Monacoers Daily News

I have an old Brake Buddy I am going to try and replace a relay on. If that goes well maybe I’ll try  it on this board!

Which batteries, chassis or coach? 

What were the original brand?

If you don't use them (discharge / charge cycles) by staying in one spot all the time I'd say replace with Costco / Sam's / Walmart.  If you want the best coach batteries then Trojan T105's.  If you want the best chassis batteries Interstate Group 31 950 AGM's (Tom's recommendation).

*BUT* . . . . if you want to go whole hog do a lithium (LiPO4) coach conversion with a giant solar array on the roof and Blue Sea charging system.  The possibilities are pretty endless.

Keep us posted.

- bob

OK...this is a pure GUESS.  The 2008 Gauges (Medallions) on the Camelot/Scepters were different.  NOW.. ..  Monaco also did make an upgrade to the electrical system. BUT, one does NOT know if the main Chassis Harness was changed.  I had an errant alarm issue with mine...as in the SAME Harness for the Dynasty (and up) was used on the Camelots.  Don't know about the Diplomats and lower.

Bottom line, I worked with Monaco Tech and then called Medallion.  They sent me this information.  It DOES list the Pinouts from the Chassis Harness to the Medallion.

I would contact Medallion.  If you look at my system...there are THREE main input connectors. That goes into the main cluster.  From what I was told, the main cluster is actually the "CPU/Brain" and then the remote MPX connectors (4 Pin) are used.

Sort of Piggybacking on what Myron just posted.  My system has the multi button unit on the driver's console.  BUT the gauge array for his 2008 is different from the Camelot/Scepter in 2008.

OK...  I have a LOT of different model years on my laptop to help members.  I ASSUME you have drawings.  The scanned copy we have was really light. I enhanced the PDF of the dash so it is more legible and has better contrast.

Here is the dash layout for your system

M3 ILB system connectors_pinouts.pdf 2007 Camelot_Scepter Dash ENHANCED PRINT 16623091.pdf

30 minutes ago, MyronTruex said:

They blew cold air on my knees only.

I hate that! 

I'm curious if you can post a photo of your "new" dash. 

- b

On 5/30/2024 at 7:49 AM, Daryl Ammons said:

Thank you so much, Bill, for the information.  After a lot of phone calls time searching was able to find the roller at Cass Hudson. 

My thanks to all of you who responded to this thread about my slide issues.  I was able to get to the roller, get it removed, and find a replacement because of all of the help you guys offered.  Monacoers.org is such a blessing to novices like myself.

I appreciate you all!

Daryl A

I am still learning so much about these beast but someday maybe I will be able to pass it along and help someone.

Daryl,

     A couple things..

1. How thick is the material on the new roller compared to the one you took out?  Obviously it is thicker than the end caps of the roller. Just how much is my question?  Would you have the part number by chance?

2. It looks like your bed box is like mine… when slide is retracted, from the right side of bed, can you look under the box and see if you also have a roller at the wall that would be under the left side pillow?

I know Monaco placed rollers in different locations.  I looked closer at my slide and I also have the same roller you had to replace so I’ll be looking forward to this repair.  Just curious how different the rollers are from the one under the bed box.

Thanks,

Kurt

OK... Now curiosity...as that is how we learn and help others.

The Eclipse is a WALL mounted and will be on your SLIDE like it is used on other models...and I THINK that some later Diplomats also had them.  IS that correct?

How does Carefree suggest you get power. I do not (but often WRONG) think that there is a prewired harness for an awning as well as a controller.  So what is the Drill or Install to get power.  The SLIDE, assuming you are going to put it on the slide, has an umbilical and you will have to run main power to the slide.  IS that correct?

I can NOT recall is there is a weatherproof control or outside switch for it.  I DO remember that there is access to the motor as when they don't work or run very slowly, the techs have a drill battery adapter that they plug in or jumper.  Where will the Extend/Retract button be located?

Will you have an INTERIOR Remote, like, again, I think, that the OEM Eclipse's had on most models? Is so, what is Carefree's recommendations for running power from a slide into the MH?

Thanks in advance...

Now that I’ve replaced/upgraded the battery cables to my genset & she starts like a charm (Thanks @Tom Cherry for the awesome guidance), I’m ready to try a feature on the coach we’ve never used - the AGS. But, where in the world did they hide the AGS module on our 06 Dynasty? I’ve crawled all over & can’t find it!

11 hours ago, saflyer said:

I’ve heard in the past the Roadmaster chassis of Monaco and Holiday Rambler is a modification of a Freightliner chassis. If so I wonder if Freightliner will work on my 2005 HR Ambassador. My headlights don’t work. No headlights at all. I’ve had two shops try to find out why they don’t but without luck. I have a wiring schematic but the last shop said it only was wiring for the coach, not the chassis. I’m at a loss for where to go. Will Freighliner give me any help?

NO...they are as different as can be.  The Roadmaster was actually a "Chrysler" designed chassis.  Can't remember exactly HOW it got to Monaco...other than Chrysler decided MH's was NOT their forte.

Next UP.  There are drawing for your MH in the files.  This is NOT a "specialty" circuit or something that is exotic.  The Headlights are a bit different...and folks often have issues.  If you use the Search Function put in Headlights and Ambassador in the Search Box.  Then click on Everywhere and choose TOPIC's

You may not find all you want...but there will be lots there.  You have to scroll down and read or skim the topic and then click and that will take you to the entire post.

As far as your headlights go.  Monaco used the SAME SYSTEM from at least the early 2000's.  There were TWO systems....you probably do NOT have the VIP Smart Steering wheel...which makes it simpler.

There is a headlight switch.  That feeds a relay.  The relay then feeds the HI/LO Switch.  Then that feeds the headlights.  There may be more than one relay.  These are BOSCH 5 Pin relays.  They will be wherever your FRONT electronics is. You need to find a BETTER SHOP.  There is NO MAGIC Chassis Drawing.  The prints or Schematics you have are for the 12 VDC system.  There is NOT a specific "Chassis SYSTEM".  All you need is a good shop that can work on CARS or TRUCKS (OTR).  This is NOT like a car...  If the Tech can't do voltage testing and follow a circuit....then don't let him MESS with it.  We have had MORE issues with unknowing techs than you can name.

The Monaco prints show WHERE the 12 VDC power comes from.  This is NOT SOME EXOTIC COMPUTER BOARD...  It is STUDS and CABLES.  Then the Headlight circuit is simple.  FOLLOW the PRINTS....  Check the RELAYS.  Check what is happening...

We don't specifically have an "AMBASSDOR" print.  But we have many other 2005.  If you have the print....take a picture of it or have it scanned and post it.

That will tell members that will help exactly what you have.  ODDS ARE...we have MANY that will be able to help.

