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Discussions
MyronTruex
You might indeed have a funky ground wire on the controller with your last description of events. You need a known good ground for a voltmeter when testing the ground to see if any voltage shows up but you can easily miss a problem.
I rarely suggest taking stabs at things but since the controller is in a wet environment, connections can be a problem. I would suggest you take the ground wire off and cut the connector (spade lug), off and replace it. It is possible the connector has some corrosion and simple vibration throughout the compartment may be enough to make it go silly.
Getting good voltage measurement when things are working (at the latching controller), when it is working is very important and you should write them down. Then when it acts up you can compare new readings.
MyronTruex
Here is an incredible write up from Vito. I hope he doesn't mind me sharing.
AC replacement from Vito.docx AIR CONDITIONER TROUBLESHOOTING USE THIS ONE.pdf
Tom Cherry
6 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:Thank you for taking the time to post this update. It's nice to hear about how a problem got solved. That's how we all learn.
Double DITTO. You approached this very logically. And what we discussed early on, worked. A "fault" in the 3 wire MPX line or harness and the new IPX master not resolving it would be logical. Monaco had some bad habit like stapling INTO the harness or loom instead of stapling "over" it. Gonna take some doing, but you need continuous continuity on the 3 wire buss. That assumes that the keypads on that section are all in parallel...and not "in series". I know you understand that, so you'll isolate. THE TEST. If you can find the INCOMING harness for the slide and the outgoing harness....then disconnect (means of doing so is your choice) and then jumper and reboot the MPX. FWIW... The umbilical under the slide is the SOLE (I THINK) source of "power or electrical or whatever" for that slide...at least on mine. Never chased the umbilical back into the area behind the sidewall below the side. BUT, I can tell you that my CUT OUT for the umbilical and the location of the mounting bracket was POOR. I had to remount the bracket holding it....when there was an "interference" and bent the whole affair. I'd look under the slide and check the freedom of movement of the umbilical. If you can get to the ceiling or above it in the bay where the umbilical come in...both ENDS of the 3 wire buss should be there. SO, whack away. Then splice, eliminating, temporarily, the entire array of keypad on the slide. THAT, after rebooting, should fix it...BUT, if NOT....then the short or whatever is upstream of that...so you gotta chase from there.
I THINK that you disconnected all the key pads and such. Been a while since we talked. If you disconnect the key pads, assuming they are in parallel....test again. ISSUES...then a short in the wiring. IF it WORKS with the pads unplugged, there is an issue in a pad. Paul Whittle and Frank are you source here. They may have used ones and can program yours. They would typically request the pad to download the program. BUT, since this is nothing more than the ALPHA- Numeric code (Module Alpha and Numeric circuit number, you have the diagram on the wall and the prints have the modules and such. YES, that works.
Tom Cherry
9 hours ago, 4rickyg said:Thank you and yes it is the penguin low profile. I believe all three a c's were replaced about nine years ago when I bought the coach. They have the new version thermostats. Fan is set to auto. I will try replacing the capacitor maybe I will get lucky..
Don't quite understand the NEW VERSION thermostats. You should, based on my recollection of the years and such, have the Dometic 5 Button thermostats. There has NOT been any "upgrades" by Dometic. Your OEM HVAC system is the CCC "Multiplex" type. The controller in each one and the thermostat are that. Post a picture of the Thermostat.
However, that is sort of "beside" the point. If the unit is up and running and the AMPS go skyhigh....then, MAYBE the controller has bad contacts. A high resistance contact may (should?) do that.
The way to TEST. FROM the 2005 HR Sales Brochure (I'd download that from the HR site...a VALUABLE TOOL), there were either TWO or THREE HVAC's installed. BUT, they were ALL 15K BTU units. SO the CONTROLLERS are identical.
You need to pull the outside cover. The Control module (Dometic calls it the AC Board. I easy to spot. Remove it. Then do the same for another one....doesn't matter which one. Take a picture of the DIP switch settings on them. Then, REPROGRAM or swap the DIP settings. Reinstall BOTH. IF BOTH are GOOD....then that is the easiest.
NOW, you WILL have to reset BOTH (assuming you have multiple Thermostats). POWER OFF (the bottom switch) Hold the TOP and BOTTOM buttons (Mode and Zone). THEN, while holding....turn ON. FF will be displayed. NOW, if you are referring to the MICROAIR T'Stats....read the manual and do the same. RESET.
THEN....try it out. IF the problem is NOW in the OTHER unit...bingo, the contacts on the relay are bad. You can purchase a NEW one...all you do is duplicate the DIP's.
That's the ONLY thing I could offer. That is not a hard job. You need to TRIP all THREE AC Breakers on the 50 AMP Main Panel, for safety of COURSE...which is what you should obviously do if you swap the Capacitors.
That's it. Post the T-Stat pictures...
BTW. The ON/OFF switch is a HIGH failure item. MOST NEVER use it. Use the MODE button and go to OFF. You'll be glad you did....LOL.
Pduggs
On 6/20/2024 at 12:17 PM, Frank McElroy said:This is how I do it.
Air up the coach and then turn off the engine. On your Dynasty, remove the aux air compressor CB in the FRB so it won't start. You want to drain the wet tanks first. So, drain the main wet tank (up front with the male fitting) and drain the small aux air tank (small air line to rear drain valve). If you get any moisture, from the front main wet tank, it's time for a new air dryer. If you get a lot of water out of the aux tank, you aren't draining it often enough.
After the wet tanks are empty, I then drain one of the dry air tanks. When it's empty I drain the other dry air tank. I alternate which dry air tank I drain first. Using this procedure I'm confirming that the check valves to the wet tank and check valves between the dry air tanks are all working properly. If you find that a dry air tank is empty before the drain valve is opened, you have a failed check valve.
Hi Frank, yesterday I cleaned my engine with Pine-Sol and water. It appears my rear tank drains are leaking, though I’ve not noticed it effecting the level of the coach or my air pump running more than usual.
Any thoughts?
cbr046
If the compressor doesn't spin there's no magnetic force to put inductance into the armature. That will make current go sky high.
If the compressor starting capacitor is bad it won't start spinning, so that would be my first choice.
You can buy a mulitimeter that measures capacitance, current and voltage. $20-$30 on Amazon.
- bob
Keith H.
Will do Rocketman. The cams are by FAlcon Electronics LLC. Not to be congused with Falcon Electronics Inc or Corp.
I’ll get pics up once they arrive
Frank McElroy
1 hour ago, Pduggs said:Hi Frank, yesterday I cleaned my engine with Pine-Sol and water. It appears my rear tank drains are leaking, though I’ve not noticed it effecting the level of the coach or my air pump running more than usual.
Any thoughts?
It is very common for a coach to stay level for weeks as long as there are no leaks in the air leveling system, yet the air tanks will lose air over a few days. As long as your air system passes the DOT air brake safety test of no more than 2 PSI drop in air pressure per minute, you are just fine. Sometimes cycling those valves will help seat them a bit more.
Venturer
OK thanks. FWIW, I think the valve is normally open until the water temp causes the wax to melt and closing it. The piece of rag in it blocked the flow thru it simulating what a high temperature would do to the wax. That caused the flow to go through the switching valve which caused the fan to go to high speed like it would have if high water temperature had melted the wax. At least that's my understanding of how it should work.
Dr4Film
After getting our 06 Dynasty back home from picking it up in SLC, I removed and delicately cleaned the sensors then calibrated them. That didn't help at all.
I purchased the SeeLevel Tank Level System which is 100% better, more accurate and far easier to use than those useless sensors.
