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Here's what the Monacoers have been talking about:
Index
Discussions
Tom Cherry
9 hours ago, Steve P said:Note that the pics are sideways and I don't know how to rotate them. And the smaller bolts do the height adjusting. There is also a bolt to secure the vertical position that needs to be loosened first and tightened last. The really large bolt controls the horizontal travel, and I haven't messed with that. By the way, T-9 is great for loosening the bolts if they have seized. If I said "raise" at some point, I didnt mean to... Please re-read my first post, where I wrote "you basically lower the huge bolts a bit (like 1/8"), secure everything, and observe the result on 3-4 cycles in and out with the slides. Then adjust more if needed."
EDIT... I tried ONE MORE TIME. I finally got the photos rotated in Photoshop and got them to "EDIT" right. You can see the GREEN GROUND as the reference
As I said... EACH model is (May... PROBABLY) is unique. FORTUNATELY....mine is OK.
Ben ( @96 EVO ) has the SAME one as mine. I your Knight does NOT have rollers, then the "Geometry" or the mechanism of the slide as well as WHAT IT RIDES ON must be understood and adjusted.
AS STATED....and Ben's comments indicate that he is "Thinking about HIS as well as trying to understand the mechanism", YOUR RIG...an Endeavor MAY or MAY NOT be like the KNIGHT's or the Scepter/Camelot's. That is what I have to QUALIFY or offer an example of HOW one Flush Slide works.
You need to do some exploration under the slide. Look at where the plates are. Pull back or peer into the slide from the underside using a flashlight...pull the wiper seal out of the way. IF there are ROLLERS...then they may need to be adjusted.
BUT, if your slide runs totally on the Nylon Glide Cam on the inside....and the slide is tilted or canted IN....as in the slide, when extended, is NOT parallel as in the TOP and Bottom distances, on each side are NOT THE SAME. Then, that needs to be corrected.
Wish I could provide more specific info or guidance...but without a diagram or pictures or understanding of "WHAT's INSIDE...and WHAT THE SLIDE RUNS ON...and HOW IT WORKS", all I can do is offer generic info...
Tom Cherry
13 hours ago, DBRV.0 said:Hooray!
You think YOU ARE HAPPY. Woody is in the NW. I think I heard him yell...
EUREAKA....I HAVE FOUND IT (Google....this.....it was attributed to a Archimedes)....and the GOOGLE is funny. The PUNCH LINE was ... "ER, Buddy, I think you LOST IT. I have been waiting a LONG time to drop this one.
OK....yes... It was LONG and YES...it is fixed....and YES, it helped myself and Frank "confirm and also think TWICE" about some of our understandings. SO, have Woody and Alan and YOUR DIAGRAM....really helps and when folks like you and them go the extra mile and give us "FIELD" help....that makes it easier....as we as increases our confidence, that our recommendations or troubleshooting steps or "LOGIC" works.....
UP SAID IT... HOORAY!
throgmartin
Tim,
Sometimes it is impossible to get enough height to where the plates wont scrape on the floor. There is only so much adjustment in these flush floor slides. My best advice is to use the carpet or slickers.
To everyone else: You need to be careful when adjusting the height of a flush floor slide. Clearance at the top of the slide opening is just one concern. But because this slide tilts as it goes in the leading edge of the slide inside the coach can and will scrape the ceiling. I had a customer drive up to see me from Texas. He took his coach into a service center around Dallas and the techs adjusted his flush floor slide. They got so much height during the adjustment that it dented the roof of the slide and wiped out all the puck lights on the ceiling of the coach. They also got it so tilted in the slide hole that one corner scraped the side wall. It took Dustin, my lead tech, and I several hours to get it back to factory specs.
There are limits to adjusting a flush floor slide. My recommendation is to always take baby steps. Get a helper to operate the slide and have them watch the ceiling inside while you watch on the outside. Never try and adjust a slide by yourself. You cannot be in two places at once.
Tom Cherry
20 minutes ago, throgmartin said:Tim,
Sometimes it is impossible to get enough height to where the plates wont scrape on the floor. There is only so much adjustment in these flush floor slides. My best advice is to use the carpet or slickers.
To everyone else: You need to be careful when adjusting the height of a flush floor slide. Clearance at the top of the slide opening is just one concern. But because this slide tilts as it goes in the leading edge of the slide inside the coach can and will scrape the ceiling. I had a customer drive up to see me from Texas. He took his coach into a service center around Dallas and the techs adjusted his flush floor slide. They got so much height during the adjustment that it dented the roof of the slide and wiped out all the puck lights on the ceiling of the coach. They also got it so tilted in the slide hole that one corner scraped the side wall. It took Dustin, my lead tech, and I several hours to get it back to factory specs.
