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Here's what the Monacoers have been talking about:
 

Index


New (To Us) 2016 Diplomat 43DF - Round 2
Chuck-Kathy_Orlando
AC, furnace and Aqua-Hot
Tom Cherry
Norcold 1200LRIM Free
Martinvz
White-Rogers 586-105111
Jeff H
Bathroom floor soft
Kuhlbreeze
Bathroom floor soft
jacwjames
White-Rogers 586-105111
Tom Cherry
HWH Leveling operations
vito.a
Aqua Hot dumped all antifreeze
Greg Coffey
Battery boost switch inoperative
daveyjo
2008 holiday ramblers leveling system
MyronTruex
Rooftop AC troubleshooting
NAMVET77
Battery boost switch inoperative
jacwjames
Battery boost switch inoperative
Tom Cherry
TripTek 3000
Biljol
White-Rogers 586-105111
VinceB
TripTek 3000
Bill C
Battery boost switch inoperative
daveyjo
HWH Leveling operations
vito.a
Both air tanks lose air together
dandick66
12volt dash outlet
Jlalpaugh
Battery boost switch inoperative
jacwjames
12volt dash outlet
jacwjames
HWH Leveling operations
Rboss22
Aqua Hot rebuild
RobinK
Entry door
Steven 53
Rooftop AC troubleshooting
cbr046
12volt dash outlet
cbr046
Aqua Hot rebuild
gjh2916
Blue fire vs Scan gauge
Keith H.
12volt dash outlet
Jlalpaugh
Wanting input on how to upgrade cams
Keith H.
Blue fire vs Scan gauge
jacwjames
Blue fire vs Scan gauge
Keith H.
Blue fire vs Scan gauge
MHRookie
Blue fire vs Scan gauge
Keith H.
Blue fire vs Scan gauge
jacwjames
12volt dash outlet
Jlalpaugh
12volt dash outlet
jacwjames
Aqua Hot rebuild
Ivan K
12volt dash outlet
Jlalpaugh
Salesman Switch issues
Russgh
Rooftop AC troubleshooting
NAMVET77
12volt dash outlet
PeterSchweizer
Super Wall Slide goes out crooked - 2006 Knight
johncvandoren@gmail.com
Generator Power Source ?
Kris G
Paul Brown
Paul Brown Jr
Blue fire vs Scan gauge
96 EVO
Generator Power Source ?
klcdenver
Generator Power Source ?
Ivan K
Paul Brown
klcdenver
Rooftop AC troubleshooting
Ivan K
Paul Brown
Benjamin
12volt dash outlet
Jlalpaugh
Both air tanks lose air together
Frank McElroy
Generator Power Source ?
vito.a
12volt dash outlet
RBRODDER
Generator Power Source ?
Kris G
Paul Brown
Just Jim

Discussions


Where to drop the solar wires from fridge top vent?
JohnC3
6 hours ago, John C said:

Good, that is what I want to hear 😀

What are those two tubes for ?

The problem is I got 7 panels with 4 different voltage. I will connect 2 pairs of two 300W panel in series.

no sure what is msb panel.

For me fridge is safest place because I won't accidentally break a wire and also I don't have to worry about the ceiling.

Look at your original picture. Drill the hole near the base of one of the red arrows you added to the picture. Msb=multi stranded board. Also known as chip board. If you remove the lower exterior fridge vent from the outside of your RV and place a flashlight in the void behind your fridge and shine a light up towards the roof, you will be illuminating the bottom side of the piece of "wood" (msb) that is in your picture. I am suggesting you rout your witts frome the roof closer to the outside wall of your motorhome than the fins of your coils in your picture. That wood (msb) in the picture is a baffle used to force air over the coils of fridge to increase thermal efficiency. There is 2-3 inches of space behind the fridge coils (as you can tell by the presence of the piece of msb you are photographing) send it down through that void, but 1st convince yourself I am right drill a hole small enough for a wire to go through ( or a string or fish tape, your choice) push the wire ,etc through the hole about 6 feet and look through the lower outside fridge vent and see what you find. The wire, as long as it didn't get tangled in fiberglass insulation or caught in the coils should be between the rear of the fridge an the side of the motorhome. If you run the wires here, you can still take out the fridge when it needs repair or replacement, without cutting your solar panel wires.


New (To Us) 2016 Diplomat 43DF - Round 2
Chuck-Kathy_Orlando
8 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

HaHa, that's a bonus 🤣!

Couldn't see myself living anywhere there's a HOA!

I live on a corner lot and have a dedicated coach / boat driveway.

That's one thing I WISH I had.  I'd put up a cover and since I have 50 amp service for the previous RV, keep in plugged in to keep the humidity out when not in use.


Lost power steering fluid. HELP. 2001 Diplomat
tomevansfl

Thanks Ken. 


AC, furnace and Aqua-Hot
Tom Cherry
11 hours ago, vito.a said:

Wow, a Detroit 60 Series powered Navigator.   That's a nice find. 

Your coach came with three Penguin low profile A/C units.  They may also be heat pumps.  In 2006 you also have the Intellitec multiplex house system which is all your lighted switches.    

If you have to replace one A/C the front one is ideal because it's on a thermostat by itself and the new Penguin II units are not compatible with the older 5 button comfort control thermostat.   So, you would replace the front A/C with a Penguin II 15K btu heat pump and the front thermostat with the new 10 button Comfort Control II.  

The RJ11 telephone cord these units use to communicate is susceptible to corrosion on the connectors.  I would start by cleaning ALL the RJ11 phone cord connectors.  This includes the back of each thermostat and under each A/C unit.  There will be an RJ11 coupler connector under some of the A/C units assessable by lowering the inside cover and removing the air filters.  Either clean these or replace them with new.   

The large cover under the A/C units has small 7/16" hex bolts on the driver's side.  Remove these to lower the cover and it will hinge downward.  

I like to use Hosa DeOxit spray cleaner.  It's available from Amazon.  

After cleaning all connectors, then reset each thermostat.  Slide the black switch underneath to off.  Hold down both the top and the bottom buttons and slide the switch on.  You should see FF in the window.  

Hopefully after this procedure you see Furnace (as opposed to Heat Pump) on all three zones.  

Yes, for your Aqua Hot front heat exchangers to function you will need to depress the Intellitec Heat switch.  And for the Aqua Hot boiler to heat up you'll need to turn on either the Aqua Hot electric heat element or the diesel burner.  The Aqua Hot electric heat element (after being turned on for at least 2 hours) is only good for a small amount of hot water.  You will need to run the diesel burner for 20 min for full heat and hot water output.  And then select Furnace for each zone on each thermostat.  

I hope this helps. 

OK...as to the FRONT Control Module.  Here is HOW, per Dometic, they will be programmed.  Zone 1 will NOT have any DIPS "ON".  Therefore that Zone is 1, by default. If there is a "FURNACE or HEAT, aka AquaHot" set (pair) of wires going to the AquaHot....which obviously in the FRONT there is, then Furnace (#7?) MUST be ON. 

In your case, there is a connection problem.....ODDS ARE....the Dual Inline cable connectors and the RJ's are NOT making a circuit during the RESET. All the reset does is allow the Thermostat (for that SYSTEM...not a separate system like in the rear bedroom) to "CHECK OUT" and see what is hooked up and how the DIPS are set.  The FF that you should get means they had a GOOD "Handshake" as some techs say.  NO FF...YOU GOTTA A PROBLEM.

NOW, it really gets HEADY...

 

So far all seems WELL and most of the information is correct.  There are a few items that I would quibble with, based on helping folks work on their units.

The 2006, 7 and 8 Dynasty's systems...ASSUMING all were the Intellitec MPX control (lighted and dimmable) keypads and NOT switches everywhere was not exactly one of Monaco's finest moments as to "WRITING" the manual. The 08 Manual, which you can download from Monaco (MonacoCoach.com...  I THINK...otherwise GOOGLE) FINALLY got the sequence or the way the Intellitec switches for the Aquahot correctly WRITTEN or written in a way that most folks can understand.

