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Index


NEED TPMS ADVICE - THANKS
cbr046
NEED TPMS ADVICE - THANKS
Chuck-Kathy_Orlando
NEED TPMS ADVICE - THANKS
Dr4Film
Diamond Shield or 3M?
Steve P
NEED TPMS ADVICE - THANKS
jacwjames
Washed and waxed
Pduggs
Washed and waxed
Brad 03 Windsor
Diamond Shield or 3M?
Brad 03 Windsor
Washed and waxed
Tom Wallis
Washed and waxed
Brad 03 Windsor
Washed and waxed
Pduggs
Washed and waxed
96 EVO
Diamond Shield or 3M?
Steve P
NEED TPMS ADVICE - THANKS
Tom Cherry
Garmin versus 'Other' GPS system(s)
Tom Cherry
2000 Dynasty Framing Photo
vito.a
Electrical nightmare
birdshill123
2000 Dynasty Framing Photo
Jim Pratten
Washed and waxed
Homebozy
Penguin II "Load Shed" wiring question
Tom Cherry
Electrical nightmare
Tom Cherry
Garmin versus 'Other' GPS system(s)
Chuck-Kathy_Orlando
Electrical nightmare
birdshill123

Discussions


Upgrade/consolidate audio/tv/home theater
dandick66
11 hours ago, Chuck-Kathy_Orlando said:

Hey all... While on this very specific topic.  I'm thinking of adding a satellite SiriusXM radio as an add on to the existing dash radio.  However, before I do so, I'm going to check, when we get the unit back from the dealer, to see if it doesn't have it already in the dash system.  We have a 2016 Diplomat 43DF that we had for one day at home before we had to take it back to the dealer to fix the refrigerator.  It's a Whirlpool residential that works (lights up and the fan blows) but it won't get cold and the freezer won't freeze.

Any suggestions for a add on unit if we need one?

More than likely, your existing radio has Sirius built in, or is “Sirius capable “, which means you have to buy an adapter that plugs into the Sirius antenna and then to the back of your radio.  Check the owners manual for the radio for clarification.


NEED TPMS ADVICE - THANKS
cbr046
21 hours ago, Chuck-Kathy_Orlando said:

Very nice!   I like how you have it mounted.  By the way, what TPMS do you use?  The previous owner gave me his, but he admitted that her didn't like it and I was thinking about getting one that I liked.  Your's looks interesting, as I'm assuming that the lower screen is the TPMS.

MODERATOR NOTE

Changing topic is mid posting is a violation of Site Rules.  In this case, the proper method would have been to do a SEARCH.  USE TPMS as the key word...then select Everywhere.  Select TOPICS.  Then search.

Then scroll or skim the results and read.  The particular brand MAY have already been discussed....IF NOT and the information below was pertinent, then CHOOSE the topic that is most appropriate or usually the one with the most recent post. Then post the comment there.  That reopens the discussion under the correct subject.

Doing the housekeeping to keep topics segregated requires a lot of offline work...by the the staff.

Thanks for understanding and not creating additional work.  Dave does NOT pay us DOUBLE TIME for "HOUSEKEEPING"...  LOL.

END OF EDIT

I highly recommend a TPMS.  It's a must have when a blown steer tire can be fatal, or a rear dually can destroy some undercarriage, a toad or go undetected until the other dually blows.

I had the TireMinder TM-77 and didn't like it but not willing to invest hundreds for another brand.  What I don't like is having to push a button to scroll through all the tires but it does monitor all tires continuously.  The biggest issue is with the sensors failing (misreads, false alarms, low psi, stops reading, inaccurate psi), and they're the bulk of the cost.  So expensive I bought the TM-88C on sale because it was cheaper than buying 4 more sensors.  It's basically the same monitor except color and a few added features.  The user interface is difficult and the manual is overwritten in so much detail it's confusing.  OTOH TireMinder customer service is VERY GOOD.  People here like the TST but it also only displays one tire at a time.  I ran across this review of TPMS systems but no idea how good the different systems are over time -

