Monacoers Daily News

26 minutes ago, Floyd4949 said:

I've used this for a few years.
I believe there are now some lower priced versions but....

 

REVISED. Poll ADDED. . How long did your Norcold 1200 run before failure?
pulsarjab 21 hours ago

It is hard to answer the poll as stated. When addressing failure, I assume you mean the coils leak. I never experience that but I had to replace a lot of parts to keep it running. Over the years the heaters burned through the wires, the thermostat failed, the controller card failed and was replaced with after market card, and the fans failed and were replaced. Two Ice makers were replaced.

The RV is used for week end trips during the Spring, Summer, and Fall, and all winter in warmer climates.

The flue required periodic cleaning as rust particles would accumulate at the bottom and if not cleaned propane would fail to ignite.

The unit had a twelve year life span before being replaced. It is hard to say when it would fail but I felt it was too risky to continue without replacing.

REVISED. Poll ADDED. . How long did your Norcold 1200 run before failure?
Tom Cherry 20 hours ago

27 minutes ago, pulsarjab said:

It is hard to answer the poll as stated. When addressing failure, I assume you mean the coils leak. I never experience that but I had to replace a lot of parts to keep it running. Over the years the heaters burned through the wires, the thermostat failed, the controller card failed and was replaced with after market card, and the fans failed and were replaced. Two Ice makers were replaced.

The RV is used for week end trips during the Spring, Summer, and Fall, and all winter in warmer climates.

The flue required periodic cleaning as rust particles would accumulate at the bottom and if not cleaned propane would fail to ignite.

The unit had a twelve year life span before being replaced. It is hard to say when it would fail but I felt it was too risky to continue without replacing.

For clarification…..the original, rhetorical question was “how long do they last”.  My definition was “FAILED” as in….couldn’t be fixed.

YES….that is broad brushed….but that was the context of the question and the intent was to “answer” it…as stated.

Anymore details…..that has been written so many times….and it can all be read here.  If members want to continue to discuss or speculate on failures and such…then any of the past topics can be used.  The redundancy and keep “chewing” the same bite is the concern.  Our site is probably one of the best and most informative….but there are very few if any “new stones” to be turned over…

Hope this clarifies it….

REVISED. Poll ADDED. . How long did your Norcold 1200 run before failure?
Dr4Film 20 hours ago

I purchased the 2002 Windsor in December 2003. The fridge worked fine for a few years except the freezer never was REALLY cold. I put tons of time and money into attempting to get it to work better for us but had to throw out tons of spoiled food while using the NotSoCold. Both fridge doors had fallen off needing to be repaired. I installed extra cooling fans to help it work better but it never did. Finally in 2012 I had it removed and installed a Samsung RF197 and that fridge is still running great for the new owner of the coach 12 years later.

Moderator EDIT and CONCLUSION - TEN (10) years….

How to run new 30A Romex from Main Panel to inverter? 1999 Diplomat.
Tom Cherry 19 hours ago

14 hours ago, Dick Roberts said:

Thanks Rick, you're right. I do mean the Breaker Panel and not the Transfer Switch. Wiring from TS to main panel is good. No issues there. The romex from the breaker panel to the inverter is where my issue is. Using my test light, I can verify power from the back of the breaker panel to where the wire disappears into the wall. That wire comes out of the ceiling of the bay the inverter is located in. No power at that point. The inverter (on passenger side), the breaker panel (on drivers side), and the transfer switch (drivers side) are all located at the rear of the coach. 

Passenger side of bed has two drawers. Drivers side has one drawer with breaker panel below. Bed in the middle, hinged at the head of the bed with engine hatch below bed. I'll post pics tomorrow if I haven't dreamed the answer tonight. 🙂 

Why no conduit for romex? I thought any kind of electric wire that wasn't hidden behind walls should be in conduit. Hmm! Still learning after all these years.

Thanks

Dick R

@waterskier_1 & @Dick Roberts

I edited the title.  It was pointed out previously to your two posts that more information and clarification and pictures were needed. Rick picked up on the real issue….

However….and this is from the STAFF.

The comment about “nonconformity” and personal preference is totally out of line and false and misleading.  In fact, we try to edit or monitor any “non confirming” recommendations for safety and also to prevent damage to a motor hone,  This has been posted repeatedly.

When a recommendation is posted that does NOT conform to Monaco’s original assembly standards or practices OR is NOT in compliance to the published Monaco schematics (typically all are “electrical) OR is NOT in conformance with a component manufacturer’s documentation…..  THEN…that is called out…..and a caveat is posted.  Rarely, has a post been deleted.  Many members, with good intentions, have posted misinformation that they “read on the net”.

Some are worse or potentially more damaging…..  Cases documented and in the topics…  two that come to mind.

Always RUN the PAC or EXHAUST brake.  Yes….folks have said that.  No engine manufacturer has ever stated or implied that…and expensive repairs have been required.

Stick a Golf TEE under the BATTERY BOOST switch and the “BIG BOY” will charge when you drive.  The 200 Amp Big BOY’s coil is NOT rated for a full or continuous 12/13 VDC input.  Intellitec doesn’t publish a “gonna burn up and overheat” after X minutes….but Monaco goes into a painstakingly high degree or discussion as how to PROPERLY use the Boost Switch.

OK….hope that explains and corrects such.  We have a solemn obligation to make sure that all recommendations meet the above criteria….and have the right to edit or comment to protect less than knowledge members or prevent injuries or destructive impacts to the MH….

