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Here's what the Monacoers have been talking about:
Index
Superpro14
jacwjames
Doug and Nicki
Tom Cherry
Benjamin
CAT Stephen
Doug and Nicki
96 EVO
Tom Cherry
Discussions
Superpro14
Thanks to all, very good info, now the work begins, just on a side note, only return oil to the tank which goes through the filters is from cooler, returns from power steering and some of the oil from the fan dump into the tank , are mixed with the suction of the pump and eventually get through the filters after multiple passes through the system, the oil from the cooler passes inside to out on the filters
amphi_sc
23 hours ago, RVerBob said:Priest Grade in a RV, I'm Impressed.
That would pucker my you know what.
Priest Grade BYPASS. The twisty way down on the right headed down (or left as heading up) that adds a couple miles to the route. It twists so much it's pretty much a 2nd gear climb or descent. I wasn't talking about the original route straight up and down! Even in just a car I would still choose the bypass going down...we'll, maybe I'd do the straight descent in my Jeep: 4 wheel low manual tranny downshifted...
jacwjames
1 hour ago, Superpro14 said:Thanks to all, very good info, now the work begins, just on a side note, only return oil to the tank which goes through the filters is from cooler, returns from power steering and some of the oil from the fan dump into the tank , are mixed with the suction of the pump and eventually get through the filters after multiple passes through the system, the oil from the cooler passes inside to out on the filters
Interesting, I would have thought all the return oil would go through the filter. I'll have to recheck mine but I believe all of my return oil does, the suction line is in the middle of the bottom of the tank and the filters are above it.
Attached is a schematic of the hydraulic circuit. One thing I notice is that it does show a 2nd filter and labeled as "Matrix". I do not have that filter or at least have not seen it but will check again.
ktloah
I have 2 A/C cover for sale. If your in MA. perhaps we could meet and save the shipping charges. They are in great condition, color BLACK $75
saflyer
15 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:Sorry I speak in tongues.....working on that.
Bottom LINE. When there is a difference in the rate of travel when on Batteries or SHORE or GENNY Running.....only ONE THING. The Batteries.....AIN'T CUTTING IT. That is why you need to JUMPER. The Jumper will allow you to use the Chassis Battery also. RUN THE TEST THREE WAYS.
FIRST....NO Genny or NO Shore.....HOUSE only. Note or try to time or get a feel for how long it takes to go IN as well as OUT.
Second... On Genny or SHORE. Repeat above. Really NEED a "time value....hopefully not to the nearest TENTH of a second... LOL.
Third... JUMPERED. It that puppy moves like greased lightning...or substantially faster. SOMETHING IS A MISS in the Lithiums or the HOUSE electrical system.
It MAY be a bad CONNECTION.....and that would be in the HOUSE wiring. OR....it may be FUNKY (low capacity...as in DRAINED DOWN) batteries.... BUT...when you supply the FULL cranking amps of the Chassis....that will be MORE than enough to offset the "Problem"
ODDS ARE.....and this is not good news....your have issues. NOW.....that presents a BIG PROBLEM. The ONLY WAY TO FIND OUT is to DRAIN and TEST and then TEST AGAIN the Lithiums. You can NOT carry them, or an ABM or a GEL or a Flooded to a shop and say.. HEY....is this GOOD. That only works for CRANKING batteries.
As Yoda might say... "Luke... Battery 101 must you read....therein lies the KNOWLEDGE of the Force.....seek it out....."
You have to DRAIN and then recharge the batteries......THEN you measure the VOLTAGE. NEXT UP....you have to calculate the DRAIN RATE and then drain them for X hours at Y Amps. THEN....you stop....unhook.....let them recover (all batteries, after the load is removed...will POP BACK or Recover....
THEN...measure the Voltage.
NOW....pay attention to the math and the amps or watts of draw. For EXAMPLE... If you use a 450 Watt Quartz halogen light (Lowes and all sell them).....if the voltage is 120 VAC....then the current draw is 450 W divided by 120 or 3.75 AC AMPS.
