Monacoers Daily News

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I'm home from my trip.  I'll tear into the genny soon.  I never did find the third fuse.  Anyone give me any more directions to find it?

Also, assuming the 35 error code is correct, I must remove the front section of the genny, containing the electronics.  Anyone done this?  I'm sure I'll figure it out, but anyone's experience would be welcome.  Looks like I have to slide the genny back a few inches to get the room, but there are only four bolts holding it to the slide.

I'll also have to build a lightweight, but bulletproof, wooden box to ship it to Flight Systems and back.

16 hours ago, Kevin Wald said:

I had same a month ago, 2006 Signature Commander  

A 90 degree air fitting below the park brake push-pull on-off button was leaking.

My tanks would leak down in 30 minutes, now hold for three days  

 

Good tip. I'll check that.

Mines booked into a shop next week if nothing turns up.

I am looking for a parts list for my 1996 Monaco Windsor 34' Motorhome. Specifically for the Roadmaster R-2800 Chassis it sits on.

Would a service manual / parts list be available for this chassis?

I need replacement parts for the front driveline, such as new passenger side spindle and wheel bearings.

Please advise if these are common parts and what manufacture made these components.

Thanks.

OK, I pulled out the switch.

First off, as you can see, there was what appears to be an unnecessary plastic extension to the switch labeled BOOST START as you can see in this photo.  Guess that doesn't matter, just seemed weird.  Two of the purple leads (labeled BATT BOOST on the wires themselves) go to the spst switch which, when connected by the switch, actuate the solenoid.  The other 2 pins on the switch go to a dual orange lead and a dual white lead (measures ground).  I measure no voltage on them, switch actuated or not.  Applying an independent 12V to the other two pins of the switch illuminates the light bulb within the switch.  see pic 1

So it appears as the battery boost system works but no switch light comes on.

My recollection (could be faulty) was that the light in the switch came on when connecting the batteries using the switch.  But it was a while ago when I did it and have only done it a couple of times, so maybe it never came on and I could tell it jumpered them because the coach would start.  Anyone else – does the light come on when you activate the battery boost switch?

Now a related question.  In the front run box is a box labeled ISOLATOR RELAY DELAY attached just below the fuses.  see pic 2

It apparently failed before I owned the coach, as the 3 leads connected to the ISOLATER RELAY DELAY are cut and the device has apparently been replaced by the device labeled Bi-Directional Isolator Delay Diesel-2.  See pic 3

Could this be related to when the coach batteries are connected to the chassis batteries so as to charge both sets of batteries?  Maybe it is related to my battery boost light not working?

Thanks for the help.

Dave

..

The front axle should have a metal tag on it with manufacturer and model number. Look that up and hopefully will have the info you need.

1 hour ago, daveyjo said:

OK, I pulled out the switch.

First off, as you can see, there was what appears to be an unnecessary plastic extension to the switch labeled BOOST START as you can see in this photo.  Guess that doesn't matter, just seemed weird.  Two of the purple leads (labeled BATT BOOST on the wires themselves) go to the spst switch which, when connected by the switch, actuate the solenoid.  The other 2 pins on the switch go to a dual orange lead and a dual white lead (measures ground).  I measure no voltage on them, switch actuated or not.  Applying an independent 12V to the other two pins of the switch illuminates the light bulb within the switch.  see pic 1

So it appears as the battery boost system works but no switch light comes on.

My recollection (could be faulty) was that the light in the switch came on when connecting the batteries using the switch.  But it was a while ago when I did it and have only done it a couple of times, so maybe it never came on and I could tell it jumpered them because the coach would start.  Anyone else – does the light come on when you activate the battery boost switch?

Now a related question.  In the front run box is a box labeled ISOLATOR RELAY DELAY attached just below the fuses.  see pic 2

 

It apparently failed before I owned the coach, as the 3 leads connected to the ISOLATER RELAY DELAY are cut and the device has apparently been replaced by the device labeled Bi-Directional Isolator Delay Diesel-2.  See pic 3

Could this be related to when the coach batteries are connected to the chassis batteries so as to charge both sets of batteries?  Maybe it is related to my battery boost light not working?