There are limits to adjusting a flush floor slide. My recommendation is to always take baby steps. Get a helper to operate the slide and have them watch the ceiling inside while you watch on the outside. Never try and adjust a slide by yourself. You cannot be in two places at once.
AMEN @throgmartin…..I HOPED you would chime in….
Mine (newer 2008 and above Scepter/Camelot) has the rollers….I THINK…and the slide, with the plates or where the plates run, are supported…..I THINK (THOUGHT) by the white nylon lift cam and also the roller.
You DID caution about potential scraping and we used the “piece of a carpet scrap” as the protection. PJ McCants tweaked that slide and replace the rivets and adjusted it….a LITTLE.
We also picked up the 8” W X 36” plastic sliders or runways. We use them….but there has never been a scratch on them….not the tile.
OK!!!
Based on your recollections…. Do ALL FLUSH Slides have the supporting rollers, like mine….or are there some that just “ride” on the white plastic/nylon lift cam?
That info or your input would be great as “typically”….many think….ALL MONACO’s are the same. FWIW….the Dynasty with HWH is TOTALLY different on the Flush slide…..compared to mine.
THANKS….
diplomat don
Strange though Rik. I started out driving Cummins with the push and twist expanding dipstick and was always around them as lots of companies have multiple engine brands but the last company was the only engine I saw that issue and they had 2 identical trucks but only the one had that issue. Go figure. Don
96 EVO
My flush floor slide has no rollers!
Dr4Film
Both my 02 Windsor and my 06 Dynasty have no rollers on the flush-floor slide. They both have a long glide bar that it slides over.
Richard H.
I have not read every response 3-4 years but my friend had same issue along with cruise control inoperative. He took it to Rev in Oregon and they said it was an ECU issue and that is Cummins and there is a licensing issue. Cummins was just down the street.
‘Cummins ended up finding the retired guy that worked on the ECU programming in 2005 and brought him in. Six weeks| there and about $5k later and it was fixed.
woodylmiller
Took about a week to find the problem. Constantly losing the 12vdc power on the data/power cables. Making matters worse, the problem was intermittent. Saturday had the system up and running. Then a couple of minutes later the system would crash. Always the low voltage just vanishing. I could test and see that the 12vdc was present on the black/red danglers at zone 1. Never lost that power, I know, I checked it about 100 times. But the data danglers had 0vdc. My guess is a bad relay on the board for zone 1. Got a new board coming.
I replaced all the six danglers for the data/power. New wire, new plugs. Now this is critical; pay attention to the correct wiring at the plugs. And factory telephone cables are 180 degrees out on the factory ends. I have to admit I forgot about this at first, but soon corrected that. The only 4 conductor flat cable I could find was 50 foot telephone cord with the plugs attached at both ends. CUT OFF the plug that has with the locking tab "up" and the wires are yellow, green, red and black. This is WRONG for data cables. You have to have black, red, green and yellow throughout.
Many thanks again to all involved.
Woody Miller
09 Dynasty
martinsimba
Can anyone tell me what years/models IOTA ITS-50R were recalled? I have a new to me 07 Safari Simba with that switch.
Much appreciated!
throgmartin
Just as an FYI:
I plated a flush floor slide for a customer in Oregon. He swore his flush floor slide had rollers. I had never seen that setup so I didn't believe him until I seen the picture he sent me. I sent the picture to a buddy who worked in Monaco's R & D department. He told me Monaco made 50 coaches with flush floor slides that had rollers and glide bars. It was an experiment based on a Newmar design.
Over the course of my career, I ended up plating 30 of the 50. If you have a coach with this setup, you have a very rare bird. Monaco dropped that design because it added to the cost of each coach. The additional cost had to be less than $ 20.00. Did the rollers help ? Yes and no. They did prevent sagging in the corners, but it did nothing for floor rot. That issue had to do with the design of the slide itself.
96 EVO
17 minutes ago, martinsimba said:Can anyone tell me what years/models IOTA ITS-50R were recalled? I have a new to me 07 Safari Simba with that switch.
Much appreciated!
Not sure.
Our 08' Scepter came with that switch!
Tom Cherry
51 minutes ago, martinsimba said:Can anyone tell me what years/models IOTA ITS-50R were recalled? I have a new to me 07 Safari Simba with that switch.
Much appreciated!
