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Here's what the Monacoers have been talking about:
Index
Discussions
Superpro14
when they installed my new Goodyears, they put tire Beads in both front tires, there is also Centramatic Balancers , I still have an balance issue, I am considering taking the Centramatic's off and trying the tires with just the beads as the place I conyacted says the Beads and the Centramats's are working against each other, was thinking or removing both and spin balancing the tires or should I remove the Beads and just use the Centramatic's? Thanks
Rgoodman
I just finished my install. I put my pump by the tank. Left original filters in place and bypassed the lift pump (it was very easy) and wired in a relay to trick ecm. For my return, I was going to put a T in the vent like many states above but my pump came with a fitting that went inline at my tank on the Capps pump fuel return and had a nipple for the FASS supplied fuel line to hook to. Very simple. To answer the lift pump question- I did ALOT of reading and read that you DO NOT want to put pressure to the lift pump. I can’t confirm for sure the reason so I won’t say why you should not leave it. With 5 fittings from Amazon it’s a quick job to bypass
lake49068
All the replies so far are from owners with the newer roof line that may not mirror Rgoodman's 2003 coach roof line. A big change was made sometime post 2003 (I think) from the older body style like my long gone 1998 Endeavor. Monaco/HR "raised the roof" sometime during this period that may impact awning selection and installation.
Dr4Film
Obviously, the tire shop you had gone does not have the expertise or knowledge on how to properly balance tires. I would choose a more reputable tire shop for the future.
Remove the beads and just use the Centramatic's. Not sure why they decided to install both unless they were told to do it.
I started with ceramic beads then slowly switched to Balance Masters. Both due a good job but the Balance Masters will last forever whereas the beads will not. Plus the Balance Masters are easier to deal with than the beads.
Bottom-line, it's your choice. The decision is up to you.
Dr4Film
9 hours ago, Ivan K said:It may be worth mentioning in this case that ISM engine does not have a lift pump to run with the key on cycle. If the original standalone priming pump, Racor or similar, has not been removed, this is the way to prime the system.
Where on the ISM engine is this "standalone" priming pump located?
Dr4Film
I made up jumpers for every door that had a plunger type switch. I was tired of having temporary problems with those switches.
Of course, you have to be cognizant of NOT moving the slide with one of those bay doors under the slide adjusted to WIDE OPEN.
My guess is that those three relays control your two slides. One of the three relays is your ignition lockout relay.
Ivan K
In my case the pump is above the hitch area and works great for me when changing filters.
Centramatic Balancers VS Tire Beads
Tom Cherry
2 hours ago, Superpro14 said:when they installed my new Goodyears, they put tire Beads in both front tires, there is also Centramatic Balancers , I still have an balance issue, I am considering taking the Centramatic's off and trying the tires with just the beads as the place I conyacted says the Beads and the Centramats's are working against each other, was thinking or removing both and spin balancing the tires or should I remove the Beads and just use the Centramatic's? Thanks
DO NOT USE BOTH. They are fighting each other. MOST tire shops are using the cheap, NON CERAMIC beads. HIGH Profit. These beads will eventually self destruct. People report they look like “saccharine” after a few years. The ONLY beads that work are the Ceramics…. DYNA was or IS the gold standard….here and universally on other forums.
If you run TPMS, be prepared for the sensors to become “flaky”….the sensors get plugged up….Dyna is ceramic and big enough NOT to mess up a sensor. Folks here, for 15 years have a WORLD of experience…. Many are switching to the DISKS…and abandoning DYNA BEADS.
I would complain…make them pull off the tires. Refund the cost of the beads. Wash and dry the inside of the tires. Remount. If they refused….call the credit card company. Dispute the charge. They messed up….greed or stupid or BOTH.
Jean G
Can anyone tell me where the switch is for that ventilation fan? I can't find one anywhere. I had my Dynasty in the shop for 6 months, and when I got it back the fan is on and I'd like to turn it off. It was never on before.
Thank you!
Dr4Film
Would a 2000 ISM Cummins engine be the same as his 2005 ISM Cummins engine?
Tom Cherry
42 minutes ago, lake49068 said:All the replies so far are from owners with the newer roof line that may not mirror Rgoodman's 2003 coach roof line. A big change was made sometime post 2003 (I think) from the older body style like my long gone 1998 Endeavor. Monaco/HR "raised the roof" sometime during this period that may impact awning selection and installation.