I know a LOT of people use the DETOX IT cleaner.  I have used a variety of cleaners over the year...some work...others destroyed older plastic connectors. The way that most have successfully cleaned, without risk of melting or further deteriorating the RJ jacks and inline connectors is simple Isopropyl Alcohol and a Q-Tip.  I also recommend order spare, actually replacing...if you have to clean at least one, of the Dual Inline connectors from Amazon. The vibration and the potential for moisture causes circuit failures.  BTW.  The ENTIRE CCC (the original 5 button) and the CCC2 (10 button and how all Dometic systems are made today) is a Multiplexed SYSTEM.  The power for the Thermostats comes from every Control Module in each HVAC unit.  There is NO POWER or 12 VDC to any Thermostat.

They are NOT PHONE CABLES.  Read the Dometic install manual. YES, they use RJ connectors.  BUT, they are DATA COMMUNICATION cables.  The cable is what is commonly called, in some electronic's circles, as a CROSSOVER.  The termination on each is different.  The colors and positions on a Phone Cable are the same.  NOT on the Dometic Data Communication cables.  Many folks have failed to understand and also have used phone cables in their troubleshooting and then been totally perplexed.

OK...as to the FRONT Control Module.  Here is HOW, per Dometic, they will be programmed.  Zone 1 will NOT have any DIPS "ON".  Therefore that Zone is 1, by default. If there is a "FURNACE or HEAT, aka AquaHot" set (pair) of wires going to the AquaHot....which obviously in the FRONT there is, then Furnace (#7?) MUST be ON. 

In your case, there is a connection problem.....ODDS ARE....the Dual Inline cable connectors and the RJ's are NOT making a circuit during the RESET. All the reset does is allow the Thermostat (for that SYSTEM...not a separate system like in the rear bedroom) to "CHECK OUT" and see what is hooked up and how the DIPS are set.  The FF that you should get means they had a GOOD "Handshake" as some techs say.  NO FF...YOU GOTTA A PROBLEM.

DO NOT DO ANYTHING OVERWHELMING and tear into any thing up front.  The SIMPLE TEST...or SEE IF IT WORKS...a Paper Clip. OK...look at the Aquahot Control Panel.  Make sure the LOW VOLTAGE alarm light is NOT on.  Use the paperclip to reset it.  SOME are PICKY and will use the end of a Q-TIP or a Wooden Q-Tip (electronics cleaning). 

OK...we have about 5 different sets (scanned as well as the OEM CD's).  BUT, the 2006 scanned is the ONLY one (maybe they forgot to scan it) without the INFAMOUS HVAC LAYOUT.  SO...it is BELOW.  YES...if you have the Intellitec MPX, which you do...then this print is correct....

NOW Open up the AH system and find the CONTROL PANEL.  Use the Paper Clip to Jumper... #1 Thermo+ & #1 Thermo-.  BTW....these wires do NOT have any polarity.  NOBODY has figured out WHY the were labeled + & -.  That is the SAME as the Front Control Module "calling for heat".  HERE IS SOMETHING TO UNDERSTAND.  The HVAC controllers in the units have TWO WIRES...often called BLUE as sometimes they were or were that on Controller...  BTW the Controller is called, by Dometic as the AC CONTROL(LER)...not a Module...but we call it that.  When the Thermostat calls for HEAT.  ALL the controller does is "MAKE A CIRCUIT".  Folk often (USUALLY) say....what is the VOLTAGE.  It maybe has VOLTAGE, but no one has, to my knowledge measured it...or I haven't. The contacts on the Controller for the Thermostat are DRY.  All they do is make a circuit. There is a relay that closes.  There is NOT a voltage signal sent from the Controller.  Think of it as a "light switch leg" as the electricians call a wire running to a remote light or wall switch.  SO, you JUMPER...same as the Controller saying.   GIVE ME HEAT.

IF the Fans work and eventually you get heat...then the AH panel is OK.  BUT, if you JUMPER IT...and NADA....then issues.  

NOW, the most common (95% if I can make a "guess" for emphasis) of the time it is the Connectors.  And cleaning will usually cure it.  BUT, I have had to clean at least twice....on one of mine.  Have a SPARE connector for next time...It is working...why mess with it.

If the Thermostat does NOT read FF....then the next steps.  Remove the Thermostat from the wall.  Clean the terminals and plug in.  

BTW...the TWO "wires" with RJ's...they have NO polarity.  Designed that way.  Either one will send or daisy chain the system.  

Next Up...if now JOY...then take the Thermostat over the the unit.  Pick EITHER of the two wires hanging DOWN (from the roof top.  Plug in the Thermostat.  Do the RESET.   SWITCH OFF.  Mode and Zone HELD IN...Then turn on.  If that doesn't work...then pull the rear thermostat and try it.  THEN...you KNOW you have a defective Control unit.  Swap it with the one of the Rear bedroom unit.  Take a picture of the DIPS.  Those TWO should be identical as they are BOTH Zone 1 with HEAT...That should do it.

ANOTHER NO NO.  STOP using the SWITCH on the Thermostats...  LEAVE THEM ON.  Use the MODE button and cycle to OFF. The switches are PRONE to failure.  

NOW...LOOK AT THE PRINT.  Your system is a bit screwy. You DO, somewhere in the BOWELS of the center, have a REMOTE ZONE or HVAC Controller.  It is EXACTLY like the ones in the HVAC, except sold and packaged for a Stand Alone Zone.  You can STILL purchase, NEW the Controllers for the roof top and the remotes.

ONE FINAL THING TO CLUTTER YOUR BRAIN.  That Remote Controller does NOT have any 12 VDC going to it.  OMG...how does it function.  Technically, Dometic states that ONLY ONE of the Controllers needs 12 VDC...and then the POWER for the Thermostats as well as OTHER units, without 12 VDC, comes from the Data Communications cables...

NOW...you are armed.  Seek counseling...re-read this.  This is how it works and how you test and isolate.

Good Luck...

 

2007 DYNASTY & UP AQUAHOT AND HVAC PRINT.pdf


Is Roadmaster chassis related to Freightliner?
Frank McElroy

In 1984 Monaco bought Roadmaster Chassis from Chrysler Corp. Roadmaster was a chassis division that Chrysler opened mid-1980s to design a chassis for a commercial bus/coach that they planned to build. They changed their plan and sold off the division including the chassis to Monaco. Monaco used the Roadmaster chassis line for the Beavers until the end of production in 2009.

Here is a link to the history.

 


Norcold 1200LRIM Free
Martinvz

I did the same and sold it on FB Market place. If you go this route, do not expect much for it.


White-Rogers 586-105111
Jeff H
23 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Two comments.  You have, I think, a totally different system.  Tied up today, but suggest you post a scan or photos from your manual.  You PROBABLY have the real Big Boy.  Depending on what you have, if my guess…and I’ll try to research later, you need to troubleshoot.

Second….there was a complete write up or topic on the ML-ACR.  Please search that in both Topics and Files.  Your specific question about the new remote or boost switch was addressed.  I wrote it after a lot of research and circuit review and talking to Blue Seas.

First….NOPE…you do NOT actually need the new remote or Boost.  Jumping out and manually controlling it will work. This is NOT RECOMMENDED by Blue Seas.

Second, the additional YELLOW wire is a safeguard.  Its purpose is to give you INSTANT ERROR or MALFUNCTION.  It monitors the unit.  So if a short or error occurs…you KNOW to stop and find would why the ML-ACR was not working. The tech was MORE than adamant about doing the full proper installation.

Personally…the newer systems like yours were misunderstood.  If you have the Intellitec BIRD and Big Boy setup, I’d diagnose and test. Then….determine the cost of fixing…they are reliable. So find out what’s wrong rather than shotgunning $$ at it.  But, if you say….NOPE, I’m upgrading….then the consensus….do it properly…..otherwise fix and stick with what you’ve got.

