7 hours ago, DarrenD said:

Found the leak. It was in the braided hose from the ping tank to the right front airbag. I had checked the fittings the day prior and no bubbles. With the advice of Frank I sprayed the actual hose and there was a significant leak just past the fitting. Strange the hose would develop a leak there.

I went to O’Riley and had a new hose made. The hose is designated as hydraulic hose but it works perfect. O’Riley had the proper fittings on hand. 

Back in business… no more lean. 

Thank you for posting the solution.  Over the years I've seen a number of posts with braided air lines going between the front air bags to the ping tank failing just like what happened in your case. 

I'm sure others will learn from your experience and check those braided lines when searching for air leaks.

Not familiar with what you’re showing but try using a paint can opener, get behind it and pull instead of prying it off. It would seem that the indent is there for a purpose?

2 hours ago, Jeff H said:

Ok, Fair enough, I will be careful with the nomenclature.  To your points

• Yes, I opened the box above the batteries and the BIRD module was not there
• The white and violet wires go from the coil of the contactor solenoid and exit the bay through the hole on the left and go into a large loom.  I will check the FRB for the IRD relay that Bill R describes above.  What he describes is more like they way the coach acted before.
• If I don't find a BIRD or IRD in the FRB, I will double-check the coil of the Trombetta when plugged in, but I do not recall 3V-5V at any time . 
• I will complete the rest of the tests and report back

Thank you for the help.

Thanks Bill

I will check this out at my first opportunity.

Thanks for the response. What is frustrating is that I don’t have the prints.  We have worked, extensively, with a Windsor owner, actually several, and the “Isolator” relay , starting is late 2001 was a FULL BIRD Diesel, later Diesel2, module.  The one that was posted.  NOW…the question, did or when did Monaco make the change on the Diplomat to the conventional Diesel (Intellitec revised that and called it a Diesel2).

The comment in the paper specifically calls out a Big Boy solenoid.  Hopefully that is correct and not the Generic, now commonly used, term for the boost/charging solenoid.  What is crucial to know is the signal type.  What is also frustrating…is that we only know a little, or at least many of us, do about how OTHER Brands work with an Intellitec IRD or BIRD.  Please excuse the “teaching”…but this is important.

The BIRD system or module was DESIGNED to NOT have a full 12 VDC signal.  That was to protect snd extend the life of the BIG BOY (the Intellitec soleonoids). All the BIRD’s, and I THINK the IRD’s sent out a reduced and REGULATED signal.  That is what I have been commenting on.  A VOM only “averages” the signal and displays the voltage.  

Here is the basics..

WHEN there is AC power (shore or Genny) OR when the Engine is running, the Module determines IF connecting the TWO banks together is needed to keep both charged.  There are limits on LOW and HIGH to prevent jumpering or connecting is one bank has issues or if the charging source is too high (like a faulty Alternator /voltage regulator). Otherwise, high charging (with high amperage) would overcharge and COOK or boil off water in the electrolyte and damage the batteries.

OK….no more theory on that.  Then, if the voltages of BOTH Banks…one not being charged…and one charging is within a limit….then the BIRD operates as FOLLOWS.

• BIRD measures…waits some predetermined time…(in the PDF that was posted)….lets say 30 seconds.  
• ASSUMING, which is 95% of the time, that one bank needs to be charged or “topped off”, there is a FULL 12 VDC signal.  Lets say it stays ON for 15 seconds. That CLOSES or ensures that the Solenoid is energized and the Coil holds the Contacts Closed…. Thus the banks are connected.
• NOW, immediately thereafter, the Signal or the voltage to the COIL is reduced to the HOLDING or Regulated (pulsed actually) voltage.  The BIRD modules are supposed to be 4 VDC, but they vary down to 3.2 and up to maybe almost 6.  Real world….my troubleshooting and countless members doing the proper testing.
• THEREFORE the coil operates at a lower voltage….doesn’t get as HOT and lasts longer.  The 100A Big Boy is rated for CONTINUOUS 12 VDC,  but the 200A is not.  Folks sometimes “rewire” and burn them up…or they read a “incorrect” statement elsewhere and shove a Golf Tee under the Boost Switch.  That will, per the manual for a MH with a 200 A, burn them up. BTW, the HOTTER the coil and Solenoid, the more apt to also burn and pit the contacts….thus Intellitec designed them for easy disassembly and cleaning.

