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Here's what the Monacoers have been talking about:
Index
Tom Cherry
Discussions
Superpro14
Morning Jim,
don't suppose you could walk me through the steps to create an account and register, every time I try , I select create an account and it goes to a page with 4 windows, one is free, next one is $50 for year and so on, I only tried free and it doesn't go anywhere, Thanks
Superpro14
I also got mine from Amazon and green filling cap would not stay tight, I went and got a short piece of Rad hose and put a plug in the hose and threw the green cap away, just remove the plug to add coolent, havn't had an issue with it since, been to Flordia and back to Nova Scotia twice
MyronTruex
10 hours ago, Benjamin said:I don't see the "culprit" label either. I wouldn't read too much into a hot solenoid/relay. If it's on for long enough some of them will get hot even with no current. Unplug from shore power and it should cool off or else it would drain the battery fast. One thing to pay attention to, does the relay click when the key reaches "run" or "start"? there should be both, but the start relay may be one of the small plastic cubes and not be loud enough to hear. I would not use ohms for much of anything, test voltage under load in this situation. Ohms lies, voltage under load always tells the truth.
Words of wisdom here.
Plugged into shoreline may be activating a battery combining solenoid and when on all the time can get too hot to touch. I am putting together a video on such a situation.
Ohms lies, voltage under load always tells the truth is a fantastic comment. And a digital voltmeter will lie to you if the circuit is not under load.
Tom Cherry
23 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:
Assume that you searched, FIRST, READ the topics and THEN posted. If not, please do so in the future.Key WORD search HEADLIGHT UPGRADE ...then Topics from Everywhere. This is a GUIDELINES REQUIREMENT....prior to posting.
https://www.monacoers.org/search/?q=headlight upgrade&quick=1&type=forums_topic
Please read the various Topics. Everything that has ever been written here about Headlights and how to do what is in there.
OK...FWIW...the last topic was in January...so that allows a NEW topic (typically the 6 month old rule applies...)
Bottom line. There are THREE steps or options...in a nutshell.
Add separate HIGH and LOW Headlight Relays... OF COURSE...ADJUSTING yours up is assumed to be something you will do and check. There are MANY charts and YouTube on that...
Convert to the Sylvania HIGHER POWER Halogen bulbs. Many have done that. That helps.
Convert to LED. NOW...here is where many assume that MY 2000 Dynasty is just like the 2010 Diplomat.
THEY AIN'T. The LED bulb ONLY work if you have the BULB socket exposed from the rear of the fixture. My Camelot, and a lot of others, used a TOTALLY enclosed DOT approved HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY. The wiring goes from the Monaco Harness to the Headlight harness. The BULBS, for road protection, are recessed INSIDE the Fixture. That is where the 3 Wire terminal is. I have UPGRADED a BUNCH of cars and trucks to LED for friends.
The issue.... THE LED's are longer or fatter...(maybe that has changed)., but the HEAT SINK on the REAR will NOT WORK in my Camelot fixture. You can't even get it IN...much less plug in the terminal. Some CARS are that way...the designers of the older cars put the bulb terminal so close to the sheet metal that holds the radiator or whatever. You DO NOT HAVE Rear Clearance. I have seen those sheet metal panels cut with a Hole Saw to allow the bulb in. I have installed some without pulling the Headlight assembly. I HAVE had to pull the assembly (the DOT fixture) just to get the long bulbs in.
SO...be cognizant that YOUR MH may have constraints. You will need to LOOK and be aware that the LED's are gonna be longer. The Heat Sink can't be buried...the bulbs will fail.
NOW...the NEXT thing...and some try this first. You ADD a Relay to the LOW and HIGH beam wiring. Your headlight switch actually runs THROUGH the Dimmer Stalk on the steering Column. If the voltage is low coming in...it gets LOWER....SO...ake the HIGH BEAM and LOW BEAM output...feed that into Terminals 85 and 86 of a 20 Amp BOSCH relay. That then controls the ON and OFF of the Headlights. You then take a #12 Stranded wire, with an INLINE fuse, and run it from the Chassis Stud to Terminal 30 of the Relay. Then you run Terminal 87 to the LOW beam circuit...and do the same for the HIGH Beam. This gives you NO VOLTAGE DROP. The headlights will be BRIGHTER. How MUCH...depends on the voltage drops and assumes NO High Resistance connections.
You have to ORDER relay Sockets (Pigtails) with #12 WIRING. Use a #16...IT WILL NOT carry enough AMPS. Folks, the hard way, learned this. THEN they upgraded to the #12 wire and got brighter headlights.
OK...then comes the LED conversion. LED's are POLARITY sensitive. You can USUALLY swap the terminals 180 degrees....ALL the Halogen bulb are polarized or go on only ONE WAY. Common misfortune...They BULBS don't COME ON...Sent them back...new ones the same. NOPE...INSTRUCTIONS SAY.. NO ON...SWAP or REVERSE the PLUG. NOW... again...if you can NOT reverse the terminal due to clearance issues behind the bulb...you do it UPSTREAM. You find the GROUND for that circuit. REVERSE. The Ground Wire is NOW the Positive...Relay is FINE...nothing to change there...
That's my synopsis. Frankly, I do NOT DRIVE at NIGHT. I have traded cars for LED headlights. I upgraded my Yukon. It is NIGHT and DAY difference.
TIP.. After you install the LED's , figure out WHICH adjustment is UP/DOWN. Give the UP a quarter turn. DRIVE IT. I never saw much change in the LED's until I had gone maybe 2 turns in the UP direction. BUT, OK...am I blinding folks? Drove each adjustment for maybe a week....almost an hour every night on local roads. NO FLASH FLASH at me. Kept going until I was PLEASED...as to my NEW headlights. Nobody every flashed me or fired a warning shot (LOL...it DOES HAPPEN). SO, I am an advocate of LED upgrade.
BUT, it is NOT possible on mine. If I EVER did...I would install a HIGH and LOW LED light bar...
NOW...again...there will be many examples, probably given here. Just be aware that they all fall into the above. The individual DOT headlight assembly and WHAT is behind it and how it is mounted is the key. GO read and also look at yours or their pictures.. Too many folks have told 2008 and up Camelot members to just CONVERT to LED. When the members asked how...they say...SIMPLE change the Bulbs. BUT, now you know...THERE AIN'T ROOM.
