Monacoers Daily News
Welcome to Bill D's Monacoers' Daily News for *|date|*
To view this on the web click here: *|weblink|*. To respond to a post, click on the post title to be taken to that topic on the website.
Please do not reply to this message. You must visit the forum to reply.
Hello Guest,
Here's what the Monacoers have been talking about:
Index
Discussions
MIRIAM
10 hours ago, 96 EVO said:First question I'm going to say both banks.
Second question, I'm wondering about that as well! I see my remote displaying 'Full Charge' often, but it 'always' shows 0 AMPS!
If it were mine, I'd call Magnum tech support and describing what I'm seeing on the remote. Maybe they have an answer for it.
Already handled - I read the manual and verified it was just me happening to 'catch' it just at the right time because we had been out for a while on a sunny day where we had shore and our one panel charging with nothing on, soooo it was just actually full. It went back to float and I haven't caught it full again, but certain that was it...just a first and the screen does show zero for Amps - just flips and photo caught then.....
all is well here and just had another 'first' with just a mild panic and overthinking. 🤣
amphi_sc
Just as another example, here's mine showing full charge with the Aladdin showing solar charge and a slight drain with some leds lights turned on. Not a problem in my mind. As typical, Magnum and Aladdin don't agree on the battery voltage - maybe because of the solar line charging and where the Aladdin ties in to read its voltage. The Magnum never exactly agrees with voltage at the battery terminals either. I just adjust in my head and live with it.
Tom Cherry
1 hour ago, MIRIAM said:Already handled - I read the manual and verified it was just me happening to 'catch' it just at the right time because we had been out for a while on a sunny day where we had shore and our one panel charging with nothing on, soooo it was just actually full. It went back to float and I haven't caught it full again, but certain that was it...just a first and the screen does show zero for Amps - just flips and photo caught then.....
all is well here and just had another 'first' with just a mild panic and overthinking. 🤣
Thank GOD…..this one little nuance had the potential for a saga or posts for the next decade. SERIOUSLY. Magnum, much to my personal despair, has allowed their tech support to deteriorate. NOW….yes, they can read the manuals and yes, they have the benefit of the engineering department for support. BUT, they have no concept of the “real world” and the nuances of what we see here. I still call them to ask a question or understand a particular issue. BUT they are not well versed in the “as we age” aspects of the Magnum. Nor, in particular, are they well versed in how to field test and determine if the remote is malfunctioning.
Miriam, as long as monthly, you verify the setup parameters….you should be good to go. If the parameters change….then that is a sign of a failed or failing remote. The first is… Inverter does NOT turn on, automatically, when 120 VAC is removed….you have to push the “ON” button on the remote.
4 minutes ago, amphi_sc said:Just as another example, here's mine showing full charge with the Aladdin showing solar charge and a slight drain with some leds lights turned on. Not a problem in my mind. As typical, Magnum and Aladdin don't agree on the battery voltage - maybe because of the solar line charging and where the Aladdin ties in to read its voltage. The Magnum never exactly agrees with voltage at the battery terminals either. I just adjust in my head and live with it.
Good show. We all learn. I never worried about solar as it (my lowly 60 Watt OEM) was sort of “there”. But recently on a trip, I started to “watch and learn”. I also started to use the Sunsaver remote. What I learned….with NO internal load…as in NO DC lights on or maybe a few LED’s, my solar was putting out 50% of the rated capacity….and cleaning the panel probably would have helped. But that 2.5X (memory) was way more than enough that the Chassis parasitic and House parasitic loads. And the Sunsaver was reading the SAME voltage on each bank….therefore the Big Boy was engaged and the contacts are good and clean.
Always learning …..
Rikadoo
Dont know much about the propane models, is there a pressure switch that might read “line” presure or the module wont open the gas valve untill the module tells it to. Having only worked on ford propane systems a long time ago does your genny use injectors or throttle body type? I know with ford if the filter is full of oil that the fuel wont flow, aka no start. (was told if the seals on there propane pump go bad there pump oil can load up your tank an cause issues) another area of too much oil in propane can cause is the burner inside the heater, which makes for such a inefficient burn that the output is reduced significantly.
RVerBob
Shout out to Tom Cherry, I could not stay out off the rumble strips, any divits in the road I would crunch my teeth to prepare for the hard hit on left steer tire.
I read a post about TRW poppit (from Tom ) adjust and went to youtube and found Steer lash adjust, followed steps and removed draglink to check play in pitmen arm.
Very little play if any, was kind of disappointed that was probably not my issue, adjusted as instructed and figured I'd keep looking for issue.
Just completed a 800 mile round trip to Traverse Bay and to may amazement no rumble strips and hard fitting left steer gone, the smoothest ride since I,v owned the Coach.
Thanks, another happy camper
amphi_sc
To easily monitor my Big Boy workings, I added a couple of my own displays to monitor the house (top) and chassis (bot) voltages, thus I could tell when it's time to remove the green corrosion. I should build a nitrogen box to purge it of air next time (BTW, it's always "next time" 😁)
drewat2
I block off the vent grill with a piece of cardboard when washing the coach. Hasn't tripped once since taking that precaution
woodylmiller
Thanks Tom. I have two cables at each unit and dangle in the plenum. Currently nothing on the thermostat, no backlight, no display. As luck would have it, the 5 button thermostat is no longer available. Calling NWRV Supply today. If they don't have it, I see MicroAir makes a replacement, though a little pricey. It's both wifi and bluetooth so might make a nice upgrade if nothing else. I'll check for the 12 volts at the unit. Have cleaned everything and all the 3 amp fuses are good. Good advice to check each unit by direct connect to the thermostat. Thanks again.
Woody Miller
09 Dynasty
VinceB
16 minutes ago, drewat2 said:I block off the vent grill with a piece of cardboard when washing the coach. Hasn't tripped once since taking that precaution
So yours was tripping with moisture/water too?
Tom Cherry
8 minutes ago, woodylmiller said:Thanks Tom. I have two cables at each unit and dangle in the plenum. Currently nothing on the thermostat, no backlight, no display. As luck would have it, the 5 button thermostat is no longer available. Calling NWRV Supply today. If they don't have it, I see MicroAir makes a replacement, though a little pricey. It's both wifi and bluetooth so might make a nice upgrade if nothing else. I'll check for the 12 volts at the unit. Have cleaned everything and all the 3 amp fuses are good. Good advice to check each unit by direct connect to the thermostat. Thanks again.
Woody Miller
09 Dynasty
Before I spent ANY MONEY….I would test the thermostat directly on the front unit,,.,using the dangler. If it is blank…odds are….bad Thermostat. From my “catalogued and precise” cranial data base….accumulated over 15 years. 90% is cables or connections. Maybe split evenly between a bad Control Module and a bad 5 button. Mine has been apart….or at least where I cleaned the “button carbon”.
Test the Tstat on all 3…..if all have 12 VDC….and you need to use your cheater to see the 12VDC….then if 12 VDC….from the control and a “blank stare” on the display….bad stat.
Paul J A
I am Selling this Coach for a friend who was widowed this past June. Her Husband was a E. E. Did ALL the maintenance on the coach. Lots of "stuff" that goes with it. Everything works as it should.