DO NOT USE IT. ALL IOTA 50R switches were declared as BAD. IOTA refused to accept liability. The NHTSA Recall was for almost EVER MH or RV manufacturer that had EVER regardless of year….lINSTALLED THEM.
Your ATS was considered as an ORPHAN, per the NHTSA regs. Monaco had FILED FOR Bankruptcy in early 2009. Navistar bought them,,,,but NO LIABILITIES….otherwise they had to pay every creditor. That’s how it works,
Navistar DID recall EVERY RV that was sold by them…with the IOTA 50-R. The Dynasty and above had a combo Surge/ATS. But all the lower ends…..Navistar paid for.
The most used replacement is the ESCO LPT50BRD. The ORDER or layout of the cables on the IOTA is different than the ESCO. Much written here, pull the cover. Label the three cables, SHORE or AC; GENERATOR; LINE OR LOAD OR MAIN PANEL. Then, read the label on the replacement CAREFULLY. Hook it up correctly. Not Rocket Science. Any qualified residental electrician can do it, THE TRICK, use something like Blue Painter’s tspe. Use a Sharpie and LABEL. Double Check.
Use Loctite GREEN on the screws of the NEW Switch, tighten securely all terminals,,,,TWICE. Then, a large screwdriver with a rough shop towel (red or blue rag a REAL mechanic always has in his back pocket) Double wrap the handle. Use the opposite hand (heel) and PUSH the handle so the end is tight in the slot, TORQUE with all you got, that will be around 35 - 40 inch pounds,,,,,that’s the specs.
GOOD LUCK….if you must use it,,,,tighten every screw….but it gets hot. Sometimes catches fire. Personal SAFETY issue.
Tom Cherry
1 hour ago, throgmartin said:Just as an FYI:
I plated a flush floor slide for a customer in Oregon. He swore his flush floor slide had rollers. I had never seen that setup so I didn't believe him until I seen the picture he sent me. I sent the picture to a buddy who worked in Monaco's R & D department. He told me Monaco made 50 coaches with flush floor slides that had rollers and glide bars. It was an experiment based on a Newmar design.
Over the course of my career, I ended up plating 30 of the 50. If you have a coach with this setup, you have a very rare bird. Monaco dropped that design because it added to the cost of each coach. The additional cost had to be less than $ 20.00. Did the rollers help ? Yes and no. They did prevent sagging in the corners, but it did nothing for floor rot. That issue had to do with the design of the slide itself.
You are the expert….but I think my Camelot has them. You commented on that is February 2018 and warned us when you took your measurments.
IT has been a while….NUT I recall squirting a lube like TriFlow on each side a few months ago,
Does your Scepter…or any 2008 or newer Scepter or Camelot owner…for that matter…. Can you lift up the wiper seal from the underside where the white nylon or plastic “glides” go into the body? Is there a black rubber roller there? Or am I hallucinating again?
Thanks for the post, Chris…
96 EVO
2 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:
Does your Scepter…or any 2008 or newer Scepter or Camelot owner…for that matter…. Can you lift up the wiper seal from the underside where the white nylon or plastic “glides” go into the body? Is there a black rubber roller there? Or am I hallucinating again?
Thanks for the post, Chris…
I have installed Guardian Plates on that slide.
I have no rollers on that slide.
Tom Cherry
40 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:I have installed Guardian Plates on that slide.
I have no rollers on that slide.
Thanks. Now….will I succumb to geriatric jokes about memory or go and check….stay tuned….we are in Fringe of TS/TS#10TC/Helene(?) fury
snoracer
3 hours ago, throgmartin said:Tim,
Sometimes it is impossible to get enough height to where the plates wont scrape on the floor. There is only so much adjustment in these flush floor slides. My best advice is to use the carpet or slickers.
To everyone else: You need to be careful when adjusting the height of a flush floor slide. Clearance at the top of the slide opening is just one concern. But because this slide tilts as it goes in the leading edge of the slide inside the coach can and will scrape the ceiling. I had a customer drive up to see me from Texas. He took his coach into a service center around Dallas and the techs adjusted his flush floor slide. They got so much height during the adjustment that it dented the roof of the slide and wiped out all the puck lights on the ceiling of the coach. They also got it so tilted in the slide hole that one corner scraped the side wall. It took Dustin, my lead tech, and I several hours to get it back to factory specs.
There are limits to adjusting a flush floor slide. My recommendation is to always take baby steps. Get a helper to operate the slide and have them watch the ceiling inside while you watch on the outside. Never try and adjust a slide by yourself. You cannot be in two places at once.
