Monacoers Daily News
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Here's what the Monacoers have been talking about:
Index
Discussions
Tom Cherry
9 hours ago, Benjamin said:The tray was probably sized for four 6V batteries, golf cart type, nearly any size will fit. ONE 12v would work depending on how you want to be able to use it. A racetrack typically has generators running all the time, so one marine cranking battery (semi deep cycle...) would work to run the lights and fridge for a few hours between running the generator for cooking. If you do a few weekends a year, with the generator going most of the day, one marine battery will last fine. If you go with two, I'd get two 6v golf cart type and hook up in series. If you want to go longer without the generator, four 6v. OR at some point you have to consider Li, one huge advantage is the charging rate, you can charge Li faster than lead acid, and they don't care about being cycled between 20-80% capacity for many thousands of cycles. The many thousands of cycles won't matter to most RV's, but being happy left drained for a few days and charging fast when you start the generator is valuable for RV use.
Not PROBABLY…but was. Check the sales brochure…
OK….here is the real world. Read the brochure. Your rig, which you have classified as a “Large Slide” in past posts originally left with FIVE GEL Batteries. Maybe another member or the prints or your manual will show the layout. Unfortunately, the more we learn about your rig, then, the more we know that someone really “altered it without any knowledge of the consequences”.
At a minumim….you need four STRONG and dependable Trojan T-105 batteries. You need to crank the Genny and also install a “Blue Seas” battery selector switch. This is a $40 300 or maybe 400 A switch. I’d hook it up so I could use BOTH BANKS for the Super Slide. That will power it sufficiently. After the slides are in or out…you turn OFF the switch. They call it the TWO BATTERY switch. You just use the OFF or BOTH positions. I THINK it is s higher amp than the regular but the 300A ON/OFF would work. Many of us store our rigs with the banks jumpered and charge both. This would also be a benefit if you have power at storage.
You may even have dual Inverters. Read your manual and use the prints. Find out what you have. The larger slide will be a challenge…but my own personal opinion, based on battery knowledge and research….4 flooded and having the “chassis boost” will give you way more volts…as in the voltage will not drop. You do not want a voltage drop for that slide system. By using an auxiliary “jumper switch”, you have that. I had a hydraulic slide issue. Had or have a high resistance connection….so I instslled the switch. I run my hydraulic slide off the chassis. There is a 20% increase in “speed” or where they should be. I CAN use both. I think I know where the issue is and will fix that. But for all practical purposes….it is fixed,
I wouldn’t waste money on GEL’s. I double up on the batteries as in use BOTH. Flipping the switch takes a minute….and the hydraulic motor will be operating at the correct voltage. You do NOT want to run it at a reduced voltage. The AMPS will skyrocket and overheat it. On shore….you have the inverter(s) charging. But when no shore…have the Genny on. SO both banks….with being recharged….you are good to go. Take that to the bank…
New File - Door Bushing Replacement & Latch Adjustment
Dr4Film
I have to get inside my entry door this winter while back in Florida as the outside handle is at the end of its travel to open the latches. I've been using the outside handle PLUS pushing on the door to get it to open. I also have left the drivers window unlocked just in case!
Tom Cherry
10 hours ago, amphi_sc said:When my Tecma Silence tank sensors act up I give the black tank an enema using a modified Camco tornado flush
Value of 2007 signature loaded monaco
Paul J AOn 9/27/2024 at 9:53 PM, cowpoke said:can anyone help me with a quote of value
on my 2007 signature loaded Monaco
Please contact me for input. ackermanenter@aol.com . I also sent you a message from this site.
Dash Heat and Dash Air Conditioning Not Working
GringoScotDandick66, I had a hard lesson HVAC experience this summer during my trip from San Antonio to Illinois.
I routinely have had to "top off" my dash A/C system each year before trips and I have become "accustom" to this activity.
The day before my most recent journey I was topping off the system and nearly at the middle of the low pressure gauge "green" indicator........then the dial dropped like an anchor to the low level.
After purchasing some Igloo coolers, a ton of ice at each stop, I swore off the "Redneck" A/C cooler thingy.
Baffled I began my studies in A/C 101 and hope to share some of my "lessons learned" with the forum.
Cat Stephen posted my resolution.
I rented some gauges and a vac pump from Autozone and began researching how to use these items online and watching videos on Youtube.
I found that while the gauges can give you general "breadcrumbs" that the old school methodology worked best for my situation.