2003 Monaco Windsor 40PST. Cummins ISL 370 HP Engine, 102K MILES. Engine brake. Allison MH3000 transmission, HWH air leveling, Onan 7500 generator with 1813 hours, NorCold 4 Door Refrigerator/Freezer with Ice Maker & Norcold RECALL Update Done, TWO Dometic 15,000BTU Roof Airs with Heat Strips., Splendide Combination Washer / Dryer.
Surge Guard Model 34750 Power Surge Protector. 2nd Owner.
***Purchased the coach from Original owner in 2009.***
TWO NEW SONY Flat Screen TV's.
SIX NEW TIRES-6-2024
ALL Battery's are 2 Years Old.
Aqua Hot Serviced 6-2024.
Complete Chassis Serviced in June-2024
Power Water Hose Reel
Power Cord Reel.
Curb Side Leather J Lounge With Drawer
Leather Magic Bed on Drivers Side.
Aluminum Wheels
Solar Panel With Regulator
Insta Hot Water at Galley Sink.
Attic Fan in Private Bath.
Carefree Automatic Power Patio Awning.
Co Pilot Seat with Power Foot Rest.
SONY Xplod
Winegard 1000 Traveler Satellite Dish with Omni Disc.
Blue Ox towing package (we towed a 2020 Jeep Grand Cherokee),
Air Force One supplemental Braking System
TWO Slide Out Trays in Basement.
SCAN GUAGE TANK READOUTS
COLOR Camara Rear Vision
4 Camera System
Central Vac System
BUILD SHEET & Data Cards Available
$49,500.00 ARLINGTON, VA.
ackermanenter@aol.com
FAILED (water damage?) Norcold 1200 Recall DEVICE. Need information & guidance.
Tom Cherry
14 minutes ago, VinceB said:So yours was tripping with moisture/water too?
Always GOOD to block off water intrusion where NOT NEEDED.
Little known (DON’T ASK) FACTOID. Any moisture in the ICEMAKER Junction box will have a detrimental impact on the reliability of the GFCI that is PROBABLY upstream. Just a splash contaminated mine. Took several treatments of WD-40. The GFCI would trip prematurely.
It even, later that season, manifested itself with “dew or condensation” and we lost power on our day trips. Was in Sante Fe after ABQ Ballon festival. Sprayed again and then changed out the 5 YO GFCI. Eventually rewired the circuit properly…..NO UPSTREAM GFCI. Code requires a dedicated NON GFCI circuit for your home refrigerator and same for the Microwave. NOT A SAFETY ISSUE….Monaco laziness….
drewat2
31 minutes ago, VinceB said:So yours was tripping with moisture/water too?
Yes, happened twice before I figured it out. Spent a day trouble shooting only to have a reset the next day after drying out I use a Helium filled Amish unit now. Works really good in hot dry weather, not so good when the humidity is high
Jim Roach
2006 Monaco Dynasty with 2 Fantastic fans, 1 in the toilet room, 1 in the bath/vanity area. Both are controlled by the remote panel with the light switches.
After a few rough roads, and I’m assuming 18 years, the plastic tabs that hold the gear motor in place have broken. Evidently 1 screw was loose and allowed the vibration to break the tab.
Are there parts available for this generation fan? Or will a basic MaxAir fan wire the same so the remote button works? I’ve had the fancy expensive Max Air with hand held remotes, but don’t see the need if it can be hardwired to the same switch the Fantastic fan was.
Suggestions?
Martinvz
It may help if you posted a picture so that any interested party can confirm that it could match.
Tom Cherry
22 minutes ago, Jim Roach said:2006 Monaco Dynasty with 2 Fantastic fans, 1 in the toilet room, 1 in the bath/vanity area. Both are controlled by the remote panel with the light switches.
After a few rough roads, and I’m assuming 18 years, the plastic tabs that hold the gear motor in place have broken. Evidently 1 screw was loose and allowed the vibration to break the tab.
Are there parts available for this generation fan? Or will a basic MaxAir fan wire the same so the remote button works? I’ve had the fancy expensive Max Air with hand held remotes, but don’t see the need if it can be hardwired to the same switch the Fantastic fan was.
Suggestions?
First….
YES….Fantastic Fans sells parts. Contact them. They may use a distributor….did when I upgraded my fans to “rain sensing”. They are the gold standard of vent fans….with no offense meant for the other guy. Most major brands, like Winnebago use them as OEM. I upgraded a feature on those in their top gasser.
Second…
The fans are integrated into the Intellitec MPX system. Look at your prints. The MPX RELAY OUTPUT module is connected to a board with 3 relays. One for each fan. The circuit works from the TOGGLE ON/OFF Module. When you push the Fan ON….(the light is off), there is a constant 12 VDC signal to the relay (Bosch) for that fan. The contacts are closed. This is NOT a cheap “ON/OFF” wall switch circuit. That relay then sends the ON SIGNAL to the fan….and the “auto up” system starts.
FINALLY. The common cause of the AUTO UP failure is abuse….as in, every season, the fan needs to be turned on….whilst standing under it and helping, by turning the manual actuator, the fan “break free”. The rubber gasket will stick….as in it is leakproof…a known virtue of the fans. FF recommends a gentle “silicone” wiping (buy Plumbers Silicone grease….also recommended for lubing the “ball seal and gasket” on many RV toilets). This keeps the gasket supple.
Typically, assisting with the first time season opening is sufficient…plus doing the recommended annual or once every few years wiping down the overhead gasket.
I certainly would repair the fans. They are simple to work on. As a precaution, use the SWITCH CHART in the CPU area and remove the 10A fuse for each circuit.
Good Luck.
grizzly
I bought a house and will be selling our RV but until then we are moving out of it and storing it. It is an 07 Sig. The rv park where we have been is letting us store it and it will be hooked up to power and water. This may be a dumb question but should I store it with slides in or out? Aqua hot will be on in electric mode to keep bays heated underneath and I will have a dehumidifier on inside as well as a small space heater. Just wondering if it matters. Also the water will be on with a heated hose.
DavidL
I would store it packed up. Less spots for critters to enter. And less things to get hit in the storage lot.
vito.a
I would store it with the water off and the slides in.
Is the electrical connection large enough to run the inverter, refrigerator, and Aqua Hot?
96 EVO
I don't even leave my water spigot open when I leave for a few hours.
grizzly
21 minutes ago, vito.a said:I would store it with the water off and the slides in.
Is the electrical connection large enough to run the inverter, refrigerator, and Aqua Hot?
Yes it will be.Regular rv hook up site 30 amp maybe 50
34 minutes ago, DavidL said:I would store it packed up. Less spots for critters to enter. And less things to get hit in the storage lot.
Will be in a rv site in a park
vito.a
30 amp may not be enough for the Aqua Hot with two elements. Remember a 50 amp connection is actually 100 amps.
Malewis11
@cbr046 good question on the filters. I read a lot of threads where that wasn’t done, but I actually stood next to the mechanic when he changed mine so I’m all good there. I may need to backtrack on what @96 EVO said about RPM changes. I finally got some cockpit time this weekend and decided to do a couple of things differently before the mountains of Northwest Arkansas. I didn’t pull my F150 and I also decided to treat the fuel with Diesel Kleen. On the way up, I still noticed the hesitation and tried to keep RPMs up, which helped a little. I noticed that the transmission is doing a very poor job at maintaining RPM. It’s not downshifting as I would expect. The vibration was reduced some and I seem to have better power. The way back I noticed that there was less vibration as long as I maintain above 17 to 1800 RPM on the hills. After another hour I noticed that I could maintain six gear without vibration on fairly significant grades and lower rpm. This kind of leads me to believe that the injector cleaner may be of some help and maintaining proper RPM is currently a manual process for me. Not happy with the Allison downshifts. I’m going to change the air filter and run out this treated tank of fuel. Hopefully I’ll see continued improvement.
grizzly
21 minutes ago, vito.a said:30 amp may not be enough for the Aqua Hot with two elements. Remember a 50 amp connection is actually 100 amps.
