Monacoers Daily News

Had a wood laminate floor installed in my Cheetah.

Installer said slide went in/out no issues.  I drove it home........... scratches.   Found one end of slide out had rollers with flats on them.  Used plastic strips with rubber backing to put under slider while bringing it in [all ok on the kitchen side].   Having new rollers installed.  Will continue with strips.

@martinsimba That ATS is the same as the ESCO with a different label.

That very same ATS has been in my previous 02 Windsor since it came from the factory in 2001. Still going strong with no problems.

Go for it!

Someone else will have to answer how easy to replace. I have read where the wires going into and out of the IOTA ATS are in different locations than the Lyght ATS. You may have to reconfigure your cables.

It looks like you have wood in there but the beltline screws must be missing it or are too short to get a good grip. If you have some that are mousing the wood I would pull off the trim inside and add another piece of wood for the screws to hit clearly there isn’t any metal there so the rivets wouldn’t work

I had the same problem with a bad thermal switch. I found a used compressor on eBay that was in a dentist’s office and paid around $100 for it. It’s been working fine for a few years now so you might want to check eBay and marketplace you may get lucky. From what I have found they aren’t designed to be in the elements and dirt and moisture gets in the motor housing and causes them to fail. Some relocate them but I just rapped mine with a waterproof breathable type foam that protects it from dust and dirt. I still have my old one and just can’t throw it out. I would like to fix it and have as a spare. 

15 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

@martinsimba That ATS is the same as the ESCO with a different label.

That very same ATS has been in my previous 02 Windsor since it came from the factory in 2001. Still going strong with no problems.

Go for it!

Someone else will have to answer how easy to replace. I have read where the wires going into and out of the IOTA ATS are in different locations than the Lyght ATS. You may have to reconfigure your cables.

LONG STORY.  SUPPOSEDLY…. LYGHT was formed by the REAL engineers or “BRAINS” that left IOTA as they TRIED to warn management.  GOOD CAMPFIRE Tale.

BUT ESCO purchased LYGHT.  They originally used the ESCO name and LOT50BRD in the catalog….when I bought mine….it was “marketed” as that.  Subsequently they changed…or maybe I didn’t keep up.

IT IS THE SAME. Richard is correct. When I called ESCO and asked for a recommendation for the IOTA replacement….they said LPT50BRD.  They had a tank of a switch, loved and used on several Monaco’s…but it was an AC Circuit unit.  The contactors “HUM or BUZZ”.  Many, like me, can’t hear that frequency….but the WIVES did.

SO, they needed a low voltage DC design.  They probably “tried to reverse engineer” the Lyght.  Then, they BOUGHT IT…

Nuff SAID?

BUY IT…..install correctly. Mine has been in use forever…..and I have 30A storage service.

Good Luck.  
 

NOW….most or many folks install a Progressive Industries (or equivalent) Hard Wired Surge Suppressor…. The HW50C and it MUST go on the SHORE cable….then it feeds the SHORE input of the ATS.

BOTH are field serviceable and both have stellar reputations and are “Robust”.

Research….the Progressive also protects the ATS.

12 hours ago, CAT Stephen said:

@Tom Cherry,

Here are the LiPO4 battery facts:

• To maximize the Cycle life of any LiPO4 battery to yield 6000-8000+ discharge cycles, the battery should not be discharged below 20% on a regular basis. 
  • Discharging below 20% on a regular basis shortens the cycle life by ~15-30%, regardless of false claims by shady LiPO4 battery manufacturers.  Its just a truth of LiPO4 battery chemistry.
• To maximize the Cycle life of any LiPO4 battery to yield 6000-8000+ discharge cycles, each LiPO4 battery model requires the use of custom charging parameters. 
  • Unlike lead acid / AGM batteries, each LiPO4 battery manufacturer specify precise charging parameters that must be utilized to obtain 6000-8000+ discharge cycles.
  • Using a lead acid charger with an LiPO4 battery bank will result in charger faults and potential damage to other electrical system components.  Any manufacturer that claims otherwise is providing deceptive marketing information as the truth is driven by LiPO4 battery chemistry.:
    • Docan Power 12v Lithium Batteries
      wamcneil 21 hours ago

      11 hours ago, pwhittle said:

      @CAT Stephen I have read and considered all that you posted above many times before but thought I would try these Docan Power Batteries. They were less than half the price of replacing the Lifeline AGM’s that were in there, and so far have out performed them.

