Monacoers Daily News

I am not surprised you found screws and a busted drill bit in the belt line. Over the years I have seen some pretty bad work performed by service centers. When I started using SS rivets years ago, I thought it would catch on with other service centers. It didn't. I had customers coming in with popped belt lines that were screwed in by some technician. One of our members brought his coach to me and he had paid 2 service centers in the past to reattach his beltlines. They used screws and both times the beltline failed.

Out of the hundreds of beltlines I have repaired, I have never had a failure. SS rivets are the answer. I just wished other technicians would adopt that process.

9 hours ago, Scotty Hutto said:

I’ve used RV Pricing and Appraisals before and was very pleased with the information provided.  They keep a database of actual selling prices (both private sale from tax records and dealers) and can give you a very close estimate. 

Random topic...but also states the DANGERS of dealing with large and high pressure tires.
Jetjockey 21 hours ago

Flew the bravo some years ago never knew that.

Belt Line Repair
Chargerman 21 hours ago

Almost all of the failed screws on my coach or on the front 10-15 feet. I’m guessing part of the cause of the failure is due to chassis twist over the years. Did you see similar failures Chris?

Random topic...but also states the DANGERS of dealing with large and high pressure tires.
klcdenver 21 hours ago

Something else strange was when utilizing the gravel kit it required 2 pilots. One had to monitor a idiot light to make sure the wheel was spinning.

Another Newbie here, "new" 2007 Signature Owner
amphi_sc 20 hours ago

I'm late to this party.  Noting that the original poster (RLM777) has an '07 45' Signature it may be very close to my '07 45' Patriot Thunder.  I also have 2 battery bays with three trays in total.  The factory setup and wiring diagram options show rear tray and the upper tray in the next bay were for four Lifeline gpl-4gl house batteries... 2 on each tray.  The lower tray had four Lifeline gpl-1400t starting batteries.  (And those original batteries were in it when I purchased our used coach many moons ago....but since then replaced them all once keeping with the Lifelines.  BTW, Centex Batteries is about an hour away from my Texas home and has a great price on their Aledo Tx warehouse pickup of Lifeline batteries ... no shipping costs or associated hassles.)

My wiring diagrams show an optional setup for an all electric coach using four of the larger Lifeline gpl-8dl batteries for the house instead, but I have the propane stove so the factory used the 4dls on mine.

Lithium may be great for some but I'd have a lot of electrical stuff to replace to switch so I may well stay with the Lifelines when I probably will have to replace them again in a couple more years.  If my original Magnum inverter goes TU in the mean time I could rethink all the options.

Weren't the '07 Sig and '07 PT both from the West coast plant?  I know I have a lot of other things in common with a Sig.

Random topic...but also states the DANGERS of dealing with large and high pressure tires.
Steve P 20 hours ago

I had a 2 piece wheel separate while inflating the tire on a small garden cart recently (problem seems to have been rusted fasteners).  The noise was cannon-like, and the wheel halves bounced around the corner of the garage like ricocheting bullets.  At some point my hand got in the way and the fingernail on my middle finger got smashed... still healing 3 months later.  My guardian angels may not have fared so well...  All this with the pressure regulator set to 28 lbs (under the recommended pressure) .  I'm now using screw-on extension hoses for all airing up, and standing well clear, regardless of pressure or tire size.

As the saying goes, "Good judgment comes from experience, unfortunately experience often comes from bad judgment".

Smart EMS controller
Rick Chambers 20 hours ago

23 hours ago, cbr046 said:

Why not replace the relay (or pc board traces) on the board?  Better yet, get your EE brother in law to do it 😄

- bob

He said he might be able to replace the relay, he said he wants to look at it.  However, I am thinking I might just replace the whole board since one has failed, others will probably follow at the most inconvenient time.

Another Newbie here, "new" 2007 Signature Owner
Ivylog 19 hours ago

My total expense going to Lithium (besides the batteries) is less than $200. With Lithium batteries now in the $2/AH range, I question why you wouldn’t go Lithium.

The AGM2 setting in our inverter/chargers does an adequate job of charging Lithiums… does a good job if on shore power for extended periods. I’d already spent the $200 is for an additional 100A charger (power it off the block heater outlet) to reduce my generator runtime.

