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tmw188
Thank you everyone for your contributions to this post, all good suggestions and options. Decided to look into the hot spot and go from there. Most of our travels we get by with just our cellular service.
Superpro14
trying to figure out how the ceiling panels which close in the electrical and hydraulic etc between the main frames in the center of the bottom storage compartments are held up in place, can't seen any screws and I am going to run new hydraulic hoses through that area front to back, anyone have these down?thanks
Tom Cherry
7 hours ago, Happycarz said:Carefully take the two wires of the back of the switch, not letting the positive touch metal. I don’t know which one is positive so be careful with both. Then test the wires for voltage. One should be hot. If so, momentarily touch it to other wire to see in reel motor engages. If motor engages, replace the switch.
If no power to either wire, you will have to look upstream from switch to fuse. But, let’s hope it is just the switch at the reel.
Happy and I are on the same PAGE. The switch is a SPDT Center OFF switch. Mine failed...so I replaced it and I know it works this way. The CENTER is the INCOMING power. IF you have POWER to the CENTER terminal....then you can "JUMPER" (pull out the switch) one terminal to the other. Use a paper clip....bent into a big "U". Works great. If you don't hear the motor start when you jumper to either of the outside or Top or Bottom terminals....AND you have POWER on the Center (Measured of COURSE to Ground) Terminal....then it is in the REEL. All you are doing is powering the motor one way....so it extends and then the other way so it retracts.
The switches DO fail....they are common.
That's how you test.
Tom Cherry
11 hours ago, Martinvz said:How about Softstart for ACs and the new whole coach softstart. Pros, Cons and implications as a topic?
We are considering an entire presentation on HVAC. A matter or INTEREST and TIME and SLOTS....
NOW...if there is ON.....it will be comprehensive....in that....THIS IS HOW THE Dometic MPX system works...and goes from there.....and the COMMON issues. That will also have a section on the Soft Starts. Basically, when the AC Compressors start to wear, there is MORE friction or "DRAG" in the motor. There is ONE common Starting Capacitor on the system. It help "BOOST" the Fan and the compressor motors. BUT....when these motor get some age on them, the starting or the "INDUCTIVE" load increases.
An AC Motor(s) always has a higher starting current or load when it has to TURN OVER. Usually this spike is brief. The spike is therefore, no LONG ENOUGH, so the circuit breaker (typically 20 Amp), doesn't "see" or is impacted by the spike. BUT....as time goes on....the motor required MORE starting current...HIGHER for a LONGER time. THEN....the Circuit Breaker says WHOA....that is TOO HIGH...ain't gonna allow that. THEN they trip.
SOMETIMES it is a defective Starting Capacitor. One of the MOST COMMON failures on a Home HVAC system is a failed capacitor. There are TWO motors on your home system. The Compressor (in the bottom) and the Condenser Fan in the top (the fan that blows and exhausts the air. A good HVAC tech has a MAJOR assortment of Starting Capacitors....and a LARGE inventory.
Same deal here. SO, if a NEW capacitor does NOT some the Dometic "TRIPS THE BREAKER" issue....then there are the SOFT STARTS. They phase in or keep the SPIKE from being as high....as well as LONG. They are considered as a "BANDAID". They will give you a bit more LIFE or let the system run... BUT...they DO NOT ADDRESS the issue.. The Compressor is WEARING OUT... and it is gonna DIE....as eventually the Soft Start can't compensate for the wear or the friction.
The SOFT START, as some think, does NOT, REPEAT NOT, improve the operation of a NEW SYSTEM. It is used ONLY when the Compressor is WORN to the point where the NORMAL NEW Capacitor requires TOO MUCH and TOO LONG Current.... SO, putting them on as a "Preventative" serves NO Purpose.
That's how they work.
The HVAC will also discuss the "GEE...I don't WANT a Dometic and want the Rec Pro".
That is the plan....and it will be based on interest as well as time constraints. The seminars are a balance of times and slots and interests...
jacwjames
My screws were buried in the carpet, hard to find. From memory I used a screw driver to pry down on one corner and that zeroed me in on the screw location.
jacwjames
One suggestion I have is to disconnect the fuel hose at the secondary filter if you left it in place and check the flow rate of the FASS pump, put the hose in a 5 gallon button, turn the ignition on for 30 seconds and check volume of fuel pumped. My FASS is a 100 gph, so in 30 seconds it should pump ~1 gallon. Eyeball it and if it is close that means the pump is putting enough fuel out. If not there is a restriction either on the suction side or on the pressure side.
If fuel is not an issue then it might be 12 volt circuit, check connections at starter.
