10 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Well, hopefully you are traveling shore power to shore power.

Thanks!  No other choice.

11 hours ago, Chuck-Kathy_Orlando said:

We do have to take it to a place in Tampa as they have to have the driver's window replaced since it's fogged up and by state law, they have to have it replaced as it's a safety issue.

I've read there are people / places that will "defog" a window by disassembling it, cleaning, resealing and reassembling the window.  The cleaning is more that just a Windex approach.  You can do it yourself if you're handy.  Me, I'm too chicken. 

The Sun plays havoc on a fogged window.  If I don't have a clear view I'll open the window in a heartbeat.

- bob

19 hours ago, vito.a said:

Try this web site: Is my Engine Brake working?
Keith H. 20 hours ago

On 6/21/2024 at 12:47 AM, Frank McElroy said:

On my coach if the engine Jake brake is switched ON HIGH, as I pull onto a highway exit ramp, by the time I reach the end to turn, I'll be below 25 MPH.  Yes, if the engine brake is working you will absolutely know it - it's like full service brake pressure.  But with my DPF engine , there is no straight pipe engine brake sound.  You feel the full engine braking but no noise.

It works! it Works! It works!  I have an engine brake!

Magnum Inverter/charger gremlin/issue
Tom Cherry 20 hours ago

11 minutes ago, Bobbyboy said:

Thanks:  unfortunately, Stepper, which is only about 5 miles from me, closed their doors last year.  The Houston or TN service centers are almost equidistant so if necessary I will try them.

Correct, but then you would have the issue of charging them.  I am going to try to solve my problem this weekend or shell out the $$$ for a new one.  Thanks,

Bottom line....YES, we need to focus on getting your issue resolved....

Second.  Based on what I know and have read and has been reported.  If the Board's ATS is toast... Just found this.

@Frank McElroy Don't think we have this in the files....might be a good addition. So, as step by step, should you need it on getting the board out....WELLL GUESSSS WHATTTT?

OK....my curiosity is well known....  Here is something that might be of real value....  I had NOT seen this done before nor remember reading about it.

I am not the expert of desoldering...but have replaced many components and rebuilt power supply boards on LED TV's.  I would be worth giving this a try.  I have a nice Weller soldering station.  You don't need the really nice vacuum desoldering iron....you purchase the dewicking mesh and that will "suck up" the excess solder and leave the board ready for popping in the new relays.

I worked for the Cooper Hand Tools division and was their "on site" consultant for a variety of areas. I spent a LOT of time in the USA Weller plant and built the replacement facility in Mexico.  I know a LOT about the Weller line and had many devices for evaluation.

Weller Digital Soldering Station - WE1010NA

If you put the above in Amazon, the price amazed me...they used to be over $200 or so.  You might be able to use a 15 Watt iron and you just "file or rework" the tip to fit your needs.  I believe this is doable.  And the cost would be well worth it.

Just passing this on as it was new to me and I don't think it has been posted here before.

Good Luck.

64-1003, Control Board Removal and Replacement _8.5X11_ _7-06_ (2).pdf

Magnum Inverter/charger gremlin/issue
MIRIAM 20 hours ago

So glad to have found this recent thread.  While sitting and 'doing nothing' the cabin lights flickered and I was confused because the washer and AC are still going.  The fan and lights went out for a few seconds, but came back on and washer never missed a beat (same with AC)

 

im on 30amp now - and frequently use the same things, so it's not a draw issue.  What I THINK I just learned, my lights are actually running off batteries and I didn't even know it.  I checked my Magnum remote and I see it's showing absorb charging where it generally shows float.  Is it that the fans and other outlets throughout the night (and really possibly for the last day or so) have used the batteries with the overcast (over in Amelia Island and weather is yucky today and part of water day) with not getting enough actual sun to the roofsolar panel to charge them back at the rate they're being used.  My batteries are new (all 6) about 2 months ago, so I know they're good and just want to make sure there isn't a newbie miss I'm not realizing I should do, like turn the inverter ON.  I do have the charger on, so am I right in understanding this is (now) charging batteries from the 30amp?  I've never really used the inverter always plugged up to power, BUT, I am somewhat familiar having read the manual and watched a couple videos when we got the coach to just better understand my equipment.

thanks, in advance!

Case or holder for grease gun
Tom Whitlow 20 hours ago

I use this grease gun.  It doesn't leak or drip.

Magnum Inverter/charger gremlin/issue
Tom Cherry 19 hours ago

7 minutes ago, MIRIAM said:

So glad to have found this recent thread.  While sitting and 'doing nothing' the cabin lights flickered and I was confused because the washer and AC are still going.  The fan and lights went out for a few seconds, but came back on and washer never missed a beat (same with AC)

 

im on 30amp now - and frequently use the same things, so it's not a draw issue.  What I THINK I just learned, my lights are actually running off batteries and I didn't even know it.  I checked my Magnum remote and I see it's showing absorb charging where it generally shows float.  Is it that the fans and other outlets throughout the night (and really possibly for the last day or so) have used the batteries with the overcast (over in Amelia Island and weather is yucky today and part of water day) with not getting enough actual sun to the roofsolar panel to charge them back at the rate they're being used.  My batteries are new (all 6) about 2 months ago, so I know they're good and just want to make sure there isn't a newbie miss I'm not realizing I should do, like turn the inverter ON.  I do have the charger on, so am I right in understanding this is (now) charging batteries from the 30amp?  I've never really used the inverter always plugged up to power, BUT, I am somewhat familiar having read the manual and watched a couple videos when we got the coach to just better understand my equipment.

thanks, in advance!

OK... sort of to summarize....  

First, all your overhead lights are DC as well as the fans and pump.  NOW....there is also a LOT of other DC powered devices...such as the power to the HVAC control modules...without DC...AIN'T gonna work.

Now the OTHER thing you might not KNOW.  All your internal outlets are "fed through" the Inverter.  You know that the ATS switches power from Shore to Genny and feeds the main panel. There is a 30 Amp breaker in the main panel. that provides AC power to the Inverter. If there is 120 VAC being FED or supplied to the Inverter, from the 30 amp in the Main Panel, then IF you have a DECENT (not great, but can be charged) House Batteries, then there is an INTERNAL ATS in the Inverter. That then feeds, directly, the incoming 30 Amp power to the internal outlets.  They work off the GFCI and the other circuit is the Microwave. 

SO, flickering LIGHTS are NOT an INVERTER issue....and the FLICKERING is NOT a sign of BAD Batteries.

There is a Salesman or Battery Cut Off switch (read the manual).  That is a FIASCO.  Most of us have ABANDONED that switch. It works like this.  Push the Spring Loaded Switch UP (it pops back), that LATCHES in a Solenoid in the Rear or maybe Front Run Bay.  That LOCATION and hopefully a Diagram or picture is in your MANUAL.  The two wiring sections ( 8 & 9 ) explain it.  Probably SECTION 8...but read 9 for your continuing electrical education.