It is a MATTER of finding out WHAT DON'T WORK.  The Headlight switch is old...as maybe a Chevy Pickup...and NAPA or any parts house has them. Easy to SWAP out.  BUT, it takes a mechanic that can use a VOLTMETER rather than google a YouTube or look for a "CHIP".  

The same goes for the Relays.  OLD, but reliable and SIMPLE technogy.

We have actually had folks that, recently, got tired of issues and put in a different switch.  SO, we have help here..

Good Luck.

What does the MANUAL say.  There are only TWO Places that they live...and I'm ASSUMING we are dealing with a MAGNUM inverter.  UP FRONT in the FRB...

OR, and the 2008 Dynasty, I THINK, is this way.  Near the Inverter.  Start looking there. It is mounted and HOT hidden under a panel or above the ceiling.

It has FIVE (5) knobs...  There is a section, I'm pretty sure, in the 8th Chapter on HOUSE electric.  There is a picture there.  In order to use your AGS, you have to set the KNOBS for the parameters.  THEN, you can ENGAGE or ENABLE IT from the Magnum Remote.  That is how it works.  Read up

I've had both they are a waste of money. Find a tire dealer that dose "Road Force Balancing" They have machines that will balance the biggest RV tire out there . My Monaco ride like it's on glass. watch a few you tube videos on it. 

26 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

OK... Now curiosity...as that is how we learn and help others.

The Eclipse is a WALL mounted and will be on your SLIDE like it is used on other models...and I THINK that some later Diplomats also had them.  IS that correct?

How does Carefree suggest you get power. I do not (but often WRONG) think that there is a prewired harness for an awning as well as a controller.  So what is the Drill or Install to get power.  The SLIDE, assuming you are going to put it on the slide, has an umbilical and you will have to run main power to the slide.  IS that correct?

I can NOT recall is there is a weatherproof control or outside switch for it.  I DO remember that there is access to the motor as when they don't work or run very slowly, the techs have a drill battery adapter that they plug in or jumper.  Where will the Extend/Retract button be located?

Will you have an INTERIOR Remote, like, again, I think, that the OEM Eclipse's had on most models? Is so, what is Carefree's recommendations for running power from a slide into the MH?

Thanks in advance...

The Eclipse mounts on the MH side wall just like the manual awning.  I could actually use the same tube and fabric.  I will have to provide the power and most likely will run it under the camper and come up through to the wall and mount a switch to operate it.  

Well, the manual is what I consulted first (Section 8 - page 266). It shows a picture of it but has no indication of its location. I also pulled out the wiring diagrams. Same thing again - no location. I’ve visited the FRB 3 times - not in there. I’ve visited interior cabinets - not there. I’ve visited RRB - well, you get the gist. Even looked in basement storage bays. I’m sure it’s hiding in plane sight - I just need some different glasses. 

Odyssey batteries only way to go....huge power, 99.9% pure lead lasy years, still got mine on both chassis and house for 14 years not.  They cost but never let you down.

I will respectfully disagree with your statement above. Balance Masters are NOT a waste of money nor were the Dyna Beads I used for my first set of Bridgestone Tires on my Windsor. The Dyna Beads worked exactly as they are advertised and my current Balance Masters are even better.

The Road Force Balancing on our 22.5 inch huge tires in my opinion IS a waste of money. It is just another glorified "term" for dynamic balancing which for some tire and wheel combinations is worth the additional expense.

It should be on the ceiling about a foot away from the Magnum inverter.

11 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Are we talking about group 31 batteries or an 8D battery?

I’ll have to dig them out. They’re hidden behind the coach batteries. Will check type and brand and get back. Like the idea of going with the same due to their success but I’ve gotten indications the industry has changed in recent years so what was good before may not be now.

Thanks. Found the thread. 
I’ll poke around behind the dash and put a tone generator on it and see if luck is on my side. 
Previous attempt at tracing with the tone generator didn’t go well. The signal just spread out all over the place. Pretty much everywhere EXCEPT where I eventually found the wires I was looking for…🤦

Yes.  It is confusing.  As Tom stated, the original Roadmaster was designed by Chrysler.  I'm not aware that Chrysler ever built any vehicles using the design before it was sold to Monaco.   The Monaco brand was eventually purchased by REV.  REV has TradeMarked the "Roadmaster Chassis" name and is/was using it in Monaco products they built on Freightliner chassis.  This makes it really difficult for those who don't understand the history of the Chrysler designed Roadmaster Chassis.  If I had to venture a guess, I'd say they did this because the Roadmaster (Chrysler designed version) has a great reputation for comfort and stability.  I'm attaching a 2017 Diplomat brochure page showing the usage of "Roadmaster Chassis" as evidence of this.

Rick N.

I picked up my coach yesterday. Cost was $1,999.34 for TRW steering box swap. Yeah, why not just an even $2,000? 
 

The steering was a little stiff when I left the truck yard but I didn’t have to constantly turn left, right, left again to keep it in the lane. I never got over 45 MPH.
 

BTW, there was a white Monaco Dynasty in one of the service bays. 
 

Tomorrow we head down to the beach for the 4th of July.  I’ll be on the interstate so I’ll find out how much better it drives. I also replaced both front tires so it should ride and steer better. 
 

Thanks for sharing your knowledge everyone. 

Does Carefree supply the aluminum plate that screws to the roof?

Wasn't sure if Monaco made that piece or not.

Thanks @Frank McElroy for the “about a foot away from the inverter”! However, mine was on the sidewall by the exterior wall of the coach basically behind my head. “Hiding in plain sight . . .” Man, what an embarrassment - not sure even new glasses can help here! Thanks - you guys are great!

13 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Does Carefree supply the aluminum plate that screws to the roof?

Wasn't sure if Monaco made that piece or not.

If you are talking about the piece on the beltline with the groove that the fabric mounts to, I’m pretty sure it is standard for the manufacturer to install that piece when camper is built

On our coach, the 'C' channel the fabric slides into is part of a long aluminum plate that get's screwed to the edge of the roof.

Guess this is to get it a little higher to clear the slide roof.

Ya, the cost of DP ownership catches up with you. 

Considering I've read that people have paid ~$1700 just for the TRW box the total cost seems very reasonable. 

I spent 2 days trying to find an unused pair of wires using a tone tracer without success.

Finally just pushed a 3/4" conduit front to back for the fuel pressure sensor wire and then also used it for the Bluesea switch.

Just took off my OEM Jabsco tank it was leaking thru the air valve so it's pretty clear the diaphragm is shot.  I will temporarily replace it with a 3/4" NPT plug until I find out more.  

I discovered that the pump in there is not the original, it's an AquaJet with mfg date in 2018.  