NOW…one says….FINE…WELL and GOOD….my unit has a White Rodgers or a TROMBETTA….exactly why all the “teaching”??.

SIMPLE….this technology was evolving and Monaco was not exactly the smartest and they were “scrambling” to get a BIRD (both ways BiDiredtional) Charging system working as the competition was doing that.  They were perhaps “not very thorough”.  Bottom line.  Both the Trombetta and White Rodgers say “12 VDC Continuous”….as in, we are 12 VDC devices…and there is scant information on either website as to “will I WORK with a regulated lower voltage”.

NOW.  Final comment, we have had several members test their Solenoids and “Control Modules”.  Their measurements on the White Rodgers CONFIRMS….YES, 12 VDC is preferred or speced out…but they work FINE on the regulated lower voltage.

IN YOUR CASE….we need the same tests run.  That will tell us if the Trombetta is Functional.  That also tell us if the BIRD Module or control device is working.

YES….we need to locate it…for your mental sanity and also to have that information.  BUT, if the voltages and functions are working….then you know the system is working…but if the control signal is bad or if the Trombetta is bad….we need to know that….so we know which one to replace…

That’s the bottom line.  Pleass focus on doing the tests as written.  Then you will know if both are working.  The location or type of control module is important…but the issue is “is it working”.  Then if it is fhe BIRD, then its location or appearance can be addressed…

Until we, or at least I, have the test voltages and such…all the theories are  worthless.

Thanks….

Actually, all he had to do was to remove ALL small colored wires and attach the two large RED wires to one post.

Then if something weird is happening at the switch, it has nothing to do with the Solenoid at all.

First time I ever saw recessed lug nut covers on our Monaco coaches.

Strange indeed.

I agree with Todd, the indent is there for a reason.

We are camping for the week for the 4th of July. This morning the LP detector went of with constant beeping. It stoped for about a minute after I pressed the test/reset button and then beeped about once every minute or so . I did a little research and found that the sensors can get clogged. That makes sense since our detector is less than 12” from the floor. I brushed the Louvered  front with the brush of the vacuum. The light turned green and it hasn’t beeped again. 
 

I removed the detector to check its age. It was manufactured January 2001!

Takeaway: replace the detector every 5-7 years or as recommended by the detector manual and clean the vent ports at the beginning of every trip, every time you vacuum, or once-a-week if you fill time. 

The previous owner owned a trucking company. Perhaps he lost the originals and replaced with these. Thanks everyone for checking. 

You can turn the key on to the run position and go back and push the plunger on the solenoid to the up then start it. Mine started to fail while on the other side of the country and after a couple days of me going to the back to push the plunger up I did what Roadtripper suggested and it worked fine the rest of the way home. 

16 hours ago, StephenW said:

This is what I got to use on our 01 Dynasty,

found it on Amazon for about $50.  2” NPT threads to replace the OEM cap.

I believe it is a Stant brand cap.

 

I use that as well, but it does leak if the fuel comes up against it if not level. The original does not leak. I also have a cheap alarm/siren system that goes off if the fuel door is opened.

If it’s still possible, I would like 14. Possibly 28 depending on their cost!  What is the cost?

Keith Howard

2003 Monaco Signature 

Yes Les, you are correct. Registration is required now, they will determine your fees based on your responses and tell you when testing is due to have been completed. That prevents DMV from stopping your renewal registration. 

Right now they charged $30.00 per year to me.

Smog test ??? See what they have to do.

6 hours ago, Les Hurdle said:

So I might be clear............ no mater when one's tags are due, this CARB doc has be purchased 'now'?