I’m not the only person who hasn’t added a DC-DC current limiter to protect the alternator… mine doesn’t overheat with 700+ AH of Lithiums .

OK....CONFESSIONS of a QUICK Pressure Pro TPMS Install....and NOW...it is CORRECT. WOW....What a difference!
Dr4Film 19 hours ago

I was wondering how long it would take you to finally move the antenna from the front to the rear just in front of the drive axle. Great job.

I have been ecstatic with the Pressure Pro Pulse TPMS once I got the 35 foot coaxial antenna installed. I have never been without a signal from all 12 tires while towing my Saturn Vue.

 

Another Newbie here, "new" 2007 Signature Owner
Tom Cherry 19 hours ago

21 hours ago, Malewis11 said:

All good points. Thanks for the input. I’m about to tackle it and clean up the area but one more question. Is there any worry about removing the power from the ECM? 

OK..this is how it will work.  
 

Chassis.  Turn off Disconnect.  Remove the Jumpers….they will be, assuming you have TWO batteries in parallel, POS - POS & NEG - NEG.  Pull the NEG first. PROBABLY have only one MAIN NEG….it varies. If one battery has NO Main NEG cable….but a Jumper to the other…. PULL that first on the battery with NO Main cable.  Then do the NEG on the other one.  If you are pulling and cleaning or surface prepping the trays.  Rustoleum primer and Bed Liner top coats (3…LOL) are the most commonly used.  POR-15 is the gold standard. I have 11 years on my Rustileum….

As to the ECM and TCM.  When you put BACK on the NEG….first OFF and last ON, you will get a small spark. Normal.  Folks do not usually chase down and disconnect individually.  The ECM has a memory…. The TCM will “reset” to factory.  That means all the “learned” habits are gone.  In REALITY, members have paid Allison to “fix the sluggish shifts”…to do just that….power down and wait 5 minutes….then drive.  The Allison always “learns”.  So if someone had taught it to be “Gramma going to church….at age 95”….then resetting and letting it start from scratch is good. Allison recommends that, after warmup, at least every month or so…from a stoplight or such…do a DRAG RACER stomp. We have had members that babied them so much….and not even liking the “cruise resume”, that they were a PITA and annoying to drive.  The above was “a confession” from a member at a Gathering and the Allison rep chuckled.

NOW.  Along those lines.  It is RECOMMENDED that you have a tech, with the Cummins Insight software and TRAINED….download the complete setup and history of the ECM, this is like a time capsule. @Frank McElroy did mine and chided me for hitting 81 MPH down a grade before I put on the exhaust brake and killed the cruise. He has posted what to ask for and what is in the History file. If you have that…then a new or refurbished ECM can be easily installed….  

The Allison TCM supposedly has codes or such written down in programming it.  An Allison dealer can download the setup and shift points…. Typically half to an hour’s shop labor will be charged. If you find a facility that is certified in both…cheaper.

Same deal for House.  Odds are…you inverter is on the House switch.  The later Magnums were fused directly…and turning OFF the disconnect didn’t kill them.  You WILL get a spark from the propane and CO detector…unless you have the rare bird “alarm defeat” switch on a board.

That’s it.

OK....CONFESSIONS of a QUICK Pressure Pro TPMS Install....and NOW...it is CORRECT. WOW....What a difference!
Tom Cherry 19 hours ago

16 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

I was wondering how long it would take you to finally move the antenna from the front to the rear just in front of the drive axle. Great job.

I have been ecstatic with the Pressure Pro Pulse TPMS once I got the 35 foot coaxial antenna installed. I have never been without a signal from all 12 tires while towing my Saturn Vue.

 

Wish I had done it earlier.  My old BODY was not happy doing the “Live Fire Survival” routine….  I was black from the elbows on down.  The STUPID rear brake lines were almost overlapping in the center and positioning the drill was a task…requiring 3 hands.  Recommend a NUT Driver bit WITH the magnet.  But is is done…and I’m happy.

ONE POINT…since the air bags are inflated UP FRONT for access to FULL height…then only a little slack needs to be left.  Had to think about that….

Another Newbie here, "new" 2007 Signature Owner
Tom Cherry 19 hours ago

29 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

My total expense going to Lithium (besides the batteries) is less than $200. With Lithium batteries now in the $2/AH range, I question why you wouldn’t go Lithium.