If I understand what @Tom Cherry  Said above, an accumulator tank isn't needed, so I'll just leave the plug in and follow instructions on adjustment which @David Pratt posted above.  

If I do need to replace that tank it would sure be nice to put in one that's a little smaller.  The old Jabsco tank was jammed in tightly between wiring, plumbing and the Glendinning power-cord tube.

-----------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------------

On 6/25/2024 at 5:11 PM, tomevansfl said:

Barry said a customer paid $2,000 for a swap to a TRW.  Is that in line with what you experienced ?

Nope. There are tons of posts on this subject over the years. That's the beauty of the search function on this site.

I worked directly with a special contact person (Brent) at Weller Truck in MI to get the correct TRW box for my Windsor. Barry ordered the new Pitman arm that needed to be installed. Total cost for the box, pitman arm and labor was around $900. This was done back in 2017.

Brent Hofstra
Assistant Team Leader in steering department
Grand Rapids, MI
616-724-3762
2008 HR Scepter hydraulic slide
WilPaul35 18 hours ago

Best chassis battery purchase chassis options?
RC2018 17 hours ago

If you go with lead acid batteries, I suggest you add thermoil to them.

Best chassis battery purchase chassis options?
Bobkat11208 17 hours ago

Best chassis battery purchase chassis options?
Dr4Film 17 hours ago

I bought my set of group 31C batteries at Sam's Club, $135.

Is Roadmaster chassis related to Freightliner?
Bobkat11208 17 hours ago

You might see if there is a Cummins Coach Care location near you. That’s who I use locally in the Indianapolis area. Their national website specifically mentions Tiffin, but they work on my RR8, fwiw.
 

Best chassis battery purchase chassis options?
cbr046 17 hours ago

We do know that most battery brands are made by one of 3 different companies, right? 

Even in the photo above the Duracell is made by East Penn Mfg

- bob

Upgrade to electric patio awning
Rgoodman 17 hours ago

26 minutes ago, Bobkat11208 said:

I’m sure I’m in the minority here and I don’t think anyone asked: why do you want to replace your manual awning? Our 2005 has the Carefree Eclipse and I wish we had the manual one we had on our old Sportscoach.  Personally I don’t trust it; Will it roll out, will it roll up, what if the switch/motor fails, do I have to rewire it because the wiring is the wrong gauge, getting windy better hope it goes in, boy I wish it was more shade providing? 🤷With our manual one all I really had to worry about was where is the pull rod, which way to flip that darn latch—is it away from me or towards me to retract it, and watch out for the support arms getting a beer out of the cooler. 😂Not judging, just curious.

What if you have your rod but the pull loop rotted?  You better also have a ladder.  😂😂.   I want it for the ease of use.  I’m ok with replacing what may tear up cause the manual one has had problems also.   Although I would love to live in it and be retired I am not.  In the fall we will be out for 5 weeks/ 7500 miles and several one night stops.  My awning requires a rod, and a ladder because it needs help going out and in (tube is warped).  I thought if I’m replacing it an electric one would be nice for an overnight stay- in and out with the push of a button.  Unfortunately the eclipse set up is too expensive ($3,500) so for now I will keep doing what I’m doing 

Upgrade to electric patio awning
Bobkat11208 17 hours ago

2 minutes ago, Rgoodman said:

What if you have your rod but the pull loop rotted?  You better also have a ladder.  😂😂.   I want it for the ease of use.  I’m ok with replacing what may tear up cause the manual one has had problems also.   Although I would love to live in it and be retired I am not.  In the fall we will be out for 5 weeks/ 7500 miles and several one night stops.  My awning requires a rod, and a ladder because it needs help going out and in (tube is warped).  I thought if I’m replacing it an electric one would be nice for an overnight stay- in and out with the push of a button.  Unfortunately the eclipse set up is too expensive ($3,500) so for now I will keep doing what I’m doing 

$3500? Yikes! Just out of curiosity, how much for a new manual? Asking for a friend.  😂 

Best chassis battery purchase chassis options?
klcdenver 17 hours ago

I have the Duracell group 31’s and they are 6 years old and still going strong. 🐅🐅

Ran Out Of Fuel - Now What
Preston W 17 hours ago

We found out years ago that rgw fuel pickup pipe down in the tank doesn't go all the way to the bottom to allow for the sludge that builds up in the bottom of diesel fuel tanks. On our 1998 dynasty we were fortunate that the previous owner had ordered the Racor air and fuel purge system on the back. which we have used countless times it works so well when you get air in the lines or run out of fuel.

Medallion Ga
Ken Smith 16 hours ago

Myron and Tom,

Thanks for the info you both had on the Medallion gauges. No  plans to change or customize my dash,  just chasing a grounding issue that keeps popping up with fuel gauge, headlights and front automotion visor shades.  My 2007 HR Scepter was one of the last two built and titled as a 2007.  It appears it has a lot of the changes Monaco made in the 2008 Camelot/ Scepter Coaches. 

The fuel gauge has had a grounding issue for a long time. Back when Monaco was a real company  I was talking with Jessi in the service dept. in Colberg and he told me to it was a grounding issue. He suggested adding another ground on the gauge and one on the sending unit.  I added a ground strap from the sending unit to the frame which helped some but still was intermittent. After Monaco was gutted I never could find anybody that had actually had real world knowledge of old school Monaco Coaches so I ignored the grounding problem till now.  I have spent the last few days chasing this ground gremlin and this is what I  have found.

1. With a full fuel tank I can turn on headlights and the fuel gauge drop to under half tank. 

2. Automotion Shade frt. passenger visor shade will not go up or down when I turn on headlights. Drivers side visor works correctly.

3. Both Driver and Passenger visors work correctly when light switch is in running light position or turn off.

4. Passenger Visor operation is the same using the drivers side switch or the passenger side switch.

My thought was to add a new ground strap to the MEDALLION MMCD but I  can't find it.  Guess I will call  Medallion on Monday and see what information they have. At this point it looks like I may have the same Medallion system as the 2008 Camelot/Scepter.

 

 

 

 

HWH Leveling operations
Rboss22 16 hours ago

Trying to figure how to keep my 05 HR Nav 45’ PBQ to stay level with the airbag leveling system?  Do I need to be plugged in or running the Gen set?

My system leaks down after a few hours seems like no matter what i do.  

Thanks

Best chassis battery purchase chassis options?
dl_racing427 16 hours ago

4 hours ago, Lionel said:

Odyssey batteries only way to go....huge power, 99.9% pure lead lasy years, still got mine on both chassis and house for 14 years not.  They cost but never let you down.

After having very short life from Optima batteries, I switched to Odyssey in my collector cars.
I've had great service from them, up to 10 years.  I do keep them on a battery minder.

