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Here's what the Monacoers have been talking about:
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Discussions
4rickyg
I installed the new capacitor. A c is back to working like it should.$60 from amazon. Thanks to the group for the help.. now on to the next project.lol😊
Superpro14
What is Road Force Balancing and what procedure do they use?
Thanks
Jeff H
This is very interesting, as my house batteries have stopped charging while driving. They have never charged while on shore power, which, unless we were parked for weeks, was not an issue. I have a trickle charger I plug into the block heater outlet if we are going to be parked for an extended period of time.
I have a couple of questions:
1. is the remote dash switch necessary? If my chassis battery is charging on shore power, the only time I would need a boost would be after storage, which with the battery switch turned off, has never been a problem. I have a jump pack just for such occasions.
2. IF the remote switch is necessary, is there a chase or conduit somewhere for the wiring?
Todd P
You have a one piece fiberglass roof. It appears you have scraped it down to the wood material underneath.
BradHend
Sounds like a good trip!
Gotta ask though, who installs your Wind Turbine lifts? I installed a couple Avanti lifts in a small wind farm in Rodney Ontario but then a couple guys from our office left and started up their own business installing the lifts all over Canada. Power Climber is what they mainly install now.
Cubflyer
I think you did good Tom E, only way it could have worked out cheaper (and I’m not sure what the tow cost) was if you had taken the collectives advice and found that the leak was slow enough to drive it to the shop. (Not good for the environment, but…). Pretty clearly the leak had nothing to do with the tire changes… just a ‘when it rains it pours’….. literally… Price wise, prices have changed since 2017, my parts last fall were closer to $1000.00 and if I had it to do over I would have been more than glad to pay someone else to remove and replace it. It is very heavy and mounted in an awkward location and takes some skill to get it rigged correctly. Two people at some point is helpful and it involves inside and outside the coach duties.
Just my opinion….
Ken
Tom Cherry
1 hour ago, Jeff H said:This is very interesting, as my house batteries have stopped charging while driving. They have never charged while on shore power, which, unless we were parked for weeks, was not an issue. I have a trickle charger I plug into the block heater outlet if we are going to be parked for an extended period of time.
I have a couple of questions:
1. is the remote dash switch necessary? If my chassis battery is charging on shore power, the only time I would need a boost would be after storage, which with the battery switch turned off, has never been a problem. I have a jump pack just for such occasions.
2. IF the remote switch is necessary, is there a chase or conduit somewhere for the wiring?
Two comments. You have, I think, a totally different system. Tied up today, but suggest you post a scan or photos from your manual. You PROBABLY have the real Big Boy. Depending on what you have, if my guess…and I’ll try to research later, you need to troubleshoot.
Second….there was a complete write up or topic on the ML-ACR. Please search that in both Topics and Files. Your specific question about the new remote or boost switch was addressed. I wrote it after a lot of research and circuit review and talking to Blue Seas.
First….NOPE…you do NOT actually need the new remote or Boost. Jumping out and manually controlling it will work. This is NOT RECOMMENDED by Blue Seas.
Second, the additional YELLOW wire is a safeguard. Its purpose is to give you INSTANT ERROR or MALFUNCTION. It monitors the unit. So if a short or error occurs…you KNOW to stop and find would why the ML-ACR was not working. The tech was MORE than adamant about doing the full proper installation.
Personally…the newer systems like yours were misunderstood. If you have the Intellitec BIRD and Big Boy setup, I’d diagnose and test. Then….determine the cost of fixing…they are reliable. So find out what’s wrong rather than shotgunning $$ at it. But, if you say….NOPE, I’m upgrading….then the consensus….do it properly…..otherwise fix and stick with what you’ve got.
Let us know….I’ll try to help later with your prints…
tmw188
13 hours ago, tmw188 said:
To be honest I forgot how I did mine exactly, but I believe I did something with the connector to where I could reverse it if I needed to while out on the rd
Here’s what I did. I used the connector at the lift pump to wire the new pigtail up to the relay. I left the wires coming from the lift pump long enough and taped them up so that if I had to reverse it later I could, then I put caps on the pump.
RBRODDER
I wouldn't think that he sanded down to plywood, but sanded off the gel coat down to the fiberglass. Seems a little extreme either way unless he is planning on glassing in the "struct channel "
Dr4Film
It's a beauty!
I would imagine that your HOA will not let you keep it parked there for very long.
We bought in Flagler Beach where you ARE allowed to park your RV at your house providing it follows the rules of the city. One of two reasons we went from Full-Time to Part-Time RVing. Our previous 02 Windsor would fit right under the house but I haven't tried doing it with the Dynasty yet.
Dr4Film
Bottom-line, you removed too much! In my opinion, you didn't need to remove anything just to mount your "structural" channel.
Dr4Film
I removed my Velvac mirrors from my 02 Windsor years ago and installed brand new Ramco Triple Head Heated, Fully Remote Embedded LED Turn Signal with Embedded In-Vue Cameras I had purchased from a surplus supplier on eBay.
Love the Ramco versus the Velvac.
If the arms need re-chroming, send them to Space Coast Platting in Melbourne FL. You won't be disappointed.
jacwjames
I worked at a business that built refrigerated trucks, spent a summer in the fiberglass department doing an internship while I was getting my MS Industrial Engineering. The process of building one of the larger pieces was to take a large form, spry a chemical release chemical, spray down the gel coat, then multiple layers of woven fiberglass and epoxy. After it cured the piece was separated from the form. The result was smooth finished side with a fiberglass body.
I believe Monaco used the same process and made the roof in one piece.
So what you've done is sand completely through the gel coat and you are in the fiberglass/epoxy portion. Hopefully you did not take too much of the fiberglass and epoxy, if you did you've seriously compromised the strength of the roof IMHO.
Not sure what options you have, at minium putting layer of gelcoat down, but you might consider a layer of fiberglass mat and epoxy before the gelcoat.
Or you could go ahead and attach the channel that is in the picture to the roof as you are doing the above, using epoxy/mat on either side and then paint it.
Dr4Film
Snowflakes!
Mine is exactly where Frank described it to be, on the ceiling right in front of the Magnum Inverter/Charger
I still have to test the trigger wire to see if they may have hooked it to the chassis batteries instead of the house batteries.
My AGS has yet to work when my house batteries get too low so I am fairly certain that they hooked it up wrong.