Good luck!
Rgoodman
I have a 2002 diplomat with a kitchen slide on my patio side. I’m looking to replace my manual awning with an electric awning but need to make sure it will mount and work with the slide that is only a few inches below the upper beltline. Has anyone installed an electric awning ?
Dr4Film
Is the "new" AC in the rear a Dometic Penguin II model with a converter board to work with the old 5 button CCC?
Is the Microair thermostat model the correct one to control AC's that used the 5 button CCC?
lake49068
Carrier stopped making RV roof AC units around 2011-13. In my opinion it was an excellent product with 2 battery powered remotes that controlled both the cooling and furnace...one for front one for rear. Fast forward to 2021 and one of my units failed and I elected to replace both. Carriers were no longer manufactured and Veurinks recommended Penguins with a new thermostat. Elected to go with 15K with heat pumps. Not sure how Veurinks handled the wiring but the new new units worked great. Let me know if you want part numbers, etc and I'll look for the invoice. If you go this route make sure you get the cups that catch the condensation for routing to the built in drain hoses.
jacwjames
36 minutes ago, Venturer said:OK thanks. FWIW, I think the valve is normally open until the water temp causes the wax to melt and closing it. The piece of rag in it blocked the flow thru it simulating what a high temperature would do to the wax. That caused the flow to go through the switching valve which caused the fan to go to high speed like it would have if high water temperature had melted the wax. At least that's my understanding of how it should work.
The piece of rag was actually caught in the spring.
Kevin Clark
17 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:Is the "new" AC in the rear a Dometic Penguin II model with a converter board to work with the old 5 button CCC?
Is the Microair thermostat model the correct one to control AC's that used the 5 button CCC?
How do I know if it has the converter board?
yes the micro air is the correct one to replace the 5 button CCC.
03Dynasty
Thank you Jim, it's hard for us to sell but we're 85 with the problems that come with age. Headed to Maine if no bites on ads.
note: the Diamond Shield protected the front paint but deteriorated and required removing it with a razor blade. Nasty job but paint looks new today. Ceramic coated roof to wheels several times. Easy to do after the 1st application.
wamcneil
I’m planning to do the same thing. The question is about adapting the filter housing.
I don’t have a hole in the filter bracket so I’ll need to cut a hole there. Not planning to relocate the bracket like MikeZ did
I don’t think I have a threaded hole in the filter housing for a pressure gauge. I’m thinking that only ONE of my two filter housings maybe has a port for a pressure gauge.
Assuming I’m right about that (I have not yet removed either filter housing to see if they have ports), I could just drill the top of the housing that doesn’t have a port, and tap for 1/8”NPT, right?
In MikeZ’s video, he used a metric thread to NPT adapter. I’m thinking that I’d rather drill the top and tap for 1/8” NPT rather than use.
Are the two filter housings the same except one might have a metric-threaded port in the top?
Air Conditioning replacements help request
Dr4Film
@Kevin Clark If the AC in the rear is a new Penguin II and it is working with the old 5 button CCC then it must have the converter board installed. I take it that you did NOT install the AC so how do you know it is a newer model?
jacwjames
I decided to just use my secondary filter which is mounted on the passenger side of the engine, it had ports pressure sensor.
I used a small grinder and removed the other bracket.
If you want to drill and tap the filter housing don't see any reason not to.
96 EVO
Is one of those two drains for your Valid leveling tank?
If so, I can't see how your aux compressor couldn't run more frequently than needed.
Kevin Clark
40 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:@Kevin Clark If the AC in the rear is a new Penguin II and it is working with the old 5 button CCC then it must have the converter board installed. I take it that you did NOT install the AC so how do you know it is a newer model?
Correct, I did not install the newer AC. It was there when we bought the coach. The newer AC works with both the CCC thermostat and the micro air.
attached are photos of the older/non-working AC and the newer AC.
@Kevin Clark If the AC in the rear is a new Penguin II and it is working with the old 5 button CCC then it must have the converter board installed. I take it that you did NOT install the AC so how do you know it is a newer model?
Searching the SKU number of the newer unit it seems that the newer one is Penguin II?
Do I need to buy another one just like it?
Rick Chambers
My 2009 Diplomat 41pdq currently has Carrier Air V air conditioner units, they are original equipment. This unit also controls the propane furnace. The remote for the Carrier has an option for the furnace as well , so the system in the Carrier activates the furnace and the temperature sensor is in the Carrier Air V. The Carrier model is a 68RV0011KS. The Advent unit is a direct replacement for the Carrier according to etrailer so my question is , has anyone replaced with the Advent.
Adam H, thank you for your reply. I am curious how big of a project was it to run the 12v line through the wall and ceiling to the air conditioner and to the propane furnace?
RNMCBR
I went online, registered and paid my fees. I didn’t have any problem getting them to accept my money.
bobdinsmore
If you have full glass insurance, they cover the window. It's a great investment. My coverage costs $4.00 peryear and I've had several fogged windows replaced and two half windshields.
Dr4Film
I cannot make out the model number of the last photo which is your "newer" one. However, it looks more like a new "old" model Penguin versus a Penguin II.
With that said, to replace the failed rear AC you will need a Dometic Penguin II plus a converter board so it will run with an old 5 Button CCC or your Microair thermostat. Keep the new board for when you have to replace the front AC with a Penguin II you simply replace the converter board with the original one in the rear AC, then you would need either a Dometic 10 Button CCC-2 or a different model Microair that works with the 10 Button CCC-2 system to control both the rear and front AC's.
Kevin Clark
8 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:I cannot make out the model number of the last photo which is your "newer" one. However, it looks more like a new "old" model Penguin versus a Penguin II.
With that said, to replace the failed rear AC you will need a Dometic Penguin II plus a converter board so it will run with an old 5 Button CCC or your Microair thermostat. Keep the new board for when you have to replace the front AC with a Penguin II you simply replace the converter board with the original one in the rear AC, then you would need either a Dometic 10 Button CCC-2 or a different model Microair that works with the 10 Button CCC-2 system to control both the rear and front AC's.
Is this the correct one? It says pre-installed CCC2 control board:
FASS Installation Question
wamcneil
Here’s my 2ndary filter down by the muffler on the passenger side. It has a threaded port in the top.
The primary filter is on the driver side just below the driver-side rear run-box. It doesn’t have a port. My rig is identical to MikeZ’s dynasty.
Primary filter housing looks like it’s very similar to the 2ndary housing except the top isn’t drilled for a port.
Are there any differences between the two housings that aren’t apparent?
Rather than moving the 2ndary filter housing up to the location of the primary filter housing, I will discard the 2ndary filter housing and modify the primary filter housing with 1/8NPT port.
Upgrade to electric patio awning
96 EVO
Carefree Eclipse should go over your slide.
Mine does!
WilPaul35
Well, that started to work. Checked fluid in reservoir with slides in...good. Ran curb side in and out several times, held button until squealing each direction. Ran street side out until starting to bind then back in holding button until squeal. Did this a couple of time and then nothing. No action with either slide button. Went down to pump and checked breaker, not tripped. Checked for 12V to pump, had it there. Removed cable to pump, clean up connections and reconnected, still nothing. Ran out of time and help to proceed last evening. Tonight with assistance going to see if pump is getting voltage across solenoid when buttons are pushed. One step forward, one step back with this thing it seems. I just love owing A RV. (Always repairing vehicle).
scottknight
update ..... late last night while sitting in my favorite folding chair @ 97 degrees i thought maybe i can force a lean. being a 3 slider i placed the only front slide out with no levelers............ still holding just over 90 on pressure gauge in a.m. the last part replaced was the height adjust valve that controls all 4 bags. i attempted to disassemble old valve and it somehow failed as it spit out parts i was suprised to see a heavey spring as well as hydraulic fluid and some kind of a plunger guessing air over hydraulic to direct source air to fill bags or exhaust bag air. i assumed once i start leaning the water tanks flow towards the lean causing more leaning?........... waiting to see. Riverside Casino comps locals in slow hot months and will provide short test drive. Results i like, not knowing why troubles me.
