That's what I remember seeing on our way from AZ to WI 6 weeks ago. Today with 75 OAT, coming back from an alignment, the temp ranged between 188 and 197. On the level @ 65 mph it was 188. On a 3/4 mile incline that saw the boost go from 20 psi up to 40 psi, the temp quickly rose to 197 degrees. Then at the top, after leveling off, the temp came back to 188.  Ater topping off with fuel and a couple miles back home, the temp sits at 185. The transmission temp will stay steady between 190 and 195. I normally would not question these numbers if I hadn't seen lower values on our trip earlier. In 5 days, we will be in MT and ID with mountains instead of small hills to climb. Then I will normally down shift to maintain 1800+ rpm to help the cooling. I've read that the fan will go into high speed @ 220 degrees. Others say 195 while some say it is variable. Some say the engine will protect itself and not to worry. I just want to know what Monaco/Cummins designed the safe range to be for the ISM 500..  

Update:  Switches are now in a more accessible place.  Not the way I would have designed it from scratch, but now easily accessible.

Thanks to all for the advice.  I extended wires from the under-bed area. Routing the three cables: Intellitec, Fan and Aladdin, around drawers was a bit tricky but protected with wireloom now.  Scariest part was drilling a 1" hole thru the Corian top which then goes into the lower LH corner of switch box.

2 hours ago, philcarrell said:

My compressor on my 08 Exec is froze up,  I am trying to locate manufacturer and model number of the compressor looked in files and found a reference to one for a 2008 Sig. Could the exec have the same compressor

Is the clutch engaging?

My 04 Dynasty is at DDA repair  for a speed sensor failure. Does anyone know where the ECM for the transmission is located? Any info would help...Thanks

3 hours ago, Venturer said:

I suspect the ISM is higher. My ISL would switch to high speed at 212 degrees and shut off at 190.

Guess that's why I have never heard my fan run at high speed 🤔.

So I just got a call from the dealer.   They are replacing the inverter and the motor for the front passenger slide.  Also, they have ordered a part for the front passenger seat extension since the foot rest won't fully retract.  They also ordered a water pump switch for the master bath since that one isn't working but the other two area (not a big concern for me, anyway).

Not an issue for us!  Yes, we are getting a bit antsy to get driving it, but I'd rather them replace the 'expensive' stuff before we pick it up.  We do have a walk through appointment for Saturday morning, so we'll see how that goes!  Fingers crossed!

The Allison ECU and the HWH leveling computer are attached to the basement ceiling in the main basement compartment where the inverter is located.  You'll need to remove the black felt/plywood ceiling cover to access them.  

Make sure you check the wire connecter on the front of the Allison.  

It's likely in the ceiling between the frame rails in the first storage bin behind the front fuel tank.  You will need to unscrew this center ceiling cover to gain access

On 6/18/2024 at 7:10 PM, Dr4Film said:

 

Well, it took two days of waiting in my car with the a/c running to get a tow truck to tow my Diplomat to Josams. Thank Coach-Net. 
 

I think I discovered the location of leak. The gravel under the steering box was discolored. Barry at Josams, nice guy BTW, said he swapped out a TRW steering box for a customer a couple of weeks ago and it cost $2,000. Ouch!!!

Barry said he would call me in the morning to let me know what they find. Wish me luck. 

On 6/18/2024 at 7:10 PM, Dr4Film said:

Have you called Barry at Josam's to see if they would do the repairs? That would be my first call. They changed out the Sheppard Steering box to a TRW for me on my previous Windsor.

Barry said a customer paid $2,000 for a swap to a TRW.  Is that in line with what you experienced ?

I don't understand the pricing structure on radiators and CAC. You can buy a radiator for less than $1000.00 including big boys up to 15L capacity. I've seen them for $600.00 on amazon and Ebay. Amazon comments another thread. Tell them its  for a motor home and it seems like they automatically add a zero.

26 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Guess that's why I have never heard my fan run at high speed 🤔.

I never heard mine until the thermovalve failed and it went to high speed.  Something sounded different so I got out and walked around the coach and it was loud. 

Thanks Frank, when replacing the speed sensor I assume they need to program it to the ECM? DDA is wanting to know this. Thanks, I'll relay that this is possibly where it is

On 5/3/2023 at 9:25 PM, Frank McElroy said:

You have a leaking sector shaft seal and to fix it will require a rebuild kit and likely you have worn internal parts.  Time to look at a TRW swap.

What price range would there be top replace with a rebuilt TRW box?

Im looking at maybe having to replace my Sheppard box due to a leak. 

1 hour ago, rpasetto said:

Update:  Switches are now in a more accessible place.  Not the way I would have designed it from scratch, but now easily accessible.

    

Thanks to all for the advice.  I extended wires from the under-bed area. Routing the three cables: Intellitec, Fan and Aladdin, around drawers was a bit tricky but protected with wireloom now.  Scariest part was drilling a 1" hole thru the Corian top which then goes into the lower LH corner of switch box.

 

GREAT JOB.

