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BennieH
You do not need the lift pump in the fuel circuit with the Fass. I have a set of photos with labels on the lift pump. You can simply bypass the pump only and the fuel returns built into it will function normally.
In the link below, go to the last post and it details the lift pump and mounting assembly. the Banjo connections for the fuel return have no connection to the pump other than they are part of a common unit.
cbr046
Back to the original issue . . . . .
If there is *ANY* pressure at the input to the CAPS pump it should start. If the flow isn't sufficient it wouldn't run well under load, losing boost in the process, but it would idle just fine.
I'm starting to suspect something electrical . . . . are the injectors electrically or mechanically driven on a CAPS pump?
Maybe the fuel gelled inside the CAPS pump? Or the pump shaft broke? Is there a way to crack the connectors to the injectors and see if they "leak"?
- bob
FlynPirate
On 8/31/2024 at 10:19 AM, swmorgan said:Yesterday was our first trip with this rv and truck in tow. I previously owned a national rv gasser that I pulled an Acura mdx behind and knew the next rv would have to be a diesel. That national on the hills was a killer.
Yesterday we drove salt lake city to Dillon montana with my crew cab silverado in tow and had a great experience. No problem holding 65 mph the whole trip. Hardly even felt the thing back there. I'm loving my first diesel experience
Keep the updates coming! I'm currently considering a full-size Chevy or GMC Toad. What model are you pulling? What towbar system?
cbr046
On 9/5/2024 at 7:46 AM, Tom Cherry said:The HVAC will also discuss the "GEE...I don't WANT a Dometic and want the Rec Pro".
That is the plan....and it will be based on interest as well as time constraints. The seminars are a balance of times and slots and interests...
And heat pump vs AC only . . . . add a few minutes for thermostats (Dometic vs MicroAir), data cables, etc.
@Scotty Hutto Also suggest a seminar on dos & don'ts of lithium batteries with / or protecting the engine alternator, adding solar, including mounting techniques, combined with different solar controllers (PWM vs MPPT), antique inverters, etc. Just gotta find the right presenter(s).
Good chance we won't be attending. Timing is everything.
- bob
gjh2916
I think I might have found the problem. Several of the connections on the fuel lines connected to the filters were a little loose. Maybe it was loosing its prime. The hard start issue was only 50% of the time. Once engine starts it runs fine and idles fine, my boost is about 20psi under load. I tightened fittings now time will tell if this corrected the problem.
2 hours ago, BennieH said:You do not need the lift pump in the fuel circuit with the Fass. I have a set of photos with labels on the lift pump. You can simply bypass the pump only and the fuel returns built into it will function normally.
In the link below, go to the last post and it details the lift pump and mounting assembly. the Banjo connections for the fuel return have no connection to the pump other than they are part of a common unit.
MY installation is very similar to yours except I cap the lines where I disconnected them from the filters and left them connected to the lift pump. Added new lines to install lift pump. I also bought my kit from Ultra RV products. This problem I'm having just started a couple of months ago, up until them Fass system worked fine for 3 years.
gjh2916
59 minutes ago, gjh2916 said:I think I might have found the problem. Several of the connections on the fuel lines connected to the filters were a little loose. Maybe it was loosing its prime. The hard start issue was only 50% of the time. Once engine starts it runs fine and idles fine, my boost is about 20psi under load. I tightened fittings now time will tell if this corrected the problem.
MY installation is very similar to yours except I cap the lines where I disconnected them from the filters and left them connected to the lift pump. Added new lines to install lift pump. I also bought my kit from Ultra RV products. This problem I'm having just started a couple of months ago, up until them Fass system worked fine for 3 years.
My bad that was suppose to say added new lines to install Fass Pump
RNMCBR
I have been towing a 2003 GMC 2500 4x4 for over five years. I can top the grapevine on I -5 south of Bakersfield CA at 45-55 depending on whether I downshift. Almost all 18-wheelers grind down to less than 45mph. I have had no issues with overheating even in the summer heat.
I commonly carry 1/2 bed full of firewood on the way to Quartzsite with little apparent difference.
My tow bar is a Roadmaster Sterling and the braking system is AirForce1.
My friend Paul has the same coach as mine and he tows a 2005 Chevy K2500 diesel PU, sometimes with a Honda Goldwing on a hydraulic lift in the bed. When we’ve traveled together with this configuration, he has had little problem keeping up with me.
BTW, I get around 10-11 mpg on my 5,300# truck and 7.5-8 on my 33,000# GVW coach towing the truck (but not uphill!).
This is counter-intuitive for sure. These engines are amazing.
You should have no problem towing whatever you want.
jacwjames
Keep an eye on any problems associated with the CAPS pump.
I know with the OEM transfer pump leaking problem and then sucking air when it was running caused many CAPS pump failures.