96 EVO
Does your street side front slide have the two plastic / teflon runners screwed to the underside?
If so, you may want to check the condition of those. Mine were crumbling about 5yrs ago.
Dr4Film
Yes, if you only want the 13.5K AC/HP versus the 15K AC/HP which would be a different model.
malcoll
So...new M144s going on this morning...they found one hairline CRACK in each steer wheel. Each Crack starts at a stud hole and reaches out towards the outer edge... both are about 4 inches or so long but neither is through the thickness (cross section) of the wheel. Shop wouldn't mount tired on them ...so I bought two new Alcoa wheels for $275 each.
My question, can I get the original wheels repaired since these are D hole wheels and no longer available?
mdgabe
From my personal experience...make sure all your compartment door safety switches are intact. I apparently hit one of mine and broke a wire, and the slide would not move causing a couple of harried days🤣
Cevin Waffle
I looked at our 08 Diplomat and the headlight numbers for the right side (passenger) are TYC 20 6233 , VOR DOT SAE HR AI5PP300, hope this helps your search.
Ivan K
Aluminum wheels are being repaired on smaller vehicles (in the bead area) but I doubt you would find a professional shop willing to take liability for a big rig wheel repair given the loading (especially on those steers, flexing in turns) and pressures. Not only the safety on the road but also the installer's. I do understand the sentimental value but would rather check with a dismantler junk yard. Might be cheaper even if you find some shadetree place, it isnt hard but liability is a problem. I got a spare for $125.
Tom Cherry
1 hour ago, malcoll said:So...new M144s going on this morning...they found one hairline CRACK in each steer wheel. Each Crack starts at a stud hole and reaches out towards the outer edge... both are about 4 inches or so long but neither is through the thickness (cross section) of the wheel. Shop wouldn't mount tired on them ...so I bought two new Alcoa wheels for $275 each.
My question, can I get the original wheels repaired since these are D hole wheels and no longer available?
In a word NO. These cracks could propogate and then be a real safety issue. The tire shop appears to be reputable. You CAN try google searches for “big truck rim repairs”. Odds are NO. I have a background in Metallurgy as well as casting aluminum and zinc. I would NOT trust or try to have them welded and remachined and polished without having a certified testing lab do a complete Xray or other testing to identify the cause or source. Maybe they were over torqued? Maybe they were under torqued and they flexed and fatigued the metal? The list goes on.
If you want the original Accuride “Monaco D Hole” wheels, then find them at a salvage yard. You could call Accuride and maybe get more info. Then ask them “HOW, WHY, REPAIR?” I would also want a complete inspection, maybe even Magnafluxing or today’s higher tech equivalent, done to make sure that the used ones were sound.
jacwjames
The last time I had trouble with my slides it was also one of the inhibitor switches. From appearance it looked good.
I tried everything to get the slides to work. The controller kept blowing the fuse. I finally removed the wiring harness from the slide controller and check each wire to ground and found the one for the door switches was grounded out. Started checking and when I felt the back side of one of the inhibitor switches it fell apart in my hand. I carried a spare so I replaced it and that solved the problem.
Kenster
On 6/25/2024 at 7:31 AM, Verde_Windsor said:Good time of the day to you all.
Recently I have discovered that I leak boost thru intercooler.
(I skipping a lot in my story telling to save time. Trust me - it took some time and getting dirty to find out.)
Right now J.B. Weld doing great job keeping it tight.
My question is: Any references to as what in the 2002 Windsor? brand / name/ part #/ size ??? I did look up in parts catalog on the website - just references to rad. shops.
My educational guess while sitting on the couch is - to take it all apart and drive around searching who can make me one like this one - new. I will need to replace main radiator as well while im in there.
What your thoughts guys?
Greg.
Intercooler, after cooler, charge air cooler, they are all designed to do the same thing, cool the air after it leaves the turbo charger and before it enters the engine. Considering your coach has an air to air after cooler, if JB Weld his sealed the leak, leave it alone. If it starts to leak again, it's not going to leave you sitting on the side of the road and will get you home.
Can I ask, how you found the leak?
CutGrass91
1 minute ago, jacwjames said:The last time I had trouble with my slides it was also one of the inhibitor switches. From appearance it looked good.
I tried everything to get the slides to work. The controller kept blowing the fuse. I finally removed the wiring harness from the slide controller and check each wire to ground and found the one for the door switches was grounded out. Started checking and when I felt the back side of one of the inhibitor switches it fell apart in my hand. I carried a spare so I replaced it and that solved the problem.
Where would I find the inhibitor switch? I feel like my main issue is I just can't find my slide control board anywhere!
wamcneil
Just now, jacwjames said:What micron filter will you use:?
Whatever micron the FS1022 is that I normally use for the 2ndary filter. 10 micron? Planning to run the water sensor wire over to where the primary filter is presently located.
Whenever I need to change the original fass filters will probably change to the Cat filters that fit the fass.
Tom Cherry
1 hour ago, Kevin Clark said:Is this the correct one? It says pre-installed CCC2 control board:
2008 HR Scepter hydraulic slide
Tom CherryAS DID MINE. I reolaced mine with the Talin RV guardian plates. Mine never caused the total out of sync situation as described. Check the fluid level. Operate and purge any trapped air.
THEN start to dig deeper. This is the cause of 80% or more of the imbalance or out of syn conditions.
YES….inspect the underside and lube. BUT if the nylon strips are cracking snd such, order Talin Plates and fix properly….once and for all….you do NOT want to damage the underside or underlayment of the slide. It is part of a vacuum formed sandwich and repairs are difficult and very exoensive.
Preventing damage is the key…
Air Conditioning replacements help request
Kevin Clark7 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:For the record. Unless some SUPER SMART tech has “backwoods engineered” the installation, if you have the CCC2 or CCC II….Dometic in the installation refers to it as CCC2…so Amazon, as usual, may not understand.
You CAN NOT use an OLDER Model Penguin with a Newer Penguin CCC2 thermostat. Dometic states it this way. We can NOT provide a “retrofit control module” that will SMARTEN UP or make that original Penguin work with the NEW CCC2 electronics.
BUT, we can DUMB DOWN a new Penguin II by replacing the Control Module with a SPECIAL or interface control module.
The NEW Penguin II comes factory, as that is the ONLY CHOICE with a CCC2. A tech has to follow the instructions and disassemble the control section, make 1 or 2 wiring change (in the instructions) and then install the DUMB DOWN kit. Therefore then a Penguin II will work with the older 5 Button Thermostat.
NOW…never say never. YouTubers are a mixed breed. Some are really sharp and understand the electronics and mechanical aspecrs and some have “purportedly” got around what Dometic’s specific position and instructions are. Some also are not quite that sharp and have some ways, they say, and it is easy. One many other forums there are pages and pages, or were a few years ago, of I FIXED IT….and then if you read the followup, it is….I did exactly as you (or post says). Have the following issues and then pages of back and forth…usually I GIVE UP.