Thanks for the pictures and follow up 

On 6/24/2024 at 12:44 PM, Tom Cherry said:

OK….follow up and background as well as the most probable cause for Miriam’s issue.  Spent time on phone with Miriam last night.  Called Progressive this morning.  Then followup with Miriam and also sorted out a few nuances.  I may have skimmed, but the real issues were sort of in the background. She also clarified another key point.

• Was on 30 Amp power.  AC on. Gas refrigerator on AC. Magnum charge rate was set high or not scaled back. Was running washer….has separate dryer…not on. The entire system or local grid blipped…as in on and off several times or at least a noticeable blip and interruption.
• AGS kicked on even though the 30 second timer had not timed down??  A puzzlement…but obviously some “unusual” power blips or surges or such.
• AC and Washer never shut down.  Interior light (12 VDC) did flicker…but came back on….potential battery issue.  She had not disabled Search Watts.
• Progressive showed an OPEN NEUTRAL.  Miriam, as a precaution let the genny run and checked it.  But she STILL had 30 A power….the error or fault codes were her concern.  She unplugged and then plugged back in….still had the open neutral fault. But, the LED (red) was faint.  This was an error code that could have been a result of a built up charge.  THEN all the posting.
• This morning, as she was going to test the Progressive on an adjoining pedestal with a different 30-50 dogbone….all was well.  FIXED ITSELF.  I did NOT know that until after I talked to Progressive the first time.  Their tech support guy was great….listened and commented and theorized…..so, here is what he and I concluded….not knowing that she DID have power but had error codes….which disappeared….

OK…bit of information for those who help and also have different MH. That Beaver is a “blend” of features and systems that I don’t ever remember reading about.

• 2003….but has an early version Intellitec MPX.  Only TWO output modules…not 3 like the Camelots and has a large free standing Master Control module….NOT an IPX.
• Has NO Intellitec EMS system.  It has the Dual IN - Dual OUT, with subpanel system like on the Dynasty’s.
• Also, the Surgeguard full featured ATS was standard….but no remote monitoring.  Did not get to ask about an Aladdin?.?.  
• The PO did a major rework of the HVAC system.  Pulled out the FF fan in the rear galley area and put in a THIRD Dometic….and stole power from the Block Heater circuit.  FWIW…Beaver never out a FF in the hallway between the galley and bedroom. The only FF left in toilet.
• SO…keep this in mind if advice is given…this is a “rare bird”….then modified and even more customized…

OK….this is the gist of the call to Progressive…I made one….then got information from Miriam as she described the lights a little more concisely….so TWO tech support folks both agreed…..

• The simple 6 light PI surge suppressor is also a PEDESTAL Tester.  Miriam was using that feature, but she was not turning back off the breaker before she plugged in the 30-50 adapter.  Is changing that.  Therefore, the PI is designed for “no load” testing of a Pedestal.
• The PI is strictly a “remote” monitoring device.  It has surge MOV’s but NO contactor….like the HW50C….so, good bad or indifferent, it WILL allow substandard power to be passed on.  BUT you will have idiotic lights….
• We discussed the fact that when she plugged in the adapter, she got the error code.  BTW….if there was a OPEN Neutral, the PI would display that regardless of on a  30 or 50.
• SOME folks think that having upstream MOV will protect their downstream high $$ ATS….NO evidence of that….but it is commonly done….
• We concluded that there must be a “load” or high resistance issue in the 6 points or connections from the PI Neutral to the Neutral attachment to the receptacle inside the pedestal.
• He also stated that it was not necessary and redundant to have two suppressors in series.  They had discussed internally but did not know that NEC and UL, at least several years ago, had said NOT to daisy chain 120 VAC units like a suppressor power strip used with a UPS suppressor.
• Agreed with the testing steps that Miriam planned to do this morning.

BOTTOM LINE…..the gist of follow up comments from Progressive….

• The dogbones were probably overloaded.  A quick amp add got the total to well over 30.  May not have tripped the breaker, but the load was probably in excess.
• Second.  There is probably a small amount of potential between the Neutral and Ground….which, if to Code, was back in the main panel.  The PI has been known to have a dim LED if the voltage or potential between Ground and Neutral is approaching the “OMG TURN ON” full intensity.  So, ODDS ARE….there is the possibility of wiring or connection issues….which they often see and a different pedestal will not display the same errors as the “connections” are tight.
• Next…the overloading of a Dogbone and a high resistance connection will/may give a false or dim positive.
• Finally….the PI on Saturday night, based on temperatures and humidity may have cleared in the early hours….but heat and load might have created, again,  the same scenario.  If it is OK today….testing or overloading it would not be recommended….but if that is the need, then it could very well display the false positive error code….
• PI will do some investigation and get back on the advisability of daisy chaining…. 
   

Miriam now has a much better understanding of how all this works and realizes that the PI she has is only good, basically, for testing and that her Surgeguard ATS is the main line of defense….

