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Here's what the Monacoers have been talking about:
 

Index


Valid Air Leveling Pressure
Tom Cherry
Hard Starting
Rikadoo
Blue ox vs 2003 F-150 or OPTIONS???
Chargerman
Proper coolant recovery tank cap?
Malewis11
Hard Starting
Dr4Film
Blue ox vs 2003 F-150 or OPTIONS???
Tom Cherry
Tow Dolly for sale
Rikadoo
Hard Starting
Tom Cherry
Hard Starting
gjh2916
ScanGauge-D
scottknight
Proper coolant recovery tank cap?
96 EVO
ScanGauge-D
c210pa18
Valid Air Leveling Pressure
96 EVO
ScanGauge-D
Bobkat11208
Hard Starting
timaz996
Valid Air Leveling Pressure
Frank McElroy
Valid Air Leveling Pressure
96 EVO
Valid Air Leveling Pressure
Frank McElroy
No power to cord reel?
Happycarz
No power to cord reel?
swmorgan
No power to cord reel?
Happycarz

Discussions


Valid Air Leveling Pressure
Tom Cherry
9 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Yes.

I don't think Valid was dumb enough to allow air that didn't go thru the air dryer get to the chassis air tanks, but I don't know that for sure.

I'd like to hear Frank's take on this! 

Think again.  I do NOT know how prevalent this was in any other models.  BUT....go here.  Scroll down to yesterday's post.  There is a link to topic that I posted several years ago.

 

Frank helped me out with this way back when and we talked, offline, about it yesterday.  The GIST.

He originally thought that it was 2007 when the AUX Compressor was changed to one with a built in Air Dryer.  If you click on the older link, which was a "FWIW Warning Topic" about the 2007 Dynasty, it details the situation and the tests we ran and the eventual fix..  The compressor's air dryer failed, a common....how common...don't know.?...but KNOWN issue.  The owner ended up with at least a gallon of water in the rear tank.  Fortunately, the brake system was not contaminated.  Josams did the repairs and replaced the Compressor and all is well.

HOWEVER, I just pulled the 2006 Dynasty manual...and it appears that the 06 Dynasty (which included the HR and Monaco Dynasty/Imperial and UP models) did NOT have a note about draining the tank on the Aux Compressor.  Our Camelot/Scepter have, or at least mine does, the Aux Compressor up front and there is a small tank and drain valve there.

in 2008, Monaco added or went back to the normal, NON AIR DRYER, Aux Compressor as well as a separate tank.  Frank's 2008 has TWO fitting in the engine compartment... It is also attached... so there is a drain for the Rear Tank and the Aux Compressor Tank from there.

SO.  I'll leave to to the experts....but assuming that the 06 and 07 Aux Compressors were VALID and have the internal Air Dryer......then this is a know issue where water can and has gotten into the Rear tank and also possibly contaminated the braking system.

Hope this clears it up.  AS TO THE RATIONALE...  WHO KNOWS...but this is reality.

2008 Dynasty Air Drain FItting Locations.pdf 2006 Dynasty Air Drain Fitting Locations.pdf


Looking for the air pump pressure sensor
Tom Cherry

UPDATE.  There is a "similar" topic going...  It APPEARS that Monaco MIGHT have used the AUX Compressor with the built in air dryer in 2006 (Dynasty/imperial and up).

I printed out both pages from the manual.  SO...just a heads up.  if a Dynasty owner only has ONE fitting for the REAR tank in the back...and there is NO SMALL AIR TANK with a fitting near the pump....then keep an eye and drain the rear tank regularly.  My friend that had the issue with the 2007 defective pump got out maybe a gallon of water.  FORTUNATELY, the braking system was not contaminated, but Josams pulled lines and inspected.

NOW...  on other models such as the Camelots, the pumps are up front and there is a small tank with a drain valve.

Hope this clarifies it.... Here are the 2006 and 2008 pages from the manual which explain where and how many and what to drain.

