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Here's what the Monacoers have been talking about:
 

Index


Both air tanks lose air together
bmulvenna@hotmail.com
New (To Us) 2016 Diplomat 43DF - Round 2
Chuck-Kathy_Orlando
Garmin versus 'Other' GPS system(s)
Chuck-Kathy_Orlando
Garmin versus 'Other' GPS system(s)
BradHend
Garmin versus 'Other' GPS system(s)
Chuck-Kathy_Orlando
Garmin versus 'Other' GPS system(s)
jacwjames
Garmin versus 'Other' GPS system(s)
1nolaguy
Garmin versus 'Other' GPS system(s)
Chuck-Kathy_Orlando
Where to place side cameras?
Dr4Film
Garmin versus 'Other' GPS system(s)
1nolaguy
Garmin versus 'Other' GPS system(s)
Tom Cherry
2000 Dynasty Framing Photo
Jim Pratten
Where to place side cameras?
Keith H.
2000 Dynasty Framing Photo
Rikadoo
Where to place side cameras?
Dr4Film
White-Rogers 586-105111
Jeff H
2000 Dynasty Framing Photo
Dr4Film
Where to place side cameras?
Ivan K
Where to place side cameras?
96 EVO
Garmin versus 'Other' GPS system(s)
Chuck-Kathy_Orlando
White-Rogers 586-105111
Tom Cherry
Where to place side cameras?
Tom Cherry
Slide cylinder replacement
Paul J A
Where to place side cameras?
96 EVO
Garmin versus 'Other' GPS system(s)
Cajunboy1959
Driver’s side side switch panel
Keith H.
FASS Installation Question
dl_racing427
Where to place side cameras?
Tom Cherry
FASS Installation Question
wamcneil
Where to place side cameras?
96 EVO
White-Rogers 586-105111
Jeff H
2000 Dynasty Framing Photo
tmw188
Garmin versus 'Other' GPS system(s)
Chuck-Kathy_Orlando
Upgrade/consolidate audio/tv/home theater
Chuck-Kathy_Orlando
Water pump switch. 2008 Diplomat
ScottB
Water pump switch. 2008 Diplomat
Tom Cherry
2000 Dynasty Framing Photo
Frank McElroy

Discussions


Both air tanks lose air together
bmulvenna@hotmail.com
14 hours ago, Ivan K said:

Mike, I should have mentioned that my leak stops at 60 psi so I knew it is one of the accessories past PPV, like the horns, vacuum generator, step cover, door seal and whatever else you might have there, I think even the tire inflation hookup might be on PPV.

Good point. Thanks


New (To Us) 2016 Diplomat 43DF - Round 2
Chuck-Kathy_Orlando
On 7/2/2024 at 9:42 PM, Chuck-Kathy_Orlando said:

Thanks for the nice words!  Our issue at the moment is they (the dealer) is working to get the refrigerator working.  I suspect that when they replaced the inverter, they might have burned out a relay or switch.  However, we'll see.

Our plan for a shakedown trip this weekend is looking 'shakey' at the moment.  Hopefully, we'll gt some good news tomorrow!

So, unfortunately the refrigerator parts won't be in for about a week, or so.  The shakedown trip got canceled!  The real aggravation is that they are claiming against the extended warranty that I bought rather than owning up to their error and fixing it on their account.   I mean the entire job with parts and labor is about $700.

I suspect. that they have had to make some major replacements (tires, inverter, 6 house batteries, 2 chassis batteries, and defog the drivers window) that they may have had a good chuck of their profit whacked.

Oh well, once we get this back sometime next week (I hope), we'll be done with them and I'll find some good mobile techs in our area, Central Florida, that I can rely on to fix any issues that arise from here on out.


Garmin versus 'Other' GPS system(s)
Chuck-Kathy_Orlando

Hey all - Now that we have going the 'big diesel pusher group', we are planning to make more trips outside of Florida and the surrounding states.  In plenty of YouTube videos and chatting with other RV'er's, I've seen lot's of folks raving about the Garmin RV dedicated GPS systems versus using the freebie and public travel apps.

Specifically, I was looking at the Garmin RV 895, Garmin RV 795, and the Garmin RV 1095.  While it seems as if the major difference is screen size, along with a couple of other small differences, I'm not concerned with the cost, but know that sometimes more expensive isn't always 'more better'!

I would love to get any thoughts and opinions from users of these models, or previous versions, if you can elaborate.  We know that there will be times that we travel on non-interstate of US highways (Canada included) where I'm sure this will come in handy and potentially keep us out of trouble!

Thanks in advance for your time and thoughts! - Chuck and Kathy


2004 Windsor - Changing hydraulic fluid and discovered this🤔
Superpro14

Pudy Camper could you supply the make and part number for the 3 filters, or any one else, Thanks


Garmin versus 'Other' GPS system(s)
BradHend

I have the Garmin 890 in our rig.  It’s nice in the fact that it accounts for the larger rigs and tries to find the best route to accommodate it but I still feel like the guidance is from the 2000s.  I much prefer Apple Maps and the more real natural sounding voice.  I also tend to like Apple Maps layout much better.  
The Garmin did have speed alerts which were helpful if not paying attention to changing speed limits.  
I was actually going to replace my OEM dash radio/cd player with one of those nice Apple Airplay ones until I realized my dash radio is what they call a ‘Din and a half’ or 1.5 din which are basically non existent in the aftermarket world now.  Contemplated cutting it all out and fitting in a double din unit, but there isn’t enough room between the switches and the dash air controls.  🤷‍♂️.  I’ll find a solution yet. 


2004 Windsor - Changing hydraulic fluid and discovered this🤔
Tom Cherry
8 minutes ago, Superpro14 said:

Pudy Camper could you supply the make and part number for the 3 filters, or any one else, Thanks

I apologize for the format of the following text.  This is a Cut and Paste from our Parts List.  There is also a Fleetguard number for it.  Don't have it...but you can use the rest of the numbers and do a CROSSREFERENCE and get them.  BE AWARE....there are TWO DIFFERENT CANNISTERS or RESERVOIRS.  The SINGLE and the TRIPLE.  The filters ARE DIFFERENT.  The SINGLE is as follows.  This is from my own personal file. There is USUALLY a steel stamp on the side of the Nelson cannister.  One is the Part Number and the other is the FILTER.  BUT if you notice....  My original filter was stamped as 83804.  BUT, Fleetguard bombed on that.  Finally found that there was, in the Fleetguard system the same number...but the added the "E".  The Cummins dealer had NO crossreference...until I found the "E".  BINGO....they worked.

Hope this helps.

@Frank McElroy

I THOUGHT that I had added the single filter information when I curated the Parts List.  It may be in there, but my FIND search (83804) only found it in the 08-09 Maintenance section.  Look at the text for the Nelson.  I think there needs to be a note for the SINGLE filter stack added to match the 3 stack design...

Thanks...