      My Magnum MS2812 is configurable enough to use but it is admittedly an upgrade from the 2005 MSW inverter that was original equipment. I was already using the custom settings with my AGM batteries to compensate for the long battery leads that Monaco installed. Also the ML-ACR replacement of the Big Boy adds to the simplicity and flexibility of the system.

      if I still had the original inverter and the Big Boy, I would likely have made a different decision, but based on my personal observations, I would buy these batteries again for whatever solution I decided on.

      It has only been a few months, but so far my experience is very positive. I will report back again, positive or negative.

      It's a slippery slope... If you rip out the entire system, extensive rewiring, complete re-engineering of the system, there are some awesome advantages to be gained. 

      But you can also gain a lot of advantages by simply upgrading within the stock configuration. Like you said, that ms2812 is configurable enough to take advantage of the new battery technology. Just upgrading the batteries sounds to me like a great cost/benefit ratio in your case.

      
      

Belt Line Repair
jacwjames 21 hours ago

My suggestion would be to remove the drivers side window and take a good look at the area.  If the aluminum extrusion doesn't have something solid to fasten too it will be difficult to seal. 

I'm almost positive there is metal behind there, I've had my window out to fix the fogging.  Not hard, but will probably take two people,  I did mine myself but not recommended. 

I had to repair a large area of delamination on the passenger side rear where the roof and rear cap come together.  I think the body flex broke the upper beltline seal and let water get in.  I removed the beltline to repair the delam with epoxy then reattached, I had metal behind the aluminum. 

Sauer-Danfoss FDCA
joefromperry 21 hours ago

I'm looking to replace my Sauer-Danfoss FDCA control because the fan runs full on all the time. I've been talking with Source Engineering about their wax valve replacement, but they haven't  had any in stock for months,  and don't know when they'll have them again. My question: the picture of the control with the 1091140 number is my current one, and the other with number 1090943 is a possible replacement, and I need to know if they are the same. Thanks.

 

Sauer-Danfoss FDCA
Dr4Film 21 hours ago

I doubt very much that the latter one would work. I am guessing that the S/W Parameter number has a major bearing on its function.

Thomas compressor rebuild info
MHRookie 20 hours ago

All,

     A few hours after posting forget it… I got an email from Nor-cal controls (people were on vacation)..  here is the answer I got..

Thomas advised the current part number is 627243 for the brushcard assy.  Price is $16.25.  Lead time is 4 weeks.

I have asked about how/who to order from…. Expect an answer today.

we’ll see what happens.

Thanks,

IOTA 50-R FAILURE - intermittent shore power - SAFETY & FIRE HAZARD
martinsimba 20 hours ago

Tom,

Thank you again! Few questions, your thoughts appreciated:

1. I have a power watchdog surge protector, will that be sufficient? I am getting wary of my novice skills and want to minimize what must be done.

2. My service is 50A, I want to be sure this will work for me since you mentioned yours is 30A.

3. I am assuming I need to turn off the disconnect switches on the batteries before the repair,  do I need to disconnect the ground cables and turn off breakers?

4. Some of my engine codes were removed before I purchased my rig, (by a shop that couldn't find the issue so they just cleared them!) I just had them added back by CAT. Hoping that a battery disconnect will not remove the codes just added in? 

I will follow your superb detailed directions for the install of the switch-I am very thankful for the help and step by step instructions!

Sauer-Danfoss FDCA
joefromperry 20 hours ago

30 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:

I doubt very much that the latter one would work. I am guessing that the S/W Parameter number has a major bearing on its function.

Yeah. I just went outside to compare the pictures with the actual unit, and the connectors are different. Thanks. Guess I'll keep looking.

 

Allison Transmission Fluid Check Protocol
Croom352 20 hours ago

Thanks for both of the replies. Transmission dip stick is not overly high or low.

So on the next stop I will let it idle longer after the trip and see what happens.

If same, cold booting TCM. Do you mean unplugging TCM for 1 minute or so then replugging it in?

Thanks again!