NOW....if you are running that off the INVERTER....there is the SAME WATTAGE or ENERGY Consumption. SO....if the Batteries are averaging say 12.5 VDC. 450 divided by 12.5 = 36 DC AMPS. NOW....if you drain the battery for 3 hours.....that is 36 AMP times 3 Hours or 108 AMP HOURS. If you have a 400 Amp Hour bank (that would be FOUR (4) batteries times the Amp Hour Rating...and 100 is TYPICAL for a LOT of 12 VDC Lithiums (assuming you have FOUR 12 VDC in Parallel.....you have 4 X 100 = 400. NOW....with Lithiums....you CAN drain them down to 20%....that is a "SALES POINT"....but for us.....we use 50%. SO...if you have 400 AMP HOURS...and drain down 108 AMP HRS...that is 108 divided by 400 or 27%. SO, if you have GOOD 100% SOC (they charge back up to the FULL...as NEW voltage)...then you have drained them 27%...or they are at a 73% SOC (after you drain them for the 3 hours). If you look at the chart.....then the voltage for 70% should be CLOSE to what they are....they should be a few hundredths HIGHER....you can, if you understand interpolation, calculate that.... Take the 80% VDC and subtract the 70% VDC. Divide that by 10... Then Multiply by 3. ADD that value to the 70% VDC. That is the PRECISE or exact voltage that the Lithiums should be....assuming they are still capable of getting 100% Charge.
The math and the physics are NOT complicated. It is basic laws of electricity since Galva invented the Wet Cell. NOW....if you don't get the right voltage....then....the batteries are either defective or they have been "improperly charged". UNFORTUNATELY.....this is the case most of the time....as the "inverters" are NOT MATED nor doing the proper charging....and then the cells are damaged.
I HOPE NOT....but be aware that is does and has happened.....many times....that is what some folks were "reluctant to purchase replacement Lithiums....". Sort of like only 50% would, according to a national survey....buy an EV again... It happens...
GOOD LUCK...
There will be a chart on the Lithium manufacturer's web page...probably instructions. You have to know HOW MUCH Charge they will accept. As the cells get weaker....they will not charge back up to the original VDC Value.... THEN....you drain them for a specified and calculated time....and measure....after they recover. That tells you what percentage you took out.
If I read correctly....they do NOT have the capacity that they need... OR there may be a high resistance connection. Either way.... YOU GOTTA FIND IT....and the FIRST SUSPECT....ask any RV TECH....is the BATTERIES....COUNT ON THAT....
WHEW! That’s a lot to deal with but I’ll give it the old college try. You sure put a lot into your responses and I really appreciate that. Thanks.
Doug and Nicki
Moderator EDIT
NOTE. There is an ongoing hydraulic fluid discussion. The information requested has been covered, in detail. This nee topic is now merged into the existing one. Also the OP’s profile has been updated for clarity of the MH year and model.
End of Edit
I have read the previous posts about hydraulic fluid choices but have not been able to see the answer to my question. This is fairly simple. My owners manual calls for HD46, which is 20 weight. I am changing the filter and have ISO 32, which is 10 weight. If I use the 32 just to prefill the filter, this will not be a problem, right?
Rikadoo
So as a retired Ford tech, i will add my 2cents worth, in my opinion, one of the finest differential lubricants is the Motorcraft full synthetic differential lubricant! Dont get me wrong it IS NOT INEXPENSIVE $$$, that said, we had installed it in dump trucks, pick ups, and automobiles. Also during my being part of a race team we first used it in our blown alcohol funny car, then after the team moved on to a Nitro funney car, as you can imagine just the shock load on the two of the latter vehicles was tremondious! Unfortunatly as of the 1st of the year my price was over $25.00 per guart🙀 That alone on a retire budget made me seek a less expensive option, i bought this stuff in 2020 and it was like $10.00 per qt, an when your looking at 15 quarts for a diff service every bit helps. Plus the fact that it was Delo lubricant gave me assurance it had quality, as i use there engine oil exclusively in my rig.