I just need to confirm and correct.
jacwjames
During my AK trip in 2009 I got a rock chip and then about a 1' crack, stopped at a shop in Fairbanks and they drilled a hole and then pumped epoxy into the hole/crack. This lasted until I could get back home to TN
Contacted my insurance company, they used Duncan for RV windshield. Problem is Duncan used a local shop that did a poor job setting the windshield About a year later we were in FL and the windshield shifted, I had a large gap in passenger side lower corner, could stick a pencil through it. Called Duncan, they actually had a shop close by and they said they'd reset it for free. We had it done but couldn't spend the night there so had to drive to our next stop. Windshield still shifts a little but not bad.
GoWestMan
First time posting, Hope its ok to jump on someone else's post... my suspension air bags stay up for days but the tank for my air brakes leak down from 110 lb to 50 lb within minutes. Like if I stop to refuel I have to wait a minute to air up before I can leave the pumps. Very inconvenient and Im sure my compressor is running more than it should.
When Im under my Crown Royale (92) after its shut off, I can hear an intermittent 'moaning' noise coming from the tank on the front passenger side. Getting as close as I can and feeling the different valves it feels like a fitting on the top of the tank is 'moaning'/vibrating ever so slightly as it releases air.
Where do those valves route to? Is there a way to test them besides a bubble test because its very hard to see up there?
If I was guessing it sounds like some kind of check valve thats not holding. Is there a check valve on top of the tank?
John C
OMG, WHAT HAVE I DONE!
I Should have asked this group first before I went so far.
The reason I sanded so much is because when it rains, a lot of paint got washed down to the walls, so I got the impression that there are lot of paint there.
Also I thought the roof should be red, so as long It is not red, it is not fiberglass.
Thank you so much!
Dr4Film
1 minute ago, John C said:The reason I sanded so much is because when it rains, a lot of paint got washed down to the walls, so I got the impression that there are lot of paint there.
The white chalking running down from the roof onto the walls is from the unpainted roof. A good coat of Marine Decking Paint will eliminate the chalking.
I had my 02 Windsor painted with Tuff Coat. One coat of 2-part epoxy primer and three coats of the rubberized Tuff Coat paint. 3 coats as I had purchased too much and didn't want to throw it away.
John C
One question, if I just lightly sand the surface, will the gel coat be able to hold the 3M 5200 glue?
birdshill123
Roadaster was the brainwave wave of some Chrysler engineers. It became Roadmaster Rail. But this was when Chrysler was going bankrupt. Travco/Foretavel did use 3 of these gas engine chassis. Apparently they used a chev engine, Ford and Mopar. I do not know know how Monaco acquired the rights to the chassis and the name. It was and is light years ahead of other Dp chassis.
96 EVO
9 minutes ago, John C said:One question, if I just lightly sand the surface, will the gel coat be able to hold the 3M 5200 glue?
Yes. Light sand and a good cleaning.
Paul J A
20 hours ago, JayoSCV said:Been searching around and looking for some used mirrors. I can’t bring myself to order new mirrors from Pacific just yet.
anyone sitting on any they would like to move in from?
Salvage yards??
birdshill123
Be aware that many FL shops are not familiar with amything other than their own chassis. Thay charge almost $200 an hour. Some even add 10% for shop supplies. You will be paying a fortune for the mechanic to learn about Monaco.
John C
I am getting ready to run the wires from the fridge vent, there are only two locations above the fridge vent where I can drop the wire all the way down .
First one is on the left corner, but the boiler tube(gas burner chimney) is right next to it. I guess I can wrap the wires with those tapes for high temperature environment, but it is still not ideal.
The 2nd one is in the middle of the fridge, but there are two pipes in the middle, I am not sure if those two pipe will get hot and how hot will those be when fridge is running. if no , then that will be the perfect place.
Please advise.
Thank you.
Best chassis battery purchase chassis options?
birdshill123
Once you put oil into a battery you cannot use an hydrometer to test the battery.
Rikadoo
Hey i have read old posts, an actually found similar posts, however the results were so tremendous i thought bringing this to the group was warranted.
Customer brought there 2005 coach with a Cat engine to us to address severel issues, one of them being seems slow when cranking, they had been elsewhere where they were sold 2 new batteries. The result was the same, two fully charged batteries yielded what appeared to either be a starter or engine issue as it would engauge then struggle to crank over, but it would always start, so i had suspected possable Voltage drops mainly due to the visual cues i was seeing, after just one VD check of 4 volts accross the battery switch, i made the decision to clean all the connections, and replace the battery switch. The tool that helps with this the most is a angle drill with a small abrasive pad, disconnecting the batterys i started with them, to the frame where they had two different attaching points, on to the starter, cleaned both the ground and the positive connections, i replaced all the lock washers on every connection, and applied electrical grease on every spot as i was reassembling. As for the battery switch of course we recieved the wrong parts (my fault) so till we get the replacement part i reassembled it in case we had to move it. So rechecking for voltage drop at the same spot went from 4 volts to 1, however the results with that are amazing, the difference in the cranking performance are day an night, dont get me wrong it is nowhere near that of a gear reduction style starter, but it is all of what these old style starters could do in there prime. To be sure im positve that due to the extreamly low cranking amps that caused this starter to slow down may have accelerated the wear on the brushes and may be a problem down the road. But just knowing how with age and the derogation of connections that electrical performance can be effected. I bet with after preparing to do the job i had MAYBE 1 hour in removing an cleaning all the high amp connections. Also as you see the solinoid at the starter, when i was bidding the job i said i “would not” be removing the reverse torx bolt for fear it would snap, so you can tell that too has its issues, but for the damage that im sure the starter has endured had i not recieved the results i was aiming for the next step would have been to replace the entire starter, which i will still propose to the customer. For the battery switch i remained with the mfg. Cole Hersee which is still available on line, that in my haste of finding the proper wire configuration i failed to note the post size, i needed 1/2 inch an bought 3/8🤦♂️ “i was sooo close😂” 
jlynn37064
I did find the transmission control module. It was in the ceiling of the second pass through bay. There is an access panel but it only gave access to the leveling system. I had to remove the ceiling and was able to access the TCM. I did unplug and look for issues but found nothing. I’ve read post about a main ground cable but I didn’t see on is this bay. Is there a shop that will test and possibly rebuild my TCM?
Ivan K
I often wonder what is the deal with specialized chassis shops, only servicing a certain make chassis? In my view they all are just chunks of welded metal, everything else is off the shelf stuff, axles, brakes, steering and some bushings. The bags, air system, pretty much the same thing in principle.
dl_racing427
5 hours ago, Superpro14 said:What is Road Force Balancing and what procedure do they use?