NOW when you push the button DOWN, that DISENGAGES or disables all DC power.  Those Solenoids are the ISSUE.  They fail.  People use them as crutches and don't turn off power.  They will shut you down in a HEART BEAT.

The FIX...either remove ONE cable (the LARGE ONES) from one side and put it on the other.  THAT will work and usually there is ENOUGH slack.  BUT, if the cables are TIGHT...then you go to NAPA and get a 781144 Jumper. Attach it to both studs....the switch will click the solenoid...but the circuit is 100% jumpered.  

THAT IS THE USUAL... OMG...LIGHTS FLICKERED...

NOW>>>> There is a VERY IMFORMATIVE and, for YOU, Timely discussion on the pitfalls of 30A service.  You will learn ABOUT the Magnum and there is a file there on how to set it up and also learn about batteries.  THIS IS A MUST READ....

It also cautions you about pulling high loads and the funky things that can happen if you don't set up your inverter...  BIG TIME HEADACHES...

good luck

Hydraulic leak, bedroom slideout, 05 Dynasty Countess
granvillebarker 19 hours ago

I think this has gone sideways, if you look at the picture I posted, the hydraulic cylinder is down below the black arm coming up towards the countertop.   I can see the hydraulic lines where they connect to the cylinder, I can see the cylinder,  but have no way of getting to them to disconnect them or reconnect them to the cylinder.    There is no way to physically access that area that I can find.

This could be as simple as a loose hose fitting, but I can't get to the fittings to check them.

Perhaps we should discuss how I would remove the entire slide box.   Can someone explain how bedroom slides are removed?   I really don't want to go that route with the water lines and drain lines for the sink and washer dryer in that slide out, but that may be the only way to get access to the hydraulic cylinder.  

--

Granville Barker 

05' Dynasty Countess III

Firestone Intelliride Parts
FrankG 18 hours ago

Looking for parts for the Firestone Intelliride system It's for a 2005 Holiday ramble 2005
Imperial Mainly a ECU ? Anyone have one Thanks

Rzv Salvage Websites-beware of photos
tmw188 18 hours ago

Good to pass along. I guess verify don’t just jump in the car and start driving there. 

Magnum Inverter/charger gremlin/issue
MIRIAM 18 hours ago

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

OK... sort of to summarize....  

First, all your overhead lights are DC as well as the fans and pump.  NOW....there is also a LOT of other DC powered devices...such as the power to the HVAC control modules...without DC...AIN'T gonna work.

Now the OTHER thing you might not KNOW.  All your internal outlets are "fed through" the Inverter.  You know that the ATS switches power from Shore to Genny and feeds the main panel. There is a 30 Amp breaker in the main panel. that provides AC power to the Inverter. If there is 120 VAC being FED or supplied to the Inverter, from the 30 amp in the Main Panel, then IF you have a DECENT (not great, but can be charged) House Batteries, then there is an INTERNAL ATS in the Inverter. That then feeds, directly, the incoming 30 Amp power to the internal outlets.  They work off the GFCI and the other circuit is the Microwave. 

SO, flickering LIGHTS are NOT an INVERTER issue....and the FLICKERING is NOT a sign of BAD Batteries.

There is a Salesman or Battery Cut Off switch (read the manual).  That is a FIASCO.  Most of us have ABANDONED that switch. It works like this.  Push the Spring Loaded Switch UP (it pops back), that LATCHES in a Solenoid in the Rear or maybe Front Run Bay.  That LOCATION and hopefully a Diagram or picture is in your MANUAL.  The two wiring sections ( 8 & 9 ) explain it.  Probably SECTION 8...but read 9 for your continuing electrical education.

NOW when you push the button DOWN, that DISENGAGES or disables all DC power.  Those Solenoids are the ISSUE.  They fail.  People use them as crutches and don't turn off power.  They will shut you down in a HEART BEAT.

The FIX...either remove ONE cable (the LARGE ONES) from one side and put it on the other.  THAT will work and usually there is ENOUGH slack.  BUT, if the cables are TIGHT...then you go to NAPA and get a 781144 Jumper. Attach it to both studs....the switch will click the solenoid...but the circuit is 100% jumpered.  

THAT IS THE USUAL... OMG...LIGHTS FLICKERED...

NOW>>>> There is a VERY IMFORMATIVE and, for YOU, Timely discussion on the pitfalls of 30A service.  You will learn ABOUT the Magnum and there is a file there on how to set it up and also learn about batteries.  THIS IS A MUST READ....

It also cautions you about pulling high loads and the funky things that can happen if you don't set up your inverter...  BIG TIME HEADACHES...

good luck

Thanks, Tom - you're always helpful.  I actually did learn about the 30amp & inverter for outlets, but totally by accident a couple/few months ago, so that was my first check when it happened this time.  I checked my 30amp breaker SNF straight to my inverter remote.  I've never used that salesman switch intentionally because I learned my lesson with that early on. (Playing with switches learning in the beginning)  it's a switch right inside the door labeled coach power or something.  We don't use that and don't plan to. (Read about it and most everyone shares your viewpoint) 

we just left for the day and batteries have charged back up with remote back to 'float'

It's the first time it happened and the lights just flickered a second, but I always like to learn - never assume anything is 'nothing' so I always come to 'my peeps' and start reading what you all have shared from experience.  I learn so much constantly reading these threads (whether it's anything I'm experiencing or not) and really appreciate the support when I have a question.  I'm going to read what you shared and leave this for now and just triple check my settings in my inverter remote for the ATS piece.  I remember seeing that when I went through all settings (literally one-by-one) a couple months ago with manual explaining what does what.  I may have missed something, but I'm pretty sure it did exactly what it was supposed to and kicked in to charge my batteries.  (They charged and back to 'float' status)

PS, while on inverter settings, I've always been so curious about the auto start feature for genny and it just never kicked on yet. (No reason for it to, but so wanting it to HA!)  
 

I just want to learn EVERYTHING--slow and steady....this forum is invaluable resource.....

 

happy Saturday from the gloomy Amelia Island area today!

 

Hydraulic leak, bedroom slideout, 05 Dynasty Countess
Tom Cherry 17 hours ago

1 hour ago, granvillebarker said:

I think this has gone sideways, if you look at the picture I posted, the hydraulic cylinder is down below the black arm coming up towards the countertop.   I can see the hydraulic lines where they connect to the cylinder, I can see the cylinder,  but have no way of getting to them to disconnect them or reconnect them to the cylinder.    There is no way to physically access that area that I can find.

This could be as simple as a loose hose fitting, but I can't get to the fittings to check them.

Perhaps we should discuss how I would remove the entire slide box.   Can someone explain how bedroom slides are removed?   I really don't want to go that route with the water lines and drain lines for the sink and washer dryer in that slide out, but that may be the only way to get access to the hydraulic cylinder.  