Do you have any type of monitoring system that will show fault codes.
johncvandoren@gmail.com
I see the registration info, but it doesn’t show the location or the campsite?
Scotty Hutto
You can find info on location and campsite here:
And registration info here:
https://www.monacoers.org/store/category/1-2025-gathering-registration/
BennieH
3 hours ago, gjh2916 said:I think I might have found the problem. Several of the connections on the fuel lines connected to the filters were a little loose. Maybe it was loosing its prime. The hard start issue was only 50% of the time. Once engine starts it runs fine and idles fine, my boost is about 20psi under load. I tightened fittings now time will tell if this corrected the problem.
MY installation is very similar to yours except I cap the lines where I disconnected them from the filters and left them connected to the lift pump. Added new lines to install lift pump. I also bought my kit from Ultra RV products. This problem I'm having just started a couple of months ago, up until them Fass system worked fine for 3 years.
Glad you got it figured out.
gjh2916
1 hour ago, jacwjames said:Keep an eye on any problems associated with the CAPS pump.
I know with the OEM transfer pump leaking problem and then sucking air when it was running caused many CAPS pump failures.
Do you have any type of monitoring system that will show fault codes.
Yes I have a code scanner and no codes were thrown
2005 Diplomat. New DP (to us) Owner. First time towing a crew cab. WONDERFUL.
Tom Cherry
Only thing I might add. GM (Chevy and GMC) redesigned the truck chassis and driveline in 2014.. Then, in 2015, they did likewise with the Yukon and Tahoe…as well as.the Caddy Escalade….but Caddy only had one engine that the DL would flat tow.
The PUT flat tow upgrade has “not ready” for Prime Time. Got LOTS of unfavorable press and it took GM at least “1 or 2” software revisions to make it work and be reliable. THEN, they also had to UPDATE the instructions and the “steps” to make it work.
I purchased a 2014 Yukon to get the older (2007 - 2014) driveline. It works FLAWLESSLY….never a bobble. I have about 90K on my Toads….a 98 Explorer, a 08 Hummer H3 (GM goofed and had to replace the servo or stepper motors that do the shifting)…but it was then fine. I have maybe 35K on the Yukon.
In the new drivelines, you MUST disconnect or that was what the revised set of instructions said, the Battery. It went BACK to a Steering wheel lock and also uses “electric” and not Hydraulic steering. There was a concern about a backfeed from the MH’s tail lights into the CanBuss (may not be the official name). If you got 12 VDC into the vehicle’s electrical system….the steering wheel lock could engage….and if there was “power” to the power steering motor, the default was to Center the Wheels…..NOT GOOD.
I have seen many that are towing the 2014 PUT and the 2015 SUV. BUT, a well known Indy Racing team owner’s almost NEW fully decked Caddy….DID BURST into flames….behind his multimillion Prevost. Fortunately the driver got it disconnected and drove the bus to safety before things really heated up.
Just passing this along. It was posted on the old Yahoo site and many had experienced the frustration and upgrades and finally perfection of flat towing.
The solution, and I think E-Trailer mentioned this….install a battery cut off switch. Some opted for one on Neg and one on Pos. Can’t recall which GM said to DISCONNECT ….
RVerBob
I'm looking to purchase a tow vehicle as well, can anyone give me a good jeep option.
Coach is a 2005 HR Imperial. PS need a good tow package as well.
Tom Cherry
Roadmaster has been the choice. Many experienced mwmbers dating back into the late 90. The baseplates usually have more fasteners and the fastener sizes (diameter) are larger. I did a head to head three times with the “other” brand. Hands down my choice. Like myself, we have had many graduate engineers some to the same conclusion.
Roadmaster has good basic and reliable and long lasting tow bars. I put 60K on a Falcon 2….and had the “rebuild” kit installed maybe 50K. It was, per the Hitch Shop supervisor of a large dealership…..same as new.
ALWAYS torque, with a torque wrench the fasteners and liberally use Loctite RED. Most of us drill out the “hitch pin” hole maybe 1/16” and use Master Padlocks.
Can’t go wrong. I only upgraded to the Sterling as my Yukon was in the high 5,000’s and the Falcon 2 was good for 6,000. Never a worry…
96 EVO
I'll stick with my old Demco Excalibar I.
10,500LB capacity. Built like a tank!!
Chargerman
I’ve been towing a 2916 Sierra 2500 4x4 crew cab since new without any issues. Yes the battery needs to be disconnected and the key left on so the steering wheel doesn’t lock. I use a NSA Hercules tow bar due to its 12,000 lb rating and integrated braking setup.
the Hercules proved its worth when the DW once turned the key off when trying to help me hook up. Thankfully it was raining as I pulled the truck 250 miles before checking it at a stop to find the wheel locked. Tires were about due for a change but that incident sealed it
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