Next up.  Any member(s) can go offline for assistance and very rarely is that suggested….unless the comments are “bogged” down and redundant and repetitive.  THEN that is suggested.  In fact, many difficult problems are solved by ONE-ONE phone calls. The Staff often does such to sssist…

Finally.  Monaco “did” some things….that the NEC does not, I think, approve.  However….since Monaco was responsible and liable….then that “item” falls under the “OEM ASSEMBLE STANDARD”.  

The “cable” used for 50 Amp incoming from Shore (reel or where the shore is connected) to the ATS; from the Genny to the ATS and from the ATS to the Main panel has many “names”.  It is a JACKETED cable. It has three insulated #6 stranded conductors..  The GROUND may have been SOLID or Stranded and may have been #10, #8 or #6.  That cable is also, in the trade, known as “Service Entrance” cable.  Those three “runs” were typically protected by flexible conduit…aka Sealtite or flex plastic conduit.  

SO….by our charter….if Monaco did it that way…so be it….end of discussion.  

NOW…based on what I know and is posted, Monaco used #10/2 with solid ground “Romex” for the 30A feed from the main panel to the inverter.  On a DUAL IN-DUAL OUT service, there were TWO runs…and then those runs, from the inverter back to the subpanel…were also #10 Romex.  They and all the #12 Romex was not, never say never, but TYPICALLY, protected by flex conduit.

Let’s move on….lets address the problem that Dick has….and it “HAS HAPPENED BEFORE” and many members have had to do significant “demo/restoration” to make new “Romex” runs.  Lets hope some Diplomat owners or others will chime in. Like any “how’d they do that?”….one never knows if or how many zip ties or clamps (probably not staples like a residential install) Monaco used….and IF one can use a fish line and pull it and then pull a new line back….

 

HWH Air leveling control pad
Greg Coffey 19 hours ago

My auto leveling control pad is wearing out it seems. The raise button needs to be played with for awhile before I can get a connection. All other buttons work fine. I am having trouble finding the proper replacement as my part numbers don’t match up anywhere. Has anyone seen one such as the one in the photo? Thanks

HWH Air leveling control pad
DavidL 19 hours ago

If particular switches are not working, likely due to grit getting inside due to the membrane being broken, they are readily available on Amazon.  A Quick remove / resolder and they will be like new again.  Somewhere I posted this exact procedure and links....

HWH Air leveling control pad
Greg Coffey 19 hours ago

Thank you David, I had looked through the articles and forums here and did not see the procedure. I will look again to see your post. 

2006 Dynasty Diamond IV Kitchen Vent
gjh2916 19 hours ago

I'm going to remove and replace the Cool-O-Matic fan in my coach this winter with a Dometic Freshjet 3 AC unit. I tired of not being able to get the front of my coach below 80 degrees on 100 degree days.

HWH Air leveling control pad
Ivan K 19 hours ago

Greg, here is one of the related posts

https://www.monacoers.org/topic/7994-hwh-computerized-leveling-panel/?do=findComment&comment=83018

Suggestions for Selling my 2002 Diplomat
rwilliamsr42 19 hours ago

I am interested in getting some opinions from forum members concerning issuse in sell my Motor Home.  Some background info for a discussion.  My Coach is the 40' PBDD, it has low miles on 29,500.  I have been using it on a stationary seasonal site for a number of years.  I am handicapped and the effort to handle set-up and moving are a real struggle.  The seasonal works well for my wife and I, but the management for the campground has changed and caused us to consider moving off the site.  I am considering an RV broker as a way to sell, but their interest is in newer units.  I know that I will probably have a real challenge to sell, but I would like to get some thoughts from the forum.

Suggestions for Selling my 2002 Diplomat
Dr4Film 18 hours ago

This topic has been discussed many times in the past. Search for what others have stated previously.

I used Pop RV to sell my 02 Windsor back in 2022.

REVISED. Poll ADDED. . How long did your Norcold 1200 run before failure?
96 EVO 18 hours ago

I haven't owned a Norcold, only Dometic's.

I'm finding they outlive the last 3 residential refrigerators I've purchased for my home! 

Tracing cummins fuel control wiring
Rikadoo 18 hours ago

So working on replacing the fuel control coomputer for a cummins, its sending a code of 9115 on tbe insite computer. From what im told is were missing one of the Two legs of the terminating resistor, with that looking at the schematic for the cummins engine i can find the input of the terminating resistor going to the the engine ECU though not in the pin locations. The probblem is trying to pin the terminating resistor in the fuel control module, again what i find is not in the pin locations the diagram says they should be. Plus as i am on hold with cummins that appears to be going NOWHERE im going thru the circuits in my head, im thinking possably how the alladin may some how be involved as its reporting mpg, fuel… all indications of this system is somehow the connection between the two MAY be related. Has anyone got the link between the two systems or how the fuel computer is supposed to see the terminating resistor🤪😖

2003 Dynasty HWH & Thomas compressor
David Pratt 18 hours ago

The Control box should be a stacked unit of two control boxes. Look on the either end of the control box and the adjustment assembly will be mounted on the end of the control box that has the sensing unit mounted in it..

Tracing cummins fuel control wiring
Frank McElroy 17 hours ago

Two terminating resistors are only used on the J1939 CAN data bus.