Good Luck. I am interested to see if there are some new tricks....In some models...simple, way easier that cars or trucks that I have done. In my Camelot...HELLO LIGHT BAR... BUT, the Relay WILL, along with the Sylvania Bulbs provide improvement...
Followup to my post. Joe contacted me and had done two searches "headlights dim" or "aiming low". There were many hits and such, but the one topic that popped up and got my attention was the one with 46 posts and it was a general discussion of headlights and the consensus that adding a relay to get good voltage was the best or most logical step. Thanks to Joe for clearing that up and also for searching and reading.
The staff and as well as many other seasoned and experienced members...and that includes the new members that have joined, but obviously from their comments, even though they have a "low" post count...are great resources.
Bottom line...and this is from the Staff's trouble shooting experience or reading.
Voltage is the FIRST thing to check. There are way too many places for the headlights to have a voltage drop up stream.
There are either one or two relays, depending on the years and the VIP Smartwheel, if on the MH as well as two different versions of the Smartwheel, that can go bad.
There is a generic circuit that has the headlights. In ALL cases, the headlight switch is the first, but it can then feed another relay or it can also be integrated with the Smartwheel. AND THEN, it really gets complicated. For the sake of "Headlights -101", I have attached my Camelot print.
The circuit for the headlights gets contorted. BUT, if you go past all that and look at the HI/LO Dimmer....it FEEDS the headlights. Now, this may cause many, as it did me, eyes to ROLL and say "IM DOOMED" and get out the 4SALE sign (Junior Samples BR549)
BUT if you really want to learn and not get totally freaked out....look at the top center of the print. There is a Relay. BUT, look to the RIGHT. There is the DIMMER SWITCH. Bottom line, we know from literally thousands of posts over years that if you have even half or more voltage drop...then the headlights are gonna be DIM. SO, the last switch in the circuit....the DIMMER.
Then the logic... Use a NEW, 100% FULL Voltage (fused 20 A) with #12 wire and put in TWO relays. There are NO DOWNSTREAM Relays from the Dimmer.
DO THAT. They are gonna work the best they can. NOW, there is also a benefit. The DIMMER switch, which is a PITA to replace, will no LONGER pull the 17 or so amps. THAT varies. Most headlight bulbs are 55 watts. OK, if all FOUR headlight bulbs are ON that is 220 watts. Divided by 13 VAC (Charging) that is 17 amps.
SO, you add the relay. The DIMMER switch gets a rest. You have FULL voltage to the headlight.
THEN....start the rest of the trouble shooting or such.
NOW... many have installed driving lights or fog lights on their vehicles. The kits ALL COME WITH A RELAY. The additional lights will cause an OVERLOAD in any vehicle's headlight circuit. SO, the supplemental lights are direct powered from a relay.
THAT IS THE LOGIC behind "first step", give the headlights a FULL 12 (13) VDC...and the only way... a separate relay for each circuit...HIGH and LOW.
Then, the rest...aiming, or upgrading or such.
If you look at all the subsequent posts and the illustrations....it is obvious that an LED bulb is FATTER.
The comment about HID Projector bulbs is spot on. THEY ARE GREAT...but they also require a supplemental POWER Supply. I have messed with them and the bulbs are NOT LED upgradable. I helped my GS purchase a used 2012 Acura. The car was spotless. The headlights were GONE...the interior reflectors were TOAST.
OK...more than you will want to KNOW. The reflectors of ANY Headlight or Taillight are NOT painted on. They USED to be Electroplated with a hard, SHINY CHROME. That was driven out of business due to the rinse waters and such from the plating line. These lines and I put TWO IN when working were at least $1 to $2 Million and you needed at least a HALF MILLION $$ Water Treatment Plant...on SITE...to be able to discharge to a municipal sewer. I learned how to PLATE and TREAT out of necessity in 1974 and then knowing that process and chemical skills was something that I could NEVER escape, but it also was always in NEED...
The NEW headlight reflectors are VACUUM Metallized and UV Topcoated (some are...some aren't). Google that if you like...but that is the BRIGHTEST reflector you can get. My GD's reflectors were PITTED. We put in two new aftermarket Projector beam DOT assemblies and the world lit up.
That's sort of a followup based on the PM from Joe...who followed the guidelines.. sometimes you have to use combinations. I use the search function at least 5 times a day. I look for key words and also the one with the MOST replies and is the most current.
GOOD LUCK to JOE...this is a great topic and "rerunning it" helps teach other members...
Tom Cherry
12 hours ago, rpasetto said:I remember taking out a Norcold 1200... removing (prying?) the plastic trim around it exposed screws, if I recall. However on the Dometic NDA 402 there looks like the exterior trim piece wraps around behind the doors and, somehow? is fastened to the case of the refer. Any suggestions on how to pry the trim away to expose the screws... if there are any. Also where else it is fastened in?
The Dometic slides OUT. You push it from behind or pull it out. There is NOT, at least on mine, any MONACO facade. Just an opening. Then you take off the doors. Then get it out (window recommended). Bring in the new one...doors OFF...
Remove the insulation or the walls or if it was on the Dometic...it is GONE. Add the vertical strip...my "interior cabinet" had one...NO REASON..but it was what made mine WORK with thy custom designed brackets. The installer said that the shop (it was a BIG shop...maybe 30 bays) was going to do this from now on and they took pictures and a video.
They were NOT aware of the need to INSULATE and close off the outside access panels.
As long as you can SLIDE OUT or pull or get the Dometic out....go from there.
YES...been there... MEASURED....designed the holding system....drew up a sketch....told the installer to use this..but if there was a better way...do it.
It worked...the only issue was they did NOT cut the shelf that the Dometic was on correctly. They should have realized to take it all the way back to the outer wall. I saw that...and just fixed it myself.