Tom Cherry
- FWIW. Not ALL Monaco’s are the same. Early ON, the one pictured here, which is almost 5 Gallons and has the “side” fitting and, presumably, the lower 3 fittings, was used. In later years and model dependent, a smaller, single filter 2 gallon reservoir was used. Sometimes, again, depending on the “PTB”, there was also a pressurerized spin on (think oil filter) ADDITIONAL filter. It always amazes folks. I BELIEVE that the same ISL 425 used as BASE in the 2008 Dynasty does NOT have the additional filter. But the Camelot in 2009 has one.
Conclusion…..GO FIGURE.
The BIGGEST mistake is to ASSUME that every Monaco has the OLDER style large reservoir and that it will be AW46. The owner’s manual was cut and paste.
Monaco Tech Support stated that my manual, with AW46 was in error because the “shirts” never came to the assembly line…. That Monaco had converted to all ATF in the mid 2000’s. It has taken multiple topics and posts and reading manuals…..there ain’t NO RHYME or REASON.
- My manual says AW46. It came (bought it new) with ATF.
- 2008 Dynasty has AW46….think the manual says same.
- Monaco SUPPOSEDLY switched to ATF due to several warranty failures. The AW46 undergoes a “freezing temps” viscosity change….and there have been “blowout” issues in the system. Quite costly. An entire topic addresses this. Temps below say the low teens are most as risk.
- The 5 Gallon reservoir has THREE filters….
- The 2 Gallon has ONE. They are DIFFERENT PN….and NOT interchangeble.
- There MAY be a pressurized Spin ON on some models….and not the “top” as one would think.
- Elkhart didn’t “play by the Corporate Engineering rules. They used MOTOR OIL in at least 2 years….maybe 2006 or 07….Manuals say so…owners have confirmed….NOT Straw (HF) or Red (ATF) colored.
- GENERALLY SPEAKING….it is “Safe and Recommended OK Practice” to use AFT in the HF or Motor oil systems…..but NOT Vice Versa. Many posts debate such as to “totally draining” vs drain the reservoir and replenish with ATF
- TRW recommends replenishing with Transynd or Equivalent. Their long or extended HD OTR rigs come with Transynd….they did no testing…..they have a contingent of Ex or Former Allison employees…. They also saw a MAJOR warranty cost drop when they “summarily” switched over and required Transynd. That was the TES 295 (original) spec. I was told this directly by a TRW tech support and the upgrade to Transynd is documented in their literature.
Benjamin
That's what I'd use in your situation, as long as it's hydraulic fluid in there, not red ATF.
Tom Cherry
It would be helpful to provide the PN or such for the Ford Synthetic gear oil. That way, one could find the specs. Did some googling….and here is a post.
Generic hydraulic pump for fan motor, power steering & hydraulic fluid discussion and questions.
CAT Stephen
Paul J A
Where are you located?
Truck Frame, alignment, or suspension shop is where I would start. It's what they do.
Doug and Nicki
This doesn’t answer my question. My Rv calls for HD46, not transmission fluid.
GoWestMan
That would totally make sense Frank, thanks. I wonder if the last time it went in for repair that the tech hooked up power to it when he was working on power for other components because Ive never seen that light before. Kinda weird having an RV for 10 years with a CB you didnt even know you had.
Paul J A
Use a mixture of 50/50 Acetone and ATF as a penetrating agent. It's amazing.
96 EVO
7 minutes ago, Doug and Nicki said:This doesn’t answer my question. My Rv calls for HD46, not transmission fluid.
Check the color of the fluid in there.
The manual writers and the shop floor weren't always on the same page on this!
Paul J A
On 8/31/2024 at 7:14 PM, Tom Cherry said:WHOA….what you just described is PROBABLY a high resistance connection. Without all the explanations and also seeing the circuits….you have either a BAD Motor (assuming it is electric) or a bad control board or a bad relay. When you have a high resistance connection…and you lose a volt or two….to the motor. It then tries to run….but it has to draw MORE amps to meet the “wattage” or the power needed. On some systems, there is a SLIDE control board…and there is a EXTEND and also a RETRACT relay. Time to start with prints.
