Monacoers Daily News

FWIW….and this is the “POLICY” or the Charter/Mission Statement of the SITE.

Posting of recommendations which are in conflict with Monaco’s manuals or schematics or the OEM Component manufacturer’s instructions or documentation can or may be edited so that members are aware of any condition that can or will potentially impact safety and /or cause damage to the motor home.

Based on the fire and personal safety concerns of the Norcold units, purchasing a “used” recall “SAFETY” device is net recommended.  If Norcold will not provide or sell such, then the only other protection or additional monitoring posted is the ARP equipment.  
 

Here is the “search” results using ARP as the key word in “topics”. There are two pages of information. It is suggested that the OP @VinceB PM the members that have the system and are knowledgeable.  Exchanging phone information and direct conversation regarding this is the best and most effective approach.

https://www.monacoers.org/search/?q=ARP&quick=1&type=forums_topic

There is also a complete NORCOLD file using NORCOLD as the key word and selecting FILES from the EVERYWHERE drop down menu.  All the Norcold contact information including phone numbers is in that file.  There are, memory, at least 5 separate documents.

BYPASSING IS NOT ADVISED AS THERE IS NO VISIBLE METHOD OF DETERMINING THE SAFETY OF THE NORCOLD UNIT.

Be SAFE and good luck.  Title has been edited.

11 hours ago, 1nolaguy said:

Tom, Thanks for above as I could not find my own posts on this. NOTE: This unit comes with high and low relays built in so it is plug and play to the OEM harnes plug. Makes it an easy mod. Lighting is tremendously improved in both low and high beam. As an aside, the vendor for this glass lens is great to work with. The original package came as a 2-pack and one of the lens had a hair line crack , only visible when the bulb was held on an angle. I contacted them and after sending a photo showing the issue they sent a replacement without requiring me to ship back the original.

Great.  Thanks.  

FWIW….don’t know exactly how the circuit and the controls work.  It the relays need external fused (whatever the instructions say) Hot Chassis Power, that is great. It would be logical that the dimmer switch is just a “signal” for the mode.  If there is NOT a direct fused input, then adding upstream relays with direct power would be the correct method and the contacts and wire runs and such of the Monaco system causes a severe voltage drop to the actual bulb…

If you get a chance…can you take your original post and your photos and recap it in Word?  We will put this as a “How TO” in the files.

PM  @Frank McElroy  He curates the files and will do the PDF conversion.

Thanks.

This may appear to be sacrilege, but I have replaced a couple grabber latches with ones off the shelf at Home Depot, and I've had no issues with those latches yet. I like the suggestion of using petroleum jelly on them. I might try that.

Dirt Dubbers are notorious for clogging up those drain lines. I installed screens on the output of those two drain lines on my previous 02 Windsor. I have also done it to my 06 Dynasty. Never had any clogging of the drain lines.

So, I have the large hydraulic reservoir tank and it says in the manual that it has to be at operating temperature to check the fluid level. Does the engine have to running to check or just up to temperature? It doesn’t really say. I assume it should be running like an automobile but I’m not so sure now.

Also, I have seen people post that these large style hydraulic tanks hold 55 quarts but my manual says 35 quarts. That would be just shy of 10 gallons so I’m thinking two 5 gallon buckets of Transynd will be enough to charge it out. Im hoping 35 quarts is correct.

A quick fix, take a magnet put it on the left corner area on the light side. After a couple seconds if unit is not bad you will hear clicks and light go off

I used my shop vac attached to the bottom (exit side of tube), then I disconnected the “T” up top from the inside, then turned on vac and went inside and covered the hole with my thumb intermittently. Then opened shop vac to see what came out. So empty the vac before doing this do you can see what you caught. 

My big tank took 2 buckets of fluid without flushing the lines. I stayed with the same fluid and did not consider it necessary to do. I set the level cold and had no overflow when running, don't even know if it ever gets hot.