Garmin versus 'Other' GPS system(s)
Steve P

Buy an annual RV Life subscription and run it on an iPad, Android tablet, or phone of your choice (or all of them).  It serves multiple purposes.  And you can run it with all your other apps, like Open Roads for fuel, RV Parky and The Dyrt, AccuWeather, etc.  Download the maps state by state if you might not have a cell or wifi signal (GPS mapping function will still work).  You get bridge heights, etc.  Campground info, reviews, and much more.  All mapping software is at the mercy of bad data, so any of them may mis-route you once in a while.  RV Life has been great about correcting the two issues I reported (side road, impossible u-turn).  Don't through money away on Garmin... they lost their edge a while ago when competition heated up.  IMHO 😉 


NEED TPMS ADVICE - THANKS
Chuck-Kathy_Orlando
27 minutes ago, cbr046 said:

I highly recommend a TPMS.  It's a must have when a blown steer tire can be fatal, or a rear dually can destroy some undercarriage, a toad or go undetected until the other dually blows.

I had the TireMinder TM-77 and didn't like it but not willing to invest hundreds for another brand.  What I don't like is having to push a button to scroll through all the tires but it does monitor all tires continuously.  The biggest issue is with the sensors failing (misreads, false alarms, low psi, stops reading, inaccurate psi), and they're the bulk of the cost.  So expensive I bought the TM-88C on sale because it was cheaper than buying 4 more sensors.  It's basically the same monitor except color and a few added features.  The user interface is difficult and the manual is overwritten in so much detail it's confusing.  OTOH TireMinder customer service is VERY GOOD.  People here like the TST but it also only displays one tire at a time.  I ran across this review of TPMS systems but no idea how good the different systems are over time -

@Cajunboy1959 had mentioned in another post, he had good luck with the TST-507 with flow through sensors.   As you said, none are probably going to be perfect, but I'll have to accept that at least one is certainly better than not having one!

24 minutes ago, Steve P said:

Buy an annual RV Life subscription and run it on an iPad, Android tablet, or phone of your choice (or all of them).  It serves multiple purposes.  And you can run it with all your other apps, like Open Roads for fuel, RV Parky and The Dyrt, AccuWeather, etc.  Download the maps state by state if you might not have a cell ir wifi signal (GPS mapping function will still work).  You get bridge heights, etc.  Campground info, reviews, and much more.  All mapping software is at the mercy of bad data, so any of them may mis-route you once in a while.  RV Life has been great about correcting the two issues I reported (side roads, impossible u-turn).  Don't through money away on Garmin... they lost their edge a while ago when competition heated up.  IMHO 😉 

Funny you mention RV Life, it's one that I had considered some time back but didn't go down that path since at the time, we weren't really traveling outside of Florida and the surrounding states.   With our new rig, our plan is to travel out west and up north, so a subscription now might be more worth it, plus all the other features that it offers.


NEED TPMS ADVICE - THANKS
Dr4Film

Since the OP added TPMS to this thread I will chime in on the topic.

My first TPMS purchase was a Doran back in 2010 prior to traveling on the road Full-Time. I had 10 Cap sensors, 6 for the coach and 4 for the trailer I was towing. Bottom-line it was a piece of junk. I had lost multiple trailer tires due to the TPMS. Plus on my very last trip with it from Reno to Santa Clarita CA I had 5 of the 10 sensors not reporting properly. Sold the POS on eBay. That winter while in CA I went to the CA RV Show and saw a vendor displaying the Tire SafeGuard TPMS. Purchased it and it was GREAT! I ended up purchasing another one for my car and one for my motorcycle. The system worked as it should for the next 10 years until the company folded and went out of business. I was switching coaches and wanted a new TPMS so after lots of research and reading I decided on the Pressure Pro Pulse TPMS 12 Sensor System. The only downside is I had to run the add-on coaxial antenna extension to eliminate dropped signals.

I have used it now for the past two years on my Dynasty without having ANY issues whatsoever. I don't need to look at the monitor or scroll through the tires other than first thing before leaving for the days drive. While driving there is a green LED light that states the system is on and all is good based on the initial parameters when you first set up the system. If there was any problem, it immediately sounds an alarm and the screen flashes exactly what and where the problem is located.

Choose wisely as your life may depend on it!