I had ambient air blowing out of my dash vents under a MAX A/C setting. A "turkey probe" thermometer verified that I was blowing hot ambient air.
I tested the dash heat and found that after reaching running temperature (165F) that I had the same hot ambient air, but no heat.
$65.00 worth of ice and 1,200 miles later (and French vocabulary under my breath) I began my investigation.
I found that using the old school method of touch and feel for temperature was my best tool.
The inlet and outlet lines of the receiver drier should feel warm with no noticeable temperature difference.
Not the case with my receiver dryer and I could not make out anything from the top mounted site glass (but this was more reliable with R12 systems and not so with R134a systems).
So, I started at this point.
I vacuumed the system down for about 4 hours and then opened the line at the outlet of the receiver dryer.
To my dismay, the two check valves were plugged with the desiccant material and the receiver dryer sounded like a Mexican maraca when I shook it.
I had a hard time trying to decipher the faded part number of the Parker receiver dryer and could not find any with a 18mm/12mm ports.
So I decided to go the 18mm/18mm route and eliminate one of the two check valves.
Once the new receiver drier was installed, condenser cleaned with foam and a comb, I checked every fitting that I could and vacuumed down the system holding at 30" of vacuum for a minimum of 45 minutes.
Next I added the correct percentage of PAG oil based on total refrigerant charge, some first charge with dye, and the balance refrigerant with the manifold gauges.
After about 1 can of refrigerant, the condenser fan started and remained powered on. 4.8 ounces of refrigerant later, my dash A/C was blowing at 58 degrees F on a 95 degree day. (The seas parted, there was light, sounds of harps, etc.)
For two days, I started the coach and tested the MAX A/C recording dash temps at 58-60F in 95+ temp days.
Next on to the dash heat issue.
I think Tom Cherry or another uploaded the Newmar Evans Tempcon training manual and this was a nice guide with so much information and detail.
So, with this knowledge in hand and back to the old school, I felt the temperature of the entry and exit hoses of the water valve mounted above the generator.
Hot inlet line and a mild outlet line. (Houston, we have a problem.)
I checked the electrical connector and the lines and discovered that all was correct but the water valve was not opening.
Well, if you have a rubber mallet, you have a working water valve….as they say.
After a couple of taps, the valve actuated, and I now have dash heat.
I believe just making summer travel trips and spending most of the year in South Texas, the valve does not get any exercise.
I hooked up my manifold gauges the morning of my departure from the mid-west to South Texas and the low and high readings were spot on for the ambient temperature and humidity.
The drive back was pleasant with the dash air holding steady at 58-60 degrees F.
Once we were in southern Oklahoma, the temperature outside was cresting 98 degrees, but the dash A/C maintained.
So, back in San Antonio, there are two “redneck” cooler A/Cs scattered with a substantial amount of buckshot, and 50 cal. holes back in the woods.
My weekly startups with MAX A/C are confirming 58-60 degrees from the dash air.
Tecma Toilet issue - 2007 Signature
Tom MillerI recently had this issue and after repair was coupled it turned out to be debris caught in the macerating section of the toilet.
repairs were by Jeff Bleakly formerly of Integrity RV
WA, OR, CA trip
jacwjamesSo, I am getting ready to leave on my trip. Been monitoring the 10 day weather forecast for MT & WA, trying to make sure I'm through MT before any cold fronts hit. So far forecast looks good.
Planning to leave on Tuesday AM.
First question on routing, I've put in a route from E TN to Billings MT on both Mapquest and my Garmin 760. In both cases it takes me up to Sioux Falls SD to 90 then east. Seems counter intuitive. Plus I know that I90 is still a mess west of Sioux Falls.
I'm thing about going heading west on I80 in Nebraska, then north after Cheyenne. WY. Anyone have any thoughts on why this isn't a decent route, it is slightly longer.
2005 Dynasty 400 ISL “Engine” Brake issue
RVerBobThanks for all the help, disassemble foot pedal and manipulated micro switch maybe sitting and not used or dirt in switch.
Now when stepping on switch back light on brake switch lights up every time, have not road tested yet but good sign.
Thanks for the understanding of the circuits and operations. Am I the only one to find the print hard to follow ( installer ok troubleshoot a struggle for me)
Tecma Toilet issue - 2007 Signature
Bobbyboy16 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:Catching up. Great comments and such. Bottom line.