Sauer-Danfoss FDCA
RIPPPA 20 hours ago

First off I would stay away from the Source Engineering Wax Valve system as it has a delayed response to temp changes and will allow the temp to go up faster than the wax valve can respond from what I have been told. I got into this discussion with John Davis ex Country Coach and Monaco tech a few weeks ago when I was looking for a replacement fan motor. I would call Northwest RV parts in Eugene OR and see if they can help you locate one. 541-746-9092. 
If that doesn’t work I would check with Dan-Foss dealers in the US   

Help identifying my exhaust brake on a Catapilar C7 350
Cajunboy1959 20 hours ago

Good morning, 

Please see attached photos. Can anyone tell me if this is my exhaust brake on my Catapilar C7 engine?

Dipstick pops out
Timo in WI 20 hours ago

A quick Blow-by test on the Cummins B&C Series engine is:  loosen the oil fill cap (on the timing cover) with the engine running at idle.  If the cap "dances" on the fill tube, it's an indicator that there is excess pressure in the crankcase.  The cap won't "dance" on a better? engine.  I don't know if this indicator test is applicable on an ISL since the cap is on the valve cover, and at is larger/heavier.    An "unhealthy"/consistent amount of blow-by will cause oil leaks at the front and rear crankshaft seal.  Also, did the dipstick pop-out when the unit was heavily loaded, long uphill pull, high boost situation.   None of this solves the situation, but gives an indication of supporting symptoms.  

Help identifying my exhaust brake on a Catapilar C7 350
Dr4Film 20 hours ago

Probably, but you need to look at the top of it. I have attached a photo of the top of a Cat C7 engine with the exhaust brake on the lower right. It has the shiny silver cylinder with the lever.

Allison Transmission Fluid Check Protocol
Dr4Film 19 hours ago

38 minutes ago, Croom352 said:

Thanks for both of the replies. Transmission dip stick is not overly high or low.

So on the next stop I will let it idle longer after the trip and see what happens.

If same, cold booting TCM. Do you mean unplugging TCM for 1 minute or so then replugging it in?

Thanks again!

Before you touch the TCM, did you follow the Testing Protocol exactly as described by @David Pratt in his previous post? The same procedure will be in your Allison Transmission Owners Manual.

Docan Power 12v Lithium Batteries
pwhittle 19 hours ago

Right Walter.

My batteries only upgrades worked for me in my situation.

i really started this thread to share my personal experience with the Docan batteries more than my upgrade.

Their price point is as low as I found, and I think it may be lower than if I built the packs myself.

Paul 

Sauer-Danfoss FDCA
jacwjames 19 hours ago

My wax valve seems to respond pretty quick and keeps the engine running a decent temp.  My was valve is mounted in the upper back corner of the radiator.  It might make a difference where the was valve is mounted but I believe the wax valve in the Source kit is located in the elbow coming off the engine to the radiator, which would be the best place since it is seeing temps coming from the engine. 

The Source kit is nothing special and anyone could purchase the pieces individually.   I believe Northwest rv has wax valves, you can get an adapter to weld on the coolant elbow, and hose extensions.    If you want to save $$$ get the wax valve from Whitehouse Products and save ~1/3. 

Allison Transmission Fluid Check Protocol
Croom352 19 hours ago

Thanks, I'll start back at the beginning and go thru the pinpoint test in the manual. Make sure no codes, etc.

Help identifying my exhaust brake on a Catapilar C7 350
Craggar 18 hours ago

Pretty sure in your last picture it’s on the right and you can see where it goes in between the exhaust and turbo.

Sauer-Danfoss FDCA
waterskier_1 18 hours ago

I have the same experience as Jim J.  I agree with Tim Boone, from a theoretical point of view.  The idea of the Electronic Controller was to anticipate when more cooling would be needed.  It took parameters from the ECU and others, like the dash A/C.  If you turned on the dash A/C, it would make the fan run faster.  If it sensed an engine load (turbo boost) it would make the fan run faster.  These examples show the intent to begin cooling BEFORE the temp rise was detected.  The wax valve can only react to a temperature rise that has already occurred.  The FDCA could have been a great device, if it were no plagued with problems.  Many have "converted" to the "old" wax valve because it is much simpler, and has worked fine for decades.  I was surprised to find that my 2005 Exec with a Detroit Diesel came with the wax valve.  I have not had any problems.  Yes, I see the temp start to rise as I climb a steep grade, but the fan does come on, and maintains a safe temp even at full throttle.  I had no problems with it on my 1997 Dynasty either.