Good point. The discussion was the “model” and that was in error and has been clarifed as well as they type. The ORIGINAL discussion was “electric”….presumably, but maybe INCORRECTLY” as wanting a roof mounted awning.
SO…that is cleared up.
YES…., things change. So….to cover the bases and provide more information….
The Eclipse is mounted on the sidewall, Monaco BLEW IT. We have had more….”Eclipse don’t work” topics than I can count. Issues with the awning and the electronics and also a major revision by Carefree….to fix a shoddy control module and other things.
BUT…Monaco was even more “DUMB”. The most common complain….it moves slow…it binds…it…whatever. Many well versed (electrically) members all reached the same conclusion. Monaco UNDERSIZED the wiring to the motor. One additional size would have been needed. BUT the harness for that is EMBEDDED inside the sidewall. Short of using a nibbler tool and cutting a gash up the entire sidewall….no one has come up with a fix, folks replaced controllers and motors. NOW, that is a bit of a blanket….so specifically…. The Camelots and Scepters with the larger Eclipse sidewall mounted (on the slide) awnings have been less than reliable.
I THINK this was also used on other models and such….it stands to reason, like the bigger slide on them, wider and more awning….bigger motor needed….more chance of binding.
SO, your point is well taken….the APEX or other Girard ON THE ROOF awnings use 120 VC. No issues with voltage. But they are bigger and more prone to needing periodic adjustments and I THINK.l.more susceptible to damage. A Camelot owner (2009) had to replace both arms. The insurance paid for it as “wind damage”. Over $3,500 and that was 13 years ago…
Hope this provides more information as was requested. NEVER order or retrofit a device (like an awning) without contacting the manufacturer.
Now HOW you get power from the MH, NOT wired or having power INSIDE the Sidewall for a wall mounted Eclipse…. haven’t a clue….ask Carefree or an authorized and reputable Carefree dealer/installer.
Ivan K
3 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:Would a 2000 ISM Cummins engine be the same as his 2005 ISM Cummins engine?
Steve would have to confirm but outside of EGR I would expect it the same in 05. The pump could be a different version but same principle. ISM does not need a lift pump or Fass unless wanted for polishing the fuel.
wamcneil
2 hours ago, Rgoodman said:... I did ALOT of reading and read that you DO NOT want to put pressure to the lift pump. I can’t confirm for sure the reason so I won’t say why you should not leave it...
If there are good reasons, I'd sure like to understand them. The lift pump appears to be a vane pump, and I can't imagine why that pump would care about having a relatively small (<20psi) pressure applied to its inlet fitting. So far, the only reason I can come up with is a high probability of the lift pump gasket leaking, which is the whole reason I was motivated to install a fass in the first place. So while I do plan to bypass the lift pump and one filter in the near future, I'm not concerned about harm that might result from running like this indefinitely.
If the lift pump is leaking, then obviously it needs to be bypassed. But as far as I can tell, the lift pump and CAPS system shouldn't object to being fed fuel at 15psi rather than pulling against some small negative pressure.
If one were to install a fuel pump up by the tank, and make NO other changes to the system, what harm would that do? Assuming I'm not leaving a trail of diesel...
96 EVO
2 hours ago, lake49068 said:All the replies so far are from owners with the newer roof line that may not mirror Rgoodman's 2003 coach roof line. A big change was made sometime post 2003 (I think) from the older body style like my long gone 1998 Endeavor. Monaco/HR "raised the roof" sometime during this period that may impact awning selection and installation.
True enough, they did increase roof height about '06, but I think they increased the height of the slides at the same time.
I haven't measured, but my slide roof is only a couple of inches from the belt line!
jacwjames
When I installed my FASS system I got advice from VanWill and he told me when he installed his he contacted Cummins and their only recommendation was not to use the original return line from the engine if the FASS pump was mounted at the rear of the coach. My guess is they were concerned with the additional flow/pressure and that it might cause a problem with the sensors in the CAPS pump.
I have had an occasional CEL the first time it threw a 94-10 code which had to do with erratic fuel pressure, at the time I was fueling up and left the engine running, I'm guessing I might have put air into the system. The second time I got a 94-2 code which was fuel pressure sensor. I believe it might have been caused by a bad connection at the harness.
wamcneil
Hi all,
As I contemplate adding a fuel pressure gauge in the dash of this 2003 Dynasty, I'm investigating two unused wiring pigtails that have been staring me in the face every time I look at the engine. These were both bundled and zip-tied just beside the driver-side run-box and appear to be part of the factory harness.