The AGM2 setting in our inverter/chargers does an adequate job of charging Lithiums… does a good job if on shore power for extended periods. I’d already spent the $200 is for an additional 100A charger (power it off the block heater outlet) to reduce my generator runtime.

I’m not the only person who hasn’t added a DC-DC current limiter to protect the alternator… mine doesn’t overheat with 700+ AH of Lithiums .

MY ONLY Caveat.  HISTORY. Yes, there is supposedly a custom setting, if you buy a new remote, for your 08 Magnum. YES…it probably will work.

BUT…based on being involved with about every Magnum post here since the new site came up, in the past 18 months of so, we have had TWICE (my own memory and ability to catalog such) the failures of Magnums….than in the prior period.  There is an assignable and logical and known cause.  The FET’s are bedded in a Thermal Conductive Heat Sink compound when installed.  Based on the age and also the KNOWN life span or deterioration of the compounds….it is deteriorating at a faster rate.  It is NOW crystalizing.  The ability to continue to do a 100% thermal or heat transfer is compromised.  That is leading to failures.  Ain’t NO fixing it, unless you psosses the knowledge and skills and can use a Hot Air soldering/desoldering tool.  You can’t, I’ve been told, go in and use a precision low wattage soldering station iron and remove them…and replace the compound.  NOW we do have 2 that could do this….

BUT…for all practical purposes….the useful life of your Magnum is looming.  SO….is it worth the risk of a failure which will destroy the Li Batteries…just to say…I DID IT?

NOW…even MORE of an issue…and first hand experience…as well as helping at least 10 others.  The remotes fail quicker than the Inverters. They LOSE your setup.  They MODIFY the setup.  BEEN THERE.  Ran tests for Magnum for at least a month…as they were interested and wanted feedback.  The AMP Hours would change.  The charging rate would change.  Sometimes you couldn’t even program…and had to disconnect the remote…do a soft reset….all the defaults worked….the built in…but that is for a 450 AH FLA and 90% Charge and such.  Then, you could use the remote….checked the program a few days later…after a few SHORE to Inverting cycles.  BINGO…remote went batty.

At rhe very LEAST, replace the REMOTE….moe custom setup options.  All covered in the Magnum HOW TO file.

Personally, I doubt I need Lithiums.  I get 8 or so years from my Trojans.  That is less than $100 per year.  Look at the potential life cycle of the Lithiums and do the math.  That is something that I have not done.  It may be cost effective….but if you add in the new Victron or whatever and other stuff?.? Maybe a 50 year payback….seriously what are the effective life spans of Lithiums with OPTIMUM and proper installs?

I make decisions based on cost and payback…and $100 per year for FLA (Trojan of course) is hard to beat..  AGM will fail quicker.  WHY ….believing the NO MAINTENANCE hype.  Trojan says THEY have to be exercisedjust as often as FLA and the charging profile is more critical….therefore, most don’t get the life expectancy…. 
 

One needs to know the facts and also the costs as well as accept that a 20 YO charger is gonna fail…soon….

Smart EMS controller
Tom Cherry 18 hours ago

Without any feedback and the elementary troubleshooting requested….??  Simple thing such as IS THERE 120 VAC input COMING INTO the Front HVAC J-Box.  This is a guessing game and the “usual suspect” is the EMS. 

In addition, it appears, from the posts, that there was NO RESET…as required, performed on either occasions.  This is mandatory. A “corrupted” power ON to the thermostat WITHOUT a reset has been known to have all sorts of UNEXPLAINED events….and another zone can “get involved.  That’s why Dometic flatly and plainly states thaf you MUST preform the reaet after any cleaning or unplugging or power interruptions

The Point…it is FUTILE to “guess” and then order a new board…until the EMS has been tested. That has been posted, repeatedly, and requested.  As well as the simple steps and order….

YES. Members HAVE supposedly pulled the relay and replaced it.  Members have bypassed the Front relay.  If the relay is the only issue, then the EMS will quickly shed the 2nd and 3rd tiers.  The front AC is the last to go. The common mistake….GOTTA RUN TWO AC’s on 30Amp….even on Genny, folks overload the neutral and damage things,

Until there is hard data and proper troubleshooting and feedback….this topic is basically “DEAD IN THE WATER”. Totally guesswork!