Thanks
It's done on a machine that uses a roller to put force on the tire during the balance operation.
It's supposed to take any runout or varying stiffness into account, and compensate with balance weight.
It may be effective on passenger car tires, but I have my doubts it makes much difference on larger vehicles.
jacwjames
Wow, lots of rust, no wonder there are voltage problems. Wonder where the coach has spend most of it's life?
Keep us posted, always interesting to see how different problems are solved.
dl_racing427
15 hours ago, vito.a said:Yes, the outer axle bearing is lubed from the differential oil. That's why it's important to maintain the correct oil level.
This differential axle oil leak is very common. The chrome center cover comes off by removing every other lug nut. This is a very easy repair except it takes 400 ft lbs to remove a lug nut.
The coach weight is supported by the full floating axle bearings, but I jack the side up to avoid losing more oil.
Then you remove the axle retaining nuts and the axle just slides out.
Scrape the old paper gasket clean on both the axle and the hub. You can install a new paper gasket and it will eventually leak again. Or you can use some Ultra Grey gasket sealer and seal it permanently. The only downside is it makes the axle more difficult to remove next time.
Then make sure you top off the differential gear oil.
Good luck!
While I was in there, I'd check the seal for leakage, and check/adjust the bearing preload as well.
timaz996
You should have a factory buss bar for solar on the roof under your fridge vent cover.
dl_racing427
Unless there's a pushrod or some other reason to leave the lift pump, I'd make a block-off plate and just remove the pump completely.
Be aware, if there is a pushrod, it may also have an oil feed hole, and removing the pushrod would bleed off oil pressure.
granvillebarker
In reading the HWH docs that say you need their swagging tool to make up the hydraulic lines and you need to you their lines, what is the groups consensus on this?
I don't know if the original lines came from HWH, or Monaco swagged the ends on with a HWH tool or what, but the bottom line is these lines are failing, and if HWH lines / swagging are going to fail why order them instead of having a local hydraulic shop make up lines with their own tools.
HWH does not impress me as a very well run company. When customers have to wait days or weeks for a call back, something is not right with the company. If this were just a one-time thing I could understand it, but every time I have called HWH over the 20 years of having my coach, it's been the same backlog.
--
Granville Barker
05 Dynasty Countess
Ivan K
Just my opinion, if I was to replace a line, I would replace at least the two having same function as far as extension or retraction and made the the same lenght so that the sync cylinder does not run out of range. But I did not have to do it yet.
Tom Cherry
Suggest that you read the “search” results. Used key words PAINT & ROOF.
https://www.monacoers.org/search/?q=Paint roof&quick=1&type=forums_topic
Many knowledgeable members have contributed a lot and the topics in the list describe a wealth of knowledge specific to Monaco. Chris Throgmartin’s insights are from owning a reliable repair shop.
Don’t know your skill set, but a Pro Body Shop might be needed to fix… Having worked in a Boat factory as a summer job, your first priority needs to be covering (polytarps) the areas to prevent water infiltration. Then get the roof properly restored….THEN think about the solar array.
The real question is…is the red panel FIBERGLASS? First glance, it looks like it could be plywood….lets hope NOT!
SO….best case scenario….HOPEFULLY the damage is in the panel and not all the way through. The “1/8” thickness, if taken that far down is a great deal…and fixing it must be tailored to how BEST to do it and restore the structural integrity.
Having built and helped repair boats in a large factory, as a summer job…that started parttime in the early spring….this is my assessment.
Gel Coat is usually the top layer over the “panel” or a hull. We sprayed Gel Coat into a waxed mold….think a 20 ft mold for the hull of a runabout. That was like applying a thick coat of latex paint. Only is was an epoxy paint. It went on “lumpy”….and then we built up several layers or thicknesses of differing types of fiberglass . The “resin” is actually an epoxy and you mix hardener in…so, the layers of fiberglass and resin were chemically crosslinked or “bonded”. Don’t know how Monaco applied the top gel coat. It was NEVER meant as a paint. It will contine to chalk or leave white streaks. Jim and others have noted the concerns…so moving on.
I would watch a lot of Youtube videos. I’d actually do that myself to see what is new or some tricks.
IF…BIG IF, the dark red is the fiberglass roof panel, then the objective is to repair the ground out sections and get them smooth and level. They MUST be flat or flush after the repair. A steel ruler or steel straight edge must be used so, that there are no VALLEYS or pockets. Water will pond.
IF, yes, 1/8th inch was ground off….then there may be several layers needed to build the ground sections back up to smooth and flush. The first ones will be “MAT” or pressed fiberglass fibers. LOOK UP FG MAT. Maybe the first grade or such is thick.
The “abrading” step is already over. Wipe off with ACETONE….then use a small (narrow) paint roller and coat the surface. Lay down a long strip, precut, of mat and then a special “comb style” roller to squeegee out the air bubbles and get the matting fully saturated. Let it cure. Then HAND sand with maybe 100 grit paper and get rid of the splinters and needle. Knock down any high spots. Use the steel edge to see where they are. Blow off the dust, with a mask or respirator on, wipe off with Acetone. We had barrels of acetone. It removes dust, evaporates. It will NOT harm the epoxy gel coat…just use where you are repairing and use a cloth and don’t just pour it everywhere
The trick will be to get the build up coats high snd LEVEL and then put on a layer of fine fiberglass cloth. The trick with fiberglass resin….roll and roll and roll and work out the air pockets…
Once restored….follow the panting and such Instructions in the topics from the search. If there is to be a rail or frame for a solar….then attach it and paint up or recoat to it. Beware that dips snd valleys and such will collect water and dirt snd debris snd be s royal PITA and cause grief.
This is basically, undoing the grinding and restoration of the areas…
Maybe a Pro Body Shop job….as was posted….this repair or rebuilding the ground out areas to the previous thicknesses and flatness is essential….otherwise the structural integrity of the entire roof may be compromised…
Good Luck…
wamcneil
44 minutes ago, dl_racing427 said:Unless there's a pushrod or some other reason to leave the lift pump, I'd make a block-off plate and just remove the pump completely.
Be aware, if there is a pushrod, it may also have an oil feed hole, and removing the pushrod would bleed off oil pressure.
Well… CAPS lift pump is a part-time electric pump that runs for about 2-min after ignition on. Definitely not pushrods or oiling involved.
The lift pump housing is also a manifold where the fuel return line attaches. I’m not sure how the return fuel gets there, but I think it might be a port in the engine.