Chris - Thanks for replying. I have ordered slide slickers and I will use them along with bath carpets. For everyone else, here's a little more info about my coach. My flush floor slide is operated by an electric motor, not hydraulic. There are no rollers, only the nylon glide bars. I have removed the original carpet and replaced it with LVP. I removed the original RV fridge and replaced it with a Whirlpool residential fridge. The whirlpool is WAY lighter than the original Dometic, and it fit through the entry door. When I removed the dometic, I found that the drain tube for the self defrost had rotted, was broken and had been draining water onto the topside of the floor which added to the rot problem. That's why I decided to have Tallon do the guardian plate install. Also, I removed the jacknife sofa and replaced it with a cabinet/electric fireplace unit. Thanks everyone for all the info.
Docan Power 12v Lithium Batteries
wamcneil
On 9/23/2024 at 11:36 AM, Tom Cherry said:The “GOSPEL” is like the “goodbook” and each religion has their own…. The discharge level should come from the Specific Manufacturer. The discussion or 50% versus the previously printed “Gospel” of being able to drain, without damage, to 80/90% WAS THE POINT.
One needs to know….HOW LOW CAN YOU GO? One needs to fully understand the charging profile and test or ascertain that their Charger meets or will accomlish.
These fundamentals are not often “emphasized” and the “god like virtues” of Lithiums often overshadow the real world. We NOW have more good and solid advice and experiences….that is great.
BUT the road to success has been littered with failures and expensive wasted $$ outlays and unacceptable performance. Many had spent big bucks….and got less than 3 years were disappointed. They usually went back to Flooded. Same happens to AGM. Folks think NO MORE MESSING WITH BATTERIES..but fail to realize….AGM’s require just as much care and exercise as flooded. The only benefit is no Distilled water adding…which takes maybe 5 minutes of the “lets drain and recharge” cycle….
THAT is what we want folks to understand. You have to know WAY more than what you read in a quick overview and you also have to know your system.
Thanks for the input.
Lithium CELLS must never be discharged lower than a specific minimum voltage or permanent irreversible cell damage will occur. Likewise for over-voltage and some other bad conditions.
But you don’t need to worry about those voltages because every lithium BATTERY will have a built in battery management system. The BMS will disconnect the battery if any one cell goes out of range and shut it down before the voltage reaches a critical point. This prevents conditions that will quickly destroy the battery.
It’s fine to run all the way from 100% to 0, but lithium cells prefer to live in the middle of their voltage range and will last longer if not regularly driven to <10% or >90%. They’ll still last a long time if driven hard, but pretty much forever if not driven to the voltage extremes.
Having 4 golf cart batteries is like having a 5 gallon gas tank in your car. When you only have 5 gallons of fuel, you stop at every gas station and spend a lot of time worrying about going lower than 50% and running out of fuel before you finish running your errands.
But a big lithium battery is like having a 20gal fuel tank. You can drive around between 3/4-1/4 tank and not worry about having to stop at every gas station and keep the tank full because you know you’ve always got enough gas to get through the day.
When I moved to lithium, I set my shore power charging parameters more conservatively because I don’t “need” the battery to sit at 100%. When I’m relying on solar, I let it charge more aggressively, but if the battery doesn’t charge to 100% I’m ok with that.
Tom Cherry
29 minutes ago, wamcneil said:Lithium CELLS must never be discharged lower than a specific minimum voltage or permanent irreversible cell damage will occur. Likewise for over-voltage and some other bad conditions.
But you don’t need to worry about those voltages because every lithium BATTERY will have a built in battery management system. The BMS will disconnect the battery if any one cell goes out of range and shut it down before the voltage reaches a critical point. This prevents conditions that will quickly destroy the battery.
It’s fine to run all the way from 100% to 0, but lithium cells prefer to live in the middle of their voltage range and will last longer if not regularly driven to <10% or >90%. They’ll still last a long time if driven hard, but pretty much forever if not driven to the voltage extremes.
Having 4 golf cart batteries is like having a 5 gallon gas tank in your car. When you only have 5 gallons of fuel, you stop at every gas station and spend a lot of time worrying about going lower than 50% and running out of fuel before you finish running your errands.
But a big lithium battery is like having a 20gal fuel tank. You can drive around between 3/4-1/4 tank and not worry about having to stop at every gas station and keep the tank full because you know you’ve always got enough gas to get through the day.