Nelson Fleetguard 83804E Nelson 83804 Stamped - FG 91417
    LF637    

Supercedes 83804E

 

HERE IS THE THREE STACK INFORMATION....from the PARTS LIST....

The main filters for the Dynasty and Windsor and older Exec and Sigs is the Nelson 84101b filter
The reservoir uses three of them.  Donaldson P550698 appears to be a direct sub for the Nelson filter.
 
If you have the round hydraulic reservoir by the engine access door that is 21 inches tall,
the hydraulic filters are Nelson 84101b.  There are three of them in the canister - stacked.
Some Diplomats use Nelson 83213d  or NAPA 1487 or  Donaldson P55487 or Wix 51487

Garmin versus 'Other' GPS system(s)
Chuck-Kathy_Orlando
1 minute ago, BradHend said:

I have the Garmin 890 in our rig.  It’s nice in the fact that it accounts for the larger rigs and tries to find the best route to accommodate it but I still feel like the guidance is from the 2000s.  I much prefer Apple Maps and the more real natural sounding voice.  I also tend to like Apple Maps layout much better.  
The Garmin did have speed alerts which were helpful if not paying attention to changing speed limits.  
I was actually going to replace my OEM dash radio/cd player with one of those nice Apple Airplay ones until I realized my dash radio is what they call a ‘Din and a half’ or 1.5 din which are basically non existent in the aftermarket world now.  Contemplated cutting it all out and fitting in a double din unit, but there isn’t enough room between the switches and the dash air controls.  🤷‍♂️.  I’ll find a solution yet. 

Thanks for your input!  As we have a 2016 Diplomat 43DF, I'm thinking that I would like to see about changing out the head unit for one that includes Apple CarPlay.  We are ALL INTO Apple and, like you, I much prefer the Apple Maps app versus Google or most other's for that matter.  

I had seen in other forums that the Garmin was one of the top GPS units that many RV'er's use.  Since we bought our original 2022 Thor Windsport 34J (gas unit), I only used either Apple Maps or Google maps.  They worked well, but for the one year that we owned it, we almost always stayed on interstates or US Highways, so we really didn't have an issue (Florida and Georgia).

Since we don't have our rig yet as it is in the shop for a reefer fix (it spent one night at home, then back to the shop), I really haven't had much time to get into the in-dash unit that is there, but I think that there is an Sirius XM satellite radio, so that's a good start!  I will say that I suspect that I will miss the unit that was in the previous unit since it was an Axtera unit and was very convenient unit to use.


Houghton RecPro AC Conversion From Dometic
Tom Cherry
8 hours ago, Brad Loehr said:

Yes you can drop in a Houghton - Recpro and have it run independently from the Dometic thermostat.  That is the benefit of this AC unit as the thermostat and controls are all internal and it has a simple remote to operate.

I prefer to not run my cold AC air through my H ducting.  I rather have the AC blow straight down.  The reason being is it has less resistance to air flow going straight down and out and I dont have to cool the entire roof off before I get all the AC cold air through the vents.

No your furnace will not operate properly.   Read all the information in this post and the attached documents on the reasons why.

Brad is correct.  The FURNACE (Atwood or Aquahot) Function is the most "Mystical and Misunderstood" issue when folks read about how EASY it is and how WONDERFUL it is.

The Dometic Controller for the entire HVAC unit (Penguin or Penguin II) does several things.  It also has a pair of wires (called Blue....often erronously as Monaco ran plain old white #12 stranded). They ran from the Controller (outside on a 15K and in the plenum of a 13.5K).  to each furnace or in the Aquahot, there were a pair for every zone that the Aquahot supplied.  THREE zones....three set of wires.

The RecPro does NOT have any such controller.  It works strictly from the Thermostat (Maybe they have added a remote....don't know) in the HVAC UNIT.  There is NO PROVISION (and we have asked MANY TIMES, or I have....that a FURNACE option or HEAT option be added)....  but that would ONLY be for the Dometic MPX (4 or 5 or 10 Button Thermostats....OR the Microair equivalent).

SO...it is not a complete PLUG and PLAY.  An additional Thermostat for each zone will be required.... Folk have been creative in getting the HARD WIRED (2 lines) to the Thermostat (on a wall or under a cabinet) and back to the furnace(s) of the Aquahot.

MAYBE there is a electronic Thermostat...similar to the "Home Automation" devices that will have a Wireless (or BT) wall mounted thermostat.  All that would be needed would be to have a REMOTE OPERATING DEVICE that could be put next to the Furnace(s) or Aquahot. They would be paired or maybe have ONE remote that got coded signals from each thermostat.  BUT, there has to be an individual OUTPUT or Contacts as in THREE SEPARATE Relays...one for EACH ZONE.

 


Garmin versus 'Other' GPS system(s)
tmw188

I have an older 660 model, not as large which is ok for me. Larger is heavier and may be a problem keeping it mounted depending what method you use. Voice command is nice although sometimes you have to repeat yourself if you don’t choose the vocabulary it knows. Lane Assist is vary valuable. It will take you awhile to learn ALL the options it has on the map screen. Verify your route, the logic on these isn’t perfect. You can re shape routes and such. Overall I like the Garmin and as you said not a lot of differences between them. 


Garmin versus 'Other' GPS system(s)
JohnC3

I have the 795. I mount it on a sandbag mount sitting towards the driver's mirror. I find this unit fine to read without glasses. If it were the 0 inch unit, where I have it it I think it would be too large and obstruct the view. My thought is that the size is dependant on where/how it is mounted. You might get one and try it out (or make a standin out of cardboard and return it if it seems too small or large. Be aware you sometimes need to touch the screen ( when you hit a bump, sometimes a bump you hardly notice and it thinks you've had an accident, mine seems a little sensitive at times,, other times it's not) so a larger screen mounted farther away might be problematic if mounted beyond arm length from your seated position.

In using it full time for 3 years to 49 states I have to say I wouldn't drive without it, but on occasion the directions are wrong (route you down a dirt farm road or fire road for no real reason. Mine seems to sometimes wants to bring me in the wrong entrance at truck stops (just occasionally) and id not a problem if you know to not follow it blindly.

I wanted to mount a front camera (the 795 is compatable with this) but found the camera angle was not good enough, if I mounted it inside the cab, the reflection of the windshield blocked seeing outside. I might mount it below the windscreen, but that just seemed too clunky looking.

Good luck.


Garmin versus 'Other' GPS system(s)
jacwjames

I have a Garmin 760, I like some of the features but I've learned to check the route after you put in your destination.  It has sent me on wild goose chases several times.  We were traveling south from St Louis and all seemed good but we started to head in a direction that didn't seem right.  We we stopped and looked at the route, it had me headed to a completely different city.  So I put in the destination again and it did the same thing.  So you have to be careful.