Making and installing a block off plate would be a major PITA. Lift pump is staying right where it’s at! 😬
GNRACN
Duracell available Sams Club 134.52 on line or check store for instock. Last I purchased were Startrite by East Penn from Napa on sale for 100.00 ea. in Casa Grande, AZ. are 925 at 0 but only have 6 month warranty. Been in for 16 mons. and Napa is everywhere. Also replaced 8/6V deep/cycle house batteries with 2/8D East Penn Manufactered batts. My experiance with 8Ds is 6 to 8 years with non deep cycle. Dry camping for us is two nights in a Walmart or a casino or racetrack. Jenny needs exersize anyways!🤑
Tom Cherry
1 hour ago, jlynn37064 said:I did find the transmission control module. It was in the ceiling of the second pass through bay. There is an access panel but it only gave access to the leveling system. I had to remove the ceiling and was able to access the TCM. I did unplug and look for issues but found nothing. I’ve read post about a main ground cable but I didn’t see on is this bay. Is there a shop that will test and possibly rebuild my TCM?
Here’s where it get’s tricky. There is no record, unless printed (supposedly) on a label or on the cover of the TCM as to the “programming” parameters. The shift points were determined (sometimes more of the “seat of the pants”) or “SET my Monaco. Each year, Allison, Monaco and the Engine supplier….their “tech reps” would review the shift points for PERFORMANCE and ECONMY modes. Usually just a carryover, unless Monaco changed the rear differential ratio.
NO RECORDS of this, by model exist. Allison says…. WE APPROVED…but Monaco never supplied us with them. Monaco ordered the TCM’s and sent them to a local (presumably Allison) shop to be programmed. I TRIED both Allison and Monaco….BRICK WALL…response….label or marked on the TCM…not in our data base.
SO….at this point….your best approach may be to get an Allison certified shop involved. They might fix the issue. You do NOT want someone “messing” around or doing unimaginable “things” to the TCM. If a TCM fails, the best hope….a dealer can read the parameters and reprogram….otherwise it is PURE GUESS. Now, if you know, exactly the level, medium acceleration shift point is for every upshift and downshift….then you could tell the tech. BUT the data was Monaco supplied was never published.
For example… the normal Up SHIFT for my tranny…either performance or economy is around 62 MPH…5 to 6. BUT…the downshift point in performance is about the same. It also upshifts around that in economy. But, in economy, it will drop as low as 56 MPH for the downshift. I know that from a LOT of observations and testing.
I have NO IDEA how that is “programmed” inside the TCM.
IF your TCM is toast….then you need to find a willing partner with the same engine, year, model, and REAR END ratio. They will have to go to an Allison shop for a program scan and download. You pay for that. They then have the critical data…free…
.
miacasa_2000
Okay I never heard back from anyone who said they would like some of this stuff so I'll try one more time. For the Norcold 1200 LRIM I have
1. All the wire and glass shelves including center support and side retainers. Including Freezer shelves.
2. All door bins (8) one large shelf bin. Including ice cube bin.
3. The door hinges.
4. Ice maker with valve and heat tape.
5. Cooling fans, high temp control.
Roy Mercier
2003 Dynasty
Both air tanks lose air together
Tom Cherry
3 hours ago, GoWestMan said:First time posting, Hope its ok to jump on someone else's post... my suspension air bags stay up for days but the tank for my air brakes leak down from 110 lb to 50 lb within minutes. Like if I stop to refuel I have to wait a minute to air up before I can leave the pumps. Very inconvenient and Im sure my compressor is running more than it should.
When Im under my Crown Royale (92) after its shut off, I can hear an intermittent 'moaning' noise coming from the tank on the front passenger side. Getting as close as I can and feeling the different valves it feels like a fitting on the top of the tank is 'moaning'/vibrating ever so slightly as it releases air.
Where do those valves route to? Is there a way to test them besides a bubble test because its very hard to see up there?
If I was guessing it sounds like some kind of check valve thats not holding. Is there a check valve on top of the tank?
Unless one is “qualified” or cerified to performce the DOT required Air System tests and such, I’d find a good OTR truck shop and say…leaking….fix it. The leak rate you quoted, unless I misunderstood, would FAIL….miserably, the AIR BRAKE TEST.
This is the USDOT Air Brake pretrip or performance test, in simple and easy to perform steps. If it fails….then figure out HOW to fix it or have a professional fix it. Driving it if it failed can be deadly…
Rgoodman
1 hour ago, dl_racing427 said:Unless there's a pushrod or some other reason to leave the lift pump, I'd make a block-off plate and just remove the pump completely.
Be aware, if there is a pushrod, it may also have an oil feed hole, and removing the pushrod would bleed off oil pressure.
You need to leave the old lift pump for the fuel return to the tank or bypass it for the return also. I see no need to go through that trouble.
Frank McElroy
If you have the old style AGS module with dial settings, it's likely bad. Monaco crimped the battery voltage sensing wire to the 12 volt battery cable at the inverter lug.
Tom Cherry
DITTO…there are many posts here. magnum either had a BAD run or it was a bad design. The Magnum tech support told me they USED to repair them and customer paid only parts. They were overwhelmed. They also admitted a faulty design and the NEW ONE. AGS-N is the replacment. It will plug and play, but Frank’s fix or suggestion on how to relocate the sensing wire makes sense. You have to choose a lower voltage for the AGS to “kick in”…as the voltage on the remote will just short cycle and cause you to recharge way too often. Mine is usually set to 11.8 VDC….that does NOT subject your house batteries to even close that. Read the Battery 101 file and it explains it.
John C
Unfortunately it is almost impossible to direction the wire to a place I can drop the wire to the bottom. I have to cut a open on top mesh net to drop the wirs.
Also I have 10 solar wires.
saflyer
1 hour ago, Ivan K said:I often wonder what is the deal with specialized chassis shops, only servicing a certain make chassis? In my view they all are just chunks of welded metal, everything else is off the shelf stuff, axles, brakes, steering and some bushings. The bags, air system, pretty much the same thing in principle.
That’s what I’m thinking, especially about headlights.
Dr4Film
The old dial AGS was replaced with a new AGS-N Model two years ago. I just need to trace the sense wire to make sure it is sensing the correct battery bank.
96 EVO
3 hours ago, GoWestMan said:
If I was guessing it sounds like some kind of check valve thats not holding. Is there a check valve on top of the tank?
Are you saying you can feel the air coming out of this valve? It could simply be a failing pressure relief valve!
It's really hard to diagnose, without seeing it! There's several different types of valves and fittings on each of your tanks!
