Monacoers Daily News
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Here's what the Monacoers have been talking about:
Index
Discussions
Tom Cherry
Hard to tell from the filter if it is a “proprietary” style….as in a filter element made for a certain brand and/or model. Many Monaco’s had such. By the same token, many Monaco’s used the “universal” 5 GPM whole house filters…available almost anywhere.
Filters and filtration have received many posts or been covered in various topics over the years. The consensus of the discussion is
- Use the lowest or the coarsest level of filter. Due to the low CG pressures and also some pump pressures, the high or ULTRA filters significantly reduce the flow and pressure….to unacceptable levels.
- Activated charcoal filters are recommended if you camp where municipal water is supplied. That “tones down” the over chlorination that most municipalities provide. If the CG has “distasteful” water (sulfur, iron, etc), these also help.
- If there is no taste or smell issues, then the “Foam” filters are considered as the best choice. They are tyoically the lowest level, but they will absorb many contaminates such as “iron”….these are the “in solution” type…copper probably also fits.
- Members have spent considerable money on large ultrafiltration systems….only to find out that they were virtually non functional….as were the special elements for the Monaco filters.
- Filters do NOT remove “minerals” or other contamination. Many members have installed RO or Softeners…. Search the topics for results and/or information.
- Many members….no idea of percentages…like myself have decades of experience with home or private wells. We are not “accustomed” to overly chlorinated water….therefore, the lowest level of “filtration” using an “activated carbon” element is the best alternative….a matter of personal taste.
- Read the manual for details and instructions for winterization using RV antifreeze. I THINK my manual warns against leaving the filter “in place” for sanitization or RV antifreeze. Monaco provided a bypass section of PEX. When winterizing, that bypass is installed via the “winged” or tri prong, hand tightened fitting.
- Due to the potential for bacterial contamination, it is good practice to replace the element annually….
jegall
I have a Cummins ISL with a bad ambient temperature sensor ordered one but the post office lost it . My question is can I drive a short distances 15 miles to the tire shop I have an appointment in the morning.
JulieS
We have ordered a new seal. Checked cables and they look good! Thanks for the info! Hoping someone has replaced this seal and can let us (and others) know what worked for them!
Dr4Film
The leveling sensing puck is mounted to the ceiling in one of your storage bays which could be hidden with an accessible cover. I believe mine is located on the driver's side hidden behind a cover in the first large storage bay.
The system when in Auto-level mode will release air to level, FIRST. Then when there is no longer enough air in the main tanks it will then use the HWH compressor to re-level.
If it is releasing air, is it because you are no longer level due to an air leak? Have you actually watched the HWH control panel to see exactly what it is showing and doing each time?
Tom Cherry
Typically, this site was designed for specific questions. Of course, there are some “campfire” or rhetorical question or subjects that come up. While trying to moderate and keep the mission of the site intact, there are always questions as to “what to do?” or “What is your experience?”.
Unfortunately….when these cross into areas of “personal safety”, then the “call” as to moderation and the extent of such gets tricky.
We discourage and have (memory) moderated comments on “gee…my 12 year old tires have good tread and look new….is it safe to keep using them?”. That may be a touch of cynicism or a bit of hyperbolic sarcasm….but it DOES happen.
Then, the discussions and posts take on a “campfire” tone…. Yes…maybe some points are made…but when personal safety is at stake….as in “should I keep running my aged out tires?”, then the staff makes a judgement call.
So, along those lines….and to keep this in the context of “my own personal curiosity”….which is assumed NOT TO IMPACT or PLAY THE ODDS on a Personal Safety decision….a poll has been added.
Members can participate and answer the “simple” questions….but comments that might be misconstrued or are biased towards continued use of a know, defective personal safety issue, can and will be moderated.
Therefore, let’s use the poll….and see the results.
IF a member feels strongly, one way or another, concerning the continued use of a failed Norcold, then, please use the PM or MESSAGE option and respond, offline, to a member(s).
Thanks for understanding the concerns and the seriousness of this question and why, even offhanded comments, might as well as have been, in the past…MISUNDERSTOOD. We, the staff hold personal safety as a priority and having to continually edit or post disclaimers is a tedious and seemingly unnecessary burden.
Many “facts” quoted here are taken, perhaps out of context, from other sites….and frequently, far too frequently, are 100% WRONG and have caused damage to Monaco’s. Long time contributors often “catch” such and alert the staff.
Lets move on….use the poll and not require more moderation…..THANKS.
Tom Cherry
18 minutes ago, JulieS said:We have ordered a new seal. Checked cables and they look good! Thanks for the info! Hoping someone has replaced this seal and can let us (and others) know what worked for them!
Don’t know if this still exists. A few years ago, BAL Accuslide, had a local, mobile tech, that REV used for their products. I was at a major repair center in Elkhart and they called in the tech and he replaced both. Now, were they perfect? NO, but they were OEM and had the “holes” prepunched. Most repair shops use “generic” and will “cut/slit” the seals where the OEM is designed for the cables to be loosened and threaded.
Maybe you need to pursue OEM seals….???
Dr4Film
Everpure doesn't list a 3k0942 filter on their web site. What did you replace it with?
Jim Roach
23 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:The leveling sensing puck is mounted to the ceiling in one of your storage bays which could be hidden with an accessible cover. I believe mine is located on the driver's side hidden behind a cover in the first large storage bay.
The system when in Auto-level mode will release air to level, FIRST. Then when there is no longer enough air in the main tanks it will then use the HWH compressor to re-level.
If it is releasing air, is it because you are no longer level due to an air leak? Have you actually watched the HWH control panel to see exactly what it is showing and doing each time?
This is the only HWH unit I can find. It doesn’t have what the book is calling for with the 4 lights and the adjustment nut and screw. I may be looking for something bigger than it actually is though. I’m sure I have leaks, just need to figure out how to access the underneath area. Not as skinny as I used to be.
Defrost blower motor won’t cut off
Monaco06
My defrost blower motor that’s behind TV will not cut off even with Coach not running.
Thoughts?