I just had to replace the original Group 31 950CCA wet cell battery in my Generac generator.
That battery was dated 2014, so it lasted 10 years as well, with a maintainer.
Optima prices have gone way up, so I decided to try another AGM brand, Weize, which had good reviews.
Oil Leaking From Hub
dl_racing427 16 hours ago

With the amount of oil in the rear axle, it would take a large leak over a long time to lower the level to the point of damage.
Unless you've been seeing this leak for a while, I think you'll be ok for a couple hundred more miles.

It would be a good idea to check the bearings for looseness beforehand. Losing a wheel hub wouldn't be fun. 😧

HWH Leveling operations
96 EVO 16 hours ago

Should be a 12v system.

Do you use 'AUTO' mode when you level? 

If so, and you leave the leveling system on, it should wake up every couple of hours, check the level, make any adjustments needed, then go back to 'sleep' for another couple of hours.

This is, if everything in the system is functional!

2006 Dynasty - Starter tests positive but won't crank in front nor back.
Petes Knight 16 hours ago

On 6/2/2023 at 10:00 AM, Tom Cherry said:

Pardon the diversion....

Rodent (Timothy Field Mouse) chewing can be costly....  We parked my wife's ATS on our second driveway that ends in a clearing in the woods where we used to store our boat and now our utility trailer.  This was during the driveway repaving project.  It stayed there for several days....  I drove it for a week or after the driveway was cured out....but one day....it was running rough...and I mean ROUGH.  Being an old Carburetor guy....I just used a little more throttle.  We were on the way to Church so I had her follow me and dropped it off at the dealer.  Total of 12 miles.  

Timothy had chewed a harness....and the tech showed me....it was NOT a squirrel as the critter could not get into that narrow crevice.  That eventually lead to a shorted sensor... MAF if I recall.  The MAF sensor was non functional so the injectors were pumping like crazy.  You had to keep the throttle opened....and I did run in a lower gear....to keep it running.  OPPS....that was the beginning of a very expensive issue.  They replaced the sensor and corrected the or fixed the wiring (had to pull some stuff out but not replace the harness).  Then several days later....the CHECK ENGINE light came back on.  The two Catalytic Converters were mounted on the exhaust manifold (V6).  They were fuel soaked....beyond belief.  Two NEW Cat Converters were needed.  Total bill was over $5K....  The dealer sort of worked on it and my extended warranty and GM assisted....DODGED A BULLETT.....but I DID find solace that perhaps Timothy might not have survived......READ ON....  Do NOT discount the amount of damage that a rodent can do.  I keep fresh mice/rat baits in all my bays and one in the galley when in storage....

OK.....as the PAST Director of Environmental......this is a bit long....but my mice incident DID remind me of a "Court Case of Consequence".  If you ever wondered about reading a Prop 65 Warning on a package, it is a requirement if you ship or sell products into California.  It alerts the consumer that there is a KNOW carcinogen (may not be harmful....like the warning NOT to remove and swallow battery electrolyte that is in many new car owner's manuals....

As the Director of Environmental for a major (once upon a time) tool company, I had to "clean up an oversight" and pay retribution to the plaintiff for failing to have the proper warnings on a package.  We were a major soldering iron and station company.  We KNEW to label our solder, if it contained lead....and the Prop 65 warning was OK.  BUT, a "well intentioned" Ex Para Legal made a career of walking around stores and such and checking labels. He determined that a sponge on a soldering station COULD, eventually, become contaminated with lead if the operator used lead solder or desoldered joints that contained such. I won't get into the particulars that my Corporate legal team and my own research turned up....but an individual can file a notice with the CA Environmental folks and the Attorney General alledgeing that a product is not properly labeled and if they rule in favor, then the whistleblower gets a percentage of the fine.

Google Prop 65.  Therefore all wire, unless the coloring pigmentation is certified as LEAD FREE, must have a CA Prop 65 warning if sold or shipped there...from the New England Journal of Medicine....  This was what the "attorneys" used as a teaching tool....

In December, 1991, a 46-year-old Ohio man was discovered to have lead intoxication. His blood lead level was 50 micrograms/dl, with symptoms of numbness of the fingers and palms, tinnitus, and possible cognitive impairment. Usual sources of adult lead intoxication could not be found. The mystery was solved when the man (a microwave technician at a television station) revealed that for 20 years he had habitually chewed on bits of plastic insulation that he stripped from the ends of electrical wires. The colored wire coatings were tested and found to contain 10 to 39 mg of lead per gram.

The REST of the story was that the station, as many companies do, require that if you strip wire on a job, you collect it in a container (since you might be in an office)....OR, for very small gauge wire, it was SUSPECTED, that he used his teeth as the stripper......YES....this did happen....

SO, if you use replacement wires or fuel lines and expect rodent infestation.....purchase the ones that have a Prop 65 warning and the mice will be punished....

I have heard about people chewing on plastic from electric lines….. very bad…..! I saw a guy doing it and told him that story and he was shocked……

Both air tanks lose air together
bmulvenna@hotmail.com 15 hours ago

Found a leak in the air dryer. Will order a new one. Not sure if this is the total solution but will find out.

I again checked for leaks in all fittings on both front and rear tank, door seal, air horn, park brake, dash guages, all 3 6 packs, tag pressure, govenor, drain valves, step, brakes, air bags, etc and found no leaks. Only the leak in the dryer. Will report back if new dryer fixed the issue.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Mike

White-Rogers 586-105111
VinceB 15 hours ago

17 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

First.  Unless you have a variable output power supply, it might (not) test properly.  You have to maintain 13.3 VDC for 12 seconds….to “get it going”.  Then the expected or latched in voltage from Alternator should be around 13.8/.9.

reread the pdf…bottom of page 1….and top of next page.  It tells exactly the way it works and when it cuts in and out. No need or advantage to disassemble and pull out.

All you have to do is leave it in place…verify, like posted before, unless you want shave insulation off the ignition (yellow/blue) wire.  After a few minutes…measure your ignition voltage. If it is in the range…the red and black will measure somewhere around 12 vdc.  The solenoid ain’t picky.

you did not state that you had a charger on the chassis bank…so…that would have been helpful….

read and test on the MH to see if the IRD works.  Your solenoid is toast,  something fried it…maybe it got water inside….who knows.  If the IRD works…pop for a solenoid.  It both are broken…then you can buy new or do like most and get the 2024 technology and then you will have good controlled charging os both banks.

After going over the materials again, I see your point and will do exactly as you suggest. No sense making more work of this than necessary.

Your help is very much appreciated.

Medallion Ga
MyronTruex 15 hours ago

1 hour ago, Ken Smith said:

Myron and Tom,

Thanks for the info you both had on the Medallion gauges. No  plans to change or customize my dash,  just chasing a grounding issue that keeps popping up with fuel gauge, headlights and front automotion visor shades.  My 2007 HR Scepter was one of the last two built and titled as a 2007.  It appears it has a lot of the changes Monaco made in the 2008 Camelot/ Scepter Coaches. 