Some of the more “exotic” slide control boards have relays on the printed circuit board(s) I would start by finding how power is delivered to the motor. There are two or three types of motors. Some have reversing relays….so the motor just runs backwards and forwards. OTHERS have two sets of windings. So…extend goes to one set….retract to the other. Then…there is a 3 WIRE motor. One is common….tricky little suckers. Then one is extend and the other wire is retract.
BUT….having to PUSH…and “it works better” on AC or Genny”….a classic case of a voltage issue. The old trick. Turn OFF both disconnects. Hook up a jumper between the positives in house and chassis. Then turn back on disconnects. If that slide runs great in each direction and no pushing….you have a VOLTAGE issue and the controller is NOT getting a full 12VDC. The Cranking battery has a bunch. I KNOW. I have a bad house switch…..took me forever to find it. But it and a high resistance connection burned up my hydraulic motor . I put in a selector switch….chassis or house…for the pump. I have been running on chassis for 2 years….then last fall, I found the bad house switch….gonna replace it.
Jumpering will tell you a LOT….easy to do…
Should the Post subject be changed to Slide Extend and Retract Mechanism??
Moderator comment
DID & DONE
Thanks.
Tom Cherry
41 minutes ago, Doug and Nicki said:This doesn’t answer my question. My Rv calls for HD46, not transmission fluid.
Please scroll up to my post….it covers all the aspects and history of “hydraulic fluid and power steering” in a “general” bullet format. This is a synopsis based on 15 years of this topic discussion. Your new topic was merged here….
Redundant postings and information was being posted here that were detailed in the original topic.
Thanks.
JDPenn
I crawled back under today to check the rear end fluid. I removed the fill plug, stuck my little finger in, and had fluid on it. It looked fairly clear with a greenish yellow tint. I cleaned a little sludge off the magnet and reinstalled the plug. I checked all bolts and tightened them all a little. My torque wrench was set to 25. I cleaned up the case some and will monitor for and fresh leaks I feel confident now that my rear end is good for now.
It's a Dana 80, 4 3
Thanks for everyone's comments!
Now on to the next task.
JD
Part # for air intake hose
Steve P
I think I have finally resolved the issue with my air intake hose between the snorkel and the air intake box. It did not go smoothly. In fact, it turned out to be quite the ordeal.
After taking some careful measurements, I ordered a seven foot piece of 6" T-7 thermoplastic hose from Blastgate company for $100.49 incl shipping. As described in my previous post, after receiving it, I discovered the upper snorkel was actually 6-1/8 inches and probably made from a piece of standard PVC pipe instead of being crafted, to match the 6" inlet on the air intake filter box. There was absolutely no way to get the hose to stretch over the snorkel on the upper end. So I went out and bought some air conditioning duct work to see if that could be refitted to accomplish what was needed. The answer was no, and I fell back to my crazy idea of using Flexseal. The liquid Flexseal in a can has a 350DF temperature limit. I figure that's adequate since any hoses I found maxed out at 275DF.
I cleaned the old worse-for-wear hose inside and out with a solution of Dawn and water with a scrub brush, and then the outside completely with alcohol.
After that, I clamped it to a scrap board stretched to full length and coated it with Flexseal. The original plan was to only do the perforated areas, but it became obvious that there were other areas where rubber-coated fabric was weakening or had rubbed through to the helical metal coil, so I ended up coating the outside of the entire hose with Flexseal. The hose is still fully flexible and it re-installed easily. It has lasted 10 miles from storage to the house ( @Tom Cherry - no jinx crossover plz!). I'll see how it holds up after a fuel run, an LPG fill-up, and going in for its annual service. That'll be 50 or so miles.
All said, whether you think I'm crazy, or the distant cousin of Bob Munro, or Joe Joe reincarnated, I'm hoping this lasts for 10 years while I tackle an ARP Fridge Defend upgrade, replacing the Atwood water heater Styrofoam shroud, rewiring the radiator overflow tank sensor, and servicing both my air conditioners... if you live near me and want to hire out, just PM me.