Dr4Film
@Jim Roach If you don't have the HWH 2000 Manual I have attached it. Look for the section that talks about the Leveling Sensing Unit.
Rikadoo
It depends is the engine blowing a lot of black smoke? I wouldnt as it will dilute the engine oil. What are your symptoms to the discovery of the bad IAT sensor?
jacwjames
From memory my replacement filters are good for 700 gallons and mine services both the ice maker and the kitchen faucet. I change mine annually since we don't full time.
Never opened one of the old ones up but it does look like carbon of some sort.
Just installed a whole house Carbon Block filter in the house, this is a 4"X10" filter and it recommends changing every 3 months ~7000 gallons. I am on well water in a farming community with a farmers field within ~100 ft of my well. My wife was complaining that the dogs won't drink the water if it sits in the bowl overnight. The Carbon Block filter is capable of removing a lot of nasties. We'll see if it works, I didn't tell my wife I installed it ~1 month ago and her complaining has subsided (well at least complaining about the water😄)
Jim Roach
46 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:@Jim Roach If you don't have the HWH 2000 Manual I have attached it. Look for the section that talks about the Leveling Sensing Unit.
HWH 2000 Series Air Leveling System Ownr's Manual.pdf 542.44 kB · 1 download
I have the manual, I just cannot locate the sensing unit. I understand how to adjust it once found. Big box/small box? Something inside the module I attached a pic of? Shoe box size or smart phone size? I’ve dropped all the ceiling panels in all the bays and the above HWH box is all I see. There are other ECM’s, brain boxes, etc but nothing looking like the above.
Monaco06
Thanks for simple fix. Day 1 of owning this coach. Much to learn.
gjh2916
On 9/16/2024 at 6:03 AM, Floyd4949 said:Has anyone tried .095" string trimmer line?
I've had success using it on automobile sunroof drain lines on my Mini Cooper.
Used trimmer line from the top down and all kinds of black stuff came out bottom. Only time will tell if this corrected the problem but I am sure it will. Thanks everyone for your responses.
Dr4Film
According to the manual, the sensing unit is located inside the control box.
Jdw12345
A couple of additional things that I forgot to mention, we’ve put about 24 thousand miles on the coach since I changed the cartridge/filter last, I drained all the air from the tanks before I started swapping out the cartridge, after I changed the cartridge I started the coach and rolled back under the coach and watched the first discharge of the air dryer, seemed to be a fair amount of moisture getting purged out so that was interesting!
All my years of being in the trucking business I didn’t take the time to cut a cartridge apart but I specked my trucks with Bendix AD9’s, they’re simple and effective air dryers but it’s more labor intensive to service them, I changed the cartridge out yearly just prior to winter on the trucks, don’t know if you can even order the AD9 on new equipment today, a bit easier just screwing on a cartridge on the new style dryers. I would be interested to see an aftermarket cartridge cut apart to see if they have any differences. I’m kind of an air dryer cartridge snob in regards to manufacturers parts and cartridges. I did install the Wabco Oil Coalescing cartridge, not the Waco filter listed above, lol! Jmo.
Tom Cherry
16 minutes ago, jacwjames said:From memory my replacement filters are good for 700 gallons and mine services both the ice maker and the kitchen faucet. I change mine annually since we don't full time.
Never opened one of the old ones up but it does look like carbon of some sort.
Just installed a whole house Carbon Block filter in the house, this is a 4"X10" filter and it recommends changing every 3 months ~7000 gallons. I am on well water in a farming community with a farmers field within ~100 ft of my well. My wife was complaining that the dogs won't drink the water if it sits in the bowl overnight. The Carbon Block filter is capable of removing a lot of nasties. We'll see if it works, I didn't tell my wife I installed it ~1 month ago and her complaining has subsided (well at least complaining about the water😄)
Sort of off topic, but i was responsible for drilling over 100 monitoring and/or pump and treat wells in several states as part of my “Environmental Director” and site remediation duties. The Carbon Block is actually a pressed or molded filter….ala the “solid foam” concept. It is a activated carbon “dust/fines”. Supposedly more efficient for removal of organics…..volatiles, petroleum, pesticides, herbicides, etc. The manufacturer “sets the rules” on replacement…..some lower than your 7,000 gallons….many in excess of 15,000 gallons. If I were in your situation, I’d contact the county or state Board of Health. They often have certified labs that will analyze samples.
BE AWARE. The EPA sampling requirements for organics is a bit “rigid”…(what…a GOV REG OVERBEARING?)….but protocols MUST be followed. Many times the collection containers have stabilization chemicals pre packaged or in the container.
More importantly, the collection procedures often require a “sterilization” step…for the collection container as well as filling and sealing the sample container. WHY? The state of the art equipment will measure in PPB (parts per BILLION)…with some claiming…PPT (TRILLION)
So, just picking up a jug left over from “spring drinking water” might give false results.
BUT, based on the potential for carcinogenic organics…..testing by a high level and stare certified lab is the only REAL way to know…..so….you test directly after the recommended “purge or run off”…..then….after the results…..you can then make the call.
Installing one and periodic changing doesn’t hurt…and even if there is no “smell” or other evidence….probably a good idea. But most well experts recommend Chlorine treatment when in doubt as the initial treatment.
My Professional Geologist well guy helped me install a “bleed valve” so that a portion (say 20%) of the pump output is dumped or bled back into the vent of the well. This helps eliminate bacteria…(iron specifically) and keeps the water much fresher and also “aerated”. It also improves the pump life as the pump will run for maybe 60 to 90 seconds AFFTER a line or faucet is closed. That allows for cooling down of the pump. Pump and Accumulator manufacturers now have complex digital or CPU controllers that regulates and also ensures purer water…as well as increased pump life.
MEANWHILE….we return to our regularly scheduled programming….
Michael Powell
Just a heads up mine filled the tub up with water..... The door would not open i was finally able to get it open and got a bath!!!!