The fuel gauge has had a grounding issue for a long time. Back when Monaco was a real company  I was talking with Jessi in the service dept. in Colberg and he told me to it was a grounding issue. He suggested adding another ground on the gauge and one on the sending unit.  I added a ground strap from the sending unit to the frame which helped some but still was intermittent. After Monaco was gutted I never could find anybody that had actually had real world knowledge of old school Monaco Coaches so I ignored the grounding problem till now.  I have spent the last few days chasing this ground gremlin and this is what I  have found.

1. With a full fuel tank I can turn on headlights and the fuel gauge drop to under half tank. 

2. Automotion Shade frt. passenger visor shade will not go up or down when I turn on headlights. Drivers side visor works correctly.

3. Both Driver and Passenger visors work correctly when light switch is in running light position or turn off.

4. Passenger Visor operation is the same using the drivers side switch or the passenger side switch.

My thought was to add a new ground strap to the MEDALLION MMCD but I  can't find it.  Guess I will call  Medallion on Monday and see what information they have. At this point it looks like I may have the same Medallion system as the 2008 Camelot/Scepter.

Here are a couple more files:

1 hour ago, Ken Smith said:

 

 

 

 

Here is everything I have. 

I am curious what you are planning for the dash. Sounds like a nice upgrade. I replaced my actual plastic panel with a flat piece of aluminum covered with vinyl. Looks great and allowed me to move the darn AC vents. They blew cold air on my knees only. I moved the instruments around a bit too.

Dash Instrument wiring.pdf Dash panel with message center.pdf

You are either chasing a ground or a loss/loaded voltage line.

Very easy to diagnose. Voltmeter on input voltage should stay very strong. Finding voltage on any of the ground side of instruments in question or the shade and you have a bad ground.

Chased one down to a bad pin connection in a molex connector on my buddies rig. Your dash probably tilts out quite easily so you should be able to find any of the ground wires. Now finding a decent ground for that new wire can be problematic but you probably have a board below the driver in the outside compartment with plenty of ground posts. 

2008 HR Scepter hydraulic slide
Tom Cherry 15 hours ago

2 hours ago, WilPaul35 said:

Slide bottoms appear in good shape, topic for another day.  Right now I have a pump issue it appears.  Was moving curb side slide in and out just fine, and was working on purging any trapped air as Tom had suggested.  Road side slide started to go out evenly after running in and out a short distance a few time. When slide was out about 8" everything stopped. Neither side would now do anyrhing.  Checked voltage to pump, 12V present. Disconnected and cleaned 12V supply to pump solenoid.  Solenoid clicks when slide control is depressed.  Noticed odd light when pushing extendcside of either switch, pulled control panel out and found a tailight bulb wired in. (see attached pictures).  Not sure what to think of that, does not look factory.  When pump was working did not see any illumination behind control panel from that light, just after pump stopped.

NOPE….nothing like that.  OK….back to basics.

First…verify that the resettable circuit breaker in the FRB is an 80A.  Print calls for that.  In 2009, Monaco goofed…150A.  Told Lippert that and the paniced…

Next up.  Look at Pump motor.  Pull the nuts ans cables off.  Tighten up, snugly, the lock nut on each stud.  The stud is like a carriage bolt.  If it is loose…mega high resistance connection.  Yes…I spent at least 5 years chasing a ghost.  
 

NOW….behind the panel.  There is a harness that comes from the switches.  This whole DIODE scheme or scenario has been debated, then finally debunked here.  Pull my 2009 Camelot prints….all the same as yours.  There is a front slide print.  On the print, you will see a diode matrix.  The diodes prevent backfeeding of the switches.  Lippert had 3 different part numbers.  That harness is the one that mates up with the multi-pin connector on the pump package harness.  That “Lippert” interface harness contains the diodes.  We have had members cut theirs apart…and they were differnt…so they said….you have wrong.  Lippert flipped and flopped.

Bottom line, very FEW techs even KNOW about this harness.  Some have had a whole NEW pump package ( reservoir, base, solenoids, big solenoid, etc) put in.  OPPS….the old one was FINE. The harness that was the issue

OK….here’s the skinny….

https://www.monacoers.org/search/?q=Lippert diode&quick=1&type=forums_topic

I really WONDER what the light is.  BUT…if you use my 2009 print and follow the circuit and test.  The switches are simple.  Both are momentary contact.  As long as you have the 12 VDC, which is controlled by a Lockout relay, then each switch sends out 12 VDC.  Those 4 signals are NOT used nor should be used behind the control panel.  The Lippert adapter harness is at the pump…and the gory details are in one or both of the two topics….

Print out the circuit….the test and mark the print.  This is wild….Maybe a downstream bad diode….and they compensated with a bulb…which is acting as a resistor to block the feedback.  Any OTHER bulbs in there….if a “real genius” did this and one of the bulbs burned out….replace it.  WILD!!!

White-Rogers 586-105111
Tom Cherry 15 hours ago

2 minutes ago, VinceB said:

After going over the materials again, I see your point and will do exactly as you suggest. No sense making more work of this than necessary.

If it any consolation….you made my day and also saved yourself a lot of grief and work, and perhaps….”confusion”.  Rock on, bro!

Need New VELVAC Mirrors for ‘02 Windsor
JayoSCV 15 hours ago

Been searching around and looking for some used mirrors. I can’t bring myself to order new mirrors from Pacific just yet. 
 

anyone sitting on any they would like to move in from? 

HWH Leveling operations
Ivan K 15 hours ago

Sounds like some good size leak(s), bags, fittings, sixpacks. Shouldn't be that hard to find them with bubbly water to at least slow them down, with the system off and then focus on the rest. It could be that just one corner is dropping and the system is compensating by dropping the rest. Hard to tell without details.

Medallion Ga
Ken Smith 15 hours ago

I have already run a 12 gauge wire from the outside drivers side run bay connected to the main ground lug into the back side of the dash area inside coach. I found a Packard 430 female connector on  passenger shade ground  connector that they had not crimped the wire. At least now when I don't have headlights on the shade works as designed.  I'm sure it's a bad ground or power load issue caused by bad crimp in a molex connector some where. Also just confirmed I have the MEDALLION speedometer gauge with built in MMCD like Tom was describing in his post.

White-Rogers 586-105111
jacwjames 14 hours ago

In 2021 I started to question whether my charging system was working correctly.   I tested everything but for some reason the Lambert 415 was clicking none stop.  At the time the Bluesea option was just being discussed, it looked promising and at the time it was ~$170.  So I bought it and installed and it has worked flawlessly ever since.  I removed the Isolation solenoid, BIRD, and Lambert and installed the Bluesea where the Isolation Solenoid was mounted.  Also installed the switch on the dash! I'd do it again in a heart beat.