These are both on the driver side of the engine compartment, and run into the harness along the left side of the engine cradle and both appear to run forward.
One is a looped pair of white and black 12ga wires, and the other is 10ga red and black with 12ga yellow and black.
The two plugs in the picture don't appear to be related to these pigtails, and neither plug is numbered unfortunately.
So, I was hoping to find some tribal knowledge about these before brute-force tracing them.
If anybody knows what the connector numbers are/should be for those two unmarked connectors, I might be able to find them in the wiring diagrams.
Thanks!
Walter
Ran Out Of Fuel - Now What
dl_racing427
12 hours ago, Jdw12345 said:FWIW, being in the trucking business all my life, one reason manufacturers don’t put the pickup tubes to the bottom of the tank is to avoid sucking all of the crap in the fuel tank into you filters, if your fuel gets contaminated with water you can remove the drain plug from the bottom of the tank and drain all of the crap out, along with additional strength the bottom of my tank has a low area for drainage, that’s all I can think of for this reason.
JMO.
I know it's common practice, but I've never quite grasped the logic in this.
It seems like a small sump should be included, to allow the pickup to get all the fuel, and count on the filters to catch any contaminates.
That should KEEP the tank clean, instead of pushing the inevitable problem down the road until it's a major issue.
I modified the tank on my Cobra to add a sump, running the outlet and return lines directly to the sump.
After the first couple tanks, I did catch a bit of aluminum chips left over from building the tank, in the pre-filter, but after cleaning those out, it's never had another problem.
DavidL
Centramatics and Beads are essentially the same thing....they are rotational masses to counteract tire / wheel imbalance.
They don't "fight with each other"...as a matter of fact they reinforce each other. It's like putting more beads in a bead only tire.
When one puts in beads, they also need to put in filtered air valves.
I suspect the real issue you are having so much issues is a bent wheel, or more than likely a crappy manufactured tire and / or a belt that has shifted.
A decent tire shop can determine this on spin balancer once all beads are removed. Look for flat spot on the tire, hopping, wobbling, or major tire imbalance that is beyond the "double weights" to address.
Beads are used successfully on tons of over the road trucks. That's not the problem.
Let's also make sure that your shocks are actually working and not allowing the axle to bounce unrestricted that can certainly feel like a tire imbalance.
Scotty Hutto
@pwhittle May be able to tell you if it is replaceable.
bmulvenna@hotmail.com
Search of lots of posts on air loss with no definitive answer.
Air brake test works as it should and there is no problem while driving as the compressor keeps the guages at 100 plus pounds.
On our 2004 Dynasty after parking and leveling, both tanks will drop simultaneously to about 30 pounds after about 3 or 4 hours. The coach will stay level without the auxillary compressor running so the air bags are not losing air
I have sprayed soapy water on every fitting on both tanks, all three 6 packs, and the air dryer and see no leaks.
Any suggestions on what might be a common point on both tanks that might be causing both tanks to leak at the same speed?
Is there a way to insert a dye to possibly locate the leak?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Mike
Ivan K
Mike, one possibility: the tanks are connected through a shuttle valve, the valves plunger will move towards the leaking side and isolate them in case of a severe leak but a very small leak may not be enough to close the passage or the valve isn't closing tightly enough. I had, still have that situation eventhough it takes a week now to drain down to 60 psi, the PPV pressure. The way I found out where the leak is, I removed the connecting rear line at the shuttle valve up front and capped both sides. That let me confirm a slow leak in the the front plumbing, one of the numerous accessories past PPV. I'll see if I have a picture of my disassembled valve, there's just a cylinder inside that moves with airflow and closes the leaky side.
96 EVO
Don't know how common it is, but my original Meritor / Wabco System Saver air dryer's regeneration valve would open and release tank air pressure off and on, hours after shutting down the engine!
Noticed it while under the coach draining oil, hour or so after shutdown!
Replaced the dryer and all's been fine since!
timaz996
43 minutes ago, bmulvenna@hotmail.com said:Search of lots of posts on air loss with no definitive answer.
Air brake test works as it should and there is no problem while driving as the compressor keeps the guages at 100 plus pounds.
On our 2004 Dynasty after parking and leveling, both tanks will drop simultaneously to about 30 pounds after about 3 or 4 hours. The coach will stay level without the auxillary compressor running so the air bags are not losing air
I have sprayed soapy water on every fitting on both tanks, all three 6 packs, and the air dryer and see no leaks.