--

Granville Barker 

05' Dynasty Countess III

Without being an antagonist, the procedure of a slide removal is simple.  Disconnect all mechanical devices, such as the slide cylinders” and then all the umbilical items such as 120 VAC, 12 VDC, Water, Sewer, Speaker (if equipped), Coaxial (if equipped) and Intellitec (if equipped) data buss.

Then, use 3 or 4 “T Jacks and raise the slide (extended of course) up about 1/2”.  Then have a crew of several men converge.  There needs to be a large, raised Dolly adjacent to the outer wall.  Then the crew lifts it off and puts it on the adjoining “flat, large” top of the Dolly.  Typically 4 or more depending on the weight.  Lighter slides can be carried to a fixed raised support frame and then sat down there.

However, the fundamental question remains.  Where are the cylinders and are the slide cylinders part of the slide or are they mounted on the body.  That varies.  There is always a “third cylinder” for each slide….in use to equalize or synchronize the extension or retraction.  

Slide removal is usually the LAST option for any type of repair….the disconnection may (will) also require some major cabinetry removal as the trims or flanges of the cabinets often are wider than the slides….and were installed AFTER the slide was fitted and “fastened” in place.

The above comes from experience as my simple “TV side/cabinet” slide had a problem with the “cable” and one of the 8 cables was frayed and would have snapped.  Yes….yours is hydraulic. But the same approach is used.  The side trims and the overhead and the “crown molding” had to be removed.  Fortunately, then after 4 hours of pulling off the cabinets and countertops, removal was not necessary.  I was there and watched….with high anxiety. Yes..SOME CW do have good folks.

The interior wood work removal  was a 4 hour job by an expert with 30 years experience and had been “checked out” by some local references, including the ex GM of a HR dealership that had tried on several occasions to hire him. The tech had a fulltime helper.

I also knew another tech at the HR dealership that was a friend.  They swapped techniques and “how to” info.  I had a bad hose on a gasser Winnebago many years ago…..and the HR tech spent time on the phone with the CW guy and Winnie dealer tech support.  He was told how to unhook and what to remove and where to access the hose and fished it out.  They then had a new hose made up and used the “heavy wire” fish they pulled in place during removal to get it back into the “innards” of places that were inaccessible.  That was an 8 hour job…Sr. tech and helper….each spent a day.

Someone that has had a hose removed or had the hose leak diagnosed might chime in.  You may need a flex phone or tablet camera to fish and maneuver inside to start to determine where the leak is.

Good luck….that’s the extent of my two “major slide” issues…

 

 

Magnum Inverter/charger gremlin/issue
Tom Cherry 17 hours ago

8 minutes ago, MIRIAM said:

Thanks, Tom - you're always helpful.  I actually did learn about the 30amp & inverter for outlets, but totally by accident a couple/few months ago, so that was my first check when it happened this time.  I checked my 30amp breaker SNF straight to my inverter remote.  I've never used that salesman switch intentionally because I learned my lesson with that early on. (Playing with switches learning in the beginning)  it's a switch right inside the door labeled coach power or something.  We don't use that and don't plan to. (Read about it and most everyone shares your viewpoint) 

we just left for the day and batteries have charged back up with remote back to 'float'

It's the first time it happened and the lights just flickered a second, but I always like to learn - never assume anything is 'nothing' so I always come to 'my peeps' and start reading what you all have shared from experience.  I learn so much constantly reading these threads (whether it's anything I'm experiencing or not) and really appreciate the support when I have a question.  I'm going to read what you shared and leave this for now and just triple check my settings in my inverter remote for the ATS piece.  I remember seeing that when I went through all settings (literally one-by-one) a couple months ago with manual explaining what does what.  I may have missed something, but I'm pretty sure it did exactly what it was supposed to and kicked in to charge my batteries.  (They charged and back to 'float' status)

PS, while on inverter settings, I've always been so curious about the auto start feature for genny and it just never kicked on yet. (No reason for it to, but so wanting it to HA!)  
 

I just want to learn EVERYTHING--slow and steady....this forum is invaluable resource.....

 

happy Saturday from the gloomy Amelia Island area today!

 

Whilst OUT…buy the NAPA jumper.  I think the solenoid is failing….and it will get worse. Having the $10 part and  knowing how to fix is invaluable. There is programming instructions and use of the AutoStart.  Bare in mind…you have the older and now obsolete 5 knob AGS and it was prone to failure….but it either works…or you get a new one.  I recall a topic where someone was gonna fix it… but no feedback, at least that I recall, on parts availability and/or success….

Flickering is only going to get worse.  Also NOT good for your AC’s nor W/D.  This is like a power company spike and you get surges and the PCB in each are NOT happy….

Way more to eliminate with a 15 minute and $10 fix a problem than can cost you big time.

The solenoids fail due to USE as in the contacts will arc and pit. $10 to bypass a way more expensive but srupid idea solenoid is a good deal.

Maybe the weather will change. Know exactly where you are…been there a few times….

Magnum Inverter/charger gremlin/issue
96 EVO 17 hours ago

On 6/19/2024 at 1:56 PM, Bobbyboy said:

Frank:  I did a hard reset to no avail;  the circuit breaker on the Magnum did not trip.  The inverter is mounted (upside down) on the roof of the first bay after the fuel tank and there has been no moisture in that bay.  I just don't know since it worked perfect after a few dry days then stopped after the rainstorm we had down here yesterday.  I am not that familiar with the internal workings of the inverter but I assume there is an internal transfer switch that switche to battery inut when there is no ac input.  However I had ac input to the inverter but it would not allow the ac  to "pass through" to the subpanel.  When  I bypassed the inverter completely no problem everything on the subpanel worked.  Of course I no longer have the charger function thus the external trickle chargers.  I guess there is a failure of an internal compotent.  A new one costs $2,000.00 so I guess I am going to have to suck it up and make the purchase.

Thanks,  Bob L

Any chance rodents nested on there? 

They like the heat coming off the inverter!

Magnum Inverter/charger gremlin/issue
scottknight 17 hours ago

If you are going to consider replacement you may be able to upsize. My wife is not as outdoorsy as i am she likes to build quilts even on dry camp trips. The Knight is much simpler electrically then the larger coaches. She runs sewing machines, fans , ect at the same time and i beg her to wait to use the genny when she irons (ouch).

Protection coordination with the existing system is close ....... but have not developed any know problems. I replaced the 2000 with the 2500 which meant some additional parts. External protection instead of the the inverter mounted trip buttons. Added 4\0 to the batteries and xtra plugs at the inverter for me to enjoy. The solar contrabution along with the batteries allows longer day use. I am noy an expert, but my trade was electrical lineman\ substation electrician dispatcher ... i can study prints and understand some things.