Before a long trip every year I up date the Garmin since it is a LTM unit.  Last year I updated at home using a better wifi connection at home.  When I was on the road I found the NONE of the POI's had updated, in fact I had none at all.  The map seemed to update but not the POI's.   Had a similar issue with a backup Garmin trucker GPS that I had.  So I had to take the time the first night to update the GPS's. 

I was also disappointed in 2021 when I had two major road construction projects with detours were not accurate.  Ended up have to route through a low branch tree lined residential area, only saving grace was that it was obvious that the large commercial trucks had to do the same thing as most of the low branches were spewed all over the place.  Some truckers just parked until they could find a decent way out.  I kept forging ahead with a couple trucks following me until I found an access back onto the highway.

The last issue I've had is that the Garmin is not as accurate as to the distances before you turn.  Last year I  was a 2 lane hwy and coming to an intersection that I was suppose to turn at and the GPS verbal turn distance was way off, I ended up missing the turn and had to do about a 5 mile drive before I found a good place to turn around.  Wheat I've since done is start using my Iphone maps as a backup, it has better voice commands and is way more accurate.  So I will use both when I'm in an area that might cause a problem with Garmin. 


Garmin versus 'Other' GPS system(s)
1nolaguy

We have a Garmin 890 in our 40 ft DP. I really do not use it anymore for a variety of reasons. I have owned a number of Garmin GPS units dating back to the early 2000s. While the 890 is larger and accounts for our size and weight I find the maps and software often outdated and slower than Google Maps. For example the Garmin, with newly updated maps just days before a trip to San Antonio, TX, Took us to roads that no longer existed and did not show roads that were several years old. It usually gives directions verbally about 4-6 seconds behind google, which does not sound like much but when you are traveling down the interstate at 65 mph driving a 32k pound 40 ft beast that can add to tension. Lastly I find the POI files rather limited and poor, even RV parks. Unless you anter a location exactly as it is in their system the location will not appear. As a result I often find I have to look up the actual street address on my phone and key that in instead of using the name. Lastly, the device must be in the mounting device with power inorder to program it. If "works" on battery power but not for plotting in a route with multiple stops. This, for me, made it such a PIA to use that I stopped using it to plan trips.

Now I use google maps in conjunction with RV Trip Wizzard to plan trips and Google maps on my phone for actual turn by turn routing. Google is not without its limitations and problems but is, in my openion more user friendly and in conjunction with Trip wizzard makes planning and actual opperation much easier.


Garmin versus 'Other' GPS system(s)
Chuck-Kathy_Orlando
14 minutes ago, JohnC3 said:

I have the 795. I mount it on a sandbag mount sitting towards the driver's mirror. I find this unit fine to read without glasses. If it were the 0 inch unit, where I have it it I think it would be too large and obstruct the view. My thought is that the size is dependant on where/how it is mounted. You might get one and try it out (or make a standin out of cardboard and return it if it seems too small or large. Be aware you sometimes need to touch the screen ( when you hit a bump, sometimes a bump you hardly notice and it thinks you've had an accident, mine seems a little sensitive at times,, other times it's not) so a larger screen mounted farther away might be problematic if mounted beyond arm length from your seated position.

In using it full time for 3 years to 49 states I have to say I wouldn't drive without it, but on occasion the directions are wrong (route you down a dirt farm road or fire road for no real reason. Mine seems to sometimes wants to bring me in the wrong entrance at truck stops (just occasionally) and id not a problem if you know to not follow it blindly.

I wanted to mount a front camera (the 795 is compatable with this) but found the camera angle was not good enough, if I mounted it inside the cab, the reflection of the windshield blocked seeing outside. I might mount it below the windscreen, but that just seemed too clunky looking.

Good luck.

Wow, great review.  Thanks so much for taking the time to give me your input.

7 minutes ago, 1nolaguy said:

We have a Garmin 890 in our 40 ft DP. I really do not use it anymore for a variety of reasons. I have owned a number of Garmin GPS units dating back to the early 2000s. While the 890 is larger and accounts for our size and weight I find the maps and software often outdated and slower than Google Maps. For example the Garmin, with newly updated maps just days before a trip to San Antonio, TX, Took us to roads that no longer existed and did not show roads that were several years old. It usually gives directions verbally about 4-6 seconds behind google, which does not sound like much but when you are traveling down the interstate at 65 mph driving a 32k pound 40 ft beast that can add to tension. Lastly I find the POI files rather limited and poor, even RV parks. Unless you anter a location exactly as it is in their system the location will not appear. As a result I often find I have to look up the actual street address on my phone and key that in instead of using the name. Lastly, the device must be in the mounting device with power inorder to program it. If "works" on battery power but not for plotting in a route with multiple stops. This, for me, made it such a PIA to use that I stopped using it to plan trips.

Now I use google maps in conjunction with RV Trip Wizzard to plan trips and Google maps on my phone for actual turn by turn routing. Google is not without its limitations and problems but is, in my openion more user friendly and in conjunction with Trip wizzard makes planning and actual opperation much easier.

Thanks so much!  As I just replied to @jacwjames above, I really appreciate your well thought out reply and review.

You all are really great and helpful to a true big DP newbie, and an RV in general newbie only starting our RV life just over a year ago.


Garmin versus 'Other' GPS system(s)
Dr4Film

I purchased the first Garmin RV GPS when they introduced the RV760-LMT back in 2012. Had it for many years and sold it 2 years ago after I had purchased a used Garmin RV-890.

I like the new RV GPS platform which is based on an IPAD and apps versus the old type which is a Garmin proprietary format.


Where to place side cameras?
Dr4Film

Unless you intend on hooking them up to a recording DVR and use them like a dash cam for security then in my opinion they are a waste of money. When driving I prefer using the mirrors versus looking at a monitor which takes your eyes OFF of the road ahead of you. Using the triple headed mirrors set correctly a quick glance or eye movement is all you need.


Garmin versus 'Other' GPS system(s)
1nolaguy

Chuck and Kathy, Welcome to the new life of DP travel. As to GPS devices everyone's experience level is different. I first used GPS technology about 30 years ago when GPS units were mounted in the trunk and maps were on CDs. GPS technology has progressed greatly over the subsequent years have evolved greatly. In the early 2000s through about 2015, when google maps first came out it was very frustrating and Garmin was my gps of choice, having used multiple brands and models. I use to spend much of my working life driving all across North America as well as over seas, so a lot of regular use in a wide variety of locations. It is my opening that in the last decade Garmin has focused more on the devices physical attributed like size and 3D imaging and less on making sure there data is up to date or that their OS is properly fast enough. Since you need to pair your 890 or later version your cell phone for the driving condition portion to work it would seem to me that they would benefit if they could integrate their  Google Maps or Apple Maps for their map technology so their mapping was more accurate and timely.


Garmin versus 'Other' GPS system(s)
Tom Cherry

Have used the Garmins since the mid 90.  Had a Hand Held one.  Made an adapter cord that plugged it into my laptop and used the new defunct.  STREET Atlas.  That was great….and as accurate at the Hertz NeverLost systems.  My gold standard as I did a lot of business travel.