However, your engine might be old enough where you only have a J1708 data bus.  Anyway, the Aladdin has a bridge module that converts a J1708 data bus signal to a J1587 signal that the Aladdin actually uses.

Tracing cummins fuel control wiring
Rikadoo 17 hours ago

Hello frank, so im looking at the alladin engine data cable it shows the data + - black an white, my question is givin the engine control is looking for the terminiting resistors i have tried to find the link from resistor #2 to the fuel control computer and neither led is connected, so my question is did the coach builter substute that resistor for the one in the alladin

Michelin vs Toyo
trstaska 17 hours ago

My Michelin's are 6 yrs old and I tried purchasing 275/80R22.5 XLEZ through the FMCA Michelin advantage program but they are back ordered.

I considered XZE but they are backordered and I've heard they might have sidewall problems.

I am considering Toyo but I can't find them in 275/80. Do they make 275/80 LRH? I'm told that I can use 295/75 instead. Is that right?

Does changing sizes screw up the speedometer/odometer? I am only getting new Drives, we replaced the Steers last Fall. We have always had Michelins, we put about 10,000 miles per year on the MH and we don't mind spending the extra money for Michelin's if we can get them. What's the general advice?

Searching 96 Monaco Dynasty Fender
mkarow 16 hours ago

Help,

I am searching for help with repairing a green 96 Monaco RV.  Passenger fender is gone.  I have no idea where to start for a shop that can repair this.  My contract information is also in the photo.  So if you have any information that could help I would greatly appreciate it.

 

Any idea what other coaches fenders might fit?  Afraid I am struggling a great deal.

 

Marty

 

96 Monaco Dynastry Fender Search.pdf

Tracing cummins fuel control wiring
Frank McElroy 16 hours ago

55 minutes ago, Rikadoo said:

Hello frank, so im looking at the alladin engine data cable it shows the data + - black an white, my question is givin the engine control is looking for the terminiting resistors i have tried to find the link from resistor #2 to the fuel control computer and neither led is connected, so my question is did the coach builter substute that resistor for the one in the alladin

I sent you a PM with a number to call me.

Searching 96 Monaco Dynasty Fender
staffcurtis 16 hours ago

I have a 1995 Dynasty for sale.  Has internal water damage, and someone stole the tranny ECU and push button shifter.  Body in good shape, and engine and tranny good.  Make offer and it's yours.  Looks just like the one on the top of this site.  I'm in Raleigh, NC.

HWH Air leveling control pad
Greg Coffey 16 hours ago

Thanks for the information and your time,,, much appreciated. I will open it up again and have another look at it. I will double check connections and clean it up a bit ,, see if it helps.

Thanks 

Searching 96 Monaco Dynasty Fender
mkarow 16 hours ago

I don't know how to call you, sorry new to this.  My phone number is 262-745-3251 and is in the photo.  I would be happy to work with you.

 

Thanks

Monaco Embelms
dodgit 16 hours ago

I have previously searched but never found an 'original' badge.

I would be interested to know where I can get the 'Monaco' emblem ( only have a Windsor, and am in the UK )

Thanks in advance

Roger Newman

Searching 96 Monaco Dynasty Fender
mkarow 16 hours ago

Do you have any photos?  I am looking into transport cost now to Wisconsin.  All my info is there.  

2006 Dynasty Diamond IV Kitchen Vent
Jim Roach 15 hours ago

3 hours ago, gjh2916 said:

I'm going to remove and replace the Cool-O-Matic fan in my coach this winter with a Dometic Freshjet 3 AC unit. I tired of not being able to get the front of my coach below 80 degrees on 100 degree days.

Mine is a 12v Koolamatic. You’ll have to find a 120 VAC source to pull from.

2006 Dynasty Diamond IV Kitchen Vent
gjh2916 15 hours ago

17 minutes ago, Jim Roach said:

Mine is a 12v Koolamatic. You’ll have to find a 120 VAC source to pull from.

Going to run 12-2 romex from dryer plug and add a contractor with a switch to use dryer or AC unit

2003 Dynasty HWH & Thomas compressor
Jim Roach 14 hours ago

3 hours ago, David Pratt said:

The Control box should be a stacked unit of two control boxes. Look on the either end of the control box and the adjustment assembly will be mounted on the end of the control box that has the sensing unit mounted in it..

I’ll dig thru the wiring bundles and find it then. I thought it was 1 deep box with multiple stacked of circuit boards in it. 

2006 Dynasty Diamond IV Kitchen Vent
96 EVO 14 hours ago

4 hours ago, gjh2916 said:

I'm going to remove and replace the Cool-O-Matic fan in my coach this winter with a Dometic Freshjet 3 AC unit. I tired of not being able to get the front of my coach below 80 degrees on 100 degree days.

Your coach only came with 2 units, or, your adding a 4th?

2006 Dynasty Diamond IV Kitchen Vent
gjh2916 14 hours ago

1 minute ago, 96 EVO said:

Your coach only came with 2 units, or, your adding a 4th?

Coach only came with 2 units, I am adding a 3rd

Defrost blower motor won’t cut off
David Pratt 14 hours ago

"WE" the Moderators have this discussion about owners that own these rigs and have never read the owners manual and expect the online forums to answer all their question and solve even the simplest problems that can be answered by just reading the manual. Tom and my biggest issue is the owner who posts the "what Is this" post.

