Monacoers Daily News

Morning Jim,

don't suppose you could walk me through the steps to create an account and register, every time I try , I select create an account and it goes to a page with 4 windows, one is free, next one is $50 for year and so on, I only tried free and it doesn't go anywhere, Thanks

I also got mine from Amazon and green filling cap would not stay tight, I went and got a short piece of Rad hose and put a plug in the hose and threw the green cap away, just remove the plug to add coolent, havn't had an issue with it since, been to Flordia and back to Nova Scotia twice

All Great info, thanks everyone

10 hours ago, Benjamin said:

I don't see the "culprit" label either.  I wouldn't read too much into a hot solenoid/relay.  If it's on for long enough some of them will get hot even with no current.  Unplug from shore power and it should cool off or else it would drain the battery fast.  One thing to pay attention to, does the relay click when the key reaches "run" or "start"?  there should be both, but the start relay may be one of the small plastic cubes and not be loud enough to hear.  I would not use ohms for much of anything, test voltage under load in this situation. Ohms lies, voltage under load always tells the truth. 

Words of wisdom here.

Plugged into shoreline may be activating a battery combining solenoid and when on all the time can get too hot to touch. I am putting together a video on such a situation.

Ohms lies, voltage under load always tells the truth is a fantastic comment. And a digital voltmeter will lie to you if the circuit is not under load. 

23 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

Assume that you searched, FIRST, READ the topics and THEN posted.  If not, please do so in the future.

Key WORD search HEADLIGHT UPGRADE ...then Topics from Everywhere.  This is a GUIDELINES REQUIREMENT....prior to posting.

https://www.monacoers.org/search/?q=headlight upgrade&quick=1&type=forums_topic

Please read the various Topics.  Everything that has ever been written here about Headlights and how to do what is in there.

OK...FWIW...the last topic was in January...so that allows a NEW topic (typically the 6 month old rule applies...)

Bottom line.  There are THREE steps or options...in a nutshell.

Add separate HIGH and LOW Headlight Relays... OF COURSE...ADJUSTING yours up is assumed to be something you will do and check.  There are MANY charts and YouTube on that...

Convert to the Sylvania HIGHER POWER Halogen bulbs.  Many have done that.  That helps.

Convert to LED.  NOW...here is where many assume that MY 2000 Dynasty is just like the 2010 Diplomat.

THEY AIN'T.  The LED bulb ONLY work if you have the BULB socket exposed from the rear of the fixture.  My Camelot, and a lot of others, used a TOTALLY enclosed DOT approved HEADLIGHT ASSEMBLY.  The wiring goes from the Monaco Harness to the Headlight harness. The BULBS, for road protection, are recessed INSIDE the Fixture. That is where the 3 Wire terminal is.  I have UPGRADED a BUNCH of cars and trucks to LED for friends. 

The issue....  THE LED's are longer or fatter...(maybe that has changed)., but the HEAT SINK on the REAR will NOT WORK in my Camelot fixture.  You can't even get it IN...much less plug in the terminal.  Some CARS are that way...the designers of the older cars put the bulb terminal so close to the sheet metal that holds the radiator or whatever.  You DO NOT HAVE Rear Clearance.  I have seen those sheet metal panels cut with a Hole Saw to allow the bulb in.  I have installed some without pulling the Headlight assembly. I HAVE had to pull the assembly (the DOT fixture) just to get the long bulbs in.

SO...be cognizant that YOUR MH may have constraints.  You will need to LOOK and be aware that the LED's are gonna be longer. The Heat Sink can't be buried...the bulbs will fail.

NOW...the NEXT thing...and some try this first.  You ADD a Relay to the LOW and HIGH beam wiring.  Your headlight switch actually runs THROUGH the Dimmer Stalk on the steering Column. If the voltage is low coming in...it gets LOWER....SO...ake the HIGH BEAM and LOW BEAM output...feed that into Terminals 85 and 86 of a 20 Amp BOSCH relay.  That then controls the ON and OFF of the Headlights.  You then take a #12 Stranded wire, with an INLINE fuse, and run it from the Chassis Stud to Terminal 30 of the Relay. Then you run Terminal 87 to the LOW beam circuit...and do the same for the HIGH Beam. This gives you NO VOLTAGE DROP.  The headlights will be BRIGHTER.  How MUCH...depends on the voltage drops and assumes NO High Resistance connections. 

