Disconnect both the small control wires, tape the ends separately then tie wrap them to a secure location.

No more red light on your switch.

Just Jim's post is correct, you can use the automatic primer control in the rear engine bay to prime the fuel system after a filter change.

As Benjamin noted above, the Fuel Cutoff solenoid is a common failure point. This controls fuel to the engine, so it's down/closed when off, keeping fuel from flowing to the engine and shutting the engine down.  When the key is in the "on" position, the solenoid lifts the plunger and holds it lifted, allowing fuel to flow to the engine.

Over time the plunger can corrode and not slide easily, getting stuck in the down or up position, or something in the middle.  

You can test this by using your finger to make sure the bottom of the plunger is all the way "up" when the key is on. You can push it up if necessary and even use a zip tie to keep it up.  I have had success with mine cutting a very small hole in the rubber boot at the bottom and spraying white lithium grease into the solenoid/plunger area. This has worked for 3 years when mine started to stick.

You can also test for 12v power when the key is "on" at the plug connecting to the solenoid. If no 12v when on, you have electrical problem further up the line (see attached diagram).

Note: The Fuel Shutoff solenoid can be accessed via the bedroom, with the bed lifted, facing the rear of the coach, it's on your left side, near the middle/rear of the accessible area of the top of the engine.

12 hours ago, Paul Brown Jr said:

I have a 1996 Monaco dynasty, I am trying to figure out why I can not start my diesel.  I just bought a new fuel separator to install but someone told me to check the lift pump, I am trying to find it and see how to check it, Help !!!

If it’s like my 98 mechanical 8.3 you should have a primer button under the fuel filter if that’s the issue. Also like mentioned the fuel shut off solenoid is a known problem. Maybe give us more info and tell us what happened before it didn’t start, sounds like it may have not started before you changed the filter which could mean something else.

Unfortunately, there are a lot of armchair attorneys giving you legal advice regarding your issue. Unless I'm missing something, you have not found the leak, correct?

I can't imagine it taking 10 minutes to find that leak, and then you can take the appropriate action either way; fix the leak if unrelated to the tire service center, or take appropriate action them. As one gentleman said, remember, sometimes $@#! just happens.

Please keep us posted.

1 hour ago, JerryW said:

I am in the process of buying a 2009 Scepter KFQ. The panel in the front run bay is Mega Tech of Oregon but in the bath cabinet it has Intellitec boxes. Is this a Kongsberg system or a hybrid. Everything is working as it should. I'm just trying to learn what I'm getting into. Previous owner swears he's had no issues in his nine years of ownership.

I am also curious at the lack of current posts about Kongsberg system. Am I missing something??

 

 

SIMPLE ANSWER.  The Scepter/Camelot are TWINS.  NOTE that I OWN one.  SO, this one will be identical to mine.

Here is the DIFFERENCES...and you can go to MonacoCoach.Com and download the Sales Brochure or you can GOOGLE Holiday Rambler Manuals and download BOTH the Scepter manual and sales brochure. I URGE you to do that.  That will be your bible.  I use my E Manual to use the Adobe Search and look up things. 

NOW...  The Kongsberg was ONLY used on the Dynasty....so get that out of your thinking...  

Here is what you have.  You have a slightly (some say a LOT) lower luxury that the Dynasty.  BUT, if you had the 2009, you would have had the Kongsberg...a WONDERFUL TRADE OFF>.. IMHO.

Point by POINT.

The AC's in each are identical.  You have a little less complex Aquahot.  More than adequate for me.  The BURNER assembly is the same.  The control boards are, I think, different.  BUT way more than nice and adequate.  You can heat it easily.  The AH will need servicing just due to age unless the Previous Owner (PO is what folks use) had it serviced...  The AC controls are identical.

Hydraulic slide system is different.  You have a LIPPERT...the Dynasty has an HWH.  Many were full hydraulic. There is a Motorized (Rack and Pinion) Lippert unit on the Bed. The Short bedroom Slide is an ACCUSLIDE - 8 cable.

The INTELLITEC looks the same....YES and NO. We have the HYBRID.  The Dynasty has a FULL CPU (Central Processing Unit). That can be programmed so that if you were dropping down a TV from the ceiling that all the switches and slides and NOT moving were part of a simple (YES) computer circuit. We do NOT have a PROGRAMMABLE CPU.  Ours has a small CLOCK or the NON PROGRAMMED Controller.  The Dynasty has 5 or 6 or maybe MORE Intellitec Output Modules.  I can hold my own with ours...  The logic and the programming and the various inputs and outputs of the bigger CPU take a whole higher level and I am OK...but not the expert. NOW the KEY PADS or lighted switches are IDENTICAL.  I am perfectly happy to give up the CPU and have a simpler system.  Others... NOT...BUT this is the ONLY NON Dynasty level that even has the REALLY NICE Intellitec system...

Some of the 09 Dynasty had a larger engine.  BUT the same 425 ISL was used as standard in both. The Scepter, unless it was a late year end, does NOT have the Jacob's 2 or 3 stage INTAKE Brake or the JAKE.  The Scepter has the Cummins VGT.  Actually the Dynasty has both an exhaust and an intake brake. I have almost 70 K on mine (bought new). I have done the I70W  Isenhower pass west of Denver. As long as you KNOW WHAT YOU ARE DOING and use Common Sense....the VGT is adequate.  YES...the Jacobs is better. IF I were only going to travel in the west in the ROCKIES and always UP and DOWN, I'd spend the $4K and have the Jacobs ADDED.  YES, it can be added and is really NOT that big a deal. You do NOT have to pull the head, you just order the additional parts and the switches and incorporate it...BUT, the VGT exhaust brake is good.  What I JUST wrote was what the Cummins Tech Support tech told me...before I bought it...

The interiors are about the same...except, obviously, the $100K or more MSRP gave you a little more luxury inside.  Water system is fancier...but they both work...

If you have the OEM Dometic 1402, I'd consider putting in the Samsung Residential Refrigerator.  I waited 8 years....WHY DID I NOT DO THIS.  We have lots of info on how to PROPERLY do it.  The inverter was a big larger in the Dynasty...but the 2000 Pure Sine Wave inverter is fine...