Rikadoo
Mornin Paule, so from some one working in the field more than i want to i see more than my share of solinoid issues. What i can tell you is that shinny one labled 12V appears to to be a intermintet type, there designation is they can not handle long turn use. If left on the case will get so hot you cant touch them. In the world of parts most “parts people” today have no clue what your wanting. Nowdays it pays to know what you want, and evenknow what you have when you get it. I use amazon alot cause of out parts people here, an because of my experience i have learned if the one i trust the most (cole hersee) is out of stock then what ever i get in its place, before i install it i just connect 12V to it (the little stud an ground) an let it sit for a few minutets. If the case gets soo hot you cant handle it you have a intermintet style, which predomently should only be used on start circuits. One way to tell your system is to connect a volt meter to the little wire and your other probe to ground, then just turn key to on, look at your meter, does it show battery volts? If it does then the application is requiring a continuous duty type solenoid.
one last thing, i had a 1998 come in customer complaint was it wont turn over with the key, but if he jumpered the solinoid it would, long story, it ended up i found a immobilizer type of alarm mounted inside the center drawer in the dash, i had to take the drawer out to get to it. It finally 💩the bed so i just had to bypass the crank circuit wires an then it would start. Sorry for no pic
RoadTripper2084
If it were me I'd try giving the starter solenoid (on the starter itself) a gentle but firm whack with a large wrench to see if that common quick-fix does the trick. If it does, it's your starter. Then I'd check the power at the starter, and work backwards from there if there wasn't any/sufficient.
rustykramermetalfab
I think your lights are the BMW 5 series? If so they are the same as the 2000-2005 Dynasty. The lights in my 2000 Dynasty we jammed so tight in the front cap I could never get them adjusted properly. Monaco just had them wedged in pointed at the ground. It would need a lot of fiberglass grinding to relocate them properly. I always ran them on high beam never bothered and I could see they were actually turned on. I never got to that point I upgraded to a newer coach. I think some driving lights like Dick Bell did would be the easiest and most cost effective to get some decent light. Just get them aimed so they do not bother oncoming traffic and you are fine.
Tom Cherry
I’m starting from the basics….and also what limited resources we have. Odds are….and this appears to be logical….there is a set of prints in the files. They are for a DYNASTY…but based on all i think I know and others….the Dynasty and Windsor main chassis and house was close…so let’s go there.
DOWNLOAD THIS
OK…to your point. Throwing money and guessing ain’t the way.
There are at least TWO Solenoids that I know (ok not betting the family fortune).
First….the print days IGNITION Solenoid. That one is easy to find. Out your VOM on one….choose whichever. Put on the two small coil wires. Then turn on the ignition. NO COIL POWER….keep searching. From the print, you should be able to locate it. That supplies CHASSIS power to the entire charging and chassis system….headlights and all the switches and the whole mess.
Now there will ALSO be a BOOST soleoind. Key ON…. Then have your son push the BATT BOOST or BOOST switch. There will THEN be power to that solenoid. You can FEEL it engage. He can click it on and off (spring loaded momentary contact switch). That connects the HOUSE and CHASSIS banks….my GUT and I know that the WR stands for White Rodgers is probably the new one. OPPS!! MYSTERY. The plate data is confusing. Ordinarily that is a 100 AMP solenoid.
It you use the SEARCH BOX in the upper right….use WHITE RODGERS or WHITE or RODGERS. Then click on Everywhere….then select TOPICS. There are countless posts…and many have the proper PN. I’d google the WR PN on yours. If the specs are NOT 12VDC CONTINUOUS 100A, then the person that put it in goofed and thought there was only ONE white rodgers solenoid and bought it. IT DOES HAPPEN….way to OFTEN. I can fix it. I took it out. I saw one that looked like it. I ordered it. IT DON’T WORK…. Did you read and understand???
Now…there is probably one MORE. IF you have a BATTERY CUTOFF switch on the left side as you come in…then you have the SALESMAN solenoid. Read the domestic electrical system chapter in the manual. Hope you have read that and the chassis. MUCH INFO THERE.
So, if you have that switch, there is another solenoid. It is different. It is a LATCHING style. There will be, typically one or two auto type fuse holders in the plastic housing. Have your son push it down….the solenoid will click. Keep doing this. There is NO coil voltage when the switch is in the center spring loaded position. Up latches in the SOLENOID ON. Down (momentarily) latches it OFF.
Exhaust Manifold Options
jacwjames
Go to the free window, it will walk you through the process and YES you do have to put it in a cart but at the end there is not charge. When you proceed to check out it will bring up a page that you put in the information to create the account. One issue some people get hung up on is company name, >>> just make one up. Fill out the rest of the info, and go to the next page and follow instructions.
I've had an account for +10 years. Earlier this year I couldn't log in, I tried for several weeks and finally just called the customer service line. Turns out Cummins Quickserve changed the requirements for the User Name, it had to be an email address. The customer support person explained this and stayed on the line as I created a new account. So I'm back on line and log in at least once a week to look at something usually trying to help others.
The have changed the format of the website so it take a little while to get use to but worth the effort.
One thing I do when I look something up I print the page to a PDF and store it in my files. This includes parts pages, fault code descriptions, troubleshooting. In the past you could download the whole maintenance manual, now you can do it in only small section. When I'm looking for something specific I'll use key word search and can usually find the info.
Attached is the exhaust manifold parts detail for my engine, I saved this when I had to change my manifold in 2015
Exhaust Manifold Parts detail Cummins Quickserve with prices.pdf
Ivylog
I mounted the LED spotlights next to the mirror bases which is the max legal height of 54”. As you can see in this picture, they are aimed down and to the right. To begin with, I’d turn them off when there was opposing traffic but I finally tried leaving them on… in 4+ hours no one flashed me. I did turn them off when passing another vehicle until alongside and then back on… they always created a longer sight distance than what I was passing by a noticeable amount. Best $30 you can spend for driving at night… OK, $50 when you include the foot switch and wiring.
diplomat don
13 hours ago, B8mnJr said:Hi all… Vito was able to send me a copy of the 2003 Brochure. Thanks Vito!
in looking at it, it shows the Baroness with a 242” wheelbase and 40’10” overall length, however, the 2002 Sig Baroness as well as the Dynasty for 2002 thru 2004 have the same wheel base and have an overall length of 39’10”... Does anyone know the overall length of the Baroness, specifically the 2003, but any year would be helpful…. I making considerations based on garage length…
Thanks,
‘Ben
Ben I would recommend building one that will handle a 45 footer. You may decide to upgrade down the road or the next property owner may purchase due to the RV garage. When I built our new house with detached shop I built mine 36 ft with 14 ft clearance with the thought of a 32 to 34 gasser. So I ended up with a 38 footer and now have a 42. Due to lot size and location of house not expandable so now have a nice bay for storing crap. Not that much more cost to make it bigger now. JMO Good luck, Don
windsorbill06
Don,
@diplomat donI think he has the garage, just trying to find something that will fit. I had a friend that bought a 38' coach to fit his 39' garage. Ended up taking the rear ladder off to get it in.