Ordering and installing a new board with nothing but a HUNCH and some tripe internet garbage ….MIGHT work….but we have been down this path before  on this and many other issues….NEW hardware and not finding the real source doesn’t work,

BUT, our charter is to provide help and also assist and provide the correct troubleshooting techniques…and we have many members that do such…..

We need feedback.

Norcold 1200LRIM s/n 8206262 worked when last parked in 2020; now shows no signs of life
RNMCBR 17 hours ago

It’s impossible to have an exchange of ideas about troubleshooting a Norcold without it getting hijacked into a charged up advocacy for residential refrigerators. 

I appreciate all the objective input on converting but wish it were posted in a separate thread. I will probably install some version of mechanical refrigeration before long so I’m interested in hearing about all the options. I just get frustrated when a troubleshooting exchange gets off topic. 
I probably shouldn’t react this way but it makes me reluctant to contribute to the forum. 
 

 

Norcold 1200LRIM s/n 8206262 worked when last parked in 2020; now shows no signs of life
pulsarjab 16 hours ago

33 minutes ago, RNMCBR said:

It’s impossible to have an exchange of ideas about troubleshooting a Norcold without it getting hijacked into a charged up advocacy for residential refrigerators. 

I appreciate all the objective input on converting but wish it were posted in a separate thread. I will probably install some version of mechanical refrigeration before long so I’m interested in hearing about all the options. I just get frustrated when a troubleshooting exchange gets off topic. 
I probably shouldn’t react this way but it makes me reluctant to contribute to the forum. 
 

 

The issue for me is I could not let this situation go by without informing the individual of the inexpensive way to fix the issue. They had not researched previous post where I detailed the replacement and were not aware of the opportunity. I would feel guilty if a life were lost because I sat ideally by while they continue to patch a known fire hazard. As I stated, I too had done patches for many years.

We all have experiences that are extremely useful and sharing is the only way for me to make the best decision. And now it seems you and I have hijacked this thread.

Monaco Dynasty Emblem Replacement
Ken Thompson 13 hours ago

23 hours ago, Georgia Mike said:

Just reviving this post to anyone out there that wants Dynasty emblems to send an email to Ken Thompson. We need more people 

Mike, do I have you on the list? Mike Dell?

Magnum ME2012 MSW Inverter/Charger 2000w-100a
Bobkat11208 12 hours ago

I replaced this with a new 3000w Victron Multi Plus Inverter/Charger.  It works fine/as expected and includes all manuals.  Is there any interest?  Will not part out.  Going for at least ~$600 on eBay.  Asking $500 plus shipping. I also have the older style ME-50 remote with 3 buttons (shore, setup, tech) if interested for an additional $50 + shipping, does not include cable as I am using it in the Victron display.  

Monaco Dynasty Emblem Replacement
Ken Thompson 12 hours ago

I think, if no one backs out, I have enough people wanting Monaco Dynasty polished stainless steel emblems to place an order. Hopefully this doesn’t go against the “monacoers rules”, but below is a list of the people who I have on my list that want 3 emblems.

Tommy White, Mike Dell, Gary Hildreth, Tom Pitchford, Cyndee and Bill Combs, Ron Naro,  Duffer 51

Tim Kirk wants 1 emblem

If, for some reason I don’t have you on my list, please email me at ken@kensrvservice.com with your contact info. Please including a physical address so I can get you a shipping estimate. Don’t forget to tell me how many you would like. 
 

The more I can order the cheaper they will be. I am not doing this for profit, just trying to help other Dynasty owners get new, better quality emblems.

Norcold 1200LRIM s/n 8206262 worked when last parked in 2020; now shows no signs of life
Tom Cherry 12 hours ago

From the staff and Moderation standpoint, we usually skim or read every post…. Several reasons.  From not going down a path from an inverter issue morphs into an air leak….which happens and as our membership has grown, is NOW a bit “more of an issue”.

 Next is for the accuracy as well as the completeness of some of fhe troubleshooting and suggestions,  This is to ensure that someone, seemingly knowledgeable, may have made an assumption and then posts a comment about a 2001 Dynasty thinking that a 2008 has the same component or the same circuit.  Also, telling a member yo find the solenoid with two yellow and purple wires and splice them. That is the feedback we get when the recommendations do not pertain or even relate to the issue.