STEERING and HANDLING.  The tag axle will give you better feel and control.  That is a simple fact. I tightened up the suspension on mine. Added, MYSELF, a WATTS LINK.  Some have it....all LOVE IT.  But, it DOES take some of the OVERSTEER (the power steering is too touchy) and it reduces Driver Fatigue.  COST is maybe $1,000 and I did it with hand tools on a concrete pad .  NO JACKS...

The SHOCKS, if OEM are CRAP. I replaced mine at 20K.  WAS LIKE riding a boat....I recommend the SOURCE Engineering shocks.  Koni's are almost as good, but NOT AS GOOD...and they are price competitive.  SHOCKS improve the quality (UP and DOWN) of the ride not how it "handles" Source Shocks were specifically DESIGNED for the Roadmaster Chassis.  The stock Bilsteins are way down the food chain compared to the Koni's...and the Source is up several rungs over them.

The Tranny is the same... Allison MH3000....the engine and cooling are the same...as is the steering.  EXCEPT that SOME Dynasties have the Shepherd Box.  The Camelot has the more preferable TRW....and many folks have changed the boxes.  There is NO TRW that will work in Certain Dynasties...later models

That's about it.  I had the opportunity to buy a NEW Dynasty for only $50K (BOTH WERE NEW) more. I did not want to spend that much more for a MH.  I am pleased and would make that decision again.

BTW... I KNOW that the Scepter's electrical system is BETTER...and some will laugh. It is simple and OLD fashioned. The Dynasty has 20 odd or more PROPRIETARY boards, made custom, I think, for Monaco.  YES, they are fairly reliable and we are FORTUNATE.  We have TWO members that can repair them....

BUT, I can, with my background more easily troubleshoot and fix or help folks on the Scepters.... I YIELD to the experts on the Dynasty...but I can help with the SIMPLE trouble shooting.  SO, I like mine better.  BUT OTHERS like the Dynasty....

That's about it... 

1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:

Disconnect both the small control wires, tape the ends separately then tie wrap them to a secure location.

No more red light on your switch.

I THINK he has DONE that.  If you look at the ORIGINAL pictures, the RED wire was on the POSITIVE on the Solenoid.  I can't TELL...  It LOOKS like it is taped.  There is NO way he could have "Plugged" it into the fuse holder on the left side.

I'd PULL the power (fuse or pop out the switch and disconnect the power lead...it will BE HOT...12 VDC.  Once you do that...NO LIGHT.  Can't explain WHY it is flashing...UNLESS there is a "flaky" or open circuit in the wire from the Fuse to the switch. The output of the switch is NOT constant. It is ONLY an INTERMITTENT (Power when pushed to switch the Solenoid. The Pilot LIGHT is powered from the REAR back to the front and is a function of the POSITION.  Maybe a stupid feedback.  Disconnect power to the switch from behind it.  Disconnect the WIRE that comes back up front.  IN There should be ONLY FOUR Wires.  Power in. Signal Power OUT...that is the pulse... Pilot LIGHT signal from the rear and GROUND.  Take a picture with some tape and notes on each one.  PULL all FOUR.  That will kill everything.

Thanks Tom. You just took a load off my mind. I don't want to be subjected to the prospect of a "no parts available" scenario. We have been RVing since 1964. I have owned 2 Safaris, 4 Sigs, a Marquis and 2 Dynasty's and a Mountain Aire. I appreciate the differences of the two, Dynasty and Scepter, but like you, don't really want to spend the extra bucks. This particular Scepter is probably the best condition of any 15 year old coach I've ever seen. 108K miles and it's super smooth. Thanks again for your input. I'm sure we'll be posting again in the future.

2 hours ago, Coach J said:

Ok so I am having the same flickering issue but I am also having magnum inverter issues as well. I have an ac overload fault and after discussion with magnum they tell me my inverter is bad and I will have to replace. My batteries are BRAND NEW (like bought them 2 days ago when I noticed my volts decreasing and thought they were bad) and now they are already back down to about 11.5. I have tried to manually charge batteries and they are not charging. 
 

my biggest questions would be a magnum question!  Does the magnum power supply act as both an inverter and converter (I cannot locate my converter and no mention of it in my manual)

would your previous comments about the battery cutoff switch apply to my lights as well or could this be because the inverter is bad  

i have not attempted to replace the inverter yet as I am on vacation  just trying to make it a few more days  I am just concerned that if my batteries get low enough I may not be able to put my slides in to leave  

 

thank you for the insight 

 

First....lets do the basics...

The Magnum Inverter is a CHARGER and INVERTER.  It is NOT a CONVERTER.  Here is HOW the AC works.  AC comes in.  ATS sends it to the MAIN PANEL.  There is a 30 AMP breaker marked INVERTER. That goes DIRECTLY to the Inverter.  That is INCOMING POWER.  There are TWO LINES OUT.  One of those goes to the Microwave.  The OTHER to the GFCI receptacle.  That GFCI receptacle feeds all the INTERIOR outlets....maybe NOT an isolated on in the bedroom.

There is an ATS INSIDE the Magnum.  It is MOUNTED on the MAIN Board. There are TWO boards inside.  One is a POWER SUPPLY...as it provides power to the MAIN BOARD. The Main Board is the WORKHORSE...

NOW, since you now understand that ALL you interior outlets get their power FROM the Magnum... you need to understand that IF the Magnum "sees" or reads INCOMING POWER (from the 30 Amp Breaker...what happens next.  The Magnum THEN checks to see if you have a GOOD (not first class or fully charged HOUSE BANK).  If it reads 12 VDC and can send a few amps of CHARGING power as in...WE're Charging...FLOAT always has a smidge, then the Magnum's ATS remains CLOSED.  That means that the INTERNAL ATS is actually bypassing the ENTIRE Magnum board...and the power from the Main panel, to the Magnum (30 amp) is being sent DIRECTLY, through the on board ATS to your outlets.  OPPS...what is the ATS Relay is BAD.  YOU HAVE NO POWER.  What if there is NOT a Battery (some folks have tried to get rid of the house and found out....NO AC)...or the battery(bank) is a complete DUD...then the Magnum will NO LONGER SEND or PASS THROUGH the 120 VAC.