Have used 30 amp before with no problem
Tom Cherry
A little more info would be great. Your profile lists CA. Where are you storing it and what is the anticipated overnight lows….plus the daytime highs?
Monaco tech support says or said that one is “generally” OK as long as the night time temps are in the mid 20’s….assuming the usual daily radiant sun or heatup. Most, me included, use RV antifreeze. I did have one minor issued…a cracked toilet valve…when it was down to zero and the day time highs were in the mid teens. But, I am also under a carport shelter and have class A rigs on either side….thus no real daytime warming,
Personally. I’d air purge the plumbing…..then dump the two tanks….and also the fresh tanks. Put on the house bypass connection so the filter bowl is empty. Then pump in or follow the Winterizing in the manual. I’d opt for the Camco RV antifreeze. Leave the cabinet doors under the sinks open and the refrigerator open for air circulation.
Read, carefully the storage section of the manual. Dehumidifier is not needed if you worry about freeze protection. My windows are closed and I have never seen any signs of mold or mildew…..after 11 years of doing this.
Absolutely NO to any water hookup. The pump needs to be used to put in the RV antifreeze and that protects it. You then do a final dump of the tanks…..but leave a smidge of the purged RV antifreeze there. You set the washer to wash….water temp in middle. With Pump on….fill for a few minutes. Then put selector switch into DRAIN…it will cycle a few times….3 minutes tops. Repeat once…..good to go.
Pull the icemaker filter off. Purge the icemaker cavities….or use a paper towel and wick out the water. Be sure to pump RV antifreeze out the line…use the cutoff valve. Do NOT put RV antifreeze in refrigerator…leave the line open.
Use a swatch of “pantyhose” and a zip tie. Put that over the open icemaker line to prevent insects. I use a plastic garden hose plug over the back wash hookup.
Pull out the fresh hose….and allow it to drain. Power reel it in….let it drain….then plug or use the pantyhose to cover the inlet. Leave the drain valve open under the fresh tank. Any residual will evaporate.
Thats the drill. This is what the dealers use. PERSONNALLY….for your SIG….do this.
TURN OFF both disconnect switches. That shuts down the Board 6 which runs or controls the BIRD or Big Boy charging. Leave the cables hooked. Turn OFF the inveeter….push the power button on the Magnum….or remove the Negative. That TOTALLY kills the inverter….
ALL interior 12 VDC lights should be off…
I’d purchase a PulseTech SC400 4 amp charger….assuming you have flooded cells in both banks. Hook that up to the Chassis and order a 36” #2 gauge (3/8” terminal holes) cable from Amazon. Jumper the positives from Chassis to House…..hook up the Pulse. They will be maintained and charged and desulfonated.
IF you have AGMS…..on both banks…..order the XC450. If AGM one bank and flooded the other….order BOTH….use XC400 on flooded and XC450 on AGM. NO NEED for a jumper…
grizzly
I will be going and checking on it periodically as I will be about 2 miles away and I will also go in and use it occasionally but not very often,. It very rarely freezes here maybe down to 29 or so for a couple of days. Highs won't be over 70 and only in summer. I will be doing work on it from time to time so that is why I was going to leave water hooked up. Question is does it matter if water lines have pressure if slides are in? Need dehumidifier up here because it is by the coast. The fridge will be left on. I am only expecting to store until Jan as a potential buyer would come get it then. Will be in it and using it until the end of Oct
JulieS
We are replacing the flat wiper seal on rear curbside BAL accuslide cable driven slide. Ordered the new flat seal (TH250) from unigrip. Applied as directed, but was VERY difficult due to the rubber being SUPER stiff. After it was set, attempted to close slide and the friction of the seals are causing it to stop part way in. I can press the button again and it will close, with audible stress on the motor. Same thing happens trying to open back up. We trimmed ½" off the width thinking that there would be less friction and started the process all over. Same problem. Seems to be a problem with the seal flipping back and forth appropriately. Possibly also the drip rail on the sides of slide may be affecting the seal flipping? Slide worked perfectly before. Thanks for any help,
Julie S.
08 Scepter 42 PDQ
Tom Cherry
Leaving the water hooked up, as easy as it is to unhook, would be, in my mind….a recipe for disaster. The refrigerator is your call, but most shut off and let them air to prevent mold.
A pressurized water system is a catastrophic disaster just begging to happen.
Turn off and UNPLUG all the Home Entertainment components. UNPLUG the Microwave to prevent stray currents. i just added the Belkin cube surge suppressors to the icemaker and microwave outlet. I left BOTH unplugged also.
Slides should be in.
I’d disconnect one of the small control wires to the BIG BOY. Then use the 36” jumper between positives. Mine stayed that way for at least 18 Months. Frank M has the copper tubing jumper on his Big Boy. That way, a Charging failure due to the #6 board is averted.
I’d run a #12 or #14 gauge extension cord from the BLOCK heater to the rear bedroom engine hatch….and run my dehumidifier off that. Again….the Magnum is a point of “shutdown”.
Purchase both ANT and MICE baits. One on BOTH sides of the pass through bays. At least 3 or 4 inside the MH. Cabinet doors still open for warm air circulation during the day.
We’ve over the years…seen about every failure…..and if you want to be totally secure and conservative….then the above is the most foolproof.
The only thing you have to do….make sure the extension cord is pulled inside the MH during your quarterly drives.
You drive until the Tranny gauge matches the Engine….then turn around. You run the AC about half way out….then switch to Heat Pumps. All set to be on 100%.
Fire up the Diesel Aquahot when you turn around and set all zones for Furnace.
Exercise (read Battery 101) the house batteries at least 3 cycles every 4 - 6 months.
martinsimba
Got bulbs that seem to fit, however the step well lights do not come on. Can't find a switch and they do not come on when the door opens or when we turn on the porch light. Any thoughts? Thank you!
Replaced AC Capacitor - Duo-Therm For It Is Blank
DBRV.0
4 hours ago, woodylmiller said:Good advice to check each unit by direct connect to the thermostat.
Woody,
I am a visual person, therefore for me, a diagram is worth at least a thousand words. I did a little work on my 3-air conditioner system, and am now starting to understand some of the wire control concepts. Here is a concept drawing that I made up of what I believe is the HVAC control wiring. Because of ceiling decor, I have never looked at the interior air intakes of AC1 and AC2 to assess actual wiring, so what I have drawn is a guess. One thing I know for sure is that topside on the roof, each Air unit has 2 RJ11 data / phone cord connectors that are interconnected, meaning each is identical in function. Perhaps this diagram would help you to diagnose your setup. The RJ11 has 2 wires in the cord that present 12VDC, but I am not sure where that 12VDC is "injected" into the RJ11 cords.
Tom mentions to connect your thermostat to AC1 or AC3. You may understand his reasoning through the diagram.