L

Yes.  You need to register with CARB now.  The actual deadline was 2/1/2024.   I don’t think they are doing any late penalties, at least I haven’t heard of any.  You will be paying for both 2023 and 2024.   You will get  monthly emails from them.   You will be notified by them 90 days prior to your registration due date that a smog test is required or DMV will not renew.  That gives you some time to get a smog done. My 90 day period just started.  I posted that  email earlier. Many smog places don’t have the equipment to do opacity testing as the volume is not worth the  upfront testing equipment expense, so it may take some calling around. 

 

So all of this was supposed to be done early '23 yet for eg; I have only just been notified.  Oh well.

1 hour ago, tomevansfl said:

We are camping for the week for the 4th of July. This morning the LP detector went of with constant beeping. It stoped for about a minute after I pressed the test/reset button and then beeped about once every minute or so . I did a little research and found that the sensors can get clogged. That makes sense since our detector is less than 12” from the floor. I brushed the Louvered  front with the brush of the vacuum. The light turned green and it hasn’t beeped again. 
 

I removed the detector to check its age. It was manufactured January 2001!

Takeaway: replace the detector every 5-7 years or as recommended by the detector manual and clean the vent ports at the beginning of every trip, every time you vacuum, or once-a-week if you fill time. 

FWIW….AMEN.  Also, as an Ex Safety Director that had insurance fire protection responsibilities as well as the “mechanical end” and inspected large plants and their fire alarms and sprinkler systems….

My advice.  Monaco used ONE company.  Both for the Propane upfront (on toe kick) and the CO in the Bedroom ceiling.  I stick with them.  If you cannot locate or are unsure of the specific model number…Google them and CALL.  Their tech support is great.  Get the new numbers.  They actually tell you to order from Amazon as their website prices are higher.  If one wants, there is a tan or beige propane detector….

I could NOT reach the 2 pin plugs….some did.  I just cut off the wire right at the detector. I use a crimped butt splice.  Next time I do that, I cut off, just behind the butt splice, and use a new crimped butt splice.  At this rate, I’ll run out of wire in 2050…. LOL.

While there…look at the date on the front Smoke Detector.  It is an RV rated one,  I don’t try to save a few dollars on life and safety devices….use an RV RATED ONE.  

The lives on each device are different or may be different….Smoke is usually 10 and CO is or was 7.  Propane??  Can’t recall.  Just put a note inside a cabinet or put on your 10 year calendar…

THANKS FOR POSTING THIS…VERY I!PORTANT

On 3/19/2024 at 1:14 PM, georgecederholm said:

Dennis,

I think the LP detector is wired into the chassis battery circuits on many older models, possibly to better support a “always on” operation (questionable logic, of course). The fuse block usually located in the bedroom, sometimes in the closet, is fed by the house battery circuits.

Late to the party.  The two alarms are on a fused  HOT LINE somewhere.  By CODE, the detectors will NOT BE TURNED OFF when the House Battery disconnect is turned off…

I know that my local Lowes usually has a RF18 on display, suggest you go measure the height of the door as it swings out.  You might go and measure.

In my case the furnace was elevated 1  5/8" above the floor, this was in order to run a propane line underneath for the fridge.  No fridge no propane needed so I was able to lower the furnace.  Still a very tight fir, my Windsor has the lower ceiling height.  I ended up using heavy conduit strut material and made two legs that the fridge rests on and left it open for air flow. 

I did have to cut/drill new intake and exhaust holes for furnace, which was the most intimidating part of the job.  To accomplish this I took the cover plate form the furnace pipe that had 4 holes in the corners, this gave me the location of the existing holed.  Took a 3/4" piece of wood to use as a template, mounted the plate and traced the hole, took the plate off and measured down 1 5/8"  to locate center of new holed.  Used a hole saw and cut new holes the correct size.  Drill the 4 holes used to mount the cover plate all the way through with a small bit and then fastened the template to the side of the coach.  Then used the hole saw to drill through the side of the coach.  This left me with two 1/2 moon pieces that I then glued to fill in the upper part of the old holes.  In the end I had two holes that the furnace mated to when I mounted it on the floor. 

When I removed the Norcold refrigerator they used some polished aluminum to make a heat diverter at the top.  I cut a piece out to that and used the template to cut new holes through it and then used the original chrome comvert plate over that.  Can't really tell the exhaust had been modified. 