When I moved to lithium, I set my shore power charging parameters more conservatively because I don’t “need” the battery to sit at 100%. When I’m relying on solar, I let it charge more aggressively, but if the battery doesn’t charge to 100% I’m ok with that.
Fascinating reading. Keep posting. Read (few hours) some of the major manufacturers’ specs and data and such. Trojan has yet to come out with a 12 VDC unit. Have a great 48 VDC GC model. As usual, their “Owner Manual” is first class….so, assuming that one, as most manufacturers say, can “series string” FOUR”…so one has a 48 VDC bank, learning about BMS and DoD (DOD). All so far have the specs written for 80% DoD ….as they all say….BEST LIFE EXPECTANCY.
Some say. 99% DoD is OK….asterisk of course….others say 90% DoD is recommended max. Each has a fascinating write up on optimum charging temp ranges…..very narrow…..and then the disclaimer…..capacity is reduced significantly if DoD is outside of “charging” range.
One “Off Shore” guidelines or “holy grail” of how to protect oneself from being “electrically” BLACKED OUT has some interesting and “snide” comments about using RV “grade” electronics and purchasing “RV Grade” Lithiums.
More reading and the comments here as well as the past “how to do it RIGHT” are wonderful resources….as this site is inclined to have.
WOW….BMS with BT that will give you data on your phone….Leaps and Bounds jumps in technology….
Croom352
Well on this stop I got a weird code other than the normal oL ok. It read oL H13. Looked in the Allison manual and did not find anything.
Does anyone have any ideas? Have not checked the dipstick yet.
Thanks,
Dr4Film
Logic tells me that it is stating that Oil Level OL is High 13 quarts. I agree, it sounds really weird.
I am wondering if your TCM needs to be cold booted.
Chargerman
If you do the check using the touch pad after driving it takes a while to settle in to the actual reading although mine has always started off by reading low. Usually around 5 qts but just letting it keep reading it eventually reads oL ok.
folivier
IME what I've found is the manufacturers who "allow" 100% DOD are under rating their batteries, IOW a 100 amp battery may actually be 110 amps in order to provide 100% DOD, at 100 amp. When I built my first system there was not much information on LiFePO4's. There is more empirical info available now. Float or not to float? that was one issue that has changed over the years. In fact when I built my first 1000 amp system I used the existing 1998 model Xantrex inverter/charger. What I did to get the charge volts up high enough was to set a battery temperature to trick the charger into charging at a higher voltage. It worked. But I'd have to turn off the charger once done since the float voltage was higher than I'd like.
Also a Victron BMV-700 series battery monitor or their smart shunt will give you accurate state of charge over bluetooth.
The devil is in the details. Don't get too wrapped up in the details. LiFePO4's work great, last a long time, if you plan to keep your coach that long.
martinsimba
Tom,
I want to THANK YOU for your help, first the trailing arms, fridge safety issue and now this! I hope there are no other major dangers lurking!
Question, I had planned our maiden voyage soon, and it will take to long to get the ESCO brand. I can get the Elkhart LPTBRD on amazon delivered this week. Do you know if it will be sufficient and easily replace the Iota? If not, I would welcome suggestions of where I could get the ESCO brand quickly.
THANK YOU!!!!!!!!!
Guardian Plates scarring floor tile during retraction. 2007 HR Endeavor flush slide.
Happycarz
Some 2008 Camelot/Scepters came with no glides on the bottom of the slides. My buddy’s and mine had none. The bottom of the slide just slid up the Delrin ramp. BTW, no rollers on his or my coach on that flat floor slide.
I started seeing wear on the slide bottom and had Elite RV install aluminum glide plates on three of the fours slides. Depending on the slide Elite used 5”, 7”, or 11” wide plates, made of 3/16“ aluminum . The flat floor slide plate were “skis” as the ends were turned up to not snag on the Delrin ramp. They had been doing this for some time, way before I became aware of Talin. (Chris, were you plating the slide bottoms before you started making Gaurdian Plates?)
Another friend with a 2008 Scepter had flat floor skis shipped to me as he was on the road and would be by later. He had the plastic glides on his slide bottom that were cracked so badly pieces were falling out and screws heads digging into the ramps. Bill Willard made short work of getting his glides renewed. He had no rollers, only the glide ramps.
My right front slide has no plates. It has rollers inside rolling on the floor. It also has 3 rollers in the bays that contact the slide bottom. I can see abnormal wear, but inspect often.