Diamond Shield or 3M?
Steve P

It has taken me 33 hours over the past 2 weeks to remove the film, using a Harbor Freight steamer, and mostly, 60 of the orange plastic razor blades described in this thread.  The narrow Harbor Freight chisel was okay for a couple of tight spots, but a pain to keep square and sharp.  I started removing adhesive yesterday, using the same plastic razor blades and Rapid Remover -- 2 hrs to clean a 15" strip the height of the previously filmed area... so I estimate it may take 30 hours to clean adhesive.  It's cleaning up gradually, with no paint scratches so far.  I'm going to try 3M General Purpose Adhesive Cleaner tomorrow on the advice of a friend to see if it does a better job.  Fresh sharp razor blades do seem to be the key during removal of the film and the adhesive.  The adhesive remover does seem to dull the blades fairly quickly. 

NEED TPMS ADVICE - THANKS
jacwjames

X2 vote for a TST 507 TPMS 

I had first bought a Hughes, why>>> it cost less BUT the tire sensors did not have replaceable batteries so the replacement was expensive and eventually they discontinued making sensors.  So it ended up in the trash.

When I had new tires mounted in 2021 I had already bought a TST 507, went through the process of setting it up and give it a thumbs up.   It has never given me a bad reading and/or dropped a signal.  I do not use an extender. 

This year before my wife left on her trip I replaced the batteries which are readily available, all the sensors were still working but the batteries were +3 years old.  I do not remove them from the tires as on a regular basis I plug the monitor in and check pressures.  

I told my wife the coach does not move until the TPMS is up and showing good pressures.  She was getting ready to head home from Michigan last week and called me in a panic>>> "the tire pressure was only 65", I explained that that was the temperature so she let it scroll through each tire and read off the pressures, all were good. 

Rig doesn't move without the Silverleaf up and running communicating with engine/transmission.  I try to do everything I can to give to me the advantage to keep the coach running.  @22 years old you have to.

 

@tmw188 and I stay in touch, he sent me a picture of his storage yd neighbor's coach.  They had a front passenger side blow out, coach and toad ended up on it's side, totaled but luckily no bad injuries.  He had a TPMS but didn't install it prior to the 3K trip, 200 miles from home +10 year old front tire blew.  They were very lucky.

 


Washed and waxed
Pduggs

I had her washed yesterday and I waxed the roof this morning. Not bad looking for an old girl. I’ve waxed the roof every year, but this might be my last. I’m beat. I suppose a cooler day with clouds would help.

Washed and waxed
Brad 03 Windsor

a lot of work but worth the reward looks good   what is your wax preference 


Diamond Shield or 3M?
Brad 03 Windsor

I  just started ours, but the Texas sun is doing quite well on both the old adhesive and me 😅.  I will look into the Rapid Remover Blades


Washed and waxed
Tom Wallis

I washed my Monarch yesterday starting with the roof.  It was 107 here and it took me 3 hours to get er done. I would have waited for a nicer day bur I just bought an 02 HR Imperial 36PBD and I want to get the Monarch sold. The only way I could do it in that heat was to keep wetting my hat and t-shirt. Yes it is rewarding to stand back and look at it when you're all done.


Washed and waxed
Brad 03 Windsor

Next cover I'll have to raise the roof😃

Washed and waxed
Pduggs

40 minutes ago, house2go said:

a lot of work but worth the reward looks good   what is your wax preference 

Thanks. I’ve used a few products over the years, but nothing works as well as this. I can go a year without the roof chalking and leaving stains down the sides of the coach. 
Washed and waxed
96 EVO

Just finished painting my roof.

The way water is beading on it, it's going to need no wax!


Diamond Shield or 3M?
Steve P

Check this out at Amazon.com
JVSEYTE 4 PCS Plastic Razor Blade... NEED TPMS ADVICE - THANKS
Tom Cherry

NOTE

A new topic was created and all the pertinent posts were individually split off from the original...

See the edit on the first post.

Thanks for helping us out...


Garmin versus 'Other' GPS system(s)
Tom Cherry

NOTE.  There was a CHANGE OF TOPIC.  Going from GPS discussion to TPMS.  This is a violation of site rules. When a topic subject is switched, at the end or anywhere and the topic then drifts, it is impossible for members to be able to search or follow it.