Then, I switched to the Garmin simple one…used it for 4 years, but still had my wife using the Street atlas as the laptop screen was bigger.

For a while, I had a Video Feed into the Backup Camera Monitor and used Google Maps.  Bought the Garmin 760…circa 2013.  Still use it in the MH as well as carry it when traveling in a car as there are places where a Cellphone ain’t got coverage.

I have soldered a loose connection and used JB Weld plastic to repair the strain relief on the cord.  I keep it updated.

It has a few of the quirks that folks discuss.  Once in the upper areas of Novia Scotia, driving down the equivalent of a nice secondary road, it routed me onto a side road….and we could see the map.  It looped us around that side road for maybe 2 miles….but knew it was coming back out on the same main road.  WHY?  Talk to the electronic Gods.

We also keep a cellular iPad up with Google Maps.  I prefer that to WAZE or Apple Maps.  Basically, they all route you, generally the same.  Recently there was a major tie up on a stretch of Interstate highway.  We had 3 versions going….Maps, WAZE & Google maps….three folks with iPhone’s.  NONE of them agreed on the alternate….

NOW, I DO use the freebie (used to be paid) Garmin App and connect the 760 to a cellular device and get real, as best it can be, traffic and weather.  The traffic is about the same as Google Maps….so the “Reds & Yellows & Greens” on the route is the same.  So Garmin’s app works.

As to the $65/YR RV Trip Wizard App.  It might be worth it.  BUT, when you are in the middle of Monument Valley or across the border in an isolated state park (Muley…something or other and that is where Lake Powell begins) and want to know whether to turn left or right…..a Satellite device is a lifesaver.

I have wandered around the “paths” in the grass between the main road through the Tetons and the river….several times in offroad mode in an SUV.  All the “paths” show up on a Garmin.  Some did, when you could get a cell signal….but I would have been wandering around forever without the Garmin.

There are many members with newer Garmins and they have, I think, not been as satisfied with the newer models as the original 760.

I’m keeping mine working and uodated….

BTW….we have traveled in all lower 48’s and 5 CDN provinces….and put over 80 K on a MH….since 2006…so, we have “used it a bit”….


2000 Dynasty Framing Photo
Jim Pratten

Found my old infrared camera today after it went “missing” for year and a half.  Had to play with it a bit yesterday evening. 

This photo is the side of our 2000 Dynasty York showing the warmer framing beneath the fiberglass skin.

 

IMG_0006.jpeg


Where to place side cameras?
Keith H.

I am going to use them for both security and as a secondary assist to my mirrors.  My next question is for my front dash cam. Should I place it high on my front windshield or down at the bottom?


2000 Dynasty Framing Photo
Rikadoo

I wish they had been around years ago as there are so many uses for them. Last week workin on a 1995 moho the customer complained there water pump wouldnt shut off a quick scan of circuits an fuses shows a old style glass buss fuse takin a beating fom loose fit an more amps that it should handle.IMG_5862.thumb.jpeg.3dfd25570cd38d925c412f380befdc15.jpeg


Where to place side cameras?
Dr4Film

My dash cam is located center bottom just above the line-of-sight of the windshield wiper arms.


White-Rogers 586-105111
Jeff H
On 7/4/2024 at 9:52 AM, Tom Cherry said:

Everything you need to do was written ORIGINALLY for the person that started this test.  You need to read and click on the links and understand how it works...

He did and then figured it out.  Here is a PDF of the IRD...

  On 7/3/2024 at 9:57 PM, Jeff H said:

All right had a moment to open the FRB and knowing what to look for (although if I had taken the time to read, it was right there in front of me) I found it right away.

It appears to be an IRD rather than a BIRD, which makes sense based on the chassis batteries never charging on shore power.  

This I assume will change some of the testing.

 

 

 

 

20240703_211459.jpg

20240703_211507.jpg

IRD TESTING...  PHASE 1....Use a needle or a paper clip or a SKINNY meter probe whatever to get a probe into the Connector.  ON THE PCB...

BLACK - Should be GROUND. Continuity or OHMS to a GOOD GROUND.

Yes

RED - Voltage to GROUND (Chassis bare spot or BLACK) ...when I say VOLTAGE that means....around 12 VDC,  Expect the SAME as the CHASSIS BANK...   

Yes, with ignition on 12.6

BLUE - Voltage to Ground....

Yes with the engine running on and off for the first couple minutes until stable 0-12

HOUSE BANK - Battery Voltage to GROUND

12.6

IRD TESTING...  Phase 2

GENNY RUNNING.... OR on 50 Amp....or 30 amp...just do NOT want a 20 amp hookup...

RED - Voltage

0

Blue - Voltage

0
 

IRD TESTING...  Phase 3

Genny STILL running or on AC power....  TURN ON THE KEY....do NOT START THE engine

Red - Voltage

13.0 - Voltage

0

Chassis Bank - Voltage (obviously to GROUND).

12.6

TROMBETTA TESTING....Phase 1 

BOTH BANKS OFF....same DEAL...NO GENNY...NO AC....NO ENGINE...  SOLAR covered or disconnected.

LEFT STUD - Voltage to GROUND

House 0

RIGHT STUD - Voltage to GROUND.

Chassis 0

NOW it gets tricky.  You NEED to be able to measure the VOLTAGE on the WHITE and PURPLE wires.  I don't know if you can get meter leads under there.  If you get two short "Alligator leads"...this is a Jumper with an alligator clip on each end.  Amazon has them....  IF NOT...then you are going to have to use TWO needles or straight pins and push them THROUGH the wires.  IF you can use a small wrench and get under the Trombetta and loosen the TWO terminals, then Slide a WIRE on to each.  MARK obviously...Need to TEST the VOLTAGE on White and PURPLE.  WHITE will be GROUND...so if you can JUST get a wire or clip on the PURPLE...that is needed.

Purple - Voltage to GROUND.

0

TROMBETTA TESTING....Phase 2 

Turn ON one BANK....then repeat the above....except NOT THE PURPLE.  All this is....IDENTIFYING if LEFT is HOUSE or CHASSIS.  

NOW...if you can see this in the cabling...and I can't....you need to know and MARK (piece of Duct Tape with just an H or C) the cables.

Purple - Voltage (to GROUND)

0

Identification of wires above (visual)

TROMBETTA TESTING....Phase 3

House (Stud) - Voltage...  AC or GENNY ON...to GROUND.  Inverter should be SHOWING CHARGE.  

Chassis (Stud) - Voltage... 

12.6

House Battery - Voltage

13.3

Chassis Battery - Voltage

12.6

Stud to STUD - Voltage

0.8

Purple - Voltage

0

TROMBETTA TESTING....Phase 4

OK....EXACTLY THE SAME AS ABOVE.....

EXCEPT...NO AC ON...or Genny of course...  ENGINE RUNNING...let it run for maybe 5 minutes...there is a DELAY for the Heaters in the Air Intake to calm down....