  -Rick N.

Dipstick pops out
timaz996 18 hours ago

I had this problem four years ago and replaced the expansion boot on the dipstick and it solved.

Sauer-Danfoss FDCA
timaz996 18 hours ago

I am with Jim, I had to replace my wax valve in 2017 when I bought my coach and I bought it from White House products in the UK. Before I retired I was still living in Phoenix and would climb out of the valley with temperatures above 110° And never saw my coach get above 198. I do keep the two brass plugs so I can cap the lines going to the wax valve if it ever fails until I can replace it. 

Dipstick pops out
96 EVO 18 hours ago

Don't know why, but I read on IRV forum, more hi crankcase pressure faults on 425HP ISL's than any other Cummins engines 🤔.

Detroit, MI to KC, MO best routing for 45' + Pacifica
Mi Bill 17 hours ago

This is MiBill. We have a 2009 Monaco Dynasty Regal IV and dolly a 2019 Chrysler Pacifica, so we are almost 70 feet long. We must travel from our home just above Detroit, Michigan, to Kansas City, Missouri, in the middle of October. I do not have a dedicated RV GPS. I have RV life; however, I have used their stand-alone GPS and found it wanting. I have checked Google Maps and WAZE. I have multiple routes to get us to our Worlds of Fun Village campground. However, these are all for cars and not RV routes.

The routes are:

1.      I-94, I-75, I-70, I-435

2.      I-94, I-69, I-70

3.      I-94, I-80, I-55, US-32, I-72, US-32, I-35, I-435

4.      I-94, I-80, I-35, I-435

I’m not a fan of two-lane or limited-access roads.

Suggestions would be appreciated.

Also, tips for campgrounds along the way would be great. We hope to do about 250-300 miles a day.

Thank you.

Bill

586.610.8692

 

IOTA 50-R FAILURE - intermittent shore power - SAFETY & FIRE HAZARD
cbr046 17 hours ago

2 hours ago, martinsimba said:

Tom,

Thank you again! Few questions, your thoughts appreciated:

1. I have a power watchdog surge protector, will that be sufficient? I am getting wary of my novice skills and want to minimize what must be done.

2. My service is 50A, I want to be sure this will work for me since you mentioned yours is 30A.

3. I am assuming I need to turn off the disconnect switches on the batteries before the repair,  do I need to disconnect the ground cables and turn off breakers?

4. Some of my engine codes were removed before I purchased my rig, (by a shop that couldn't find the issue so they just cleared them!) I just had them added back by CAT. Hoping that a battery disconnect will not remove the codes just added in? 

I will follow your superb detailed directions for the install of the switch-I am very thankful for the help and step by step instructions!

A 1. - No, a Power Watchdog won't keep an IOTA transfer switch from burning your coach to the ground.

This might sound harsh but you might want to enlist a professional, or at least someone with electrical experience.  It doesn't have to be an RV shop.  The costs of failure are too high.

- bob

Sauer-Danfoss FDCA
jacwjames 17 hours ago

I guess you have to decide which option is the lessor of two evils.  The thermovalve had been used in a lot of coaches and yes there have been reports of some failures but not many compared to the number of the electronic type.  I see reports of the electronic failure across a lot of different manufacturers.  And the cost to replace is high if you can even find a replacement. 

Sauer-Danfoss FDCA
Tom Cherry 16 hours ago

Don’t remember if you have posted this before or been involved in the past discussions?

Is it BROKEN as in, does NOT WORK?

It it works, as in “full speed”, have you disassembled the controller.  Many times there is moisture inside that is the cause. A RIP Member disassembled his.  He then cleaned up the corrosion. I THINK he dried out the electronic or maybe used WD-40 to purge the moisture and then electronic cleaner.  Then, to prevent future issues, he mounted the electronics or controller 180 deg from Original. That prevented any moisture or condensation l

He drove the MH for years…no a further issues. A member bought it and has not, to the best of my knowledge, had issues.

I agree with Jim.  The controller was a solution to a problem that did not exist….and was a “HIGH TECH MARKETING” selling point….  The wax controller was a robust, proven system….highly reliable….