If anyone can correct my concepts, I would welcome the information!
- Jeff
Tom Cherry
13 minutes ago, DBRV.0 said:Woody,
I am a visual person, therefore for me, a diagram is worth at least a thousand words. I did a little work on my 3-air conditioner system, and am now starting to understand some of the wire control concepts. Here is a concept drawing that I made up of what I believe is the HVAC control wiring. Because of ceiling decor, I have never looked at the interior air intakes of AC1 and AC2 to assess actual wiring, so what I have drawn is a guess. One thing I know for sure is that topside on the roof, each Air unit has 2 RJ11 data / phone cord connectors that are interconnected, meaning each is identical in function. Perhaps this diagram would help you to diagnose your setup. The RJ11 has 2 wires in the cord that present 12VDC, but I am not sure where that 12VDC is "injected" into the RJ11 cords.
Tom mentions to connect your thermostat to AC1 or AC3. You may understand his reasoning through the diagram.
If anyone can correct my concepts, I would welcome the information!
- Jeff
Thanks. Only a little explanation
. The older Dynasty MAY NOT have had the remote sensor on Zone 1. i have “messed” with a few. The 09 Patriot Thunders DID have a remote. Otherwise, the Internal sensor in the Thermostat is the sensor for Zone 1.
Without pulling the prints, the routing is probably correct. BUT supposedly Zone’s 1, 2 and 3 also redundant WITH 12 VDC lines. Dometic says only ONE controller needs that. The Zone 4 hidden controller did not, in the earlier years (2006 - 2008) have a 12 VDC line.
We have one recent example, supposedly measured by a member, of the Bedroom Zone 3, with NO 12 VDC. Obviously Monaco never pretended to be perfect…but they DID intend to send the same (one fuse) 12 VDC power to the three (or two) rooftop units…
This is cool….it may show up again…. LOL….great job…
waterskier_1
This is a difficult question to answer. My first instinct was to respond that we had absorption refrigerators on our houseboats from the 1970's that were still functioning when we got out of houseboating in 2017, so figure 45 years and still going. But there are several differences. The houseboats don't experience near the shock and vibration that a motorhome does. Ours were generally operated for 6-7 months, mostly continuous (except for defrost cycles) each year, and then not used while in storage for the remaining months. I don't know the "wear and tear" on startup and shutdown, since there are few moving parts. Another difference was we only operated on propane. We never used electricity - some boats didn't have a generator, and the 1970's outboard engines have little for extra battery charging. But most importantly, they were not 1200-series boxes. Indeed, we had two 8-cf boxes, side-by-side, in the galley, but I think that was likely due to the 12-cf boxes not being available in the 1970's.
The primary failure point on the 1200-cf Norcold's (does not apply to Dometic) is the 110 VAC electric heaters that are used when the refrigerator is powered by shore power. As Tom stated, there were design flaw, mainly the fact that Norcold implemented the 8-cf cooling unit in the 12-cf box, and tried to increase cooling capacity by increasing the BTUs to the cooling unit. This translates to over spec'ing the 110 VAC heaters, which contributed to compromised coils and leaking, and in come cases, fires.
As Bill mentioned, I also replaced my 1200 cooling unit with an Amish unit - in 2015. It is still working fine, both on propane and 110 VAC. But this cooling unit was properly designed.
So, the answer depends on if you are specifically asking about the original 1200 cooling unit because of the design flaws, or are you asking in general about absorption units. Also, are your concerns mechanical (vibration & shock) related, or general "wear-out". I'm not sure there is any data collected on any of these scenarios, so I guess it really doesn't matter.
I wouldn't replace my Norcold with another absorption unit. Today, with the newer inverter (DC Controlled) compressors, and higher energy efficiency, I'd go with a new residential unit. I would not even consider an Amish conversion, unless I intended to operate on propane 85% of the time. Even then, I'd likely go with new residential, for a far less cost (not including installation modifications, if necessary) and get a unit with state of the art insulation in the box at the same time. You can't replace a 1200's door seal, without replacing the whole door (almost as much as a new residential refrigerator).
-Rick N.
VinceB
5 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:Always GOOD to block off water intrusion where NOT NEEDED.
Little known (DON’T ASK) FACTOID. Any moisture in the ICEMAKER Junction box will have a detrimental impact on the reliability of the GFCI that is PROBABLY upstream. Just a splash contaminated mine. Took several treatments of WD-40. The GFCI would trip prematurely.
It even, later that season, manifested itself with “dew or condensation” and we lost power on our day trips. Was in Sante Fe after ABQ Ballon festival. Sprayed again and then changed out the 5 YO GFCI. Eventually rewired the circuit properly…..NO UPSTREAM GFCI. Code requires a dedicated NON GFCI circuit for your home refrigerator and same for the Microwave. NOT A SAFETY ISSUE….Monaco laziness….
Yep. Been there too. My GFCI is right above the bathroom lav - installed new GFCI and rewired properly: no problem since.
waterskier_1
If it were me, I would winterize it. I winterize and unwinterize my coach 4-6 times a year. I live in Colorado, and it does get cold enough to freeze. I keep the coach in my yard, so it's close, but I also have to pay for the electric to heat it. I can keep it at 40°F in -10°F weather with the Aquahot on one electric element (I only have 30 Amp service). But I'm not sure all the nooks and crannies where water might settle, would remain warm enough. I have the larger Aquahot 600D with two electric heat elements, only because the previous owner "thought" he'd winterized well enough and it didn't get "all that cold", and froze the boiler. I see no reason to have water on when you have it in storage. I've gotten to where I can unwinterize in about 15 minutes, and winterize in 20 minutes or so, if it isn't freezing and snow blowing. I always store mine with the slides in, and awnings in. I don't want my toppers ripped off by a burst of wind, and it's much easier to heat (or cool) with the slides in.
-Rick N.
VinceB
All good stuff posted above of which I am virtually entirely read up on. But it appears that I need to ask my questions a different way.
IF your Norcold 1200 cooling unit failed, how many days would you guess that it was operated? And how old was it? Are you on the East coast or West coast?
DBRV.0
1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:it may show up again….
Thanks for the encouragement, but you scared me into cleaning up the routing to improve clarity.
- Jeff
Jim Roach
Thanks,
I’ll search for parts.
We’re fulltime and I actually just did all the roof vent rubber gaskets with silicone spray a few weeks ago. We had a ping pong ball size hail storm that wiped out the vent covers and the AC covers. While replacing those covers, I cleaned and lubed everything. The bathroom vents get a work out daily, between 2 showers and using the facilities, I bet the toilet room fan gets opened 4-5 times a day. I expect the motor to wear out or the lift mechanism to fail, but the screw tabs is a new one.
wamcneil
Hi all,
I'm getting ready to tear into my splendide washer/dryer for the first time in 2003 dynasty. Cold water valve is running continuously. Tried banging on it with a screwdriver handle and it helps but doesn't stop.
It's in a cabinet at the side of the rear closet with limited access. See picture.
I'm assuming that I'll be replacing at least the cold valve and maybe also hot while I'm in there. Wondering what might be the best approach to access the valves.
I believe the top of the washer will come off with just a few screws at the back. If I can get the top out of there, might have enough access to mess with the hoses and electrical connectors through that side door and over the top. Kinda tight, but might be slightly easier than other options.