Hi all - it's been a brutal couple days at work, so sorry for the late responses.  Fortunately, whatever it was, resolved itself.  I will continue to monitor and have a new PI on on the way, but plan to use to only when checking the pedestal.  Considering my Southwire ATS/SurgeGuard on board, just don't need it.  I've used it for a year since we had the coach, but who knows why this blip caused the PI light to lightly illuminate and it has fixed itself (without me changing anything)  It's been 36+ hours and the light is still gone.  My silver lining, I took a crash course with deeper dive than just surface level understanding on multiple different pieces of my equipment. 
 

thanks to everyone who took time to read and offer help.  Love this community and can't wait to be on the other side offering help instead of asking.  ✌️

Likely they don't need access to the transmission ECM to replace the sensor.  Electronic access to the transmission computer should be via the rear databus port using the Allison software.  The transmission should be on the same databus diagnostic port as the engine.

The rear databus port is in the engine bay on the passenger side below the RRB (rear run bay electrical panel box).

5 minutes ago, MIRIAM said:

 Considering my Southwire ATS/SurgeGuard on board, just don't need it.

I am confused about your statement above highlighted from your last post.

Why do you think you don't need it?

Thankyou for the info Frank...love this group!!

30 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

I am confused about your statement above highlighted from your last post.

Why do you think you don't need it?

 

Richard,

There will be a “file” posted on this. It has been written and is being reviewed.  Bottom line. Southwire or Surge Guard DOES recommend supplemental or upstream or redundant MOV surge protection.  

• So, whether it is Progressive or Surge Guard, the Progressive can and is used as a “no load pedestal tester”.  Much like the unit you make.
• Then, the Progressive is a first line of defense so if there is a surge or a condition that would or could damage the Surge Guard ATS, having it as a sacrificial device is the best.
• In addition from both a cost standpoint as well as functional standpoint, the more expensive ATS might not get damaged.  But the real, non $$ issue, is that there is NOT an Aladdin compliant replacement made for the Surge Guard ATS…so the interface with the Aladdin is totally removed.

This is the first time we have had a manufacturer state that daisy chaining two surge suppressors IS RECOMMENDED.  Therefore we now have a technical recommendation and manufacturer’s recommendation.  

That will be explained in more detail, with links and such….as soon as it is reviewed. Hope this helps.  Once that is in the files, there will be a link to close this out.  I just covered this with Miriam and she now understands….so….please wait until the file is up.

Thanks…

On my 2005 Signature, not connected to shore power, the electrical status screen shows the output of the generator at 2100W on L1 and 200W on L2 which strikes me as odd. Is this normal to have the L1 and L2 numbers so different? Additionally, a 12.5 kW generator only putting out 2300 watts seems low. Looking for comments on whether these numbers indicate a problem.

4 hours ago, philcarrell said:

My compressor on my 08 Exec is froze up,  I am trying to locate manufacturer and model number of the compressor looked in files and found a reference to one for a 2008 Sig. Could the exec have the same compressor

Do you have the Data Cards for your coach?? It's listed on those. 

 I replaced mine. Purchased AC compressor Sanden 4822 Aero Climate #1101290 $323.68,  from Aero Climate Control Inc. 2012 Industrial Blvd. Rockwell, TX 75087 #972-772-5506 www.a parts.com. Talk with Robert he is very knowledgeable with Motorhomes. They were very helpful and responsive. They shipped the item timely and was pack safely. If you do have to replace the compressor, you will have to flush the lines, condenser and evaporator. I had to use 2 gallons (very expensive) to flush clean. I would also suggest changing out the dryer and expansion valve. Hope this helps and wish you the best.

2007 Holiday Rambler 330HP 40-foot

@Tom Cherry

Well that's all well and good, BUT....

I am still confused why the think they don't need the Southwire ATS/Surge Guard.

Not an issue, it supplies whatever power for what you have hooked up to each line. If needed, up to its theoretical combined 12.5kw max, 50A each line so around 6kw each. Less load is easier on the windings.

UPDATE

I have part of the issue resolved.  After several conversations with Chris at M&M RV Electronice I have added a new control master for the IPX and isolated the EMS board and display from the IPX circuit.  EMS now works properly.  Still have an IPX fault but believe it is narrowed down to the portion of the circuit going to the front street side slide.  Prior to having the initial problem I had noticed that keypad over dining table (only one in slide) did not work.  Did not notice this until after our first trip a few weeks after purchasing coach and shortly before issue started.  Now thinking IPX harness has been damaged somewhere and hope I can get to it.

I have found a leak in the line going to the washing machine in the back of the coach.  I never use the washer/dryer so I'm thinking I'll just turn off the water supply and fix it later.  However, I don't seem to have a wrench/key for the Manabloc system.  The ones I've seen on Amazon are a triangle shape.  Any ideas on where to find a key for an older coach?  I did try to turn it with a pair of pliers but was afraid I'd just mess up the plastic.  Do the valves turn fairly easily?  I suspect that mine have never been turned off in 20 plus years.

Yes, pliers should do the job.

If they haven't been used in many years the certainly will be stiff.

Manabloc key?
Frank Bergamo 11 hours ago