OK...Your KNOW how the charger works.  The Magnum, when it does NOT measure or SEE any 120 VAC (no shore or genny), it AUTOMATICALLY STARTS INVERTING or producing 120 VAC from 12 VDC.  There is NOT anything remotely connected or akin to a CONVERTER...  Just a little nuance.

When you get a FAULT, if you can NOT clear it or do the soft or HARD reset and you do NOT have any AC Power...nor does the CHARGER SIDE (which is also PART of the Main Board) then the MAIN BOARD is TOAST.  No way...to fix, unless you want to pump over half the $$ into an ancient device..  BTW...there are OTHER things inside...remember the POWER SUPPLY BOARD is NOT part of the main board.  Temp Sensors and fans and Circuit Breaker (Pins) and such.  That is WHY, to me...it is not practical, even if I were to do it myself, and I CAN...I would NEVER spend the money for a new board...get a WHOLE NEW unit and a NEW REMOTE....

Hope this helps.  If you have the SAME issue as the OP....then odds are...NO JOY FROM HARD RESET...NO INTERNAL AC or an ISSUE....and NOT CHARGING....TOAST.  BUY a new one.  Simple to install...as one says, if a MH owner cannot install a new Magnum, that is not that different from putting in batteries...then PERHAPS MHing is not the right hobby or pass time.  
The above is probably the MOST MISUNDERSTOOD Concept or System on an MH....and if we took a poll or gave a pop quiz...the failure rate would be HIGH.  THAT is why I explain it....MORE TIMES that I can count. I will eventually write this up and it will be in our files for EDUCATION..

Good Luck..

Thanks for the replies guys.  Here's what I've found so far.  The steps retract all the way in.  The gear plate rotates as far as it can go and is meshing with the motor gear all the way around.  Once the step reaches the end of it's travel inward, the gear plate is at it's very last tooth and the motor continues to run which then causes the gear plate and motor gear to ratchet/slip over each other.  I spoke with a tech service guy at Lippert, and he said that the motor needs to be replaced.  Apparently there is a nylon gear inside of the motor gear case that wears out and when that happens the step controller can't sense a change in the current draw and therefore it doesn't tell the motor to stop running.   So, I have ordered a new motor from E-Trailer.  I will give an update after installing the new motor.  By the way, Lippert wanted $358.95 for a new motor.  Amazon had a new Lippert motor for $188.00 and several Chinese knockoffs for $35.00.  I ended up buying from E-Trailer for $265.87 which included the cost of 2 day UPS shipping.  Amazon didn't have a 2-day shipping option.  

Just now, JerryW said:

Thanks Tom. You just took a load off my mind. I don't want to be subjected to the prospect of a "no parts available" scenario. We have been RVing since 1964. I have owned 2 Safaris, 4 Sigs, a Marquis and 2 Dynasty's and a Mountain Aire. I appreciate the differences of the two, Dynasty and Scepter, but like you, don't really want to spend the extra bucks. This particular Scepter is probably the best condition of any 15 year old coach I've ever seen. 108K miles and it's super smooth. Thanks again for your input. I'm sure we'll be posting again in the future.

Had you "said....MHing and such", less typing..  BUT, we always have folks asking about differences...and we also, unfortunately have some members that don't realize the differences...so when a Camelot owner has an Intellitec issue, the answer pertains to the CPU.  OPPS....ain't one and it also works the other way.

We, the staff moderate as little as possible...but we have to also remind folks that Monaco never made the same one....even in the same year....two in a row...so PLEASE understand the systems of each and only offer factual advice and NOT make an assumptions.

The ONE THING I FORGOT.  Order this today.  There is a MAJOR wiring issue in the 2009 Scepter/Camelots...  Brand is T Tocas. It is in the LOWER left side of the FRB...MONACO designed the 2009's for a GENNY slide...They put in a 150 AMP.  I  burned up my hydraulic system as the 150 never TRIPPED.  The 2008's have the 80 AMP...  VERY IMPORTANT...  from Amazon...

80 Amp Automotive Circuit Breaker with Manual Reset Switch Button 12V - 48V DC, Waterproof 80A

NEXT...  Before you do a LOT of things...  Check the Fluid level of the Lippert system up front.  CLOSED SLIDES... SHOULD be FULL.  Then pull BOTH Cables off the Motor.  There is a small nut on either stud.  TIGHTEN THAT SNUGGLY...Don't twist off.  These STUDS are like a carriage bold head....there is a rectangular terminal inside.  When the nuts loosen...the studs then make a HIGH resistance contact to the motor windings.  BINGO....overheating.  That is mandatory.  While there...obviously check on the power in and power of of the solenoid on the motor....WORD FROM THE WISE (and poorer).  Replace that SOLENOID with the proper amperage...

NOW, you may know this.  If the Hydraulic is OEM...the reservoir is the "Loaf of Bread" or the long rectangular one.  If you crawl under... THERE IS NOT SUPPORT on the bottom of the reservoir on the road side.  Many of us caught that.  We all fabricated a bracket from aluminum strapping or angle or whatever.  You want to get a metal bracket UNDER the bottom of the tank.  Put a piece of rubber (1/4") or a few strips of HVAC Tape.  Don't push it up or elevate...just support.  The seals between the Pump and Reservoir have been know to leak.  The unsupported vibration of the tank weakens that.  THAT IS ALSO A MUST DO.  I don't have pictures....but I found out in the first year that most "Seasoned" owners of that system had supported the reservoir...and NONE ever had a failure.  Lippert changed it about 3 years later and the NEW (replacement...like mine) is totally supported as in a square or rectangular cube and not the "Flopping in the breeze" style...

Other things will come up. I joined the Monaco'ers in 2009...and a year or two later was asked to Moderate....the rest is history...

Welcome aboard...

1 hour ago, Kenster said:

Unfortunately, there are a lot of armchair attorneys giving you legal advice regarding your issue. Unless I'm missing something, you have not found the leak, correct?

I can't imagine it taking 10 minutes to find that leak, and then you can take the appropriate action either way; fix the leak if unrelated to the tire service center, or take appropriate action them. As one gentleman said, remember, sometimes $@#! just happens.

Please keep us posted.

Yes I found the leak. It was the steering box and I’ve had it replaced. Please see post regarding the fix.