Any suggestions on what might be a common point on both tanks that might be causing both tanks to leak at the same speed?
Is there a way to insert a dye to possibly locate the leak?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Mike
I have the exact same problem including the timing. I have been looking for the leak for over three years and still no joy.
Frank McElroy
20 minutes ago, Ivan K said:Mike, one possibility: the tanks are connected through a shuttle valve, the valves plunger will move towards the leaking side and isolate them in case of a severe leak but a very small leak may not be enough to close the passage or the valve isn't closing tightly enough. I had, still have that situation eventhough it takes a week now to drain down to 60 psi, the PPV pressure. The way I found out where the leak is, I removed the connecting rear line at the shuttle valve up front and capped both sides. That let me confirm a slow leak in the the front plumbing, one of the numerous accessories past PPV. I'll see if I have a picture of my disassembled valve, there's just a cylinder inside that moves with airflow and closes the leaky side.
Ivan is correct. This valve connects the rear main dry air tank to the front dry aux air tank. This valve enables the drive axle spring brakes to be released by air in either dry air tank. This air valve also balances air between the two tanks but will close if the air leak is fast enough. The valve should be on your front aux dry air tank.
Both air tanks lose air together
Tom Cherry
42 minutes ago, bmulvenna@hotmail.com said:Search of lots of posts on air loss with no definitive answer.
Air brake test works as it should and there is no problem while driving as the compressor keeps the guages at 100 plus pounds.
On our 2004 Dynasty after parking and leveling, both tanks will drop simultaneously to about 30 pounds after about 3 or 4 hours. The coach will stay level without the auxillary compressor running so the air bags are not losing air
I have sprayed soapy water on every fitting on both tanks, all three 6 packs, and the air dryer and see no leaks.
Any suggestions on what might be a common point on both tanks that might be causing both tanks to leak at the same speed?
Is there a way to insert a dye to possibly locate the leak?
Thanks in advance for any suggestions.
Mike
TYPICALLY, so one has a benchmark or yardstick. MOST Monaco’s “loose” air. The rate is the key. Frank’s 08 Dynasty has a different system than my Camelot. Ben and I have one combo Tank. Dynasty, generically” has two separate tanks. We both will drop to ZERO over a period of time. For you to evaluate if your system is normal, here is how mine drops and, I think, Frank’s is similar. In warm weather, I can usually keep pressure for 4 - 5 days….but my yardstick….totally drained. So that is my rule of thumb.
NOW if you are losing 70 odd PSI in 4 hours, you have an issue. The Monaco warranty rule, IIRC, was 24 hours….so, the rate was about 4 PSI/Hour. You are about 18 - 20 PSI/Hour.
I never see, as does Frank, the MH list or sag or drop….snd that is for months….always level,
I did my leak testing. My biggest was the DRYER. The dryer has two sections….Front and rear. It was more cost effective to buy a new one, discounted, than to pay my OTR shop to rebuild mine. SO…don’t overlook it. My gut says you have a “fitting” issue and the fitting needs to be taken apart and a short amount cut off and then reassembled. Have you tested or leak or soap tested the canisters. That leak rate will lock the brakes…
Can’t provide you with more direction….except to quantify and say….Monaco would fix under warranty and it is at least 2X their standard.
NAMVET77
Vito
I tried to download your AC replacement doc and it has been removed. Can you pm me a copy? Thanks.
Don
hikenbike77@gmail.com
Tom Cherry
OK….had to refresh my memory and do a little research. So…here are the tips and tricks and also fixes.
- Replace the Main Panel breaker. Many members as well as Talin RV state that an older breaker will trip. NOW if the issue is on the board, as it appears to be…
- BUT…since the damage is done….do the following. KILL all AC, turn off the Genny CB up front. Kill (redundant) the solar. Go through the main panel and tighten every terminal. Pay attention to the front AC one. A loose wire will cause a HIGH resistance connection. The main panel breakers have a mind of their own…. Some not trip as fast…others will trip too quickly. I’d replace the breaker in the main panel.
- MY LOGIC….yes, one will see a bad relay on the EMS board. Those 4 relays were NOT RATED for FLA switching…. This is a MONACO being stubborn problem. Well documented. These relays were NEVER suppose to have an Inductive LOAD….as in the current JUMPS or spikes up. These relays were SUPPOSED, per Intellitec, NEVER to be used on INDUCTIVE LINE VOLTAGE. Now a heater element is OK. But when you have a MOTOR circuit….they will fail. There are 3 12VDC relays EMS board….one for each HVAC unit. They were low voltage as in they KILLED the 12 VDC signal to the CONTROL MODULE on the HVAC. OPPS….Monaco used Dometic’s. They SHOULD have run the DC power for each Module through the EMS board. OPPS….too much trouble….too much cost. Use the 4 120VAC’s….they’ll work….probably through warranty.