On 9/12/2024 at 9:37 PM, Malewis11 said:

 I noticed the hesitation as I was going to get the fuel filters changed. Even cooler today with new filters and hesitation was worse.

Are you sure they changed both primary and secondary filters?

Does your engine reach full boost?  (If so ignore above)

- bob

On 9/13/2024 at 8:13 AM, Les Hurdle said:

I note the colour of the dials in the pics are black, mine are 'silver'........... does anyone have a solution for making dials readable when in direct sunlight?  Can't see a thing.

Glass dash aka BlueFire

- bob

Looking at the rust on your tubing, I'd say your cooling unit is just about done!

Does this work on Roadmaster equip?

L

3 hours ago, jmb5369 said:

A quick fix, take a magnet put it on the left corner area on the light side. After a couple seconds if unit is not bad you will hear clicks and light go off

That ASSUMES that the Printed Circuit Board does not have residual  or new “component(s) DAMAGE”.  The OP has stated that the safety device has failed, perhaps repeatedly, several times after being subjected to water or moisture.  Even if the unit responded to the “magnet” reset, there is no guarantee that the device was safe before when it would reset or would it be safe now.

Recommendations regarding “defeating or bypassing” critical safety devices are not appropriate and are subject to editing or deletion.  Please comply with the site rules. This is a personal and fire safety protection device and was provided by the manufacturer in accordance with a known defect that has resulted in lost lives and property destruction…..and NOT limited to the RV itself….

Thanks in advance.  This topic is being closely monitored due to this risk.

Thanks Ivan 

3 hours ago, Ivan K said:

My big tank took 2 buckets of fluid without flushing the lines. I stayed with the same fluid and did not consider it necessary to do. I set the level cold and had no overflow when running, don't even know if it ever gets hot.

You changed filters and put the original ATF / AW46 back in?

I am in the process of troubleshooting my A/C units.  Looking at the drain line from inside, since I have all the returns opened up, I see a nice kink in the middle unit where someone didn't think a little kink in the drain line would matter.  So I'll need to fix that little problem.  Anyway, make sure that someone during care about how they tied up the drain lines.

Woody Miller

09 Dynasty

Follow up:  cleaned all connections with alcohol and a spray electronics cleaner, and replaced the broken plugs and all new couplings.  Fan on middle unit came on, I turned off the power to the units to avoid anything else coming on.  After all the cleaning, checking the fuse marked "A/C" control, I now have no light or display on the thermostat.  Made a cheater cord to test for power and coupled that to the plug that connects to the thermostat.  I have 12.9 on one pair and almost 4 volts on the other.  Unless someone has a different take, I have to think at this point that the thermostat is bad.  I did read somewhere that there is a fuse in the thermostat.  I took it apart but if there's a fuse there, I can't find it.  One tip about taking the thermostat apart, watch the buttons, they fall off very easily and are tough to find on the floor.  Thoughts?

Woody Miller

09 Dynasty

I have tried searching for information but can’t seem to find what I need

does anyone know when they stopped using a point system or where it’s located?

I don’t think this one has points but not sure how coil gets triggered to fire plugs.

unit is in our 1997 Monaco Dynasty and is model 6.5NHMFA11439F Sn L953460175

it was working great but on this last trip it just wouldn’t start. 
I found the LP vaporizer was leaking so I removed and cleaned up the oily residue but had to reuse the gaskets/ diaphragm till I can find replacements or a new Part it’s a Impco model K Onan part no. 148-1022. 
It fired once so it still might be a fuel supply issue but would still like to check spark as well.

thanks in advance and always great knowledge on here.

Greg

35 minutes ago, woodylmiller said:

Follow up:  cleaned all connections with alcohol and a spray electronics cleaner, and replaced the broken plugs and all new couplings.  Fan on middle unit came on, I turned off the power to the units to avoid anything else coming on.  After all the cleaning, checking the fuse marked "A/C" control, I now have no light or display on the thermostat.  Made a cheater cord to test for power and coupled that to the plug that connects to the thermostat.  I have 12.9 on one pair and almost 4 volts on the other.  Unless someone has a different take, I have to think at this point that the thermostat is bad.  I did read somewhere that there is a fuse in the thermostat.  I took it apart but if there's a fuse there, I can't find it.  One tip about taking the thermostat apart, watch the buttons, they fall off very easily and are tough to find on the floor.  Thoughts?