I did find out if this is your problem all you have to do is get a wet vac and suck the water out the drain hose..Then the door will open...
woodylmiller
Thanks Tom. Plenty to think about. And as stated, it's complicated. Add to that is the constant up and down from the roof. Got all returns exposed with all the dangles. All couplings replaced. All connections cleaned and worked back in and out. 12vdc at the thermostat, but no back light or display. So when first attempting to check to make sure the A/C's were working, zone 1 came on with no issue. Moving to zone 2 and nothing, no display but the back light was on. So went to work cleaning all connections. Went to thermostat and now I have nothing, zone 1 no longer there along with the other 3. No Display, no back light. But 12vdc present, as well as about 4vdc at the thermostat plug. A/C control fuse, good. All 3 amp fuses in the units check good. I have not checked for 12vdc at the control boards in the units; back on the roof I go today to check that. If I follow correctly then if the control boards have 12vdc then, the connections are good, then another head scratcher will come to be.
One thing I noticed, and I don't think it's the problem since the system had worked without issue until now. The RJ connectors on the roof did not always match the color code next to it. Copper is copper and insulation color doesn't matter. HOWEVER I MATCHED the existing plug color cord on the ends that I replaced. So the fact the Monaco didn't seem to care sometimes about how things went. I had one the units were they, Monaco, did not plumb my aux air pump for leveling correctly which caused the pump to run all the time. The fix by previous owner or repair shop was simply to removed the fuse to the pump. Fortunately I have data cable tester so that will be another thing to check, I haven't to this point since I copied the color code on the existing plug (I was wearing a 30x magnifier when checking and repeating color code). I only had to replace 3 of the RJ plugs, all 6p4c.
So today I check for the 12vdc on the boards and go from there. Also, I agree with about MicroAir who claim to be plug and play, which rarely happens in my case.
I have no respect for the "new" REV. I will reserve that feeling for the guys in Coburg who to date have been the only shop to work on and fix the dreaded Kongsberg MPX "brain" for us. EVERY shop that I tried, including M&M in Ohio(?), said the system could not be fixed. Are control boards still available for these units?
One last thing; the 12vdc voltage source. My schematics for the system is a little confusing. The A/C control circuit located in the MPX board in the rear wardrobe is, that my 12vdc for the units? The fuse is clearly marked "A/C Control" and the fuse is good. As some have said Monaco chose different places to get the 12vdc. I like a good challenge but due to the weather changing I'm up against the clock. And that usually means spending money for tech's when I can usually do all this stuff myself given enough time. I've got a roll of 4c telephone cable around somewhere in my "stack of stuff", and CAT cable does not contain red, black, green and yellow conductors, not that color matters as long as continuity remains good. But I might just pull in all new cable while I have every thing topside and inside opened up. And I can just here a tech somewhere saying the colors of the CAT conductors are wrong, they need to be the RBGY colors. WRONG shop.
Thanks again, good conversation and very helpful,
Woody Miller
09 Dynasty
Tom Cherry
“We” suggest that all new MH owners spend at least an hour or two….per day…LOL…. Reading each section or chapter of the owner’s manuals. Conservatively, 90% of the new members questions are answered or explained in the Manual.
LONG and BORING? Yes. Skip the sections on wine and pet stain removal….unless applicable.
BUT…every section needs to be read. Take the manual with you and walk around and familiarize yourself with EVERY figure or photo. ReRead, as required…..do every chapter….especially the HOUSE Electric and CHASSIS Electric….as well as the DRIVING and CONTROLS and CHASSIS.
Thanks in advance for doing this. Best way to learn. When members respond…..they sometimes think all MONACOS be the same……new members often search for a switch or component that is NOT on their MH….
RoadTripper2084
Interesting to see, thanks for posting. Approx. how many inches of desiccant are there in the filter?
Monaco06
Totally agree. We have owned a Monaco previously, but it was a 1998 and much more basic. We have been mostly full time since 2021. Been dreaming and preparing to get a coach like this for a long time! Awesome to have access to a wealth of knowledge from this community.
LakeBob
Have the coach in a local body shop fixing some clear coat peeling and corrosion that is forming on the aluminum doors and slide frames on our coach. Received these from REV and wanted to share for future reference.
|
MCC 2009 DYN EXT - Paint Codes, D4N09 Cognac Swirl |
||||
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Key# |
Stock & Sikkens # |
Grams |
Part # |
E1 Part Number |
|
|
1Liter Mix |
|
|
|
|
* |
|
|
|
|
|
1 |
FLNA93186 |
|
12515394 |
254654 |
|
|
Q10RV |
442.2 |
|
|
|
|
Q239 |
1.4 |
|
|
|
|
Q271 |
1.6 |
|
|
|
|
Q140 |
27.9 |
|
|
|
|
Q190 |
34.2 |
|
|
|
|
Q328 |
44.8 |
|
|
|
|
Q811E |
62.8 |
|
|
|
|
Q811M |
346.4 |
|
|
|
* |
|
|
|
|
|
2 |
316B2 |
|
12515394 |
254654 |
|
|
Q10RV |
441.7 |
|
|
|
|
Q160 |
5.0 |
|
|
|
|
Q325 |
7.1 |
|
|
|
|
Q328 |
14.6 |
|
|
|
|
Q941M |
134.8 |
|
|
|
|
Q811E |
158.5 |
|
|
|
|
Q811R |
199.9 |
|
|
|
* |
|
|
|
|
|
3 |
FLNA93163 |
|
12515394 |
254654 |
|
|
Q10RV |
447.1 |
|
|
|
|
Q455 |
8.0 |
|
|
|
|
Q140 |
13.6 |
|
|
|
|
Q328 |
67.8 |
|
|
|
|
Q271 |
70.8 |
|
|
|
|
Q811J |
142.4 |
|
|
|
|
Q436 |
221.1 |
|
|
|
* |
|
|
|
|
|
4 |
307H1 |
|
12515394 |
254654 |
|
|
Q10RV |
444.2 |
|
|
|
|
Q811P |
24.3 |
|
|
|
|
Q271 |
55.6 |
|
|
|
|
Q160 |
66.6 |
|
|
|
|
Q140 |
79.9 |
|
|
|
|
Q328 |
298.0 |
|
|
|
* |
|
|
|
|
|
5 |
FLNA93140 |
|
12515394 |
254654 |
|
|
Q10RV |
442.5 |
|
|
|
|
Q271 |
25.7 |
|
|
|
|
Q140 |
55.5 |
|
|
|
|
Q328 |
62.2 |
|
|
|
|
Q811E |
138.8 |
|
|
|
|
Q941F |
Q237.1 |
|
|
Tom Cherry
2 minutes ago, woodylmiller said:Thanks Tom. Plenty to think about. And as stated, it's complicated. Add to that is the constant up and down from the roof. Got all returns exposed with all the dangles. All couplings replaced. All connections cleaned and worked back in and out. 12vdc at the thermostat, but no back light or display. So when first attempting to check to make sure the A/C's were working, zone 1 came on with no issue. Moving to zone 2 and nothing, no display but the back light was on. So went to work cleaning all connections. Went to thermostat and now I have nothing, zone 1 no longer there along with the other 3. No Display, no back light. But 12vdc present, as well as about 4vdc at the thermostat plug. A/C control fuse, good. All 3 amp fuses in the units check good. I have not checked for 12vdc at the control boards in the units; back on the roof I go today to check that. If I follow correctly then if the control boards have 12vdc then, the connections are good, then another head scratcher will come to be.