If that approach doesn't work, what's the best plan?
- Slide the unit out the front? I can't easily see how the unit is bolted down. What's involved in getting the thing loose so it can slide out toward the front?
- Remove the shelf above the unit? The carpeted shelf above the splendide is resting on a ledge on 2 sides and has pocket holes on the 2 other sides. Has anyone taken this shelf out? Is it as simple as removing the pocket screws?
Thanks y'all!
Walter
2006 Executive AH Zone Blowers
Jim Roach
Bringing this topic back up….. It sounds like my 2006 Dynasty Diamond IV is set the same as “det944”. But what he didn’t mention was what thermostat controls the basement heat? I know there is the independent rotary style thermostat under there in the Aqua-Hot compartment but what controls the blower? Or is it a one speed On/Off?
Jetjockey
Had a fantastic fan fail . Company sent me a free replacement. Some years ago.
Jim Roach
Next repair I need to tackle is the Kitchen vent. 2006 Dynasty Diamond IV floor plan. The vent and fan are fixed mounted- not a standard vent set up. It has the aluminum rain cover on the roof and the plastic sliding cover on the inside. Ours has had a switch replacement with it being wired to pull air in…. Thats easy enough to swap the wires so it can exhaust correctly. I’m assuming this is a 110v assembly. Has anyone replaced this with a Max Air or Fantastic vent? Something that doesn’t sound like a jet engine over your head when you’re cooking? Is there 12v wiring already run in the ceiling? Could I pull a positive wire off a ceiling light and use a remote- Max Air style?
Are there replacement slide covers available?
Jetjockey
Our experiences with new production appliances is dismal. Hesitant to put such in place of original. Have replaced 2 dryers ,3 freezers,2washing machines in 10 years in the house. New is not necessarily better .
Tom Cherry
24 minutes ago, Jim Roach said:Next repair I need to tackle is the Kitchen vent. 2006 Dynasty Diamond IV floor plan. The vent and fan are fixed mounted- not a standard vent set up. It has the aluminum rain cover on the roof and the plastic sliding cover on the inside. Ours has had a switch replacement with it being wired to pull air in…. Thats easy enough to swap the wires so it can exhaust correctly. I’m assuming this is a 110v assembly. Has anyone replaced this with a Max Air or Fantastic vent? Something that doesn’t sound like a jet engine over your head when you’re cooking? Is there 12v wiring already run in the ceiling? Could I pull a positive wire off a ceiling light and use a remote- Max Air style?
Are there replacement slide covers available?
If it is 110 VAC, then switching wires does nothing….it is a DC motor that reverses when you change polarity. The odds of getting a 12 VDC in the Monaco ceiling is slim and “forget it”. All your lighted switch panels or such are Intellitec MPX. That is a Multiplexed signal. They feed the CPU in the back. Then there is a circuit or a 10 Amp run for each array of puck lights or overhead fixtures. Same deal as your Fantastic Fans….but the relays are energized by the Modules.
If you tap in and somehow found a lighting circuit wire….and then threw in a supplemental inductive load on it…..not gonna be pretty. Mega issues and sometimes replacement parts are scarce…..
Suggest you search the files or pull your prints in the back of your owner’s manual. Find the vent fan….and then see what powers it. Also look at the various harness layouts. AC in the MH is ONLY, per code, run with Romex….Monaco usually used 12/2WG. Monaco usually ran #12 wire for DC circuits…. BUT if you overload one of the MPX Modules…..it gets unhappy. Technically, it has ten 10 A circuits, but the diversity factor only allows 70 A total. We have had members with issues from faulty ballasts and they were acting like big resistors…..and that shut down an entire module….so 10 circuits went out.
Unless you fully understand the normal 12 VDC and 120 VAC and the MPX circuits….doing mods can be dangerous as well as costly.
Prints are your best source. Find the circuits…..see how it was done. If someone “hacked or cheated”, then it is WISE to carefully understand or perhaps “undo” that…as many members have had issues…..and had to be creative just to recover….
Tom Cherry
2 hours ago, Jetjockey said:Our experiences with new production appliances is dismal. Hesitant to put such in place of original. Have replaced 2 dryers ,3 freezers,2washing machines in 10 years in the house. New is not necessarily better .
Interesting. We use Consumer Reports before purchasing. We also have surge suppression on any appliance that has an LED display. The local large and well established appliance company REQUIRES a cube type suppressor on refrigerators….and suggests that on microwaves and dishwashers and washing machines.
Our Microwave is on borrowed time, but am on the second cube…as the first one “fell on its sword” and the MOV’s died. Our washing machine is maybe 15 years old….and works fine. We’ve been in the house for 33 years. All new appliances when we moved in. Put in our own over the stove microwave. On second microwave, second washer and dryer, refrigerator and dishwasher. We have frequent “blips” and out “MONSTER” surge suppressors for the TV’s will cut out and protect.
The inherited freezer is a 2005…with NO LED….and our Kurieg is ancient….also on a surge suppressor.
BACK ON POINT….regarding the Norcold…..There is NO CONSUMER REPORTS for the RV industry. WOULD be great is there was... BUT the history is all out there as well as here....…and we have folks that posted here and and also on IRV2 and many of the google hits link back here. We probably have the most complete history on the issue….as the members here were savvy and astute when the whole thing came crashing down.
The only “factual” data is with Norcold and protected by Attorney-Client privilege. Norcold admitted there was a problem….made settlements according to an approved plan or the recall. Past that…..there is no recourse, unless there was PI PRIOR to the recall and safety device.
There is no magic formula based on years or nights or hours or when manufactured or such. Hypotheses abound and folks will state as an absolute fact, their gut feel….sometimes misinformed.
Thats all that can be said….the post is “rhetorical” with no method or formula…..
Lets move on…..this is a redundant subject…..
One has to weigh their own personal safety and their “risk tolerance” and decide what to do…if anything….
THANKS……
woodylmiller
I connected the thermostat to zone 1, front A/C, and still no display or back lighting. Connected the cheater cord and got around 4 vdc. Now, since the units do connect in series and if 12vdc is used in a series circuit, wouldn't that relate to 4vdc across the 3 loads? Current is the same, but voltage is divided between the loads in a series circuit. At least that's how I learned it in my electrical and electronics courses.
I checked with parts store in Eugene, and they have zero 5 button thermostats and about $150 to repair the 5 button, if it's fixable. A new replacement from Micro Air is $240. So the dilemma is $150 for a rebuild on my thermostat or $240 for a new thermostat with wifi and bluetooth. Even if my thermostat is good/repairable, I wouldn't mind the upgrade to the Micro Air thermostat. We are leaving in two weeks to head south for the desert to avoid the white stuff this year. So I don't think I have time to send my thermostat out, get repaired and sent back to me. Sounds like I'm going to go with the Micro Air. And if that doesn't solve the problem I'll keep digging for a solution. We go right past the REV service center in Coberg, OR. So we'll see.
DBRV.O, I like your diagram, and I agree with it.
Thanks guys,
Woody Miller
09 Dynasty
Ivan K
Doubt you get anything free since acquired by Dometic but if you only need the motor housing with tabs, ebay or etsy has a replacement copy for $15.
Russ R
My 2003 Windsor it is held down with just 2 L-brackets in the front behind the lower cover. Not sure if you can get it out the front. Mine is next to the rear closet and came out through a removable panel into the closet. I couldn't get it out the front. The opening is to small.