I really appreciate your help with this. So you’re saying if I order a brand new Penguin II that has CCC2 that it may not work with my existing Penguin? The brand new one would need dumbed down so they all work as a network like they’re supposed to?
how do I know what generation my current Dometic is?
2008 HR Scepter hydraulic slide
96 EVO2 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:AS DID MINE. I reolaced mine with the Talin RV guardian plates. Mine never caused the total out of sync situation as described.
I could see a chunk of that runner breaking off and getting wedged in there.
I also removed mine and installed Guardian plates.
2001 Monaco Windsor - Slides do not operate!
mdgabe29 minutes ago, CutGrass91 said:Where would I find the inhibitor switch? I feel like my main issue is I just can't find my slide control board anywhere!
My basement compartment doors have plunger type switches up in the corner. Keeps the slide from opening when the door is open. When I broke the wire, the slide thought the door was open and wouldn't work. No clicking, nothing, just wouldn't open until I fixed the broken wire...
Air Conditioning replacements help request
Tom CherryJust now, Kevin Clark said:I really appreciate your help with this. So you’re saying if I order a brand new Penguin II that has CCC2 that it may not work with my existing Penguin? The brand new one would need dumbed down so they all work as a network like they’re supposed to?
how do I know what generation my current Dometic is?
From the top. You need the model number and SN of the existing Penguin. Just “looking at it” will not work,
IF you have the 10 button CCC2 Thermostat, then that will ONLY work with the Penguin II which has a CCC2 Control board.
What I said….unless the installation was NON standard, that is the ONLY WAY that an older Penguin MIGHT, per Dometic Tech Suport and all the instructions, work with the new CCC2. Yes….this is confusing. But without factory model number and SN, it is futile. Folks HAVE done or tried tricky things. BUT, this was in the HVAC unit itself. The 10 button CCC2 thermostat will ONLY work with a “factory” CCC2 Board and that board will only work in a Penguin II.
Get the info. Call Dometic. They will give you the exact model you need. It WILL come with the CCC2 and will work with your 10 button.
Hope this clarifies….
Upgrade to electric patio awning
Tom Cherry2 hours ago, 96 EVO said:Carefree Eclipse should go over your slide.
Mine does!
Maybe I am WRONG. The Eclipse is a SLIDE MOUNTED awning. It is a scissors mechanism. It is NOT BOLTED or Attached to the roof.
NOW, on the Camelots…and also the Carefree website, the ROOF MOUNTED, which extends OVER and past the slide is an APEX. This is the OEM version. Carefree makes a “retail” unit. But, it is hard to figure our the name. It may be FREEDOM.
The APEX is a GIRARD Clone or knock off. It bolts to the roof. It extends out with two BIG arms….think your elbow. As the Apex extend, each side arm opens up….like yiur elbow would if put your fist or hand on your throat (Adam’s Apple) then extended your fist or arm straight out….your elbow straightens.
NOW a Girard or an Apex does NOT go exavtly horizontally….it drops a little. It will clear the extended slide by may 6 - 8”…. LOOKS LIKE IT WILL HIT….but doesn’t.
NOW…..practically speaking….i rarely use mine. You can’t secure it or tether it down. It took two different dealer, finally one that worked on Girards, to get it properly adjusted. It also is way more prone to UPLIFTS and wind damage. I camped with two guys that had new 2008 Navigators. They had side by side Girards, I think….a storm blew up quickly. Those two awnings looked like they were flapping up and down….they panicked and barely got them in. I can’t get as much shade from mine as I did with an ancient Winnie gasser that had a manual roll down/up awning with side arms.
Carefree will want to know the height of your extended slide….the length, as in how far the top edge is from the side wall and the width yoh want.
They can then tell you which model ROOF awning you want….
Start here….follow the links. Look at the APEX to understand how a Girard works…
Rust inside airbags
Pduggs3 hours ago, 96 EVO said:Is one of those two drains for your Valid leveling tank?
If so, I can't see how your aux compressor couldn't run more frequently than needed.
Yes. Valid. My manual says they are Rear Air Tank and Auxiliary Air Leveling tank drains
Carrier Air V
lake49068I had Veurinks (Grand Rapids, MI) do the complete job so don't know the details. They did take my credit card! They are an old time HR dealer but backing away from pushers since REV bought the brand. They do know their stuff.
Looking for Replacement Wet Bay City Water Line Hatch
DaKevsterHave a 2008 Holiday Rambler Ambassador 40PLQ. The city water line door latch tabs have broken, so the hatch won't stay closed and have found it's a favorite way for mice to get in. I've been googling for a replacement but haven't found one. It has a small sliding door just big enough for a hose-line. Anyone know its official name and where to get a replacement? Pictures attached.
Air Conditioning replacements help request
Kevin Clark27 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:From the top. You need the model number and SN of the existing Penguin. Just “looking at it” will not work,
IF you have the 10 button CCC2 Thermostat, then that will ONLY work with the Penguin II which has a CCC2 Control board.
What I said….unless the installation was NON standard, that is the ONLY WAY that an older Penguin MIGHT, per Dometic Tech Suport and all the instructions, work with the new CCC2. Yes….this is confusing. But without factory model number and SN, it is futile. Folks HAVE done or tried tricky things. BUT, this was in the HVAC unit itself. The 10 button CCC2 thermostat will ONLY work with a “factory” CCC2 Board and that board will only work in a Penguin II.
Get the info. Call Dometic. They will give you the exact model you need. It WILL come with the CCC2 and will work with your 10 button.
Hope this clarifies….
I’ll give them a call. Here is a photo of the “newer” AC that works. Product number 936002276 and SKU # 9105304190
Air Conditioning replacements help request
Tom Cherry10 minutes ago, Kevin Clark said:I’ll give them a call. Here is a photo of the “newer” AC that works. Product number 936002276 and SKU # 9105304190
that is all you need. You can probably google the PN and it will tell you. BUT, better to talk to Dometic.
Good Luck. This will work...
Looking for Replacement Wet Bay City Water Line Hatch
TW RacingMost marine / boat shops will have a replacement or Amazon .
Looking for Replacement Wet Bay City Water Line Hatch
ChargermanThese screw on ones are what are on my coach. I made a few of these clamshell covers out of 1/16” aluminum to keep the critters out when using them
Cracked Steer Wheels
malcollDefinitely good points.... I bought the new wheels... hard to tell the difference from front to rear other than the nice new finish on the fronts... but I could buy two more rear Alcoas so they match....but I have other projects to work on first...
Upgrade to electric patio awning
96 EVOI have a Carefree Eclipse, mounted to the roof, and sidewalls, that goes over my front passenger side slide.
It's 21' long, and my slide is only about 16'.
Carrier Air V
Tom Cherry3 hours ago, Rick Chambers said:My 2009 Diplomat 41pdq currently has Carrier Air V air conditioner units, they are original equipment. This unit also controls the propane furnace. The remote for the Carrier has an option for the furnace as well , so the system in the Carrier activates the furnace and the temperature sensor is in the Carrier Air V. The Carrier model is a 68RV0011KS. The Advent unit is a direct replacement for the Carrier according to etrailer so my question is , has anyone replaced with the Advent.
Adam H, thank you for your reply. I am curious how big of a project was it to run the 12v line through the wall and ceiling to the air conditioner and to the propane furnace?
WOW... That is NEWS. Sounds like....maybe there was a "Payables" issue with Dometic. DId NOT know that Carrier was used OEM...LEARN SOMETHING NEW.