I replace my CO detector last year, it started to beep indicating end of life, Not sure if had been changed before that but we owned the coach for ~14 years. 

Then started wondering about the propane detector, so decided to take a look.  There was no light on it, and to be honest couldn't remember if it ever did.  So I took the cover off to inspect.  When the detector was originally installed they mounted it very close to the floor but is pretty much at the elevation of the slide floor and there was not enough  room for the detector and someone forced it into the opening and broke the back of the detector. 

So I bought a new one, modified the hole so I could get the detector to fit and wired it up.

My wife got back from her trip on Monday, Tuesday AM for some reason the propane detector was going off.  I reset it and so far it hasn't started again. 

There are screws holding the door awning against the side of the coach that are accessible with the awning out. Once you remove these screws and retract the awning, you can rotate it up and disengage it from its mounting rail. On my coach, there was a strip of foam seal squished between the awning and coach that was allowing water to drain down. This could also allow leaks into the wall through the screw holes. I replaced with a strip of weather strip then put a bead if sealant along the interlocking mounting rail at the top. This stopped my leaks. 

Another reason I have cameras on both sides of my coach. I would think your dogs would have been raising hell if someone was messing with your coach.

15 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

This looks like a previous owner added another chrome cap over the aluminum wheel.  It might be as simple as first pulling off the lug nut covers and the whole assembly will come off.  Hopefully someone will recognize the design and chime in.

I think your right about the aftermarket caps!

The lug nut's on Accuride's, nor Alcoa's (as far as I know), are in recessed holes.

The cap I got was vented so I plugged the vent hole to prevent any spillage.

It could be a tilt switch or a magnetic switch.
Does it have another part on the door that is adjacent to it when the door is closed?
If so, that's a common alarm switch.  Try to find one that's waterproof.

3 hours ago, Les Hurdle said:

So all of this was supposed to be done early '23 yet for eg; I have only just been notified.  Oh well.

 

 

Yep.   Re-read this entire thread.  You’re not alone when it comes to receiving little or no communication. There are several comments about it. 
 

I’ve read threads on irv2, Facebook, and others.  Most of them are posting wrong information and really not beneficial to anyone.  
 

my intent when I started this thread, was hopefully keep to the facts as they became known. Not “what ifs”. So far, so good. 
 

I appreciate Tom and the other moderators keeping this thread focused  

Does anyone know where I can locate the color codes for my 2006 Diplomat? I'm trying to locate small files of touch-up paint. The photo looks darker than the actual coach.

I'll call AAA and see what they have to say next week

THNX to all

L

1 hour ago, Kenster said:

Does anyone know where I can locate the color codes for my 2006 Diplomat? I'm trying to locate small files of touch-up paint. The photo looks darker than the actual coach.

The codes were in the “ORIGINAL” file or briefcase that had the manual and all the component’s operating manuals.  I, as the original owner, have mine.  REV MAY or may NOT have them.  It might take a phone call or two and maybe “try it again”, to see if the tech support person has the knowhow….as well as to see what Monaco’s data base has.  The codes were not on the OEM MSRP sheet nor the “RV Data Card”….but on a separate sheet and Monaco gave me 6 small containers of touch up paint….still residing in a sealed plastic bag in the refrigerator (much to DW’s chagrin).

IF a member has the OEM file for the exact paint or model scheme…..then you are in luck.  I don’t know if that info was on file towards the end with Monaco.  As the IT lads and lasses updated the systems, then importing large data bases was problematic.  Non essentials like the paint codes were usually the first cull.

YOU MIGHT download the Sales Brochure…. Then get the “color scheme” or the fancy name for it.  Then start googling RV and MH Body and Paint repair shops in Elkhart and Eugene.   Then call them and ask if there is a book or charts that the local paint distributors (the color mixers) have….lots of info is out there in various forms….don’t know if a shop or such ever got hold of Monaco’s spec sheets…

Googling. Paint Code Data Base Monaco MH paint codes…..  try other variations….

2006 Diplomat touch up paint
hex_nut 13 hours ago