Jim Roach
Ivan- Thats what I found- Don’t know if its original parts or a knock off but one is on its way.
Tom Cherry
8 minutes ago, woodylmiller said:I connected the thermostat to zone 1, front A/C, and still no display or back lighting. Connected the cheater cord and got around 4 vdc. Now, since the units do connect in series and if 12vdc is used in a series circuit, wouldn't that relate to 4vdc across the 3 loads? Current is the same, but voltage is divided between the loads in a series circuit. At least that's how I learned it in my electrical and electronics courses.
I checked with parts store in Eugene, and they have zero 5 button thermostats and about $150 to repair the 5 button, if it's fixable. A new replacement from Micro Air is $240. So the dilemma is $150 for a rebuild on my thermostat or $240 for a new thermostat with wifi and bluetooth. Even if my thermostat is good/repairable, I wouldn't mind the upgrade to the Micro Air thermostat. We are leaving in two weeks to head south for the desert to avoid the white stuff this year. So I don't think I have time to send my thermostat out, get repaired and sent back to me. Sounds like I'm going to go with the Micro Air. And if that doesn't solve the problem I'll keep digging for a solution. We go right past the REV service center in Coberg, OR. So we'll see.
DBRV.O, I like your diagram, and I agree with it.
Thanks guys,
Woody Miller
09 Dynasty
From the TOP. There are TWO PAIR... EACH IS SEPARATE and do NOT know that the OTHER exists. One pair is the 12 VDC, that comes from the Control Module. Every Control Module....assuming that Monaco actually "WIRED" it correctly gets 12 VDC.
OK....back to basics. Go back to PAGE 1 of this topic. There is a picture of the Control Module....and the 12 VDC terminals are marked. If you do NOT have 12 VDC coming into the FRONT module....then, that MAY be the problem. BUT, if THEORY, from the drawing...which is a "template" for the actual prints... If ONE unit has 12 VDC and the Data Communications Cable is connected (and is wired or color coded) properly....then the entire system works.
Now to address your voltages. No one, to my knowledge, has ever commented on the MPX pair of the two pair data cable. THEY ARE SEPARATE... THEY DON'T KNOW EACH OTHER EXISTS (pardon my simplicity). You MUST have 12 VDC on the single pair.....and, you can can do a continuity test on the Positive and Negative in the picture or on the board....with two of the leads in the cable. Past that.... it is the THERMOSTAT that then takes over. ONCE you have 12 VDC into the Thermostat....then it does a "handshake" with the other modules. As LONG as there is 12 VDC coming to each module....via, in Zones 1, 2 and 3....then ANY ONE of them can provide power to the "system". Zone 4 gets its JUICE or 12 VDC from the 12 VDC leads in the cable.
SO.... TEST for 12 VDC up front..... Then test your DATA CABLE CHEATER CORD...assuming that you have the same LEADS ..... that is why you need to do a continuity test on the board and have your cable plugged in. You MUST have continuity or voltage to the same PAIR of RJ11 Cable...
OK....now if the Thermostat is defective....then even though it has 12 VDC.....and it is "dead", then it can't send out the Handshake signal. NO HANDSHAKE SIGNAL....NO WORK.
My next step would be to verify the front voltage....on the Control Board. Then...if that is OK.... MOVE ON. Go to Zone 3. Do the same. Then Zone 3. If the Thermostat does NOT WORK on any of the modules....and you have 12 VDC on the two terminals (see the pictures)....then... ODDS ARE...you have a bad Thermostat.
NOW... Herein lies the dillema...and folks think that this is ANTI MICROAIR. It is REALITY. Microair know less about how the system works that we do here. They are "COPY CATS". They used a stock setup....and followed the Dometic prints. It is called REVERSE ENGINEERING...and it very common in the electronics industry. They cracked the DIGITAL CODE for the MPX signals. They ran a full array of tests. They then recorded or decoded the MPS codes. SO.... that means that when the AC is on in Zone 1....and the temperature is satisfied....then there is NO MPX signal to the Control Board. It is just there...in standby. BUT....when the set point is exceeded....and the thermostat sends out a signal.....that MPX signal is a complex (maybe Hexadecimal) code. The single pair of MPX leads works BOTH WAYS. SO, the Dometic sends out a code that says... START the compressor....as in... the temperature that the thermostat reads (the internal one....assuming there is NO remote on zone 3) had exceeded the set point. THEN....the control module decodes that signal. NOW, here is where it is sometimes confusing. A MPX digital signal can go both ways....
SO....in essence... The Thermostat is constantly monitoring Zone 2 and Zone 3 set points. ONCE the remote sensor says "HEY....we just turned on...." or we just closed a circuit, the Control Module is notified....that is ANALOG. Like closing a switch. THEN, the control module sends a signal to the Thermostat.....WE NEED COOLING... The Thermostat "verifies" and then says... OK.....here is your TURN ON SIGNAL. Every signal going up and down or back and forth on the single pair of MPX wires....is a DIGITAL ONE. It is NOT ANALOG....
NOW.... Microair just "cracked" the code. They made an exact COPY of the codes. They know every code that the Dometic Thermostat has internally....that includes the outgoing as well as the incoming. SO....then, they designed or copied or duplicated or whatever.....the Dometic Thermostat. THEN, they added the features.
They are smart folks.....and Dometic probably doesn't like them... BUT, when it comes to helping out a member. THEY ARE POWERLESS or perhaps CLUELESS. They can NOT tell you....and they, twice, stated that in a phone conversation....TWO SEPARATE TECHS.... They depend on the Dometic CCC (the original MPX system) or the CCC2 for the NEW Penguin II MPX codes to work. If there is a lack of signal or a defective component....like a cable or a control module....then they are totally OUT OF IT. We have had repeated cases where there was an issue. Then the members called Microair. The first response....if still in warranty....we'll ship you a new one.
One member was a bit "frustrated" as the lack of knowledge of Microair. He posted and we walked him through testing and swapping the control modules. TURNS OUT....it was a faulty FRONT Zone 1 Module. Otherwise, when he got his NEW (maybe refurbished) thermostat....NO JOY. He ordered a new unit....swapped it out....set the DIPS and all was well and his OLD Micrair work worked.
WE or I....as I have been called out....brusquely... am NOT a Microair HATER. We solve problems. NOW....as to REV... GOOD LUCK. The BULK of the RV techs know little about Microair. That is a fact. They know very little about the Dometic. OTHER THAN the basics...which we KNOW. They test and swap and call Dometic... What is the FIRST THING THAT DOMETIC ASKS... Does this system have a Dometic CCC or CCC2 Thermostat? IF NO....then they are really not very helpful.... WHY....obvious. YES, they will tell the techs to swap and do all the things that we do. There is NO MAGIC HERE. You have to test and verify and make sure that the cables or the connections are OK. If the Thermostat (either Dometic or Microair) doesn't work....then they (Dometic) will say... REPLACE with a new one. OPPS....there are NOT any new ones....as you found out.
Bottom line....and I apologize for the depth of this response. The Dometic is a very sophisticated system. It depends on all components and connections and inputs working. UNFORTUNATELY....if it is the 5 Button Thermostat....then there are few options. Ordering a NEW Microair....without testing the the old thermostat on all three units...and having voltage to each is the ONLY way to verify. OK...if it fails on Zone 2....then the ODDS ARE...it MIGHT be the Thermostat.