Docan Power 12v Lithium Batteries
wamcneil
3 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:Fascinating reading. Keep posting. Read (few hours) some of the major manufacturers’ specs and data and such. Trojan has yet to come out with a 12 VDC unit. Have a great 48 VDC GC model. As usual, their “Owner Manual” is first class….so, assuming that one, as most manufacturers say, can “series string” FOUR”…so one has a 48 VDC bank, learning about BMS and DoD (DOD). All so far have the specs written for 80% DoD ….as they all say….BEST LIFE EXPECTANCY.
Some say. 99% DoD is OK….asterisk of course….others say 90% DoD is recommended max. Each has a fascinating write up on optimum charging temp ranges…..very narrow…..and then the disclaimer…..capacity is reduced significantly if DoD is outside of “charging” range.
One “Off Shore” guidelines or “holy grail” of how to protect oneself from being “electrically” BLACKED OUT has some interesting and “snide” comments about using RV “grade” electronics and purchasing “RV Grade” Lithiums.
More reading and the comments here as well as the past “how to do it RIGHT” are wonderful resources….as this site is inclined to have.
WOW….BMS with BT that will give you data on your phone….Leaps and Bounds jumps in technology….
It might be more educational to read spec sheets on the bare cells. EVE recommends 10-90%. But they say 6000 cycles running all the way down to 2.5v cutoff voltage before capacity is reduced to 80% of new. Even if run hard, these batteries can last a long time.
It’s a different paradigm. FLA batteries NEED to be kept at 100%. Lithium do not. FLA batteries MUST NOT be deeply discharged. Lithium don’t care.
Float charging isn’t applicable to lithium. When the battery voltage rises to that of the charger, current flow STOPS. As far as the lithium cells are concerned, there is no such thing as float charge because there is no residual trickle current that continues to flow through the battery like with FLA. So, the charger doesn’t necessarily need to “stop” at the end of the cycle because, to the battery, there’s nothing special about the charger’s “float” voltage. Float voltage just needs to be set at some arbitrary voltage that is lower than the charger’s Absorption voltage. (There’s really not much of an absorption phase either, but that’s of little importance).
Once the charger completes its absorption phase, it reduces the voltage and the current STOPS
Here’s an example spec sheet : Guardian Plates scarring floor tile during retraction. 2007 HR Endeavor flush slide.
Jake B
7 hours ago, throgmartin said:Just as an FYI:
I plated a flush floor slide for a customer in Oregon. He swore his flush floor slide had rollers. I had never seen that setup so I didn't believe him until I seen the picture he sent me. I sent the picture to a buddy who worked in Monaco's R & D department. He told me Monaco made 50 coaches with flush floor slides that had rollers and glide bars. It was an experiment based on a Newmar design.
Over the course of my career, I ended up plating 30 of the 50. If you have a coach with this setup, you have a very rare bird. Monaco dropped that design because it added to the cost of each coach. The additional cost had to be less than $ 20.00. Did the rollers help ? Yes and no. They did prevent sagging in the corners, but it did nothing for floor rot. That issue had to do with the design of the slide itself.
I have a 2004 Imperial 40PDT mid door coach. It has rollers and nylon glides on the flush floor slide. I guess I have a rare bird.
RIPPPA
7 hours ago, Richard H. said:I have not read every response 3-4 years but my friend had same issue along with cruise control inoperative. He took it to Rev in Oregon and they said it was an ECU issue and that is Cummins and there is a licensing issue. Cummins was just down the street.
‘Cummins ended up finding the retired guy that worked on the ECU programming in 2005 and brought him in. Six weeks| there and about $5k later and it was fixed.
I am aware of a guy on 1st Monaco Facebook page that Rev was able to get his ‘05 Dynasty Jake working. I just haven’t been interested yet in the 32 hour, 2034 mile trek to Coburg, Oregon yet. I did speak to Rev in Illinois last fall about it and they said they would look at it but that’s still 11 hours one way with little assurance of any success. I guess I’ll give it one more shot in Oct when I get the coach back home from Colorado then I guess I’ll be off to Illinois or Oregon next.
thanks for your input.
20 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:If one of the Jake brake stages are working, then it's important to know if the engine ECM is seeing the signal from the other Jake brake Hi/Low dash switch setting. The Cummins Insite software will tell the tech if the engine ECM is getting the correct command signals. If it is, then the problem is between the engine ECM and the Jake brake solenoid or an oil leak in the Jake brake mechanism. If the Engine ECM is not getting the proper signal, then the issue is in the coach wiring, armrest switch or optional engine brake foot switch.