It is very hard to understand with my getting older feeble mind why anyone who purchases an RV, whether it be a pull behind, Fifth wheel and especially a Class A motor coach would take it on the road without reading and understanding just some of the Basics in the owners manual.

I have owned several RV's, most of them have been Class A's. I have always approached the operation, ownership and maintenance of my Coach with the same method that I was exposed to when learning to Fly and every time I would go after a Type Rating for one of the Jets or other aircraft I was going to fly.

The first thing a new owner should do before venturing out on the road in a RV, especially a Class A is to at a minimum read the owners manual and get a basic understanding of how things work, what switches to turn on to make the basic systems work, such as headlights, wipers etc.

Whenever I would go to get a Type Rating in a Particular Aircraft, the FAA requires that you study and are familiar with all the manuals that are associated for that particular aircraft which includes the Flight manual, Operation Manuals for all the components installed in the aircraft and how they interact with other systems and the Emergency Check List,which will include the Memory Items you are required to know in case the crap hits the fan and helps you to instantaneously maybe save your butt, After you do the above, which is called "Ground School", it is required that you must take a Written Exam and then an Oral Exam on everything you have learned in the manuals before you will have the opportunity to operate and fly the aircraft. The final step after you have met and passed all the aforementioned requirements is the Flight Test which you must demonstrate that you can handle all aspects of not only flying the aircraft but also your response to any emergency situation. When you have successfully passed all the above you be issued a Type Rating for that aircraft only. Each aircraft that I want to fly I would still have to do all of the above again to be approved to fly each aircraft. At 35000 feet you cannot pull over to a cloud and fix a problem and there is no forum you can go online and ask for help.

Class A Motor-coaches can be complex, some are basic and the higher up you go in the food chain the more complex they get, it sometimes can get very overwhelming. Every owner as Tom Cherry suggested should read the Owners Manual and get familiar with the location, operation of each system and what they do and how they interface with other components and how to operate the various components installed in their particular coach. After reading and understanding the Owners Manual you should then go chapter by chapter and understand how to operate the various systems in the manual and physically touch, feel and familiarize yourself with them.

An owner should also read and thoroughly understand each manual for every system installed in the coach. Most manuals come with a trouble shooting section and the owner should familiarize themselves with that section. The owner should also know where each component is installed and located in the coach and how to access them using the Operation Manuals.

An owner should also make himself familiar with all the customer service or technical phone numbers of the components installed in the coach are. That call that should be made to get first hand help to solve an issue with a component with the correct facts and methods of fixing it.

By doing the above it will help the owner understanding a problem and how to fix it, where to go to get help or to ask the right questions to get help quickly to solve an issue. I read many posts from a member about a problem or issue and another member will post an answer that is off the hip and does not know a thing about  what they are talking about and it can get costly.  The Moderators try to prevent this as much as we can.

My final thought to all is "READ THE OWNERS AND OPERATING MANUAL FOR YOUR COACH". It will be one hell of an education.

 

Defrost blower motor won’t cut off
Monaco06 14 hours ago

David, 

I appreciate you reiterating about reading the owners manual. That will certainly be done. 
just so you know, I picked the coach up at 7pm and drove until 3am to get home to be at a job. The fan was running when I picked it up. I made the post the next morning in case I was overlooking the obvious…..and I was. Brain was not working at 3am. 
Give me a little time and I will soak up the owners manual so as to not ask embarrassing questions. 

Yours truly,

Humble and brand new 06 Monaco Signature owner. 😃

I owned a 1998 Monaco coach, my wife and I lived in it full time for a year and traveled about 12,000 miles in it. I repaired many simple and complicated things along the way….and I read much of the manual. A very simple coach with minimal electronics compared to the 06. This one is a little intimidating with electronics. Not my strongest quality!  

Thanks again for your concern, but I’m not that guy. I’m pretty seasoned and have owned most types of campers and 2 coaches. Have been camping and traveling most of my 57 years with family and as an adult. 
it’s a great life and we are blessed to live it. 
 

Always thankful for the shared wisdom of people like you who are far more experienced than I am. 

Trans fluid?
4rickyg 14 hours ago

Checked my trans fluid through the dipstick today looks like I am a couple quarts low. The fluid is clear not red. Does this mean it is synthetic? Not Dexron 3? Which I think is usually red.

  Do I add the fluid through the dick stick tube? Allison 4000 series, temp was 160 when I checked. I could not get an accurate reading from the keypad it said l o 0 6. Wasn't sure what that meant so I went to the dipstick. Thanks for any info.

Trans fluid?
timaz996 13 hours ago

The key pad needs the temp to be operating temp...I think 180. Read the manual and it should say. I don't the know the answer for color of fluid.

HWH Air leveling control pad
RIPPPA 13 hours ago

Greg this keypad looks very similar to mine being in 2005 Dynasty. I called NW parts about it and they checked and said this model will need to be send to HWH to be rebuilt as this model is not available any longer. I’ll be sending mine to HWH in Oct when I get my coach back home to Texas. I would call HWH and see what they say. Be patient as they can be slow to return calls and emails. Good Luck. 

Michelin vs Toyo
hex_nut 13 hours ago

The Toyo M154 295/75 has a diameter of 40.4 inches and a width of 11 inches.  The Michelin 275/80 has a diameter of 40.2 and a width of 11.1.  So, the two tire sizes are basically identical and would cause no significant change for your speedometer.  I am running Toyo's and have been very happy with them.