Steve P
Final determination: there are 3 wires about 12 or 10 gauge each, clamped into this beefy ring terminal. Removal of the wire loom exposed the word "Ground" on each along with letters/numbers (see pic). Looks like "(S6-S7)" or (56-57). Does anyone know if these correlate to something on a wiring diagram?
HWH slide bracket snapped off
Greg Coffey
After looking closer I have rollers missing on the chain. My slide being AP27707,, I am looking for a chain replacement on the front end and back end of the slide. The chain is riveted that is in my coach so I am needing chain replacements.
Thanks for all the previous posts as that got me going in the right direction.
Greg Coffey
Rdbreneman
I have the same problem with the jake brake on my 2005 dynasty with 400 ISL engine not working. I have verified the jake brake will work with 12 volts applied at the connections on the valve cover. So Im not getting signal to the jake brake when the armrest switch is activated, even though the transmission downshifts automatically.
Tim, what was the outcome after you dropped your rig off at the repair shop?
Tom Cherry
OK....now come your GRUNT WORK. There are TWO files below. I have them on my Laptop and they appear to be different.....but MAYBE not. They are ORIGINAL Monaco files. The 2008/09 Knight is similar to many other models. If you look on the drawings and look at the USAGE or Models Included....you see a BUNCH.
One set....that I just downloaded....is a jumbled mess. DON'T BLAME US....we just put the FILES that are UPLOADED into the Files here. SO, you have to Rotate.
BUT, if you start to go through each file....particularly the PLUGS or Mating Connectors.....or the diagrams... ODDS ARE. You are GONNA find it. Right now... the "S7" is a bit of a mystery...but Monaco does do a decent job of labeling. SO, you have to go to each drawing....look at what it pertains to....and then find the ones that might be pertinent. THERE AIN'T NO OTHER WAY.
Look carefully at the MATING connector's prints. Maybe one is an "S" number.
You will have to do BOTH FILES...
Please look at the one in the files marked 2009 Neptune Wiring Diagrams. You might, when you have time, be able with your NEWER copy of the Adobe Acrobat to unscramble them....so they are all oriented correctly. My older copy lets me do that....but when I save the new file....they are STILL scrambled or disoriented. Thanks....
I THINK the 90340372 is OK. To be honest... I do NOT know where that came from. I have over 20 different sets of drawings on my Hard Drive...labeled by year. I often will pull or do a PDF Print of certain ones that are frequently used.... It is a LOT quicker than searching.
BUT, I have NO IDEA as to why the 2009 KNIGHT with the prefix file number is different....it LOOKS, when I start to scroll through it. BUT, I don't know why the name is different.
That may sound confusing....but it is what it is. Maybe when you open them up and compare side by side... it will make sense. The file name nomenclature is NOT something that I THINK that I would have done.... but you NEVER know....
Thanks
2009 Neptune Wiring Diagrams (1).pdf 903403772_2009KnightWiringDiagrams-rev1.pdf
cbr046
If the hose is deteriorating I would be afraid of small pieces breaking off and ingesting into the engine.
At least any pieces would be soft and (probably) go through without issue.
- bob
RIPPPA
43 minutes ago, Rdbreneman said:I have the same problem with the jake brake on my 2005 dynasty with 400 ISL engine not working. I have verified the jake brake will work with 12 volts applied at the connections on the valve cover. So Im not getting signal to the jake brake when the armrest switch is activated, even though the transmission downshifts automatically.
Tim, what was the outcome after you dropped your rig off at the repair shop?
My outcome is I won’t take anything I own to Industrial Power again
I took it for them to fix the engine break, fix fan motor leak and check brakes.
They said my engine brake was working fine, and gave me a quote of $13k for a new fan motor and $2 for new brakes.
Since I know the engine brake is not working, I was suspicious of the other items that they said needed repairs. So I took to a shop that works in my other vehicles and they said my brakes still have 5/8” of pad remaining. I bought and new fan motor for $1200.00.