One thing I noticed, and I don't think it's the problem since the system had worked without issue until now. The RJ connectors on the roof did not always match the color code next to it. Copper is copper and insulation color doesn't matter. HOWEVER I MATCHED the existing plug color cord on the ends that I replaced. So the fact the Monaco didn't seem to care sometimes about how things went. I had one the units were they, Monaco, did not plumb my aux air pump for leveling correctly which caused the pump to run all the time. The fix by previous owner or repair shop was simply to removed the fuse to the pump. Fortunately I have data cable tester so that will be another thing to check, I haven't to this point since I copied the color code on the existing plug (I was wearing a 30x magnifier when checking and repeating color code). I only had to replace 3 of the RJ plugs, all 6p4c.
So today I check for the 12vdc on the boards and go from there. Also, I agree with about MicroAir who claim to be plug and play, which rarely happens in my case.
I have no respect for the "new" REV. I will reserve that feeling for the guys in Coburg who to date have been the only shop to work on and fix the dreaded Kongsberg MPX "brain" for us. EVERY shop that I tried, including M&M in Ohio(?), said the system could not be fixed. Are control boards still available for these units?
One last thing; the 12vdc voltage source. My schematics for the system is a little confusing. The A/C control circuit located in the MPX board in the rear wardrobe is, that my 12vdc for the units? The fuse is clearly marked "A/C Control" and the fuse is good. As some have said Monaco chose different places to get the 12vdc. I like a good challenge but due to the weather changing I'm up against the clock. And that usually means spending money for tech's when I can usually do all this stuff myself given enough time. I've got a roll of 4c telephone cable around somewhere in my "stack of stuff", and CAT cable does not contain red, black, green and yellow conductors, not that color matters as long as continuity remains good. But I might just pull in all new cable while I have every thing topside and inside opened up. And I can just here a tech somewhere saying the colors of the CAT conductors are wrong, they need to be the RBGY colors. WRONG shop.
Thanks again, good conversation and very helpful,
Woody Miller
09 Dynasty
Wow….you are out typing me…
First. There is, as you probably know, the Dometic Data Cable Color Code in their Penguin Installation manual. It is the SAME for the CCC as the CCC2.
I’d make up one short cable….say 24”. Should match the Dometic spec. Then…take that cable and my DVOM and go topside.
Carry alcohol and Q-Tips and CRC ELECTRONICS cleaner…not ELECTRICAL. Clean the female RJ11 on the board… Test the 12 VDC terminals for the INCOMING voltage. Plug in yiur TEST Cord. Forget there is a MPX pair….if you have 12VDC…on the PROPER pair (use DVOM) on the incoming….and the two “power” leads for the Thermostat…. THEN use your known GOOD test jumper or 24” freshly made….plug in the Thermostat to that one and into one of the RJ11 females. Reboot…. Should have FF and the only zone showing (assuming you have unhooked the two “top to plenum” danglers) will be the ZONE number. You should then be able to scroll through MODE. If OK….then….unplug the extension or test….repeat on the OTHER Female.
OBVIOUSLY, I assumed you have cleaned the top side RJ11 Female connectors.
THEN….repeat on Zone 2 and Zone 3. NOW, you KNOW that the control modules are “clean” and the thermostat works. The “erratic” results you reported are not uncommon and are usually symptoms of a POOR connection,
NOW…since you don’t know what or why the system was worked on…. Clean the female terminals in the “INLINE” connectors. Now TEST THEM. Using your DVOM in Continuity….with the BEEP…put the connector in front of you. The female end should be pointed SIDE to SIDE….as in LEFT and RIGHT. It HELPS to have a helper or you can use a vise. Put the DVOM lead on the wire or contact CLOSEST to you….and then check for continuity on the wire or lead on the OTHER side. The PROPER connector is “STRAIGHT THROUGH”…so if the closest wire or terminal is “1”….and the next are 2, 3, and 4…. Then using that same nomenclature on the opposite or other end….1 goes to 1 and 4 goes to 4. I just got in replacements and verified them….did NOT fool with 2 or 3…
NOW….known CORRECT Connectors. Are the DANGLERS color coded correctly per Dometic….
When all is checked out…then INSIDE, on either dangler….the Thermostat should work….assuming that the power pair was correct topside and there was 12 VDC to every module,
As to the MPX or the Intellitec system. The Control Module power comes off a HOUSE FUSE…..it is NOT, but check your prints, connected or part of the Intellitec MPX. YES….there IS an interface for “HEAT” where you have the Intellitec MPX controlling the blowers, via modules, on the Aquahot….BUT the HP or AC is NOT even remotely connected or impacted.