That’s what i have read and the synopsis of countless emails on the old site and posts here….spanning 15 years.

IOTA 50-R FAILURE - intermittent shore power - SAFETY & FIRE HAZARD
Tom Cherry 15 hours ago

4 hours ago, martinsimba said:

Tom,

Thank you again! Few questions, your thoughts appreciated:

1. I have a power watchdog surge protector, will that be sufficient? I am getting wary of my novice skills and want to minimize what must be done.

2. My service is 50A, I want to be sure this will work for me since you mentioned yours is 30A.

3. I am assuming I need to turn off the disconnect switches on the batteries before the repair,  do I need to disconnect the ground cables and turn off breakers?

4. Some of my engine codes were removed before I purchased my rig, (by a shop that couldn't find the issue so they just cleared them!) I just had them added back by CAT. Hoping that a battery disconnect will not remove the codes just added in? 

I will follow your superb detailed directions for the install of the switch-I am very thankful for the help and step by step instructions!

Already have some advice.

Technically, the 12 VDC can be ON.  JUST TRIP or turn off the GENNY.  NOW if you turn off the HOUSE, that gives you another layer of protection…

If you have an AGS, there will be a “pigtail” or connextor on it.  DISCONNECT that. So, you have NO manner or method for the Genny to start ACCIDENTALLY.  

Chassis can be on.  Codes stay LOCKED IN to ECM.  The ECM is on a FUSED HOT Chassis line to the ECM.  SO, turning off the Chassis switch does NOT power down the ECM.

OBVIOUSLY no SHORE is hooked up.  I never bothered to trip my main 50 Amp breaker….

IF you have a PEDESTAL Powerdog…..yes….it DOES provide protection.  Since the ATS is downstream,  PERSONALLY, I got rid of my 50A Surge Guard.  I had put in two 50 Am plugs…and had mine installed on the SHORE ….right before the ATS.  So, it was HARDWIRED like the Profresive.  A could also bypass it by plugging the Male (attached to the ATS) into the Female on the Shore.

THAT was a good solution as it gave me protection from a wiring problem in the Shore.  BUT the Surge Guard was a piece of crap….i had bought it new…before I learned more.  

NOW….many folks use Double Protection….as in a Pedestal and a Surge Protector style ATS.  

The reason you want a hard wired surge protector is that you can HAVE a wiring problem in the SHORE.  How I KNOW?  SIMPLE…it happened to me.  One day, I opened a bay door…..the gas strut then took over and it was like a door closer….it gently, NOT SLAMMED, the door into the OEM 50 A plug.

30 minutes later….I realized….NO AC. My Progressive HW50C…..shut down. That gentle tap damaged the internal crimp from the neutral wire to the neutral lug.  BINGO! The most FEARED and most costly, often common issue….OPEN NEUTRAL. When there is NO NEUTRAL, then the electrons go crazy.  The Line 1 backfeeds into the Line 2 or vice versa.  I had 175 VAC on a 120 VAC circuit….both LINE 1 and LINE 2 were on a “reduced voltage” 240 service. That will fry whatever is on,  TV’s; AC; heaters in the refrigerator or kill a res refer; the Inverter…..

One member finally got a $30K settlement from the CG.  Mine was on my side.  Had I NOT have had the hardwired HW50C…..OMG.

Now….was that a ONE OFF.  Not really.  We have at least 2 or so “bad 50A” male plugs each year….average. I figured it out…and THANKED Tommy Famelli, the inventor and then owner of Progressive..  YES RARE….but Rare usually costs MORE.

THAT is why we recommed having a “Surge/AC Monitor” device…immediately before the ATS….rather than on the Pedestal. There are 4 connections downstream prior to the ATS. One of mine got broken…it does happen…

Docan Power 12v Lithium Batteries
Tom Cherry 15 hours ago

TO MAKE IT CLEAR….this is a GREAT  DISCUSSION.  We have had many such.  Paul’s background and expertise is a resource. I am “making comments” for knowledge as well as to sort of provoke some meaningful discourse. The Topic and the others will be one of the critical components that will be blended into the BATTERY 101 discussion.  So.  Keep it civil and going….. It sort of, to me, takes a different approach.  Some previous ones were great.  Some had the “MUST DO THIS….ONLY LOGICAL THING TO DO”….as in, Lithiums are the salvation of RV Battery issues.  