When I converted a 250 Transit van for my wife I installed a second battery and installed a Bluesea to isolate the two batteries so she wouldn't run down the chassis battery while parked. 

 

AC Recharge
BennieH 14 hours ago

Something to watch for if you are losing refrigerant, make sure that the caps for the ports are correct and that the seal (O-ring inside the cap) is there and not missing.

Last year we kept losing pressure, I put UV Leak detector in the system, recharged it and run it for several hours. No leak anywhere using an ultraviolet lamp at night. Put caps on and 2 days later started up to check .... low on refrigerant again! Went to add R134a and test, I could hear the leaking as I took off the low side cap. dye all over the place. long story short - when cap was put on it slightly pressed on the Schraeder valve allowing a leak. Found cap seal was missing and it would lightly touch the Schraeder valve stem. Bought new caps, system stays charged and no leaks anywhere! 

Need New VELVAC Mirrors for ‘02 Windsor
jacwjames 14 hours ago

What is wrong with your mirrors.

Back in ~2009 I broke one of my mirrors off going through a narrow toll booth.  Contacted Velvac and bought the part from them. 

2007 Cayman - Will not start. Assistance needed.
rcp2255 14 hours ago

2007 Monaco Cayman XL

Got ready to leave today turned the key and dash engaged but won't start.  Don't hear the startee at all.  Had batteries check and they are good.  I've checked the fuses that I can think of.  Newer ignition switch.  Any advice is welcomes

Thank you.

UPDATE CARB (California Air Resource Board) as applies to Motorhome
brokenarrow1244 14 hours ago

Received the letter from ARB and went to the CARB / and Clean Truck Check web sites.  I registered my Motorhome and found my way through the supplied forms. Now I await the responses and what fees they impose from 2023 and 2024.

I come due to renew DMV registration in January2025.

I was surprised that there was no previous notification about this issue. 

Hope for the best but expect the worst.

Lots of horror stories... 

Cleaning Windshield
FishAR 14 hours ago

Been through lots of things so far. State Farm immediately approved Coach Glass.

State Farm thought I meant I wanted to go to Elkhart, which was incorrect. The CoachGlass lady emailed and I straightened this up. Elkhart is over 600 miles north of me. She said they'd try to find an approved local installer. When she found one, they wanted pics. This kind of threw up a red flag to me since if they'd replaced a windshield or windshields in Monaco's before wouldn't they know what one looked like? I sent the pic, she emailed me back that they were very high in their price compared to installs in the entire nation, so she'd need to get additional approvals from State Farm. 

I asked if they would install the windshield in my 50x100 shop with level concrete floor. They said no, had to bring it to them. So on a whim I went to their place. No door big enough to take my motorhome inside. Building is only 36 ft and motorhome is 43 ft.  So obviously they were going to do it in the parking lot. Trouble is I saw no place in the parking lot big enough to park my motorhome, so that means putting it in the grass somewhere...

I emailed her back and said I was refusing the services of The Glass Doctor and would just get it done at their Lakeland Florida facility on my way to the resort next fall. I felt better using a shop that I knew had done these before.

Dr4Film recommends them so I figure they're good. Asked how soon I'd have to get a definite appt., haven't received a reply yet.

 

2007 Cayman - Will not start. Assistance needed.
CLIFF918 13 hours ago

This might sound simple but are all your slides retracted?

AC Recharge
Venturer 13 hours ago

Thanks. We're going out to ID to visit our daughter over the 4th and will just use the generator with the roof AC. I'll get back to trouble shooting the system after the trip. Maybe mine will be a simple fix too. 😎

Both air tanks lose air together
Tom Cherry 13 hours ago

2 hours ago, bmulvenna@hotmail.com said:

Found a leak in the air dryer. Will order a new one. Not sure if this is the total solution but will find out.

I again checked for leaks in all fittings on both front and rear tank, door seal, air horn, park brake, dash guages, all 3 6 packs, tag pressure, govenor, drain valves, step, brakes, air bags, etc and found no leaks. Only the leak in the dryer. Will report back if new dryer fixed the issue.

Thanks for all the suggestions.

Mike

Like the proverbial pachyderm….one common sense bite at a time….

FASS Installation Question
wamcneil 13 hours ago

On 6/27/2024 at 5:40 PM, tmw188 said:

Yeah report back on that please.

On the subject of possible degradation in the hoses….

After pulling out the hose from the primary filter to the original lift pump, I’m seeing a black coating inside the fitting on both ends. Same from lift pump to secondary filter. Final hose from secondary filter to CAPS is much cleaner looking. 
At this point I don’t have any direct evidence that the hose is degraded, but the logistics of dragging a rag and solvent through the hose to try and make it squeaky-clean, plus it’s stiffness and the 90deg fitting on the caps end makes me feel like it’s best to replace. 
So I’ve ordered 10’ of 1/2” fuel hose and 5/8JIC fittings to just replace it. 
I don’t think there’s any good reason to go back with 5/8” hose. 

2007 Cayman - Will not start. Assistance needed.
Benjamin 13 hours ago

Have you done anything different since the last time you started it?

Oil Leaking From Hub
Benjamin 13 hours ago

I'm not worried about the differential running out of oil. I'm worried about the wheel bearings running out of oil, and more importantly, what's going on in there to cause the leak, that could escalate fast without enough oil.  At least take some sloping turns to keep the oil distributed side to side, and remove the cover, as long as it's leaking you're ok, when it stops leaking you're in trouble. 

FASS Installation Question
tmw188 12 hours ago

52 minutes ago, wamcneil said:

 
So I’ve ordered 10’ of 1/2” fuel hose and 5/8JIC fittings to just replace it. 
I don’t think there’s any good reason to go back with 5/8” hose. 

Thanks for the report back, however to me the good reason would be that’s what it was originally?

Need New VELVAC Mirrors for ‘02 Windsor
Donflem 12 hours ago

Send me some pictures I’ll check with my buddy at M&M he’s got a lot of mirrors in his shop.

Don

FASS Installation Question
wamcneil 12 hours ago

Well… in the original configuration, 5/8 was probably justified …

Originally, the CAPS pump was sucking fuel through two filters, a lift pump and 40 feet of hose. Now it’s being force-fed fuel at 15psi by a pump that can push at least three times the necessary volume. 
I’m pretty confident that the last 9’ of 1/2” hose won’t create a measurable pressure drop. 
 

Replacement bulb
Donflem 11 hours ago

M4 system in calif

Both air tanks lose air together
Sjholt12 11 hours ago

Just a suggestion, spray the bottom of the wet tank.