 

2008 Dynasty Air Drain FItting Locations.pdf 2006 Dynasty Air Drain Fitting Locations.pdf


Norcold 1200LRIM s/n 8206262 worked when last parked in 2020; now shows no signs of life
Tom Cherry

Thanks for clarifying the ARP.  There was a MAJOR discussion on this at least 10 years ago. The proponent of it....among others... was, I THINK, Bill Groves. He was a persistent cuss, God Bless his stubborn soul and would research things.  This was also during the preponderance of RV fires, 95% attributable to the Norcold.  TO DATE and my MEMORY, we have never had a FIRE or such from the Dometic 1402, which was the "UPGRADE" that Monaco put in the Camelot...and maybe the Dynasty rather than the Norcold.

Mine came with the Dometic. 

The crux is this.  The Norcold's RECALL DEVICE...if you read the 4 files in the NORCOLD "File" in the Files section go in to details.  ARP and it's website offer their own "explanations".  Whether all their claims and such are PR or FACT....that is up to an individual to sort through.  If you google ARP NORCOLD FIX....there are at least 10 hits on other sites and the debate and comments reminds me of two politicians that are "GOING TO FIX" a major problem...but have totally different approaches.

In addition, and I don't know the time line...  The ARP folks have expanded the scope of their products.  Early in in 2010, a fellow Camelot owner and myself experimented with a "Table Top" version of the Fantastic Vent Fan.  Fantastic sold them and CW stocked them.  We added the supplement exhaust fan to the upper vent and also changed out....as in LOWERED the operating temperature....but using the Norcold snap disk instead of the higher temperature OEM Dometic.  I know that at least 10 or more older members did the same thing and all reported an improvement in cooling.

Some members also tapped into the existing Norcold Fan circuit...and added fans to the roof vent.  Dr4 Film, I THINK....did the same thing.

THEN ARP started expanding their product line and now offers the same "concept".  if you read the other posts....there are some interesting stories about how much and how "intense" adding the additional cooling fans were.  The bottom line.  Whether you blow air UP around the burner (and Dometic said, when I talked to them....DO NOT DO THIS...it will impact the BURNER operation).....which is what ARP does.... OR

If you add Supplemental exhaust to the upper stack or flue.....  The end result.  The performance improves.

NOW....having said that.  IN MY CASE....the reality or such of the Dometic started to hit circa 2015. The performance dropped way off and it was NOT the same unit that I souped up in 2010.  Therefore....after a LOT OF testing and talking to several well know Gas Refer techs....  I concluded that the system must have a "leak" or that something was amiss in the controls....but the diagnostics did NOT indicated that.

My criteria was simple.  How long...on say an 85 deg day, does it take to cool down the Dometic.  Then, when you load in cold (from the fridge) drinks and other items, how long does it take to recover?  My "Non Engineer" but logic wife summed it up.  I can't buy all the cold stuff I need when we are out....and do my once per 5 or 8 days replenishment.  If I bring home all those...and put it in the Dometic, it takes 24 hours for the ice cream to "HARDEN" again.

THAT was the bottom line.

SO, if the Dometic or a Norcold is working and cooling and recovering properly...  GREAT.  But if it is waning....then additional exhaust (per Dometic...not updraft) may be recommended...and EFFECTIVE..  BUT if NOT...then the refrigeration portion...assuming the controls are OK....is failing...  NOW...when does that failure turn into a concern?  THERE IN lies the dilemma....and the CONCERNS FOR SAFETY.

 


Hard Starting
Rikadoo

Replace the ignition switch! Short while after buying my new to me rig an before i installed the fass system it would crank alot before it would fire, i replaced the switch an it has not had a issue since


Random topic...but also states the DANGERS of dealing with large and high pressure tires.
Jetjockey

I am guessing the Bravo spin up kit on nose wheel was to lessen likely hood of gravel ingestion fin engines?


Random topic...but also states the DANGERS of dealing with large and high pressure tires.
klcdenver

Yes that is correct. I am now flying a Pilatus PC24 that is certified for dirt, gravel, grass and unimproved strips. It has a nose wheel fender that looks about like a catchers mitt.