Thanks. I’ll save this for my next attempt.
wamcneil
1 hour ago, folivier said:IME what I've found is the manufacturers who "allow" 100% DOD are under rating their batteries, IOW a 100 amp battery may actually be 110 amps in order to provide 100% DOD, at 100 amp. When I built my first system there was not much information on LiFePO4's. There is more empirical info available now. Float or not to float? that was one issue that has changed over the years. In fact when I built my first 1000 amp system I used the existing 1998 model Xantrex inverter/charger. What I did to get the charge volts up high enough was to set a battery temperature to trick the charger into charging at a higher voltage. It worked. But I'd have to turn off the charger once done since the float voltage was higher than I'd like.
Also a Victron BMV-700 series battery monitor or their smart shunt will give you accurate state of charge over bluetooth.
The devil is in the details. Don't get too wrapped up in the details. LiFePO4's work great, last a long time, if you plan to keep your coach that long.
Yep. I suspect cell capacity variation and balance is a big factor in how the batteries are rated. If the cells are carefully matched in capacity and exactly balanced, then the battery can be used from 0-100 just fine. But if any one cell has significantly lower capacity, or otherwise out of balance, it’ll trigger the BMS to shut down the battery when the one cell hits it’s upper or lower limit.
Especially at the lower price points, there’s not gonna be a lot of quality control and deliberate cell balancing going on.
It’s probably more cost effective to use bigger cells and de-rate the battery than to match and balance.
Bill R
22 hours ago, CAT Stephen said:Check out my post on Navitrac tires here:
Stephen - now that it has been 8 months since putting on the Navitrac tires, do you have an updated review of the performance?
96 EVO
1 hour ago, Happycarz said:Some 2008 Camelot/Scepters came with no glides on the bottom of the slides. My buddy’s and mine had none. The bottom of the slide just slid up the Delrin ramp. BTW, no rollers on his or my coach on that flat floor slide.
Harry, my Scepter came with the 'ski's' as you call them.
They were beginning to crumble on my last trip, before I installed Gauardian Plates on that slide, and removed them.
RoadTripper2084
Alright folks, my turn to share my belt-line related angst with the group.
So when I bought the coach it had slightly popped belt-lines at the DS front, rear, and PS rear top corners such that the silicone sealant starting to fail and the belt-line was visibly separating from the sidewall. This was late fall and winter was days to weeks away so I took it to an RV shop and instructed them to fix the corners and reseal. They were unable to secure new screws into the corners (they claimed there was nothing to screw them into that was holding), so I had them use a bunch of silicone under and around the belt-lines to secure them and waterproof them as best as could be done in a half a day's work. This "worked" until this year where the DS seam between the windshield and the driver's side wind is once again separating from the sidewall.
Having read all the advice and watched the youtube videos on belt-line repair, I purchased a number of stainless steel rivets and related tooling etc. to tackle this repair properly. I am now working on this with a good weather window and a week off from work.
Today, I discovered that there doesn't seem to be any steel behind the seam in question, just wood. I was able to drill a new hole through the aluminum belt-line strip and the bit sank 1 1/2" without hitting anything harder than the relatively soft wood. Fortunately, the bit did not protrude through the padded vinyl they used on the interior of that area.
My coach is a '97 Dynasty, and is all-steel in construction (no slides). Does this mean that none of my belt-lines are secured into steel beams, just the wood framing? ...or is it only the case in this narrow area between the windshield and side window?
They used 1" self tapping screws at the factory from what I can see. The screws haven't rusted or broken, but stripped out of the wood. It is possible the wood is water damaged and rotten.
So I have a "situation" here and a short time to rectify it.
With no steel to anchor the rivet to I was thinking of trying to anchor a larger SS screw (#10 or #12, 1") and possibly filling the holes with wood glue and some broken off bamboo skewers to add volume and strength.
In addition to figuring out how to secure the belt-line, with all the proflex all over the place there is no way I'm going to be able to remove it completely for a clean re-seal in this area, so I was thinking I could add some Butyl tape under the belt-line to provide a solid flexible sealing barrier (just in this area) and then just use Proflex as usual around the outside of the belt-line cover and hope for the best.
CAT Stephen
On 9/22/2024 at 9:11 PM, Tom Cherry said:Curiosity….from trying to learn and understand the pros and cons of the Lithium conversions.
Thought that 80/90% SOC Discharge level was one of primary reasons for conversion…so one could boondock for entended periods?.?
Next, how does one, with a simple “setup” like the plain vanilla Magnum know the correct state of charge? With the 80/90% SOC discharge, one could, I thought, use a “rough” voltage number?