Let us know….I’ll try to help later with your prints…

 

My manual says 2005 but the motorhome is a 2006 so I am not sure it is accurate for everything.  I could not find anything about a Big Boy Relay in the manual nor anything about charging the house battery while from the alternator.  I thought that a Diplomat did not have the Big Boy relay.

I have attached pictures of the diagram in the manual and some pictures of the battery bay and what I assume is the issue.

 

Bathroom floor soft
Kuhlbreeze

10 hours ago, JDCrow said:

Yep

IMG_6021.jpeg

IMG_6020.jpeg

IMG_6029.jpeg

IMG_6042.jpeg

IMG_6059.jpeg

IMG_6060.jpeg

Omg that is bad


Bathroom floor soft
jacwjames

On my  toilet it was almost impossible to tighten the water line going to the toilet.  I finally bought a wire braided hose with the correct ends from Lowes.  Now I put a loop in it and attache the hose before I set the toilet back in place. 

With a soft floor that is flexing about the only way to fix is tear it out.   Fix it right the first time so I'd tear it out until you get to good wood.  If the soft spot goes under a wall it might extend into the next room.   If any area isn't completely gone you might get by with using a wood hardener, Lowes/Home Depot carry this product. 

My coach had two layers of 5/8" chip OSB type plywood.  Once water gets it the OSB pretty much crumbles.  I had to replace a 4'X6' piece behind the passenger seat.  Cut it out to good wood and used a 3/4" piece of treated plywood that I painted with an exterior primer.  I used splice plates underneath to mate old/new, screwed up from the bottom and then just ground off the part that penetrated the old floor, this firmed everything up.  I then found an exteriror siding of the correct thickness to make up the difference, this was very dense. 

I then laid new LVP except in the kitchen and bath area, turned into a pretty big job but decided to bite the bullet and try and do it right.  Here's a thread showing what I did.  

 


Dash gauges, Pac brake, jacks and 12V outlet not working
jd4714

I have a 1994 Monaco Dynasty which all the dash gauges except for the speedo, turbo boost and air pressure gauge work intermittently. When the gauges go out the Pac brake, jacks and 12V outlet also don't work. Initially when I hit a bump they would come back on but now a bump in the road does nothing. Any thoughts?


Dash gauges, Pac brake, jacks and 12V outlet not working
Dr4Film

Bad ground connection. Redo all of your connections making sure there is no corrosion and the connection is clean and solid. Start at the front and work your way towards the rear.


Dash gauges, Pac brake, jacks and 12V outlet not working
jd4714
3 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

Bad ground connection. Start at the front and redo all of your connections making sure there is no corrosion and the connection is clean and solid.

Thank you for the fast response!


Is Roadmaster chassis related to Freightliner?
Tom Cherry
27 minutes ago, Frank McElroy said:

In 1984 Monaco bought Roadmaster Chassis from Chrysler Corp. Roadmaster was a chassis division that Chrysler opened mid-1980s to design a chassis for a commercial bus/coach that they planned to build. They changed their plan and sold off the division including the chassis to Monaco. Monaco used the Roadmaster chassis line for the Beavers until the end of production in 2009.

Here is a link to the history.

 

This is truly an amaziing history of our “coaches”.  There are two points or perhaps one and a “sidebar” that I know is true.  Documented the the Navistar annual reports as well as EPA and DOT press releases. I knew most of this, but had never seen it recapped.

The Purchase price ($47 M) is correct or was verified by the conversations of the Monaco “Dealer’s Council” group.  They also commented that the receiver’s purchase price seemed very low.  At this time, Navistar also received a grant (US Government….purportedly EPA and DOT combined).  NOW…in keeping with the site’s rules….comments or such on that and/Or criticism which might morph into “political” discussions are not permitted.

The grant was to develop and build a sustainable Fedex Electric “Package” delivery truck…or an EV Fedex Truck.  That grant was in the $75 - $125 Million range.  Googling will provide additional information about that project.  The point, Monaco was considered as a REAL bargain and an ideal “fit” to expand Navistar.  It also provided a large market for the MAXXFORCE engines as well as an “in-house” testing and development arrangement.  A very logical business model.

Unfortunately, the MaxxForce was plagued with technology issues and the EPA later fined Navistar a significant amount.  The exact number and the “specifics” are hard to research.  But, effectively, there was a “fine” between say $5,000 and perhaps as much as $10,000 PER ENGINE SOLD and Installed in a titled vehicle.  Obviously that had an impact and Navistar had to reconsider it’s business model and ALLIED (REV) became the owner of the OLD Monaco.

NOW…the following is based on conversations with ex Monaco employees and also, again, former Monaco dealers.  REV has, and uses the “Roadmaster” Chassis trademark.  The first models were “dubbed” in the sales brochures as “New Roadmaster”. You can download them from MonacoCoach.com (memory…I have a permanent link to the site).  It was BELIEVED by many Ex Monaco employees, in Oregon, that REV owned the assets and intellectual property and trademarks of ALL of Monaco.  This history reads differently.

What is NOT included is the “fate” of the ACTUAL Roadmaster Chassis.  So…there are two scenarios….as to OWNERSHIP, but here is what actually happened.  As well as the “Tax and Financial Accounting” laws.

An entity, Navistar or REV….but, they BOTH AGREED, totally DESTROYED all the physical or Capital assets of the Roadmaster Chassis “production” entity.  All tooling and manufacturing equipment was segregated in the factory.  All WIP (Work In Progress) chassises were moved to this location.  ALL NEW components that were dedicated to the chassis were moved.  All “spare parts” or those sold as replacement parts to a dealer were purged from the “stock room”.  These were bearings, air bags, bushings, etc.  Many Chassis “shops” across the country TRIED to purchase or were willing to place bids on these items.  NOPE!

The ONLY item excluded was the “axles” and that was later defined as the Differential…and perhaps the TAG axle. There were ongoing negotiations with Dana to pay a restocking charge and recoup say, 75% of the purchase price.  It is BELIEVED that Dana declined.

This entire “area” of the factory or a giant “yard sale looking” conglomeration was secured.  The internal financial auditors and the external auditors (“suits” as they were called) presided over this area.  Navistar employees that were involved in “Financial Asset Control” were retained.  WHY??

The NAME “ROADMASTER” has a a prescribed “GOODWILL” value.  That is an ASSET…usually very HIGH.  The physical assets, Machinery that has been deprecated is a Capital Asset.  The WIP items are assets.  Bottom LINE.  ONE entity plans a massive TAX WRITE OFF.  In order for that write off to be approved in the Annual Report…due to the magnitude, the entity’s external auditor has to be involved.  The exact value is calculated to the penny.  The assets are photographed or videoed.  Thus, every item involved or even remotely involved in the manufacturing of the Roadmaster Chassis is accounted for….as well as the components.

The control protocols call for the auditors to accompany the “rolloff’s” of scrap containers to a recycling facility.  They are labeled.  Then the auditors stay on site at the recyler and make sure everything is crushed or destroyed.  

Once that is done….then the “GOODWILL” writeoff as well as the “Physical assets” writeoff will be allowed.  This is COMMONLY done.  In my career, I was involved in at least 2….would have been a third…but I had been trying to sell the entire line to an offshore competitor.  Our writeoff was around $250K.  That was included in the project justification.  At the last minute, I had a bid of $500K…and negotiated to $750K.  WE JUMPED ON IT.  That was a NET SWING of ONE MILLION DOLLARS…..to our bottom line. My “untiring” efforts to improve the company’s P&L were noted and my bonus was reflective of that.  In all honesty, a friend and ex boss, had designed and  built snd started it up and was the plant manager.  He was distraught and gave me all the insight into it and really wanted it to live and prosper..  I found the right used equipment agent and he came through and I negotiated a higher amount.

