $600-$700 to take it that far. 
 

I’m looking for someone nearby so I can load the reservoir and make the trip before it runs out. 

Thats exactly what I was trying to say....bypass the original inverter....I took my old one out and replaced it with an outlet. Or you could just put a junction box and tie the circuits together there. My new inverters supply both legs of the 50amp wire coming from the transfer switch to the main breaker in the rig.

Have you considered adding fluid, starting the engine and looking for leaks? At least then we/you would know what kind of leak you are dealing with. 

When my power steering gearbox (mounted directly under where the steering wheel is) sprung a leak, I found that it was not the hoses or a fitting and I bought fittings at ACE hardware and connected the two hoses together, filled the reservoir and drove home from Denver to Memphis.  It is drivable without damaging the pump or throwing a fan/alternator/power steering belt.  It was not easy, especially in tight quarters, but it was my only choice since parts were not available for weeks.

On 6/18/2024 at 9:23 AM, CAT Stephen said:

Scott,

I have discovered that the most important aspect in buying any used coach is chassis support followed by a close second of powertrain reliability.

I have determined through ownership of my current Freightliner Chassis is that Freightliner Chassis is currently the gold standard in support.  I have spent approximately 45 hours on the telephone with their technical support to resolve numerous technical issues that have arisen over the past 5 years. 

Doesn’t say much for the Freightliner chassis… granted a one! In 20 years I’ve spent 0 minutes getting support on my Roadmaster chassis, even when Monaco was in business.

here are some pics from mine

IMG_1180.HEIC IMG_1185.HEIC IMG_1447.heic

Hello @Ivylog,

I have had no issues thus far with my Freightliner XC chassis.  Where I used Freightliner technical support has been to trace down issues with failed 3rd party components which have primarily been 3rd party relay cubes that have failed.  All relays have a limited lifespan resulting in the eventual need to replace on any chassis, regardless of the chassis brand.

Like Scottp, we snowbird in SE Florida…park has a dumb 10 year rule. Dumb as once in, it can be 20+ without getting permission each year to put it on the lot we own. Are you sure there’s not some exceptions to the 12 years and what happens when the “new” one is over 12 years old?

We own a seasonal RV park in N GA with a 10 year rule that’s fairly flexible… send me some pictures of your 14 year old rig. Our problem is most rigs are trailers and we have people that have been with us for 20 years…very little turnover. If there rig was 10 when it came in, a 30 year old trailer has to go.

13 hours ago, Dbircky said:

My 2009 Monaco Camelot has a strange electrical problem.    On the generator everything runs fine.   On shore power, the intellic system shows about 19 amps being used.    However only the fridge is running.   If I switch to propane the amperage doesn't change.   I turn each of the breakers off in an attempt to isolate the problem.    Here's where it gets weird.    The front a/c appears to be the culprit.   When o turn that breaker off the intellic screen goes dark.  Bit the center a/c and!or the fridge continue to operate.   Here's where it gets weirder, when I shut off and turned back on rear switches, the usual clicks and clunks aren't there.  I'm thinking the big boy decided to die???

for the last week when plugged into the 30 amp plug (no 50 amp available here) the 40 amp remote breaker trips but not the 30amp breaker in the post.    

I'm stumped.   Ideas?

From the top. All great and logical responses.

As a 09 Camelot owner, my insight.  First a little bit of “explanation” or education.  If you know this, please don’t take it personally….a large majority of MH owners don’t and power and tripping and such is a common queation.

The MH is a Two Line, 120 VAC 50 Amp critter.  Your 10KW generator is the equivalent…now, the breaker on the generator might be 45…I can’t recall.  BUT the genny is Two line, 120 VAC and close to 50 Amps.  Translated…. You have the potential for up to 100 Amps of power.  With a 30 amp service, you only have ONE line and it is only 30 Amps…and that is only 30% of the needed power to operate like it was intended.  I have used this example as folks don’t relate to POWER.

If you had a swimming pool and needed to top it off and had TWO hoses…each one was a 1” Diameter…a nice big one….then it you will get a lot of water.  BUT, if you only one ONE hose and it is a 5/8” diameter….it will take over THREE times as long to refill the pool.  That is the difference between a full 50 Amp TWO LINE service and a single 30 Amp.  It is NOT the ratio of 50 to 30.  OK…now, back to reality.

You need to read and understand HOW to set up the Inverter…. Here is how you do it…..keep reading and scroll down.

First is the SHORE.  That confuseds folks and half the inverters are not set up right as folks “tinkered and tweaked” without reading Magnum 101 or the mnual.  Harsh comment…but reality.

You have a 30 Amp breaker feeding the Magnum.  Regardless of if you are on 50A or 30 A, the BREAKER in the main panel is the determining factor or value. Push SHORE set it to 30.  Unless you try to run on a 20 A outlet, never change it….  BTW, don’t be surprised if you can’t run on a 20 AMP GFCI receptacle….with say a 100ft drop cord.  IT DON’T work.  The GFCI will trip…no further explanation on how I know this and the “education” Magnum gave me on that fateful day…LOL.

Next up, the comment about charging is probably the reason you see the amperage…now, first….the other comment.  The EMS REQUIRES ALL the breakers on the main panel to be on.  Trust us…strange things happen that would baffle an Electrical Engineer with a PhD.  Turn all ON.

You need to read the above PDF and do this.  First…go through the SHORE & SETUP functions and write down what they are.  Don’t change.  Then go back through and set yours up.  This PDF was written for your OEM remote.  If you have the newer remote…it is covered also.