FASS Installation Question
wamcneil 11 hours ago

How are you guys connecting the relay to the lift pump wires to fool the ECM?

Just cutting off the plug and crimping to the wires? Or does someone know what kind of plug for the original connector?
 

UPDATE CARB (California Air Resource Board) as applies to Motorhome
Les Hurdle 10 hours ago

If one goes to AAA will they do everything?

L

Oil Leaking From Hub
jacwjames 10 hours ago

On the rear axle the oil in the main gear housing is what supplies the oil for the outer bearings.  I'd check to see if you can see any oil on the inside of the hub. 

I'd fill up the oil in the main house before you drive. 

FASS Installation Question
Rgoodman 10 hours ago

8 minutes ago, wamcneil said:

How are you guys connecting the relay to the lift pump wires to fool the ECM?

Just cutting off the plug and crimping to the wires? Or does someone know what kind of plug for the original connector?
 

I just cut the original connector off and used a crimp connector and used this relay

FASS Installation Question
tmw188 10 hours ago

To be honest I forgot how I did mine exactly, but I believe I did something with the connector to where I could reverse it if I needed to while out on the rd. I left the primary filter in place. After a few yrs though I think the lift pump probably wouldn’t be reusable anymore? 
 

UPDATE CARB (California Air Resource Board) as applies to Motorhome
VinceB 10 hours ago

39 minutes ago, Les Hurdle said:

If one goes to AAA will they do everything?

L

I don't think so. When I went to AAA the first time, there was a hold on my tags. I had recently I paid my DMV fees and the CARB fees online. Having a receipt in hand for the CARB fees still would not enable AAA to bypass the hold. I went back to AAA 3 weeks later (after CARB had shared that I had paid) and walked out with my tags. 

My best advise is to pay CARB online, wait 3-4 weeks, then go to AAA to pay the DMV fees. . OR pay both online and wait hoping CARB and DMV do their jobs.

It would be nice if AAA was authorized to collect the CARB fees but, I think, because it is a different agency from DMV, they cannot  - for now at least.

Small Improvements.
BradHend 10 hours ago

Decided to defer a day at the campsite due to the weather this weekend here in Ontario Canada.  Heading out tomorrow instead.  
With that said, I finally had some time to complete a few little upgrades I’ve had on the back burner for some time now.  
Got the CB Radio installed, powered off the spare wire from the OEM Radio switch to a dedicated rocker switch on the drivers console to act as a sub-master I guess we could call it.  PO already had the antenna mounted but there was no radio when I purchased the rig.  
I have also now realized that my coach utilizes a ‘DIN and a half’ OEM radio, as I was going to replace with an apple CarPlay compatible radio, now I have to come up with a solution for that.  🙄 
Also replaced the original cigarette lighter 12v outlets with USB style plugs.  Had to enlarge the hole slightly to get them fit.  These are also now controlled on a dedicated switch on the drivers console as I didn’t want them left on if not needed to be.  
Last thing was a dedicated USB power supply for my Bluefire Tablet and a spare female usb connector behind it for the GPS or whatever.  This was powered off a spare ignition circuit I found in the mess of wiring on the drivers console.  
Gave the rig a much needed scrub down and on the exterior while i was at it.  Very noticeable to me and my wife and just super satisfying to have it all cleaned up finally.  

Happy Canada Day/Fourth of July everyone! Safe travels. 

Oil Leaking From Hub
96 EVO 9 hours ago

55 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

On the rear axle the oil in the main gear housing is what supplies the oil for the outer bearings.  I'd check to see if you can see any oil on the inside of the hub. 

I'd fill up the oil in the main house before you drive. 

I would as well ! That's a pretty big leak, and worth checking if the nut's on the axle are tight before moving on!

Assuming it's the axle end gasket, I'd expect to see big pieces of it missing.

Both air tanks lose air together
96 EVO 9 hours ago

1 hour ago, Sjholt12 said:

Just a suggestion, spray the bottom of the wet tank.

Yours rusted right through?

AC, furnace and Aqua-Hot
Chris and Donna 9 hours ago

Hello, I need help with front AC, furnace and heater craft heat exchangers in the front of our 2006 Navigator.  We may have to change out the original front AC and are currently waiting on a new fan motor, and if that does not get AC portion working according to tech, then it will need replaced. So  I need to know all about this so we can get it back to original working order (suspect it is not correct now).

What we have

2 Dometic CCC 5 button thermostats (both 2006)

3 Dometic Duo Therm rooftop AC’s ducted (all 3 2006)

Aqua-Hot 100-04S and heat exchangers in bedroom, under shower sink, under toilet sink (with multiplex fan switch),  under kitchen cabinet with ducting to toe kick register and behind couch, this unit has a Heater Craft off, low, medium, and high fan control on lower cabinet.

In the bedroom on the dual zone thermostat, zone 1 is bedroom exchanger, zone 2 controls the shower area exchanger. The toilet room has an exchanger fan switch for that exchanger. All of this works for cooling, heat pumps and furnace.

Currently the front AC has as far as I can tell the original control board. The board has dip switches but the furnace dip switch is not on. The control board does have 2 data cables plugged in. I have tried setting dip to furnace and do a reset on thermostat but furnace never shows up on screen.

I have read on Irv2 that the coach's heat switch on the kitchen cabinet powers the exchanger for the cabinet toe kick vent, the under couch vent and the cockpit center vent if equipped. I have been unable to confirm this functionality as the switch does not do anything and I have so far been unable to test.

This thread talks about the order of use as

1. Turn on AquaHot (let it heat)
2. Turn on wall thermostat for heat, furnace never shows up.
3. Turn on Heater Craft Heat Exchangers, not working as furnace not on.

Oil Leaking From Hub
vito.a 9 hours ago

Yes, the outer axle bearing is lubed from the differential oil.  That's why it's important to maintain the correct oil level.  

This differential axle oil leak is very common.  The chrome center cover comes off by removing every other lug nut.  This is a very easy repair except it takes 400 ft lbs to remove a lug nut.  

The coach weight is supported by the full floating axle bearings, but I jack the side up to avoid losing more oil.    

Then you remove the axle retaining nuts and the axle just slides out.

Scrape the old paper gasket clean on both the axle and the hub.  You can install a new paper gasket and it will eventually leak again.  Or you can use some Ultra Grey gasket sealer and seal it permanently.  The only downside is it makes the axle more difficult to remove next time.  

Then make sure you top off the differential gear oil. 

Good luck! 

New (To Us) 2016 Diplomat 43DF - Round 2
Chuck-Kathy_Orlando 9 hours ago

Well... today, we finally picked up our 'new to us' 2016 Diplomat 43DF.
 