THUS..l KNOW as I had to help document the process and also work with an external auditor….so, technically, I have done three.

NOW…did REV get the writeoff for destroying the Roadmaster chassis and then used the NEW ROADMASTER TM??  Did Navistar, as was often done….decide to take all the losses in one year….??  Don’t know.  Everyone that commented said it was the NEW OWNER….but maybe Navistar.

Bottom line….there is NO equipment left to manufacture the ORIGINAL Roadmaster chassis.  That is a fact… and all the intellectual property is REV’s and one can’t duplicate it nor sell it….


2008 holiday ramblers leveling system
bradc344

Hi I have a holiday rambler and have taken my  rv to several shop and they can't figure out the problem , I have replaced the modulator  but still no power to the control panel check all the obvious fuse is there a hidden fuse someplace I might have missed  thank for the help


Need help 2008 Diplomat Headlight Replacement
Rheine

Thank you. Not wanting to buy another set this is what I did. The adjuster for up down was unhooked inside the housing.  I glued the lamp in the highest position and the unit reinstalled.  It was just a little low so I put a spacer in the lower anchor point. All good.  BTW the drivers side was perfect after install without adjustment. Who knew.

R


2008 holiday ramblers leveling system
Dr4Film

It would help to know if you have hydraulic jacks or air leveling?


White-Rogers 586-105111
Tom Cherry

YES and NO.  You have a Battery BOOST Solenoid.  ALL Monaco's DO.  Yours is the Trombetta.  White-Rodgers was also used...maybe some other brands.

NOW....when Monaco started using the Intellitec System, then the NAME BIG BOY was applied (or was the Solenoid) so a vast majority call the BOOST a Big Boy.  Like saying that all tissues are Kleenex.

Here is the print.  

That Solenoid has TWO functions.  The White Rodgers Solenoid does the SAME THING.  It connects the banks together.  ONE when you PRESS and HOLD the Batt Boost Switch up front.  The OTHER...for CHARGING....

OK...NOW is where it GETS TRICKY.  There is SOME type of "Charging Control" circuit.  But the prints that we have are not complete and Monaco did NOT do a good job on what they gave out.

Your BLOCK diagram has the SOLENOID between the TWO BATTERIES.  Trombetta.  (or maybe White Rodgers....it was dealer's Choice).

OK...now read what is on page 213....  The first three or four sentences (Monaco will NOT let me copy from their PDF) say it all.  You have a BIRD (BiDirectional Charing System).  When you DRIVE....the House is Charged.  When you are parked and on AC or Genny, the Chassis is charged. 

NOW...what does this?  Probably an Intellitec part.  It MAY be in the black panel that you have to open.  It probably looks like this...

2005 - 2007 maybe higher AUX starting Solenoid Print.pdf


Dash gauges, Pac brake, jacks and 12V outlet not working
klcdenver

Probably bad ground as Dr4Film said. Sometimes hard to find and just easier to run a new ground wire.


UPDATE CARB (California Air Resource Board) as applies to Motorhome
Joel Sheriff

Tom, with respect, the old info in the thread was outdated and my bringing this to the table actually sparked interest.  I looked up old info this should not be a warning memo. Only thing that happened was I put it under the wrong topic and acknowledge same after doing and apologized for not knowing how to rectify.  The info for CARB is now updated and clarified because of my post. There is no need to reprimand as if I handed in the wrong homework assignment. Sorry for the sarcastic tone but... 


HWH Leveling operations
vito.a

You probably have multiple air leaks and your aux compressor is not working.  

For now lower the coach all the way down first, then level it.  


Aqua Hot dumped all antifreeze
Greg Coffey

Its in the shop now and waiting for parts. Once finished I will have a better understanding of whats been going on.

They say 2 weeks,,

 


Battery boost switch inoperative
daveyjo

In an effort to recharge my starting batteries quickly, I engaged the switch the connects that connects the chassis battery with the coach battery (the one that helps you start the coach when the starting battery needs help).  I guess that's called the battery boost switch.  Anyway, something got lodged under it and kept it engaged and now it won't work.  It used to light up when engaged, but not any more, and it doesn't connect the 2 systems anymore.  I can't find a schematic that shows it.  I can't find a fuse for it (I probably don't recognize what it is called) and need help troubleshooting it.  Help.

Dave

2005 HR Scepter.


UPDATE CARB (California Air Resource Board) as applies to Motorhome
Tom Cherry
2 hours ago, Joel Sheriff said:

Tom, with respect, the old info in the thread was outdated and my bringing this to the table actually sparked interest.  I looked up old info this should not be a warning memo. Only thing that happened was I put it under the wrong topic and acknowledge same after doing and apologized for not knowing how to rectify.  The info for CARB is now updated and clarified because of my post. There is no need to reprimand as if I handed in the wrong homework assignment. Sorry for the sarcastic tone but... 

all this was covered in a PM to you and not ONLINE. You DID, offline, request that we RECLASSIFY or change the NEW TOPIC’s  category.

However, it was obvious that the required SEARCH, prior to posting or starting a new topic was not done.  There were no warnings nor were you moderated.

Had you followed the guidelines and done a simple CARB search, then it is assumed that the post would have been made to the existing topic. It was less than a month old and already had 82 posts.  Therefore, your post was moved and there was not new topic allowed.  That is how it works...  any UPDATES or comments about CARB should be in the ongoing or original, and fairly new, topic.  This is how the site was set up and how the staff has been moderated from day one.

Sorry that the PM response, which was made about 2 weeks ago is now upsetting you.

The correct manner that the staff expects is a response to a PM is a PM and not an online,  “sarcastic”  one…as you just stated.

Let’s move on and please follow the “search first guidelines” in the future.

Thanks….


2008 holiday ramblers leveling system
MyronTruex

A picture of the panel will help to identify the model. 


Rooftop AC troubleshooting
NAMVET77

Just talked to my AC guy and he agreed to do the repair later this week. Said he knows what to do. More to follow. 
Don


Battery boost switch inoperative
jacwjames

In my front drivers side electrical bay I have a 7.5 amp fuse for Aux Start, which I believe is for that switch. 


Battery boost switch inoperative
Tom Cherry
36 minutes ago, daveyjo said:

In an effort to recharge my starting batteries quickly, I engaged the switch the connects that connects the chassis battery with the coach battery (the one that helps you start the coach when the starting battery needs help).  I guess that's called the battery boost switch.  Anyway, something got lodged under it and kept it engaged and now it won't work.  It used to light up when engaged, but not any more, and it doesn't connect the 2 systems anymore.  I can't find a schematic that shows it.  I can't find a fuse for it (I probably don't recognize what it is called) and need help troubleshooting it.  Help.

Dave

2005 HR Scepter.

That BOOST SWITCH (check the explanation in your manual) was designed, as a safety to prevent damage to the “Big BOY”. It was never designed for continuous duty.  In fact, holding it on for more than the prescribed amount of time does this.  When the Big Boy is operated by the BIRD Module, there is a pulsed or lower voltage signal.  In your MH, similar to mine, the voltage is close 3.5 VDC.  The boost switch, sends out a FULL 12 VDC.  The coil on the Big Boy is NOT rated nor designed for full or continous 12 VDC.  Typically the coil heats up and shorts or burns up,

Many of the OTHER sites recommends “shoving a golf tee under it”.  There ARE some boost solenoids that operate with a full 12 VDC….not the Intellitec 200A (yes, the 100 Amp does…but odds are, you have the 200 A.

If the fuse is blown…odds are….the current draw….as in the current got way too high.  

Locate fhe fuse.  See your manual. DID YOU GET OUT WHAT JAMMED IT ON?

If the fuse blows again….the Big Boy is probably TOAST. Easy replacement.  Two nuts and two terminals.  Amazon has them.

there is a current thread    White Rodgers (XXXXXX pn).  Find it.

