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Superpro14
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Superpro14
Thanks Tom, the pic from that post shows the suction hose set up as the same as mine with the center hose feeding the filters and heading towards the cooler.
thanks also for the lesson on search, I would never have though of using those two words, thanks again
Tom Cherry
11 hours ago, 96 EVO said:The coolant filter came as standard equipment on Cummins engines in your year.
Later model engines they quit installing them, and it was up to the chassis manufacturer whether to install a remote mounted filter, or not.
Yes. The “exact” year is a moving target by model and year….with many “later” models having a few….as in Monaco “lost” some engines behind, say, several pallets of “throw pillows” and then popped the 1 - 2 YO engines in current production to use them up.
Tom Cherry
The BEST SOLUTION is a TWO FOLD approach. First, you add a direct feed 12 Chassis stud “12 VDC” relays to the HIGH and to the LOW. This circuit has been detailed in many posts. That will add, based on voltage drops, at least 15% to ANY light. The drop is a cumulative effect. You use the HIGH wire to trigger or turn on or close the Direct 12VDC to the HIGH’s and then another relay for the LOW’s.
LED’s work great assuming there is adequate clearance behind the “bulbs” as LED’s have a longer base or sit out further back due to the rear Heat Sink. Some folks add a HIGH/LOW LED light bar rather than fritzing around. Mine would require that as a LED conversion will not fit as the bulbs are almost totally enclosed or protected in the housing. STILL need the relays and you can feed both the existing headlight and rhe LED light bar from the same HIGH or LOW relay you add. Your dimmer switch will last longer. Not switching 20A loads now.
AS A TEACHING MOMENT. I used LED CHEETAH as the two key words in the SEARCH box and then clicked on Everywhere and chose TOPICS.
Then @1nolaguy posts popped up. One was to ID what he had. The second was a HOW TO.
Really good. The new topic guidelines require a search. One has to use various words or a combination…sometimes I’ll use three to narrow it down. LED CHEETAH was my first choice and it gave me all the information.
Thanks in advance for using it in the future….
NOW you know, I did NOT scan…but if he did NOT do the relay upgrade, that is a MUST….it has actually solved issues and folks have used the brighter Sylvania Halogen bulbs and not had to upgrade to LED.
Steve Merritt
Holley makes and sells LED headlights for muscle cars and older pickup trucks that are called retrobright but they are not cheap.
Holley.com I think is the website.
Les Hurdle
The biggest problem is the 'services' do not spend the money allocated for brush removal on such. New vehicles mostly. Fire crew tells me brush has become Peat and will likely burn for days........ which means smoke. Cough cough.
But, the moho stands ready to go at a moments notice.
JimC295
I have not read any tips on this subject and if it is common knowledge I'm sorry but it was new information to me. I'll try to keep it brief. If you catch a slide floor early and it does not have much deterioration from water damage you can use a penetrating epoxy to harden your floor and then repair you issue. I discovered this tidbit of info repairing the ends of the logs on our home in N GA. The site I found was Slide floor repair tip
jacwjames
Is the damage on the inside or outside underneath.
Gaurdian plates are a good fix on the outside. Condensate drain lines
gjh2916
Has anyone ever cleaned the tubing for the condensate drains on the rooftop AC units? looking for the best method, under heavy usage my front AC unit starts dumping condensate on the roof and it never use too. I have had the cover off the unit and the evaporator tray hole is clear, I am assuming there is blockage in the tubing leading to the bottom of the coach. tried blowing it out with compressed air to no avail. Any advise would be appreciated.
Russ R
I blow mine out with air once a year. I do it from inside the coach. I can access mine from inside when I pull down the AC covers. I remove the hose clamp and blow air through.
Ivan K
Combination of compressed air and suction with a shopvac might work. I tried a stiff wire from underneath but my blockage was past an elbow. Being on the road, I pumped vinegar and then draino in it but eventually had to disconnect the flexible line from pan to pex and blow it out from there, from inside ceiling opening. Careful with the pressure setting, would not want to blow out elbow fittings up there in the ceiling.
96 EVO
Vinegar is what I was thinking as well, but haven't needed to try it.
Maybe plug the drains at the bottom, pour the vinegar from the top, and let it sit a few hours.
Paul J A
AS Richard has stated, alignment is crucial to the longevity of the latches.
When installing, align best you can. Tighten up the Male side with the pawl leg. Snug up the female side, Use a Q tip and Put some Vaseline in/on the female latching area and on the pawl . Close / open the drawer a few times. Tighten the 2.