On 6/29/2024 at 10:55 AM, tomevansfl said:

I picked up my coach yesterday. Cost was $1,999.34 for TRW steering box swap. Yeah, why not just an even $2,000? 
 

The steering was a little stiff when I left the truck yard but I didn’t have to constantly turn left, right, left again to keep it in the lane. I never got over 45 MPH.
 

BTW, there was a white Monaco Dynasty in one of the service bays. 
 

Tomorrow we head down to the beach for the 4th of July.  I’ll be on the interstate so I’ll find out how much better it drives. I also replaced both front tires so it should ride and steer better. 
 

Thanks for sharing your knowledge everyone. See posting of fox  

4 minutes ago, snoracer said:

Thanks for the replies guys.  Here's what I've found so far.  The steps retract all the way in.  The gear plate rotates as far as it can go and is meshing with the motor gear all the way around.  Once the step reaches the end of it's travel inward, the gear plate is at it's very last tooth and the motor continues to run which then causes the gear plate and motor gear to ratchet/slip over each other.  I spoke with a tech service guy at Lippert, and he said that the motor needs to be replaced.  Apparently there is a nylon gear inside of the motor gear case that wears out and when that happens the step controller can't sense a change in the current draw and therefore it doesn't tell the motor to stop running.   So, I have ordered a new motor from E-Trailer.  I will give an update after installing the new motor.  By the way, Lippert wanted $358.95 for a new motor.  Amazon had a new Lippert motor for $188.00 and several Chinese knockoffs for $35.00.  I ended up buying from E-Trailer for $265.87 which included the cost of 2 day UPS shipping.  Amazon didn't have a 2-day shipping option.  

You MAY have this.  IF NOT, it is in our files.  THE QUICK and EASY troubleshooting guide. Basically, there is a CURRENT limiting circuit...don't think Limit switches, which is common on a Power Window Regulator (Motor).  That is ALL that is.  If the nylon gear dies...and that is usually the issue....REPLACE THE MOTOR.

If the motor failed in the extend direction, there is a high probability of a FALL....not good for folks that are over certain ages.  I am a retired Safety Director and FALLS was a major issue for our more "maturing" work force. My motor failed when my 100 pound teenage GD stepped on the step...it retracted. She was agile and spry.  Had it been her "older" grandmother, then it would have been an ER visit and perhaps surgery.  I can NOT emphasize HOW MUCH DANGER there is for anyone over say 40 or so that steps IN and OUT of a motor home...it the "locked out" step collapses....

Let us know how it works out.  YOU MAY have to do a little "circular file" work on the mounting holes of the motors....but do VERY LITTLE...

Lippert Coachstep.pdf

Great info. I look forward to a long relationship with Monacoers and my new rig.

use the search, which is actually required PRIOR TO POSTING.  The key word would have been DOOR or ENTRY or ENTRY DOOR.  Pages and pages of TOPICS...in the file is this.  This is the GOLD standard for adjusting.  TO SEARCH...use a Key Word.  Then click on EVERYWHERE...  Choose TOPICS.  Search.  Then do a Followup for FILES..  

I'd do the TOPICS NOW...lots of HOW TO's...and experience.  YouTube is great...SO ARE WE....

Congratulations on the new coach. Safe travels. 

On 2/21/2023 at 7:41 AM, Dr4Film said:

How does a mechanical switch accidentally "trip"?

In my previous Windsor, it was an ON/OFF switch with a White-Rogers Solenoid. Bypassed the stupid solenoid after it decided not to work one night when I got up to use the toilet.

In some newer coaches it is my understanding that they went to a Momentary Switch with a Latching Solenoid.

I have no idea what is in my Dynasty as I never use the stupid thing. I guess I should look at it closer in case it decides to not work one day.

I'm with you. In my 2000 Dynasty, the salesman switch is an on/off switch, It has no circuit breaker function. I bypassed the switch because it got inadvertently turned off a few times when we entered or left the coach. 

It would not start and I had a friend helping me and he sprayed some stating fluid and it started but stop after the fluid was over so I bought a fuel separator system to replace the one on the motorhome ( waiting for it to come).   Any way I am told now it maybe the lift pump because nothing is priming the fuel.

Thanks, everyone, I will check everything tomorrow.

About 5 weeks ago my wife stopped overnight at a Walmart near Battle Creek MI.  Earlier that day she filled up the motorhome.  The next day she stopped at a campground for a couple nights and then went to a friends house, she tried to start the generator without success.  So she revised her trip and went to her next stop at a friends house ~75 miles away. 

I told her she should stop and fill up with fuel and ended up pumping 112 gallons into a 128 gallon tank.  Silverleaf said she should have had +50 gallons more.  She was running on fumes, lucky she didn't get stranded on the side of the road.  BTW, she had 11 dogs in the coach, it would have been a disaster since temps in MI were pretty high then.

When she got to her friends house I told her to let the coach and generator run and look for any signs of a fuel leak, never found any. 

She started heading home a week ago and stopped several times to fill up with fuel knowing the tank was still pretty full, no indication of a problem. 

She left lower MI on Sunday and stopped in Lima OH overnight, only ran generator a short time.  Made it home yesterday, Silverleaf said still had 50 gallons in the tank.  I went and fueled up this AM,  Silverleaf said I should pump 80 gallons and that is what I pumped.   My Silverleaf has always been pretty accurate re fuel consumption.

Unfortunately the dash gauge is not working, It worked on my last trip in Oct.  So I've got to dig into that, but I seldom look at it but is probably would have triggered a LOW FUEL light on the dash. 

So it pretty much confirmed that someone pumped about 50 gallons out of her tank while parked at Walmart.  She did say she went into the store to restock groceries.  She then walked to the Sam's Club next door and got stuff.  The thieves were probably watching and took advantage of this. 

So a word of caution. 

Sorry to hear of this happening, glad the DW did not run out, that would have been very bad!

I know 'locks are for honest people' but my fuel tank fill ports have doors with locks on them (that I have never even tried to leave unlocked- guess it is possible).  Was there any signs that the locks were tampered with (I know, they are cheap and pretty easy to pick)..?