I just posted how to trouble shoot the solenoid…but my suspicion….it is fried.  The current spiked and that popped the boost fuse.  New solenoid, but you can test.  Put in a new fuse and follow the instructions.

Good luck….let us know…we all learn

 


steps retract but motor won't stop running
snoracer

I have a 2007 Endeavor 40PDQ.  Entry steps extend properly, but when retracting, the motor doesn't stop running.  Is there a limit switch that stops the motor when the steps fully retract?


TripTek 3000
Biljol

So i am a bit late in contacting you on this did you find the TripTek Model 3000?


White-Rogers 586-105111
VinceB
4 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

YES and NO.  You have a Battery BOOST Solenoid.  ALL Monaco's DO.  Yours is the Trombetta.  White-Rodgers was also used...maybe some other brands.

NOW....when Monaco started using the Intellitec System, then the NAME BIG BOY was applied (or was the Solenoid) so a vast majority call the BOOST a Big Boy.  Like saying that all tissues are Kleenex.

Here is the print.  

That Solenoid has TWO functions.  The White Rodgers Solenoid does the SAME THING.  It connects the banks together.  ONE when you PRESS and HOLD the Batt Boost Switch up front.  The OTHER...for CHARGING....

OK...NOW is where it GETS TRICKY.  There is SOME type of "Charging Control" circuit.  But the prints that we have are not complete and Monaco did NOT do a good job on what they gave out.

Your BLOCK diagram has the SOLENOID between the TWO BATTERIES.  Trombetta.  (or maybe White Rodgers....it was dealer's Choice).

OK...now read what is on page 213....  The first three or four sentences (Monaco will NOT let me copy from their PDF) say it all.  You have a BIRD (BiDirectional Charing System).  When you DRIVE....the House is Charged.  When you are parked and on AC or Genny, the Chassis is charged. 

NOW...what does this?  Probably an Intellitec part.  It MAY be in the black panel that you have to open.  It probably looks like this...

2005 - 2007 maybe higher AUX starting Solenoid Print.pdf 34.93 kB · 0 downloads

My head just exploded.


UPDATE CARB (California Air Resource Board) as applies to Motorhome
VinceB

CARB is starting to communicate well.

Received this in my inbox this AM:

image.png.1382c9cd439001970326ff1216141644.png

 

 


Is Roadmaster chassis related to Freightliner?
birdshill123

I remember that Roadmaster chassis was not part of the original bankruptcy purchase. The new owners panicked as they were afraid that they would be responsible for any recalls. The Judge for the sale of assets added Roadmaster to the list.zI have used bankruptcy and receivership as interchangeable. It really is different. But the company was not sold. Only assets. There was a lot of information and rumours on the old IRV site. For instance: Someone from Navistar was appointed to Monaco's board of directors before Monaco went under.  There were a number of unsold and partially completed units included in the assets. I think the real estate was also included. I do not know what happened to the campgrounds that Monaco owned in the USA and Australia. Navistar sold a warehouse of legacy parts along with the parts manuals to Northwest RV . When Rev acquired Fleetwood they honoured existing warranties  and kept the "good old boys" that provided tech support. Rev might have been Allied at that time. Monaco owners got zip.


TripTek 3000
Bill C

I have not been home yet actually. I should be home about the middle of August. If you wanna reach out then.


RR10S / 10-S Front Disc Rotor & Pad Replacement
Jim Dinwiddie
On 1/26/2023 at 11:31 PM, Jared Ennis said:

ISO part #'s for front rotors & pads for the RR10S chassis. We recently bought an ’06 Monaco Executive Rainier IV 500HP where the previous owner must have been a bit brake happy. I have the parts for the rear, but am needing some help sourcing front rotors and pads. The data card shows the front axle is a Spicer E1462W. I’ve searched but haven’t found a part # for the S-10. Does anyone have this handy? Thanks in advance!C15AF7A5-A775-4C35-9EC8-7BC120FC7B03.jpeg

We're you able to locate new rotors, I have a 07 Monaco Dynasty with the same axel and need rotors. 

Jim


Where to drop the solar wires from fridge top vent?
Bill R

John C - is there room to run rigid or flexible electrical conduit down the back of the refrigerator?


Battery boost switch inoperative
daveyjo

I found the fuse.  The fuse is OK (5 amp Aux start).  The solenoid coil measures about 9 ohms, so it appears OK.  Tom, the switch is no longer jammed on.  So I am still stumped.  Any more ideas?  Maybe the relevant fuse has some other name?


HWH Leveling operations
vito.a

When you get to repairing/replacing your HWH aux air compressor it is a Thomas 405ADC 12v compressor.  They are available from HWH and northwest RV supply, but very expensive.  

I've found the best source for the Thomas air compressor is eBay.  A new pump is slightly over $400, but you can also purchase rebuild kits.  

You can also install other less expensive air compressors if you adapt the wiring and plumbing.  but most of these are very loud at 2am.  

If you raise your coach all the way up on the air suspension you can look over the top of the passenger side rear tires and see the pump assembly hanging from the underside of the coach. 

Is Roadmaster chassis related to Freightliner?
hex_nut

The only connections between FCCC (Freightliner Custom Chassis Corporation) and Roadmaster chassis is way back in ancient history.  Both facilities were originally Chrysler entities.  The chassis facility in Gaffney, SC. was owned by Chrysler in the 1970s.  They were marketed under the Dodge Truck brand.  (My first class A motorhome road on a Dodge M400 chassis powered by the Chrysler 440 motor, which would pass anything except a gas station.)  In the late 70s (oil embargo days), Chrysler sold the facility to John Deere.  In the mid 80s, John Deere sold the facility to Oskosh Trucking.  Both John Deere and Oshkosh manufactured gas and diesel engine powered motorhome chassis'.  In the mid 90s, Oshkosh sold the facility to Freightliner (so it went back to Chrysler since Freightliner at that time was a Chrysler subordinate).  Freightliner dropped the gas powered chassis'  to concentrate on diesel power (my first diesel pusher was on an early Freightliner chassis out of Gaffney).  My current motorhome rides on a chassis that is labeled "Roadmaster".  However, it is actually a "Magnum" chassis that was left over from when Monaco bought SMC and acquired the Beaver brand and the Magnum chassis facility.  Interesting enough, the origin of the Magnum chassis facility can be traced back to a military contract with the Chrysler Corporation.  So, regardless of which brand name chassis most of us are driving, it can be traced back to Chrysler.

Richard      


Both air tanks lose air together
dandick66

Doug,

You need to follow the pre trip test that Frank posted l. I had problems similar to yours, but had never actually performed the test.  I ended up having a bad shuttle valve, several bad brake hoses, and I don’t know what else.  I never tested the brakes with the engine off before that.  Same thing with draining the tanks - I hardly ever did that because the air leaked out after a few hours and I figured there was no need.  I learned a lot!

 


12volt dash outlet
Jlalpaugh

The outlet I use charge my phone has stopped working. There is no power to it. I am quite certain it shorted out as it was loose and I think it sparked (smelled and sounded like it). Now there is no power to the wires connecting it, but I can’t find a blown fuse and everything else works perfectly. 


Battery boost switch inoperative
jacwjames

You might take the switch out and test it. 

I believe you can also test the solenoid by applying 12 volt to the small terminal.  One of the small terminals is a ground the other comes from the switch.  You should be able to trace one of the wires to a ground location. 


12volt dash outlet
jacwjames

Check the front drivers side electrical bay,

I have a 15 amp fuse labeled  " cigarette lighter"


HWH Leveling operations
Rboss22

Thank you for this very helpful info, tomorrow I will be checking the switch ad trying to determine is I need a new unit or not.  