- SO, what has happened? The front AC is on and off all the time. So, when it shuts down and reatarts….the FLA is going to be higher than the normal 15 - 16 amps. Factor in a loose connection to the #12 wire on the breaker….or a grumpy breaker that will not trip at 20….bingo…you burn up the NORMALLY closed contacts on the relay.
- OPTIONS….bypass and drive ON. But, do the electrical PM and replace the breaker…. NOW, you are at RISK ONLY on 30 AMP….or maybe on GENNY (assuming you have an 8/7.5KW genny. If a 10KW….no issues….JUST DO NOT RUN BOTH AC’s on 30 Amp
- Pull out the board. Many folks have or maybe have CONTEMPLATED relay replacement. Frank and Paul are the “Board” Guru’s. Folks have said….I found the relay. If you can desolder the leads and wick up the solder and remove the relay….then replace.
- I’d pull out the board. Take good pictures. Get the relay specs….contact Frank or Paul and let them decide if they want to learn a new skill…actually it is applying what they routinely do…to repair boards….but this time the entire relay. I KNOW I have read on IRV2 that folks have done this….or THINK I have.
-
BUY the upgraded board on Amazon….$350 or so…
Unused wiring pigtails, 2003 Dynasty
Tom Cherry
Before you ping or tone or chase….what do your prints say. The shamans of the tribe are a moody bunch….if one doesn’t chime in, you’re on your own…
I’d figue out which are ground. Then check to see if there is voltage on the rest when parked, on AC or engine/switch on.
BUT…also be aware…they may have been for an engine that you don’t have. They may be for an option or feature you don’t have.
I have a Camelot. Turns out one of the MAIN chassis harnesses similar to yours and in the SAME PLACE….be a UNIVERSAL. So, my rig and the upper end Dynasty/above have the same “wires”. OK…no BIG DEAL….OH YES IT IS. One of the UNUSED wires was a REAR DOOR OPEN Wire. So, if I had a Dynasty, there would be a switch. If the door was open there would be a GROUND signal from the switch. That wire also would get a GROUND signal from any BAY door that was open.
THEN one day…I casually moved the bundle. Not beat it with a hammer, just used my hand and pulled it over for access. OMG. When I turned on the engine….all hades broke loose. Had an ear piercing alarm and a LIGHT on the dash. OPEN….
Called Monaco…they said….you have a door or bay OPEN. I said NO…then they said the switch says you do…then I says….there ain’t a switch on any bay or rear or genny. OH YES THERE IS. FINE….Look on my prints. MUMBLE. WELL, there ain’t none on the prints…you MUST have switches…..finally…back and forth and convinced “Jim” that I DID know what micro or jamb switch looked like….he conceded….it ain’t a switch problem….
OK….what be it? You got a chafed wire. Now wait a minute…why would Monaco put in a “needs ground” to activate an alarm and “LIGHT” wire???? WHEN there ain’t no sensors and WHY is it hooked up. Plot thickens. Jim consults…OK…the Dynasty and Camelot (maybe Diplomat) had the same harness….cheaper to have all of them the same. That way, the assemblers don’t have to THINK…a direct quote.
HOW FIX.?? Chase the wire. Find where it is chaffed and shorting out to ground….HOW….don’t ask us….good bye.
SO…I then called Medallion…who made the gauge package. They sent a print. YES…IDIOT lights and such were the SAME as a Dynasty. Therefore, the infamous “chaffed and grounded” wire was indeed….hooked up as it was in the harness.. Their print told me WHICH wire. So…since NO switch to ground….it would never come on….EXCEPT if Monaco goofed and it got chaffed…it was in full alarm mode.
I COULD cut the wire at the front pigtail. OR, slightly and gently move and tug and see if I could get the harness in a position so the bare portion was NOT grounded. 2010. Fixed it…never acted up again. I did, one time look for the pin…and Monaco, IIRC, never bothered to show all the wires in the harness….just the ones USED…so, no record or documentation on my “spare wire”.