House (Stud) - Voltage...  AC or GENNY OFF. Inverter should NOT be SHOWING CHARGE.  

13.4

Chassis (Stud) - Voltage... 

 13.9

House Battery - Voltage

13.9

Chassis Battery - Voltage

13.4

Stud to STUD - Voltage

0.6

Purple - Voltage

12.1

It is a busy time for me....Dishwasher just died at home and we have a lot going on.  Sometimes I will pop back quickly...others not so.

UNTIL we have the above and UNTIL I can read and digest the voltages...just HANG TIGHT...

I WILL TELL YOU THIS... HERE is what I EXPECT on the FINAL TROMBETTA TESTING....ENGINE warms up for a few minutes...

No need to digest Tom. The IRD is working as advertised. I can hear the Trombetta click but the voltage on the 2 studs does not equalize.  I inadvertently left the dash radio on over night so it drew down the chassis battery making it easier to see the difference.

So The IRD

Sends 12VDC to the coil of the Trombetta when the engine is running and the voltage is over 13VDC; combining the batteries

Otherwise batteries are isolated.

  • Engine Off
  • Engine on with genny or shore (to avoid competing charging sources.

As a further test with both banks off I applied 12VDC to the coil of the Trombetta.  It clicked but there was no continuity on the big studs.  I turned on the house batterie(13.4VDC) and tested the voltage from the studs to ground.  House side 13.4, Chassis 0, 

So I need to replace the Trombetta.  Or go all out and get the Blue Sea.


2000 Dynasty Framing Photo
Dr4Film

That is a great tool to have if you plan to install an outside exhaust port for the microwave making sure you don't have a metal sidewall frame member in your way.

I took a photo of my sidewall frames when it was cool outside and the dew had settled on the fiberglass indicating where the frame members were located.


Where to place side cameras?
Ivan K

My 3-way dash cam is at the top windshield, mainly to record front and partial sides through the windows.


Where to place side cameras?
96 EVO

My side cam's are low on the front cap.

Decent position for checking blind spots before a lane change, but useless as an aid for parking, as, when you turn the steering, all you see is tires!


Garmin versus 'Other' GPS system(s)
Chuck-Kathy_Orlando
1 hour ago, Dr4Film said:

I purchased the first Garmin RV GPS when they introduced the RV760-LMT back in 2012. Had it for many years and sold it 2 years ago after I had purchased a used Garmin RV-890.

I like the new RV GPS platform which is based on an IPAD and apps versus the old type which is a Garmin proprietary format.

Hmmm.... Interesting thought.  I hadn't really considered an iPad with the Garmin app.  Will have to check that one out!


Garmin versus 'Other' GPS system(s)
Dr4Film
8 minutes ago, Chuck-Kathy_Orlando said:

Hmmm.... Interesting thought.  I hadn't really considered an iPad with the Garmin app.  Will have to check that one out!

Sorry if I didn't make my earlier post clearer, Garmin doesn't have apps that you can load onto your own IPAD. The newer Garmin GPS devices such as the RV890 I now use is a Garmin IPAD loaded with their proprietary apps.


White-Rogers 586-105111
Tom Cherry
13 minutes ago, Jeff H said:
  On 7/3/2024 at 9:57 PM, Jeff H said:

All right had a moment to open the FRB and knowing what to look for (although if I had taken the time to read, it was right there in front of me) I found it right away.

It appears to be an IRD rather than a BIRD, which makes sense based on the chassis batteries never charging on shore power.  

This I assume will change some of the testing.

 

 

 

 

20240703_211459.jpg

20240703_211507.jpg

IRD TESTING...  PHASE 1....Use a needle or a paper clip or a SKINNY meter probe whatever to get a probe into the Connector.  ON THE PCB...

BLACK - Should be GROUND. Continuity or OHMS to a GOOD GROUND.

Yes

RED - Voltage to GROUND (Chassis bare spot or BLACK) ...when I say VOLTAGE that means....around 12 VDC,  Expect the SAME as the CHASSIS BANK...   

Yes, with ignition on 12.6

BLUE - Voltage to Ground....

Yes with the engine running on and off for the first couple minutes until stable 0-12

HOUSE BANK - Battery Voltage to GROUND

12.6

IRD TESTING...  Phase 2

GENNY RUNNING.... OR on 50 Amp....or 30 amp...just do NOT want a 20 amp hookup...

RED - Voltage

0

Blue - Voltage

0
 

IRD TESTING...  Phase 3

Genny STILL running or on AC power....  TURN ON THE KEY....do NOT START THE engine

Red - Voltage

13.0 - Voltage

0

Chassis Bank - Voltage (obviously to GROUND).

12.6

TROMBETTA TESTING....Phase 1 

BOTH BANKS OFF....same DEAL...NO GENNY...NO AC....NO ENGINE...  SOLAR covered or disconnected.

LEFT STUD - Voltage to GROUND

House 0

RIGHT STUD - Voltage to GROUND.

Chassis 0

NOW it gets tricky.  You NEED to be able to measure the VOLTAGE on the WHITE and PURPLE wires.  I don't know if you can get meter leads under there.  If you get two short "Alligator leads"...this is a Jumper with an alligator clip on each end.  Amazon has them....  IF NOT...then you are going to have to use TWO needles or straight pins and push them THROUGH the wires.  IF you can use a small wrench and get under the Trombetta and loosen the TWO terminals, then Slide a WIRE on to each.  MARK obviously...Need to TEST the VOLTAGE on White and PURPLE.  WHITE will be GROUND...so if you can JUST get a wire or clip on the PURPLE...that is needed.

Purple - Voltage to GROUND.

0

TROMBETTA TESTING....Phase 2 

Turn ON one BANK....then repeat the above....except NOT THE PURPLE.  All this is....IDENTIFYING if LEFT is HOUSE or CHASSIS.  

NOW...if you can see this in the cabling...and I can't....you need to know and MARK (piece of Duct Tape with just an H or C) the cables.

Purple - Voltage (to GROUND)

0

Identification of wires above (visual)

TROMBETTA TESTING....Phase 3

House (Stud) - Voltage...  AC or GENNY ON...to GROUND.  Inverter should be SHOWING CHARGE.  

Chassis (Stud) - Voltage... 

12.6

House Battery - Voltage

13.3

Chassis Battery - Voltage

12.6

Stud to STUD - Voltage

0.8

Purple - Voltage

0

TROMBETTA TESTING....Phase 4

OK....EXACTLY THE SAME AS ABOVE.....

EXCEPT...NO AC ON...or Genny of course...  ENGINE RUNNING...let it run for maybe 5 minutes...there is a DELAY for the Heaters in the Air Intake to calm down....

House (Stud) - Voltage...  AC or GENNY OFF. Inverter should NOT be SHOWING CHARGE.  

13.4

Chassis (Stud) - Voltage... 