Super Wall Slide goes out crooked - 2006 Knight
Petes Knight
On 5/4/2024 at 2:22 PM, Tom Cherry said:

John,

Pulled your manual and the sales brochure. There is now reference in the manual to a 25 ft Super or Full Wall slide. NOW….all that to say.  Very difficult to troubleshoot something that perhaps was a special build or a show coach or an experimental model. THERE may be others that are aware or have experience…but , from all the posts over a long time….you might benefit from the basics.

UNFORTUNATELY…. In many cases, the reliability of the full wall slides is poor.  Chris Throgmartin ( @throgmartin) was mentioned.  His comments have been honest, but not complimentary of them. We have helped folks over the years….I remember issues on a Dynasty and a Camelot and maybe a few more….the Knight does NOT pop up.

I googled as well as searched our data posts.  NADA on a Knight with a Full Wall slide.  So….that is unfortunate.

From a generic standpoint,  I DOUBT you have a HWH system….why…even in the upper food chain Dynasty (2007 to be precise), the one model with a Full Wall Slide and the conventional HWH system for the remainder….had a LIPPERT “simple” Hydraulic pack or system.  It was sort of “buried” or located on the Driver’s side in a bay….which is odd or very unusual.  It took a LONG time to get it working.  We spent time on the phone with a Mobile tech and he finally sort of “lucked into” it….like, what is “this thing?”  The THING was that it WAS an oddly placed Lippert hydraulic package and he finally, by using jumpers from his truck…got it retracted…so the member could drive.  I located a Tech nearby, who was really trusted and knowledgeable….I use him.  The owner took it in.  He diagnosed it.  A TRIPPED Circuit breaker.

NOW….that is NOT your issue…but I CAN tell you that I chased a similar problem on the SAME Lippert system….which controlled my two slides.  Only difference, I think, in your system and mine.  I have two valves….you have one.

BTW…I had three techs tell me MINE was FINE….but it was intermittent….and never “balky” when they tested and ran an amperage test….

HERE GOES….and this is real world….

First of all….FIND the unit.  If it IS a Lippert, it will have a motor with a Solenoid above it.  There will be a cable to the soleonid….and a cable from the solenoid to the Motor.  The OTHER side or motor terminal will be a cable to ground.

There are a LOT of bad advice, novice YouTube Videos on how to fix or such….and one was absolutely wrong and would mess up the motor. 

Here is one that shows,  but not in the best detail, what I THINK yours looks like as it is what was used in the rare 2007 Dynasty full wall.


yours will be slightly different, but the motors are sill the same design.  I tightened my motor studs after some use….the NEW ONE.

Check every connection on the large cables.  But pay particular attention to the motor.  Unscrew (power off of course at house and chassis) the nut holding the cable.  There will be a smaller net under it.  Tighten “snuggly”….but not twisting off, that nut.  That nut holds the motor stud (s) tight.  If the stud retaing nut(s) is loose, there is a HIGH resistance connection….and the motor is moving slower and the slide will be balky and erratic.  My slide is NOT as long as yours….but it did the same thing.

Do this SIMPLE TEST first…Have some extend or move the slide.  Put your VOM on the House Bank….I doubt the Chassis is powering….but can’t find a print.  If you are on shore or genny running….the voltage will be 13.1 or so…..if all is well, the voltage during the slide’s movement should stay in the mid 12’s.  But if the motor has a high resistance connection….then note how low it goes.  NOW…go to the Lippert unit. Out your VOM on the motor teminals.  Exercise the slide.  Whatever the voltage was at the House….hopefully no more than a few tenths drop.  Check the connections per the above and repeat.

IF the motor is drawing too much current….bingo….it kicks up the amperage and your motor gets hot.  Mine had, from the factory,the wrong size circuit breaker and I eventually killed the system….I figured it out TOO LATE.  New pump system.  The entire unit was about 40% more than just the motor….a NO Brainer.

That is MY experience.  Now….if you want to try a “trick”.  Take a vehicle….and put the positive on the INCOMING cable of the solenoid.  Ground out the negatvie to the  frame.  Now….let someone work the slide….did it run faster and smoother and not balky?  If so…you have a bad connection up stream.  Swap out the House Disconnect switch.  Cheap.  You have a great switch….but they break.  Mine was eventually the issue.  I’d carry a spare one anyway….so, putting in a new switch…Blue Seas….is good maintenance and might just be the problem…again….this is real world and I spent a LOT of time with Lippert, Monaco and others and finally, Frank. McElroy taught me the proper way to isolate a problem.  

THATS GENERIC….but I would not spend another penny on it until I had less than 0.2 - 0.3 VDC drop in Motor Voltage….while running from the House bank…

PAST THAT….If you have good voltage and can have someone check the current draw at the motor….it should be less than 70 amps.  Lippert says 65 Amp motor and to fuse or protect at 80 A.  Mine had a 150A…

 

Think I had this problem before….. broke a bolt…. It’s the timing…. One of the motors is off time…. Think I went inside and pushed the slide out button a little bit went back out and connected the rod, put the new bolt in and it worked….. 


Aqua Hot rebuild
RobinK

I know I'm late to the thread - but what is holding the aquahot to the coach?  Bolts thru the floor plate, lags into the floor plate.  Can you get to them?  Obviously you can, but any idea where they are would be helpful.

pulling mine out to send in for a replacement unit from John C.  Now just to get unit drained, pulled out and everything cleaned up for the new Bosch electric unit while this is all going on.

thx


Entry door
Steven 53

My front door has been hard to open. Pulling latch all the way to the left hoping it was going to open. Has been on my to do list among other things. I was going to remove inner panel to adjust the rods. Drinking my morning coffee opened the forum searching door handle found Frank's pdf. So I read the file and look for a bad bushing. Mine was toast meaning gone. I'm parked in a rv park in Riverton wy. Pop 10,000 they have an Ace hardware in town. Took a picture of the bushing from the file and drove to Ace showed the clerk the picture and she took me to the hardware aisle and they had just what I needed I bought 3 and drill bit. Back at my lot channel locks and drill in hand working on a picnic table started drilling but drill bit grabbed bushing and started spinning in pliers and busted bushing glad I bought extra. Went to my tool box for drill index used smaller bit and slowly drilled out and used the bit to wiggle the top of hole so the proper bit would start easier. Cleaned bushing and sanded shaft before installing bushing.tapped bushing on reinstall everything back together. Works fine for now a lot less stress worrying about climbing in a window. Again thanks for the downloads. 


Rooftop AC troubleshooting
cbr046

Part of my concern would if the line cracked from fatigue what condition are the other two lines in?

- bob


steps retract but motor won't stop running
tmw188

My limited experience with a Lippert I worked on once was that it had a built in load sensor I believe that shut it down both ways. That’s how it would stop if you opened it up against a curb before it was fully extended.


12volt dash outlet
cbr046

Mine was in the Front Run Bay  run through a fuse called RESERVED.  Could be anywhere / anything.  Go figure.

FRBFuseAllocation.thumb.jpg.345e7e245dcdda29f055b92693d14cfe.jpg

- bob


Aqua Hot rebuild
gjh2916

My Aqua hot assembly was not attached to to coach with any fastenerss. Held in place by piping attachments and tight fit in compartment. The tank it self was attached to the pan of the Aqua hot with small pan head bolts


Blue fire vs Scan gauge
Keith H.

I too am thinking about the Blue Fire. I  don’t quite understand how this ONE small piece of equipment can be plugged into the three 6-pin plugs thats in my coach. 
Any information would be greatly appreciated

Keith Howard

”I’m your Huckleberry”


12volt dash outlet
Jlalpaugh

I have a very similar sheet. But nothing marked cigarette lighter or 12 volt jack etc. I guess I just keep pulling them and replacing until I find it. 


Wanting input on how to upgrade cams
Keith H.

Can someone explain to me how to remove the camera from the mirror?

(use simple laymen’s terms, better yet, pretend you’re explaining it to a 6 year old

Thanks

Keith Howard


Blue fire vs Scan gauge
jacwjames

Here's a link to the site, the 6 pin adapter isn't sold anymore, you have to get a 6/9pin cord and then the 9 pin adapter. 