YES…Monaco did a POOR JOB, sometimes….on labeling the Dometic 12VDC Control circuit…but it is only ONE FUSE…and it is ONLY in the House Distribution Fuse panel….NOT on the Intellitec MPX “modules”.
Thats the drill….good luck….
Ivan K
Maybe it was already mentioned but make sure the thermostat slider switch solder connections are reliable, the switch itself is trouble waiting to happen the way it was mounted.
Pudgy Camper
Awesome pics Mike! That looks like a great RV park. We have stayed at the Silverton Lakes Rv Resort in Silverton but might have to check this one out.
What route did you take to get to Ouray? Did you go up through Dolores, Telluride, Ridgway? I've been to Ouray from Silverton on the 550 (Million Dollar Hwy), but some of those corners are really tight going down into Ouray!
Tom Cherry
15 minutes ago, Ivan K said:Maybe it was already mentioned but make sure the thermostat slider switch solder connections are reliable, the switch itself is trouble waiting to happen the way it was mounted.
EXCELLENT POINT. Try spraying a little contact cleaner under or on the switch and cycling. Based on the “attempts”, and the erratic results….a faulty power switch could be the culprit.
Thanks…
jacwjames
Yup, I was involved with EPA compliance for discharge of mine water, testing protocols were adhered to. Sample bottles were put into a cooler and taken directly to a qualified lab. Each mine had their own set of limits we had to abide by and if were out of compliance we had to self report. Fortunately the mines in the USA I were involved with were fairly easy to maintain and comply with standards.
Spain was another cup of tea, bunch of nasty elements in the ore (arsenic, fluoride, selenium, a bunch more). We actually changed the mine plan to mine from areas with lower levels of certain elements so we could blend to meet concentrate contract limits. It was a challenge and the Spanish Government was anti mining. The requirement for Selenium was substantially lower then the background ground water.
Benjamin
Theoretically, the desiccant regenerates with every cycle of the air compressor, with low pressure air pulling moisture out of the dryer as it purges. So the life of the unit is determined more by how much oil gets through the compressor and how well the filter traps it, than by the moisture of the air going through it. That much desiccant wouldn't last a week of trucking in humid climates without regenerating. That filter/dryer looks fine, just as expected, right?
I'd think the air comes in the outside, then down through the beads and out the clean center. Reverses flow to purge out the outside.
woodylmiller
OK, all three units have 10vdc at the board. Tried the thermostat on each of the danglers, still nothing. Strangely enough when disconnecting the danglers on 1 and 2 I hear what sounds like a relay either latching or making momentary contact. I can not find where the sound is coming from. It is somewhere on curb side on the inside of the coach, not down in a bay, but maybe, who knows. Now the rear unit does not do this and only one of the dangles is mated to a coupler and a dangler going nowhere.
So if I am following continuity checking on the board and the two RJ jacks. Pin #1 equals pin #1 on the adjacent jack. I'm going to need to order some more of the RJ6p4c connectors. The only marking I can see on the cables is a dark grey/black cable goes to the units and beige cable in the plenum. Time to go through my stack of stuff and find my phone cable so the colors match exactly as the data/factory cables. Was using CAT cable for my cheater, so just to avoid any confusion I'll make a test cord using actual phone cables. They certainly did no one any favors the way and location of the control board, I'll tell you that. PITA getting out and back in.
I'll give that switch on the thermostat a good dose of electronic cleaner, cause that could certainly explain things.
Thanks,
Woody Miller
09 Dynasty
Jdw12345
As quoted above, I believe that you are correct, I didn’t interpret it correctly.
I'd think the air comes in the outside, then down through the beads and out the clean center. Reverses flow to purge out the outside.
3 hours ago, RoadTripper2084 said:Interesting to see, thanks for posting. Approx. how many inches of desiccant are there in the filter?
Probably about 4ish or so.
3 hours ago, 96 EVO said:What climate are you usually driving in?
We live in Mn but we have been from Mn to Tn, Alabama and everything west with exception of Nevada in the last three years.
Jim McGarvie
I couldn't find any existing messages on this subject, and I'm not sure if this is the appropriate forum for it. But after over 114,000 miles of this country's bumpy roads, the two compartments between the axles on the driver's side are breaking loose and sagging. Looks like they could drop to the road at any time. The supports are pretty thin. I have attached a photo of a typical spot, but there are others.
Has anyone seen anything like this, and/or have any suggestions? I doubt a welder can repair these breaks; I suspect a new support under the compartments will have to be fabricated.
Thanks for any suggestions you may have. We are afraid to drive it any further in this condition.
Jim
Replaced AC Capacitor - Duo-Therm For It Is Blank
jacwjames
This is not a standard phone cable, the ends are reversed.
dennis.mcdonaugh
I know when the Haldex Midland Pure Air Plus air dryer fails those beads can be spread throughout the system causing problems that are difficult to clean up. It's cheap insurance to replace that filter regularly.
Dr4Film
I would get to a facility ASAP where they can do the necessary welding and fabrication to put everything back in place. I would think there would be someone around the AZ area that could accommodate your needs.
Jim McGarvie
10 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:I would get to a facility ASAP where they can do the necessary welding and fabrication to put everything back in place. I would think there would be someone around the AZ area that could accommodate your needs.
Thanks, I am looking for recommendations as we spea..., er type.
woodylmiller
Man is this a little confusing keeping track of the checks and cross checks. So, I have 13+vdc BEFORE going to the unit, at the unit I have 10vdc. I wouldn't think that is my problem with a 3vdc drop at the board. Here is my next question; the RJ jacks on the control board are redundant in terms of polarity. To simplify the two cables going to the board are then "T'ed" with leg of the "T" feeding the board and the two cables simply pass through maintaining color or position to position. As you describe 1 to 1, 2 to 2 and so on. For example the black to black should be 0 ohms. I think that's correct but please advise if not. Really parallel conductors from 1 to 2 and 3. I sure hope zone 4 is not the problem since I have no idea where to look for that.