You have to ORDER relay Sockets (Pigtails) with #12 WIRING.  Use a #16...IT WILL NOT carry enough AMPS.  Folks, the hard way, learned this.  THEN they upgraded to the #12 wire and got brighter headlights.

OK...then comes the LED conversion. LED's are POLARITY sensitive.  You can USUALLY swap the terminals 180 degrees....ALL the Halogen bulb are polarized or go on only ONE WAY.  Common misfortune...They BULBS don't COME ON...Sent them back...new ones the same.  NOPE...INSTRUCTIONS SAY..  NO ON...SWAP or REVERSE the PLUG.  NOW... again...if you can NOT reverse the terminal due to clearance issues behind the bulb...you do it UPSTREAM.  You find the GROUND for that circuit. REVERSE.  The Ground Wire is NOW the Positive...Relay is FINE...nothing to change there...

That's my synopsis.  Frankly, I do NOT DRIVE at NIGHT.  I have traded cars for LED headlights.  I upgraded my Yukon.  It is NIGHT and DAY difference.

TIP..  After you install the LED's , figure out WHICH adjustment is UP/DOWN.  Give the UP a quarter turn.  DRIVE IT.  I never saw much change in the LED's until I had gone maybe 2 turns in the UP direction.  BUT, OK...am I blinding folks?  Drove each adjustment for maybe a week....almost an hour every night on local roads.  NO FLASH FLASH at me.  Kept going until I was PLEASED...as to my NEW headlights.  Nobody every flashed me or fired a warning shot (LOL...it DOES HAPPEN).  SO, I am an advocate of LED upgrade.

BUT, it is NOT possible on mine.  If I EVER did...I would install a HIGH and LOW LED light bar...

NOW...again...there will be many examples, probably given here.  Just be aware that they all fall into the above. The individual DOT headlight assembly and WHAT is behind it and how it is mounted is the key.  GO read and also look at yours or their pictures..  Too many folks have told 2008 and up Camelot members to just CONVERT to LED.  When the members asked how...they say...SIMPLE change the Bulbs.  BUT, now you know...THERE AIN'T ROOM.

Good Luck.  I am interested to see if there are some new tricks....In some models...simple, way easier that cars or trucks that I have done.  In my Camelot...HELLO LIGHT BAR... BUT, the Relay WILL, along with the Sylvania Bulbs provide improvement...

Followup to my post.  Joe contacted me and had done two searches "headlights dim" or "aiming low". There were many hits and such, but the one topic that popped up and got my attention was the one with 46 posts and it was a general discussion of headlights and the consensus that adding a relay to get good voltage was the best or most logical step.  Thanks to Joe for clearing that up and also for searching and reading.

The staff and as well as many other seasoned and experienced members...and that includes the new members that have joined, but obviously from their comments, even though they have a "low" post count...are great resources. 

Bottom line...and this is from the Staff's trouble shooting experience or reading.

Voltage is the FIRST thing to check.  There are way too many places for the headlights to have a voltage drop up stream.

There are either one or two relays, depending on the years and the VIP Smartwheel, if on the MH as well as two different versions of the Smartwheel, that can go bad.

There is a generic circuit that has the headlights. In ALL cases, the headlight switch is the first, but it can then feed another relay or it can also be integrated with the Smartwheel. AND THEN, it really gets complicated. For the sake of "Headlights -101", I have attached my Camelot print.  

The circuit for the headlights gets contorted.  BUT, if you go past all that and look at the HI/LO Dimmer....it FEEDS the headlights. Now, this may cause many, as it did me, eyes to ROLL and say "IM DOOMED" and get out the 4SALE sign (Junior Samples  BR549)

BUT if you really want to learn and not get totally freaked out....look at the top center of the print. There is a Relay.  BUT, look to the RIGHT.  There is the DIMMER SWITCH.  Bottom line, we know from literally thousands of posts over years that if you have even half or more voltage drop...then the headlights are gonna be DIM.  SO, the last switch in the circuit....the DIMMER.  