Blue fire vs Scan gauge
Keith H.

I understand that but I have three plug ins under my dash. One for engine, one for transmission and a 3rd one I can’t remember what its used for. The Blue Fire is only One Plug. I do see where I could buy a 6-pin to 9-pin adapter with 2 plugs on the end but how do I get a 3 plug Blue Fire?

OR

Am I misunderstanding the way it hooks up?


Blue fire vs Scan gauge
MHRookie
Just now, Keith H. said:

I understand that but I have three plug ins under my dash. One for engine, one for transmission and a 3rd one I can’t remember what its used for. The Blue Fire is only One Plug. I do see where I could buy a 6-pin to 9-pin adapter with 2 plugs on the end but how do I get a 3 plug Blue Fire?

OR

Am I misunderstanding the way it hooks up?

The bluefire only hooks to the ECM j1708 plug.  The trans & ABS are NOT used with it.


Blue fire vs Scan gauge
Keith H.

Thanks Rookie!!! 
That explains a lot!!


Blue fire vs Scan gauge
jacwjames

But the engine plug will also communicate the transmission temp, gear selection, or at least my Silverleaf does.


12volt dash outlet
Jlalpaugh

I have replaced every fuse, none appeared to be blown, and still now power to the wires leading to the cigarette lighter. ??? 


12volt dash outlet
jacwjames

May have to pull the cigarette lighter out and check voltage to it.


steps retract but motor won't stop running
jacwjames

If the gears are wore out and are not meshing the motor will just keep running. 


Aqua Hot rebuild
Ivan K

I don't remember mounting at the front of our unit, the pump side probably too easy to remember but at the rear I had to get to two L-shape brackets with machine bolts into the floor, a little hard to get to over a cablemaster in my case.


12volt dash outlet
Jlalpaugh

There is no voltage coming to it. That is why I checked the fuses. Seems odd there is no power to it but the fuse is not blown. 


Salesman Switch issues
Russgh

Finally getting around to following-up on my salesman switch issue. I've been on the road and had a few other issues to deal with.

The only electrical print I have is the diagram I posted above. Wish I had detailed electrical prints.

The solenoid is a KIB (I think) see photo #LR9806. It is located in the front run bay and is now bypassed. (see photos). I connected the large red leads and disconnected the small red lead. The salesman switch is located just inside the front door on the dash. (see photos)

Thanks for all the help. One quick question on the salesman switch, the red light came on when the generator was running, is there any other wires I should disconnect from the switch or solenoid?

Rooftop AC troubleshooting
NAMVET77

Bob,
The other 2 lines are good.  It broke from the tank being on shock mounts and there is a lot of movement. I’ll have to somehow limit the movement so it doesn’t happen again. 
 

Don


12volt dash outlet
PeterSchweizer
26 minutes ago, Jlalpaugh said:

I have replaced every fuse, none appeared to be blown, and still now power to the wires leading to the cigarette lighter. ??? 

 Next time use a volt meter or a 12 circuit tester probe  looks Like an ice pick with a wire and alligator clip on the end place the clip on a good ground and probe the top side of each fuse while in place n power on. Note: On the top of the small colored plastic fuses are 2 bare spots one on each side of the fuseable link.  This test will check that you have power on each side of fuse and tells you if the fuse is good and also showes if has power to it.

Having a general knowledge how to test 12 volt DC and 120 V AC circuits is a good skill to have.  Watch you Tube basic electricity n or RV too, to get comfortable circuits before moving on to AC power teating. 12Volt DC systems are easy and owning an RV or boat could save you time off thr Road and hundreds if not thousands of dollars troubleshooting systems before calling a tech $$$$ or going to a shop,  dealer $$$$$$$....


Super Wall Slide goes out crooked - 2006 Knight
johncvandoren@gmail.com

Thanks to Tom and all who offered assistance.  My problem was neither mechanical nor electrical.  It was simply hydraulic—or pneumatic if you allow for the air that may have or probably had gotten into the lines.  In the 14 years I’ve owned the coach, I’ve never seen the slideout reservoir.  It was behind the valve and so covered with hydraulic (ATF) fluid and road debris as to be unrecognizable!  All this time I had thought there was but one tank for both leveling jacks and slideout.  It didn’t help that neither shops nor mobile RV techs bothered to clean either tank nor fill them both when servicing the coach.  Lesson learned!

I cleaned it all up, found out the tank is yellow plastic, tightened the electrical connections, added 3/4 of a quart of DEX/ATF, and bled the air out as instructed above.  All good!  Thanks again.


Generator Power Source ?
Kris G

I have a 2004 Monaco Executive 40 PBT. Which Batteries Start the Generator ??? I’m having some slight issues with Generator starting, Have to use the boost and my front 2 slides as well as the generator slide are moving super slow ??? Wondering if this could be an issue with the Chassis batteries or the house Batteries ???? Does anyone here have any idea ????


Paul Brown
Paul Brown Jr

I have a 1996 Monaco dynasty, I am trying to figure out why I can not start my diesel.  I just bought a new fuel separator to install but someone told me to check the lift pump, I am trying to find it and see how to check it, Help !!!


Blue fire vs Scan gauge
96 EVO
1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

But the engine plug will also communicate the transmission temp, gear selection, or at least my Silverleaf does.

Scangauge does as well!


Generator Power Source ?
klcdenver

Ginny is normally on house batteries. You can verify by turning your disconnects one at a time and try cranking.


Generator Power Source ?
Ivan K

The Executive could be the same as our Signature in this aspect and generator as well as hydraulic pump would run from chassis. Ours does so from factory. Easy to check as above.


Paul Brown
klcdenver

You need to list which engine you have. If you installed a new fuel separator & filter you need to fill the filter with diesel. Turn key on and off about 5 times so electric pump can re-prime the engine. Hopefully you just had air in the fuel line and it will start now.
Sign up on Cummins Quick Serve and then you can look at a diagram to locate the lift pump for your engine model.


Rooftop AC troubleshooting
Ivan K

Don, since you will only have one port, I assume, fill it with the amount on the sticker. In my case it was 24 Oz but could be different for yours,


Paul Brown
Benjamin

As far as I can tell, you have a cummins engine, 8.3 but that doesn't matter to this question.  No electric fuel pump, a particularly NASTY transfer pump mounted low on the engine block and impossible to prime with the frame in the way.  It sticks out below and behind the injection pump, down inside the frame rail probably, and has a black rubber bellows about 1" diameter that you push in to prime, you should here squishing noise if it's pumping fluid.  If you can't hear the sound, easiest is to remove the small fuel return line from the top front of the injection pump and have somebody crank it over one turn and see if diesel comes out. 

Back up a little, when did the engine run last? did it run fine then? shut off normally? Is the tank full or low?  If the tank is full, and not parked facing downhill, then the next most likely thing is the fuel shut off solenoid, mounted on the injection pump but external so easy to see and tie open if needed. 


12volt dash outlet
Jlalpaugh

Thanks, I did every fuse with the multimeter using resistance and the top contacts. All tested ok. I replaced them any way. But I still have no power to the wires connecting the accessory cigarette lighter. Any thoughts? 


Both air tanks lose air together
Frank McElroy
On 6/30/2024 at 10:02 PM, GoWestMan said:

Demonstrate to whom? Maybe its different here but we have an initial inspection when you bring in an RV from out of the province (bought it in California, drove it back to Alberta) but after that, as long as it stays insured, there are no more inspections til you sell it to someone else.

Yes it has a line coming out of it. I think its the fitting furthest to the front of the RV.

Yes it has a line coming out of it. Im pretty sure the leak is at this end as I can feel the fitting subtly vibrating when it 'moans'. I dont think it would transmit that far through rubber air lines and still vibrate...but maybe. Im not in it for a few days but Ill try to snap a pic when Im back.