John C
The red is fiberglass, one of the main reason I made the mistake is I saw other dynasty with red fiberglass roof and I never those about gel coat and other layer on top of that. On top of the, the previous owner must have put a ton of primer/paint on top it. When I looked at the red fiberglass, it has a lot of spider web line on it. I believe that is probably the reason the previous owner painted the roof to make it look better.
I did drill some hole for the well nuts to tied the channel to the fiberglass roof, it looks like the fiber glass still has quite bit depth. according to my brochure, my roof from top on: 1/4" fiberglass on top=> 3/1/2" tapered bead form => 1/4" marina grade plywood=>.... so there is no way I could have reached the plywood.
To make it absolutely safe, I will put another channel in the middle of the two channels I already put on(of course just lightly sand it).
It turned out the 3M 5200 glue is SO SO STRONG, there is no need to put any anchor , screws ,rivet,well nuts.
I tried to pull it out with all my power this morning (it won't be100% cured until 10 hr later) and it was not move a bit. I will have to tear the roof out in order to pull the struct channel out.
FASS Installation Question
Mick Adair
The return fuel from the caps goes to the lift pump at the banjo fittings and then goes back to the tank through the return line.
96 EVO
Yes, 3M5200 is waterproof and permanent!
Is the area you sanded thru the gelcoat under the bracket on the left on the top picture?
If so, that's your rear cap.
JohnC3
I am not sure of your fridge setup, but I suspect I am seeing a msb baffle from the outer edge of the RV inward to the fins to direct the airflow up through the fins to improve cooling. I would suggest verifying the baffle location from below and then going through the baffle. You can then secure the wires away from heat sources on the way down. My thought would be to make the hole large enough for 1 wire and an mc4 connector to fit through. Leave some slack above the fridge in case you ever need to pull the baffle (you shouldn't but just in case you need to remove it to work on the fan thermostat or something, you can add a disconnect if you need to in the future. ) my solor controller is in the void below the fridge, I went through the space behind the fridge but used the opportunity to get rid of the top vent as I replaced the original with a 12 compressor model.
Hope it helps and good luck,
John
Frank McElroy
By any chance do you have a rectangular solar junction box on the roof?
Paint on the roof
John C
53 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:Yes, 3M5200 is waterproof and permanent!
Is the area you sanded thru the gelcoat under the bracket on the left on the top picture?
If so, that's your rear cap.
Yes, 90% of sanded area is under the struct channel. the rest 10% I covered with Decor 501(the edge next to struct channel) and EternaBond RoofSeal tape
John C
50 minutes ago, Frank McElroy said:By any chance do you have a rectangular solar junction box on the roof?
The coach has a small one, which I am not going use because there is no way I could direct the wire to the place I want, I need to drop the wire from top of the vent.
I have 5 solar controller, so 5 pairs of solar wire, 3 pairs are 10 awg, 2 pairs are 6 awg, so the factory box is too small anyway.
for the 3 pairs with 10 awg, I am thinking directory run the wire from solar panel to the MTTP.
for the two 6 awg pairs , because that are for 4 panels, I will have to combine two pairs 10 awg from solar panel to 6 awg, I will use junction box to combine those wires.
1 hour ago, JohnC3 said:I am not sure of your fridge setup, but I suspect I am seeing a msb baffle from the outer edge of the RV inward to the fins to direct the airflow up through the fins to improve cooling. I would suggest verifying the baffle location from below and then going through the baffle. You can then secure the wires away from heat sources on the way down. My thought would be to make the hole large enough for 1 wire and an mc4 connector to fit through. Leave some slack above the fridge in case you ever need to pull the baffle (you shouldn't but just in case you need to remove it to work on the fan thermostat or something, you can add a disconnect if you need to in the future. ) my solor controller is in the void below the fridge, I went through the space behind the fridge but used the opportunity to get rid of the top vent as I replaced the original with a 12 compressor model.
Hope it helps and good luck,
John
So you think I should run my wires through the corner on the left? the two pipe in the middle is not a good idea? will those pipe get very hot?
Preferably I would like to run the wires straight down from middle of the two pipes but no sure if those two pipe are going to get very hot or not?
cbr046
You might post on Facebook Marketplace and iRV2. I sold my 1200 through FB
- bob
Twomed
Have you figured out access yet? Looked at mine on the left/fwd end and ??? I have had the closet side/driver side front off, and the wood fascia is Velcroed and a couple of headless brads at the top. Not sure that will get to the hyd lines though unless maybe they used a shorter slide mechanism on sink side.
Pics please whenever you do get it apart as we will all be in there someday. Thanks
Ivan K
Doug, does the suspect 'moaning' fitting has a line coming out of it? If you are talking about passenger half of the front tank, I would expect 2 lines going back from the top. The big one from drier, small one to governor. I have one more but that's optional from air leveling compressor. You should be able to take a phone picture of it too but the leak isn't necessarily there, it could be at the other end of the line.
jacwjames
In 2013 my wife was getting ready to head out on a trip. I took the coach and filled it up and parked it in front of the house on the street so I could hook up the toad. After the toad was hooked up I was going to check the lights/brakes. Went to start the rig and nothing, the rig won't start and the transmission display had snake eyes on it. For two days I checked everything I could check and finally called the Allision shop ~30 miles away and asked if they could send a tech out>>nope, nada, not a chance. They said they were short handed and I'd have to have the rig towed to their shop.
So arranged for a tow, the truck was coming into the subdivision while I was driving out headed to airport/Spain. Wife took over and made sure the coach got towed to the shop. Shop diagnosed a bad TCM, they didn't have one but one of their other shops did, ~100 miles away. To expedite the process my wife went and got the TCM and delivered it to the shop where the coach was at. They had to copy the programming from the old TCM but got the rig going in short order. Cost $3600.
I kept the old TCM just because and last year decided to look at the guts. Obvious there was a problem, large burnt/melted spot on the circuit board. I guess I could have looked inside, probably would have saved a couple days of me looking for the problem. It was pretty obvious.
Wife barely made it to the dog show in NY Finger Lakes area, pulled into the parking lot and handed her dog to a handler who volunteered to take it into the ring. Can't remember if it won or not.
George Rogers
George here, try info@rvyard.com, rvdoctorgeorge@gmail.com, visone rv parts 606-843-9889
dl_racing427
Sorry guys, I was thinking of my C-8.3 mechanical engine.
It has a lift pump on the side of the engine, I think powered by the camshaft.