Superpro14
Thanks Jim, I was looking a little yesterday, my knee is bothering me so today I will take a better look, I was thinking screws buried. Starting to cool off here and I need to get this job done before it starts to snow and that could happen in Oct.
Tom Cherry
NOT ALL MONACOS have the SAME FRB layout... rarely... but if they are...they may not be labeled the same....THUS, one needs to have the LAYOUT of their OWN FRB and RRB....
OK....FIRST UP. @swmorgan
Go to the MANUAL. This is the ONLY prints that we have....and it is for a 2005 Diplomat/Endeavor. Here is the FUSE layout. This shows TWO circuit Breakers. NOW that is FASCINATING.
WHAT I think there is... there are TWO MAIN POWER Circuit Breakers. And I DO NOT UNDERSTAND THE NEED for this...
BUT...if you look at the PRINT on the Cord Reel...it only shows a SPST SPRING LOADED switch.... TWO WIRES. One has POWER....the other goes to the REEL.
The fuse is also marked. CONSULT YOUR WIRING DIAGRAMS in the MANUAL...but this print was DATED 2003 and it was for a 2006 MY...so, ODDS ARE...this is how yours is SUPPOSED to be.
FUSE LAYOUT - 2006 DIP ENDEAVOR.pdf Power CORD REEL - Diplomat....SINCE 2003.pdf
zmotorsports
Looks like a great agenda with a wealth of knowledge to speak on the subjects.
Wish we could attend, looks to be an awesome Monaco rally.
BMulvenna
4 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:NOT ALL MONACOS have the SAME FRB layout... rarely... but if they are...they may not be labeled the same....THUS, one needs to have the LAYOUT of their OWN FRB and RRB....
OK....FIRST UP. @swmorgan
Go to the MANUAL. This is the ONLY prints that we have....and it is for a 2005 Diplomat/Endeavor. Here is the FUSE layout. This shows TWO circuit Breakers. NOW that is FASCINATING.
WHAT I think there is... there are TWO MAIN POWER Circuit Breakers. And I DO NOT UNDERSTAND THE NEED for this...
BUT...if you look at the PRINT on the Cord Reel...it only shows a SPST SPRING LOADED switch.... TWO WIRES. One has POWER....the other goes to the REEL.
The fuse is also marked. CONSULT YOUR WIRING DIAGRAMS in the MANUAL...but this print was DATED 2003 and it was for a 2006 MY...so, ODDS ARE...this is how yours is SUPPOSED to be.
FUSE LAYOUT - 2006 DIP ENDEAVOR.pdf 449.83 kB · 3 downloads Power CORD REEL - Diplomat....SINCE 2003.pdf 101.9 kB · 2 downloads
Here's the picture for my 04 Dynasty
Hard Starting
gjh2916
On 9/4/2024 at 12:28 PM, timaz996 said:Leaving the lift pump in place is fine, but you need to bypass it with the fuel lines and that is easily done. Just disconnect the inlet and outlet lines from the pump and connect them together with a coupler. Otherwise you’re just pushing fuel through a pump that’s not operating.
See the diagram this how I piped up the fuel lines, so I could utilize the return to the tank
Hard Starting
timaz996
I also mounted my FASS pump in the department, but I bypass the stock lift pump with the stock fuel lines using a coupler. I ran a completely new return line because the stock return line cannot handle the extra volume of the FASS pump. At least I was told the stock return line could not handle that much fuel going back to the tank. But I’m not sure that would cause your problem of hard starting the engine.
jimboland@sbcglobal.net
When mine didn't work, went inside the door where cord reel and switch were. The wire had come loose from behind switch. Plugged back in and it worked fine.
Jim
2009 Monaco Camelot 42kfq
3pedal
How were your engine temps on the big climbs? I have not picked a Toad yet, and am considering a pickup.
Goodtimes
When mine didn't work, replaced the switch but not issue. Found a defective thermo switch wired directly into motor. Easy to replace, bought 2 for $3 on Amazon. See attached photo of defective unit.
Hard Starting
jacwjames
5 hours ago, timaz996 said:I also mounted my FASS pump in the department, but I bypass the stock lift pump with the stock fuel lines using a coupler. I ran a completely new return line because the stock return line cannot handle the extra volume of the FASS pump. At least I was told the stock return line could not handle that much fuel going back to the tank. But I’m not sure that would cause your problem of hard starting the engine.
I mounted my FASS up at the fuel tank making the return line easy and I used the original fuel supply suction line from the FASS to the engine. I also bypassed the the original transfer pump, didn't want to take a chance and there has been some reports of the original transfer pump stopping up. So why take the chance. I also abandoned the original primary filter but I did keep the secondary filter and that is where I mounted my pressure sending unit.
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