I did spray electronic cleaner on the switch, but to no avail.
Woody Miller
09 Dynasty
Tom Cherry
9 minutes ago, woodylmiller said:Man is this a little confusing keeping track of the checks and cross checks. So, I have 13+vdc BEFORE going to the unit, at the unit I have 10vdc. I wouldn't think that is my problem with a 3vdc drop at the board. Here is my next question; the RJ jacks on the control board are redundant in terms of polarity. To simplify the two cables going to the board are then "T'ed" with leg of the "T" feeding the board and the two cables simply pass through maintaining color or position to position. As you describe 1 to 1, 2 to 2 and so on. For example the black to black should be 0 ohms. I think that's correct but please advise if not. Really parallel conductors from 1 to 2 and 3. I sure hope zone 4 is not the problem since I have no idea where to look for that.
I did spray electronic cleaner on the switch, but to no avail.
Woody Miller
09 Dynasty
OK….YES. The two Female RJ11 are like a “terminal” strip. The Control modules are attached….
Think of the circuit from a “switch” concept. The Data Com cable has 4 conductors…. So, it you laid them out…..the Data Com line is like 4 “WIRES”……it just runs from the Thermostat to the last unit. Everywhere there are the TWO RJ11’s….that is just a Junction. So….you have a device (Control Module) that taps or attaches to the circuit there. The Data Com cables are always connected. Yes….they are in parallel.
NOW….just to be EVIL…..you have the SAME system on the Intellitec MPX. There is a 3 conductor harness or bundle that runs from the CPU all the way down one side, crosses over…and comes or goes up the other. It terminates where the last switch is. Everywhere there is a “lighted” switch, there is a single 3 wire connector. That switch plugs into the MPX data buss. So each switch is in parallel. When a single switch is pushed….it send out (Hexadecimal I THINK) a code. Module Alpha code (say D through J). Then it sends out a circuit number…1 - 10 OR 0 - 9…. I think it is 1 - 10…. For example….there is a Relay Output for ON and OFF…. Typically the exhaust fans and the pump and the fluorescent. NON DIMMING. If the Pump is on that Module…say “G” and the circuit is “7”. Then EVERY PUMP SWITCH is coded G-7. There are 5, I think, in your MH. So all FIVE switches are programmed G-7. Push any one….and G-7 goes down the MPX data buss. The CPU gets that code. It then tells Module G and Circuit 7 to “toggle”. If ON….turn OFF. If OFF….turn on.
This is exactly HOW the HVAC works. The Thermostat “knows” after a successful reboot, how many Modules are recognized….or Zone 1 - 4. Then based on digital signals from each Module….it tells the Thermostat what is happening. If the remote temp sensor is ON in Zone 3….that means…..TURN ON SOMETHING…..and the coded digital MPX signal is interpreted by the Thermostat and it sends out an instruction.
Thats IT…
Paul J A
On 9/16/2024 at 12:23 PM, Malewis11 said:@cbr046 good question on the filters. I read a lot of threads where that wasn’t done, but I actually stood next to the mechanic when he changed mine so I’m all good there. I may need to backtrack on what @96 EVO said about RPM changes. I finally got some cockpit time this weekend and decided to do a couple of things differently before the mountains of Northwest Arkansas. I didn’t pull my F150 and I also decided to treat the fuel with Diesel Kleen. On the way up, I still noticed the hesitation and tried to keep RPMs up, which helped a little. I noticed that the transmission is doing a very poor job at maintaining RPM. It’s not downshifting as I would expect. The vibration was reduced some and I seem to have better power. The way back I noticed that there was less vibration as long as I maintain above 17 to 1800 RPM on the hills. After another hour I noticed that I could maintain six gear without vibration on fairly significant grades and lower rpm. This kind of leads me to believe that the injector cleaner may be of some help and maintaining proper RPM is currently a manual process for me. Not happy with the Allison downshifts. I’m going to change the air filter and run out this treated tank of fuel. Hopefully I’ll see continued improvement.
I have been using this Lucas product in all our vehicles for over 20+ years. Gas and Diesel powered vehicles.
REVISED. Poll ADDED. . How long did your Norcold 1200 run before failure?
VinceB
8 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:Typically, this site was designed for specific questions. Of course, there are some “campfire” or rhetorical question or subjects that come up. While trying to moderate and keep the mission of the site intact, there are always questions as to “what to do?” or “What is your experience?”.
Unfortunately….when these cross into areas of “personal safety”, then the “call” as to moderation and the extent of such gets tricky.
We discourage and have (memory) moderated comments on “gee…my 12 year old tires have good tread and look new….is it safe to keep using them?”. That may be a touch of cynicism or a bit of hyperbolic sarcasm….but it DOES happen.
Then, the discussions and posts take on a “campfire” tone…. Yes…maybe some points are made…but when personal safety is at stake….as in “should I keep running my aged out tires?”, then the staff makes a judgement call.
So, along those lines….and to keep this in the context of “my own personal curiosity”….which is assumed NOT TO IMPACT or PLAY THE ODDS on a Personal Safety decision….a poll has been added.
Members can participate and answer the “simple” questions….but comments that might be misconstrued or are biased towards continued use of a know, defective personal safety issue, can and will be moderated.
Therefore, let’s use the poll….and see the results.
IF a member feels strongly, one way or another, concerning the continued use of a failed Norcold, then, please use the PM or MESSAGE option and respond, offline, to a member(s).
Thanks for understanding the concerns and the seriousness of this question and why, even offhanded comments, might as well as have been, in the past…MISUNDERSTOOD. We, the staff hold personal safety as a priority and having to continually edit or post disclaimers is a tedious and seemingly unnecessary burden.
Many “facts” quoted here are taken, perhaps out of context, from other sites….and frequently, far too frequently, are 100% WRONG and have caused damage to Monaco’s. Long time contributors often “catch” such and alert the staff.
Lets move on….use the poll and not require more moderation…..THANKS.
Tom,
LOVE the IDEA!
I would have done that from start had I known how.
Thanks for all the hard work you do on these forums - been there and done that so I really understand your work here.