Paul J A
8 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:When I was hanging 4'x12' ceiling sheetrock in my 15 foot high garage ceiling for the coach, I built a 4'X8' rolling scaffold out of 2x4 and 2x6 lumber with a 4'x8' plywood floor. I wanted a solid platform with rails both near the foot base floor and at waist level. I really didn't like the ones I saw at the big box stores. Originally, I thought this was temporary but found that is was a great, solid, safe working platform when working on the coach so I never unbolted to disassemble it. I tied a ladder to one side to safely climb up to the platform about 8' off the floor. And yes, it easily rolls on the floor to where I need it.
Did you use locking casters? That's what I use when renting scaffolding.
marsingbob
I second facebook marketplace. I tried it, the forum for the club of the make, and craigslist when I sold mine. Most responses from facebook, and it reaches a much wider geographic area then craigslist.
jacwjames
9 minutes ago, Paul J A said:Did you use locking casters? That's what I use when renting scaffolding.
Depends on what I'm doing, mine came with locking casters but when I was doing my belt molding I left them unlocked and was able to move the scaffolding around the coach while doing the work. Just had the supplies on the scaffold and was able to do pretty long sections.
You do have to be careful though, I was putting a ceiling up on a portion of the covered deck and I leaned back a little to much and lost my balance, my back hit the wall but then the scaffolding started to move, I had no where to go but down, landed flat on my back but luckily I was ~4' off the ground. Sore but not broken.
scottknight
Just to mention I found from other document's solutions (Norcold) that changing the location of the clip on thermoststate from one fin to another changes the cooling in the freezer \refrigerator, freezer getting the first cold energy then the regulation is in the refregeration portion . There is a method to retrieve error codes from digital readout on front of refrigerator temp readout. My risk is the firebox on these units. I discovered color changes of inside liner when cleaning bottom bin inside refrigarator which looks to be close to location of propane firebox. At that time i increased the space between the firebox and the wall of the refrigarator and keep that lower bin full of water bottles ( not too proud of this solution water bottles fire suppression) but keep looking at the efficient of going electric only. I read where people remove slides\ windshields 2 piece and i need to replace gaskets due to age \ partial dissemble \ front door and remove passenger chair use moving blankets conversion kits ect. I have a window next to the front door that might work. I have also seen burned up MH carcasses parked. I do have concerns about propane refrigerators. May need chair lift for wife so i dont want to use window option yet. 05 Knight . 37 ft MH, furnace under refridgerator . The rv industry has made improvments in some of their products that help with decisions we as owners know it is how much $$ it takes to do it!
Ladder or scaffolding
Paul J A
6 minutes ago, jacwjames said:Depends on what I'm doing, mine came with locking casters but when I was doing my belt molding I left them unlocked and was able to move the scaffolding around the coach while doing the work. Just had the supplies on the scaffold and was able to do pretty long sections.
You do have to be careful though, I was putting a ceiling up on a portion of the covered deck and I leaned back a little to much and lost my balance, my back hit the wall but then the scaffolding started to move, I had no where to go but down, landed flat on my back but luckily I was ~4' off the ground. Sore but not broken.
YEP!! I also used cut up pool noodles where ever, on the scaffolding . Keeps the dings off the adjoining exposed what ever surfaces. I used to keep a trash can liner full of bubble wrap for what ever too. Handy.
Paul J A
On 7/11/2024 at 11:57 AM, Tom Cherry said:Not quite sure what the objective is or the final solution.
- All three of the units are working now...? Confirm Please
- You want to replace NOW, the working 15K unit in the bedroom with a 11K unit....Heat PUMP, I assume? Confirm Please
- Therefore you will need to install the DUMB DOWN adapter or Controller (AC Board) and keep the OEM so that your 5 Button CCC MPX will work with the present control system.
- When one or more....of the OTHER TWO units FAILS...you will replace with the new CCC2 Penguins...and replace the Bedroom controller so that they all work off the CCC1 MPX system.
NOW a question...OR A THEORY... Based on looking at YOUR 42 PDQ and MY 20 PDQ, the SHOWER SIDE has the DUCT WORK RUN BROKEN. Hence the ROAD SIDE, where your Shower is, has the Bedroom Run Duct SHUT OFF at the wall (adjacent to the SHOWER. THAT causes you to have the "Meat Locker effect in the Bedroom.
Now, that also has a GOOD SIDE. The Heat Pump in the Bedroom is WAY MORE efficient. Not having the FULL Length duct work caused your Bedroom unit to run HOTTER...regardless of mode. If you go up and pull the covers. Use a Thermal (laser do) pyrometer. Measure several points on the compressor and lines and such. I can NOT remember the exact numbers...but the temps were at least 10...maybe 15 or more hotter in the REAR than in the FRONT. PANICKED, was I, and Dometic said....NORMAL for a MONACO rig where they SHUT DOWN or closed ONE SIDE of the Full Length RUN.
Will give you a LOT MORE Heat in HP mode....and you KNOW it overcools as it is. I set my Bedroom about 2 or 3 degrees higher in cooling. You HAVE THE LUXURY of 3 units. So, you have 42.5 K in 42 Feet or about 1K per Foot. Mine is way under that. I have 30K in 40 feet...or 0.75K per FOOT. That is MARGINAL...
OK, from a THEORETICAL stand point. The EMS is kicking or shutting OFF your Rear AC when you exceed the 30 Amp set point. That is measured off the White Neutral.
If you really want to run BOTH AC's, then you need to rethink your Magnum setup. When you are on 30 Amps... turn DOWN the CHARGE PERCENTAGE (or whatever it is called) from 80% (which is where I run mine to keep from overworking the 15 YO Inverter. Magnum sets it to a DEFAULT of 90%. OK, on a NEW inverter....you can do 100%. WHY?? All you are trying to do on 30 AMPS is "MAINTAIN". One does NOT NEED 100%.... That only heats up the FET's and such and your Inverter runs WAY HOTTER....and HEAT is the death of them... PER MAGNUM.
SO, crank down the % Charge Rate to 30%. Then, you SHOULD pull less current as the Magnum knows to SLOW DOWN..
I'd experiment with that...