Then the logic...  Use a NEW, 100% FULL Voltage (fused 20 A) with  #12 wire and put in TWO relays. There are NO DOWNSTREAM Relays from the Dimmer.

DO THAT.  They are gonna work the best they can.  NOW, there is also a benefit. The DIMMER switch, which is a PITA to replace, will no LONGER pull the 17 or so amps.  THAT varies. Most headlight bulbs are 55 watts.  OK, if all FOUR headlight bulbs are ON that is 220 watts.  Divided by 13 VAC (Charging) that is 17 amps.

SO, you add the relay. The DIMMER switch gets a rest. You have FULL voltage to the headlight.

THEN....start the rest of the trouble shooting or such.

NOW...  many have installed driving lights or fog lights on their vehicles. The kits ALL COME WITH A RELAY. The additional lights will cause an OVERLOAD in any vehicle's headlight circuit. SO, the supplemental lights are direct powered from a relay.

THAT IS THE LOGIC behind "first step", give the headlights a FULL 12 (13) VDC...and the only way... a separate relay for each circuit...HIGH and LOW.

Then, the rest...aiming, or upgrading or such.

If you look at all the subsequent posts and the illustrations....it is obvious that an LED bulb is FATTER.

The comment about HID Projector bulbs is spot on.  THEY ARE GREAT...but they also require a supplemental POWER Supply.  I have messed with them and the bulbs are NOT LED upgradable. I helped my GS purchase a used 2012 Acura. The car was spotless. The headlights were GONE...the interior reflectors were TOAST.

OK...more than you will want to KNOW.  The reflectors of ANY Headlight or Taillight are NOT painted on.  They USED to be Electroplated with a hard, SHINY CHROME. That was driven out of business due to the rinse waters and such from the plating line. These lines and I put TWO IN when working were at least $1 to $2 Million and you needed at least a HALF MILLION $$ Water Treatment Plant...on SITE...to be able to discharge to a municipal sewer. I learned how to PLATE and TREAT out of necessity in 1974 and then knowing that process and chemical skills was something that I could NEVER escape, but it also was always in NEED...

The NEW headlight reflectors are VACUUM Metallized and UV Topcoated (some are...some aren't). Google that if you like...but that is the BRIGHTEST reflector you can get. My GD's reflectors were PITTED.  We put in two new aftermarket Projector beam DOT assemblies and the world lit up.

That's sort of a followup based on the PM from Joe...who followed the guidelines..  sometimes you have to use combinations. I use the search function at least 5 times a day.  I look for key words and also the one with the MOST replies and is the most current.

GOOD LUCK to JOE...this is a great topic and "rerunning it" helps teach other members...

Headlights and Fog lights.pdf

12 hours ago, rpasetto said:

I remember taking out a Norcold 1200... removing (prying?) the plastic trim around it exposed screws, if I recall.  However on the Dometic NDA 402 there looks like the exterior trim piece wraps around behind the doors and, somehow?  is fastened to the case of the refer.  Any suggestions on how to pry the trim away to expose the screws... if there are any.  Also where else it is fastened in?

The Dometic slides OUT.  You push it from behind or pull it out.  There is NOT, at least on mine, any MONACO facade.  Just an opening. Then you take off the doors.  Then get it out (window recommended).  Bring in the new one...doors OFF...  

Remove the insulation or the walls or if it was on the Dometic...it is GONE.  Add the vertical strip...my "interior cabinet" had one...NO REASON..but it was what made mine WORK with thy custom designed brackets. The installer said that the shop (it was a BIG shop...maybe 30 bays) was going to do this from now on and they took pictures and a video.

They were NOT aware of the need to INSULATE and close off the outside access panels.

As long as you can SLIDE OUT or pull or get the Dometic out....go from there.

YES...been there... MEASURED....designed the holding system....drew up a sketch....told the installer to use this..but if there was a better way...do it.

It worked...the only issue was they did NOT cut the shelf that the Dometic was on correctly. They should have realized to take it all the way back to the outer wall. I saw that...and just fixed it myself.