Thanks again.
Paul J A
20 hours ago, Jdw12345 said:We purchased our coach 3 years ago and one item I serviced after our purchase was the air drier desiccant filter/cartrage, I had decided that I would service the air drier in 3 years regardless of mileage. I’m a curious kinda guy in regards to how things work and what makes things work and what’s in there!
So today being our 3 year anniversary of ownership I changed out the desiccant/filter and decided to cut it apart to see what was in there!I tried a standard filter cutter but it didn’t have a tall enough cut to get below the crimped end so I had to use a air grinder to finish the job, so here are the pictures of today’s adventure.
I use only Waco desiccant cartridges.
You can see the moisture on top of the cartridge internal mounting plate.
The tool that didn’t work.
A fair amount of moisture.
It appears to me that the incoming air goes up the center and then works its way through the filter and desiccant and purges to the outside.
The desiccant.
Empty desiccant container and I believe that’s the air filter.
Assembly broke down.
Interesting informative post Jeff. T y.
stuff4sale09
Look on right {Curb} side of passenger seat armrest that is where my step light switch is located.
VinceB
8 hours ago, Dr4Film said:Everpure doesn't list a 3k0942 filter on their web site. What did you replace it with?
Same part # - I bought a few of them years ago. Looks like they've been discontinued. Amazon and eBay don't show them either.
Dick Roberts
At the end of our year long road trip, at the last CG we stayed at, our 99 Diplomat developed some serious electrical issues. Both AC's still worked but nothing else. We had just bought a new home, and moved the coach there the beginning of April. Didn't have shore power setup there, and my genny was running poorly, so I didn't work on it until a couple of weeks ago. I installed a new 50 amp RV outlet, and began trouble shooting. On the 99 Dip, there is a box with two 20 amp CB's immediately after the inverter, which is located incomes out the rear passenger side bay. I discovered one neutral burned in two, the other neutral severely burned but still intact. The neutral buss bar was melted into the plastic base. I replaced the box and CB's, and cut the wires back beyond the damage. I made an extension cord out of romex and ran it from a 120 volt outlet directly into the inverter. All circuits inside the coach worked as expected. However, when I hooked up the coach wiring from the transfer switch, located in the rear drivers side bay, to the inverter and plug into SP, the line in to the inverter is dead. I have power coming out of the TS, and into the main breaker panel. I have power from the breakers in the panel going out on all lines, as far as I can test. But all the wires disappear into the walls of the coach, beyond my reach.
Somewhere between where the inverter wire disappears beyond the wall and where that wire emerges into the back bay, it loses power. I can wiggle that wire where it comes out of the ceiling of the bay and get intermittent power. That tells me I have a break up there somewhere. But where? Is there any way to access that wire without cutting into the coach? Has anyone successfully pulled new romex from the inverter to the main panel? Sadly, I don't have a manual nor elec diagrams. And even if I did, they wouldn't show the actual layout inside the walls of the various circuits. Any help or thoughts will be greatly appreciated.
Thanks
Dick Roberts
Bobkat11208
16 hours ago, VinceB said:Back on point: I'm just asking a simple question. It appears that this is lost somehow. I don't understand why this is a problem or how I ruffled feathers.
I don't see a reason for debate - the facts are what they are - the data is what it is. This in not about risk tolerance - yes, we all know that it is just a matter of time before it WILL fail. POINT TAKEN.
The purpose here is to approximate the lifespan of a certain system. I would think that information would be a benefit to those that read these forums who have not yet made the decision to swap out their refrigerators. The readers here might be motivated to avert a disaster if so informed. Is that a bad thing?
Are we here to help fellow owners or not? I think we are.
My intent is about collecting data. It is not redundant nor rhetorical. Engineering people seek data. I'm just trying to collect data. I don't understand why this is so difficult and why there seems to be so much opposition to collecting that data.
I'll restate my question:
IF your Norcold 1200 cooling unit failed, how many days would you guess/estimate that it was operated? And how old was it? Are you on the East coast or West coast?
Data point: We purchased a new Scratch/Dent 1200 directly from an RV mfgr in Sept. 2023 at a highly discounted price. Manufacturing data plate showed April 2023.
It failed in July 2024 via ammonia leak and was replaced with an Amish 12v cooling unit dual compressor attached to the 1200 box (DW likes the 4 door and the seals are fine). I’m estimating ~45 use days in that timeframe. Ninety percent of that usage was boondocking.
We’re in Indiana.Hope this helps.
Dr4Film
Sounds to me like you are looking at running a new wire versus replacing the broken one.
Dick Roberts
I agree, but how in the blazes do you pull wires in an RV?
Dr4Film
You don't unless there is a hollow area with existing wires. Otherwise, you run them underneath to an area where you can get into the section you are trying to reach.
Tom Cherry
1999 is a year that we do NOT have a LOT of info on...
BUT....Going out on a LIMB....we DO have the 2000 Dip prints.
You can download them. There is a 50 A print...that shows the power. The Romex is or should be #6 (three conductor - CU stranded) with a Ground. Monaco used #6 Ground....or I THINK #8....and we have also, personal experience, used a #10 Ground. That is adequate. The power comes from where ever your SHORE is connected... If you have a REEL there will be a Junction box there. THEN.,...there is NO JUNCTION BOX between the "POWER CONNECTION (cord or REEL) and the ATS. Just a STRAIGHT RUN. ODDS ARE, it is flex (Sealtite is the tradename) conduit. IF you have an open connection....then ODDS ARE, assuming that Monaco used Flex conduit back then....in the Junction BOX. Now WHERE THAT IS... GOD only knows...
But that is how it done on the newer ones...and also, I think, on the older ones...
IF you Romex is NOT in Conduit....then GOD ONLY KNOWS what has happened where you can NOT SEE or get to.
NOW....pictures would be great....but if Monaco was running only jacketed Romex back then.... then it is GONNA BE TOUGH....but I would run the Flex (plastic) conduit and start from the J-Box where the cord ties in....and up to the ATS.