Beyond that, and I have never had the need or the inclination to be TOTALLY Selfcontained and LIVE OFF THE GRID as well as NOT running the Genny. I'd leave the AC's alone. I'd spend the extra minute when I have to exist on 30 Amps cranking down the Magnum...and if that was NOT enough, I'd get rid of the crappy OEM solar. We have either 60 or 65 Watts...and it ain't NOWHERE near that (look at the controller)...60 Watts, in theory, gives you 5 Amps. BUT, if you look at the Losses and such...a 60 probably only give a smidge, NEW, over 4 Amps. Replace the old panel and add another one. SAY 120 Amps. You could THEN actually SHUT OFF the Charger (you can experiment right now...or set the Charge Rate to 10 or ZERO (if an option)...
You maintain your batteries. The inverter doesn't PULL or use any power. The incoming AC is being PASSED THROUGH the internal ATS. You give your old Charger a REST...It appreciates that and it runs COOLER.
That's my take. We had one really "out there" member that added a 110 VAC Window Unit to his 06 Dynasty. He HAD also added the SAME Intellitec 750 EMS like we have. We THINK that is the ONLY Dynasty with the EMS....and NOT OEM. SO, his solution. He ran, while driving, the smaller window unit.
Just a thought. NOW....why NOT really go FAR OUT? Replace the Bedroom. Downgrade the rest. That is a TOTAL of 38K...or you have 0.904 K per foot. That is 21% MORE than the shorter TWO Foot SHORTER rigs.. If I had 20% MORE, I would be thrilled...and It would be comfortable.
SO...downsize....go ALL THE WAY..., you could EVEN downsize all of them to 13.5K and have 40.5 K or 0.964. That would, with a reduced Charging Rate, I predict...even lay a small wager, solve your issue...
Things to think about.
Your topic is interesting...but it involves just more than a "GUT FEEL" analysis and the idiosyncracies of the Monaco Ducting have to be taken into account...as well as whether you need the HP or the AC more or equally...BUT...the REAL solution. Put the MH on a DIET...and turning down the Charging Rate is the simplest and most effective...
We had one really "out there" member. ?????
jacwjames
I have NOT read this entire post.
Would just like a simple answer, I am planning a trip for later this year and had planned going into California,
DO I NEED TO WORRY ABOUT THE CARB RULES.
B8mnJr
Bill is correct… unfortunately when I built my garage I didn’t own an RV, so I used my neighbor’s Fleetwood for dimensions…he had a 39’ and I didn’t know most are just over 40’. I added a foot from his Fleetwood thinking I would be good, as I was also limited in the garage’s overall size by my cities restrictions.. I’m about 40’4” from inside the garage door to the back wall….
so my search has been for under 40’ .. and even at that, I won’t know for sure until I try and get it inside.
anyone with a Signature Baroness that can actually measure it for me?
thanks!
Ben
jimc99999
On my 97 Windsor I only hooked up the tach wire, and the alt fail light works properly. This alternator is a Pasco, I think on Delco alternators the W terminal would be labeled R.
The 97 Windsor has the C8.3 mechanical Cummins motor so there's no ECM. I'm not sure when Monaco switched to the newer motors with ECMs but I think that was in the 98-99 timeframe.
Les Hurdle
All I can say is I live in CA, I completed the CARB paperwork and have not heard back.
DMV AAA have no idea. Local guy who will conduct opacity test is not sure.
BTW just to be safe you could call Kenny. AV Truck Repair. Lancaster......661 733 0784. $200 for the test, if you pass I guess you would be good to go.
L
Frank McElroy
1 hour ago, Paul J A said:Did you use locking casters? That's what I use when renting scaffolding.
I think I did have locking casters but I don't recall using all of them. I always relocated the scaffold by first climbing down. Since I was doing ceiling work there was really nothing to push against to move the scaffold while on it.
jacwjames
So I currently have AAA and have had them for +20 years, Had to have my Class C towed once and the Class A twice, all three times the tow was under 100 miles "barely".
I just received my AAA renewal, it has gone up to $234 for the vehicles plus Premier RV.
Checked on Coachnet and it is only slightly more but the benefits are much better, particularly towing distance. I've read some of the previous posts on coachnet and can't see any downside from switching providers.
Am I missing something,
Planning on a long trip out west again this year, the last two years on trips out west I've major issues, didn't need a tow but came close. That's what happens when you drive a 23 year old house on wheels.
Les Hurdle
addendum. Finally found the payment forms............... had to pay $30 for 2023 as well ????
So $60 in all
scottjo02
19 hours ago, Jim McGarvie said:Ours has the same square tube, but it is not fiberglassed to anything. It is just bolted to the angle at each end of it. IIRC I just unbolted the front fiberglass pieces from it and unbolted the square tube from the angle on each end. It doesn't do much; just supports the genny compartment door, and stabilizes the fiberglass on each side.
Thanks to each of you that helped me with your experience removing the gen. One last request for Jim McGarvie: would it be possible for you to take a photo of the square tube on your coach where it is near the fiberglass? That would help me understand the difference in how our coaches were made.
Thanks,
Scott
Chad A
I just let my AAA lapse. They only cover up to $500 for a tow now. Not worth the money for the membership in my opinion. I got stuck and needed a tow. Was going to be $4500 out of my pocket after AAA paid their $500.
I was able to get it fixed on the side of the road for cheaper.
Just my opinion.
Hancoman
Had to have 43 ft executive towed a couple weeks ago. We were not totally off the road but not blocking. Called coach net and they were great finding a tow company and a safe place for us to spend the night. The tow bill was 1400.00 because it was a four hour minimum. I didn’t have to pay anything, for the tow Coach et communication was great through out they even found a repair shop to have the coach towed A definite thumbs up to coach net.
Turned out was the alternator Would not let the tranny go into gear that fix was 1000.00
96 EVO
On 7/11/2024 at 9:57 AM, Tom Cherry said:
SO...downsize....go ALL THE WAY..., you could EVEN downsize all of them to 13.5K and have 40.5 K or 0.964. That would, with a reduced Charging Rate, I predict...even lay a small wager, solve your issue...
I'm actually thinking Gary Cole may be right, and the 13.5K and 15K Dometics share the same compressor, which would make that change pointless.
I'm seeing no difference in amp draw on my EMS panel whether I have the center 13.5's, or one of the 15K's running!