 13.9

House Battery - Voltage

13.9

Chassis Battery - Voltage

13.4

Stud to STUD - Voltage

0.6

Purple - Voltage

12.1

It is a busy time for me....Dishwasher just died at home and we have a lot going on.  Sometimes I will pop back quickly...others not so.

UNTIL we have the above and UNTIL I can read and digest the voltages...just HANG TIGHT...

I WILL TELL YOU THIS... HERE is what I EXPECT on the FINAL TROMBETTA TESTING....ENGINE warms up for a few minutes...

No need to digest Tom. The IRD is working as advertised. I can hear the Trombetta click but the voltage on the 2 studs does not equalize.  I inadvertently left the dash radio on over night so it drew down the chassis battery making it easier to see the difference.

So The IRD

Sends 12VDC to the coil of the Trombetta when the engine is running and the voltage is over 13VDC; combining the batteries

Otherwise batteries are isolated.

  • Engine Off
  • Engine on with genny or shore (to avoid competing charging sources.

As a further test with both banks off I applied 12VDC to the coil of the Trombetta.  It clicked but there was no continuity on the big studs.  I turned on the house batterie(13.4VDC) and tested the voltage from the studs to ground.  House side 13.4, Chassis 0, 

So I need to replace the Trombetta.  Or go all out and get the Blue Sea.

Well, FIRST of ALL.... THANKS for providing us data that CAN be reviewed....

Second... YOU NAILED IT.

The Trombetta, and I apologize for not remembering if you had a White Rodgers or Trombetta or BIG BOY, has a pitted or burned set of contacts. NOW FWIW....this was NEVER meant to be used with the Intellitec Big Boy.

NOW>>>> FWIW....and PLEASE forgive me for TEACHING..  That IRD is only a ONE WAY Charging System. MANY (we have another topic going) have replaced the board and installed a FULL BIRD (Intellitec Diesels) Module...so they have BiDirectional charging... which is the current system on all Monaco's and was phased in for various models.

The Diesel2 sends out a PULSED Voltage.  The INITIAL signal is 12 VDC to "Lock IN" the coil.  REMEMBER, this was DESIGNED for a Big Boy....but it has worked...even though it surprised several of us on a PURE 12 VDC Solenoid...like the T or the WR. SO, if you wanted FULL TIME BIRD (BiDirectional) Charging...then you would have to replace it...or if it DIED...

Installation is easy.  You DO NOT NEED the Genny signal.  That was an afterthought and Monaco has several different configurations.  SOME WITH and SOME WITHOUT the Genny terminal. All the later versions (at least 2008 in the Camelot) have NO GENNY WIRE...

SO, the way the Diesel 2 SHOULD work...  Either with the ENGINE running or the Genny ON...  An initial 12 VDC or CLUNK.  That holds it on.  THEN the Diesel2 is supposed to start PULSING the solenoid.  On the Big Boy, you can actually feel it PULSE....very faint...but it does.  If you measure the control (Coil) terminals...it should be at least 3 VDC.  The two links or topics that I provided...one in an 2002 Windsor, confirm that. I have measured it on my rig and a few others...and had countless members do the same.  IT IS A LOWER voltage..  IF the Voltage is NOT dropping to the 3.4 or maybe above up to 5 or 6 Volts range...then it is NOT operating as designed.

OK....the decision, to me...is this.  The White Rodgers equivalent was around $65 or so.  The Trombetta, for replacement, needs to be UPGRADED.  Folks order the "SILVER CONTACTS" model.  That is well documented and they last, supposedly, forever.  BUT, you still only have HOUSE being Charged while driving.  NOW, some use an AC charger for the Chassis when parked...but that needs to be the THREE PHASE or STAGE "Charger/Tender".... not some cheap charger as you will overcharge and boil the Chassis Batteries.

NOW...if you want to go FULL BIRD...then you would have to add this...It WOULD work with the Trombetta, I THINK...but you should call Trombetta and tell them it will be a REDUCED Voltage. We KNOW that It will work with the White Rodgers...so you could replace it with the White Rodgers and all would be well...just match the FLA or Current rating....  AGAIN.. $65 or so.

BUT, if you want to upgrade, and that is easy...you just cut the wires off the board and use them...You will NEED a HOUSE voltage wire to connect.  BUT, that is an additional $85 or so... Google Intellitec BIRD Diesel2 and follow the links.

Where to place side cameras?
Tom Cherry

36 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

My side cam's are low on the front cap.

Decent position for checking blind spots before a lane change, but useless as an aid for parking, as, when you turn the steering, all you see is tires!

TOTALLY FASCINATING.  Do you HAVE TWO SETS of Side Cameras?  In 2009, the Camelot/Scepter came with the CAMERA in the lower part of the Mirror....and NO SIDE ones....


Slide cylinder replacement
Paul J A

These folks are a great alternate source for HWH related issues.  Where to place side cameras?
96 EVO

14 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

TOTALLY FASCINATING.  Do you HAVE TWO SETS of Side Cameras?  In 2009, the Camelot/Scepter came with the CAMERA in the lower part of the Mirror....and NO SIDE ones....

No mirror cams.

 

2004 Windsor - Changing hydraulic fluid and discovered this🤔
Pudgy Camper

Yep Tom nailed it. My filters ended up being the 84101B and my gasket was 99955A. I ordered them from Moderngroup.com and everything shipped was about $75.


Garmin versus 'Other' GPS system(s)
Cajunboy1959

I purchased the Garmin RV 780 a year ago and it has been great over the last 6000 miles. I like it because my 34000 pound coach's weight, hieght and width are all in there. It will not let you down a road with a sub standard bridge such as a 10 ton weight limit nor height under the specs of my coach. See attached picture of where it works best for me.

Driver’s side side switch panel
Keith H.

Big THANKS to @IvanK for telling me about Custom Instrument Panels in Albemarle NC. 
Today, I received my new drivers side arm instrument panel. It looks GREAT!  
Lets just home I measured correctly!

IMG_3568.thumb.jpeg.27114b1867330935e8f2f4cd56b3ab4a.jpeg


FASS Installation Question
dl_racing427
22 hours ago, wamcneil said:

Check out this tidy fitting I found for the top of the fuel filter housing!  It’s a 1/8-NPT extended street tee with an additional 45 deg port. Oil pressure sensor adapter from GlowShift gauges. 

image.jpg

Do you have a link to a source, and/or a part number?


Where to place side cameras?
Tom Cherry
54 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

No mirror cams.

 

IMG_1296.JPG

The more our twins, one year difference in age….the less the look like they have the same DNA….BUT THE FACES are the same.

thanks for pointing that out.

I’m happy with my mirror cams and they meet all my needs.

FROM STRICTLY A “PREVENT DRIVER DISTRACTION” standpoint.  My mind can only process so much.  I know many people that have had trouble “adjusting” to having the rear camera in their car.  First there was side mirrors and those that towed learned how to use….and that was an improvement.