The sensors on a typical Monaco control panel or such are 12 VDC circuits. There are 4 sensors. One at Bottom is “NEG” or ground. The 1/3; 2/3 & full are the POS. Now it may be reversed…. Bottom line. When the liquid is BEOLW 1/3…..there is NO LIGHT. But when the liquid is above the 1/3 probe….NOTE, these probes are studs or cooper rods into the interior of the tank. So, the liquid, even the GRAY tank, is conductive. SO the 1/3 probe is in the liquid….and the bottom probe is in the liquid. The liquid makes the circuit. BINGO. 1/3 light is on…..repeat for 2/3 & FULL. This is a CONDUCTIVE circuit…. It you jumpered the bottom Probe and either of the TOP (not in the liquid)….you’d get a LIGHT.
THE REASON they are NOT accurate. This is a CHEAP system. The tank has an internal buildup of feces and bacteria and toilet paper. Think of it as a SLUDGE or SLIME that has coated the inside. So, when you have new or fresh liquid in the tank, this dried out sludge becomes conductive. Then the liquid wicks up the sludge. So, the ACTUAL liquid level is say at 1/4 height. But when you drive…..that liquid sloshes around. That resaturates the crud or buildup. That then makes a circuit from the 1/3 probe to the bottom one. BINGO….light is on. NOW….let it sit overnight or even for a day or two. YES, you continue to add liquid. BUT the tank crud will dry out. It takes agitation (like driving) to slosh it up and around. NOW….this is a COMMON problem in Municipalities. They buy special probes as well as a high voltage transformer. 600 VAC burns or arcs and destroys “floating objects” or wads of TP. THAT is how they really KNOW the level. If we had a HIGH VOLTAGE system….the “crap” or crud would burn off (in a circle) and stay clean. Our probes would only measure the PURE liquid.
FINALLY….hope this explains all the “tricks” and procedures that folks use or were mentioned here. You HAVE to have a fairly CLEAN interior area around where a sensor is located. With the Techma, the middle is expected to have a buildup. Good backflush and the use of a cleaner that has a surfactant (which coats or has “sheeting” additives ). THINK about your dishwasher. MOST have a “Rinse Aid” or a surfactant dispenser. So, the final rinse is dosed with the RINSE AGENT. That helps sheet off water and also helps eliminate water spotting. Let it run out or say…..NOT NEEDED….your dishes will have more water on them or spots. I had to sort of “teach” a bit of chemistry to my wife. We finally LOST our 25 YO high end GE. She complained about its cleaning and such. I filled the new Kitchen Aid’s rinse agent reservoir. NOW, the KA’s design and technology is a world ahead. The dishes sparkle. The SS flatware is SHINY…she emptied the drawer and glasses shelf and dishes and ran every.one,
THEN, I quizzed her. She had decided the Rinse Aid was just a gimmick and not used it in years…. OMG….that was ONE of the contributors to poor performance. She NOW has me check it.
SO…..THEORY. If you “doused” your black tank with a tablespoon of dishwasher Rinse Aid….when you mixed up your “chemicals”….you MIGHT find that the crap would NOT build up as much. There are formulas on the Internet for the GEOMETHOD. They use detergents and waster softeners. The “theory” is that if you can attack or breakdown the crud on the side….then the liquid will NOT WICK up.
NOW…if the comment that the HIGH Sensor on the TECMA is in a section of the tank where there is NO backflushing or the buildup is severe….move it.
As to the SeeLevel. The sensor that they use is a LONG PCB. You order it for the height of your tank. It provides a variable “capacitance” signal. When the tanks gets dirty….you can recalibrate….but, there is only so much or thickness of crud or buildup it can tolerate or handle. Many, and we have had a bunch, will post…”IT DON’T WORK”. SeeLevel says. CLEAN and RECLEAN per instructions. Once stable and the adjustment or calibration is within the normal range…..use…but you MUST periodically clean the tanks…:
Tom: Good explanation of sensors to determine the levels in the Black Tank---but are those the same sensors that give the "red light" warning on the Tecma flush buttons?
or does the Tecma have its own different sensors? The conversation started with the Tecma sensors and how to bypass them then merged into the "capacity" sensor discussion. did I miss something along the way.
Bob L, 08 dynasty
Floor slide damage!
RVerBobI think your idea of the door kick plates is a great idea. I would like to follow the install and rivet size and where to drill.
Just starting to see signs of ware, will install for preventative measures.
Need part numbers for brakes on 2001 Holiday Rambler Ambassador, Roadmaster Chassis, DP
Art BrandriffDoes anyone have any information on ABS parts for 2001 HR 34' Ambassador?