Thanks for the help.

Dave

That DEVICE is a BIRD or Bi-Directional Charging Module. Someone has UPGRADED the MH from the ISOLATION device (the 3 wire device....to the FULL & BiDirectional device...which allows the HOUSE to be Charged from Chassis while driving.  The Chassis will also be charged from the HOUSE while plugged in.  This assumes 50 Amp or 30 Amp.  If you don't have that SHORE available...then the GENNY will provide that.

READ ALL ABOUT IT... See the PDF....ALSO read, carefully, this next TOPIC, which I will attach at the end..  It details exactly HOW to test the BIRD Module. 

The testing must be done in phases and you must do some prep work....Summarizing...

Disconnect the BATTERY wires (the output) from you solar. OR cover the Solar Panel with a tarp or blanket.

You will need a HELPER.

You start by measuring the terminals on the BIRD.  WITH Batteries Disconnected (turn off Switches) and then you work your way through the testing.

You will also need to go to the rear to test the Big Boy Solenoid.  The SOLENOID terminal is the WIRE that goes to the BIG Boy. NOW...since this was an ADD ON....we DO NOT TRUST ANYONE.  LOL...we have been FOOLED when folks say... "It's wOred (Southern pronouned as in TIRES are TARS -Like Road Tar) just like it woulda been at the factory"....

SO, the FIRST TEST.   NOT in the instruction or write up.  DISCONNECT the Solenoid wire.  OK...the SAFE WAY.  Get a 5 Amp fuse.  Insert the Terminal in the WIRE...(solenoid). Then have someone stand in the back with their hand on the BOOST Solenoid.  I can't really recall if you have the Intellitec or a Trombetta or White Rodgers.  SO, they can safely put their hand on it.  NOW, have a wire from any 12 VDC source.  Touch or ATTACH the 12 VDC wire to the OTHER terminal on the FUSE.  BINGO....CLUNK or the Boost Solenoid should engage.  IF that doesn't happen... Then the wiring is not correct...and that is a whole other issue.

Once you have the CIRCUIT tested so that the SOLENOID wire is connected to the Boost Solenoid....then proceed to test as outlined...

BTW.  When you start to measure the VOLTAGE on the TWO small (Control wires to the COIL) terminals on the Boost Solenoid.  That will be MUCH LOWER.  It is a Pulsed or REGULATED output.  It will range between 3 and maybe 5 or 6 VDC.  That is outlines in the PDF...but it usually CONFUSES FOLKS...  They POST...that BIRD is broken....it only puts out low VOLTAGE.  NOPE...that is the design.  The lower, regulated voltage (mine is about 3.4 VDC keeps the COIL cooler.

Here's the TOPIC.  LONG, but it is what is necessary.  It is GOOD that the BIRD is there.  Now testing it...and THEN testing the BOOST is next...

BTW...it JUST HIT ME.  I wrote up how to TEST the BOOST solenoid.  I will attach that thread.  Did that this morning.  YOUR OLD SYSTEM was exactly this way.  BUT, the BIRD modernized it.  SO, you can TEST the Boost like or in the steps of the TROMBETTA...that is the WHITE RODGERs post...so NOW there are TWO.

Ain't MH'ing FUN and you learn all sort of skills....but your POCKET BOOK stays FULL....TRUST ME ON THAT.... 

GOOD Diesel 2 BIRD system.pdf

See if the light comes on when the light switch is pulled out and dimmer turned on full.  Most of my switches light up when it do that, I think it's for night driving.

In our Downloads section there are files with service manuals and parts lists. 

You need to know the axle model number as Kenneth mentioned. 

Once you have that, if it's an Eaton/Dana/Spicer axle, the link below will give you an option to look up the parts you need and the service manuals. 