BUT, now the modern SUV has “tilting”, if selected mirrors.  They have a rear camera mirror.  I’m old school…I learned to drive with basically a woman’s compact mirror on the A pillar.  You turned your head. You used your interior mirror.  Some would open the door and peer out when backing.

I have had a variety of SUV’s….many on truck chassis.  Recently I was backing out of a wide driveway….with wide side rails.  Too wide to be in the camera or mirrors,

I finally looked in my rear view mirror and then turned my head to back.  The tilting mirrors are great….unless you are backing a trailer.

So…adding side cameras…..I DO NOT KNOW…

You have two mirrors.  Two convex mirrors. A backup camera….and can switch to either side camera by turning on a turn signal.   That’s enough….so don’t distract me with another monitor or split screen with side camera…


FASS Installation Question
wamcneil

Here you go! About the same price on Amazon. 
Where to place side cameras?
96 EVO

Like most Monaco built coaches, they may be twins, just not 'identical twins'!


White-Rogers 586-105111
Jeff H
1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

Well, FIRST of ALL.... THANKS for providing us data that CAN be reviewed....

Second... YOU NAILED IT.

The Trombetta, and I apologize for not remembering if you had a White Rodgers or Trombetta or BIG BOY, has a pitted or burned set of contacts. NOW FWIW....this was NEVER meant to be used with the Intellitec Big Boy.

NOW>>>> FWIW....and PLEASE forgive me for TEACHING..  That IRD is only a ONE WAY Charging System. MANY (we have another topic going) have replaced the board and installed a FULL BIRD (Intellitec Diesels) Module...so they have BiDirectional charging... which is the current system on all Monaco's and was phased in for various models.

The Diesel2 sends out a PULSED Voltage.  The INITIAL signal is 12 VDC to "Lock IN" the coil.  REMEMBER, this was DESIGNED for a Big Boy....but it has worked...even though it surprised several of us on a PURE 12 VDC Solenoid...like the T or the WR. SO, if you wanted FULL TIME BIRD (BiDirectional) Charging...then you would have to replace it...or if it DIED...

Installation is easy.  You DO NOT NEED the Genny signal.  That was an afterthought and Monaco has several different configurations.  SOME WITH and SOME WITHOUT the Genny terminal. All the later versions (at least 2008 in the Camelot) have NO GENNY WIRE...

SO, the way the Diesel 2 SHOULD work...  Either with the ENGINE running or the Genny ON...  An initial 12 VDC or CLUNK.  That holds it on.  THEN the Diesel2 is supposed to start PULSING the solenoid.  On the Big Boy, you can actually feel it PULSE....very faint...but it does.  If you measure the control (Coil) terminals...it should be at least 3 VDC.  The two links or topics that I provided...one in an 2002 Windsor, confirm that. I have measured it on my rig and a few others...and had countless members do the same.  IT IS A LOWER voltage..  IF the Voltage is NOT dropping to the 3.4 or maybe above up to 5 or 6 Volts range...then it is NOT operating as designed.

OK....the decision, to me...is this.  The White Rodgers equivalent was around $65 or so.  The Trombetta, for replacement, needs to be UPGRADED.  Folks order the "SILVER CONTACTS" model.  That is well documented and they last, supposedly, forever.  BUT, you still only have HOUSE being Charged while driving.  NOW, some use an AC charger for the Chassis when parked...but that needs to be the THREE PHASE or STAGE "Charger/Tender".... not some cheap charger as you will overcharge and boil the Chassis Batteries.

NOW...if you want to go FULL BIRD...then you would have to add this...It WOULD work with the Trombetta, I THINK...but you should call Trombetta and tell them it will be a REDUCED Voltage. We KNOW that It will work with the White Rodgers...so you could replace it with the White Rodgers and all would be well...just match the FLA or Current rating....  AGAIN.. $65 or so.

BUT, if you want to upgrade, and that is easy...you just cut the wires off the board and use them...You will NEED a HOUSE voltage wire to connect.  BUT, that is an additional $85 or so... Google Intellitec BIRD Diesel2 and follow the links.

2008 HR Imperial Valid Air Leveling front right corner leaks down
Just Jim

So finally climbed under the coach today to try and find my air leak.  Within minutes of turning the coach off it leans to the curb side.  Start it back up and it levels out.  I sprayed several things in the rear and it appears I see some bubbles, but nothing really glaring that would cause it to leak that quickly.  Posting a picture of what I've found so far.  Identification of these would be very helpful as I don't know what I'm looking at, however I can tell that the lines in the top left go to the brakes.

The lines running to the air bags are covered with plastic protective wrap like is on the electrical wires so I can't really spray and see them.  I sprayed the ping tank and don't see much in the way of leaks either.  It really seems like I should be able to hear an air leak as it happens fairly quickly, but all I hear is a sound that sounds like it settling about every 10-15 seconds.  Any suggestions?

2008 HR Imperial Valid Air Leveling front right corner leaks down
Frank McElroy

Try spraying down the whole large braided hoses going from the ping tank to the airbags on the front PS and the two PS air bags.

Also check the vent on the air valve assembly for the front axle.  It could be a leaking PS front valve causing air to be vented.


2000 Dynasty Framing Photo
tmw188
4 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

That is a great tool to have if you plan to install an outside exhaust port for the microwave making sure you don't have a metal sidewall frame member in your way.

I took a photo of my sidewall frames when it was cool outside and the dew had settled on the fiberglass indicating where the frame members were located.

I did that same thing however just got the driver side. 


Upgrade/consolidate audio/tv/home theater
Bill R

Recently did the same HTS upgrade and went with the SONY STR-DH590 5.2.    Great sound and capabilities.  One thing to check though is if your subwoofer is powered or not.  I realized after the upgrade that the OEM subwoofer was not powered.  So I had to purchase a new subwoofer.


Penguin II "Load Shed" wiring question
hex_nut

I am in the process of replacing one of the original Dometic Penguin Heat Pumps on my 2006 Monterey.  As I disconnected the wiring from the old unit, I found that the "Load Shed" (yellow wires) from the Penguin control board are connected to a 120 volt AC powered relay in the junction box.  It seems to only function to make or break continuity on the two yellow "Load Shed" wires.  I was confused by this.  My coach does not have any type of Load Shed system.  What is the purpose of this relay and does the purpose carry over to the new Penguin II that I will be installing.  I am hesitant to just hook up the two yellow wires to that relay without knowing their purpose.  Can someone out there that knows these systems better than I shed some light on things.  Thanks.

Richard   


Garmin versus 'Other' GPS system(s)
cbr046

For auto-routing I prefer Google, despite the lack of large vehicle warnings. 

I like seeing where I'm at and what roads / cities are around me.  The Garmin, and it doesn't seem to matter which one, lacks detail sometimes. 

GarminNoDetail.thumb.jpg.6e2ae6febea6804102a2ddd01edcf565.jpg

I'm on GA83 and crossing US23 with Flovilla to the North and heading into Forsyth.  That's I-75 on the left.  Pretty much worthless if you don't know where you are already.