 

Anyone Have a Windshiled Replaced Lately?
Rheine 17 hours ago

08 Dip here in Kansas City. Windshield popped in upper passenger corner.  Have not found mobile service yet. Did speak with Alpha Glass in Lathrope, MO. Six week wait at least. Resetting a one piece is risky especially if there are rock chips. But none on mine. The coach was purchased from a dealer with know windshield install problems. I can drive to a shop anywhere.  I am worried about driving in this condition. Did anyone tape or secure the glass in the mean time. 

R,

Anyone Have a Windshiled Replaced Lately?
Craggar 16 hours ago

10 minutes ago, Rheine said:

08 Dip here in Kansas City. Windshield popped in upper passenger corner.  Have not found mobile service yet. Did speak with Alpha Glass in Lathrope, MO. Six week wait at least. Resetting a one piece is risky especially if there are rock chips. But none on mine. The coach was purchased from a dealer with know windshield install problems. I can drive to a shop anywhere.  I am worried about driving in this condition. Did anyone tape or secure the glass in the mean time. 

R,

Not a one piece but I had 99 Rexall gas job when we were into quadding and one spot was a little rough on the rv and popped the windshield out on the pass side upper corner. There was a 2 inch gap almost and I used duct tape to hold it in place to get it home. We drove it about 60 miles that way and never had any issues. Took it back to the glass shop that had just replaced the other side a couple weeks before that and had them reset it. 

Magnum Inverter/charger gremlin/issue
Bobbyboy 16 hours ago

3 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Bottom line....YES, we need to focus on getting your issue resolved....

Second.  Based on what I know and have read and has been reported.  If the Board's ATS is toast... Just found this.

@Frank McElroy Don't think we have this in the files....might be a good addition. So, as step by step, should you need it on getting the board out....WELLL GUESSSS WHATTTT?

OK....my curiosity is well known....  Here is something that might be of real value....  I had NOT seen this done before nor remember reading about it.

I am not the expert of desoldering...but have replaced many components and rebuilt power supply boards on LED TV's.  I would be worth giving this a try.  I have a nice Weller soldering station.  You don't need the really nice vacuum desoldering iron....you purchase the dewicking mesh and that will "suck up" the excess solder and leave the board ready for popping in the new relays.

I worked for the Cooper Hand Tools division and was their "on site" consultant for a variety of areas. I spent a LOT of time in the USA Weller plant and built the replacement facility in Mexico.  I know a LOT about the Weller line and had many devices for evaluation.

Weller Digital Soldering Station - WE1010NA

If you put the above in Amazon, the price amazed me...they used to be over $200 or so.  You might be able to use a 15 Watt iron and you just "file or rework" the tip to fit your needs.  I believe this is doable.  And the cost would be well worth it.

Just passing this on as it was new to me and I don't think it has been posted here before.

Good Luck.

64-1003, Control Board Removal and Replacement _8.5X11_ _7-06_ (2).pdf 1.23 MB · 4 downloads

Tom:  If I determine a faulty relay I may take you up on your offer;  have nothing to lose.  Will keep you posted once I get into it.

 

BobL

Bay door won’t open
Dan B. 16 hours ago

I have the same problem on my '03 Windsor, but can't crawl through as it covers the fresh water tank. Can you describe what the problem was? Was it a broken or jammed gas strut hinge?

Thanks,

Dan

Magnum Inverter/charger gremlin/issue
Frank McElroy 16 hours ago

4 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Bottom line....YES, we need to focus on getting your issue resolved....

Second.  Based on what I know and have read and has been reported.  If the Board's ATS is toast... Just found this.

@Frank McElroy Don't think we have this in the files....might be a good addition. So, as step by step, should you need it on getting the board out....WELLL GUESSSS WHATTTT?

OK....my curiosity is well known....  Here is something that might be of real value....  I had NOT seen this done before nor remember reading about it.

I am not the expert of desoldering...but have replaced many components and rebuilt power supply boards on LED TV's.  I would be worth giving this a try.  I have a nice Weller soldering station.  You don't need the really nice vacuum desoldering iron....you purchase the dewicking mesh and that will "suck up" the excess solder and leave the board ready for popping in the new relays.

I worked for the Cooper Hand Tools division and was their "on site" consultant for a variety of areas. I spent a LOT of time in the USA Weller plant and built the replacement facility in Mexico.  I know a LOT about the Weller line and had many devices for evaluation.

Weller Digital Soldering Station - WE1010NA

If you put the above in Amazon, the price amazed me...they used to be over $200 or so.  You might be able to use a 15 Watt iron and you just "file or rework" the tip to fit your needs.  I believe this is doable.  And the cost would be well worth it.

Just passing this on as it was new to me and I don't think it has been posted here before.

Good Luck.

64-1003, Control Board Removal and Replacement _8.5X11_ _7-06_ (2).pdf 1.23 MB · 5 downloads

If you think you could fix a fault code on a Magnum inverter with a Weller soldering iron, I'd first suggest spending 90 minutes and watch this video.  Unless you are very experienced with electronics and have the proper equipment, I think you'll change your mind.

FWIW, this is my workbench for circuit board troubleshooting and repair.  The hot air desoldering/soldering station on the far left would have removed those multi pin relays in under 2 minutes each.

Magnum Inverter/charger gremlin/issue
Tom Cherry 16 hours ago

4 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

If you think you could fix a fault code on a Magnum inverter with a WELLER  soldering station or iron, I'd first suggest spending 90 minutes and watch this video.  Unless you are very experienced with electronics and have the proper equipment, I think you'll change your mind.

FWIW, this is my workbench for circuit board troubleshooting and repair.  The hot air desoldering/soldering station on the far left would have removed those multi pin relays in under 2 minutes each.

Hey….I know you really don’t need all that stuff.  I thought after watching the video that I could….but, you‘re the Guru…. LOL.

How would you suggest that the OP replace the two ATS relays or did the CC guy sort of exaggerate?

Thanks….does this mean the YT video doesn’t meet the File’s or the Video sections standards….

 

4 hours ago, Bobbyboy said:

Tom:  If I determine a faulty relay I may take you up on your offer;  have nothing to lose.  Will keep you posted once I get into it.

 

BobL

You know….  I’ll try. Maybe Paul and Frank will be “hooked” and set up a protype like they do for Intellitec?

Seriously, let me know….what you find out….

Hydraulic leak, bedroom slideout, 05 Dynasty Countess
Frank McElroy 15 hours ago

3 hours ago, granvillebarker said:

I think this has gone sideways, if you look at the picture I posted, the hydraulic cylinder is down below the black arm coming up towards the countertop.   I can see the hydraulic lines where they connect to the cylinder, I can see the cylinder,  but have no way of getting to them to disconnect them or reconnect them to the cylinder.    There is no way to physically access that area that I can find.

This could be as simple as a loose hose fitting, but I can't get to the fittings to check them.

Perhaps we should discuss how I would remove the entire slide box.   Can someone explain how bedroom slides are removed?   I really don't want to go that route with the water lines and drain lines for the sink and washer dryer in that slide out, but that may be the only way to get access to the hydraulic cylinder.  

