Monacoers Daily News

Check out this tidy fitting I found for the top of the fuel filter housing!  It’s a 1/8-NPT extended street tee with an additional 45 deg port. Oil pressure sensor adapter from GlowShift gauges. 

In 2021 prior to going on a long trip I did a leak down test on my rig, it held air for over a week.  Good enough.

Later that year I left on another trip and stopped at a campground overnight, next morning ready to leave I turned the key on and the low air alarm came on.  So I started monitoring and my rig started to loose air at a faster rate but it had decent pressure while driving.  Made to Big Bend National Park and had time to try and find the problem.  Took a spray bottle of soapy water and started spraying, every one of the four Pressure Protection Valves were leaking.  But since it seemed to be at an acceptable rate I continued onto my trip.  While I was visiting the Petrified Forest NP in AZ I stopped at the visitor center, 45 minutes later the air had dropped to almost 40 psi.  Decided to head  home to investigate. 

I replaced all the PPV's plus any other fitting that had the potential for failure.  Decided to replace most of the push to connect fittings.  I had one piece of tubing that had a sharp bend in it going into the PTC fitting, ended up replacing that fitting with a compression fitting and that fixed that small leak. 

My rig will now stay up for weeks, like Ivan I chased all the leaks until there were NONE.

On my 3rd time (2 weeks ago) asking I got 10 different pdf's from REV, they said it is all they have but going to wait another couple months and try for paint codes and plumbing diagram. Only things I am missing.

1 hour ago, Ivan K said:

Exactly right. A small leak will not be enough to close the shuttle valve and makes it hard to figure where that leak is, front vs rear. Since I couldn't detect any last obvious leaks with bubbles anymore anywhere, I isolated the two tanks.  It was a very small leak but i wanted to finish it off. Unplugged the 1/2" line to rear tank right at the shuttle valve an capped it. Put a short piece of line with a cap into the open valve port. Filled the tanks and watched the front tank lose pressure over time while rear was good. That let me focus on the front accessories that I kept similarly isolating until the culprit was found in a place I couldn't have accessed with sprayer previously. Good luck!

Ivan, I have capped the shuttle valve as you suggested and as you found, my leaks are in the front tank. At this point the soap bubble test is not identifying any leaks.

If I may ask what was the culprit you found?

Thanks

Mike

14 minutes ago, bmulvenna@hotmail.com said:

Ivan, I have capped the shuttle valve as you suggested and as you found, my leaks are in the front tank. At this point the soap bubble test is not identifying any leaks.

If I may ask what was the culprit you found?

Thanks

Mike

 

Mike, my leak is from the air operated step cover cylinder when retracted. Sometimes I can hear the leak and if I close it again it goes quiet. Very slow leak but one day I will pull the cylinder out and fix it.

13 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

Mike, my leak is from the air operated step cover cylinder when retracted. Sometimes I can hear the leak and if I close it again it goes quiet. Very slow leak but one day I will pull the cylinder out and fix it.

Thank you

I bought a bucket of beads and had them installed with new tires last Fall.  So far they're doing great.  They'll last me a lifetime or 3 sets of tires (whichever comes first).  Different size tires call for different weights (of beads), so maybe too much of a good thing isn't a good thing . . . . including Centramatics + beads. 

I have filtered cores in my valve stems after the previous owner installed the smaller beads that continued to jam open the cores.  It was very difficult checking tire pressures as I would have to remove the TPMS sensor, remove the core, let the clogging bead blow out (and I can still see), then re-install the core. 

- bob

On 7/4/2024 at 9:19 AM, jacwjames said:

The condensation from the AC falls into a pan that diverts the water to either side of the roof gasket.  If any amount of dead bugs or stuff gets in the drain holes the pan won't drain and condensation could make its way into the coach.  If it gets into the duct work it could travel through the duct and drain at the next hole/opening.  My overhead lights are right under the duct. there may be a hole up there allowing the condensation to drain into the light. 

When I replace my AC's in 2021 I inspected my duct work with a remote camera, I found a large mouse hole right above one of the light.  I was able to fix it by removing the light and working through a hole in the plywood above the light. 

Mine are that way too. The condensate was overflowing the pan into the return opening under certain conditions. I noticed that the holes in the pan were too small and not quite in the right spot (unless the coach is 100% perfectly level) so I drilled 2 more larger holes on each side of the pan to let the condensate water run out - problem solved. 

I took care not to let the bit grab and puncture the metal roof. I also level up then tilt just a touch to the driver side so that the runoff goes away from the party side. YMMV.

I’m surprised the shop didn’t try to sell you a new one. Around here there are a few shops that would just build a new one if they couldn’t match it with something off the self and it would be a whole lot less than HWH’s price. 

On my front fire wall there is a black plastic cover over the brake treadle valve.  There are several air connections there.  You might pull the cover and check.  I think @Vanwill52 had a leak at the treadle valve, the hoses going into the were coming in at an angle and the PTC fitting was leaking.

11 minutes ago, Craggar said:

I’m surprised the shop didn’t try to sell you a new one. Around here there are a few shops that would just build a new one if they couldn’t match it with something off the self and it would be a whole lot less than HWH’s price. 

Last time I took a end gland off the cylinder on my tractor to a hydraulic shop to have them make one it was 2X what I could buy a new one for. 

Machining something from shop takes time and the hourly rates make it uneconomic to compete if you can still buy from other sources. 

But you never know unless you ask. 

1 minute ago, jacwjames said:

Last time I took a end gland off the cylinder on my tractor to a hydraulic shop to have them make one it was 2X what I could buy a new one for. 

Machining something from shop takes time and the hourly rates make it uneconomic to compete if you can still buy from other sources. 

But you never know unless you ask. 

Yes it's funny how it works sometimes, to have a new jack built here it was 1/2 the cost of what HWH quoted me but we do have a lot of hyd. shops around here so competition is pretty high too I guess.

Mike, I should have mentioned that my leak stops at 60 psi so I knew it is one of the accessories past PPV, like the horns, vacuum generator, step cover, door seal and whatever else you might have there, I think even the tire inflation hookup might be on PPV.

The good part is that this cylinder is really easy to take apart to check the damage. Not much torque on the gland since it uses a boss type oring.  I would think that if any metal part is worn, it would have to be leaking really bad first, for many actuations.

So to update the issue I’m having with this cylinder. I was told by the hydraulic shop that the issue is in the aluminum block pictures attached. The cylinder its self has new seals and has been honed and cleaned. The cylinder won’t extend out or retract in. They tell me the issue is inside that aluminum block. Anyone else had same issue?

FASS Installation Question
tmw188 13 hours ago