Here's the same screenshot from Google Maps -

Screenshot(74).thumb.png.c09947aecb478914632214161bed8ed9.png

- bob


Garmin versus 'Other' GPS system(s)
Chuck-Kathy_Orlando
4 hours ago, Cajunboy1959 said:

I purchased the Garmin RV 780 a year ago and it has been great over the last 6000 miles. I like it because my 34000 pound coach's weight, hieght and width are all in there. It will not let you down a road with a sub standard bridge such as a 10 ton weight limit nor height under the specs of my coach. See attached picture of where it works best for me.

Screenshot_20240706_120327_Gallery.jpg

Screenshot_20240706_120053_Amazon Shopping.jpg

Very nice!   I like how you have it mounted.  By the way, what TPMS do you use?  The previous owner gave me his, but he admitted that her didn't like it and I was thinking about getting one that I liked.  Your's looks interesting, as I'm assuming that the lower screen is the TPMS.

35 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

For auto-routing I prefer Google, despite the lack of large vehicle warnings. 

I like seeing where I'm at and what roads / cities are around me.  The Garmin, and it doesn't seem to matter which one, lacks detail sometimes. 

GarminNoDetail.thumb.jpg.6e2ae6febea6804102a2ddd01edcf565.jpg

I'm on GA83 and crossing US23 with Flovilla to the North and heading into Forsyth.  That's I-75 on the left.  Pretty much worthless if you don't know where you are already.

Here's the same screenshot from Google Maps -

Screenshot(74).thumb.png.c09947aecb478914632214161bed8ed9.png

- bob

Yeah, there is a bid difference in the information given between Google Maps and the Garmin.   I see what you mean!


Penguin II "Load Shed" wiring question
vito.a

Monaco usually set up one A/C unit on the same circuit with the washer using a priority relay.  I'm guessing that's what you found.  

I hope you already know your new Penguin II A/C is not compatible with your old Dometic Comfort Control 5-button thermostat.   


Upgrade/consolidate audio/tv/home theater
Chuck-Kathy_Orlando

Hey all... While on this very specific topic.  I'm thinking of adding a satellite SiriusXM radio as an add on to the existing dash radio.  However, before I do so, I'm going to check, when we get the unit back from the dealer, to see if it doesn't have it already in the dash system.  We have a 2016 Diplomat 43DF that we had for one day at home before we had to take it back to the dealer to fix the refrigerator.  It's a Whirlpool residential that works (lights up and the fan blows) but it won't get cold and the freezer won't freeze.

Any suggestions for a add on unit if we need one?


Water pump switch. 2008 Diplomat
ScottB

Thanks to all for your support and assistance.  I believe I found the problem to the wiring in the hall panel.  I removed Intellitec control to reset the screen and while removing I noticed the red light in the hall water pump switch light up.  Once I checked all the connections, secure the them, including the wires to the switch, the light went out and has not come on since.   Hopefully that was where the ground issue was and if it reoccurs at least I’ll have a starting point.   
 
Thanks again!

Scott B


Water pump switch. 2008 Diplomat
Tom Cherry
17 minutes ago, ScottB said:

Thanks to all for your support and assistance.  I believe I found the problem to the wiring in the hall panel.  I removed Intellitec control to reset the screen and while removing I noticed the red light in the hall water pump switch light up.  Once I checked all the connections, secure the them, including the wires to the switch, the light went out and has not come on since.   Hopefully that was where the ground issue was and if it reoccurs at least I’ll have a starting point.   
 
Thanks again!

Scott B

GREAT…lets hope so.  It took me 5 years to finally “catch” my house disconnect switch in a position where it dropped half a volt….believe me….sometimes it does take time….


Penguin II "Load Shed" wiring question
Martinvz

On our coach we have a load shedding ems that is next to the 120V breakers, hidden behind the metal cover plate. The power delivery is controlled at that point. 
On the Penguin2, as I recall,  there are only the 120V power connector and 2 RG58(?) telephone connectors that connects to the rear a/c and the thermostat. The load shedding is not controlled in the a/c but is part of the coach 120V power network. When I installed the Penguin2 it went in without any additional cabling for the load shedding. 
Are you possibly seeing the yellow 120V cable and thinking it is for load shedding? 
A photo or 2 may help us


Penguin II "Load Shed" wiring question
Tom Cherry

Centramatic Balancers VS Tire Beads
96 EVO

On 6/29/2024 at 6:12 AM, Melvin said:

I've had both they are a waste of money. Find a tire dealer that dose "Road Force Balancing" They have machines that will balance the biggest RV tire out there . My Monaco ride like it's on glass. watch a few you tube videos on it. 

Gee, I hope your wrong, as I have a new pair of Balance Masters ready to go on.

Any chance you got a really bad tire? 

 


Centramatic Balancers VS Tire Beads
Dr4Film
1 hour ago, 96 EVO said:

Gee, I hope your wrong, as I have a new pair of Balance Masters ready to go on.

Any chance you got a really bad tire? 

 

You will never go wrong with a set of Balance Masters on your coach. Plus they never wear out and can transfer from one coach to another. Can't do that with Road Force Balancing no matter how good it may be.


Penguin II "Load Shed" wiring question
hex_nut

Tom

Appreciate the additional information.  I forgot to mention that the old unit was a single zone on a single 5 button thermostat.  The new Penguin II has the CCC2 control board and I will be installing the CCC2 10 button thermostat.  I am just puzzled by the strange relay in the junction box.  I cannot figure out what it could accomplish.  There must have been a reason for wiring it that way back in 2005.  Perhaps they just used standardized components in all coach assemblies regardless of whether they had a load shedding system or not.  This relay may not accomplish anything.

Richard 


2000 Dynasty Framing Photo
Frank McElroy
12 hours ago, Jim Pratten said:

Found my old infrared camera today after it went “missing” for year and a half.  Had to play with it a bit yesterday evening. 

This photo is the side of our 2000 Dynasty York showing the warmer framing beneath the fiberglass skin.

 

IMG_0006.jpeg

I use a similar IR camera attached to my cell phone to spot hot locations indicating poor connections/failed components on circuit boards or loose high current low voltage battery connections.  Actually a whole lot easier than measuring voltage drop to spot a poor high current / low voltage connections.



New Downloads


2006 Monaco Diplomat / Holiday Rambler Endeavor Plumbing Diagrams
2006 Monaco Diplomat / Holiday Rambler Endeavor Plumbing Diagrams
Scotty Hutto
A full set of hot, cold, and drain water plumbing diagrams specific to a 2006 Diplomat/Endeavor 40 DST (bath and a half).  Some portions may reflect other layouts.

2006 Monaco Diplomat Paint Codes
2006 Monaco Diplomat Paint Codes
Scotty Hutto
Complete paint code details for 2006 Diplomats - all color schemes.


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