--

Granville Barker 

05' Dynasty Countess III

I know it's tight but with the front facia removed and the sliding door closed there should be just enough room working with one hand to access the cylinder connections.  The slide might need to be moved in the best position and or the lower cabinet removed to gain the easiest access.  Experience has shown, that in most cases, it's not a loose connection but a failed hydraulic line at the connector where the inner liner is internally leaking thought the outer liner.

Bay Door Handle
MJ.STIGER 15 hours ago

Ordered this handle. And the hinged part that opens the mechanism is on the wrong side. Still having a tough time finding an original model. This replacement part number does not work.

Magnum Inverter/charger gremlin/issue
Frank McElroy 15 hours ago

In practice vacuum air desoldering stations like the one he was using rarely work.  He actually had to grind off the metal relay posts so his vacuum desoldering station could make a full vacuum connection to desolder the pins.  Solder wicking would stand a chance.  Notice that he eventually went with a really hot soldering iron.  The best option for someone trying to make this sort of repair would be better off bringing the board to a computer repair shop with a hot air soldering station.

Bay door won’t open
jacwjames 15 hours ago

I've had a problem with the wet bay door not opening.  In my case the mechanism needed lubricating, the auto door lock solenoid wasn't strong enough to release the latch.

Finally resorted to drilling a holed from the bottom to release the latch.   You cal look at another door, if you have a door the same size measure from one side to the latch then use that measurement to drill a hole.  I then used a screw driver to push the latch up until it clears the striker plate to release the door. 

I now try and lube all the latches on an annual basis.

 

Magnum Inverter/charger gremlin/issue
MIRIAM 15 hours ago

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

Whilst OUT…buy the NAPA jumper.  I think the solenoid is failing….and it will get worse. Having the $10 part and  knowing how to fix is invaluable. There is programming instructions and use of the AutoStart.  Bare in mind…you have the older and now obsolete 5 knob AGS and it was prone to failure….but it either works…or you get a new one.  I recall a topic where someone was gonna fix it… but no feedback, at least that I recall, on parts availability and/or success….

Flickering is only going to get worse.  Also NOT good for your AC’s nor W/D.  This is like a power company spike and you get surges and the PCB in each are NOT happy….

Way more to eliminate with a 15 minute and $10 fix a problem than can cost you big time.

The solenoids fail due to USE as in the contacts will arc and pit. $10 to bypass a way more expensive but srupid idea solenoid is a good deal.

Maybe the weather will change. Know exactly where you are…been there a few times….

I think I found the part you recommend.  Is this it?  I agree, I'd rather have it and not need it than the other way around.  I don't need that switch and never use it anyway, so getting rid of a potential problem sounds like a win for me.....

 

Rzv Salvage Websites-beware of photos
jacwjames 15 hours ago

I've bought several things from Visione RV in KY over the years.  For me they've been good at replying to email inquiries and had what I needed. 

It has changed since Covid, in the past you could drive right in and "look" around, they have a huge warehouse full of "Stuff", and we just meandered around. 

Last Nov I inquired about a oil cooler via email, they had it in stock and I had to make an appointment to go get it.  The gate was closed and there was a person who confirmed I had an appointment, called the office and got approval to let me in.   Went to the office and they contacted the person I made the appointment with, he had the cooler and I paid for it. 

Two trucks were delivering a couple salvaged RV's and they had 4-5 nice looking coaches parked out front that were for sale.  I looked at a nice looking Foretravel, U320, from the outside it looked pristine, walked in the the front kitchen area was burned due to a fridge fire.  

 

Bay door won’t open
Dan B. 15 hours ago

The latch is free and seems to work. I think it is the aft hydraulic gas hinge. Pulling on the door will begin to "bend" it at near that point of where I think the hinge attaches. This occurred after "banging" 1500 miles of our interstate highway. Maybe another 1500 miles will free it - ha. Thanks for your thoughts.

Dan B.

Bay door won’t open
jacwjames 15 hours ago

The latch portion may have disconnected from the handle and or the lever may have bent.  Last year I had a door that would not open.  After I used the screw driver trick I took a closer look at the lever that pulls the latch up, it was bent enough that the latch didn't clear the striker plate.  Used a crescent wrench to bend the lever. 

Below is a picture of the back side of the latch, I inserted an arrow showing the lever that I had to bend up. 

New (To Us) 2016 Diplomat 43DF
Martinvz 14 hours ago

There are businesses in FL that does this on site. Better to get it done sooner than later as the glass can become etched if it is not cleaned. New glass is very expensive and is a custom order. The dealer you are buying from should be able to assist.

Anyone Have a Windshiled Replaced Lately?
Hancoman 14 hours ago

Drove 800 miles after windshield popped out on bottom right and left. Glass shop in Missoula MT said he would try and reset,but stated no guarantee it would not break then I would be stuck in Missoula have to find storage until they could get a new windshield. Duct taped it to stop the wind noise and drove it home to Wesrern Washington. No problems

Bay door won’t open
cbr046 14 hours ago

I have to "thump" the bottom of the door with my fist while pulling on the latch.  I could adjust it out . . . . . but it's also sort of a secret "lock"

If the frame is twisted from leveling it can also affect door tightness. 

- bob

New (To Us) 2016 Diplomat 43DF
Chuck-Kathy_Orlando 14 hours ago

24 minutes ago, Martinvz said:

There are businesses in FL that does this on site. Better to get it done sooner than later as the glass can become etched if it is not cleaned. New glass is very expensive and is a custom order. The dealer you are buying from should be able to assist.

Actually, the dealer will be paying for it to be fixed, but we'll be taking to have the work done.  We agreed to that stipulation.  There are a couple of other windows that we may have fixed that are also fogged up, but since they weren't a safety issue, that will be on our nickel.

 

24 minutes ago, Martinvz said:

There are businesses in FL that does this on site. Better to get it done sooner than later as the glass can become etched if it is not cleaned. New glass is very expensive and is a custom order. The dealer you are buying from should be able to assist.

Bedroom TV Cabinet
Neil Loveless 13 hours ago

I need access to the back TV in my 2005 Beaver Patriot, it appears that the cabinet is made to open the face with the TV mounted on it by swinging to the right, I can't see any other access, but I can't see any release or means of opening, any suggestions would be appreciated, thanks!  

Is this a REAL Big Boy? Help with ID and Troubleshooting. Thanks.
gjh2916 13 hours ago

On the high current plate their is a Battery Boost Solenoid I am pointing to it, and per attached drawing. Is this what everyone refers to a Big Boy solenoid? I'm having trouble keeping my chassis battery charged when plugged into shore power. I just replaced chassis battery and when plugged into shore power the chassis side of battery boost solenoid reads 12.78 volts, and the house side of solenoid reads 14.5 volts.