Bruce S
Your headlights are from a updated (which gives you the angel eye look) 2003 BMW 540i North American version (European versions treat the turn signal lamp with a clear or white bazel). The 2 white plastic adjusters are notorious for becoming brittle and breaking due to age. Up to about June 2002 these adjusters were easily replaced but then Hella/BMW changed their lens sealant to RTV which does not lend itself to allow baking of the assembly to loosen the covers and facilitate the adjuster's removal. There are date codes stamped into the housing to tell you the month/year of production. These adjusters both are primarily designed to elevate the lenses but must be both turned/rotated exactly the same amount . You would think that the inner adjuster is for side-to-side adjustment but that was not how Hella designed them. There are online videos/discussions on this issue. We just replaced our units this past winter. There are aftermarket LED assemblies that get mixed reviews but are definitely less expensive. Note that you can purchase a OEM Hella or a BMW unit which are exactly the same but the latter costs twice the price - just be sure you don't pick the Xenon version.
Jim McGarvie
1 hour ago, scottjo02 said:Thanks to each of you that helped me with your experience removing the gen. One last request for Jim McGarvie: would it be possible for you to take a photo of the square tube on your coach where it is near the fiberglass? That would help me understand the difference in how our coaches were made.
Thanks,
Scott
Do these help?
Coachnet vs AAA
David Pratt
I have had Coach Net for over twenty Years I have had to use their services several times and not once have I ever been disappointed. Never was there any cost out of my pocket. AAA, Camping World, are the worst and I cannot say you will find a better company than Coach Net for your Emergency Road Service, they have a lot of benefits.
jacwjames
This was posted on another site, like everything else on the internet it must be true!!
So back to trip planning
waterskier_1
I have had bad experiences with AAA.
- First, even though they claim to allow two truck to tow, if necessary, they only cover "TOWING", not "RECOVERY", as in if you are stuck off the road.
- Second, they don't have any Class 6 tow trucks in my area. I only wanted a tire replaced, and they don't replace tires, but offered to tow me to somewhere that does. Except they didn't have a truck capable of towing me in Colorado (so they said). They wanted to set an appointment for 12 days out, and would have to bring a truck in from Utah.
I still have AAA basic for my cars, but went with FMCA Roadside Rescue for the coach. I'm pleased with the company. I have only gotten about 4 tows in 40 years (not counting family members towing), and two of them were last January-February 2024. One dues to loss of fuel in the fuel lines due to running the generator and Aquahot for 4 weeks without starting the main engine - it somehow lost prime, and the second for parking in a resort lot that was 2-inches of gravel over uncompacted dirt, which turned to mud after 2 days of hard rain. In both cases, FMCA Roadside Assist had to call several different companies, because the companies lied about their capabilities. This was not FMCA's fault, and the promptly found replacements. They even ate one $500 call even though the company looked at my coach and decided they wouldn't touch it. I learned a lot last winter.
I've never used Coachnet, or Good Sams, so can't address them. But, right now, I'm quite satisfied with FMCA Roadside Assist. You do have to be a member of FMCA to purchase the Roadside Assist.
-Rick N.
Les Hurdle
Motorhomes are included. The CARB letter made it so [pun intended].
Even though the letter arrived this year [2024] I had to pay for last year as well !!
DVerstra
I've had CoachNet for more than 10 years. They have exceeded my expectations every time that I needed them. I broke down in Canada (faulty injector pump). When I called , they arranged for a tow to Kenora ONT. At Kenora , the Cummins shop could not handle the job so they towed me a total of 300 kilometers to Winnepeg. I never saw the bill (Glad I didn't have to pay for that one). Another time one of my ride height valve brackets broke free of the frame. I called them for a tow. The tech had me look over the bracket . They immediately sent Speedwrench to weld the bracket back to the frame. I was back on the road 3 hours later! I will always have Coachnet.
David Pratt
28 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said:I have had bad experiences with AAA.
- First, even though they claim to allow two truck to tow, if necessary, they only cover "TOWING", not "RECOVERY", as in if you are stuck off the road.
- Second, they don't have any Class 6 tow trucks in my area. I only wanted a tire replaced, and they don't replace tires, but offered to tow me to somewhere that does. Except they didn't have a truck capable of towing me in Colorado (so they said). They wanted to set an appointment for 12 days out, and would have to bring a truck in from Utah.
I still have AAA basic for my cars, but went with FMCA Roadside Rescue for the coach. I'm pleased with the company. I have only gotten about 4 tows in 40 years (not counting family members towing), and two of them were last January-February 2024. One dues to loss of fuel in the fuel lines due to running the generator and Aquahot for 4 weeks without starting the main engine - it somehow lost prime, and the second for parking in a resort lot that was 2-inches of gravel over uncompacted dirt, which turned to mud after 2 days of hard rain. In both cases, FMCA Roadside Assist had to call several different companies, because the companies lied about their capabilities. This was not FMCA's fault, and the promptly found replacements. They even ate one $500 call even though the company looked at my coach and decided they wouldn't touch it. I learned a lot last winter.
I've never used Coachnet, or Good Sams, so can't address them. But, right now, I'm quite satisfied with FMCA Roadside Assist. You do have to be a member of FMCA to purchase the Roadside Assist.
-Rick N.
If you look at the benefits of Coach Net, They cover all the vehicles you own. Coach Net does not send a tow truck that can't do the job.
waterskier_1
Just now, David Pratt said:If you look at the benefits of Coach Net, They cover all the vehicles you own. Coach Net does not send a tow truck that can't do the job.
FMCA doesn't intentionally send a tow truck that can't do the job either. But when the truck owner assures them he can, and sends a driver in a beat-up pickup with all the tools he owns in a plastic bucket, who has never seen a diesel before, and wants to pour gasoline in the air filter, it's not their fault. They have updated their files. Same goes with the towing companies - I insisted I personally talk to the driver before he was sent, so I could describe the situation, and special equipment needed, which he assured me he had, but when he showed up, he didn't. I don't fault FMCA for sending trucks when the drivers assured FMCA they could do the job. I am pleased that they continued, until after 11:00PM, looking for someone who could indeed do the job.
As I said before, I have no personal experience with Coachnet, and don't think it's a zero-sum industry. There can be more than one good company, it is not AAA for large RVs though.