Richard

Condensate drain lines
LakeBob 13 hours ago

I've used the compressed air method with success, disconnecting  the inside connection behind the filters and blowing both ways.  Definately blew out a blockage on my problem unit.   I also had to reposition the drain line on my center AC as it was kinked during installation and effectively blocked the flow by 75% or more.   

I read a tip once that pouring a 25% bleach/water solution into the drain cups would help break up mold that grows in the lines, especially in warm and humid climates.  I did this to all mine when I purchased, as it was a Florida based coach. 

How to run new 30A Romex from Main Panel to inverter? 1999 Diplomat.
Dick Roberts 12 hours ago

6 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

@waterskier_1 & @Dick Roberts

I edited the title.  It was pointed out previously to your two posts that more information and clarification and pictures were needed. Rick picked up on the real issue….

However….and this is from the STAFF.

The comment about “nonconformity” and personal preference is totally out of line and false and misleading.  In fact, we try to edit or monitor any “non confirming” recommendations for safety and also to prevent damage to a motor hone,  This has been posted repeatedly.

When a recommendation is posted that does NOT conform to Monaco’s original assembly standards or practices OR is NOT in compliance to the published Monaco schematics (typically all are “electrical) OR is NOT in conformance with a component manufacturer’s documentation…..  THEN…that is called out…..and a caveat is posted.  Rarely, has a post been deleted.  Many members, with good intentions, have posted misinformation that they “read on the net”.

Some are worse or potentially more damaging…..  Cases documented and in the topics…  two that come to mind.

Always RUN the PAC or EXHAUST brake.  Yes….folks have said that.  No engine manufacturer has ever stated or implied that…and expensive repairs have been required.

Stick a Golf TEE under the BATTERY BOOST switch and the “BIG BOY” will charge when you drive.  The 200 Amp Big BOY’s coil is NOT rated for a full or continuous 12/13 VDC input.  Intellitec doesn’t publish a “gonna burn up and overheat” after X minutes….but Monaco goes into a painstakingly high degree or discussion as how to PROPERLY use the Boost Switch.

OK….hope that explains and corrects such.  We have a solemn obligation to make sure that all recommendations meet the above criteria….and have the right to edit or comment to protect less than knowledge members or prevent injuries or destructive impacts to the MH….

Next up.  Any member(s) can go offline for assistance and very rarely is that suggested….unless the comments are “bogged” down and redundant and repetitive.  THEN that is suggested.  In fact, many difficult problems are solved by ONE-ONE phone calls. The Staff often does such to sssist…

Finally.  Monaco “did” some things….that the NEC does not, I think, approve.  However….since Monaco was responsible and liable….then that “item” falls under the “OEM ASSEMBLE STANDARD”.  

The “cable” used for 50 Amp incoming from Shore (reel or where the shore is connected) to the ATS; from the Genny to the ATS and from the ATS to the Main panel has many “names”.  It is a JACKETED cable. It has three insulated #6 stranded conductors..  The GROUND may have been SOLID or Stranded and may have been #10, #8 or #6.  That cable is also, in the trade, known as “Service Entrance” cable.  Those three “runs” were typically protected by flexible conduit…aka Sealtite or flex plastic conduit.  

SO….by our charter….if Monaco did it that way…so be it….end of discussion.  

NOW…based on what I know and is posted, Monaco used #10/2 with solid ground “Romex” for the 30A feed from the main panel to the inverter.  On a DUAL IN-DUAL OUT service, there were TWO runs…and then those runs, from the inverter back to the subpanel…were also #10 Romex.  They and all the #12 Romex was not, never say never, but TYPICALLY, protected by flex conduit.

Let’s move on….lets address the problem that Dick has….and it “HAS HAPPENED BEFORE” and many members have had to do significant “demo/restoration” to make new “Romex” runs.  Lets hope some Diplomat owners or others will chime in. Like any “how’d they do that?”….one never knows if or how many zip ties or clamps (probably not staples like a residential install) Monaco used….and IF one can use a fish line and pull it and then pull a new line back….

 

Thanks  for the title edit, Tom,

I have pics now.

Looking at the back wall of the bedroom. Panel is on the bottom right, drivers side.

The panel is pulled out as far as it will go due to no slack in the wires.

 

This wire from Inverter CB to the Inverter. It has power at this point, but .....

Same wire but has no power here.

The wire must go between the floor and the sub floor some where behind the bed. No wires in drawer space on passenger side.

I see two options, as the number of bends in this wire will make it almost impossible to pull.

A) Drill a hole in the three red circles and pull new romex.

B) Remove bed and find (or cut) an access panel in the wall to access area between the wall and the rear cap, to facilitate new romex install in original location.

My least favorite is B. That requires removing a heavy mattress and then removing the bedframe. Sounds like a three man job to me.

Option A only needs three holes drilled with a battery drill and drop in the wire. Easy Peasy, right? The engine hatch does not get hot while driving, I've checked.

Any thoughts on either of these options?

Thanks,

Dick R

 

 

 

 

Trans fluid?
Brian J 12 hours ago

Recommended trans fluid is Transynd 668. The color us red.

Trans fluid?
David Pratt 12 hours ago

Allison recommends that the fluid be checked using the key pad for the best accuracy.

Instructions;

1 Park the coach on a level surface, engine must be running, shift to N (neutral) and apply parking brake.

2. Let the engine idle for at a minimum of 2 minutes if engine is already at operating temperature or until the transmission fluid temperature is at 140 deg F or above.