I replaced 3 in 10 years full timing.
vito.a
Usually, it's best to blow them out backwards, from the ground up. You have to find where they dump. Usually by the front wheel well and in the back of the engine compartment.
My front drain lines were burned where they pass behind the refrigerator.
Condensate drain lines
Doug and Nicki
I put the garden host to the bottom of the tube using a controllable nozzle. Shoot water into the tube for a brief second. See what comes out after you stop. I had a lot of black stuff come out. Not sure what it was. After doing this few times, it will run clear. Thak took care of it for me.
jacwjames
The small drain cups mounted on the bottom of the AC is where the blockage might be, but almost impossible to clean out. I had stink bugs in mine when I replaced the AC's.
I have used compressed air from the inside to blow mine out. I take the tubing loose from the T and blow in all directions.
pcallahan97009
I just bought some last month on Amazon. Try entering RV Grabber Catches. My Motorhome uses these for cabinet and drawer latches.
CraigMac
I was replacing my interior lights with LED. When I installed the LED light in my passenger slide out it was working just fine. I messed with the black and white wire to move them out of the way and the light stopped working. I checked the other lights in the slide out and they didn’t work either. The slide still operates so I believe I popped a fuse. I’ve looked where I think it should be and no luck. I’ve looked in my manual as well and no luck. Any help would be appreciated.
JimC295
3 hours ago, jacwjames said:Is the damage on the inside or outside underneath.
Gaurdian plates are a good fix on the outside. 2006 Diplomat PAQ.. Passenger slide out interior lights
MyronTruexCheck your bedroom for a fuse panel.
Time to get a cheap test light or voltmeter. Have you accidentally turned the switch off near the entry door?
SeaLand Magnum Opus Toilet - Wanted
GwarshI've since found where Paul's selling these controler boards and just purchased one... Thanks Paul!
Cabinet latches
saflyerThanks everyone for your responses to my question. This subject really got a lot of interest. My search of Amazon must not have been successful because I did not include “RV” in the search terms. Who would have thunk.
Blinking Norcold 1200 Recall Unit
VinceBI did the search but turned up no results.
Some background: Once in a while, not every time, when the coach gets washed, the recall unit on the Norcold would cut out power to the refrigerator. The light would show constant red and the magnet trick would work every time - been doing that for years with no problems. The recall unit appears to be sensitive to water or moisture.
Fast forward to today where I replaced my water valve as pictured. The hose connection was not 100% tight and was dripping water until I was able to tighten it. So far so good.
While wiping the water from the bottom of the compartment, I heard the unit trip - this time with a flashing red light. I never saw that blinking before. The magnet trick does not work this time.
My questions are:
- Is the unit fried?
- If so, where is it recommended that I can get one somewhat quickly?
It appears pretty easy to bypass. The refrigerator works pretty well and so I'm not ready to replace it just yet.
Blinking Norcold 1200 Recall Unit
jacwjamesI would never ever operate an older absorption fridge without a safety device.
I've heard good things about 2004 Safari Cheetah Headlight Upgrade
1nolaguyTom, Thanks for above as I could not find my own posts on this. NOTE: This unit comes with high and low relays built in so it is plug and play to the OEM harnes plug. Makes it an easy mod. Lighting is tremendously improved in both low and high beam. As an aside, the vendor for this glass lens is great to work with. The original package came as a 2-pack and one of the lens had a hair line crack , only visible when the bulb was held on an angle. I contacted them and after sending a photo showing the issue they sent a replacement without requiring me to ship back the original.
Condensate drain lines
Steve PKinda makes me glad I don't have condensate drain lines, although I would appreciate not having to re-caulk gutters so often, and replace drip spouts... cement fails or tree branches knock them off.
Condensate drain lines
96 EVO13 minutes ago, Steve P said:Kinda makes me glad I don't have condensate drain lines, although I would appreciate not having to re-caulk gutters so often, and replace drip spouts... cement fails or tree branches knock them off.
Ha, no they are worth having.
Mine are all still flowing after 17yrs.
When I'm washing the roof I give a little blast of water into the collection cups.
Blinking Norcold 1200 Recall Unit
HancomanIf it flashes once every second you should be ale to reset. If it flashes faster than once a second you have bigger problems
Blinking Norcold 1200 Recall Unit
Russ RYou can buy it here:
Blinking Norcold 1200 Recall Unit
VinceB3 hours ago, jacwjames said:I would never ever operate an older absorption fridge without a safety device.
I've heard good things about Used Ramco Mirror for Sale
n4248zDriver's Side Ramco Mirror from 2004 Monaco Lapalma. Model 9000 Series (discontinued). Remote Controlled, Heated. $295.00 (OBO) + Shipping
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