Click on the title "Dana Eaton Spicer..." not "Download this file" to get the full listing of available downloads for all the service and parts manuals for all the axles on your coach. 

23 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

See if the light comes on when the light switch is pulled out and dimmer turned on full.  Most of my switches light up when it do that, I think it's for night driving.

YES, Almost ALL the Carling switches, or at least the majority, have a DASH LIGHT wire or Bulb.  That, as Jim says, is controlled by the Dash Lights Dimmer Switch.

NOW, if there is a PILOT light....that will be a SECOND Bulb.

Personally...I think the issue is resolved.  PULL ALL THE WIRES LOOSE on the Switch. You have BYPASSED the Salesman Solenoid....The CONTROL wire or the POSITIVE is disconnected.  NOW...there is ONE fuse in that Solenoid.  PULL that SUCKER.  It is NOT being controlled by anything.  I don't see how the switch up front is doing anything.... except being a worrisome nuance...

Now concentrate on WHAT started this thread...the misuse of the BOOST for Charging instead of troubleshooting the BIRD and BOOST....LOTS TO DO THERE...

The pipe threads on our fuel tanks fuel fill tubes are actually NPS (straight) not NPT (tapered).

,Maybe this information could be helpful for those wanting know more specifics on the engine they have.

I looked at my access to CUMMINS PARTS. I entered my engine number. The drop down menu gave me access to my ENGINE DATA PLATE,  and it had an EPA build data. 

I looked on GOOGLE with the number and the letter from EPA came up (Apr.8,2019 ) Lots of information and what you year and engine were supposed to have.

For mine it came up based on year and the EPA build number

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

Ain't MH'ing FUN and you learn all sort of skills....but your POCKET BOOK stays FULL....TRUST ME ON THAT.... 

 

The DW says I'm like Scotty on Star Trek - always fixing something to keep us on mission. I always reply: "I'm giving you all I can Cap'n and I can't give ya no more"... LOL.

Thanks, Frank.

The ad states standard thread so assuming that means NPS.

Thank you everyone,  I found it.  Middle of the thorough bayon the roof.  Hidden by the central vacuum lines etc.  Had to crawl right in the bay. 

1997 Monico dynasty,   thirty miles into a 40-mile trip everything was fine, then decided to test cruise control, as soon as I switched it on and tried to set speed the speedometer pegged and started a crazy sporadic dance, and then do not shift light came on, and it shifted down while at speed . I turned off the cruise and slowed , pulled over put in Neutral, then took off again and got to speed 55 mph for a few miles, and then the do not shift light came on and it shifted down, and then the light would go off, I tried maintaining one speed thinking it was rpm sensitive but it would downshift every few miles, the speedo would dance whenever the do not shift light came on.   "W.T. heck"?

I am not sure if the cruise had anything to do with it, it may have been a coincidence, I pressed the arrows on the shift control and it flashed ol or 01 and 50  oi then 50 repeating,

I am going to do a tranny service on it before the next test drive.   COULD IT BE GREMLINS?

got more diagnostic codes - d1 - 35 -00  its a power interuption   

the ol - 50 code means engine speed to low .

Will the fuel door close, it shows it being 3.25” overall? 
It would have to be NPS 

I talked to Barry there about oil bath and said it was his opinion generally to keep the greased bearings unless you use it frequently. If you don’t then you should move it once in a while so the oil can lubricate the top half of bearings. Sitting for long intervals the top half has drained down to nothing.?

This is a widely accepted reasoning but consider that tag coaches already have oil baths and along with drive axles use synthetic oils and I have not heard of problems yet.

9 hours ago, jacwjames said:

The condensation from the AC falls into a pan that diverts the water to either side of the roof gasket.  If any amount of dead bugs or stuff gets in the drain holes the pan won't drain and condensation could make its way into the coach.  If it gets into the duct work it could travel through the duct and drain at the next hole/opening.  My overhead lights are right under the duct. there may be a hole up there allowing the condensation to drain into the light. 