Woody Miller

09 Dynasty

To the best of my knowledge….no fuses in thermostat.  Best way to test.  Take the Thermostat to the front and rear unit.  Here is where the info is sketchy on the Dynasty’s.  Folk have said they do not have the short “cheater” of extension cords that go from the Control module in the roof top portion….supposedly the data cables in the Dynasty was long enough to go up through the Plenum and directly to the female RJ11 Jacks.  If so, make up a data communication cable with the proper color codes or configuration on each end.  Then plug in the thermostat directly.  You can also verify 12 VDC on the controller board….pictures were published recently.  With the thermostat plugged in to either female jack, do the RESET.  IF the thermostat is OK, it will function there.  Obviously you will only have Zone 1….unless you leave the outlet cable in place.  Try it on the rear AC as well.

if it is dead, Northwest RV Supply had a refurbishment option.   Contact them
 

Testing at a unit directly is the only proven method….unless you have special data signal (analog for Voltage & digital for the MPX pair).  

Mine is an external filter so changed that and the hydraulic fluid, it took exactly two 5 gal buckets of NEW fluid. I did not go with the expense of Transynd. 

6 hours ago, Georgia Mike said:

So, I have the large hydraulic reservoir tank and it says in the manual that it has to be at operating temperature to check the fluid level. Does the engine have to running to check or just up to temperature? It doesn’t really say. I assume it should be running like an automobile but I’m not so sure now.

FWIW.  The owner’s manual has the INITIAL FILL CAPACITY.  That is the entire system…..NOT just the reservoir.  The 4/5 Gal Large and the slightly less than 2 Gal SMALL is the quoted, tested and reliable quantity.  Take that to the bank.

13 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

Mine is an external filter so changed that and the hydraulic fluid, it took exactly two 5 gal buckets of NEW fluid. I did not go with the expense of Transynd. 

OK….for clarity.  IT APPEARS that you  do NOT have the two mounting band cylindrical reservoir with the 3 stacked internal filter and the band clamp cover with the dip stick in the top.  These were the most common on the early 2000’s….mostly Dynasty.

if you have square or rectangular tank, which was depicted in the PDF….THEN, that is what you have….but not commonly used….and we know how consistent Monaco was.

Your manual is not available online.  Pictures of your reservoir and also the external filter PN would be great….and will be added to the Parts List. 99% of the posts over the past 15 years….and this usually popped up at least twice, maybe 3 times per year dealt with the two different Nelson cylindrical reservoirs….LARGE & SMALL.

Thanks

Sign up on Cummins Quick Serve which is free. I know it includes diesel generators. You can probably your info from there.

22 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

Mine is an external filter so changed that and the hydraulic fluid, it took exactly two 5 gal buckets of NEW fluid. I did not go with the expense of Transynd. 

That's a load!

Don't think mine would take anywhere near that. I have one spin-on external, and one filter in the reservoir.

40 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

 

if you have square or rectangular tank, which was depicted in the PDF….THEN, that is what you have….but not commonly used….and we know how consistent Monaco was.

Your manual is not available online.  Pictures of your reservoir and also the external filter PN would be great….and will be added to the Parts List. 99% of the posts over the past 15 years….and this usually popped up at least twice, maybe 3 times per year dealt with the two different Nelson cylindrical reservoirs….LARGE & SMALL.

Thanks

Funny that I just checked the level this morning before seeing the post, did not think to take a picture but here is an old pic with 10 gal rectangular canister where the towel is on top of it. Also the big external filter I use for it.

Generic hydraulic pump for fan motor, power steering & hydraulic fluid discussion and questions.
Tom Cherry 13 hours ago