Floor slide damage!
JDPennThanks. I searched on Craigslist and FB Marketplace looking for stainless steel plate and sheet.
46 minutes ago, RVerBob said:I think your idea of the door kick plates is a great idea. I would like to follow the install and rivet size and where to drill.
Just starting to see signs of ware, will install for preventative measures.
When I ran across these I jumped on it. I was concerned about how to cut them, but a metal cutting disc and drill did the job. I filed and buffed the leading edge down so it doesn't irritate the rubber seal. I'll silicon dry lube the rollers and slide plate after installing. I installed one plate today with Liquid Nails Max and #10 stainless screws. I have the plate jacked up slightly until the glue sets.
Tecma Toilet issue - 2007 Signature
birdshill123There are 2 RV proctologists at Q every year. Expensive but apparently they clean the tank until it is like new.
Coach insurance while in CENTRAL AMERICA???
Paul J AOn 9/28/2024 at 11:51 AM, Rocketman3 said:Both times we have gone to Baja we used. GNP Seguros.
We did all the signup on-line and PRINTED the documents before leaving the USA. They had a good easy process. I.e. took our money very well. We never had an accident- so I can’t speak to that part of their service.
Because our home (we full-time) was then not insured (Liability only) I drove very carefully! One thing that surprised me was how well the Mexico drivers drove. They were nice and patient.
The city streets were good - except for all the topes (speed bumps). No one follows speed limits - so they make them physical (speed bumps). The highways were a mixed lot. But much more narrow - and no shoulder. We took our rig all the way down to Cabo San Lucas (stayed at a condo with relatives).
Good Luck
(No idea how the mainland will vary vs Baja).
Thank you Michael.
Tecma Toilet issue - 2007 Signature
Frank McElroy2 hours ago, Bobbyboy said:Tom: Good explanation of sensors to determine the levels in the Black Tank---but are those the same sensors that give the "red light" warning on the Tecma flush buttons?
or does the Tecma have its own different sensors? The conversation started with the Tecma sensors and how to bypass them then merged into the "capacity" sensor discussion. did I miss something along the way.
Bob L, 08 dynasty
Tecma has its own two sensors that stick onto the side of the tank.
Help creating an effective search query.
Robert92867Search queries are not my strong point. What text would you recommend to find previous posts by members trying to replace a broken windshield wiper drive arm? See photos below for more specifics..
Help creating an effective search query.
DavidLJust google search for Monaco and the part number.
I found a bunch of wiper motors for you to compare to yours
One
Replacement Hydraulic Fan Motor
Superpro14Does anyone know if your lucky enough to find a replacement Hydraulic Fan Motor that works in conjunction with a Wax Valve , does it come with the steel speed control valve or do you need to purchase the Speed control Valve by it self and if so does anyone have a name or manufacture and possibly a part number. I know there are a few members have replaced the motors which are no easy to find, has anyone spoke to Whitehouse on the phone or is it best by e-mail with pics, the speed control valve appears to be a spool type valve. the number on the motor is SNM2/22 C106 RXH1/8H but I can't find a name or number on the steel valve. James sent me part number for 2002 which looks the same and it shows the Motor and Valve as one part number I believe, and help is greatly appreciated, thanks
Help creating an effective search query.
Tom CherryFor our site.
wiper knight. Or wiper motor knight…. Or various other words. Click on everywhere….topics.
download the parts list….look there.
Call AM. Was NOT aware the AM has pulled a “Lippert”….swallowing up small companies. They DID have some items or different products on their website that they never made.
Call AM. NEVER depend on their website. BUTCH used to be parts guy. Call them and get into parts. They had a list of every Monaco wiper assembly they ever made by model and year. If they made the original, then odds are….they have s replacement.
Diesel was a major competitor and well versed. AM only had their own parts knowledge. Diesel knew about all brands….
There is a “guy” that is running a company. He seems to know his stuff.
Wiper technology rv parts….this guy was with Diesel….or so was told.
Integrity RV parts is also a frequent name.
My internet access is limited as the things in NC, even in central, seem to be impacted.
Do a google search for the two above…
Tecma Toilet issue - 2007 Signature
Tom CherryFrank is correct. YES….it MORPHED. Suggested that one could use SeeLevel sensors. These are LONG printed circuit boards….capacitance measurement….not compatible with TECMA.