Bay Door Handle
timaz996 13 hours ago

That sucks when that happens.

Is this a REAL Big Boy? Help with ID and Troubleshooting. Thanks.
Doug and Nicki 13 hours ago

See the following comments.  These guys obviously know their stuff.

Cracked Front Rotor. 2004 HR Imperial. Help ! Need assistance
mattoman 13 hours ago

Hi Folks,

I have purchased a HR Imperial (2004) and I have found a cracked, drivers side front rotor.

I have talked to Dana, Bendix and other source's and have hit a brick wall.

The original Bendix part number is 976003.

I am being told by suppliers that this part is obsolete now and it is not available for purchase. I was also told that this rotor was also used in some Mack and International trucks. Someone said that part number 976030 was a replacement of 976003 ? What I need help with is finding any cross-reference numbers to manufactures that may make the same rotor. Additionally, are there any parts recyclers that sell quality used parts for motorhomes ? Please help. I am starting to get scared that If I cannot find the rotor, I am up the creek without a paddle.
Any thoughts or ideas would be greatly appreciated. God Bless 

THANK YOU, HAVE A GREAT DAY

Anyone Have a Windshiled Replaced Lately?
Rheine 12 hours ago

Thanks.  I ordered up a couple gasket tools and invited my workers over for Sunday.  Had a glass vacuum handle laying around.  We shall see.

Cracked Front Rotor. 2004 HR Imperial. Help ! Need assistance
jacwjames 12 hours ago

In the Download section there is a parts listing that included brake parts. 

https://www.monacoers.org/files/category/16-parts-list/

Is this a REAL Big Boy? Help with ID and Troubleshooting. Thanks.
Tom Cherry 12 hours ago

Actually NO.  The ORIGINAL Battery Boost Solenoid was called something different…even Isolator.  Whatever is on your prints.

Later on when Monaco started using the INTELLITEC brand, they were called BIG BOYS….as that was the product name.

You do NOT have an Intellitec BIG BOY.  BUT you do have an older version by a different vendor.  But the control circuitry is totally different.  NOW THAT’s NOT CONFUSING?.?  LOL.

You have either a White Rodgers or a Trombetta solenoid.  I don’t know if they can be cleaned.  

The BIG BOY Solenoid in the 100 A size works off a continuous 12 VDC signal to the control wires (small terminals).  But, just to make it confusing, the 200 A, which is the mainstay and most commonly called BIG BOY is only rated for 15 - 30 seconds of FULL 12 VDC.  It will start to overheat the coil and burn it up.  There are specific control devices to reduce the control voltage to 8 or 4 VDC….then that puppy will stay happy.

Without having the print you have, I can, factually tell you this.  The solenoid IS supposed to be engaged and the internal high current contacts carry up to the rated level and it IS a a continuous duty…so the voltage to the control wires can stay on.

Two ways to test…do both.  Have someone hold down the BATT BOOST switch.  Don’t know without your circuit, which “system”, House or Chassis provides the control voltage.  Try it KEY OFF.  Check the small terminals.  Then KEY ON…test again.  Should be 12 VDC.  Finally…no joy.  Remove the one wire.  Do a continuity test to ground.  If NOT a ground….try the other.  ONE has go be ground.  What does the print say.  Once you have a good ground connected to a terminal…then any 12 VDC source should energize or lock (CLUNK) in the solenoid.

ONCE engaged….read the voltage to ground on each side.  Should be exactly, probably less than 0.1 VDC difference.  Then put the probes on the two studs.  ZERO Volts or less than 0.1 VDC. IF so….coil is good and contacts are good.  If coil is bad….need replacement.  If high resistwnce….such as more than 0.2-0.3 VDC difference or reading across the studs…bad contacts.

BUT if the coil works and the testing shows good contacts…and your boost works…now a matter of chasing the circuit.

BUT, most folks with rigs like yours and that big 3 stud device are replacing the whole system.  They are installing a Blue Seas ML-ACR.  Really inexpensive and you will or might spend more trying to put in “new” parts on a totally outdated system.

Use the search here.  Put in ML-ACR or ACR or Blue Seas….then click on everywhere.  Choose topics.  Skim.  Scads of topics and how to and info.  Do the search again….this time use files.  I think someone wrote up a paper on it,

EDIT….look in your manual.  Probably in section 9 Chassis electrical or maybe section 9.  There is usually a diagram or pictorial.

MY GUESS….from the connection points and trying to blow up the print….yes…that is the BATTERY BOOST Solenoid…trust me….but VERIFY yourself….

That’s it…good luck…let us know…

Bedroom TV Cabinet
waterskier_1 11 hours ago

Take off the four wooden "buttons" on the front wood trim, and that should reveal screws that can then be removed with should remove the wood "trim" piece around the TV.  I see what looks like possibly some wood "buttons" on the side of the trim piece that may also need to be removed to reveal additional screws.

  -Rick N.

Is this a REAL Big Boy? Help with ID and Troubleshooting. Thanks.
Frank McElroy 11 hours ago

2 hours ago, gjh2916 said:

On the high current plate their is a Battery Boost Solenoid I am pointing to it, and per attached drawing. Is this what everyone refers to a Big Boy solenoid? I'm having trouble keeping my chassis battery charged when plugged into shore power. I just replaced chassis battery and when plugged into shore power the chassis side of battery boost solenoid reads 12.78 volts, and the house side of solenoid reads 14.5 volts.

You do not have a big boy in your model year coach.  You likely have a failed battery maintainer.  Here is a link to a set of wiring diagrams in our Downloads section.

 

Cracked Front Rotor. 2004 HR Imperial. Help ! Need assistance
vito.a 11 hours ago

Some cracks are okay.  The larger ones that go all the way to the edge are not.  

Bay Door Handle
MJ.STIGER 11 hours ago

Ok so I decided to take it into my own hands. I ended up drilling a hole and tapping it for 6-32 screw. And used some blue lock tight. To piece it back together. This should hold me over for some years until I can find the exact replacement.

Is this a REAL Big Boy? Help with ID and Troubleshooting. Thanks.
gjh2916 9 hours ago

Frank is there away to test the battery maintainer. the green light on it lit.

Surge protector questions. Locations? Hard wired vs Pedestal plug in? Discussion and advice needed.
MIRIAM 9 hours ago

Another Newbie question - since I'm 50amp coach and have a 50amp (progressive industries) surge protector, does it matter that I have the surge protector plugged to an adapter into 30amp.  Should I be using a 30amp surge protector while on 30am?  I've only been on 30amp 2x in a year and never had a problem, so never considered it......