THUS…rhe joys of a MH…and many of us have tales….unless someone with the same MH has been curious….I’m not holding my breath on an answer….BUT….YOU NEVER KNOW…
Tom Cherry
1 hour ago, NAMVET77 said:Vito
I tried to download your AC replacement doc and it has been removed. Can you pm me a copy? Thanks.
Don
hikenbike77@gmail.com
BUMMER. The files downloaded OK for me and @Frank McElroy.
I sent you a PM with them as an attachment.
Could not find them, as I THOUGHT they would have been in the “files”…key word searches failed.
Frank will have to sort this out….and see if they should be in our files…
BTW….that is definitely a CCC2 or the latest and standard thermostat…. Probably a bad Capacitor. If NOT… new unit or a $350 bandaid device. The Smart or Soft Start will not fix the issue….maybe allow it to work….but once it gets past, as in MORE SEVERE, then the only recourse, I think, is replacement….that’s my logic and understanding….
VinceB
20 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:...
I think I KNOW...how it is wired and I have included a marked diagram.
.....
Intellitec IRD and White Rodgers Wiring diagram...SUPPOSEDLY.pdf 59.83 kB · 6 downloads
Tom,
Thank you for the information. I can open the PDF in the above quote of your post but it is blank.
Tom Cherry
1 hour ago, VinceB said:Tom,
Thank you for the information. I can open the PDF in the above quote of your post but it is blank.
That would the result of being BRAIN DEAD... I was working on a LOT of topics for folks and in my HASTE... I ignored the SIGN that I put on my multi purpose printer... FACE UP... DUMMY.
Let's try it again....
I also edited the original post...so now it should work...
Hope this helps you understand the circuit. I WAS able with your narrative, to figure out the circuit...but thought that marking up the Intellitec print would make it a little easier to comprehend..
Good Luck...
Intellitec IRD and White Rodgers Wiring diagram...SUPPOSEDLY.pdf
granvillebarker
Don't forget to check the tag axle regulator, the tank drain valves, the air step regulator, the air horn solenoid, the parking brake, and the air pressure sensors for brake lights and low air for leaks. My last few leeks were the parking brake, air tank drain valve, and the tag regulator.
VinceB
Thanks. I think I understand it now.
The 12v from the boost switch must've blown a fuse SOMEWHERE and another from the ignition switch - or they just burned up the wire if not fused - just have to find them or where. Guessing both blew when the coil on the isolator blew - no way you can short 12v to ground and not have SOMETHING amiss. Not sure what would blow the isolator in the first place as it is rated for more than 12v - maybe the "Made in Mexico" QC and it was faulty from the get go. I'll need to get it removed and bench test it. Maybe the IRD too. Go from there.
I have lots of trouble shooting to do before our next trip in Sept. At least the coach is running OK and the batteries are all happy.
Tom Cherry
8 minutes ago, VinceB said:Thanks. I think I understand it now.
The 12v from the boost switch must've blown a fuse SOMEWHERE and another from the ignition switch - or they just burned up the wire if not fused - just have to find them or where. Guessing both blew when the coil on the isolator blew - no way you can short 12v to ground and not have SOMETHING amiss. Not sure what would blow the isolator in the first place as it is rated for more than 12v - maybe the "Made in Mexico" QC and it was faulty from the get go. I'll need to get it removed and bench test it. Maybe the IRD too. Go from there.
I have lots of trouble shooting to do before our next trip in Sept. At least the coach is running OK and the batteries are all happy.
First... GLAD you understand the circuit. I can (and you can verify) identify the wiring...based on the number of wires and such. That is why I marked up the print.
Second. I don't REALLY know how you will "BENCH TEST" the IRD. If needs to be in the vehicle and you need to have the engine on. Read the description of when it kicks in. Don't feel bad, I have read the BIRD and IRD and whatever language for years and it still, in narrative form....is confusing. BUT, this one is NOT as complicated as the BIRD. I don't know really why it is that complicate.
The IGNITION or the RUNNING signal is what triggers it. What is does...if I understand.
Start the Engine. You will have to let it run a while as the preheaters in the air intake suck up voltage...and then the Leece-Neville and the regulator settles down. The NORMAL Monaco System (Charging Voltage), at least on mine is around 13.8 - maybe 14.0... Usually 13.8/9...
SO that SHOULD say HELLO IRD...and then the RED should be energized and putting out somewhere in the "NEIGHBORHOOD" or a 12 VDC signal. Then you measure that to GROUND. If RED is ON then the Solenoid would be engaged.