Ken

The fuel tank is in the same bay as propane, so no locks on the basement door.  The small hatch to access the fuel tank neck is locked but when you open the basement door you access to the fuel neck.  We don't have locks on the fuel neck. 

Last Oct I suspect I had a fuel theft but only 15 gallons.  I was parked at a Walmart also,  I stopped while the sun was still up so it was pretty early and I spent that evening watching TV and surfing the web.  I noticed a car meandering around where the RV's were parked, there were several.   I was keeping my fuel tank pretty full, usually 3/4 full or more.  So when I stopped for fuel and pumped quite a bit more then the Silverleaf showed I suspected theft. 

20 hours ago, daveyjo said:

I found the fuse.  The fuse is OK (5 amp Aux start).  The solenoid coil measures about 9 ohms, so it appears OK.  Tom, the switch is no longer jammed on.  So I am still stumped.  Any more ideas?  Maybe the relevant fuse has some other name?

OK….from the top.  First….pop out switch…the whole base comes out….do NOT pull on the top or actuator cover.  Use a small blade knife to lift up the base and wiggle…it comes out.  4 wires.  Or maybe 3…

Power IN.  ONE of them is gonna be HOT….if not….wiring issue…yes the fuse is the correct one.

Find the ground…use VOM in continuity….that is there ONLY to make the pilot light come on.  
POWER OUT.  If only 3 wires….then the third is output.  ASSUMING you have power….mark and take off the power IN.  The third wire will be the power to the rear.  When you manually depress the switch (out works also), then there should be a circuit between the POWER in and POWER OUT.  If 4 wires….then there would be a “feedback” or Pilot light wire.  May be a jumper with two wires….one  is the POWER OUT  and the short Jumper goes to another terminal on the switch….

OK…do NOT, under any circumstances, if you have the Intellitec BIG BOY….EVER use a 12 VDC WIRED JUMPER.  Ok to use a probe…but never hook up power and ground with jumpers. 30 seconds MAX is the FULL POWER or continuous circuit…that is for the 200A.  KNOW which one you have,  if you have a Trombetta or a White Rodgers, they are continous….a 200A Intellitec Big Boy ain’t.

Did you scroll and find the White Rodger post? That has specific and detailed instructions for testing a BOOST Solenoid…. Use SEARCH.  White Rodgers as key word or even WHITE.  Click on EVERYWHERE.  Select TOPICS.  Click on SEARCH.  Open that topic,,l posted near the end the correct procedure.

FEEDBACK snd let us know what is going on…

4 hours ago, Les Hurdle said:

Hi Tom,

 

As an octagenerian and now very used to 'fast food'.........  5-10 mins to find a topic is a lifetime ;-)) 

Perhaps it would help eg; if everyone called them 'spanners'........ you get my point I'm sure.

Thanks for all you do I for one appreciate it.

L

 

Les, I HOPE you were being your sometimes witty self and not serious.. BUT…you did hit on an oft and thorny point….which is becoming more of an issue…based on feedback, offline….

The staff’s response, as politely as possible, would then be something like this….If one only seeks out information and expects other members  to do the grunt work and is not willing to follow the rules  and research and do the work, then that person might not be a valuable or contributing member of our community.

I don’t understand the term…”SPANNER”.  The  members that pull prints and do research and noodle over things and then provide sound advice and input are the lifeblood of this forum….and newbies, as they learn more,  are expected to then emulate and help out…and contribute….

I won’t have the 8 until next year…Rock on….

Thanks…

What about making an aluminum gear?  EZ to machine . . . . then keep as a spare or sell.  Is it possible to 3D print nylon? 

Of course, if you hire out the machining it could cost as much as a new motor . . .

- bob

Tom, I for one have been on the receiving end of advise on "how to" within these walls but one thing stays true to form. You and others have over the last 17 years, made my Rving life 1000 times easier, if not possible at all. Thank you for all your hard work and keeping the colonials wishes alive. 

13 minutes ago, Joel Sheriff said:

Tom, I for one have been on the receiving end of advise on "how to" within these walls but one thing stays true to form. You and others have over the last 17 years, made my Rving life 1000 times easier, if not possible at all. Thank you for all your hard work and keeping the colonials wishes alive. 

Thank more than me…we do this for all the right reasons…..

Tanks….

Yep, my fuel doors are in a panel that is secured by bolts, not a latch.... so a "little' more secure...

1 hour ago, Paul Brown Jr said:

It would not start and I had a friend helping me and he sprayed some stating fluid and it started but stop after the fluid was over so I bought a fuel separator system to replace the one on the motorhome ( waiting for it to come).   Any way I am told now it maybe the lift pump because nothing is priming the fuel.

Thanks, everyone, I will check everything tomorrow.

 I'm not an expert on which motors came in what but I thought yours had the 8.3 mechanical like mine. If so there is no lift pump.

Do they even make a locking style cap? I wonder if a person could make up some sort of wire cable with a small loop on one end and fastened to the cap and another on a hose clamp that is clamped on the fill neck that wouldn’t allow you to turn the the cap with enough rotations to get it off. Not exact details but you get the idea. 
It might be hard to do on all coaches.

1 hour ago, Paul Brown Jr said:

It would not start and I had a friend helping me and he sprayed some stating fluid and it started but stop after the fluid was over so I bought a fuel separator system to replace the one on the motorhome ( waiting for it to come).   Any way I am told now it maybe the lift pump because nothing is priming the fuel.

Thanks, everyone, I will check everything tomorrow.

Check the fuel shutoff solenoid. It's not difficult and is a very likely cause for your problem.

A spanner is the 'correct' term for wrench !!

I tried to help a while ago re windshields and few accepted the fact someone named Buster in the high desert might just know a thing or two.

Regardless, for me, if owning an rv isn't fun then I might as well go back to rock n roll ;-))

Best

Les

When I first posted about this on in the Generator Won't Start thread someone posted a link to a lockable fuel cap that threads onto the fuel neck of the tank fill tube.  I needed to wait to measure the threaded neck before I could try and find something but I think installing some sort of lock there would be the best option.

Should be able to see the solenoid actuate which allows fuel to flow.  Look at it with key off, then with key on.  If it hasn't moved it ain't working.