51 minutes ago, Rdbreneman said:I have the same problem with the jake brake on my 2005 dynasty with 400 ISL engine not working. I have verified the jake brake will work with 12 volts applied at the connections on the valve cover. So Im not getting signal to the jake brake when the armrest switch is activated, even though the transmission downshifts automatically.
Tim, what was the outcome after you dropped your rig off at the repair shop?
I’m still working on the engine break. I plan on getting back into it when I get my coach back to Texas in Oct. It drives fine, I just have to stay away from the steep passes. But I’m determined to fix it this winter with a bunch of other items that have been lingering. Let me know if you figure your out. I’ll take any tips I can get. I’m on Garland Tx so if your close maybe we can get it figured out together.
cbr046
If it's a ground . . . . . Maybe time to look around for a hole on hard metal with it's screw missing?
- bob
Dr4Film
I would hope that his filter would catch any small piece BEFORE it has a chance of reaching the engine.
Les Hurdle
4 years ago my 1998 Southward Storm saved the day when our mountain caught fire............ since then bought our 2004 Monaco Cheetah. The serpentine broke recently so it's in the shop. Yesterday the Bridges fire, now 49,000 acres, crested the 'hill' and the old Southward fired up and once again saved the day........... never going to sell old slugger !
windsorbill06
2 minutes ago, Les Hurdle said:4 years ago my 1998 Southward Storm saved the day when our mountain caught fire............ since then bought our 2004 Monaco Cheetah. The serpentine broke recently so it's in the shop. Yesterday the Bridges fire, now 49,000 acres, crested the 'hill' and the old Southward fired up and once again saved the day........... never going to sell old slugger !
Are you evacuating? We're getting tons of smoke but actual fire is way far off from us.
woodylmiller
I'm having an issue with the valve core sticking open when trying to check air pressure. I have pressure sensors on the stem, which of course causes the stem to be compressed at all times to be able to read the pressure. I'm guessing here, but by having this stem pushed in all the time from the TPMS system plus the high heat of the wheels, is the stem being stuck open by the heat and valve seat causing them to stick open? Quite the experience removing the stem and replacing with a new one under 100 pounds of air pressure blasting at you. I have been replacing the valve stem cores with high temp valves from Napa Auto. But there seem to be sticking open as well. Is this just going to continue or does someone make a stem core valve to solve this problem? I have not noticed any debris or foreign objects in or on the stem cores, just stuck open. This isn't all the time, but enough that I carry extra stem cores, but I would like to stop throwing good money after bad. I don't mind the expense, since they are pretty cheap, I just don't care for the hair raising activity of changing them under pressure. Thanks,
Woody Miller
09 Dynasty
Les Hurdle
If you know the area we are 1/2 mile for the Devils Punch Bowl............. we are on active alert to evac. Where are you?
Maybe we should email. leshurdlebiz@gmail.com don't tell anyone 😉
Jetjockey
How much more airflow is there with a smooth versus and corrugated inlet air tube?
Steve P
13 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:I would hope that his filter would catch any small piece BEFORE it has a chance of reaching the engine.
Filter? We don' need no stinkin' filter!!
Sorry, just couldn't resist... I will inspect the filter closely in about 100 miles to see if there are any black bits, and change it since it has been in service at least 1000 miles since the last change (note to self: find your maintenance record in Excel)... running for who knows how long with all the holes the hose used to have.
Ivan K
Do you have balancing beads in tires that could be dusting the seals? I never needed high temp cores on any tires, what kind of temp are you seeing to warrant them?
Tom Cherry
Woody,
What brand of TPMS are you running. I have always used the Pressure Pro. They had a problem many years ago and had to redesign the seals. They retrofitted my older sensors.
I have some experience with tires and such....HS and also being a gear head.
I never leave the TPMS sensors on. Several members always take them off when they return from a trip.
I have never had an issue...but I DO, religiously, every season, check the "snugness" of the Valve Cores...