Finally….personal safety issues.  Right, wrong or indifferent the Norcold falls into a “major concern” issue.  Too many times the response may be…cut open the box and splice the wires.  There is a sister topic on Norcold right now and a discussion of how to make it work using alternative means when the recall box has, IIRC, shut down.  

So….yes….it is frustrating when the most common solution is to remove and replace….but trying to parse and delete or hide or edit the comments is impossible.

Next up….is the fact that there is a plethora of information in our files on the Norcold.  Documents like the service manual….wishfully asked for early on.  The new topic guidelines call for a SEARCH of the subject.  If that had been done, then this is the result for FILES.

https://www.monacoers.org/search/?q=Norcold&quick=1&type=downloads_fill

The main Norcold file has 5 doc….and one is the 67 page service manual.

Second….if the search phrase Norcold Repair had been executed and used Topics….then ALL of the past info and troubleshooting tips would have been found.  It does take time to scan and read them…but as one poster pointed out, there was a solution….posted PRIOR…that he felt was germane.

The “hijacking” frustrations are noted…but not following the new topic guidelines is also a frustration….for the Staff and many experienced and mega resource contributors.

Lets move on.  Please download the manual.  Please do the Topic Search. Please, to all members, stay focused….but when the personal safety and “frustration” of any gas refrigeration pops up….the common….I daresay 90% solution….is remove and usually a Res Refer is the Choice….THANKS

Has anyone REPLACED a Dometic NDA 1402
Ron Shantos 12 hours ago

After digesting all this is information I am thinking EITHER a 120V or a 12 Volt??  I really would like the 120 volt residential option.  Here is how we use our Beaver Contessa.

1. We have NEVER boondocked.

2. We use the RV 4 or 5 times a year for typical 2 week trips.

3. We have 4 6 volt batteries on the coach side with a Magnum ME2012 inverter.

4. We do NOT need an ice maker.

5. We are always connected to 120 Volts and are connected to 120 at least two days before a trip at our house.

 

So, I am leaning toward the 120 volt residential unit UNLESS I am missing something??  Feedback appreciated. 

Solar panels system, where to run wires down to battery?
folivier 11 hours ago

2006 Monaco Monarch SE with single slide, V10. I ordered a 400 watt Renogy solar panel system (4 panels). Looking for the best way to run the 10 gauge wires down to the battery bay which is behind the passenger side rear wheels. The fridge is 2 compartments in front of the rear wheels so if I go down the fridge vent I'll have to go along the frame to get behind the wheels. Another option is through the rear cap. The rear inside wall ends about 8" before the rear cap so there should be plenty room to pass wires. Is there anything that would be in the rear cap?

There is no inverter so that'll be my next question on how and where to hook that into the 120 vac system. I'll install the inverter next to the solar controller to keep that cable run short. I'll be keeping the 2 6 vdc golf cart batteries and possibly adding 2 more. I've done LiFePO4 systems on other coaches but won't for this one. This is for an Alaska trip next summer. We went in 2019 in a 36' Foretravel where I had 300 amphours of LiFePO4 + 400 watts solar and it worked great.  I'm planning on a 2000 watt Renogy inverter with 4000 watt peak and using it for short microwave use, coffee pot, hair dryer, and tv. Thoughts on where to wire the inverter into the 120 vac system?  At the transfer switch?  At the breaker panel which is above the bed?  

Slide manufacturer
Paul J A 11 hours ago

Do you mean the actual slide "box"/ Or the various power systems for Extending and retracting the slide??

Solar panels system, where to run wires down to battery?
JohnC3 11 hours ago

The 2 places I saw when researching it were the roof refridge vent (if you have one) or the plumbing stack. I used the fridge vent and ran the wires down behind the fridge close to the exterior wall.

Hope it helps,

John

Need reliable RV shop around Eugene,Oregon that does refrigerator swap outs
Knight 40 PLQ 11 hours ago

We are fulltime and I don't trust the Norcold original to our 2006 Monaco even though its working now, I want to go residential and need to know a shop in the Eugene,Oregon area, Thanks, Tim

Need reliable RV shop around Eugene,Oregon that does refrigerator swap outs
Chad A 10 hours ago

There a bunch of shops in Coburg and Junction city. A lot of the shops have employees that built these things before the shut down. 
 

Shop around and find one that fits your budget and timeline. 
 