3. Push simultaneously to enter diagnostic mode and fluid level check.

4. If you get a "-" in the display window of the shift pad it will be followed by a countdown that starts at 8 and is normal.

5. "o L" will be displayed, ("o L" represents "Fluid (Oil) Level Check Mode"), followed by a "o K". The "o K display indicates the fluid is within the correct fluid level zone. If a "L o" is displayed instead of "o K", ("L o" represents "Low Oil Level"and will be followed by the number of quarts the transmission fluid is low. EXAMPLE: o L Lo 02. Where 2 indicates that you are two quarts low. Adding two quarts of fluid will bring the fluid level within the middle of the "o K" zone. If the fluid level is hi, "Hi" will be displayed followed by the number of quarts it is high.

The maximum quarts low that will be displayed is 4. In this case You should add fluid one quart of fluid at a time until the fluid level gets within the "o K" Zone.

When your check is completed just press N (neutral) to exit the diagnostic mode.

The above procedure is covered in your Allison Transmission Owners Manual and there are You Tube videos describing the procedure.

REVISED. Poll ADDED. . How long did your Norcold 1200 run before failure?
SteveD 11 hours ago

I have a 2003 Safari. Bought my coach in 2023 and the unit was failing. Dealer got it to cool prior to purchase and got it home and it was done. 

It was original equipment. New to big coaches I didn’t want to reinvent the wheel so I changed the cooling unit and the board. Been working great ever since. 
 

After all that work joined this forum and started reading about what a piece of crap these units are supposed to be. But… mine is working great so I’ll keep using it until it gives me trouble. 

Captains Chairs Brand-Parts
Jim Roach 11 hours ago

2006 Dynasty- 

The electric and air options on our seats work fine, but the levers that are release the cables are broken. Are they Flexsteel or ?? Not finding a make or info on them in the files.  We just need the lever-flipper black plastic piece for both passenger and drivers sides.  Northwestern RV parts doesn’t have anything that resembles it.

Thanks for any info!

Captains Chairs Brand-Parts
Dr4Film 11 hours ago

REVISED. Poll ADDED. . How long did your Norcold 1200 run before failure?
VinceB 11 hours ago

38 minutes ago, SteveD said:

I have a 2003 Safari. Bought my coach in 2023 and the unit was failing. Dealer got it to cool prior to purchase and got it home and it was done. 

It was original equipment. New to big coaches I didn’t want to reinvent the wheel so I changed the cooling unit and the board. Been working great ever since. 
 

After all that work joined this forum and started reading about what a piece of crap these units are supposed to be. But… mine is working great so I’ll keep using it until it gives me trouble. 

On the upside, you know the complete history and the poll will give you some idea of the expected lifespan.

HWH Air leveling control pad
Greg Coffey 11 hours ago

Thanks Tim, I'll be looking at a rebuild as well.

Captains Chairs Brand-Parts
vito.a 10 hours ago

Monaco diesel coaches use Villa International seats and furniture.  

Dometic- Penguin Data Cable Connector - CORRECT TYPE and SOURCE
Frank McElroy 10 hours ago

On 8/27/2024 at 9:54 AM, Tom Cherry said:

This post is to provide the CORRECT PN and TYPE for the Monaco OEM Connectors that attach the leads from the Control Modules to the Data Cables that run from the Thermostat to the Units and from each unit to the next.

This is for the original 5 Button Units (possibly...probably) the older 4 Buttons.  This is called, by Dometic as the CCC system or Data Cables.  FWIW.  These are NOT PHONE LINES and you can NOT use a piece of Phone cable to test.  This is a Data Communication Cable....a fancy name that says that the RJ11 (male connectors) are NOT terminated or attached the same as a PHONE line.  Again....there are FOUR (4) wires in a phone cable as well as in the Data Cable.  However, the color coding on the Data Cable on each end...is NOT THE SAME as a Phone Line.  There is a section on this in the Penguin manual as to WHICH colors go WHICH WAY.

BUT....the issues have been that the Inline (Female to Female) connectors will wear as in the contacts will deteriorate or have gunk on them.  TWO of the wires carry 12 VDC and that is what actually POWERS the Thermostat(s).  The other TWO lines are a Multiplex Signal from the Thermostat to each control unit.  That is what DRIVES or makes the system WORK.  There is NO HARD or Analog connection.

If you look at the schematic of your MH, you will see that each Air Conditioner has a 12 VDC line.  That is strictly for POWERING the Thermostat.  When you break or disconnect or the connection between one of the control modules is disrupted (unplugged), then the system loses what is called the HANDSHAKE.  Then you have to REBOOT the SYSTEM.  

This system was updated many years ago and NOW there is the Penguin II.  It uses a DIFFERENT Thermostat (10 Button) and different control modules.  It is call CCC2.  BUT, the same Data Communication Cables are used....so there is NO NEED to do anything but use the existing Monaco cables....assuming that the RJ11 (Male Connectors) are in good shape.  FOLKS have had to reterminate the male ends.

BOTTOM LINE....90% or more of the HVAC Posts are issues with a Faulty or LOST connection.  I can say that I have probably typed this and how to reset...as many other contributing members have done literally OVER 100 TIMES.  

OK...It is recommended that one carry SPARE connectors.  If Cleaning and Plugging and Unplugging doesn't work...then the easiest is to INSTALL a new Connector.