Blue ox vs 2003 F-150 or OPTIONS???
Rikadoo

Well i went to the 109 FMCA CONVENTION, asside from geeking out at the seminars, i found myself in front of the blue ox booth, an faster than you can count the change im now the owner of a new tow bar… Then of course i had to order the base plate for my 2003 F150 which of course had to be ordered, the next week i get a phone call stating they dont have any in stock an though they have tools an plans they tell me it wont ship out till Oct 22, 2024. So much for the thrill of getting rid of my tow dolly🤦‍♂️ 


Blue ox vs 2003 F-150 or OPTIONS???
Chargerman

Considering that it’s a 20 yr old truck I would imagine that have to make the baseplate


Proper coolant recovery tank cap?
Malewis11

They finished cleaning and flushing my radiator. Said the outside was the worst they had ever seen. At least I’m #1 in something. They even cleaned it twice. I’m sure cooling is much improved so I think I’ll go to 7# cap. Does anyone have an opinion on whether I should try to seal those brass fittings? I turned them but never met resistance. They appear to not have a stop. I would be afraid of any kind of tape but I have read that some used a spray sealant on cracks in these tanks. I plan on going steel or aluminum but that will be at least a couple of months. 

Hard Starting
Dr4Film

I really don't think "pumping fuel throttle peddle" will help you since it is a fuel injected engine plus the peddle is not mechanical like it was when vehicles had carburetors.

Sure sounds like it could be electrical and not mechanical.


Blue ox vs 2003 F-150 or OPTIONS???
Tom Cherry

NOT NECESSARILY.....A little research goes a LONG WAY.....FWIW.

RE...  BLUE OX vs ROADMASTER...which is now a viable OPTION....the consensus of the folks that have...for almost 20 years....looked at the design, number of fasteners and size of fasteners....chosen Roadmaster.  I have done this 3 times...and myself and other graduate engineers (one an ACE Mechanical one)....ran or run Roadmaster's.

NOW....having said that....  GO to the Roadmaster Site.  The 03 F-150 was the LAST of the older chassis ....that was from 96 - 03.  The Roadmaster Baseplate is 

456-1

Tow Dolly for sale
Rikadoo

Selling my 2021 master tow dolly, still in very good shape. $1600.00 bought it new, i added safety chains, it has electric brakes, it tows very well. Currently in east bay californiaIMG_4529.thumb.jpeg.25bfa65ce538586d333667a760175656.jpeg


Hard Starting
Tom Cherry
4 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

I really don't think "pumping fuel throttle peddle" will help you since it is a fuel injected engine plus the peddle is not mechanical like it was when vehicles had carburetors.

Sure sounds like it could be electrical and not mechanical.

DOUBLE DITTO.  In the days of a CARBURETOR....there was an ACCELERATOR PUMP (diapghram) in EVERY CARBURETOR....or for CARS.  I know...  I was the Engineering Manager for a company that supplied Ford with 25,000 carburetors PER DAY.  

SO, there ain't NO CARB and ain't NO Accelerator Pump.

As to the HARD STARTING and the IGNITION switch.  Sometimes YES....sometimes NO. When the switch fails...it USUALLY has other symptoms.  You can wiggle it.  You can watch the displays or such that are IGNITION ON.  Frequently ONE or some of them will NOT DISPLAY...like the Aladdin.  If you PUSH the key in one direction or two DIFFERENT positions, it will USUALLY start.

BUT, if the Engine is TURNING OVER and the Displays ALL LIGHT UP and no "gee, maybe later" ON's...then I would be less inclined to throw $$ at it without a REAL diagnosis and troubleshooting.

Since the comment was...."AFTER a LOT of cranking"....that would appear to eliminate the Chassis Battery.  The fact that it CRANKED....means that the Ignition switch is providing the START signal.

The DRIVE BY WIRE or the Accelerator mechanism on the older Monaco's is obselete  There are several threads on them here...and the upgrade/replacement is not cheap.