One WORD... Running the 12 VDC line is NOT what is needed. All you need, assuming...and this is NOW a MYSTERY... WHAT SIGNAL DO YOU NEED.
We TYPICALLY know and are correct that the AquaHot's and the Furnaces used were DRY CONTACTS. Only two wires. The HVAC Controller would make the circuit...think WIRENUTTING the two wires. That was ALL or more correctly EXACTLY what the Atwoods and Aquahot's USE or NEED. NO 12 VDC. They DO NOT LIKE IT....to say the least.
NOW....if the Furnaces or Aquahot NEEDS a dry set of contacts...there are TWO ways...and Monaco was creative. They would put a 12 VDC relay in the Plenum... Then if (and that is a BIG IF) the Carrier was like MOST CARRIERS, then when the HEAT was needed...the Carrier Control Module sent out a 12 VDC signal (Positive and Ground). The simple fix. Add a RELAY. When the Carrier 12 VDC signal was made...the relay closed. THEN the NORMAL (as in how the Monaco Harnesses were made, TWO "BLUE" wires or the DRY leads...the relay was just like the Dometic signal. CLOSE A CIRCUIT. That would work.
DITTO if you did power the TWO wires that go from the plenum to the furnace. You could put the Relay at the furnace... All you need is a set of DRY contacts on a relay.
That's my logic. If anyone has info...please post this.
FASS Installation Question
cbr0461 hour ago, wamcneil said:Whatever micron the FS1022 is that I normally use for the 2ndary filter. 10 micron? Planning to run the water sensor wire over to where the primary filter is presently located.
Whenever I need to change the original fass filters will probably change to the Cat filters that fit the fass.
My primary filter clogged 3 years ago, probably because the coach had been sitting by the previous owner. I replaced it then 5 months later it clogged again when I ran out of fuel (not recommended). I literally replaced that filter in the turn lane of a road with trucks going by both sides. I installed the FASS system with a fuel pressure gauge shortly after that and haven't changed a filter since. 2.5 years and 25,000 miles later still on the same FASS filters with 15 psi under load. I do use Biobor JF, which is mainly for lubricity, but at the time I wasn't using anything.
FS1022 is a 10 um filter. FASS Installation Question
jacwjames8 minutes ago, cbr046 said:My primary filter clogged 3 years ago, probably because the coach had been sitting by the previous owner. I replaced it then 5 months later it clogged again when I ran out of fuel (not recommended). I literally replaced that filter in the turn lane of a road with trucks going by both sides. I installed the FASS system with a fuel pressure gauge shortly after that and haven't changed a filter since. 2.5 years and 25,000 miles later still on the same FASS filters with 15 psi under load. I do use Biobor JF, which is mainly for lubricity, but at the time I wasn't using anything.
FS1022 is a 10 um filter. Upgrade to electric patio awning
Tom Cherry19 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:I have a Carefree Eclipse, mounted to the roof, and sidewalls, that goes over my front passenger side slide.
It's 21' long, and my slide is only about 16'.
Ben,
Maybe you are calling something different. The ECLIPSE is a WALL MOUNTED Awning...or at least that is what Carefree calls it. The Apex is the roof.
Here are TWO photos of the Apex Awning. One extended and the other retracted.
In your 2008 Sales Brochure, the text said PATIO awning. Monaco said ECLIPSE. Then in 2009, the Septer's brochure was updated with ECLIPSE.
Exactly WHICH do you have...the ROOF mount or the SIDEWALL (with Tracks) mount. IF ROOF, it APEX. Sidewall is Eclipse.
see the attached.
2008 Camelot Sales brochure.pdf 2009 Scepter Awning Brochure.pdf
Rust inside airbags
Tom Cherry20 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:And your aux compressor is operational? Fuse isn't pulled or something?
The two drains are the REAR and the AUXILLARY. There are also TWO Drains and a "BLOW 'ER UP" fitting up front. This is a Dynasty. His compressor is in the rear. Ours is in the front. We only have TWO up there. We don't have a plumbed line from the AUX....it is, at least on MINE, on the bottom of the tank.
Two TOTALLY different air systems.
The fact that he has BUBBLES on BOTH Rear valves shows that the Aux Compressor is working...
Hope this helps.
Cracked Steer Wheels
Tom Cherry33 minutes ago, malcoll said:Definitely good points.... I bought the new wheels... hard to tell the difference from front to rear other than the nice new finish on the fronts... but I could buy two more rear Alcoas so they match....but I have other projects to work on first...
YES... SHINY. One could polish or have a detailer polish them. FWIW. The REAR D Holes ARE a good feature...totally wasted on the front. Many folks have REMOVED the idiotic SS hose fitting and put their TPMS sensors on each valve stem to prevent leaks. I have the ACCURIDE...but in 2009, they were ROUND... BUT, with the D, the opening is wide enough, assuming your hands and digits are OK to sort of contort...so you CAN screw on the TPMS on the REARS. I would KILL for being able to do that. I had to had LONG special made extensions (BORG Design).
Just a tidbit. TRIVIA....at its finest...
FASS Installation Question
cbr04617 minutes ago, jacwjames said:Now I wonder if a CAT filter will bypass if it gets plugged up????????
If it does bypass he'll be changing injectors.
- b
Rust inside airbags
PduggsNo. I replaced the compressor last year, as the original was toast. It seldom runs and the coach stays level. It seems weird considering the air that appears to be leaking from the pics I attached. If you put your hand in front of the drain you can’t feel any air escaping. I reset them as Frank suggested.
17 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:The two drains are the REAR and the AUXILLARY. There are also TWO Drains and a "BLOW 'ER UP" fitting up front. This is a Dynasty. His compressor is in the rear. Ours is in the front. We only have TWO up there. We don't have a plumbed line from the AUX....it is, at least on MINE, on the bottom of the tank.
Two TOTALLY different air systems.
The fact that he has BUBBLES on BOTH Rear valves shows that the Aux Compressor is working...
Hope this helps.
My compressor is mounted behind the front axle.
Rust inside airbags
96 EVO17 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:
The fact that he has BUBBLES on BOTH Rear valves shows that the Aux Compressor is working...
Hope this helps.
Not necessarily!
His aux tank will receive air from the rear chassis air tank, until the PPV shuts it down!
Sensor Locations
hex_nutKeith
The Aladdin sensors for the gray and black tanks are installed in the lowest points of the tanks. Mine are right beside the drain holes for the slide valves in the wet bay. I have to remove the stainless steel covers to have access and they are quite a ways back there, but I have replaced them without too much difficulty. My fresh water sensor is right in the center of the tank with the bung installed as low on the side of the tank as possible. I have to remove a small access panel in the next bay to get to it. I have replaced all of mine over the years and have found that the black tank sensor lasts a couple of years, the gray tank sensor about 4 years and the fresh water sensor 8 to 10 years. Their longevity is directly related to contamination. I will likely NOT replace them again as the price of new sensors has gotten exorbitant. The next time they fail, I will likely replace the entire system with the Seelevel system.
Richard
FASS Installation Question
wamcneil1 hour ago, cbr046 said:...Why would you switch to CAT filters?
- bob
I'm not convinced that FASS has any proprietary filtration technology, let alone filtration technology that is so advanced it will disrupt the market and make these guys the Tesla of diesel filtration. 😶
FASS's secondary filter has water absorption media which will plug once it has absorbed a certain amount of water and stop the engine. Everybody else in the industry like fleetguard, cat, baldwin, whatever has decided that the best approach is to use water separation media to block the water and let it pool in the bottom of the filter.