Remember....you are SPLICING #6 Wire. You use a SPLIT NUT for the THREE connectors. You use heavy FOAM tape....then cover that with Electrical tape. CODE actually wants you to WRAP the split bolt in TWO thicknesses of a "Kraft Paper Bag" or a supermarket paper bag. DON'T ASK WHY....so...Double WRAP with Paper Bag. Wrap with heavy Electrical Foam tape....and then finish off with Electrical tape. YES...that is a BIG splice.
In later years, Monaco had a FOUR terminal Junction Box....so you put the TWO #6 under one LUG....and repeat for all three.... The GROUND can be wire nutted...
Good Luck....
Benjamin
It's a little hard to see exactly how it came apart, but that's standard patch it up welding. Either lots of booger welds, or some well designed reinforcing plates. Doesn't take a highly skilled welder, just a hard working and determined one. Make sure he keeps a garden hose handy, and has some welding blankets to shield the wiring. I like to remove the ground cables off both banks, then discharge, and jump the positive to the chassis ground, reducing any voltage in the wiring to a minimum.
Should be fine with a ground near the weld, but why take chances. Don't use an AC welder!
waterskier_1
Your title is misleading. I think what you are proposing is to run a new wire from the Breaker Panel, to the Inverter, NOT the Transfer Switch, which doesn't go to the Inverter, unless the wiring has been modified by someone.
You will only need 10 gauge wire. Remember you should never put Romex inside conduit. If you want to use conduit, then use independent stranded wires.
This may need to be taken offline, some moderators don't like non-conforming wiring. There are a lot of questions that might not be of interest to all the members, such as where, specifically, is your Breaker Panel. If it is in a closet, or the back can be accessed from inside a closet, then you can run your new wiring down the back of the closet, through the floor, and then forward. Again, depending on where your breaker panel is, you can route the wiring with other cable and hoses over the rear axle, and into the center ceiling of the basement, the up to the bay where the inverter is located. There is no standard configuration on how Monaco wired the coaches, but generally, they wired the 110 VAC in the ceiling, and then down the walls. If in a slide, then through the slide floor and up the walls.
If you can provide clarification as to if you are meaning the Breaker Panel vs the Transfer Switch, and where that panel is located, we may be able to assist.
-Rick N.
Dick Roberts
19 minutes ago, waterskier_1 said:Your title is misleading. I think what you are proposing is to run a new wire from the Breaker Panel, to the Inverter, NOT the Transfer Switch, which doesn't go to the Inverter, unless the wiring has been modified by someone.
You will only need 10 gauge wire. Remember you should never put Romex inside conduit. If you want to use conduit, then use independent stranded wires.
This may need to be taken offline, some moderators don't like non-conforming wiring. There are a lot of questions that might not be of interest to all the members, such as where, specifically, is your Breaker Panel. If it is in a closet, or the back can be accessed from inside a closet, then you can run your new wiring down the back of the closet, through the floor, and then forward. Again, depending on where your breaker panel is, you can route the wiring with other cable and hoses over the rear axle, and into the center ceiling of the basement, the up to the bay where the inverter is located. There is no standard configuration on how Monaco wired the coaches, but generally, they wired the 110 VAC in the ceiling, and then down the walls. If in a slide, then through the slide floor and up the walls.
If you can provide clarification as to if you are meaning the Breaker Panel vs the Transfer Switch, and where that panel is located, we may be able to assist.
-Rick N.
Thanks Rick, you're right. I do mean the Breaker Panel and not the Transfer Switch. Wiring from TS to main panel is good. No issues there. The romex from the breaker panel to the inverter is where my issue is. Using my test light, I can verify power from the back of the breaker panel to where the wire disappears into the wall. That wire comes out of the ceiling of the bay the inverter is located in. No power at that point. The inverter (on passenger side), the breaker panel (on drivers side), and the transfer switch (drivers side) are all located at the rear of the coach.
Passenger side of bed has two drawers. Drivers side has one drawer with breaker panel below. Bed in the middle, hinged at the head of the bed with engine hatch below bed. I'll post pics tomorrow if I haven't dreamed the answer tonight. 🙂
Why no conduit for romex? I thought any kind of electric wire that wasn't hidden behind walls should be in conduit. Hmm! Still learning after all these years.
Thanks
Dick R
Jim McGarvie
1 hour ago, Benjamin said:It's a little hard to see exactly how it came apart, but that's standard patch it up welding. Either lots of booger welds, or some well designed reinforcing plates. Doesn't take a highly skilled welder, just a hard working and determined one. Make sure he keeps a garden hose handy, and has some welding blankets to shield the wiring. I like to remove the ground cables off both banks, then discharge, and jump the positive to the chassis ground, reducing any voltage in the wiring to a minimum.
Should be fine with a ground near the weld, but why take chances. Don't use an AC welder!
Even in person it is a little hard to see how it came apart. Thanks for the input, Benjamin. I'm taking it to our local RV shop Thursday to have them take a look. I'll bet they have seen this sort of thing before, maybe holding up water tanks or something.
jacwjames
2 hours ago, VinceB said:Same part # - I bought a few of them years ago. Looks like they've been discontinued. Amazon and eBay don't show them either.
This is what I ordered recently Water Filter Change - 3K0942 Under sink - Waited Too Long?
VinceB
11 hours ago, Dr4Film said:Everpure doesn't list a 3k0942 filter on their web site. What did you replace it with?
Here's a pic of the head if it helps you find a replacement.
7 minutes ago, jacwjames said:This is what I ordered recently Monaco Embelms
Ken ThompsonI have had a lot of interest and sales of the polished stainless steel “Monaco Dynasty” emblems. I have also had numerous people asking for other model emblems. If anyone has an original emblem, or better yet, the artwork for the other emblems, I could have them made as well. I see there’s a monarch sticker and a diplomat sticker available, but I haven’t found anything for the Monaco Executive, Signature, Winsor, or Camelot coaches. Maybe the moderators have some inside info that would help.
Thanks
Ken Thompson
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