I have a Toro zero turn.  I mowed with it on Friday and all was good.  Went to start it on Saturday and it wouldn't start.  Checked stuff and made my way to the carburetor which has a fuel cut off solenoid.  Pulled the wires and it started right up, plugged back in and it still worked.  Not sure if it was the solenoid or plunger stuck,.  But at least I know what the problem is next time.

Can get repair kit from PHD phone 260-747-6151 ask for : Linear01  AVP  3/4 x 24 -H9010  it is a seal kit

This is what I got to use on our 01 Dynasty,

found it on Amazon for about $50.  2” NPT threads to replace the OEM cap.

I believe it is a Stant brand cap.

hex-nut: Great info. We too had a mh with a Chrysler chassis. It was an M600 with a 440. A real powerhouse

 People tend to forget that the old Mopar was a true innovator. They were the first of the big 3 to have a unit body.  First in NA to hae an altenator. Push button Torqeflite transmission that was bulletproof. Drag racers modified them and were used in Dragsters. In the days of car companies participating in racing the Roadmaster engineers offered their expertise to the racing communities. The Mopar mh chassis was far superior to either Ford or GM. 

That looks like a great option! 

Disc Brake Parts. Caliper, Haldex 790-94049 ( JIT Truck Parts $1328 free shipping ). Front Rotor, Centric 120.86007 ( Ebay / Parts Geek $241 free shipping ). Rear Rotor, Webb 26741XM7T ( Iron Wing Sales $349 free shipping ). Brake Pads, Haldex 709-22012, Bendix 976003, FMSI 1441, ( Friction Materials Standards Institute, assigns standard numbers to brake shoes and pads). Here is a set with four pads. ( Find it Parts, Midland MPBD1441HD $220 free shipping ). Adjustment Shaft Kit, 790-94892, about $13. Front Seal, CR 35058. Calipers and pads fit all four positions. I hope this helps, Mike S.

OK. Here is the latest:  Solenoid (Trombetta) is good.  One can hear it actuate when the boost switch is activated.  But the switch light does not illuminate any more, so my conclusion is that either the switch light is burnt out, or there is a fuse in the switch light circuit that is burnt out.  It would seem weird to have two 12 VDC feeds to the switch (one for the light and one for the solenoid), and so if the switch actuates the solenoid it must provide power to the lamp too.  I'll pull the switch tomorrow and check further.   

BUT, here is more weird info:  The solenoid leads (disconnected from the solenoid)  measure 8 volts on one lead (to ground), and 6 volts on the other lead.  There is a small current going through the solenoid with both leads connected to the solenoid.  I vaguely remember some time ago deciding to disconnect the solenoid when I was boondocking to avoid any extra battery discharge. (I put a switch in the line.  It was on when my problems occurred.)

The coach is plugged in.

33 minutes ago, SL Porter said:

Can get repair kit from PHD phone 260-747-6151 ask for : Linear01  AVP  3/4 x 24 -H9010  it is a seal kit

How did you get the cylinder out, if you have? Mine started to randomly leak in retracted position again.

I was working on the cantilever rear hatch door on our Dynasty. The wire connected to the hatch door switch was all corroded and it separated from the switch . The switch connector was also corroded so I need a new switch

 It is not a pin switch. Somehow senses when it is parallel.  Where can I buy one of these switches ?

Thanks

Yes, but you may need to hit the starter to "pull" the solenoid in.  The run wire will not pull the solenoid in, it needs the start signal to pull in, then the run will hold it in.  IF the run is interrupted, then it will not pull back in with the run, and need to be restarted to pull the solenoid in.

From the back with the slide all the way out you remove the front piece and then remove the metal from the rod and then there is enough room to get the cylinder out. You will have to run the gen out to get to the bolt that holds the other end of the cylinder.

6 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

I THINK he has DONE that.  If you look at the ORIGINAL pictures, the RED wire was on the POSITIVE on the Solenoid.  I can't TELL...  It LOOKS like it is taped.

Nope, his photo shows the purple wire still attached. The one control post on the right is bare and the right side large post is bare.

Photos??

6 minutes ago, daveyjo said:

OK. Here is the latest:  Solenoid (Trombetta) is good.  One can hear it actuate when the boost switch is activated.  But the switch light does not illuminate any more, so my conclusion is that either the switch light is burnt out, or there is a fuse in the switch light circuit that is burnt out.  It would seem weird to have two 12 VDC feeds to the switch (one for the light and one for the solenoid), and so if the switch actuates the solenoid it must provide power to the lamp too.  I'll pull the switch tomorrow and check further.   

BUT, here is more weird info:  The solenoid leads (disconnected from the solenoid)  measure 8 volts on one lead (to ground), and 6 volts on the other lead.  There is a small current going through the solenoid with both leads connected to the solenoid.  I vaguely remember some time ago deciding to disconnect the solenoid when I was boondocking to avoid any extra battery discharge. (I put a switch in the line.  It was on when my problems occurred.)

The coach is plugged in.

Need to do some REREADING.  That is exactly what should be HAPPENING...

OK...Switch.  There were TWO kinds of Carling Switches.  One had a replaceable LAMP...the others did NOT.  This is a MOMENTARY Contact switch.  The light is only there, as that is HOW the switches are MADE.  If this was a ON OFF type, then, YES...a light would be GOOD.  BUT folks have opted to install a pilot light in a panel when the LIGHT on the switch went bad. YES, the Actuator (or the TOP) is removable. BUT, one needs a special (Cheap) TOOL...and one needs to have some finesse as if you "break the top", then finding the REPLACEMENT is difficult.  Monaco had, as all MH manufacturers and marine folks did, CUSTOM PAD PRINTED actuators.  I have the same (may be a different style or shape) switch for my Exhaust brake.  That is a HIGH USE switch...so the plastic (RED...ENG BRK) actuator broke.  You could still use it...but the top or cover was NOT locked or secured...  

I had to order a BLANK RED one with the write configuration.  I made up a Brother Label and it works.  SO, I would NOT think about even taking it apart to see if the Bulb is replaceable.  NOW, at NIGHT, it might NOT COME ON....there are TWO Bulbs, I think...one is wired to the headlights.  I FORGOT about that...so there may have been another wire.

Next UP...IT WORKS...you know your options and the pitfalls.