So, my plan is to switch to conventional filters and keep the original FS1022 filter with water sensor as a backup to warn me that there is water in the fuel. Plus the cat filters are a lot physically bigger and presumably have a more media. I've kept biobor in the tank for the last 5-years or so and eventually cleaned up the tank to the point where my filters are pretty clean when I do the annual change. Hopefully it'll be a while before I'm motivated to change the filters...
1 hour ago, jacwjames said:Scary
On IRV2 forum there was a post on the FASS system, one poster said he didn't install a filter after the FASS system, no need with 2 micron filter AND that there is no bypass in the filter. I questioned that be the OP insisted so I got on line and found several FASS videos saying the same thing.
So if you have a problem the first sign will be the lower fuel pressure and if it gets bad enough the engine may die with the only option to change the filter.
Now I wonder if a CAT filter will bypass if it gets plugged up????????
I'm pretty confident that there are no fuel filters that will bypass when plugged. That would be horrible. The cat filters can definitely plug with slime and gook, but it won't plug with water.
I would agree that there is certainly no "need" for another filter after the fass. I'm paying HUNDREDS of $$$ for the finest diesel filtration system on the planet. It dang-well-better-not require yet another filter after the filter. Part of me wants to just take all of the other filters out and run straight FASS to CAPS. But the filter housing is already there and it's a convenient way to add a pressure gauge and keep the water sensor.
Rust inside airbags
Frank McElroy20 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:Not necessarily!
His aux tank will receive air from the rear chassis air tank, until the PPV shuts it down!
Ben - that is correct.
Ran Out Of Fuel - Now What
Steve ShunkWell, I think I managed to run the ISM 500 on my 2005 Signature dry. This morning it started up just fine and I pulled over to an area to connect my jeep. The area was quite tilted and I just let the engine idle while I hooked up the jeep. Then the engine just sputtered to a stop. I figured all the fuel ran to one side and was not getting sucked into the engine so I put ten gallons in and it still will not fire. Assuming it really did just run dry, what can I do to get it running again? Thanks in advance.
Ran Out Of Fuel - Now What
Dr4FilmYou need to make multiple trips to the fuel station for diesel to get enough diesel into the tank for the pickup tube to suck up the fuel to start the engine. Or have a fuel delivery truck come to you to fill up the tank.
Then you will need to cycle the engine fuel lift pump multiple times to get the air out of the delivery lines.
Once the engine starts you may have to restart it multiple times before it gets back to normal.
Important lesson, never let your tank go lower than half before looking for a fuel station to fill up.
Ran Out Of Fuel - Now What
timaz996See if your generator will start and run on a load for 10 minutes anyway to make sure that the pick up tube for the generator is in the fuel. If it does that. Follow what Richard said and keep cycling your lift pump. With the 500 Cummings I’m not sure if your lift pump runs constant or shut off like my lift pump used to do before I put in a FASS set up on my rig.
Ran Out Of Fuel - Now What
BenjaminHow much do you think was in the tank? I wouldn't be surprised if it took way more than ten gallons to reach the pickup. Try another ten, then cycle the key for thirty seconds and turn to start for a few seconds, then off and back to on for thirty seconds and a few seconds of cranking. This cycling might not be needed on an X, if you can hear the fuel pump continue to run after 30 seconds then you can cycle it for a minute and then a few seconds cranking.
Unfortunately, it seems Richard is right, the bottom quarter at least of the tank is not usable on most RV's without risking this happening. Seems like a waste to me, an extra 250-500 pounds of weight that is useless, when trucks and other vehicles have tanks that work.
Air Conditioning replacements help request
Kevin ClarkVery thankful to everyone for their help! After ALL that I discovered a relay in the EMS that was intermittently bad causing AC power issues to the front AC compounding all my issues. Bypassed that relay and surprise surprise the AC works.
Does anyone know if that relay is replaceable? Or is it soldered in? Any harm in just leaving it bypassed?
Cracked Steer Wheels
BenjaminThat's not a typical crack location from fatigue or overloading, maybe torque issues. Are you sure they're cracks, not just rust or grease tracks? If in doubt, spray with penetrating oil, wipe clean, then dust and a crack should grab the dust.
Air Conditioning replacements help request
Dr4FilmIf that is the small relay on the Intellitec EMS Load Shedding Board, just bypass it for now. The relay is not replaceable UNLESS you have all of the tools to replace devices on circuit boards without destroying the board. Otherwise, you have to replace the entire board.
Coolant Temp and Radiator Fan Speed
VenturerI'm trying to understand the thermovalve function. As the water temp increases, the wax begins to melt slowly closing the valve. My OM says it is completely closed at 199 degrees. My question is, does the fan gradually increase in speed as the wax is closing the valve, or does the fan shift to high speed when the switching valve recognizes the closed thermovalve?
Rust inside airbags
PduggsI can hear my compressor running, but it generally only runs 2-3 times per day. I’ll do the air brake safety check Frank mentioned. I did it six months ago and no problems noted.
Is there something I should be concerned about or further checking?
Ran Out Of Fuel - Now What
BradHendThe engine supply isn’t stemmed at 1/4 tank, just the genny. So you don’t run out of fuel to drive. Am I missing something here?
Ran Out Of Fuel - Now What
jacwjames10 gallons probably won't add 1" of fuel to the tank. So if you are really leaning it will take much more to get it up above the fuel pick up.
Once you add fuel you might want to pull the fuel filters and fill them with clean fuel (plug the center hole). Then cycle the key a half a dozen times. Hopefully you'll get it running.
I know my generator runs out of fuel at 28 gallons left in the tank. My wife had someone pull fuel out of her tank on a trip she is currently on. She had to pump 112 gallons of fuel to fill it up based on Silverleaf she still had 65 gallons in the tank. Lucky she didn't run out of fuel.
Cracked Steer Wheels
malcollThey are definitely cracks.. but they look superficial to me.... they cannot be seen on the backside at all, but regardless the Tire Shop refused to mount new tires on them.
Ran Out Of Fuel - Now What
BenjaminIf the generator keeps running, then you know you have enough fuel to run the engine. Higher fuel level makes it easier for the pump to suck the fuel up to engine level.
I would not open the filters, they should still be full except the top. They won't suck the fuel out of the bottom of the filter, only as low as the threaded nipple, so 1/2" or so.
Rust inside airbags
96 EVO15 minutes ago, Pduggs said:I can hear my compressor running, but it generally only runs 2-3 times per day.
Got it!
See, that's lot's to me, and that leaky drain valve could account for most of that!
Mine is sealed up as tight as a duck's behind now, and practically never hear mine run now.
Rooftop AC troubleshooting
4rickygThank you and yes it is the penguin low profile. I believe all three a c's were replaced about nine years ago when I bought the coach. They have the new version thermostats. Fan is set to auto. I will try replacing the capacitor maybe I will get lucky..
This is what I referred to as newer style thermostat. I removed the capacitor, took it to Grainger supply. They tested it and said it was definitely bad. They didn't have a replacement. Found some on Amazon. Looks like Dometic $60 and a after market $20. Think I will go with the Dometic. Will give results when I install it. Thanks for help.
Rust inside airbags
PduggsJust now, 96 EVO said:Got it!
See, that's lot's to me, and that leaky drain valve could account for most of that!
Mine is sealed up as tight as a duck's behind now, and practically never hear mine run now.
Do you think I should replace the valves?
Rust inside airbags
96 EVOWell, I would exercise them a few times, and spray them again.
If they are still leaking the same, 'I' would replace them, but I'm a little anal about air leaks, and don't like my noisy (original) aux compressor waking myself, and the rest of the park, up!