THUS... you MUST test the IRD with the engine running...after the heaters are OFF and the charging voltage has stabilized. IF IT WORKS...then you can put in a NEW solenoid. The Solenoid is $6X or so. The new IRD is $8X or so...so it is closer to $205. OK...that gives you only ONE WAY CHARGING. The Engine will CHARGE the House batteries whilst driving.
BUT...when you are parked and on AC, then the Chassis just sits there and NOTHING is done to them. A FULL FLEDGED BIRD SYSTEM would charge the Chassis while on AC.
So, if the IRD is bad...then for less than $60 MORE and some recabling... I do NOT think you have to make up any NEW "RINGED" CABLES. The wiring is nothing more than hookup wire. You USE the Boost Switch's wiring and follow the directions. That is a simple hookup. The only real chore is running the ADDITIONAL line from the ML-ACR up front. It has to go WHERE the NEW Boost Signal it. It's purpose. IT gives you STATUS LIGHTS...as in ALL OK and such...or if there is an error...it tells you.
I have NOT been an advocate of the ML-ACR except in OLDER systems...and your is that. You would NOT believe the difference (or confidence) in knowing that when you are parked...the Chassis will be 100% the next morning. SO... If the IRD works...then it is YOUR call to replace the White Rodgers.
BUT, I DO wonder what SHORTED out the White Rodgers. With the ML-ACR, you eliminate all the "stuff". TWO CABLES....and rewiring.
Here is the ML-ACR PDF. It is straight forward and we do NOT have any "UNHAPPY" users...it is usually recommended when there is a charging issue..
Both air tanks lose air together
96 EVO
5 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:Frank’s 08 Dynasty has a different system than my Camelot. Ben and I have one combo Tank. Dynasty, generically” has two separate tanks.
Don't know about yours, but I have two separate tanks, one being a split tank.
The split tank is half supply tank (wet tank), the other half is primary dry tank. The secondary dry tank is a full tank.
Don't think the Dynasty has anything different other than maybe the location of the tanks. Frank will correct me if his Dyn has separate supply tank and primary dry tank.
wamcneil
3 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:Before you ping or tone or chase….what do your prints say. The shamans of the tribe are a moody bunch….if one doesn’t chime in, you’re on your own…
I’d figue out which are ground. Then check to see if there is voltage on the rest when parked, on AC or engine/switch on.
Well… haven’t pierced the insulation on the looped pair yet… but on the four wires: none are ground and none are powered, even with ignition on.
Seems like the looped pair might be for an engine cover pin switch, but the colors don’t match the diagram.
I spent a hour earlier browsing through wiring diagrams… But without knowing what they are connected to, or would/should be used for, I have little hope of finding them in the wiring diagrams.
jacwjames
There was a recent thread and I believe @Ivan K posted a wiring drawing showing a grouping of spare wires that were run.
My guess the other end is buried somewhere under/in the dash.
VinceB
I don't mean to argue - I appreciate your help.
I have a transformer that will produce 12.6v DC. Why not apply 12v to IRD ground and blue wire and wait for it to pass 12v to red wire? To bench test the Rogers/W I suggest to test the continuity between small lugs. If OK (NO continuity) then apply 12v to small lugs and test continuity on big lugs - right?
I have a Xantrex Echo to keep the chassis batteries up and it works nicely.
That wiring on the PDF looks a bit intimidating since I've never done one and I'm not as physically able as I once was to run wires etc. So I'm of a mind to KISS here or am I off on the wrong path?
You are correct - why did Roger/W blow in the first place. Is it actually blown? Lots of questions at answer before buying parts.
NAMVET77
I pulled the cover off the ac on the roof and a copper line broke by what I think is the expansion tank. No one will fix it cuz no where to put in the “T’s” to pull a vacuum or charge it. I’m not an ac guy so just guessing on the repairs. Must be true cuz everyone buys a new one vice getting it fixed.
Don
04 Camelot
Tom Cherry
27 minutes ago, VinceB said:I don't mean to argue - I appreciate your help.
I have a transformer that will produce 12.6v DC. Why not apply 12v to IRD ground and blue wire and wait for it to pass 12v to red wire? To bench test the Rogers/W I suggest to test the continuity between small lugs. If OK (NO continuity) then apply 12v to small lugs and test continuity on big lugs - right?
I have a Xantrex Echo to keep the chassis batteries up and it works nicely.
That wiring on the PDF looks a bit intimidating since I've never done one and I'm not as physically able as I once was to run wires etc. So I'm of a mind to KISS here or am I off on the wrong path?