BUT... until all the troubleshooting is done....then that is the time to invest in a new thermostat....and Microair is the only game in town. BUT, finding a good tech....that even knows how the Domeitc works is hard....much less how the Microair is supposed to work and how to test and verify.
THAT IS THE REAL WORLD.
I personally do FEEL YOUR PAIN...but after maybe 100 of these events....dating back over 15 years.....the same things apply. The Connections are first. Lack (cut wire or fuse) of 12 VDC is next. Then most like the thermostat....but it COULD and has been more times than one would expect....the Control board.
Good Luck... and keep posting....but this post sums up the entire Dometic HVAC system....which may be presented at the Gathering...
Thanks for reading.....
Jim Roach
1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:If it is 110 VAC, then switching wires does nothing….it is a DC motor that reverses when you change polarity. The odds of getting a 12 VDC in the Monaco ceiling is slim and “forget it”. All your lighted switch panels or such are Intellitec MPX. That is a Multiplexed signal. They feed the CPU in the back. Then there is a circuit or a 10 Amp run for each array of puck lights or overhead fixtures. Same deal as your Fantastic Fans….but the relays are energized by the Modules.
If you tap in and somehow found a lighting circuit wire….and then threw in a supplemental inductive load on it…..not gonna be pretty. Mega issues and sometimes replacement parts are scarce…..
Suggest you search the files or pull your prints in the back of your owner’s manual. Find the vent fan….and then see what powers it. Also look at the various harness layouts. AC in the MH is ONLY, per code, run with Romex….Monaco usually used 12/2WG. Monaco usually ran #12 wire for DC circuits…. BUT if you overload one of the MPX Modules…..it gets unhappy. Technically, it has ten 10 A circuits, but the diversity factor only allows 70 A total. We have had members with issues from faulty ballasts and they were acting like big resistors…..and that shut down an entire module….so 10 circuits went out.
Unless you fully understand the normal 12 VDC and 120 VAC and the MPX circuits….doing mods can be dangerous as well as costly.
Prints are your best source. Find the circuits…..see how it was done. If someone “hacked or cheated”, then it is WISE to carefully understand or perhaps “undo” that…as many members have had issues…..and had to be creative just to recover….
I completely forgot about the Multiplex….. If there set at 10am loads, then even with all LED lighting, a Max Air or Fantastic that is sticking shut would draw 14-16 amps (been there/done that).
If it’s a 120 VAC fan, then a quieter bathroom exhaust fan would even work. Little metal work for brackets and done.
wamcneil
Thanks. I got it figured out.
The top doesn't come off. But even better, the middle section of the rear panel comes off pretty easily and that gives good access to the valves at the top. I have room to go in through that little door in the closet and there's enough room to work behind the washer.
I also discovered that the hot water valve hasn't worked in many years! Apparently, the hot valve started leaking at some point in the past and the previous owner just shut off the manabloc hot water feed to the washer. So definitely replacing both.
Supposedly samsung valves DC62-30312J & DC62-30314K are good replacements. They look about the same in pictures. But the original valves have straight threaded connections that are finer than garden hose threads. Might be replacing the inlet fittings if the new valves are standard garden hose thread.
Will update after I get the valves swapped.
Tom Cherry
12 minutes ago, Jim Roach said:I completely forgot about the Multiplex….. If there set at 10am loads, then even with all LED lighting, a Max Air or Fantastic that is sticking shut would draw 14-16 amps (been there/done that).
If it’s a 120 VAC fan, then a quieter bathroom exhaust fan would even work. Little metal work for brackets and done.
BINGO. YES, one can do a LOT. BUT, without more info.... The ONLY 12 VDC lines in the roof are for lights and HVAC and a SPARE set for solar...unless used....and up front....most likely... a SAT hookup. OTHER THAN THAT....NADA
BUT....if one tapped into the MPX line....one would then need a separate RELAY and switch. One would also need to figure out HOW to use a common line....to switch on a fan....as well as control the lights. NOT impossible....we have folks that are talented...but it would take quite a bit of doing.
AGAIN....how is it powered? What do the prints say? Take it from there...
vito.a
The large kitchen exhaust fan in Dynasty, Executive and Signature is a Kool-O-Matic. Kool-O-Matic made both 12V and 120V fans but I think our application uses 12V. These fans were used in high end RV's like Foretravel and Wanderlodge. Unfortunately, they went out of business in 2006.
These fans move a LOT of air. You could replace it with a MaxxFan but it wouldn't move the same amount of air.
Be careful with the plastic inside cover as they also are no longer available.
Post on replacing with a Fantastic fan: Splendide WD802M water valve access
wamcneil
Well, this is curious... The fittings on the motorhome are standard garden hose thread. But the valves on the splendide are finer thread. The fittings were just screwed on hard and deformed the plastic threads a bit. Not sure if this was original monaco or if the valves have been replaced at some point in the past.
Curious to see what comes on the new valves. The pictures look like garden hose, but some of the reviewers complained about the threads being wrong.
96 EVO
Only thing I can think of is dusting the seal with talcum powder to try and make it slide better, but the first rain will remove that.
The original wipe seals are quite soft and flexible 🤔.
Jdw12345
We purchased our coach 3 years ago and one item I serviced after our purchase was the air drier desiccant filter/cartrage, I had decided that I would service the air drier in 3 years regardless of mileage. I’m a curious kinda guy in regards to how things work and what makes things work and what’s in there!
So today being our 3 year anniversary of ownership I changed out the desiccant/filter and decided to cut it apart to see what was in there!
I tried a standard filter cutter but it didn’t have a tall enough cut to get below the crimped end so I had to use a air grinder to finish the job, so here are the pictures of today’s adventure.
I use only Waco desiccant cartridges.
You can see the moisture on top of the cartridge internal mounting plate.
The tool that didn’t work.
A fair amount of moisture.
It appears to me that the incoming air goes up the center and then works its way through the filter and desiccant and purges to the outside.
The desiccant.
Empty desiccant container and I believe that’s the air filter.
Assembly broke down.
Tom Cherry
6 hours ago, JulieS said:We are replacing the flat wiper seal on rear curbside BAL accuslide cable driven slide. Ordered the new flat seal (TH250) from unigrip. Applied as directed, but was VERY difficult due to the rubber being SUPER stiff. After it was set, attempted to close slide and the friction of the seals are causing it to stop part way in. I can press the button again and it will close, with audible stress on the motor. Same thing happens trying to open back up. We trimmed ½" off the width thinking that there would be less friction and started the process all over. Same problem. Seems to be a problem with the seal flipping back and forth appropriately. Possibly also the drip rail on the sides of slide may be affecting the seal flipping? Slide worked perfectly before. Thanks for any help,
Julie S.
08 Scepter 42 PDQ
WARNING. Get rid of the seal. If there is so much friction that the motor stalls, then the cables will be stressed. Take off the seals. With the slide part way or almost all the way in, put your hand behind the wood and feel, carefully, the cable. Run your fingers or hand slowly towards the back edge of the slide…where the wood is attached. The cable has a “swaged ball” on the end….that drops into a slot or bracket. Repeated stress on this slide can cause the cable to “splinter” or unravel.