Thanks for understanding….and feel free to comment, as long as it is “factual” and practical and obeys the underlying professional discussion parameters of the site.

 

 

Allison Transmission Fluid Check Protocol
Tom Cherry 15 hours ago

OK

I do NOT think that the TCM has any interface with the Fluid Level diagnostic system.

When the word “mess” with the TCM or such comes up….a CAVEAT. Unless you have an Allison plug in and download all the TCM parmaters….in an electronic or printed copy format….NEVER MESS with the TCM. There is NO COPY of what Monaco and Allison and Cummins (CAT or DD) agreed to.  This comes from several one on one with Allison tech support as well as a few Allison Reps presentations at the Gatherings. AND reatoring it with the shift points and such is an ART, based on knowing the HP, Torque, RPM’s and the weight of the MH and the tire size and the differential ratios…

It is based on Monaco’s EXPERIENCE and Allison and Cummins HAVE to agree….they are the tech support. There is NO TCM SETUP associated with Allison inntheir files for your Tranny SN.

NEXT.  The only reason that ALLISON does a Cold Boot…assuming no “overriding” factors to determine good connections is to ERASE the Driver’s LEARNED Habiits. There have been cases, related by a member….and others.  They babied the tranny for optimum fuel economy and “taught” the Allison some bad habits….like poor perfmance and erratic shifting….to the point, it was annoying and also concern that “it were BROKE”.

On the test drive, the tech pulled over….did his magic….and then had the owner drive it.  OMG….you fixed it.  Smirking (member’s exact words) the tech explained….he killed power.   Let it sit…the volatile memory was gone.  So, there was no “personal preferences” saved.

He also said that the tech said to “do an aggressive start” or drive it a bit harder…..not for economy….that would keep it “thinking mornally” and not in some unrealistic “economy dream world”. I quit trying to eek out every hundredth of a GPM.  The member also admitted, he NEVER used the cruise….the RES was TOO aggressive….to his liking and the years of babying it had taken its toll.  BUT a cold boot reset that or wiped all the bad habits.

MY ADVICE.  CALL ALLISON.  We have a wealth of information here. BUT, when you are on the phone and tell them the history and your concerns….you’ll LEARN.  And they may say…..DEALER…but they are great…

Dometic NDA1402 (1202?) Freezer side not cold enough - Residential replacement questions?
rpasetto 14 hours ago

Finally got the replacement Samsung Rf18 in.  

 

Switch ID
davidkulman 13 hours ago

I tried this in electrical, no response... I  have  a switch located next to the door, switch cover is missing and I don't know what it controls.. been missing long time, light is on.. I  have 2004 HR Endeavor. Pic upside down sorry.  Can't find it in wiring diagram I have. Know of replacement. 

Dometic NDA1402 (1202?) Freezer side not cold enough - Residential replacement questions?
Patricia Ferrara 13 hours ago

On 8/23/2024 at 5:05 AM, MIRIAM said:

Thanks for the tip.  I definitely have that problem and, last week, when we first discovered the issue, the ice tray was completely'stuck' and iced over (couldn't get it out) against that back wall.  I took a hair dryer for a while to thaw the ice along the back wall and over to the right where air comes out with fins/vent, but I'm guessing I didn't thaw it all (couldn't see behind that side wall)  it was a lot of ice.... A LOT....so, this time, I'm letting ut sit for 2-3 days and will do a hard reset/reboot when I start it up on Tuesday.  Praying that does the trick.....I'll do the sealing, remove the ice machine and start thawing daily going forward.  I pray this buys me a couple years before I'm ready for residential upgrade.  I've just gotta find one reasonably priced and less than $2K to install - that's just ridiculous.

Thanks - I'm going to shop around and it's on the shortlist for the next couple years.  I thought about using the ice machine (putting bought ice in) the same way and just decided to buy a countertop ice machine for as little as we use anyway.  I only use a little bit each day in summer because I prefer my water chilled or room temperature, not cold.  So far, this seems to do the trick and we are in August, so won't get hotter than this 🤣🤣

Hi! Sorry that I didn’t see your previous messages & questions. Were you able to get your ice maker and auger/dispenser removed? Great idea with the countertop ice maker! As far as defrost cycle goes: I’ve been checking the fins for ice or frost buildup - lately it’s not been an issue, so perhaps it’s back on schedule. It HAS been extremely hot here in Texas, and even with the thermostat set at 5, it’s been having a difficult time cooling (mostly the refrigerator side). Using an awning to keep the sun off that side makes a HUGE difference! I’ll check my notifications more often to see if you have any more questions.