I do NOT know if there is any interaction between the Throttle Control Sensor  (the "potentionometer" that controls the activator on the engine.  Maybe someone can chime in here.  HOPE NOT...

Wish I could add more...but logically troubleshooting and not throwing parts and money is something that is stressed here...

Good Luck.


Magnum ME2012 MSW Inverter/Charger 2000w-100a
Scotty Hutto
On 9/3/2024 at 7:04 AM, JoeV67 said:

Hello,

Do you know if the ME2012 control board version w/ RC-50 remote allow the lithium battery charging profiles?

Thanks

Joe

I have a ME2012 (about the same vintage) with the ME-ARC-50.  According to the Magnum Tech I spoke with, the official word is that Magnum does not support Lithium with this inverter. They only support lithium with the new “MS” series of pure sine wave inverters. 

HOWEVER, we do have some members using a ME2012 with Lithium batteries and setting it to charge using one of the AGM battery profiles.  Do a search for magnum+lithium or magnum+LiPO4 on the site and you will find more info on that.  Since I haven’t personally done it, I don’t feel qualified to give you a thumbs-up or thumbs-down.  


Solar panels system, where to run wires down to battery?
scottknight

i used the rear cap dropped a plum bob thru hole ended up in rear passenger bin where i mounted controller next to inverter then on to batteries. My next solar addition will be folding remote I discovered that I like shade on rv as much as i like solar. I am not an expert just a user of solar. Wife runs sewing machine and quilting when boondocking. I did run # 2 Stran DC wire on roof to controller then to battery bank to mitigate voltage drop

Hard Starting
gjh2916

4 hours ago, Superpro14 said:

did you leave the original lift pump in place and have the fuel running through it, if so could be sucking air at the lift pump again

Yes I left Lift pump in place, and disconnected the wiring. There is no leaks at lift pump, all the connections are completely dry.


ScanGauge-D
scottknight

just starting to look at this, could have used it on a couple of summits on last trip. Reason for change to BlueFire? ..... 04  8.3  330hp


Magnum ME2012 MSW Inverter/Charger 2000w-100a
Tom Cherry

Scotty's comments and what I have been told, on NUMEROUS occasions by Magnum...as well as all the LITHIUM HOW TO's.... This is correct.

The only caveat that I think, to be open and honest with all members.

The useful life of a Magnum inverter is finally catching up.  We have a LOT of almost or slightly OLDER than 20 year old Magnums.  In the past 18 or so months, we have seen TWICE the TOTAL FAILURE of Magnums that we did when this site started up circa 2018.  I have read or been involved in about EVERY Magnum issue...and have helped at least 20 or more folks "pull a rabbit out of the hat" and do some Hard and Soft Resets and use the TRICKS that Magnum Tech support told me.

NOW, the failures of the Magnum's has been "diagnosed" as "OVERHEATING".  The FET or the CHIPS in the Inverter...the MAIN CHIPS....are embedded or were seated on a Conductive Thermal Paste or Heat Sink Compound. That then allows the FET to transfer the heat, from the current, to the heat sink.  The heat sink has FINS and the fans in the Inverter will then cool the FET's.  There are several temperature sensors and if you use the TECH button, you can monitor the temps.

MY OWN EXPERIENCE.  I do my DRAIN and RECHARGE test every year or so.  This year... I had to TURN DOWN the Charging rate.  I usually, due to the age...run only 80%...which is what Magnum told me to do to preserve the life.  NOW, I have cut that back to 60%.  Mine had a FAULT...as in the FET's got too hot.  The Magnum shuts down...when the FET's cool down....it restarts.  I have NOT had that happen before.

SO...be aware...Magnum says that the useful life and the TECHS VARY... is in the 12 - 15 year range.....one might have said 17.  BUT, we routinely saw very few issues until about 2 years ago...and THEN it is happening.  One a similar vein....the Xantrex Inverters are also now starting to die.  I remember at least 3 or so this year.  THAT is also, if you keep a "mental scorecard" as I do....an increase.

SO....a used inverter needs to be considered with regard to it's expected useful life...and also how it was used.  