THEREIN LIES the issue.  These are NOT the same Connectors that Amazon or others sell.  They are a SPECIAL Data Communication Cable connector.

@AlanC2 has been the FIELD guy that had an issue and alerted me that the NEW connectors he ordered from Amazon did not work.  Then, I spent a LOT of time with a vendor.   And THEN....even after that, it took a LOT of experimenting. 

Here is a source for the connector. 

Dometic OEM Inline Connectors CCC & CCC2 Schematic.pdf 368.02 kB · 17 downloads

Can you send me a word doc or pdf file so I can add this writeup to our file Downloads?

Captains Chairs Brand-Parts
LakeBob 10 hours ago

15 minutes ago, vito.a said:

Monaco diesel coaches use Villa International seats and furniture.  

Look for the manufacturer tag inside the storage pocket on the back of the seat. 
im pretty sure that’s where I found mine. 

Captains Chairs Brand-Parts
Jim Roach 10 hours ago

9 minutes ago, LakeBob said:

Look for the manufacturer tag inside the storage pocket on the back of the seat. 
im pretty sure that’s where I found mine. 

I actually did.  That’s where I’ve found it on other coaches.  But….. not this one.  The link provided by DR4Film has the old style- my style levers.  Ordering 4 in the morning.

Captains Chairs Brand-Parts
Wilwag 10 hours ago

We have a 2007 Dynasty. Our seats were from Villa. They are very helpful. Sent us a new worm gear piece and weren’t too crazy priced.  They ask all sorts of questions to make sure you get the right part  

 

Cabinet latches
veraken 10 hours ago

Here's an alternative and a video showing how to install
 

Trans fluid?
MPfeif 9 hours ago

Transynd is (one of) the recommended fluid, definitely not dexron. I haven't seen it in less than gallon quantities, and I paid $50 for it a couple years ago.

Last time mine was in the shop, they used Mobil 1 DELVAC, another synthetic approved for Allison transmissions.

Here's the link to all the approved fluids REVISED. Poll ADDED. . How long did your Norcold 1200 run before failure?
96 EVO 9 hours ago

2 hours ago, SteveD said:

I have a 2003 Safari. Bought my coach in 2023 and the unit was failing. Dealer got it to cool prior to purchase and got it home and it was done. 

It was original equipment. New to big coaches I didn’t want to reinvent the wheel so I changed the cooling unit and the board. Been working great ever since. 
 

After all that work joined this forum and started reading about what a piece of crap these units are supposed to be. But… mine is working great so I’ll keep using it until it gives me trouble. 

Good to hear, but since it is getting on, I would suggest installing a ARP Fridge Defend on it, just to keep yourself and family safe!

Replaced AC Capacitor - Duo-Therm For It Is Blank
woodylmiller 9 hours ago

I believe I have found the problem, at least one of them, and hopefully the only problem.  To sum things up, I disconnected all the connections, all couplers and danglers.  Removed all the RJ plugs on the control boards.  My front A/C, zone 1, is where it all begins.  Power from a 2 amp circuit located in the rear wardrobe closet is connected to the red and black wires that come down from the roof.  There are 6 wires, danglers from P6 on the control board.  This connection is the ONLY source for the 12vdc power for the control boards.  Power and data then go from unit to unit via the RJ connections, two on each board.  Power at the first connection was measured at 13.8vdc.  But measuring the voltage on the control board was just 10vdc.  I connected a jumper for power from zone 1 to zone 3 to begin, and all other connections disconnected.  All test were done by feeding the input voltage to the board via the red and black dangler wires from the roof.  Voltage at the RJ jack was measured at 12.4vdc.  That would mean that there is circuitry on the board that uses some power before being present at the RJ jack.  Now for some strange reason when 120vac is applied to the unit the voltage at the RJ jack then measures 13.47vdc.  I had my meter connected to one of the RJ jacks and the thermostat was connected to the other RJ jack.  My thermostat came to life, rebooted, got the FF and then ran the fan to see if all is well.  This was repeated for all three units and all responded the same.

So, thermostat is good, the unit functions.  So on to the next tests.  Using my cable tester I started to identify each of the data/power cables in the ceiling.  Then I located the problem.  The cable from zone 3 to zone 2 is shorted.  Not a dead short, but just enough to bleed off about 4vdc and most likely some of the voltage got onto the data conductors, hence the "EE" message on the thermostat.  A dead short to ground would have blown the 2 amp fuse.

The thermostat is good and the units respond to it.  Now to fix the bad cable.  Discussed with Tom how to do that and I think the easiest will be to install a weather/UV resistant wire mold from A/C 3 to 2, surface mounted.  The interior cables will not budge to pull in a new cable that way.  

This was a challenge to get to this point and I'd like to thank Tom Cherry and others for their help and input.  After two days of testing, reading and listening I was able to get to the bottom of my problem.  I started off thinking it must be the thermostat.  After all, I had 12vdc at the thermostat, so without a backlight or any data on screen I thought "what else could it be?".  Well most likely a staple leg punctured the cable and finally through vibration maybe, the data and power conductors decided to shake hands and bring my system down.

I used a multi-meter for voltage and an Ethernet/PoE cable tester for all my tests.  Took some time and plenty of head scratching.  And it helped considerably that Monaco had labeled the A/C control circuit so that I didn't have to search out that part of the system.  I'd like to add that my background is 45 years as an electrician so that helped with understanding circuitry and logic.  But with the right tools for testing, and input from members here, it's doable.  