Mornin Paule, so from some one working in the field more than i want to i see more than my share of solinoid issues. What i can tell you is that shinny one labled 12V appears to to be a intermintet type, there designation is they can not handle long turn use. If left on the case will get so hot you cant touch them. In the world of parts most “parts people” today have no clue what your wanting. Nowdays it pays to know what you want, and evenknow what you have when you get it. I use amazon alot cause of out parts people here, an because of my experience i have learned if the one i trust the most (cole hersee) is out of stock then what ever i get in its place, before i install it i just connect 12V to it (the little stud an ground) an let it sit for a few minutets. If the case gets soo hot you cant handle it you have a intermintet style, which predomently should only be used on start circuits. One way to tell your system is to connect a volt meter to the little wire and your other probe to ground, then just turn key to on, look at your meter, does it show battery volts? If it does then the application is requiring a continuous duty type solenoid. 
one last thing, i had a 1998 come in customer complaint was it wont turn over with the key, but if he jumpered the solinoid it would, long story, it ended up i found a immobilizer type of alarm mounted inside the center drawer in the dash, i had to take the drawer out to get to it. It finally 💩the bed so i just had to bypass the crank circuit wires an then it would start. Sorry for no pic 

If it were me I'd try giving the starter solenoid (on the starter itself) a gentle but firm whack with a large wrench to see if that common quick-fix does the trick. If it does, it's your starter. Then I'd check the power at the starter, and work backwards from there if there wasn't any/sufficient.

I think your lights are the BMW 5 series? If so they are the same as the 2000-2005 Dynasty.  The lights in my 2000 Dynasty we jammed so tight in the front cap I could never get them adjusted properly.  Monaco just had them wedged in pointed at the ground. It would need a lot of fiberglass grinding to relocate them properly. I always ran them on high beam never bothered and I could see they were actually turned on. I never got to that point I upgraded to a newer coach. I think some driving lights like Dick Bell did would be the easiest and most cost effective to get some decent light. Just get them aimed so they do not bother oncoming traffic and you are fine. 

I’m starting from the basics….and also what limited resources we have.  Odds are….and this appears to be logical….there is a set of prints in the files. They are for a DYNASTY…but based on all i think I know and others….the Dynasty and Windsor main chassis and house was close…so let’s go there.

DOWNLOAD THIS

OK…to your point.  Throwing money and guessing ain’t the way.

There are at least TWO Solenoids that I know (ok not betting the family fortune).  
 

First….the print days IGNITION Solenoid.  That one is easy to find.  Out your VOM on one….choose whichever.  Put on the two small coil wires.  Then turn on the ignition.  NO COIL POWER….keep searching.  From the print, you should be able to locate it.  That supplies CHASSIS power to the entire charging and chassis system….headlights and all the switches and the whole mess.

Now there will ALSO be a BOOST soleoind.  Key ON….  Then have your son push the BATT BOOST or BOOST switch.  There will THEN be power to that solenoid.  You can FEEL it engage. He can click it on and off (spring loaded momentary contact switch).  That connects the HOUSE and CHASSIS banks….my GUT and I know that the WR stands for White Rodgers is probably the new one.  OPPS!!  MYSTERY.  The plate data is confusing.  Ordinarily that is a 100 AMP solenoid.

It you use the SEARCH BOX in the upper right….use WHITE RODGERS or WHITE or RODGERS.  Then click on Everywhere….then select TOPICS.  There are countless posts…and many have the proper PN.  I’d google the WR PN on yours.  If the specs are NOT 12VDC CONTINUOUS 100A, then the person that put it in goofed and thought there was only ONE white rodgers solenoid and bought it.  IT DOES HAPPEN….way to OFTEN.  I can fix it.  I took it out. I saw one that looked like it. I ordered it. IT DON’T WORK….  Did you read and understand???

Now…there is probably one MORE.  IF you have a BATTERY CUTOFF switch on the left side as you come in…then you have the SALESMAN solenoid.  Read the domestic electrical system chapter in the manual.  Hope you have read that and the chassis. MUCH INFO THERE.

So, if you have that switch, there is another solenoid.  It is different. It is a LATCHING style.  There will be, typically one or two auto type fuse holders in the plastic housing.  Have your son push it down….the solenoid will click.  Keep doing this.  There is NO coil voltage when the switch is in the center spring loaded position.  Up latches in the SOLENOID ON.  Down (momentarily) latches it OFF.

Exhaust Manifold Options
jacwjames 20 hours ago