As to the BIG BOY.  Remember...you are NOT supposed to have a FULL 12 VDC to it for more than 30 SECONDS....  The BIRD Module, which you have, is what sends out a SIGNAL to the BIRD.  ONE of the TERMINALS on the BIG BOY is GROUND.  The OTHER is POSITIVE.  NOW the Dynasty system PULSES the GROUND.  SO...the Dynasty folks might chime in.  The cheaper BIRD Diesel 2 PUSLSES the POSITIVE.  If you measured the VOLTAGE across the TWO leads, assuming you do NOT have the FANCY Intellitec Custom Board....the voltage will read 3 - 4 VOLTS.  If it is at LEAST 3 VDC (across the TERMINALS....HOOKED UP) it is FINE.  What is happening.  The BIRD Diesel2 is an electronic PULSER.  It turns on and off the VOLTAGE maybe 20 TIMES per second.  The ON time is around 33 - 40%.  SO, your VOM, across the TERMINAL, reads the AVERAGE VOLTAGE.  Normally the BIRD Diesel2 will read 3 to say 5 or 6 VDC (forgot the exact top number....and the Dynasty Special board will read 6 - 10 or so....but THE SPEC is BIRD DIESEL2 is 4VDC and the Dynasty Intelitec Board (and maybe Monaco use the special board....one never know) will be 8 VDC.  Averages...you need an oscilliscope to read exact pulse width and voltage.

FINALLY... The BIRD Diesel2 or control voltage seems to be working.  

That is in the White Rodgers Topic.  DO IT.  If the contacts are crappy, you can easily take apart the Big Boy and clean them.

Report back on the voltages when it is working...and TEST when it is working...then will provide a link, if needed, for cleaning.

I SUSPECT, from your original post...the contacts are pitted...and you need to do the 30 minute cleaning.

Mine is hurting.

I would like information on how to remove the head-knocker cameras on my mirrors. 
i have removed the star screws in the side of the camera but the camera will not drop down. I have unscrewed the larger star screw on the arm of the cam but the camera will not drop down. 
i am goong to put a small plate over the “hole” where the camera drops out and then attach a cam I bought to that plate. Can anyone tell me and show me with pics how the camera drops out of its hole?

My coach is an 03 Signature 

On 7/1/2024 at 11:06 AM, Tom Cherry said:

YES and NO.  You have a Battery BOOST Solenoid.  ALL Monaco's DO.  Yours is the Trombetta.  White-Rodgers was also used...maybe some other brands.

NOW....when Monaco started using the Intellitec System, then the NAME BIG BOY was applied (or was the Solenoid) so a vast majority call the BOOST a Big Boy.  Like saying that all tissues are Kleenex.

Here is the print.  

That Solenoid has TWO functions.  The White Rodgers Solenoid does the SAME THING.  It connects the banks together.  ONE when you PRESS and HOLD the Batt Boost Switch up front.  The OTHER...for CHARGING....

OK...NOW is where it GETS TRICKY.  There is SOME type of "Charging Control" circuit.  But the prints that we have are not complete and Monaco did NOT do a good job on what they gave out.

Your BLOCK diagram has the SOLENOID between the TWO BATTERIES.  Trombetta.  (or maybe White Rodgers....it was dealer's Choice).

OK...now read what is on page 213....  The first three or four sentences (Monaco will NOT let me copy from their PDF) say it all.  You have a BIRD (BiDirectional Charing System).  When you DRIVE....the House is Charged.  When you are parked and on AC or Genny, the Chassis is charged. 

NOW...what does this?  Probably an Intellitec part.  It MAY be in the black panel that you have to open.  It probably looks like this...

2005 - 2007 maybe higher AUX starting Solenoid Print.pdf 34.93 kB · 4 downloads

Wow 

Thank you For taking the time Tom that is a pile of information.  I think I have my head wrapped around it.

My problem is that I cannot find the BIRD relay. Your diagram shows a violet and white wire going from the coil to the front run bay. That matches reality (at least a violet and white wire leave the battery bay in a big loom of wires).  if I put 12V across the coil the relay changes state.  If I press the "Boost" button nothing happens.  Next step is to check the switch and see if I can find the Bird relay under the console with the parking brake.

If the violet wire goes to the boost switch and there is no BIRD relay under the parking brake.  I will figure out why the switch isn't working.  Then my question is can I wire in a BIRD as in the attached?

2005 - 2007 maybe higher AUX starting Solenoid Print.pdf

2 hours ago, birdshill123 said:

I was working on the cantilever rear hatch door on our Dynasty. The wire connected to the hatch door switch was all corroded and it separated from the switch . The switch connector was also corroded so I need a new switch

 

 It is not a pin switch. Somehow senses when it is parallel.  Where can I buy one of these switches ?

Thanks

 

If you Google "tilt switch" you should be able to find one that will work.  These switches make contact when tilted in a certain position.  Old ones used to have mercury sealed inside.

1 hour ago, SL Porter said:

From the back with the slide all the way out you remove the front piece and then remove the metal from the rod and then there is enough room to get the cylinder out. You will have to run the gen out to get to the bolt that holds the other end of the cylinder.

Thanks, good to know that the far mount is accessible from underneath. 

Wonder how the OP made out.

My coach also has the Dana / Spicer E-1462W steer axle, but doesn't have Bendix ADB22X brake calipers!

Here's a video where the guy replaces a bad fuel shutoff solenoid on a C8.3 like yours for reference.

May want to get your fuel gauge working.

On my 2007 Dynasty, trying to inspect my steer hubs. In the pic, you will see an outer hub cap e my finger is pointing to an indent. There is another indent 180 degrees opposite. My question.. Do I pry in that indent to get the small hub cap off to inspect the bearings? I didn’t want to start prying on it without knowing. Thanks in advance..

Ok.  I went back and before I tore the console apart I thought I would check a couple things in the battery bay. 

1. I unplugged from shore power.
2. Had my wife turn the ignition on and press the boost button.....relay clicked
3. I had her start the RV while I measured the voltage at the coil. It would close when the voltage reached 11VDC and then open again if it fell below 10VDC. After about 2 minutes, it stayed closed.
4. Turned the RV off
5. Turned of both battery disconnects.  put 12 VDC across the coil... Relay closed 
6. Checked continuity across large studs... No continuity

So, in conclusion, I still don't know where the BIRD relay is, if there is one, and I would say the contacts are shot on the Trombetta relay.