-Rick N
jacwjames
My SIL was a AAA employee and she originally hooked us up when we didn't own an RV. Then we got the Class C and the one time we were towed with it it went OK. We then got our Class A and stuck with it and both time they did OK. The second time we had the Class A towed we were stuck at a Cracker Barrel on Memorial Day weekend, they sent a tow but he first came in his pickup truck to scope things out and said "he be back in an hour" but never showed up.
By that time it was too late to get a tow but fortunately Cracker Barrel said it was fine to stay. My wife loaded up the toad with the dogs and headed home, I stayed with the coach. I was on the phone with a AAA supervisor but they could not find another tow truck that day but scheduled one for the next. The supervisor did all she could do, really can't blame them when the first truck initially took the tow but then bailed.
The rig had holes punched in the radiator and all the coolant was drained out, so I rigged up a hose and pumped water from my fresh tank into the surge tank, luckily I had almost a full fresh water tank. Rig the hose, turned on the pump, and drove out of the lot to where the tow was. He hooked me up, pulled the drive shaft and got me to the Cummins shop and dropped the rig there. Can't complain about the second driver.
Not the best service but they got it done.
That being said, I have no loyalty to AAA and now that they've jacked their prices up quite a bit over the last couple year I will probably switch to Coachnet.
windsorbill06
I've seen that chart posted many times (IRV2, Facebook, etc) and lots of people misinterpret it. It can be confusing the way it's worded/printed.
But basically its saying that "out of state' registered private motorhomes are exempt from the CARB testing. It IS NOT saying that California registered motorhomes are exempt (they are not exempt). That's where some are reading it wrong.
Les Hurdle
So, as we see so often in CA. People register a vehicle out of state and use it in CA.
The United States huh !
dl_racing427
On my mechanical C8.3 it's easy enough to flip the Pacbrake toggle on the dash, turn on the key, and use the throttle linkage at the back to activate the solenoid when lubing it.
swmorgan
I hate being that new guy asking the dumb question! I searched the forum for quite some time with no luck.
I'm on my second motorhome....first time diesel owner.(2005 Monaco Diplomat 38 PDQ purchased just over a year ago) Had the check engine light come on while traveling parleys canyon yesterday between salt lake city and park city. Went away as soon as we started downhill again and remained off till be got to our camp site just outside of park city. I checked oil level once we got settled and it looks just a little low but still showing in the normal range so assuming possibly going up that grade it was thinking oil was low.
Here's my dumb question. For the life of me I can't find where to add oil. Nothing obvious to me on the rear hatch with the radiator. I've searched google, owners manual, and here and nothing so far. Hoping someone can point me in the right direction so I can add a little before heading home. Don't need a motor rebuild in my future.....had to replace the allison trans last summer!
DavidL
A "check engine" light usually has got nothing to do with oil level.
It is more typically something that has something to do with engine driveability / emissions.
You will need a proper scan tool to figure out why that light illuminated.
many error codes can reset if they "go away" for X number of minutes or restarts.
But if you believe the oil level is low, certainly add until mid full. don't overfill.
scottjo02
Yes Jim, that explains it. Interesting again how Monaco did so many things different for the same production year. I am now sure I can remove the gen if it becomes necessary. I will sleep better tonight!
Thanks again for all the information.
Scott
Ivan K
Just to be sure, 'check engine' light or 'warning' light?
Pduggs
As David said, buy a scan tool that will connect to your engine diagnostic port. My port is under the dash left of steering column. Without the scan tool to find the problem, you’re just guessing.
Look in your manual to find your engine diagnostic port location.
Oil level isn’t likely the problem.
I use this scan tool, but many are available.
2005 Cummins ISL 400HP Oil Fill Location? Feels like a dumb question
cbr046
Opening up the rear doors you should have an oil fill spout next to the dipstick on the right side, but it's high in the compartment and adding oil isn't easy. It's much easier to open the hatch in the back closet and fill directly into the valve cover.
Your Cummins owners manual should have a procedure on checking diagnostic codes, no scanner needed (although it would be easier).
Basically with ignition sw on but engine not running press and hold the diagnostic switch on the dash. Warning and Stop Engine lights will flash then Warning light will send a series of flashes for a 3 digit code. The code will repeat as long as you hold the switch. If you get a different code the second time around you have 2 trouble codes to check.
There are charts of Cummins diagnostic codes online but you're better off registering your engine serial # with 2005 Cummins ISL 400HP Oil Fill Location? Feels like a dumb question
Tom Cherry
OK,,,FWIW, we, the ataff are suggesting that something generic or really simple be approached this way.
Check your manual. I did….NOT there.
Google it. 2005 Cummins ISL 400 HP Oil Fill Location. BINGO….several hits and also the answer….see below.
Here is the information. If one strikes out on Google…on a simple question….search here….then no joy?? Post a new topic.
Photo below is from the SEARCH….and I chose IMAGES….a wealth of info and a googling trick I learned many years ago.
OK….from the first seardh…without clicking on IMAGES?…
2005 Cummins ISL 400HP Oil Fill Location? Feels like a dumb question
swmorgan
12 minutes ago, Ivan K said:Just to be sure, 'check engine' light or 'warning' light?
Check Engine and stop engine came on briefly. Both went away as soon as we started heading down the other side and never came back on.
Just Jim
I am not certain, but I think the Dip is a rear radiator coach, so I don't think that the oil fill is going to be visible from the back... at least not obvious. The top of the valve cover is an easy choice, but maybe another Dip owner can chime in.
Ivan K
16 minutes ago, swmorgan said:Check Engine and stop engine came on briefly. Both went away as soon as we started heading down the other side and never came back on.
Yep, that should leave a permanent code to read with a scanner, your manual may possibly have a reference to triggering a blink code, mine does but a different engine.
joefromperry
9 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:Followup to my post. Joe contacted me and had done two searches "headlights dim" or "aiming low". There were many hits and such, but the one topic that popped up and got my attention was the one with 46 posts and it was a general discussion of headlights and the consensus that adding a relay to get good voltage was the best or most logical step. Thanks to Joe for clearing that up and also for searching and reading.
The staff and as well as many other seasoned and experienced members...and that includes the new members that have joined, but obviously from their comments, even though they have a "low" post count...are great resources.
Bottom line...and this is from the Staff's trouble shooting experience or reading.
Voltage is the FIRST thing to check. There are way too many places for the headlights to have a voltage drop up stream.