My airbags will hold air forever, so if my aux compressor was running 2-3 times a day just to keep the little leveling tank above 90psi, and I couldn't solve it, I'd go back to pulling the fuse after setup!
Ran Out Of Fuel - Now What
Steve ShunkThanks to all for the suggestions. As somebody pointed out with the generator, I ran the generator last night for about fifteen minutes. It started right up and never starved for fuel. So I figured I had at least 1/4 tank of fuel left since that's what the manual says. After adding about twelve gallons of fuel and priming for a good fifteen minutes I got it to fire up. So for whatever reason, my generator dip tube depth seems to not be correct.
Cracked Steer Wheels
Frank McElroy5 hours ago, malcoll said:So...new M144s going on this morning...they found one hairline CRACK in each steer wheel. Each Crack starts at a stud hole and reaches out towards the outer edge... both are about 4 inches or so long but neither is through the thickness (cross section) of the wheel. Shop wouldn't mount tired on them ...so I bought two new Alcoa wheels for $275 each.
My question, can I get the original wheels repaired since these are D hole wheels and no longer available?
Most likely, this happened because the flange nuts were under torqued. When mounting these tires, if reusing the old flange nuts, it's important to put a couple of drops of oil between the flange and nut so they turn freely. It's also a good practice to temporarily use a couple of sleeved flange nuts to be sure that the wheel studs are centered in the hole and that the stud threads aren't touching the wheel stud hole openings. Once the other wheel flange nuts are tight, the sleeved flange nuts are removed and replaced with the normal flange nuts. A tire shop who knows what they are doing will follow this procedure.
When removing and remounting a wheel, one other Item is that, after a few hundred miles, wheel nut torque needs to be rechecked - most folks don't know to do this. In practice, I never found any that were under torqued but there is always a first time.
Coolant Temp and Radiator Fan Speed
VenturerThanks Jim. That's what I suspected. Before I saw your response, I spoke to Scott Zimmer at Source Engineering and he confirmed that the fan motor ramps up as the thermovalve closes. He also said the 40# turbo boost would double the heat generated which could explain my temperature increase. I'll just have to watch things more closely in the mountains next week.
Ran Out Of Fuel - Now What
Dr4FilmThey never are correct. You just have to run the generator until it runs out of fuel and won't run any longer. Then go fuel up to see how many gallons it takes to fill the tank. You will then know approximately where the pickup tube is in relation to the number of gallons if fuel.
My previous Windsor had both the fuel pickups for the generator and the Aqua-Hot at the same depth. They would both stop after using about 80 gallons. The Cummins ISC-350 would shut down after about 100 gallons of diesel were used. That left 28 gallons of useless fuel in the tank.
Ran Out Of Fuel - Now What
Frank McElroy2 hours ago, Steve Shunk said:Well, I think I managed to run the ISM 500 on my 2005 Signature dry. This morning it started up just fine and I pulled over to an area to connect my jeep. The area was quite tilted and I just let the engine idle while I hooked up the jeep. Then the engine just sputtered to a stop. I figured all the fuel ran to one side and was not getting sucked into the engine so I put ten gallons in and it still will not fire. Assuming it really did just run dry, what can I do to get it running again? Thanks in advance.
You mentioned that you were quite tilted. By any chance, were you tilted to the DS? I believe fuel pickup is on the PS. So, if you tilted far to the PS, and prefilled the fuel filters - you likely would have been able to restart without adding fuel to the tank.
FASS Installation Question
tmw188Something to consider especially if you are installing the pump up front near the fuel tank. There is a lot of fuel line running from the front to the back and in some cases probably very old. I don’t know if they deteriorate on the inside but another filter just before the CAPS might be good insurance. I don’t know however if having three filters is too much back pressure? I plan on replacing the fuel lines at some point coming from the old Lift Pump to the OE filters.
FASS Installation Question
wamcneilI am a little concerned about possible degradation in the hoses. Planning to purge the final hose to CAPS with solvent and compressed air and see if I can get anything black or brown to come out of it.
Ran Out Of Fuel - Now What
tmw18845 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:The Cummins ISC-350 would shut down after about 100 gallons of diesel were used. That left 38 gallons of useless fuel in the tank.
Richard did you mean 28 gal, or did you have a larger tank because of the Aqua Hot?
Ran Out Of Fuel - Now What
Dr4Film3 minutes ago, tmw188 said:Richard did you mean 28 gal, or did you have a larger tank because of the Aqua Hot?
Yes, my mistake, I have corrected that error in my post.
Thank you for pointing that out.
FASS Installation Question
tmw18810 minutes ago, wamcneil said:I am a little concerned about possible degradation in the hoses. Planning to purge the final hose to CAPS with solvent and compressed air and see if I can get anything black or brown to come out of it.
Yeah report back on that please.
2001 Monaco Windsor - Slides do not operate!
CutGrass915 hours ago, mdgabe said:My basement compartment doors have plunger type switches up in the corner. Keeps the slide from opening when the door is open. When I broke the wire, the slide thought the door was open and wouldn't work. No clicking, nothing, just wouldn't open until I fixed the broken wire...
Possibly, I'll have to check all the switches but they all seem to be fine at first glance. I'll take a multimeter to them when I get home and ensure they're functional.
Looking for Replacement Wet Bay City Water Line Hatch
Paul J AAnother option.
White-Rogers 586-105111
VinceBSome months back I installed a new White-Rogers 586-105111 because my house batteries were not charging while driving. I was very careful to take pix and reinstall the wires exactly as I found them. Everything appears to be working correctly or I haven't noticed something.
While topping off the batteries today, I saw this as pictured below. It looks like the unit fried.
I took a volt meter (engine off) and found 12v between B&C , B&A, D&C, and D&A
A is house battery + and C is chassis battery +
I found continuity between B&D, B&GROUND, and D&GROUND and A&C
My concern is what looks like a spark occurred or the coil fried itself AND that the red wire from D and the black wire from B both go to the electrical unit I have labeled E.
I'm no electrical whiz and am wondering if this is normal. I thought that when B&D had 12v the coil would connect A and C and energize E. But if both wires going to E are ground...??
What am I missing?
If you need more pix or more probing with the multi-meter, the coach is in my driveway and easy to get to.
UPDATE CARB (California Air Resource Board) as applies to Motorhome
VinceBIt appears that CARB is getting their act together. I received this in todays' mail.
Carrier Air V
Rick ChambersTom,
So so if I buy an a/c unit that requires a wire to go from the a/c to the a wall thermostat, what is the voltage if not 12 volt?
2001 Monaco Windsor - Slides do not operate!
jacwjames1 hour ago, CutGrass91 said:Possibly, I'll have to check all the switches but they all seem to be fine at first glance. I'll take a multimeter to them when I get home and ensure they're functional.
You can jump each one out and if the slide works that's your problem.
2001 Monaco Windsor - Slides do not operate!
CutGrass91Just now, jacwjames said:You can jump each one out and if the slide works that's your problem.
Maybe a stupid question but do you guys make your own jumpers or by them somewhere?
Cracked Steer Wheels
96 EVOFriend of mine recently bought a '05 Monaco gasser (can't recall the model), that came with coated Alcoa's.
Ours came with uncoated Accurides!
Monaco made some strange decisions!
2001 Monaco Windsor - Slides do not operate!
Ivan KIf these switches have flat spade connectors, jump them with a flat automotive fuse, like in your spares.