12 hours ago, OAEVXE said:

Congrats ! We've got the exact same coach.  Love the full slide. Had it since 2017.

Thanks for the nice words!  Our issue at the moment is they (the dealer) is working to get the refrigerator working.  I suspect that when they replaced the inverter, they might have burned out a relay or switch.  However, we'll see.

Our plan for a shakedown trip this weekend is looking 'shakey' at the moment.  Hopefully, we'll gt some good news tomorrow!

For jumper I like to use a low amp automotive fuse.. in the event you create short the fuse will protect the system.

On 7/1/2024 at 6:12 PM, Jlalpaugh said:

I am quite certain it shorted out as it was loose and I think it sparked (smelled and sounded like it). Now there is no power to the wires connecting it...

Why does this make me think of a chafed wire that then shorted and severed... it should have blown a fuse, but if it burned up quickly, maybe not?  

Have you traced the wires from the outlet, back behind the dash as far as possible to confirm continuity? 

The smell suggests to me it's in the dash, and maybe there is a fuse back there, but replacing it may not get to the root cause if a wire is shorting and sparking.

This looks like a previous owner added another chrome cap over the aluminum wheel.  It might be as simple as first pulling off the lug nut covers and the whole assembly will come off.  Hopefully someone will recognize the design and chime in.

Yeah, doesn't look like my wheels!

1 hour ago, Jeff H said:

So, in conclusion, I still don't know where the BIRD relay is, if there is one, and I would say the contacts are shot on the Trombetta relay.

Jeff - I am attaching a paper that describes how my 2006 Windsor was updated to a BIRD from an IRD.  Your coach may still be an IRD.  The attachment describes the difference and also shows a picture of what the IRD would look like.  It is located in the FRB and if you look closely at the board your should see printed Isolator Relay Delay above it.  At least that is how mine is.

MTO IRD Description Update to BIRD.pdf

The Frigidaire looks great.

Can I ask a question about clearances?  In my 2005 HR Endeavor if I lower the fridge floor and make it with 1/2 plywood and add 1/2 clearance for the furnace top (Min clearance from Attwood) I will gain a max of 3 3/4 inches.  My Norcold cut out is 64 3/4"and I can get around 1 1/4" more if I cut out the top part of the fridge cabinet and save the space for my 5/8 deep roof LED light near the swing area of the doors.

This will give me a total of 68 3/4"total height for fridge clearance.  Did you run into any issues with fitment of your Frigidaire? 

It looks like it would be a great fit.  The Norcold was the maximum of 28 1/4" deep.  How do you find the fridge depth at 31" with the handles plus another 1.25"for rear clearance?

On 7/1/2024 at 3:22 PM, VinceB said:

My head just exploded.

Take two aspirin and call me in the morning. MH Electric 101 has been known to cause such…

Seriously.  My penchant is teaching…sort of a takeoff on the biblical phrase…”Teach a man to fish….”

Learning the basics of proper troubleshooting is fundamental.  Knowing how to and what to expect is the goal. Too many times members want the “quick” solution.  We find that often mods have been made or what the member “thought” or posted was in error…then there are a plethora of posts that frustrates and never solves the problems.

Members who take the time to understand and gain more useful knowledge as well as the science (or art if you prefer” troubleshooting by starting with the basics and then checking a component properly, usually end up fixing or repairing the problem.

DC electrical troubleshooting takes time, patience…as well as some fundamental knowledge…..but we have many experienced member that pitch in.

NOT CHARGING or  “it USED to work” or “what happened” are probably the most common problems we see.  Understanding the basics of the systems on a MH and wanting not to be stranded or at the mercy of an expensive repair is what folks want.  Unfortunately the first comment is…. “It don’t work…must be a fuse…where is it….can’t find it”.  Many times it is that simple or the Magic Bullet…but more than often…locating the real issue takes time…and without being there with a VOM and test leads and such….we have to keep it basic…

Hope your headache goes away….

Found the leak. It was in the braided hose from the ping tank to the right front airbag. I had checked the fittings the day prior and no bubbles. With the advice of Frank I sprayed the actual hose and there was a significant leak just past the fitting. Strange the hose would develop a leak there.

I went to O’Riley and had a new hose made. The hose is designated as hydraulic hose but it works perfect. O’Riley had the proper fittings on hand. 

Back in business… no more lean. 

I am looking at installing a Samsung RF18 in my coach and have downloaded all the information and researched all the forums.  There is alot of great information.  Thanks everyone for sharing.

I do have questions/concerns about my height.  Here is the dimensions from Samsung:

In my 2005 HR Endeavor if I lower the fridge floor and make it with 1/2 plywood and add 1/2 clearance for the furnace top (Min clearance from Attwood) I will gain a max of 3 3/4 inches.  My Norcold cut out is 64 3/4"and I can get around 1 1/4" more if I cut out the top part of the fridge cabinet and save the space for my 3/4" deep roof LED light near the swing area of the doors.  This gets me 68 3/4"clearance which is not enough...

What have people done to roof LED light fixture to recess it flush so I can get the additional clearance.  If I get this flush mount so the Samsung french door will clear I can get a full 69.5 inches of height. Which is shy by 1/2"...

Can I remove the adjusters on the bottom to gain more clearance?

White-Rogers 586-105111
Tom Cherry 6 hours ago

New Downloads

Daisy Chaining Surge Suppressors
Tom Cherry Friday at 09:23 PM

This document describes the rationale for installing a redundant or supplemental surge protection via daisy chaining a MOV surge suppressor to protect the OEM Surge Guard Suppressor ATS 40350.  …

2008 Knight Wiring diagrams
Steve P Thursday at 04:42 PM

PDF files in color totalling 64 pages from Rev Co depicting house and chassis wiring... priceless!

2012 Dynasty Wiring Diagrams
Frank McElroy June 26

Although this is not a complete set of wiring diagrams, it's what we have so far.  If anyone has any other 2012 Dynasty wiring diagrams, please send them to me so I can add them to this file.