In the future, we request that if a topic is being changed, to please notify a moderator....as well as simple statement....

The Topic (TPMS) is not germane to GPS and needs a new topic.

Thanks for helping out the Staff as moving all the responses to TPMS and creating a NEW topic is very time consuming....  We do NOT get DOUBLE TIME PAY for this.

Thanks for understanding.  TPMS are important....


2000 Dynasty Framing Photo
vito.a

Wow, that is so cool.  I can see the frame side wall trusses and the window supports.  

Thanks for posting.  


Electrical nightmare
birdshill123

I am having 12 volt issues with my radio, dash monitor and the hvac system. It has been an ongoing problem. About 18 momnhs ago my Sony monitor dies. I boughty a new monitor and the adapters from Tim @ RVcams. Worked great for about 6 months. Both Tom and Frank helpd me. At first it was the J connector in the FRB. I cleaned it up and all was well. But before we left Mexico in the spring the radio and the new monitor would not work. I have been having health issues and at 81 I am not as sharp as I once.  I opened up the dash and gave it about 1/2 day. Gave up. Yesterday I opened up the dash and removed the HVAC panel and radio. I looked at the wiring schematics. I cannot find the original connections from the old Sony monitor. I must have connected them up originally as everything worked. But I also must have disconnected them in the spring. This morning I had the monitor turned on . I can get into the menu. But no picture as the proper wires are not connected.  I have connected Cam 1 as RV cams instructed. I cannot find the Monaco / Sony wires. The radio was working up to today but suddenly quit. I checked all the fuses in both the FRB and RRB. Last week I changed the ignition switch as it was acting up. I cleaned all my batteries and load tested. Used a hydrometer as well. 2 of the 8 are border line but OK for now .Even the gen start switch mounted to the hvac panel is dead. I was going to connect the radio and monitor to a known 12  volt source. There is one #14 red wire that showed voltage this morning. Now that is dead as well I tested it with a multimeter and it shows 1.7 volts!. I checked the relays in the RRB and all are good. Fairly new. There are no mobile techs or shops that  understand Monaco's or any other high end unit in Manitoba. Closest is 500 miles and a border away. The only thing I have not tried is to crawl under and check all the grounds. All the lights, gauges, step, etc. work. Inverter will run the fridge. I could run a new 12 volt wire to the dash but that is not only difficult it does not fix what is causing the problem. Any help appreciated. The rear monitor  connects to all the cameras and the Alladin screens.


2000 Dynasty Framing Photo
Jim Pratten
18 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

I use a similar IR camera attached to my cell phone to spot hot locations indicating poor connections/failed components on circuit boards or loose high current low voltage battery connections.

Great application Frank.

My most memorable use of IR was a roofing survey of the complex looking for compromised roofs. Flew in a helicopter at sundown, taking IR photos of the built up roofs. The damaged areas typically trapped water with those areas showing up darker. Good fun.

 


Washed and waxed
Homebozy

Pdiggs - Sorry to tell you this buddy but you left a hand print on the back of the roof. Just kidding. Nice job.


Penguin II "Load Shed" wiring question
Tom Cherry
19 hours ago, hex_nut said:

Tom

Appreciate the additional information.  I forgot to mention that the old unit was a single zone on a single 5 button thermostat.  The new Penguin II has the CCC2 control board and I will be installing the CCC2 10 button thermostat.  I am just puzzled by the strange relay in the junction box.  I cannot figure out what it could accomplish.  There must have been a reason for wiring it that way back in 2005.  Perhaps they just used standardized components in all coach assemblies regardless of whether they had a load shedding system or not.  This relay may not accomplish anything.

Richard 

I guess the question is…. Is it on your prints”.  What controls it?  Where is it connected.

We sort of flounder around when it prints for your motorhome.  Soooo…. From the top…using the install install instructions for the OEM UNIT…

What model do you have?  Then go to the link and identify the circuit diagram….based on model.

They all, to me, look very similar.  Power comes in on the RIGHT side….and goes to various points.