Switch ID
jacwjames 13 hours ago

I have a different set of light switches but mine control

ceiling light, outside light above door and door handle lights, step switch.

and battery cut off, and step well lights. 

Process of elimination, just keep looking and you'll figure it out.  If you have a wiring diagram it might give you the info.

Switch ID
Tom Cherry 13 hours ago

ASK....and ye MIGHT RECEIVE.

I often take your request as a CHALLENGE.  I found several 2004 Endeavors FOR SALE.  After scanning the ads....maybe on the fourth ONE....that one had 137 IMAGES....

Here is it....

CEILING LIGHT

PORCH LIGHT

ENTRY STEP SWITCH.  

BATTERY CUTOFF.

That switch is a CARLING.  You can GET a NEW actuator for it.  ODDS ARE...the SWITCH IS ALL RIGHT.  On Amazon, there is a TOOL for carefully removing the cover.  Yours is GONE.

Toilet issue
grizzly 12 hours ago

Have my Tecma toilet with 2 buttons and the red light comes on when full. Tank was emptied and flushed but red light still on and I can't flush it. Any solutions or work arounds?

Toilet issue
Dr4Film 12 hours ago

Bad sensor somewhere. Most likely on the tank. Possibly jumper the sensor once you find the faulty one.

Switch ID
davidkulman 12 hours ago

Thank you, Tom.....

Switch ID
Chargerman 11 hours ago

Tom

   You always go the extra mile to help, guide and support anyone in need.

 

   Thanks for all that you do!

Steve

Help identifying my exhaust brake on a Catapilar C7 350
Cajunboy1959 11 hours ago

Hi Dr4film,

Thanks for your reply. I found the exhaust brake module. How do I lubricate it? I think it is frozen because nothing moves when the exhaust switch is on and the engine running. How can i tell if it is operating properly? 

Toilet issue
Rikadoo 11 hours ago

OMG🤦‍♂️ im always telling people electronics will fail at the most inopertune time but takes it to a new level🙀💩😳 dont mean to be laughing at a issue like that , but i had no idea you could be locked out from a toilet, so like is there an overide with that system???

Help identifying my exhaust brake on a Catapilar C7 350
Dr4Film 11 hours ago

It will not be active until you are above 15 mph. It shuts off at 15 mph.

The best way is to add a toggle switch to the relay that activates the cylinder. Then you can close and open the valve at will.

Look up the manual for the PacBrake Exhaust Brake to see exactly where all of the lubrication points are located.

Then use a good lubricant, either the one suggested by PacBrake or Tri-Flow is also an approved lubricant.

Allison Transmission Fluid Check Protocol
Frank McElroy 11 hours ago

On 9/24/2024 at 4:12 PM, Croom352 said:

Well on this stop I got a weird code other than the normal oL ok. It read oL H13. Looked in the Allison manual and did not find anything.

Does anyone have any ideas? Have not checked the dipstick yet.

Thanks,

This means that the oil level is too high (HI) by 3 qts.  It's overfilled - you'll need to remove 3 quarts of oil.

Toilet issue
Dr4Film 11 hours ago

Obviously, the Tecma Toilet was engineered by someone who doesn't own an RV and probably has never even been inside of one.

Capps 2 fuel leak
Tom Wallis 11 hours ago

On 8/17/2022 at 10:54 AM, JDCrow said:

Update:

After pouring over posts, it seems the distributor can go bad, and fuel will come out the weep holes. I found a new distributor just happened to be in Oregon.

After going through posts on the big RV site, I’m going to rebuild the stator on the ICV and the suppressor as preventative measures while I have it apart. 

JD, did the new distributor solve your problem? I think I have the same problem. As near as I can tell I have fuel seeping out of a weep hole or two. Where did you find the distributor and is there anything tricky about replacing it?