NOW... Also look at the cost of a NEW PCB or control Board.  Unfortunately, no private refurbishing site has come up with a replacement.  IT IS POSSIBLE to remove the FET's and re "BED" them... but it requires skill and a hot air soldering/desoldering system.

Just as we advise folks about Kongsberg Chassis....and such...used items need to be objectively commented on....

 


Proper coolant recovery tank cap?
96 EVO

Seem to recall reading some had good luck using JB Weld on the brass fitting threads.


ScanGauge-D
c210pa18

I very much like having them both the ScanGauge and BlueFire.  I normally have the ScanGauge set to read out TODAYS data which resets its self daily so you can just scroll through miles today, fuel today, milage today etc.  You could also do this with BlueFire but it just works nice to have them both. even if some of the data can be redundant.  I was going to sell mine too but I am glad to have both working together.d


Valid Air Leveling Pressure
96 EVO

Is there a full air schematic for that year / model?

You would think the aux compressor would feed the suspension 6 packs directly 🤔.


Magnum ME2012 MSW Inverter/Charger 2000w-100a
Frank McElroy

Two banks of FETs are soldered to a circuit board and the heat is then conducted through the back of the board to the heat sink case.  Cooling is accomplished via two internal fans.  When one of the fans stops working, you wind up with the FETs overheating faster.  Attached is a link to a 80 minute video giving a lot more details on repairing a Magnum Inverter.  This guy is good.

 


ScanGauge-D
Bobkat11208
2 hours ago, scottknight said:

just starting to look at this, could have used it on a couple of summits on last trip. Reason for change to BlueFire? ..... 04  8.3  330hp

I chose the Bluefire primarily for the reason that I don't trust the 20+ YO analog gauges (which is the exact same reason I initially went with the ScanGauge-D).  Plus, the SG, while it was very useful, and honestly reads the same data off the ECM, only presented 4 data points at a time and I'm more of a visual person.  So there was both a function & form component to my decision to switch.

If I had never heard of the BlueFIre, I'd still be using the SG today.  However, being a mechanical engineer and a tech/IT guy, I have to admit it's also kinda neat to have a 'Glass Dash'; i.e. a single point to monitor what I consider critical data.  Make sense? 

Bottom line-I would recommend either.


Magnum ME2012 MSW Inverter/Charger 2000w-100a
dsell556

I am trying to ask a question but am unable to do it right. Can you help me with the process of posting a question and where do I post it

thanks Dan Sell. 2009 Monaco Signature 


Magnum ME2012 MSW Inverter/Charger 2000w-100a
Bobkat11208
On 9/3/2024 at 9:40 AM, MyronTruex said:

Put it on Craigs list or Facebook Market place. Then you should not have to deal with shipping. Sold mine quickly. 

I'll check that out Myron.  I don't have Facebook but DW does and honestly didn't know Craig's List was still even a thing-lol.


Hard Starting
timaz996
3 hours ago, gjh2916 said:

Yes I left Lift pump in place, and disconnected the wiring. There is no leaks at lift pump, all the connections are completely dry.

Leaving the lift pump in place is fine, but you need to bypass it with the fuel lines and that is easily done. Just disconnect the inlet and outlet lines from the pump and connect them together with a coupler. Otherwise you’re just pushing fuel through a pump that’s not operating.


UPDATE CARB (California Air Resource Board) as applies to Motorhome
BrokenArrow1244

I get this message monthly. My tags are due by January2025 and expect to be notified for testing in Nov. Just sharing info.

Dear 

Below is a summary of the current status of your  CTC-VIS account:

1. Vehicle Compliance Certification Status:
a. 0 Vehicle Compliance Certification(s) were issued to your entity in the last month.
b. In total, 1 vehicle(s) are currently compliant out of 1 registered in your entity.
c. 0 of the Vehicle Compliance Certificate(s) will expire within next 90 days.

2. Compliance Fee:
a. Fees Due Soon: 0 vehicle(s) are with fee(s) due within next 90 days.
b. Fees Past Due: 0 vehicle(s) are with fee(s) already past due.
c. Expired Fee: There are 0 expired fee(s) in your Entity.