BEEN THERE….DONE THAT….IT IS UGLY. I have a 2009 Camelot. Same as the Scepter….and the 2008’s are identical. The lower cable….on the “front” side or edge of the slide frayed. You have to replace it. You do NOT want it to snap off. I had issues where the top crown molding and the top of the slide were “scraping”. I had added Guardian Plates under the plastic rollers as the underside was being damaged. Monaco had not properly fitted the crown molding. Under warranty, it had to be removed and cut down or made thinner…. That fixed the popping noise. BUT, even the thin metal of the Guardian Plates raised the inside slide finished top piece…so, once again,,..they were an “interference fit”…. I was on a long trip and had to hand work the upper piece and waxed it. TOO LATE.
The stress on the two pieces of wood, fighting for the same space….with no clearance messed up or stressed a cable. OK…I’ll fix it. Ordered a new BAL cable and a hydraulic crimper. Watched the videos. OPPS, it ain’t gonna come apart that easily.
I knew a master tech….yes CW does have them. He had had to fix the same slide. It was close to $1,300 a few years ago. He and his helper had to totally strip off the wardrobe and TV and all the finished wood….just to gain access to that lower front cable. Remember there are FOUR CABLES for RETRACTION snd FOUR for EXTENSION. Only ONE of mine was frayed.
BUT….I NEVER EVER had the motor under the stress that is described. It MOVED and popped when the slide was pulled in….but never stalled.
MY ADVICE…if the seals are stressing the motor to the point of it stalling….that is way more force or an issue than mine….and mine popped at least 10 or so of the strands in the cable. So….with the slide almost in….use your hand….carefully as the steel strands are a hazard. Fix the issue…and HOPE you don’t have a splintered or stressed cable end. Check all four….use a phone and take a picture or a mirror or a ‘scope spy camera”. You do NOT want to totally strip off the finished wood and drawer ans such….TRUST ME ON THAT. I watched them for a while…and realized they KNEW what they were doing. I know how to do a LOT of things…but replaces of one of the cables…..ain’t in my skill set.
I had had the “BAL Mobile tech” put on a new side seal….just a few weeks before. It never has flipped right….but i use my awning pick to clean it up.
Good Luck….
Jim Roach
Dug into the archives- there is a wealth of info there! Thanks Tom for pointing that direction.
The Kool-A-Magic is a 12v unit. That makes swapping it easy, and eliminating another roof obstruction for solar.
det944
Attached is the manual description of the bat thermostat and heater. Aqua hot must be on in either 110 vac or diesel burner mode.
2006 Dynasty Diamond IV Kitchen Vent
Tom Cherry
3 minutes ago, Jim Roach said:Dug into the archives- there is a wealth of info there! Thanks Tom for pointing that direction.
The Kool-A-Magic is a 12v unit. That makes swapping it easy, and eliminating another roof obstruction for solar.
Learning to search…and also “understanding and appreciating” the power of such….good to hear. Spread the word.
THIS is why, we the staff, enforce the ONE TOPIC….ONE PROBLEM rule.
Glad my advice helped…fix and report, here of course, what you did.
Jim Roach
Thank you all for the Great information here! New owner of a 2006 Dynasty with the 2000 series system. It almost works as it should except for the following-
1st issue- I cannot locate the sensing unit. I need to adjust the unit to bubble level- level. It’s drifted out over the years. I’ve looked on the ceilings of all the bays but cannot find it, dropped panels, I know how to adjust it, just can’t find it.
2nd issue- the system will pop off air, from 5 to 20 seconds and then the compressor will run to relevel us. This occurs several times a day. I understand the unit wakes and checks for level every 30 minutes, etc. The 6 packs have been rebuilt and don’t bubble at this time.
Any suggestions?
Admins- i can start a new topic if necessary.
Thanks,
1nolaguy
Sure Tom. Currently traveling post- Hershey show but will do this once we get back home.
VinceB
5 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:Interesting. We use Consumer Reports before purchasing. We also have surge suppression on any appliance that has an LED display. The local large and well established appliance company REQUIRES a cube type suppressor on refrigerators….and suggests that on microwaves and dishwashers and washing machines.
Our Microwave is on borrowed time, but am on the second cube…as the first one “fell on its sword” and the MOV’s died. Our washing machine is maybe 15 years old….and works fine. We’ve been in the house for 33 years. All new appliances when we moved in. Put in our own over the stove microwave. On second microwave, second washer and dryer, refrigerator and dishwasher. We have frequent “blips” and out “MONSTER” surge suppressors for the TV’s will cut out and protect.
The inherited freezer is a 2005…with NO LED….and our Kurieg is ancient….also on a surge suppressor.
BACK ON POINT….regarding the Norcold…..There is NO CONSUMER REPORTS for the RV industry. WOULD be great is there was... BUT the history is all out there as well as here....…and we have folks that posted here and and also on IRV2 and many of the google hits link back here. We probably have the most complete history on the issue….as the members here were savvy and astute when the whole thing came crashing down.
The only “factual” data is with Norcold and protected by Attorney-Client privilege. Norcold admitted there was a problem….made settlements according to an approved plan or the recall. Past that…..there is no recourse, unless there was PI PRIOR to the recall and safety device.
There is no magic formula based on years or nights or hours or when manufactured or such. Hypotheses abound and folks will state as an absolute fact, their gut feel….sometimes misinformed.
Thats all that can be said….the post is “rhetorical” with no method or formula…..
Lets move on…..this is a redundant subject…..
One has to weigh their own personal safety and their “risk tolerance” and decide what to do…if anything….
THANKS……
Back on point: I'm just asking a simple question. It appears that this is lost somehow. I don't understand why this is a problem or how I ruffled feathers.
I don't see a reason for debate - the facts are what they are - the data is what it is. This in not about risk tolerance - yes, we all know that it is just a matter of time before it WILL fail. POINT TAKEN.
The purpose here is to approximate the lifespan of a certain system. I would think that information would be a benefit to those that read these forums who have not yet made the decision to swap out their refrigerators. The readers here might be motivated to avert a disaster if so informed. Is that a bad thing?
Are we here to help fellow owners or not? I think we are.
My intent is about collecting data. It is not redundant nor rhetorical. Engineering people seek data. I'm just trying to collect data. I don't understand why this is so difficult and why there seems to be so much opposition to collecting that data.
I'll restate my question:
IF your Norcold 1200 cooling unit failed, how many days would you guess/estimate that it was operated? And how old was it? Are you on the East coast or West coast?
VinceB
I changed my water filter today - the one under the sink that also goes to the ice maker. Documentation says to change it when the water flow decreases.
Pulled and installed a new filter - date on the old filter was 11/2014.
Out of curiosity, I cut open the old filter and got quite a shock. Lots of black - old charcoal maybe? Don't get it on your hands: it doesn't come off easily.
I've never seen a new one cut open so I can't say for certain what they look like when new and unused.
Anyway, here are some pix for your reading pleasure and FYI.
Romeo84
Was always curious as well. Doesn't seem that bad after 3 years. Nice job
Please do not reply to this message. You must visit the forum to reply.
This message was sent to you because you opted in for Newsletters at Bill D’s Monacoers.
To unsubscribe Guest click here:Unsubscribe here
We welcome your comments and suggestions for our newsletter. Please send comments to newsletter@monacoers.org
Copyright © 2024 Monacoers, Inc. All Rights Reserved.