I have used premier RV. Work was done well but they are getting very expensive, but aren’t they all. I did my own swap because I am cheap and could do it. 

Solar panels system, where to run wires down to battery?
folivier 10 hours ago

I looked up into the rear cap, there is a divider but it appears to be hollow. Good thing about it is any leaks will not get into inside of coach.

Need reliable RV shop around Eugene,Oregon that does refrigerator swap outs
Warren B 10 hours ago

Elite Repair and Renovation. (541) 995-4767   Eric, Mark and Marty. Former Monaco employees in Coburg. They do excellent work, fair and honest. 
Harrisburg, OR
Kustom Coach Works, Bobby, (541) 501-3371   Has done work for me, and a lot of work for friends.  All very satisfied. 
Junction City, OR

Solar panels system, where to run wires down to battery?
tmw188 10 hours ago

Take the cover off your refrigerator vent cover on the roof (if your frig is not in the slide) look and see if there are some wires roughed in for solar under a cover like this.  

Need reliable RV shop around Eugene,Oregon that does refrigerator swap outs
Ron Shantos 10 hours ago

Just curious, why do you NOT TRUST your Norcold any longer?

 

Need reliable RV shop around Eugene,Oregon that does refrigerator swap outs
Hancoman 9 hours ago

Elite did my change over this year. Did a great job

Need reliable RV shop around Eugene,Oregon that does refrigerator swap outs
96 EVO 9 hours ago

32 minutes ago, Ron Shantos said:

Just curious, why do you NOT TRUST your Norcold any longer?

 

Probably because it's about 20yrs old now.

Most residential refrigerators won't live that long, and have a better chance of simply dying with a whimper than an absorption fridge.

Caveat, I have had a Dometic absorption fridge spring a leak, and nothing dramatic happened.

Another Newbie here, "new" 2007 Signature Owner
Malewis11 8 hours ago

@Tom Cherry the work was preformed as you described. There was definitely a spark but I took precautions to make sure nothing shorted. Started and drove the Coach to exercise her and all seems well. Resetting the TCM may be a good thing. I haven’t been happy with the downshifting so hopefully I’ll see some improvement. Thanks for the information.

2005 Diplomat. New DP (to us) Owner. First time towing a crew cab. WONDERFUL.
swmorgan 8 hours ago

The ride home was just as smooth.  Camping world here in salt lake city did a great job setting everything up for us.  I can have the truck hooked up and ready to roll in 15 minutes or less.  Loving the DP life!

Looking for the air pump pressure sensor
Goldeneagle 7 hours ago

Hi guy trying to find out why my pump runs non stop, assuming it’s a bad pressure sensor. The sensor has an air port and 2 wires? Have already fixed the air leaks to the tank

It’s a valid system on a 2007 navigator 

Trailer brake controller options
Goldeneagle 7 hours ago

Hey guy looking for recommendations on trailer brake controller’s . Need to replace my existing unit

Raising Bed to access storage
johncvandoren@gmail.com 5 hours ago

We’ve had trouble lifting the bed with a heavy memory foam topper, bed warmer, other layers, etc.  I had attempted to double-up the gas springs, but didn’t have the proper brackets or placement.  This week I installed a single pair of stronger gas springs right end up this time.  I also put in two “actuators” as shown in another post here.  The bed goes up & down with the touch of a button and no lifting.

Having read a few caveats, such as the under-the-bed power source with in-line fuse also under the bed, I did two things:

I put in a secondary power source line to which I can add power from a 12VDC battery through a small desk grommet.

“Just in case” either the wired switch, or  the wireless remote switches fail, I replaced the two lower cotterpin-held linch pins on the actuators with pins I can pull from 2” desk grommets I drilled into the sides of the bed base.  

Another Newbie here, "new" 2007 Signature Owner
Ivylog 1 hour ago

“accept that a 20 YO charger is gonna fail…soon”

My 3012 put as many amps into my AGMs as my Lithiums…so what’s the difference? Not going back to LA batteries to “save” my inverter/charger. For what a RC-50L costs you can buy an additional 100A charger which will reduce your generator run time when dry camping and can be set to 14.6V for Lithiums. The BMS in Lithium’s will stop the charging if you forget to turn it off.

LakeBob Thursday at 11:39 PM

LakeBob Thursday at 11:39 PM

FlynPirate Thursday at 12:11 PM

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