The dealer did a WONDERFUL job of cleaning it, replacing all 8 tires, brand new inverter, new water pump relay, and will be replacing the drivers side window (it's foggy and FL state law requires it to be replaced).
 

As suspected, it won't fit in the driveway! Yeah, I do a little bit of tearing up the grass... I have to figure out another option!

New (To Us) 2016 Diplomat 43DF - Round 2
BradHend 8 hours ago

Wow.  Very nice Coach.  Congratulations and I wish you nothing but safe travels and good times.  

HWH Leveling operations
Rboss22 8 hours ago

7 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Should be a 12v system.

Do you use 'AUTO' mode when you level? 

If so, and you leave the leveling system on, it should wake up every couple of hours, check the level, make any adjustments needed, then go back to 'sleep' for another couple of hours.

This is, if everything in the system is functional!

It auto levels when I hit level. I am thinking the aux compressor has an issue as it is not waking up to maintain level. 

HWH Leveling operations
96 EVO 8 hours ago

Just now, Rboss22 said:

It auto levels when I hit level. I am thinking the aux compressor has an issue as it is not waking up to maintain level. 

Have you ever heard it running?

New (To Us) 2016 Diplomat 43DF - Round 2
Chuck-Kathy_Orlando 8 hours ago

22 minutes ago, BradHend said:

Wow.  Very nice Coach.  Congratulations and I wish you nothing but safe travels and good times.  

Thanks Brad!  We are hoping to make a trip to ON and head west to AB and BC!   I've worked on many wind farms for my company in ON, AB, QC, and one in MB over the last 15 years!

HWH Leveling operations
Ivan K 8 hours ago

I don't know what system is in 2005 Nav but our HWH would not run the compressor until it can't level by deflating anymore. That can take a looong time, weeks+ without hearing it kick in. This is why I suggested finding out which corner is causing the drop, with leveling off. It should be a decent leak if it only takes hours.

2007 Cayman - Will not start. Assistance needed.
Steve Maurer 7 hours ago

My 05 Safari Cheetah had similar problem.

Check key Fuse in Monaco box #

 

Small Improvements.
Tom Wallis 5 hours ago

Nice job. How much do you use your CB? My new to me 2002 HR Imperial came with a CB. I've been considering removing it. I used CBs a lot many years ago but wasn't sure if it would be of much use now.

UPDATE CARB (California Air Resource Board) as applies to Motorhome
Les Hurdle 5 hours ago

My tags are due next April...........  when should one do this CARB thing?

Apperently not required in Arizona !!

UPDATE CARB (California Air Resource Board) as applies to Motorhome
VinceB 4 hours ago

50 minutes ago, Les Hurdle said:

My tags are due next April...........  when should one do this CARB thing?

Apperently not required in Arizona !!

Right away - if you have not paid your CARB fees yet, you are out of compliance.

AZ has their own requirements: Paint on the roof
John C 4 hours ago

I am preparing some area on the roof to mount struct channel, looks like the previous owner has painted the roof really good. some area even remove 1/8" or even more white stuff before I see the red roof.
I am starting to question what I removed, did it white stuff I removed were paint or fiber glass. if those white stuff are paint/primer, the previous owner must have dumped 50 gallons of paint/primer on the roof.
I actually used a planner , it just took too much time to remove by power sander. from the material it doesn't look like primer/paint, but if it is fiberglass, how come it is not red, does Dynasty has two layer color for the roof, white on top and red under?
Please advise.
Thank you.

 

Ran Out Of Fuel - Now What
Jdw12345 4 hours ago

On 6/28/2024 at 9:23 AM, dl_racing427 said:

I know it's common practice, but I've never quite grasped the logic in this.
It seems like a small sump should be included, to allow the pickup to get all the fuel, and count on the filters to catch any contaminates.
That should KEEP the tank clean, instead of pushing the inevitable problem down the road until it's a major issue.

I modified the tank on my Cobra to add a sump, running the outlet and return lines directly to the sump.
After the first couple tanks, I did catch a bit of aluminum chips left over from building the tank, in the pre-filter, but after cleaning those out, it's never had another problem.

My trucks were all Catarpillar powered, so that’s what I know, on the early Cat’s (early 80’s to late 90’s, 3406 and 3408 series) there was a fuel transfer pump that supplied the injection pump with fuel, it was a plunger type pump mounted under the air compressor on the side of the block with 3 one way replaceable valves and a couple of O rings, it ran off of a lobe on the cam (if I remember correctly), if you should happen to get some water in the fuel and it was cold out, like well below freezing cold, and that water froze and passed through the pump it would take out one of those one way valves, you were done making forward progress! I carried a complete replacement pump and extra O rings and one way valves, If you’ve ever driven between Rawlings Wy and Casper Wy (115 miles if my memory serves me correctly) in the middle of the night and it’s -35 you want clean fuel going through the system! I installed a cleanable fuel filter ahead of the fuel transfer pump that would catch all of the crap that passed through it, slim, water and any other material that was in the fuel, you could take it apart, remove the screen, clean it, install a new head seal screw it back on and pump the primer pump on the main filter head and fire it up and roll again. I’ve never owned a Cummins till I purchased this coach so I can’t speak for Cummins or there reasoning on their fuel systems. I did know a couple of people that ran Alaska from Mn that had Cummins powered trucks and I know when there ordered their trucks they ordered stand pipe fuel draw vs bottom draw. It’s all on how you want to spec out your truck when you order it! I also had what was called Arctic Fox fuel heaters in my fuel tanks, and for the record the 10 years i ran my 87 Pete to California from Mn I never froze up or gelled up! Thank goodness! 
 

 

Ran Out Of Fuel - Now What
Preston W 4 hours ago

Very interesting. You may have the most prepared fuel tank around. It did seem crazy to me to just let sludge built up in the bottom of a tank and put the inlet hose above perhaps the last 110 or 15 gallons.  We were coming back from Yuma and my gauge was about on empty on the Monaco and I pulled into a truck stop, actually ran out of fuel as coasted up. So I was able to carefully fill the entire tank. Capacity was 102 gallons and it took about 90.

 

New Downloads

Daisy Chaining Surge Suppressors
Tom Cherry Friday at 11:23 PM

This document describes the rationale for installing a redundant or supplemental surge protection via daisy chaining a MOV surge suppressor to protect the OEM Surge Guard Suppressor ATS 40350.  …

2008 Knight Wiring diagrams
Steve P Thursday at 06:42 PM

PDF files in color totalling 64 pages from Rev Co depicting house and chassis wiring... priceless!

2012 Dynasty Wiring Diagrams
Frank McElroy Wednesday at 10:49 PM

Although this is not a complete set of wiring diagrams, it's what we have so far.  If anyone has any other 2012 Dynasty wiring diagrams, please send them to me so I can add them to this file.

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