NOW, I "knew this" as my BIL worked for Eaton and they had a Valve Stem Factory...and he was a Manufacturing Engineer...
The formatting is different and I can't edit out the highlighting....
Valve Cores – the valve core allows the air pressure within the tire and wheel assembly to be adjusted. It must be in good working order with no debris within it.
Debris would not allow the core to seal properly. There are two types of cores used for passenger valve stems; with the main difference being the temperature rating. A standard valve core usually has a black seal with a temperature range of between -65°F (-54°C) and 225°F (107°C). The high temperature core usually has a red seal and has a temperature range of -65°F (-54°C) and 250°F (121°C) and is designed more for use in truck applications.
NOW... I don't TOTALLY agree with the above. Our tires are DANGEROUS when the internal tire temps are above 180 dF. SO, based on the above... the Standard ones SHOULD be OK. BUT, if you think it is heat.....then...as long as the pressure doesn't drop to the alarm point....your tires are "USUALLY" OK.
BUT, I would also warn you that not ALL valve stems are made to the SAME specs. I would purchase a back of SHRADER or EATON (can't remember if they SOLD OUT) brand. One NEVER knows....and this is NOT knocking NAPA or such....what part one is getting.
NOW if all the tires are doing this and you have GOOD cores....then I would be HIGHLY suspicious of the STEMS. Don't know if they were replaced when you put tires on. I am running the BORG stems....They come from a trusted vendor in California. We call them BORG because Bill BORG started the company....and has passed away. BUT, if you GOOGLE BORG Stems.....and order them....they are FIRST or TOP DRAWER. I have had tires put on by 4 shops...and every tech or changer has said... MAN....these are the BEST that I've ever seen. NOT CHEAP. You can also or USED TO BE ABLE TO...order custom stems for your Dynasty. Bill actually had LONG extensions for the REAR. He had molded gromments made for the Monaco Slotted wheels. HOWEVER, my 2009 Accuride are the STOCK ones....and Bill had to have the gromments molded to fit mine. Monaco stopped using the special SLOTTED rims circa 2008....so if you have the SLOTTED rims, you MIGHT be able to actually put on the TPMS without needing the longer stem. We have some members that do that.
FWIW. I got rid of the braided mess. Pulled it all off....and have not had an issue since.
Hope this helps....
Russgh
I had the problem with leaking valve stems when I installed new tires and the dealer installed balance beads. The dealer said that they were supposed to install a protected stem, which I think was just a screen on the valve stem. The dealer replaced the stems. I since replaced the beads with balance masters and no problems since. Not sure of the brand of balance beads but they were pretty cheap.
Tom Cherry
2 hours ago, Russgh said:I had the problem with leaking valve stems when I installed new tires and the dealer installed balance beads. The dealer said that they were supposed to install a protected stem, which I think was just a screen on the valve stem. The dealer replaced the stems. I since replaced the beads with balance masters and no problems since. Not sure of the brand of balance beads but they were pretty cheap.
Based on years of comments here. Cheap BEADS...which is ONLY what the tire dealers stock....are a PITA and folks have been replacing them for years.
The recognized ONLY choice here for at least 10 years has been Dyna Beads. Rave reviews... NO TPMS issues. However the "disks" have been widely accepted.
Personally, the Chief Engineer for Bridgestone Commercial tires, and a Class A MH owner, advised me. SPIN Balance the fronts. Leave the rears alone....or at best....bubble. He said that was after an extensive testing and development program. I have followed that advice. Ride is great. NO ISSUES. So, I'm not a Bead or a Disk fan.
Whatever works and one wants....but cheap beads are just a HIGH PROFIT Margin item. I had to seek out a good shop with a precision Spin Balancer....but would NOT have used their cheap beads....given the history....
Martinvz
I also have a tpms on each tire. I was, like you replacing valve inserts about every 3 to 5 times I checked the pressure with a gauge. And yes, the previous tires had balancing beads.
After replacing the tires and having them spin balanced, I have not had the problem anymore.