I tried, valiantly, to get an explanation of the Yellow wires.  Basically, if they are connected, I think, that shuts down the unit.  You can call, and we’d appreciate that, Dometic and ask them.  If making a circuit between the two yellows “kills or load sheds” then AC….then Monaco COULD have used the Intellitec EMS…but “too much trouble”.

Next up.  You say the relay is an AC powered relay???  OK, what supplies POWER to it? NOW…is it a Normally OPEN or CLOSED relay?  As in…power to it CLOSES or energizes the coil….and then….the dry contacts on the Yellow wires shut down the SYSTEM?

Can’t tell you WHAT to do…except the OLD instructions say….MAKE IT LIKE THE ONE YOU ARE REMOVING…

So, do a little sleuthing….how does the Dometic work? Find out where the AC line runs….and what powers that relay…

I’d really want to know?.  Does your manual discuss LOAD SHEDDING in the HVAC section??

get back to us….

Thanks.

 

Electrical nightmare
Tom Cherry

1 hour ago, birdshill123 said:

I am having 12 volt issues with my radio, dash monitor and the hvac system. It has been an ongoing problem. About 18 momnhs ago my Sony monitor dies. I boughty a new monitor and the adapters from Tim @ RVcams. Worked great for about 6 months. Both Tom and Frank helpd me. At first it was the J connector in the FRB. I cleaned it up and all was well. But before we left Mexico in the spring the radio and the new monitor would not work. I have been having health issues and at 81 I am not as sharp as I once.  I opened up the dash and gave it about 1/2 day. Gave up. Yesterday I opened up the dash and removed the HVAC panel and radio. I looked at the wiring schematics. I cannot find the original connections from the old Sony monitor. I must have connected them up originally as everything worked. But I also must have disconnected them in the spring. This morning I had the monitor turned on . I can get into the menu. But no picture as the proper wires are not connected.  I have connected Cam 1 as RV cams instructed. I cannot find the Monaco / Sony wires. The radio was working up to today but suddenly quit. I checked all the fuses in both the FRB and RRB. Last week I changed the ignition switch as it was acting up. I cleaned all my batteries and load tested. Used a hydrometer as well. 2 of the 8 are border line but OK for now .Even the gen start switch mounted to the hvac panel is dead. I was going to connect the radio and monitor to a known 12  volt source. There is one #14 red wire that showed voltage this morning. Now that is dead as well I tested it with a multimeter and it shows 1.7 volts!. I checked the relays in the RRB and all are good. Fairly new. There are no mobile techs or shops that  understand Monaco's or any other high end unit in Manitoba. Closest is 500 miles and a border away. The only thing I have not tried is to crawl under and check all the grounds. All the lights, gauges, step, etc. work. Inverter will run the fridge. I could run a new 12 volt wire to the dash but that is not only difficult it does not fix what is causing the problem. Any help appreciated. The rear monitor  connects to all the cameras and the Alladin screens.

There are 2 grounds in the back, under or behind the battery box.  Remove the nuts and clean the paint on the frame around the welded stud.  Then use steel wool and clean the rings or the cable ends.  Tighten back up.  I spray with battery terminal corrosion “paint”.

Next.  Up front, there is ONE ground from the generator cranking studs to ground….and one positive to the front. FWIW.  These cables are #2 Gauge.  We have determined that Monaco GOOFED.  They should have been 2/0 (00). Did an extensive Cable Voltage Drop workup.  In addition, a member took the recommendation and replaced his with 2/0 (00).  CRANKS as it should….so we KNOW that works….theory and calculations said so.  Replacement made all the difference….best ever as lomg as he has owned coach.  That WILL NOT fix the gauges and such….but it WILL allow you to reliably crank the genny….put on a TO DO list.  There is a topic on this.

NEXT…there is at least 2 or maybe 3 ground cables up front.  Frank is the expert. One may be a shared one.  The HWH probably has a dedicated ground.  Trace it.  There may be another cable or so on that stud.  Clean as before. Then, either on the prints or start looking up front.  Chase the large or maybe between your thumb and first finger sized cables.  Will be black.  Find their studs.  They MAY have a bolt and not a stud, but drilled and tapped into frame.