WHEN you are on 50 Amp, i never keep my inverter set at 100% charging.  It is older.  It gets hotter.  It only has a limited life….like a 70 YO running a daily marathon….premature FAILURE.

I use 80%…if really hot…turn down to 70%.  The inverter is like your phone.  Hot day..100 or 90%…like putting the phone on the dash….it heats up internally.  

NOW, ON 30 AMP….turn it down…I go to 40% or lower.  If you try to run just ONE AC, you are using more than HALF of the 30 Amps….

NOW…IF ALL THAT DOES NOT RECTIFY THE READING….RESET THE EMS. Disconnect the shore. Cover the solar or disconnect the battery terminals on the controller in the last bay on the passenger side….the one next to the propane tank.  Trip off the generator breaker on the genny up front.

Remove the brown cover.  The EMS is the circuit board on the lower right.  Has 3 (memory) wiring connections.  Each different. Pull all 3. There is a 3 amp fuse, sometimes buried behind a wire loom.  Pull that fuse.

Get a large handle screwdriver and a shop towel (mechanic’s blue or red rag). Put two wraps on the handle.  Now tighten EVERY screw or connection in the panel.  This needs to be done every 3 years or so.  

Now…go down to where the inverter is and take off the cover of the ATS.  IF THE ATS IS OEM & SAYS IOTA 50R….YOU GOT A BIG TIME PROBLEM.  That ATS is dangerous and a fire hazard….report back if it is….

NOW do the same, even if an Iota.  Tighten every screw.  Some of the IOTA were #2 square drive.  Push down on back of the handle, usually with your left hand’s palm…to keep the bit or tip engaged in the slot or recess.  Give it all your right hand has got. Yes…that is the way to do it if you don’t have a cakibrated INCH POUND torque wrench…  

OK…your 3 year ELECTRICAL AC pm is complete.  Button everything back up.  Go upstairs…replace fuse…replace connectors and cover.  Uncover or enable solar.  Turn genny breaker on.  I’d actually turn on Genny and let everything boot back up from there.

NOW…as to the 40.  There is most likely a loose connection somewhere between the 30 amp receptacle and the breaker and the line to the 40 amp breaker.

BOTTOM LINE…You may be overloading the 30 amp and the 40 is an older breaker and more crotchety.  Folks tend to overload a 30, as stated earlier thinking they have 60% (30 divided by 50) of full power..

Thats it. Fix and advise…

14 hours ago, tomevansfl said:

I checked and as everyone thought there was no puddles on the gravel around the tire area. Honestly, by that point I don’t think there was any fluid left to leak. 
 

When I called the tire shop the owner said they didn’t do any repairs other than tires but to let him know what I found out. He seemed open to paying for the repairs if it was their fault.
 

It’s too far to take it back to them to check it out with no power steering and I don’t think refilling the power steering system would last that far. I’m on a quest now to find a repair shop on the west side of Orlando that will work on a motor home. I called one dealership and they said they didn’t work on Monaco’s if I didn’t buy it from them…even though they are a Holiday Rambler dealer. Go figure. 
 

There is only one other dealer in my area that does repairs. I’ll call them tomorrow to see if they can/will fix it. 
 

I may have to see if the Prevost repair center near me will work on it. They work on other buses and of course Prevost including Prevost conversions but I don’t know if they do motor homes. They work on semi’s but these days nobody wants to go out of their ordinary to serve their non-customers. 

Did you pull the top off the reservoir and actually see “is it empty”…if not, then you might as well pop for the TOW or Haul on a lowboy.  It is VERY difficult for member to offer advice when certain things are not known.  

If the reservoir has fluid…..then the leak is not catastrophic.  If it is dry….refill it…start it and observe the leak. You will be able to judge the leak when running….

No one can tell you exactly what to do without knowing the above….and that was outlined, in detail, many posts ago.  If that is not in your skill set, then a mobile or a tow/haul is the best course….

1 hour ago, tomevansfl said:

I considered Josam because of their reputation but the problem is Josam is nearly 15 miles from where I store my RV and I’m concerned that it won’t make the trip without running out of fluid and damage the power steering system like jacwjames said. I could have it towed but that would cost $600-$700 to take it that far.

Unfortunately, hindsight is usually much costlier than foresight.

There has been multiple posts on this forum about Emergency Roadside Service and the cost benefit for having one. I paid between $400 and $500 for three years of ERS from Coach-Net. They would have towed your RV to most likely Josam's since they are only 15 miles away or some other shop where the repairs could be done. Tow - No Charge!

I have had Coach-Net since 2010 and won't leave home without it.

Sometimes the lessons we learn from our mistakes are expensive. I have done my share of them.

1 hour ago, Jim Stringer said:

Thats exactly what I was trying to say....bypass the original inverter....I took my old one out and replaced it with an outlet. Or you could just put a junction box and tie the circuits together there. My new inverters supply both legs of the 50amp wire coming from the transfer switch to the main breaker in the rig.

This is the way to go!

I was thinking to follow the original wire.

I guess you have think outside the box.

I'm wondering of it might be worth considering two or more systems.  I have not observed one super system that would do all you ask, but I would definitely be interested myself if there was such. 

I think a 360 system would be limited to be good for 360, but not effective for features you are looking for.  The highest maturity seems to be in dash an/or backup views.  Personally, I like the concept of rear-view mirror displays like WOLFBOX G840S, but we don't have an existing mirror to attach it to.  However, that could be solved with a custom mount on the dash.

I have seen implementations of side-view products.  Some are "custom", but can be implemented with features such as recording and security. See the following: Lost power steering fluid. HELP. 2001 Diplomat
tomevansfl 19 hours ago