Patricia Ferrara
Don’t know if this is applicable to your rig, but you might find it interesting, if not helpful.
Best of luck!
2008 HR Scepter hydraulic slide
WilPaul35
Still trouble shooting. Found that add-on light was installed with a scotchlock between the brown going to pump after diodes and the white on the system heat switch. Definately added somewhere after the factory. Red heatshrink around both sets of diodes has been cut open, so apparently not first time with this problem.
Will continue to update on progress...slow going with other time commitments.
96 EVO
You didn't answer whether the hyd pump is running when you press a switch, and the slide doesn't move?
John C
11 minutes ago, Patricia Ferrara said:Don’t know if this is applicable to your rig, but you might find it interesting, if not helpful.
Best of luck!
The one that I posted previously looked a little fuzzy, so hopefully this one is clearer.
It is different, my coach has fiberglass roof on top.
Thanks
WilPaul35
Pump is not running now. It had been running and slide was going out crooked. Retracted fine, cycled both sides as mentioned before and then pump stopped and that odd light started to illuminate.
WilPaul35
Ok more info. 12.2V DC to pump solenoid. Activate switch either direction for either slide have 12.2V across pump solenoid and to pump motor, can hear control valves click and motor does not run. Next step is going to pm all contacts, getting road grime cleaned up from pump and harness, clean up power cables and test again. Starting to think pump motor has died.
Tom Cherry
40 minutes ago, WilPaul35 said:Ok more info. 12.2V DC to pump solenoid. Activate switch either direction for either slide have 12.2V across pump solenoid and to pump motor, can hear control valves click and motor does not run. Next step is going to pm all contacts, getting road grime cleaned up from pump and harness, clean up power cables and test again. Starting to think pump motor has died.
Phone conversation with Paul. Went over the places that mine had issues. He has great grasp of the system. Neither of us know why the idiot light.
He will get all connections checked and cleaned and then will do some direct 12 VDC connecting to see if the issue is burned contacts in solenoid or bad motor.
jlynn37064
I just removed the TCM. It was hot, about 120 degrees. I am now thinking it has a short of some kind. I’m going to check around for a replacement.
Ivan K
May not be applicable here but on ours, all the controls, valves and motor relay run on house batteries except the pump motor that needs chassis power. It comes from the same post in FRB where generator gets its power also. Just a thought in case the chassis batteries were disconnected.
GoWestMan
5 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:Unless one is “qualified” or cerified to performce the DOT required Air System tests and such, I’d find a good OTR truck shop and say…leaking….fix it. The leak rate you quoted, unless I misunderstood, would FAIL….miserably, the AIR BRAKE TEST.
This is the USDOT Air Brake pretrip or performance test, in simple and easy to perform steps. If it fails….then figure out HOW to fix it or have a professional fix it. Driving it if it failed can be deadly…
I don't see anything there it wouldn't pass. It only leaks down with the engine off. It maintains pressure at 100 psi when running. Test says 120 to 135 psi but it's never been up that high even before the leak. And it has a new compressor and was set by a semi shop and a 60 yr old mechanic who specializes in Cummins powered RVs.
vito.a
Wow, a Detroit 60 Series powered Navigator. That's a nice find.
Your coach came with three Penguin low profile A/C units. They may also be heat pumps. In 2006 you also have the Intellitec multiplex house system which is all your lighted switches.
If you have to replace one A/C the front one is ideal because it's on a thermostat by itself and the new Penguin II units are not compatible with the older 5 button comfort control thermostat. So, you would replace the front A/C with a Penguin II 15K btu heat pump and the front thermostat with the new 10 button Comfort Control II.
The RJ11 telephone cord these units use to communicate is susceptible to corrosion on the connectors. I would start by cleaning ALL the RJ11 phone cord connectors. This includes the back of each thermostat and under each A/C unit. There will be an RJ11 coupler connector under some of the A/C units assessable by lowering the inside cover and removing the air filters. Either clean these or replace them with new.
The large cover under the A/C units has small 7/16" hex bolts on the driver's side. Remove these to lower the cover and it will hinge downward.
I like to use Hosa DeOxit spray cleaner. It's available from Amazon.
After cleaning all connectors, then reset each thermostat. Slide the black switch underneath to off. Hold down both the top and the bottom buttons and slide the switch on. You should see FF in the window.
Hopefully after this procedure you see Furnace (as opposed to Heat Pump) on all three zones.
Yes, for your Aqua Hot front heat exchangers to function you will need to depress the Intellitec Heat switch. And for the Aqua Hot boiler to heat up you'll need to turn on either the Aqua Hot electric heat element or the diesel burner. The Aqua Hot electric heat element (after being turned on for at least 2 hours) is only good for a small amount of hot water. You will need to run the diesel burner for 20 min for full heat and hot water output. And then select Furnace for each zone on each thermostat.
I hope this helps.
Frank McElroy
20 minutes ago, GoWestMan said:I don't see anything there it wouldn't pass. It only leaks down with the engine off. It maintains pressure at 100 psi when running.
Maintaining 100 psi when running is NOT a test used to pass an air leak test. You must measure the PSI pressure drop over time with the engine OFF. After airing up shut off the engine and see if you lose more that 2 PSI/minute. If you do, your system has failed a DOT air brake test.
To lose 60 psi and still pass would take over 30 minutes. You said it takes just a few minutes to lose 60 psi - that would be a FAIL.
birdshill123
FL techs are prima Donas. The first move will be the tech wanting an electrical diagram. He will call Rev. That will take half an hour @$200 an hour. He will whine that they do not stock any of the parts. The clock keeps ticking. A good independent truck shop or a mobile mechanic would be a good choice. But sometimes they are so busy motorhomes are turned away.
jimmcpheters
My headlight bears 20-6233 on 08 Dip.
Jimmymac 08 Dip
96 EVO
2 hours ago, WilPaul35 said:Ok more info. 12.2V DC to pump solenoid. Activate switch either direction for either slide have 12.2V across pump solenoid and to pump motor, can hear control valves click and motor does not run. Next step is going to pm all contacts, getting road grime cleaned up from pump and harness, clean up power cables and test again. Starting to think pump motor has died.
That's quite possible!
It was common on those years hyd pumps for the seal to fail between the pump and motor, and the motor windings to get soaked with ATF.
96 EVO
4 hours ago, Ivan K said:Doug, does the suspect 'moaning' fitting has a line coming out of it?
Answer to this question will tell us a little more!