....until today.....I've had the coach for a little over a year and never really had an issue with power until today......the power flickered (later learned it was NOT just in RV, but in the actual host house on the property) and, while everything is 'fine' and working normal, I happened to notice the red light on the progressive industries 50a surge protector is LIGHTLY illuminating, but not very bright like the green and blue are, but it's there.  Could it  be I am a 50amp coach and plugged in to 30amp?  I wouldn't think so and just seems 'new'  we have been here 5 weeks with zero problems until today.  I've tried troubleshooting and resetting everything removed the plugs, reset breakers inside and outside, but just can't figure out why it's saying there is "an open negative" on the surge protector.

to be clear, the way I plugged in - I plug in the adapter (50 to 30) into 30 pole - then, the 50amp surge protector (which doesn't show red) - then - plug in my 50amp plug and the red comes on, BUT it's not bright like the green and blue. You can't even see it unless you're standing RIGHT in front of it and the blue and green you can see clearly from a distance and inside the coach) I don't THINK it's been there and just happened to notice when I was there after power flickered and my AGS kicked my generator on, so when power came back (almost immediately) I shut down generator.  (Thinking too much power with genny and plugged to shore, so panicked and ran to turn off genny - BTW is that even true? Does running genny on shore matter?  I've read conflicting opinions and I just never do it, so never really mattered until today when AGS kicked it on and shore came back.  It's the first time it happened and I'm a newbie, so looking for experience.  **i did read prior post about it possibly being a bad adapter and I carry spares, so I tried a different one and no change.  My cord reel is not even 1/4 of the way out, so no stress...I've read SO MANY posts in electrical using search for surge protectors and nothing was a hit, so I decided to just create new and ask.

BTW - I have an SurgeGuard auto transfer and it has been working flawlessly while I was trying different things, too.  While on the SurgeGuard, because that is so great, I do feel protected and just not sure if even that is a false sense of security. 

Thanks, in advance!  

Surge protector questions. Locations? Hard wired vs Pedestal plug in? Discussion and advice needed.
Tom Cherry 9 hours ago

13 minutes ago, MIRIAM said:

Another Newbie question - since I'm 50amp coach and have a 50amp (progressive industries) surge protector, does it matter that I have the surge protector plugged to an adapter into 30amp.  Should I be using a 30amp surge protector while on 30am?  I've only been on 30amp 2x in a year and never had a problem, so never considered it......

....until today.....I've had the coach for a little over a year and never really had an issue with power until today......the power flickered (later learned it was NOT just in RV, but in the actual host house on the property) and, while everything is 'fine' and working normal, I happened to notice the red light on the progressive industries 50a surge protector is LIGHTLY illuminating, but not very bright like the green and blue are, but it's there.  Could it  be I am a 50amp coach and plugged in to 30amp?  I wouldn't think so and just seems 'new'  we have been here 5 weeks with zero problems until today.  I've tried troubleshooting and resetting everything removed the plugs, reset breakers inside and outside, but just can't figure out why it's saying there is "an open negative" on the surge protector.

to be clear, the way I plugged in - I plug in the adapter (50 to 30) into 30 pole - then, the 50amp surge protector (which doesn't show red) - then - plug in my 50amp plug and the red comes on, BUT it's not bright like the green and blue. You can't even see it unless you're standing RIGHT in front of it and the blue and green you can see clearly from a distance and inside the coach) I don't THINK it's been there and just happened to notice when I was there after power flickered and my AGS kicked my generator on, so when power came back (almost immediately) I shut down generator.  (Thinking too much power with genny and plugged to shore, so panicked and ran to turn off genny - BTW is that even true? Does running genny on shore matter?  I've read conflicting opinions and I just never do it, so never really mattered until today when AGS kicked it on and shore came back.  It's the first time it happened and I'm a newbie, so looking for experience.  **i did read prior post about it possibly being a bad adapter and I carry spares, so I tried a different one and no change.  My cord reel is not even 1/4 of the way out, so no stress...I've read SO MANY posts in electrical using search for surge protectors and nothing was a hit, so I decided to just create new and ask.

BTW - I have an SurgeGuard auto transfer and it has been working flawlessly while I was trying different things, too.  While on the SurgeGuard, because that is so great, I do feel protected and just not sure if even that is a false sense of security. 

Thanks, in advance!  

OK...from the TOP.  I had a SURGE GUARD 50 Amp plug in.  I didn't realize that there were better ones out there. I actually had MY surge suppressor HARD WIRED IN.  I installed a MALE and a FEMALE fittings....UPSTREAM of the ATS. So, I plugged in the Surge Guard THERE...where is SHOULD BE. I hated the PLUG IN and UNPLUG.

There is also a fallacy.  IF you have an OPEN Neutral DOWN STREAM...the Plug IN Adapater ain't gonna catch it.

NOW....about the 30 Amp.  I use 30 all the time.  That line is UPSTREAM.  SO, all the 30 does is take the single Line 1 Hot and split it to Hot 1 and Hot 2.  The NEUTRAL goes to the NETURAL.  SO, bad power....it is caught.  BUT, the Remote on the Progressive reads Line I and Line 2 as EXACTLY the same VOLTS.  Since the Protector is right before my ATS...then if there is a LOAD on Line 1 and NO load on Line 2....the Surge Protector reads 120 VAC and 20 Amps Line 1 and 120 VAC  on Line 2 and ZERO AMPS.  If there was a load on both...it would be displayed.

In you case, I can't tell you now much you are at risk.  You are ACTUALLY double protected....two sets of MOV's for Surge.  BUT some major high level EE's think that is BAD.  If there is a surge or spike then it might be DIVIDED and neither one will absorb it.  The INDUSTRY for Home USE....says NEVER plug ONE surge suppressor into another ONE.  NEC and UL agree.

NOW, does your Surge Guard ATS protect you from an OPEN NEUTRAL?  IF SO, then you have protection.  BUT, if it  doesn't...then you are at risk.

If the ATS does NOT protect or SHUT DOWN AUTOMATICALLY when there is an OPEN NEUTRAL, the MY recommendation.  Purchase a male and female 50 Amp connectors.  Then pull the INCOMING LINE (Shore) out of the ATS. Hook that up to a FEMALE 50 AMP plug.  Then take the OUTGOING to the MAIN PANEL.  Hook that up to a MALE 50 Amp PLug.  NOW, plug in the Progressive.  Your INCOMING line, including the SHORE Cord and the PLUG can get an open NEUTRAL.  The Progressive will now protect that.  SO, you don't have to fiddle with plugging in the Progressive. It is exactly WHERE the HW50C is supposed to be....right before the ATS. You have all the features there.  The SurgeGuard ATS is also protected.  You and use 30 or even 120 VAC 20 AMP power.  JUST remember to always keep the Remote on 30 unless you are on 20 AMPS.

That is the ultimate protection for your situation.  My PLUG went out.  I had an OPEN neutral.  Had that happened in your situation...you would have incurred major damage and the Progressive would have been fat dumb and happy.  MAYBE the SG ATS would have shut down or warned you.  I don't know.  BUT, if it allowed an Open Neutral to exist....and the Progressive shuts down and you have to OVERRIDE it manually...then issues.

Hope this helps... 