A Finally, there is a large GROUND BUSS in the dash area….may have a cable the size of your little finger going to it.  Chase that.  Folks have run new grounds but Frank, I think, has some “electronic” reasons why that can also cause issues.  So, locate the ground cables coming into the dash area and then keep tracing until you find a connection or whatever.

NOW….voltage testing…and this is generic….can be tricky.  Folks don’t understand that you REALLY have to use s sharp probe and break the paint on the frame or whatever.  I’d locate a BOLTED cable or find a bolt that you can remove without doing any damage.  Maybe a solenoid bolted to a frame.  Loosen up one bolt and put a piece of at least #14 wire and run it inside and use it with an alligator clip for your meter.  I can’t count the number of times not having a good meter ground has given false info and drove folks crazy.

Frank will probably chime in..my input is generic….but it has to be done.. 


Garmin versus 'Other' GPS system(s)
Chuck-Kathy_Orlando
5 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

NOTE.  There was a CHANGE OF TOPIC.  Going from GPS discussion to TPMS.  This is a violation of site rules. When a topic subject is switched, at the end or anywhere and the topic then drifts, it is impossible for members to be able to search or follow it.

In the future, we request that if a topic is being changed, to please notify a moderator....as well as simple statement....

The Topic (TPMS) is not germane to GPS and needs a new topic.

Thanks for helping out the Staff as moving all the responses to TPMS and creating a NEW topic is very time consuming....  We do NOT get DOUBLE TIME PAY for this.

Thanks for understanding.  TPMS are important....

Sorry about that.  Didn't realize that I changed the subject and kept it on the same thread.  I'll remember next time to create a new thread on the new question or subject.


Electrical nightmare
birdshill123

I did see the ground bus under the dash. I was using a ground from the ignition switch. I tried to follow that red #14 under the dash but it disappeared into a loom made of heavy black "stuff". When vehicles were not so complex a bad ground would be  my guess.

 


Penguin II "Load Shed" wiring question
hex_nut

 I have now installed the Penguin II and the CCC2 thermostat.  The unit is functioning just as I expected it to.  I have done some testing on the relay that the factory originally installed and attached the "Load Shed" wires to.  When 120 volt AC power is removed from the unit, the relay connects the 2 "Load Shed" wires together (so the relay connections for the yellow wires are normally closed).  When power is restored, the relay disconnects the 2 "Load Shed" wires (so the relay connections are now open).  This relay may have had a purpose in higher end coaches that had a load shedding system installed.  It seems to serve no purpose in my Monterey.  The only thing I can speculate is that the factory used the same junction box regardless of whether the coach had a load shedding system or not.  I am going to contact Dometic to determine if I can simply tape off the "Load Shed" wires (the yellow ones) and not connect them to anything.

Richard


Information of potential issues from a failed water check valve.
trailmug
On 5/8/2024 at 2:14 PM, Donflem said:

I just replaced the check valve on my Dynasty a few weeks ago. I was able to get to it without removing anything. I went through the slide out tray compartment.

Don

IMG_1257.png

IMG_0598.jpeg

Mind sharing where I can get one of those? 

 

Thanks,

Rob


Information of potential issues from a failed water check valve.
Donflem

I got it from a mobile mechanic. It was made by Campco I wouldn’t recommend it it leaks back a little. 
Don


Information of potential issues from a failed water check valve.
willbo777
6 hours ago, trailmug said:

Mind sharing where I can get one of those? 

 

Thanks,

Rob

I just got several from RVupgrades.  Sit down before you look they have certainly gone up in price.



New Downloads


2006 Monaco Diplomat / Holiday Rambler Endeavor Plumbing Diagrams
2006 Monaco Diplomat / Holiday Rambler Endeavor Plumbing Diagrams
Scotty Hutto
A full set of hot, cold, and drain water plumbing diagrams specific to a 2006 Diplomat/Endeavor 40 DST (bath and a half).  Some portions may reflect other layouts.

2006 Monaco Diplomat Paint Codes
2006 Monaco Diplomat Paint Codes
Scotty Hutto
Complete paint code details for 2006 Diplomats - all color schemes.


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