1 hour ago, GoWestMan said:I don't see anything there it wouldn't pass. It only leaks down with the engine off. It maintains pressure at 100 psi when running. Test says 120 to 135 psi but it's never been up that high even before the leak. And it has a new compressor and was set by a semi shop and a 60 yr old mechanic who specializes in Cummins powered RVs.
If it continues to lose air at that rate, it's going to need another new compressor before long!
NAMVET77
Took the top off my AC unit today and found this. Now I get to see if the AC guy will put this together and put a “T” on so it can be charged like Ivan did.
Don
Both air tanks lose air together
Ivan K
I had to demonstrate the air system test with engine off but ignition ON so ride hight and air accessories are functional and potentialy leaking too.
granvillebarker
5 hours ago, Twomed said:Have you figured out access yet? Looked at mine on the left/fwd end and ??? I have had the closet side/driver side front off, and the wood fascia is Velcroed and a couple of headless brads at the top. Not sure that will get to the hyd lines though unless maybe they used a shorter slide mechanism on sink side.
Pics please whenever you do get it apart as we will all be in there someday. Thanks
I plan to either remove the sink cabinet or cut access in the back of the little corner shelf. It's a very small leak, so I'm hoping we can make it through a summer trip and then I'll knock it out this fall. If I have to do it on the road, at least I have a plan.
Ivan K
Nice clean crack, compressor vibrations, I had similar in a bend. It is fixable if there is a will.
Pogo3979
Anyone know the part # of a 2007 isl 400 Cummins starter. It has a leece Neville starter and is not available.
granvillebarker
2 hours ago, WilPaul35 said:Ok more info. 12.2V DC to pump solenoid. Activate switch either direction for either slide have 12.2V across pump solenoid and to pump motor, can hear control valves click and motor does not run. Next step is going to pm all contacts, getting road grime cleaned up from pump and harness, clean up power cables and test again. Starting to think pump motor has died.
I had to remove my pump motor a year or two ago and give it a good cleaning. The brushes were getting stuck in the brush holder and not engaging. You just need some q-tips and alcohol, make sure the brushes can move freely in the holders and put it back together.
96 EVO
6 hours ago, John C said:The coach has a small one, which I am not going use because there is no way I could direct the wire to the place I want, I need to drop the wire from top of the vent.
I have 5 solar controller, so 5 pairs of solar wire, 3 pairs are 10 awg, 2 pairs are 6 awg, so the factory box is too small anyway.
for the 3 pairs with 10 awg, I am thinking directory run the wire from solar panel to the MTTP.
for the two 6 awg pairs , because that are for 4 panels, I will have to combine two pairs 10 awg from solar panel to 6 awg, I will use junction box to combine those wires.
So you think I should run my wires through the corner on the left? the two pipe in the middle is not a good idea? will those pipe get very hot?
Preferably I would like to run the wires straight down from middle of the two pipes but no sure if those two pipe are going to get very hot or not?
None of those tubes are going to get as hot as your burner chimney!
Chuck-Kathy_Orlando
Well, am the President of our HOA, but that's not an excuse! With the recent changes to HOA laws going into effect on 01 July, they can no longer cite you for parking an RV in your driveway or on public streets (unless it's a gated community with private roads). However, I am cognizant of attempting to play by the rules and it's only right to set an example, for sure.
I'm more concerned of someone hitting it parked on the road!
GoWestMan
1 hour ago, Ivan K said:I had to demonstrate the air system test with engine off but ignition ON so ride hight and air accessories are functional and potentialy leaking too.
Demonstrate to whom? Maybe its different here but we have an initial inspection when you bring in an RV from out of the province (bought it in California, drove it back to Alberta) but after that, as long as it stays insured, there are no more inspections til you sell it to someone else.
1 hour ago, 96 EVO said:Answer to this question will tell us a little more!
If it continues to lose air at that rate, it's going to need another new compressor before long!
Yes it has a line coming out of it. I think its the fitting furthest to the front of the RV.
6 hours ago, Ivan K said:Doug, does the suspect 'moaning' fitting has a line coming out of it? If you are talking about passenger half of the front tank, I would expect 2 lines going back from the top. The big one from drier, small one to governor. I have one more but that's optional from air leveling compressor. You should be able to take a phone picture of it too but the leak isn't necessarily there, it could be at the other end of the line.
Yes it has a line coming out of it. Im pretty sure the leak is at this end as I can feel the fitting subtly vibrating when it 'moans'. I dont think it would transmit that far through rubber air lines and still vibrate...but maybe. Im not in it for a few days but Ill try to snap a pic when Im back.
7 hours ago, 96 EVO said:Are you saying you can feel the air coming out of this valve? It could simply be a failing pressure relief valve!
It's really hard to diagnose, without seeing it! There's several different types of valves and fittings on each of your tanks!
No I cant feel air coming out. Only a subtle vibration. And yeah there are quite a few valves and fittings thats why its kinda hard to pinpoint which one is the culprit. I even tried using a mechanic's stethoscope but its really an awkward location at the top of the tank.
klcdenver
In the IRV2 Monaco owners forum search for this forum "ISL 400 Starter Issue". It discusses changing to a Delco . I have also attached the Delco info. Keep us posted on your fix please. I have the same year engine.
Kenneth
Jdw12345
Fwiw my auxiliary air compressor was shot when I purchased our 05 3 years ago, I ordered a new oem compressor, there’s probably better choices and some folks are mounting them in a dry bay which makes sense. It toke me a bit to figure out the wiring, two hot lines going to compressor, one for power and one as a trigger, has a built in purge valve for moisture, I replaced the relay and solenoid and after tree years it’s working perfectly.
PS, I live about 75 miles south of you.
JohnC3
6 hours ago, John C said:The coach has a small one, which I am not going use because there is no way I could direct the wire to the place I want, I need to drop the wire from top of the vent.
I have 5 solar controller, so 5 pairs of solar wire, 3 pairs are 10 awg, 2 pairs are 6 awg, so the factory box is too small anyway.
for the 3 pairs with 10 awg, I am thinking directory run the wire from solar panel to the MTTP.
for the two 6 awg pairs , because that are for 4 panels, I will have to combine two pairs 10 awg from solar panel to 6 awg, I will use junction box to combine those wires.
So you think I should run my wires through the corner on the left? the two pipe in the middle is not a good idea? will those pipe get very hot?
Preferably I would like to run the wires straight down from middle of the two pipes but no sure if those two pipe are going to get very hot or not?