You are correct - why did Roger/W blow in the first place. Is it actually blown? Lots of questions at answer before buying parts.
First. Unless you have a variable output power supply, it might (not) test properly. You have to maintain 13.3 VDC for 12 seconds….to “get it going”. Then the expected or latched in voltage from Alternator should be around 13.8/.9.
reread the pdf…bottom of page 1….and top of next page. It tells exactly the way it works and when it cuts in and out. No need or advantage to disassemble and pull out.
All you have to do is leave it in place…verify, like posted before, unless you want shave insulation off the ignition (yellow/blue) wire. After a few minutes…measure your ignition voltage. If it is in the range…the red and black will measure somewhere around 12 vdc. The solenoid ain’t picky.
you did not state that you had a charger on the chassis bank…so…that would have been helpful….
read and test on the MH to see if the IRD works. Your solenoid is toast, something fried it…maybe it got water inside….who knows. If the IRD works…pop for a solenoid. It both are broken…then you can buy new or do like most and get the 2024 technology and then you will have good controlled charging os both banks.
saflyer
I’ve heard in the past the Roadmaster chassis of Monaco and Holiday Rambler is a modification of a Freightliner chassis. If so I wonder if Freightliner will work on my 2005 HR Ambassador. My headlights don’t work. No headlights at all. I’ve had two shops try to find out why they don’t but without luck. I have a wiring schematic but the last shop said it only was wiring for the coach, not the chassis. I’m at a loss for where to go. Will Freighliner give me any help?
Ivan K
30 minutes ago, NAMVET77 said:I pulled the cover off the ac on the roof and a copper line broke by what I think is the expansion tank. No one will fix it cuz no where to put in the “T’s” to pull a vacuum or charge it. I’m not an ac guy so just guessing on the repairs. Must be true cuz everyone buys a new one vice getting it fixed.
Don04 Camelot
If it is a heat pump, they can put the T on the long line from condenser and charge it in heat pump mode. That's what I have done more than once.
Best chassis battery purchase chassis options?
saflyer
I purchased my 2005 HR Ambassador about 11 1/2 years ago. Still have the batteries that were in it on purchase. Today they said “Replace us”. What advice is there for replacing them?
Ivan K
If they lasted and worked good for 11 years, I'd say go with the same! That's a great lifespan.
Steve Shunk
I pulled into a rest area and noticed this puddle of oil on the outside duel on the passenger side. My first thought is a hub oil leak. Does anybody think it might be something else? Can I limp 200 miles to a repair shop?
Oil Leaking From Hub
Ivan K
Since it is collecting on outside of the wheel, it is gonna be a bad axle seal. Easy to fix where you are, mobile tech or any tech. Whether you can continue 200 miles, depends how much already leaked out, looking at the wheel dirt, it may have been a while. May want to check the level in differential.
vito.a
Roadmaster and Freightliner are not connected in any way.
But give them a call. They may work on your coach
Dr4Film
Are we talking about group 31 batteries or an 8D battery?
klcdenver
Please post the brand name and size of those long lasting batteries
NAMVET77
Ivan,
Thanks. I’ll check with my AC guy. Everyone said it can’t be done!!! Go figure.
Don
pwhittle
9 hours ago, Scotty Hutto said:@pwhittle May be able to tell you if it is replaceable.
It is soldered in, but possible to replace with the right soldering equipment.
I have repaired one for a member here.
Paul
Ivan K
Yeah, against a popular belief if you can get it done cheap. Don't tell anyone 😉
Tom Cherry
That’s quite a track record. FWIW…. Most are using the Interstate 31 MHD 950. The 750’s are too weak. Monaco dropped back to them as a “cost cutting” measure. BUT….they are a bit PUNY. Trust me…I upgraded mine to the 950’s.
Ken Smith
Does anyone have information on the 4 pin Medallion Instrument gauges used in the late 2007 Camelot/Scepter. I am looking for the pin diagram and service manual for a Fuel/Trans/Volt Medallion dash gauge. Also trying to confirm what type of cpu these gauges connect with to convert the analog to digital for the gauges.
Thanks,
Ken
Oil Leaking From Hub
Benjamin
Take the cover off and make sure the smaller nuts in the smaller diameter axle end are tight, heck, check the lug nuts also. Usually a paper seal in there, that gets crushed tight, so it won't take any movement. Wouldn't hurt to lift that end off the ground and use a crowbar to make sure the bearings are tight without taking anything apart.
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