Toilet issue
Frank McElroy 11 hours ago

35 minutes ago, Rikadoo said:

OMG🤦‍♂️ im always telling people electronics will fail at the most inopertune time but takes it to a new level🙀💩😳 dont mean to be laughing at a issue like that , but i had no idea you could be locked out from a toilet, so like is there an overide with that system???

Look at the side of your black tank and remove the wire on the high sensor.  But, be absolutely sure the black tank isn't full.  If it is full you could pump black water out your roof vent...

Toilet issue
grizzly 10 hours ago

16 minutes ago, Frank McElroy said:

Look at the side of your black tank and remove the wire on the high sensor.  But, be absolutely sure the black tank isn't full.  If it is full you could pump black water out your roof vent...

There are 2 sensors on top black tank and each has 2 wires, one brown and one black. Have disconnected all of them and red light still on

Toilet issue
Frank McElroy 10 hours ago

I was afraid that might happen.  The electronics have a fail safe that if a sensor isn't reading if defaults to a full tank.  Is it easy to peel the sensor off the tank wall?  

Have you already tried flushing the tank?

Toilet issue
grizzly 10 hours ago

Do those sensors just mount to the outside of the tank or do they go into it internally?

1 minute ago, Frank McElroy said:

I was afraid that might happen.  The electronics have a fail safe that if a sensor isn't reading if defaults to a full tank.  Is it easy to peel the sensor off the tank wall?  

Have you already tried flushing the tank?

Yes I have several times. I saw how to by pass it to get it to flush. I guess the next thing is to take the señor off then tank

Toilet issue
Frank McElroy 10 hours ago

OK, have you tried this - press and hold the flush more than ten seconds.  This should bypass and override the red light.

To bypass the sensor insert a 620 ohm resistor instead of the sensor.

Capps 2 fuel leak
JDCrow 10 hours ago

Yes, cleared it right up.

I found it on eBay. It was sitting on a shelf at a diesel repair shop about 120 miles away. 
 

The hiccups are access, and sensors. 
 

All the injector lines need to be removed in order to have the clearest access with the most room. 
 

Also, on the  accumulator, there are sensors and the pressure sensor cannot be reused, there is an updated one that can be reused if it ever needs to be taken out again, I think I have a post on here about the sensor.

Toilet issue
Frank McElroy 8 hours ago

1 hour ago, grizzly said:

Do those sensors just mount to the outside of the tank or do they go into it internally?

Yes I have several times. I saw how to by pass it to get it to flush. I guess the next thing is to take the señor off then tank

Yes, they just paste to the side of the tank 

basement compartments supports breaking loose from frame
Robert92867 7 hours ago

Funny you should mention that you have a broken piece of thinwall tubing...

At 81,000 miles I noticed a piece of tubing hanging down and searched the entire framework of thinwall tubing and z metal. I found a dozen cracks in the thinwall tubing and/or z-metal and started fabricating braces and welding...  I had to cut out plastic behind the 12v water pump to gain access to patch a vertical brace, I had to pull fender inner liners to access others.  The boxed area above the rear axle was the worst to access, first I used 1/4" x 3" x 10" plates to reinforce the many cracked pieces. That "fix" only lasted 2 years then I ended up using 14' of 3" x 1/4" plate to box in the entire area above the rear axle.  That did the trick, and has not further cracked in 60,000 miles I have put on since then.  In 2015 one of my radiator shroud support rods broke loose (another bad factory weld).  The loss of the support rod caused severe radiator vibration and that cost me 2 radiators before I figured out the problem.  Just this last year I noticed the fiberglass corners below the radiator access doors was cracking, so I did more bracing/welding/bolting to support that area.  That required removing the radiator. Every year now, I put the RV up on jacks and pressure wash everything and inspect everything. I attached a few files, there are many more I could attach, but you get the idea.

Capps 2 fuel leak
Tom Wallis 6 hours ago

Thanks JD. Let the adventures begin. BTW, I have a side radiator and I don't think it's going to make things much easier.

Capps 2 fuel leak
JDCrow 6 hours ago

36 minutes ago, Tom Wallis said:

Thanks JD. Let the adventures begin. BTW, I have a side radiator and I don't think it's going to make things much easier.

Yeah, still a booger job as it’s from the top. Mine was in the closet. It will be easier to get the front cover to get it timed before tearing into pump. 

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