Thanks again to all,

Woody Miller

09 Dynasty

Captains Chairs Brand-Parts
timaz996 8 hours ago

1 hour ago, vito.a said:

Monaco diesel coaches use Villa International seats and furniture.  

That website also has Villa seats on it.

REVISED. Poll ADDED. . How long did your Norcold 1200 run before failure?
SteveD 8 hours ago

I was reading about those units. They work good? The idea behind them makes sense. 

Trans fluid?
jacwjames 8 hours ago

5 hours ago, 4rickyg said:

Checked my trans fluid through the dipstick today looks like I am a couple quarts low. The fluid is clear not red. Does this mean it is synthetic? Not Dexron 3? Which I think is usually red.

  Do I add the fluid through the dick stick tube? Allison 4000 series, temp was 160 when I checked. I could not get an accurate reading from the keypad it said l o 0 6. Wasn't sure what that meant so I went to the dipstick. Thanks for any info.

The coach has to be parked and stationary for several minutes for it to read correctly.  If you try and check to early it will show a count down. 

Before I'd add any oil I'd drive it to get the temp up and then park and wait while the engine is idling, after ~5 minutes check the level using the shift pad.   If it says add 2 I'd add 1, drive and check again. 

Captains Chairs Brand-Parts
tmw188 8 hours ago

Wow that’s a great link Richard!

Replaced AC Capacitor - Duo-Therm For It Is Blank
DBRV.0 7 hours ago

1 hour ago, woodylmiller said:

Discussed with Tom how to do that and I think the easiest will be to install a weather/UV resistant wire mold from A/C 3 to 2, surface mounted.

Good to hear that you have diagnosed the probable root of your problem!

I believe I am accurate in saying that you have 4 Zones, just like I do.  Your Zones 1,2,3 have one rooftop A/C each, Zone 4 is heat-only for the rear bathroom.  You know that the three A/C units each have their own control board.  Be aware that there is a fourth control board connected via RJ11, between A/C 2 and A/C 3.  That control board is "dip switched" as Zone 4.  What I am saying is that if you connect Zone 3 directly to Zone 2, you will bypass Zone 4's control board.  In other words, the OEM RJ11 sequence is: Thermostat -to- A/C 1 -to- A/C 2 -to- Zone 4 -to- A/C 3.

One option that comes to mind is to go ahead and connect A/C 2 to A/C 3, and substitute the unused dangling RJ11 at A/C 3 for the RJ11 that originally comes from Zone 4 control board.  That way, communication gets back to Zone 4.  If you have a partially shorted wire, this still may not work because the bad RJ11 is still present.

Another, preferred, option I can think if is to one-by-one, replace the RJ11 connectors that lie between A/C 2 and A/C 3 with new connectors.  Assume the wire itself is good.  It is not uncommon for a connector to corrode internally or to have a flaw.

The final option that comes to mind would be to locate the Zone 4 control board, and work that into your solution.  IIRC, Tom says is not sure where it physically resides.  My best guess would be inside the intake plenums of either A/C 2 or A/C 3.

Best wishes with your final solution.

- Jeff

Michelin vs Toyo
Scotty Hutto 7 hours ago

I have a 2006 Diplomat and I’m on my second set of Toyo 295/75R22.5 tires.  The first were M177s, the current set are M154. Next set will likely be M177 if I can find them; my perception is they rode a little smoother… Roughly 70,000 miles over 7+ years and zero problems. 

Replaced AC Capacitor - Duo-Therm For It Is Blank
Frank McElroy 7 hours ago

The first 3 zones MUST be rooftop AC unit.  Any additional heat only circuit board zones MUST be setup as zone 4 - after the AC zones.

So, lets say you have a center bath coach.  Logic would say then you have the front AC as zone 1, the center AC as zone 2, the center bath as zone 3 and the rear bedroom AC as zone 4.  NO, THAT WOULD BE WRONG.  The rear AC MUST be programmed as zone 3 and the center hidden bath zone must be set as zone 4.  That's a requirement of the 5 button remote.  All AC units MUST be before any non AC heat (furnace) only remote control boards.

 

Monaco Embelms
Ken Thompson 6 hours ago

23 hours ago, Ken Thompson said:

I have had a lot of interest and sales of the polished stainless steel “Monaco Dynasty” emblems. I have also had numerous people asking for other model emblems. If anyone has an original emblem, or better yet, the artwork for the other emblems, I could have them made as well. I see there’s a monarch sticker and a diplomat sticker available, but I haven’t found anything for the Monaco Executive, Signature, Winsor, or Camelot coaches. Maybe the moderators have some inside info that would help.

Thanks

Ken Thompson

For those that aren’t on my Dynasty emblem list, or haven’t paid, it’s crunch time! I have 2 more sets of 3 Monaco Dynasty emblems left to sell on this order. After that, it will probably be a while before I will order any more. If anyone wants them, they are $264 for the set of 3 plus shipping. Please email me at 

ken@kensrvservice.com to get them.

Blue ox vs 2003 F-150 or OPTIONS???
Rikadoo 5 hours ago

So i reciently called blue ox to ensure the baseplate is still pn trac for October. I was assured it is, an givin my frustration dealing with “customer service” im optin to wait it out before i hit hit the o💩 bell, guess im just surprised they just dont have surplusses of built units in storage somewhere

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