3. Periodic Test:
a. Vehicles with Test(s) Due: 0 vehicle(s) have entered their test submission period, and the test(s) will be due within next 90 days.
b. Tests Past Due: 0 vehicle(s) are with test(s) already past due.

4. Enforcement Hold:
0 vehicle(s) are currently under hold due to outstanding CARB Enforcement actions.

The status may vary from day to day, for more details and the latest status, please visit your account at UPDATE CARB (California Air Resource Board) as applies to Motorhome
Les Hurdle

Had mine tested when I didn't need to...........  expect info next Feb.


2025 Gathering Update & Agenda - as of September 3, 2024
Martinvz

How about Softstart for ACs and  the new whole coach softstart. Pros, Cons and implications as a topic?


Valid Air Leveling Pressure
Frank McElroy
22 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Yes.

I don't think Valid was dumb enough to allow air that didn't go thru the air dryer get to the chassis air tanks, but I don't know that for sure.

I'd like to hear Frank's take on this! 

When the engine is running, the small aux air tank gets air from the rear main dry air tank through a check valve.  Air from this small tank then feeds the manifold valves for the air bags.  With the engine OFF, the small aux air tank is pressurized via the aux air compressor.  The check valve prevents wet air in the aux air tank from getting into the main dry air tank.


Valid Air Leveling Pressure
96 EVO
10 minutes ago, Frank McElroy said:

When the engine is running, the small aux air tank gets air from the rear main dry air tank through a check valve.  Air from this small tank then feeds the manifold valves for the air bags.  With the engine OFF, the small aux air tank is pressurized via the aux air compressor.  The check valve prevents wet air in the aux air tank from getting into the main dry air tank.

How about this special '07 model Tom is talking about with a Valid system, no aux compressor air tank, but a dryer on the compressor.

Wouldn't that be plumbed the same as the HWH systems were, with the aux air going straight to the suspension manifold valves?


Valid Air Leveling Pressure
Frank McElroy
21 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

How about this special '07 model Tom is talking about with a Valid system, no aux compressor air tank, but a dryer on the compressor.

Wouldn't that be plumbed the same as the HWH systems were, with the aux air going straight to the suspension manifold valves?

Yes, you are correct.


No power to cord reel?
Happycarz

Hi Sam,

When you push the retract button, do you hear any noise. There is a gear inside the reel that breaks and it can be replaced.  You should hear the motor run, though. 
If not that, verify the switch has 12 volts to it, so when you push it it sends power to the rewind motor.

Try these things and let us know.


No power to cord reel?
swmorgan
2 minutes ago, Happycarz said:

Hi Sam,

When you push the retract button, do you hear any noise. There is a gear inside the reel that breaks and it can be replaced.  You should hear the motor run, though. 
If not that, verify the switch has 12 volts to it, so when you push it it sends power to the rewind motor.

Try these things and let us know.

No noise at all.  I checked the fuse up front and it is fine...haven't checked anything else yet


No power to cord reel?
Happycarz

Carefully take the two wires of the back of the switch, not letting the positive touch metal. I don’t know which one is positive so be careful with both.  Then test the wires for voltage. One should be hot. If so, momentarily touch it to other wire to see in reel motor engages. If motor engages, replace the switch.

If no power to either wire, you will have to look upstream from switch to fuse.  But, let’s hope it is just the switch at the reel. 
 

 

 


2025 Gathering Update & Agenda - as of September 3, 2024
DJR1SR

Ok did I miss the post on registering? I replied initially that we were interested in going but never saw anything about registering for the event. What is the procedure for registering?


2025 Gathering Update & Agenda - as of September 3, 2024
Scotty Hutto

Dennis,

You can register at the link below. An email should have gone out to everyone; not sure why you didn’t receive it!

https://www.monacoers.org/store/category/1-2025-gathering-registration/

EDIT: Apparently the email never went out. Thanks for bringing this to my attention!



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