White-Rogers 586-105111
Tom CherryOK... The COIL, I think, inside the White Rodgers got FRIED. AND it appears to be shorted. Basically here is what you said and what the Terminals. ARE. THIS IS GONNA BE LONG....because I don't have the circuit and don't know the wiring.
..BUT....after I WROTE the BULK OF IT... ONE or BOTH of the items is TOAST.
The White Rodgers relay is $69. The IRD is $82. That is $151. This is ANCIENT technology. The Blue Seas ML-ACR is what most are using. It is $205. DON'T mess with this...
Install a Blue Seas ML-ACR. You need to READ about that. The ONLY thing you will need to do is to run another WIRE from here to the Cabin. You SWAP out the BOOST switch and install the one provided. You HAVE to be able to read the prints and then install it. That is MY BEST advice...
I think I KNOW...how it is wired and I have included a marked diagram. BUT...at the end of the day... If you install the Blue Seas...you have a FULL BIRD. When you drive...the HOUSE is charged. When you are PARKED and on AC (or Genny), the CHASSIS is charged. I THINK there are some HOW to in the FILES.
Use the Search. PUT IN BLUE SEAS or ML-ACR. Then click on Everywhere. Select TOPICS. SEARCH. All you ever wanted to know is now there..
Do the search again. This time select FILES. If there is a HOW TO or how I did it...you have that.
OK....THAT's the BOTTOM LINE...but POSTED here. You DO need to pay attention and follow this. You also need to look at the print that I marked up. THAT is what, based on following your photos and your narrative...you have.
Read on about your issue...
A and C are the cables to the HOUSE and CHASSIS. Don't know WHICH...but that is the LARGE STUDS
B & D are the COIL on the White Rogers. That has to be 12 VDC to work.
B would appear to be GROUND... Therefore, you WOULD have Voltage from either of the Battery (Stud). NORMAL...assuming THAT if you DISCONNECTED the B wire...it has continuity to GROUND. One SIDE or terminal of the Relay MUST be GROUNDED.
NOW, since you ALSO have a GROUND on D, then that is the mystery.
Label each cable and lead. NOW...remove the Solenoid.
You obviously WILL have voltage to GROUND on A and C.
Then Test the OTHER WIRES. If B is GROUND....then we are making progress...if the coil is blown up (nice term), then the coil windings COULD BE SHORTED to the metal bracket...
BUT...here is what we NEED...
What are the small wires...
On C...where does it GO? What do the PRINTS Show.
B or D has to be a ground. Need to KNOW which side of the COIL (B or D) has the GROUND side. If B is the GROUND...then where does the wires on D go.
NOW, the wires on D could also be a GROUND.
WITHOUT knowing how they test and where they GO...NO WAY to keep troubleshooting.
NOW... without the FULL Intellitec Part Number...which looks someone used the label for target practice...that is difficult.
Intellitec IRD and White Rodgers Wiring diagram...SUPPOSEDLY.pdf
Cracked Steer Wheels
Frank McElroy5 minutes ago, malcoll said:So what is the torque value on these lugnuts?
500 ft lbs
Good shops will have a calibrated torque wrench.
I carry one on my coach.
Looking for Replacement Wet Bay City Water Line Hatch
jacwjamesLooking for Replacement Wet Bay City Water Line Hatch
DaKevster23 minutes ago, jacwjames said:Carrier Air V
Tom Cherry1 hour ago, Rick Chambers said:Tom,
So so if I buy an a/c unit that requires a wire to go from the a/c to the a wall thermostat, what is the voltage if not 12 volt?
NO VOLTAGE. The two wires from EITHER the Furnace (Atwood) or Aquahot are the SAME. You do NOT feed nor send voltage of any SHAPE, form, or fashion.
The Dometic Thermostat only “tells” the control unit that it needs HEAT. So, all the control unit does…it is like a FLIPPING on a light switch. All the control module does is connect or make a circuit between the two wires. There is NO VOLTAGE needed. The Atwood and Aquahot does NOT NEED nor will it work with ANY voltage carrying wires.
That is misunderstood and the failures of using a different system are based on that.
You could run the two wires from the AquaHot or the Atwood into the Motor Home. Put a common “light switch” on the wall. You want heat,,,,turn on the switch…like you do for light. Too hot….turn OFF the switch. The “troubleshooting method” for testing the furnace or a zone on the Aquahot…. Take a bent paper clip. Jumper the two screw terminals. It COMES ON (or there is a problem with the unit).
Thanks for letting that be explained again….it does confuse folks that don’t fully understand how they work and then don’t keep the Dometic Control Module and the Thermostat circuit intact.
Hope this helps and clarifies it…
Cracked Steer Wheels
Tom Cherry1 hour ago, Frank McElroy said:500 ft lbs
Good shops will have a calibrated torque wrench.
I carry one on my coach.
AND….it is recommended that after say 50 miles, the torque, with a calibrated torque wrench, be checked as well as retorqued. MOST (or maybe not) tire installers just “HIT the trigger again”. NOW, if the torque wrench is set way high…then maybe the torque is up to 600 Ft Lbs. Overtorquing will or can DAMAGE the wheels. The impact guns should be set to around 450 or so Ft Lbs…then you properly torque, to 500 Ft Lbs…. You do NOT KEEP pushing the torque wrench…STOP at 500.
MORE IS NOT BETTER!
Ran Out Of Fuel - Now What
cbr046If it happens again, or anyone else, use your jacks to tilt the coach level or slightly the other side. Get the engine started (multiple cycles of key), raise the jacks and get the coach level as quickly as reasonable (safety first).
- bob
White-Rogers 586-105111
cbr046If you look at the HD cables on the White-Rodgers device it's clear they're designed for HEAVY amounts of current, not charging currents. This is the relay that energizes when the BOOST switch is pushed (don't use the starter but allow the coach batt to charge the chassis batt if dead). While a BIRD or Blue-Seas device will allow those cables to charge coach batts while driving I believe the relay in the front run bay is what charges while driving. That's what I have in my sister ship 2003 Endeavor.
When I first started driving our coach the coach batts didn't charge while driving. Then magically I noticed they started charging. Maybe the relay needed to be exercised a few dozen time. If the coach batts are down to 60% or so it takes a few hours of driving to get them to 100%, but they do it reliably now.
As I said above, in the front run bay on the circuit board there's a stout relay with coach voltage on one side and chassis voltage on the other. This smaller relay, IN MY OPINION, is the one that connects coach and chassis together to charge the coach side from the alternator.
Disclaimer - I'm not an engineer, but I did play one on tv once.
- bob
Ran Out Of Fuel - Now What
Ivan KIt may be worth mentioning in this case that ISM engine does not have a lift pump to run with the key on cycle. If the original standalone priming pump, Racor or similar, has not been removed, this is the way to prime the system.
Ran Out Of Fuel - Now What
Jdw12345FWIW, being in the trucking business all my life, one reason manufacturers don’t put the pickup tubes to the bottom of the tank is to avoid sucking all of the crap in the fuel tank into you filters, if your fuel gets contaminated with water you can remove the drain plug from the bottom of the tank and drain all of the crap out, along with additional strength the bottom of my tank has a low area for drainage, that’s all I can think of for this reason.
JMO.
New Downloads
2008 Knight Wiring diagrams
Steve P
PDF files in color totalling 64 pages from Rev Co depicting house and chassis wiring... priceless!
2012 Dynasty Wiring Diagrams
Frank McElroy
Although this is not a complete set of wiring diagrams, it's what we have so far. If anyone has any other 2012 Dynasty wiring diagrams, please send them to me so I can add them to this file.
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