There are either one or two relays, depending on the years and the VIP Smartwheel, if on the MH as well as two different versions of the Smartwheel, that can go bad.
There is a generic circuit that has the headlights. In ALL cases, the headlight switch is the first, but it can then feed another relay or it can also be integrated with the Smartwheel. AND THEN, it really gets complicated. For the sake of "Headlights -101", I have attached my Camelot print.
The circuit for the headlights gets contorted. BUT, if you go past all that and look at the HI/LO Dimmer....it FEEDS the headlights. Now, this may cause many, as it did me, eyes to ROLL and say "IM DOOMED" and get out the 4SALE sign (Junior Samples BR549)
BUT if you really want to learn and not get totally freaked out....look at the top center of the print. There is a Relay. BUT, look to the RIGHT. There is the DIMMER SWITCH. Bottom line, we know from literally thousands of posts over years that if you have even half or more voltage drop...then the headlights are gonna be DIM. SO, the last switch in the circuit....the DIMMER.
Then the logic... Use a NEW, 100% FULL Voltage (fused 20 A) with #12 wire and put in TWO relays. There are NO DOWNSTREAM Relays from the Dimmer.
DO THAT. They are gonna work the best they can. NOW, there is also a benefit. The DIMMER switch, which is a PITA to replace, will no LONGER pull the 17 or so amps. THAT varies. Most headlight bulbs are 55 watts. OK, if all FOUR headlight bulbs are ON that is 220 watts. Divided by 13 VAC (Charging) that is 17 amps.
SO, you add the relay. The DIMMER switch gets a rest. You have FULL voltage to the headlight.
THEN....start the rest of the trouble shooting or such.
NOW... many have installed driving lights or fog lights on their vehicles. The kits ALL COME WITH A RELAY. The additional lights will cause an OVERLOAD in any vehicle's headlight circuit. SO, the supplemental lights are direct powered from a relay.
THAT IS THE LOGIC behind "first step", give the headlights a FULL 12 (13) VDC...and the only way... a separate relay for each circuit...HIGH and LOW.
Then, the rest...aiming, or upgrading or such.
If you look at all the subsequent posts and the illustrations....it is obvious that an LED bulb is FATTER.
The comment about HID Projector bulbs is spot on. THEY ARE GREAT...but they also require a supplemental POWER Supply. I have messed with them and the bulbs are NOT LED upgradable. I helped my GS purchase a used 2012 Acura. The car was spotless. The headlights were GONE...the interior reflectors were TOAST.
OK...more than you will want to KNOW. The reflectors of ANY Headlight or Taillight are NOT painted on. They USED to be Electroplated with a hard, SHINY CHROME. That was driven out of business due to the rinse waters and such from the plating line. These lines and I put TWO IN when working were at least $1 to $2 Million and you needed at least a HALF MILLION $$ Water Treatment Plant...on SITE...to be able to discharge to a municipal sewer. I learned how to PLATE and TREAT out of necessity in 1974 and then knowing that process and chemical skills was something that I could NEVER escape, but it also was always in NEED...
The NEW headlight reflectors are VACUUM Metallized and UV Topcoated (some are...some aren't). Google that if you like...but that is the BRIGHTEST reflector you can get. My GD's reflectors were PITTED. We put in two new aftermarket Projector beam DOT assemblies and the world lit up.
That's sort of a followup based on the PM from Joe...who followed the guidelines.. sometimes you have to use combinations. I use the search function at least 5 times a day. I look for key words and also the one with the MOST replies and is the most current.
GOOD LUCK to JOE...this is a great topic and "rerunning it" helps teach other members...
Thank you, Tom, for going above and beyond to help me resolve my headlight issues. I shall attack it forthwith.
swmorgan
2 hours ago, Just Jim said:I am not certain, but I think the Dip is a rear radiator coach, so I don't think that the oil fill is going to be visible from the back... at least not obvious. The top of the valve cover is an easy choice, but maybe another Dip owner can chime in.
Yes...it is rear radiator. I pulled the cover in the bedroom and there isn't a cap anywhere on top of the valve cover. I'm stumped but I also may be a little dumb and just not seeing something right in front of my face! 🙂
tmw188
Can’t go wrong with CN. Called the first time with a dead battery in the car on a cold winter day. They just sent a guy in a van with a hot shot to jump it. Had the coach towed once since then, $1200 there was no pay now and get reimbursed. They covered it all.
Gary Cole
3 hours ago, swmorgan said:I can't find where to add oil
Sam my 05 400 ISL PDQ oil fill tube is accessed from the right side rear panel. The cap is stamped "engine oil fill".
The tube directly above it is for the transmission. Mine is labeled with a tag so that the 2 are not confused. Don't forget to rotate the caps clockwise after removal in order to compress the rubber seal.
Tom Cherry
9 minutes ago, swmorgan said:Yes...it is rear radiator. I pulled the cover in the bedroom and there isn't a cap anywhere on top of the valve cover. I'm stumped but I also may be a little dumb and just not seeing something right in front of my face! 🙂
Pictures would be great. Did the comments in the IRV2 make sense?
swmorgan
I think I found the answer searching another forum. This photo looks almost identical to mine. Yellow is the oil dipstick...the one above for the trans and larger one below for oil fill. Thanks all for the comments....I'm feeling a little more confident this evening after reading a little more.
2002 Monarch clearance lights
MarxRV
Update, when I put power to fuse #34 ...roadside fuse panel I can get the clearance lights to work, also when I put power to the relay pin 30 I get power at fuse #34 does this mean the relay isn't getting voltage from the head parking light switch?
windsorbill06
11 hours ago, B8mnJr said:Bill is correct… unfortunately when I built my garage I didn’t own an RV, so I used my neighbor’s Fleetwood for dimensions…he had a 39’ and I didn’t know most are just over 40’. I added a foot from his Fleetwood thinking I would be good, as I was also limited in the garage’s overall size by my cities restrictions.. I’m about 40’4” from inside the garage door to the back wall….
so my search has been for under 40’ .. and even at that, I won’t know for sure until I try and get it inside.anyone with a Signature Baroness that can actually measure it for me?
thanks!
Ben
City restrictions, and building codes, sometimes really puts a damper on the size, setbacks and heights. If I were to build my garage today (I built it in 2007), I'd have to put fire sprinklers in it and the city has implemented larger setbacks. At least no HOA to deal with.
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