Cheapest option is to have the stems replaced with a screened stem as Russ mentioned and either with better beads or spin balancing or other device (the most expensive solution).
Dr4Film
3 hours ago, Jetjockey said:How much more airflow is there with a smooth versus and corrugated inlet air tube?
My opinion is that the smooth wall gives the owner a "fuzzy good feeling" versus the corrugated which has been used for years.
Frankly, it's about air volume versus air flow.
windsorbill06
3 hours ago, Les Hurdle said:If you know the area we are 1/2 mile for the Devils Punch Bowl............. we are on active alert to evac. Where are you?
Maybe we should email. leshurdlebiz@gmail.com don't tell anyone 😉
yep, I know that area. I drive 210, 215, 15 and 138 several times a year.
I'm in Palm Desert, so looooong way from fire. But the smoke is really bad. AFter it leaves here, it heads to Phoenix.
96 EVO
Stay safe Les!
Wildfires can move at incredible speed!
waterskier_1
As an aside, my 2005 Dynasty has mostly Transynd oil in the hydraulic system. This was not intentional, but instead because of a hydraulic pump seal problem that went unattended for years. The transmission fluid leaked into the hydraulic system via the PTO mounted hydraulic pump. It would then overflow the hydraulic system tank pushing out whatever hydraulic fluid was in there, replacing it with the Transynd transmission oil, which then was low in the transmission, and replaced with more Transynd oil. I've since replaced the offending hydraulic pump, and replaced the transmission oil, and filters with more Transynd oil, but didn't bother to replace the hydraulic oil which was mostly Transynd Oil by then.
I think Tom Cherry did some research and found that Transynd Oil was perfectly acceptable for hydraulic oil, at least in the Power Steering pump and system.
Back to your normal programming .....
-Rick N.
windsorbill06
My good friend lives in Trabuco Canyon area of Orange County. He sent me a picture as he was leaving his house yesterday. Scary Stuff. That helicopter and ground crews saved his entire neighborhood. This is the Bridge fire, so no where near me nor Les.
Dynasty Dash Removal
LakeBob
Here's the pics of my dash set up. I have a desk/drawer on the passenger side and a drawer below the center dash panel. The right front corner moves an inch or more when you put a small amount of pressure on it. I believe the support underneath has failed. This results in squeaks when the dash panel rubs against the plastic windshield post cover.
Thanks!
cbr046
I had the same problem. Try a set of filtered valve stems.
Part # for air intake hose
cbr046
My bad. I was thinking the installed hose was after the filter. No problem catching any bits.
A corrugated wall will create small air dams at high flows with each perturbation. If we were drag racing it might be an issue, but we're not so no worries.
- bob
LakeBob
While replacing the magnetic "step out" dash light switch on my lippert steps, I noticed an amber clearance light mounted on the step assembly. This is placed to light up the steps from under the coach. This has never worked, so while in the area thought I would trouble shoot and get this working. I suspected the ground was bad, as it was covered in an inch or two of packed in dirt and road grime. Removed and cleaned the ground, no joy. A black wire from the controller (I believe this is noted as the "not used" wire in the main diagram below and in the inset porch light switch diagram the color is not noted) was connected to the light for power. Connecting my meter to the black wire showed no voltage, regardless of porch or step handle/light switch position. I noticed a purple wire coming from the controller that was not connected. Looking at the diagram below, it appears that the purple wire should be connected to the existing porch or step/handle light circuit to power this step light. Appears that Monaco went through the effort to mount and wire the light, however neglected to connect the purple wire to the porch or step/handle light circuit. I haven't looked at the Monaco wiring diagrams yet.
Am I looking at this correctly? Anyone have experience with a Monaco installed step light?
Anyone have the step light installed from the factory that is actually working?
Ordered a new light and will install and wire up this weekend.
Sorry, didnt think about taking pictures while under the coach today. I'll take a few when installing the new light.
Les Hurdle
Even though there were at least 6 drops of retardant yesterday still flames at 4 am today
As per usual here the suits were days late getting planes in the air........... I've experienced such delays 3 times...... hmmm
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