Actually, I think you should drill a hole in the msb away from the fridge where you can and then run your wires down through the msb panel. This will put your wires down closer to the side of the RV. Also, talk more about your setup. 10awg can carry 30A, I would probably join at least some panels in series to raise the voltage, this will allow the panels to provide usable power to the mppt for longer(when the sun is lower angle). I have a 36 ft and had convenient space for 2 (410w) panels. They go to a victron 100/50 controller to output 600w to the batteries.
96 EVO
Your likely going to need to follow that line and see where it comes from/ goes to.
You can check the downloads on this forum to see if there is a air schematic for a '92 Sig that may help, if it's available.
96 EVO
1 hour ago, Chuck-Kathy_Orlando said:Well, am the President of our HOA,
HaHa, that's a bonus 🤣!
Couldn't see myself living anywhere there's a HOA!
I live on a corner lot and have a dedicated coach / boat driveway.
Chris and Donna
Hey Vito, thank's for the reply, all information helps.
All 3 units have heat pumps.
Back 2 units thermostats show fan , cool, heat pump and furnace and all these work as designed.
Front unit only shows fan, cool and heat pump no furnace. It is the one with the furnace dip switch turned off. I have cleaned the rj11 jacks and replaced 1 inside control box. Will drop decorative panel and see if there are any connectors with pig tails that need cleaning there. (Not an easy task, 4 7/16 bolts 1 each end and 2 in driver side. Takes 2.of us to do it safely.
Do we just blame Monaco for none of this being in the prints or manual. Especially the part about heater craft fan speed control and front furnace exchangers?
Chris
Bill R
2 hours ago, NAMVET77 said:Now I get to see if the AC guy will put this together and put a “T” on so it can be charged like Ivan did.
Make sure to have the switching valve wrapped with a wet rag to keep it from getting too hot while sweating on the "T". Otherwise it may damage the mechanism. Trust me, I speak from experience.
Kuhlbreeze
Guys i have a 99 Diplomat it always had a few loose tiles in the bathroom around the toilet. We used it for a small camping trip and noticed the floor seems spongy and the toilet seems to be sinking. No leaks presenting, no leaks externally i have no idea how i am going to fix this. Anyone else experience this. Also keeps tripping GFI on electric only.
JDCrow
Yep
Bathroom floor soft
PeterSchweizer
Most likely the wax seal between the toilet n toilet waste pipe has been leaking thus totting the plywood sub floor. Or the flush water valve or hose is also leaking under the toilets base shroud, if u have one?
Toilet should he removed ans sub floor inspected if rotted the remove clean area replace sub floor n new tile or another type of floor material, replace toilet water valve n flush parts ( do not know the brand or model or general condition of yours) or replace it. You will be proud sitting on n in your new throne!😁
JD looks like FUN!
Ivan K
Right, tha AC guy should know to shield the flame and might use a cooling gel too
Slow engine cranking
Frank McElroy
12 hours ago, Rikadoo said:Hey i have read old posts, an actually found similar posts, however the results were so tremendous i thought bringing this to the group was warranted.
Customer brought there 2005 coach with a Cat engine to us to address severel issues, one of them being seems slow when cranking, they had been elsewhere where they were sold 2 new batteries. The result was the same, two fully charged batteries yielded what appeared to either be a starter or engine issue as it would engauge then struggle to crank over, but it would always start, so i had suspected possable Voltage drops mainly due to the visual cues i was seeing, after just one VD check of 4 volts accross the battery switch, i made the decision to clean all the connections, and replace the battery switch. The tool that helps with this the most is a angle drill with a small abrasive pad, disconnecting the batterys i started with them, to the frame where they had two different attaching points, on to the starter, cleaned both the ground and the positive connections, i replaced all the lock washers on every connection, and applied electrical grease on every spot as i was reassembling. As for the battery switch of course we recieved the wrong parts (my fault) so till we get the replacement part i reassembled it in case we had to move it. So rechecking for voltage drop at the same spot went from 4 volts to 1, however the results with that are amazing, the difference in the cranking performance are day an night, dont get me wrong it is nowhere near that of a gear reduction style starter, but it is all of what these old style starters could do in there prime. To be sure im positve that due to the extreamly low cranking amps that caused this starter to slow down may have accelerated the wear on the brushes and may be a problem down the road. But just knowing how with age and the derogation of connections that electrical performance can be effected. I bet with after preparing to do the job i had MAYBE 1 hour in removing an cleaning all the high amp connections. Also as you see the solinoid at the starter, when i was bidding the job i said i “would not” be removing the reverse torx bolt for fear it would snap, so you can tell that too has its issues, but for the damage that im sure the starter has endured had i not recieved the results i was aiming for the next step would have been to replace the entire starter, which i will still propose to the customer. For the battery switch i remained with the mfg. Cole Hersee which is still available on line, that in my haste of finding the proper wire configuration i failed to note the post size, i needed 1/2 inch an bought 3/8🤦♂️ “i was sooo close😂”
Good job. Checking for voltage drop is something that should be top on the trouble shooting priority list vs just assuming weak batteries or a bad starter. Years ago, I ran across a similar slow crank condition only to fund a corroded ground cable on the engine block causing the engine block to be at about 3 volts vs ground. So, the slow cranking starter was only seeing about 9 volts.
John C
3 hours ago, 96 EVO said:None of those tubes are going to get as hot as your burner chimney!
Good, that is what I want to hear 😀
What are those two tubes for ?
2 hours ago, JohnC3 said:Actually, I think you should drill a hole in the msb away from the fridge where you can and then run your wires down through the msb panel. This will put your wires down closer to the side of the RV. Also, talk more about your setup. 10awg can carry 30A, I would probably join at least some panels in series to raise the voltage, this will allow the panels to provide usable power to the mppt for longer(when the sun is lower angle). I have a 36 ft and had convenient space for 2 (410w) panels. They go to a victron 100/50 controller to output 600w to the batteries.
The problem is I got 7 panels with 4 different voltage. I will connect 2 pairs of two 300W panel in series.
no sure what is msb panel.
For me fridge is safest place because I won't accidentally break a wire and also I don't have to worry about the ceiling.
Benjamin
8200433 Delco, you may have to "clock" the starter, that is, rotate the housing from the nosepiece by removing bolts and rotating to fit your application/match the old starter, then test fitting, then tightening all the bolts. But the gear reduction starter is 30 pounds, compared to over 50 for a direct drive, so much easier to handle. It takes a 12point, 12mm socket if you have the funny bolts. And a bunch of extensions and wobbles to get the old one off. New one goes on easier.
New Downloads
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Steve P
Frank McElroy
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