No I cant feel air coming out. Only a subtle vibration. And yeah there are quite a few valves and fittings thats why its kinda hard to pinpoint which one is the culprit. I even tried using a mechanic's stethoscope but its really an awkward location at the top of the tank.

Doug, from what you are saying, the duty cycle of your air compressor is 100%. You already replaced the compressor once and with this duty cycle, you'll be replacing it again soon.

I can't stress enough that if you are not able to perform and pass an air brake pre-trip safety check and you are not able to find the leak(s), then your best solution is to find a truck repair shop to perform an air brake pre-trip safety check and repair the leak(s) in your air brakes.


Generator Power Source ?
vito.a

It could be either but should be the chassis batteries.  The idea is you run your house systems until the house batteries are low and then start your generator from the chassis battery to recharge.  

Because it's such a long cable run many of these coaches require you to start the main engine first and put it on fast idle.  Then crank the generator.  

Some folks have installed another battery up front in the generator compartment to shorten the cable run.  


ISB 5.9 325 HP - Fault Code 325 When driving in Wet Weather
johnfr

We have found that recently our rig has became a fair weather coach. Anytime we encounter a wet road we are getting a Warning Light indicating an engine fault. We thought it had been fixed back in April on a trip to Texas. This last week on a trip to Wyoming we hit a thunderstorm and within a few miles I felt the engine miss fire. Within another couple miles we had passed through the storm and it started running normally again. Then about 30 miles later we ran into a major down pour. This time the engine began to miss fire and the Warning light came on.

A little history first. We have a 2007 Monaco Cayman with the ISB 5.9 325 HP engine with about 30K miles on it. On a recent trip as we were rolling through Weatherford, TX, I felt the engine miss fire and stutter as I rolled up to a stop light at the giant round about in the center of town. I looked down to see the check engine light come on. When the stop light turned green I stepped on the accelerator and had almost no power. It was pouring rain and we had been driving in rain all morning. I managed to get through the round about and found an empty parking lot a few blocks further down the road.

Thinking I might have water in the fuel I went back and checked the fuel filter and found no water in the bowl. The engine was shaking violently and miss firing and sounded like it was only running on two cylinders. I ended up calling a mobile mechanic that finally showed up some 1-1/2 hours later. He connected his diagnostic computer and it indicated the cylinders 5 & 6 were miss firing. The computer detected a Fault Code 325. See this link for more info:

12volt dash outlet
RBRODDER

There could easily be an in line fuse, trace the wires from the outlet back.


2008 HR Imperial Valid Air Leveling front right corner leaks down
DarrenD

Hello everyone!

I'm having an issue with my air leveling leaking down on the front right causing the coach to lean excessively. It doesn't matter if I use AUTO or manual level, after just a few minutes, the right front leans a lot.  When this started, I thought no problem, I'll rebuild the air leveling manifold just as I did the rear manifold when it started acting up using the instructions on this forum. The manifold was dirty and the old red stoppers were a bit brittle. All cleaned up and reinstalled, ready to test it out. Much to my dismay, the coach still leaned to the right minutes after leveling. I went back under with the soapy water, found a few bubbles on the manifold fittings and fixed them. Still will not hold the coach level. As a troubleshooting thought, I swapped the left and right air lines on the manifold. I had to level the coach manually as the computer was confused. After a few minutes, much to my surprise, the same RIGHT side began to leak down. I believe this eliminates the manifold as the issue. After all of that, I swapped the air lines back to the normal position and called it a night. 

Can some one point me in a direction to check tomorrow? I did spray some soapy water around the bags but didn't see anything. I also don't hear any air leaking which is strange since the coach starts leaning so quickly. If it was a bad bag, since there are two would it lean so excessively? I've read that the braided hoses that run from the ping tank to the bags could be suspect, I'll check those tomorrow.   This is very frustrating, any help would be appreciated. 

Thanks-

Darren

 


Generator Power Source ?
Kris G

If the Chassis Battery is running weak would that affect the Slideouts ???

I want to thank everyone for the info. We bought this 4 years ago and have had to learn everything on our own. I think we have done wonderfully, but it’s only because of websites like this. It’s saved our butts so many times…..


ISB 5.9 325 HP - Fault Code 325 When driving in Wet Weather
Ivan K

Usually the bolts are hex head on the ECMs I had. The Injector leads should be on a 60 pin connector, 10x6 pin configuration, the other should be 10x5. You say there was history for misfire on 5, 6. These are on the same harness pair, possibly flaky mating connector on that harness.

I hate when someone takes advantage of us, it took me an hour to replace the harness on ours. Different engine but it included jake wiring. Harness ~ 100 bucks.

Good luck! 


UPDATE CARB (California Air Resource Board) as applies to Motorhome
windsorbill06

My registration is due end of September, so I’m inside the 90 day window period. Appears I need to do the testing sooner than I thought. 
 

I just received the following email:  

Dear William Howard, 

Below is a summary of the current status of your William Howard CTC-VIS account:

1. Vehicle Compliance Certification Status: 
a. 0 Vehicle Compliance Certification(s) were issued to your entity in the last month. 
b. In total, 1 vehicle(s) are currently compliant out of 1 registered in your entity. 
c. 1 of the Vehicle Compliance Certificate(s) will expire within next 90 days. 

2. Compliance Fee: 
a. Fees Due Soon: 0 vehicle(s) are with fee(s) due within next 90 days. 
b. Fees Past Due: 0 vehicle(s) are with fee(s) already past due. 
c. Expired Fee: There are 0 expired fee(s) in your Entity. 

3. Periodic Test: 
a. Vehicles with Test(s) Due: 1 vehicle(s) have entered their test submission period, and the test(s) will be due within next 90 days. 
b. Tests Past Due: 0 vehicle(s) are with test(s) already past due. 

4. Enforcement Hold:
0 vehicle(s) are currently under hold due to outstanding CARB Enforcement actions. 

The status may vary from day to day, for more details and the latest status, please visit your account at steps retract but motor won't stop running
JohnC3

On my steps, I found the central post that the gears pivoted on was slightly canted from being loose. I need to disassemble the motor and gear plate and reassemble after inspecting the gears.

I believe you have one of:

A broken tooth on the gear plate

A loose mechanism so when the steps come in, the gears are not well engaged (so the motor never senses the steps have hit the stop and the motor keeps spinning.)

Either way, I think you should safely out of the way of the stair mechanism, record with your phone or look at the steps through several openings/closings. Look at the central bolt to see if it twists or changes it's angle during the process.

After that you would need to take apart the step retraction part of the assembly to look at the gear plate (this will be the plate the motor gears engage with that is forced to rotate and has a rod attached to it to move the steps in and out) 

If you heard clicking in the past when your steps came in, that would be the gear plate/motor drive gear being out of good contact and the gears slipping (that would make it worse as it would grind the gear plate/ motor gear against each other decreasing their area of contact)

You can find YouTube vids on this. When you take it apart, be aware there are spacers (don't lose them)

In the meantime, disconnect your controller to cut power to the motor. You should do that before working on the steps anyway!

This is  a not hard you could need a new gear plate, motor or neither, only inspection can tell for sure.


Paul Brown
Just Jim

More info would be helpful as others have stated.  I had a 95 and it had the Winn Fuel water separator on it that you could just push the button and it would prime the system after a filter change.  I've attached pictures of it.  You have to turn the key on and I would let it go through its cycle a couple of times after a filter change, then start it with the rear start switch.

UPDATE CARB (California Air Resource Board) as applies to Motorhome
Les Hurdle

Hi Tom,

I'm still a newbie.

Here's the real problem with the searches.   What some may call X may be Y to others.

I must say I seldom find anything via the search criteria

The note via Windsorbill06 is interesting to me.

I called the smog guy I have used for decades.  He was quite shocked to note I had received notification.  He said he was certified but as yet did not have the machinery to test motorhomes with diesel engines.



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