When I replace my AC's in 2021 I inspected my duct work with a remote camera, I found a large mouse hole right above one of the light.  I was able to fix it by removing the light and working through a hole in the plywood above the light. 

Interesting that rvtravel.com daily email newsletter today had an article on water dripping from air conditioners. But they didn’t discuss the moisture traveling away from the units. Your suggestion is worth checking out. Thanks.

8 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

This is a widely accepted reasoning but consider that tag coaches already have oil baths and along with drive axles use synthetic oils and I have not heard of problems yet.

That’s a good argument for sure. 

Wonder how often people get there greased hub bearings repacked, the maintenance schedule recommends 30K miles or Annually, ya that ain't gonna happen.

So my reasoning was that there was no way I would be able to repack the bearings "easily", didn't have a good place to do it at the time, didn't have the right tools etc.  Plus I know you have to be careful when reinstalling the hub to make sure you don't damage the seals and the hub being pretty heavy it would be tricky. 

So to get the hubs converted to oil bath wasn't much more the getting a repack so that's what I did.  Now I just have to pop the half moons and do a visual check on the oil level >>>> easy peesy. 

AND I know that a lot of the rigs did have oil bath front hubs.  Don't hear of many problems. 

50 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

Wonder how often people get there greased hub bearings repacked, the maintenance schedule recommends 30K miles or Annually, ya that ain't gonna happen.

So my reasoning was that there was no way I would be able to repack the bearings "easily", didn't have a good place to do it at the time, didn't have the right tools etc.  Plus I know you have to be careful when reinstalling the hub to make sure you don't damage the seals and the hub being pretty heavy it would be tricky. 

So to get the hubs converted to oil bath wasn't much more the getting a repack so that's what I did.  Now I just have to pop the half moons and do a visual check on the oil level >>>> easy peesy. 

AND I know that a lot of the rigs did have oil bath front hubs.  Don't hear of many problems. 

I like that reasoning and would agree with that Jim. I called down there to get a quote to see if what I was told here locally seemed in line and that’s how the conversation came up. 

1 hour ago, tmw188 said:

Will the fuel door close, it shows it being 3.25” overall? 
It would have to be NPS 

I will order one and find out if it is to big or not.

Free returns so no loss if it doesn't fit.

1 hour ago, jacwjames said:

Wonder how often people get there greased hub bearings repacked, the maintenance schedule recommends 30K miles or Annually, ya that ain't gonna happen.

So my reasoning was that there was no way I would be able to repack the bearings "easily", didn't have a good place to do it at the time, didn't have the right tools etc.  Plus I know you have to be careful when reinstalling the hub to make sure you don't damage the seals and the hub being pretty heavy it would be tricky. 

So to get the hubs converted to oil bath wasn't much more the getting a repack so that's what I did.  Now I just have to pop the half moons and do a visual check on the oil level >>>> easy peesy. 

AND I know that a lot of the rigs did have oil bath front hubs.  Don't hear of many problems. 

Generally the inner bearing race rides up on the inner bearing journal before the seal gets to the seal land to avoid that from happening. Years ago, before I ever had a wheel dolly to service wheel seals we used to use a sheet of tin with little weight oil on it, remove the axle nuts, use a hydraulic jack to lift the axle just enough and slide the wheel, hub and brake drum all as one assembly (before outboard brake drums were common) off the end of the axle to service, no real special tools needed, axle nut sockets are generally available at Napa and relatively cheap.
If someone ever finds themselves in a jam you can do this as long as it’s relatively flat, a piece of wood or thick plastic will work also. Just a FYI.

Sometimes you can simply air down the tire brake the bead and turn the tire 180* and see what happens, without any beads, jmo.

I also prefer to do things myself and did not invest in the special carrier but this configuration of tools I already have, works for me. I jack the axle just right to drive the hub away on a creeper. Easy.

Weep Hole Covers
Bill R 6 hours ago