Is this a REAL Big Boy? Help with ID and Troubleshooting. Thanks.
Frank McElroy 9 hours ago

Measure the voltage to see if the House batteries while being charged is passing through to the chassis batteries.

Is this a REAL Big Boy? Help with ID and Troubleshooting. Thanks.
gjh2916 8 hours ago

I'm going to test my battery maintainer tomorrow, I found the testing procedure for Lambert LE-415. Also has anyone used a Xantrex Digal Echo Charge 82-0123-01 If my LE-415 is bad the two choices are the Echo Charge or Blue Seas ML-ACR. Looks like Echo Charge is easier installation.

Is this a REAL Big Boy? Help with ID and Troubleshooting. Thanks.
joefromperry 8 hours ago

15 minutes ago, gjh2916 said:

I'm going to test my battery maintainer tomorrow, I found the testing procedure for Lambert LE-415. Also has anyone used a Xantrex Digal Echo Charge 82-0123-01 If my LE-415 is bad the two choices are the Echo Charge or Blue Seas ML-ACR. Looks like Echo Charge is easier installation.

I used the Echo Charge in my 2003 Signature while I had my Big Boy out to clean / repair. It worked as it should, and I keep it connected, minus the fuse, in case I have Big Boy problems again.

Surge protector questions. Locations? Hard wired vs Pedestal plug in? Discussion and advice needed.
MIRIAM 8 hours ago

54 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

OK...from the TOP.  I had a SURGE GUARD 50 Amp plug in.  I didn't realize that there were better ones out there. I actually had MY surge suppressor HARD WIRED IN.  I installed a MALE and a FEMALE fittings....UPSTREAM of the ATS. So, I plugged in the Surge Guard THERE...where is SHOULD BE. I hated the PLUG IN and UNPLUG.

There is also a fallacy.  IF you have an OPEN Neutral DOWN STREAM...the Plug IN Adapater ain't gonna catch it.

NOW....about the 30 Amp.  I use 30 all the time.  That line is UPSTREAM.  SO, all the 30 does is take the single Line 1 Hot and split it to Hot 1 and Hot 2.  The NEUTRAL goes to the NETURAL.  SO, bad power....it is caught.  BUT, the Remote on the Progressive reads Line I and Line 2 as EXACTLY the same VOLTS.  Since the Protector is right before my ATS...then if there is a LOAD on Line 1 and NO load on Line 2....the Surge Protector reads 120 VAC and 20 Amps Line 1 and 120 VAC  on Line 2 and ZERO AMPS.  If there was a load on both...it would be displayed.

In you case, I can't tell you now much you are at risk.  You are ACTUALLY double protected....two sets of MOV's for Surge.  BUT some major high level EE's think that is BAD.  If there is a surge or spike then it might be DIVIDED and neither one will absorb it.  The INDUSTRY for Home USE....says NEVER plug ONE surge suppressor into another ONE.  NEC and UL agree.

NOW, does your Surge Guard ATS protect you from an OPEN NEUTRAL?  IF SO, then you have protection.  BUT, if it  doesn't...then you are at risk.

If the ATS does NOT protect or SHUT DOWN AUTOMATICALLY when there is an OPEN NEUTRAL, the MY recommendation.  Purchase a male and female 50 Amp connectors.  Then pull the INCOMING LINE (Shore) out of the ATS. Hook that up to a FEMALE 50 AMP plug.  Then take the OUTGOING to the MAIN PANEL.  Hook that up to a MALE 50 Amp PLug.  NOW, plug in the Progressive.  Your INCOMING line, including the SHORE Cord and the PLUG can get an open NEUTRAL.  The Progressive will now protect that.  SO, you don't have to fiddle with plugging in the Progressive. It is exactly WHERE the HW50C is supposed to be....right before the ATS. You have all the features there.  The SurgeGuard ATS is also protected.  You and use 30 or even 120 VAC 20 AMP power.  JUST remember to always keep the Remote on 30 unless you are on 20 AMPS.

That is the ultimate protection for your situation.  My PLUG went out.  I had an OPEN neutral.  Had that happened in your situation...you would have incurred major damage and the Progressive would have been fat dumb and happy.  MAYBE the SG ATS would have shut down or warned you.  I don't know.  BUT, if it allowed an Open Neutral to exist....and the Progressive shuts down and you have to OVERRIDE it manually...then issues.

Hope this helps... 

I think I got lost there, but I'll re-read SNF google to better understand some of your mentions.  I thought I did have a hard-wired surge protector, so maybe that was a mistake.  I went and took a couple photos to see if you're familiar with this equipment.  Maybe I need something else.

if I have an open neutral in my cord, how does that happen?  I assume they just go bad, but it wasn't moved or anything.  How can I fix the cord or is that a shop thing?  Familiar with anyone in the Amelia Island or close in FL?  I have a shop in Eustis, so I guess I may have to go home early and get this looked at.  I don't want a small problem becoming a big one and I'm going to buy a 30amp portable surge protector to see if that changes anything, too.

Replacement bulb
rbowlesusa 8 hours ago

I'm not sure where to get a replacement reverse light.  There are no numbers on the housing.  I can not get it apart to replace bulb.  Looks like it is around 3.5" round. It was glued in.

Very Hot Weather Operations
joefromperry 7 hours ago

On 7/16/2023 at 5:38 PM, jacwjames said:

First time I'd seen this graph/chart. 

Confirms my decision to add a secondary transmission cooler after installing a CG&J radiator and getting transmission temps +230F.  After installing the cooler my tranny runs cooler then engine and it gets to ~178F will cool right back down after cresting grade etc. 

 

 Another member was going to add a cooler but the Allison shop would not do it saying 250F temps were just fine and dandy. 

The bigger point that Allison made to me was that adding the cooler would eventually destroy my transmission because of the added pressure from the extended lines. Not sure that's totally accurate, but checking with other Allison techs, they concurred. Turns out the higher temps, although not causing damage, were due to low coolant. The low coolant was due to the sight glass being etched across the middle, making it look like coolant level was fine. Once I replaced the glass and adjusted coolant level, temp was back down to close to engine coolant temp. Blackstone labs analyzed the coolant that had been through the higher temps and said it looked fine.

Build Sheet? Need more info!!
Steve P 7 hours ago

Got the attached from Revco.  It has no part numbers or model numbers.  Do I need to ask Revco for the RVIA Data sheet?  Also, would they have a PDF of the "sure to be accurate" wiring diagrams that they would send me?

 

1RF42464082045901 .pdf

Build Sheet? Need more info!!
Dr4Film 7 hours ago

That is your build sheet.

Possibly you asked for the wrong information.

You need to specifically ask for the Data Card. REV sent me mine for the 06 Dynasty one day after asking for it.

New Downloads

1999 Monaco Dynasty Brochure
Frank McElroy Friday at 09:02 PM

1999 Monaco Dynasty Sales Brochure

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