Does any Lithium Conversion “REALLY” need a shunt type “Battery Monitor Kit”? So one can set an alarm, and like the Magnum, and there are, as posted” many other equivalent brands and models, then have realtime monitoring….thus preventing damage?
”ASKING FOR A FRIEND”….as this topic “might” be covered at the Gathering….in a presentation.
Seriously….just trying to learn and understand….and maybe shed the false depiction as Mr. LITHIUM Hater…
Thanks….feel free to expound and post…..
Here are the LiPO4 battery facts:
-
To maximize the Cycle life of any LiPO4 battery to yield 6000-8000+ discharge cycles, the battery should not be discharged below 20% on a regular basis.
- Discharging below 20% on a regular basis shortens the cycle life by ~15-30%, regardless of false claims by shady LiPO4 battery manufacturers. Its just a truth of LiPO4 battery chemistry.
-
To maximize the Cycle life of any LiPO4 battery to yield 6000-8000+ discharge cycles, each LiPO4 battery model requires the use of custom charging parameters.
- Unlike lead acid / AGM batteries, each LiPO4 battery manufacturer specify precise charging parameters that must be utilized to obtain 6000-8000+ discharge cycles.
-
Using a lead acid charger with an LiPO4 battery bank will result in charger faults and potential damage to other electrical system components. Any manufacturer that claims otherwise is providing deceptive marketing information as the truth is driven by LiPO4 battery chemistry.:
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Docan Power 12v Lithium Batteries
CAT StephenOn 9/23/2024 at 8:10 AM, cbr046 said:Sam's Club GC2 $120 x2 = $240 for 12V @ 215Ah . . . . or Docan $380 for 12V @ 230Ah. Seems like a pretty good deal (and for an extra $30 I'd get the 300Ah anyway . . . x2).
But it's always "everything else" holding me back. Whether legacy Magnum or Xantrex, they aren't made for charging / maintaining LiFePO batteries so I'd be looking at a new LiFePO capable inverter anyway . . . and might as well get PSW . . . . with a 3000W upgrade.
Same for alternator charging. While some trust the engine alternator to not overheat, or send overvoltage to the battery, I'd still go with a DC-DC charger.
And a monitoring system, with Bluetooth of course.
So $820 for LiFePO sounds like a "deal" (and it is), it's the other $2000 I'm concerned about. And haven't even thought about solar yet.
But still very tempting . . . .
- bob
Hello @cbr046,
If you go the Vicrton Energy route like I did, you will drop ~$2K for the Victron Energy Multiplus II 3KVA Inverter Charger and needed accessories (shunt, battery disconnect, ect.) and get a 6 year bumper to bumper warranty (available only from https://currentconnected.com) with premium white glove support.But, if you are seeking high value and are willing to forgo a long term warranty and associated premium support, I recommend that you consider this all-in-one combination inverter/charger/solar controller. This controller brand (MPP Solar) has been extensively tested by Will Prowse and IS THE VALUE LEADER in the industry:
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Tires questions sizing and brand
CAT StephenAfter 8 months and ~4000 miles on these PowerKing Navitrac bus tires, I continue to be astounded by the smooth ride and shock absorption versus my previous Hercules Strong RA tires.
I highly recommend the PowerKing Navitrac bus tires due to the overall ride, excellent handling, and value.
Docan Power 12v Lithium Batteries
pwhittle@CAT Stephen I have read and considered all that you posted above many times before but thought I would try these Docan Power Batteries. They were less than half the price of replacing the Lifeline AGM’s that were in there, and so far have out performed them.
My Magnum MS2812 is configurable enough to use but it is admittedly an upgrade from the 2005 MSW inverter that was original equipment. I was already using the custom settings with my AGM batteries to compensate for the long battery leads that Monaco installed. Also the ML-ACR replacement of the Big Boy adds to the simplicity and flexibility of the system.
if I still had the original inverter and the Big Boy, I would likely have made a different decision, but based on my personal observations, I would buy these batteries again for whatever solution I decided on.
It has only been a few months, but so far my experience is very positive. I will report back again, positive or negative.
Slide Motor Issues
Gene YOn 9/22/2024 at 7:42 AM, pwhittle said:Run a large cable from the extra lug to frame ground.
i helped a friend install that on his 2003 Signature, and it has been working fine.
Thanks again Paul, ordering it now!
Did as Paul W suggested, installed new motor and ground cable! All is well and working perfectly! Thanks again Paul!
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Tires questions sizing and brand
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Docan Power 12v Lithium Batteries
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