Tecma has, print was posted way earlier, TWO sensors that are specifically designed (Inductive) and MUST be used to make their controls work. Frank posted a resistor value to “fake out” or make the Tecma say…ALL IS WELL. DANGER..if the tank is full….big problems….read the posts.
THEN…it morphed into, well Tecma might be working….but the idiot lights are still off. The IDIOT Lights are powered by probes that are bolted and sealed to the sidewall of the tank. They make an electrical circuit. Not connected nor integrated or anyhow REMOTELY connected to the OP’s Tecma.
Right now….this is a “Black Tank Maintenance and Sensor Information - 101”. Too many have too little knowledge of the issues (crap on interior walls of black tank) and how SeeLevel is totally different from the Probe style or OEM Monaco….
Tecma is a “standalone” system and has to have its OWN level or alarm “stick on outside” sensors….that read in OHMS via an inductive method….not Capacitance.
If Pop Quiz is given, most likely heavily graded on the curve. BUT…the issue of Black Tanks and measurement snd such are all interrelated…
Replacement Hydraulic Fan Motor
jacwjamesI think you should call Whitehouse products to get in contact with a tech person, then email the parts page I sent you.
They numbering system is different. I started searched using different configurations but happen to stumble on to this. There is a fan motor with switch for a Beaver, not sure if it is the same or close to what you have but I'm sure they can help.
Floor slide damage!
Tom Cherry2 hours ago, JDPenn said:Thanks. I searched on Craigslist and FB Marketplace looking for stainless steel plate and sheet.
When I ran across these I jumped on it. I was concerned about how to cut them, but a metal cutting disc and drill did the job. I filed and buffed the leading edge down so it doesn't irritate the rubber seal. I'll silicon dry lube the rollers and slide plate after installing. I installed one plate today with Liquid Nails Max and #10 stainless screws. I have the plate jacked up slightly until the glue sets.
You will, i predict, damage the rollers with screws….unless you figured out how to flush mount…but then very little surface or binding. YES…one can make the plates.
But the original intent of the plates was to eliminate the water infiltration on the edge. Number one reason for extensive damage to floors. Folks have tried to fix the side walls. No success. The Guardian requires you grind off the vertical portion (I developed a PEELING trick) of the side or lower frame. The turned up edge will then cover that joint. It is SEALED like Noah never thought of.
Thus…the Guardian does two things, it 100% eliminates water infiltration….the most common and costly to repair
It also fixes or repairs superficial or deep damage to the thin underside Or underlayment….you do not have to replace rollers. You may be damaging yours….unless you remove the screws and replace with 3/16 SS pop rivets. There is a metric size slightly larger. If holes too big….epoxy fill them…drill holes for pop rivets.
The “paste” may prove to be ineffective. Loctite PL or 3M Marine adhesive (3200 or 5200….can’t remember which) is the only proven and tested…I used the PL….it works as well a the 3M…easier to clean up. BUT…the second two sets….the 3M was used.
In addition, if you did not put the T jacks BACK under the plates and jack up a little, you have a “iffy” joint. The Construction adhesives are NOT for laminating plates or such. Loctite and 3M said….keep the plates under compression…as in keep the weight of the slide pushing down on the plates. The curing is an mild expansion process. It will buckle or not properly laminate.
FWIW. The above has been posted numerous times so that folks will understand the whole concept.
Good Luck….
Dometic NDA1402 (1202?) Freezer side not cold enough - Residential replacement questions?
MIRIAMOn 9/25/2024 at 5:10 PM, Patricia Ferrara said:Hi! Sorry that I didn’t see your previous messages & questions. Were you able to get your ice maker and auger/dispenser removed? Great idea with the countertop ice maker! As far as defrost cycle goes: I’ve been checking the fins for ice or frost buildup - lately it’s not been an issue, so perhaps it’s back on schedule. It HAS been extremely hot here in Texas, and even with the thermostat set at 5, it’s been having a difficult time cooling (mostly the refrigerator side). Using an awning to keep the sun off that side makes a HUGE difference! I’ll check my notifications more often to see if you have any more questions.
Thanks for getting back. I was able to fix it by defrosting entirely and left it off for 24 hours. It's mostly user error in a hot area with humidity. We didn't have an issue until the other day and just did a quick defrost of the fins again and still working as expected. We will go residential eventually, but this is good for now.
Tecma Toilet issue - 2007 Signature
Bobbyboy2 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:Tecma has its own two sensors that stick onto the side of the tank.
Thanks Frank; my confusion is solved.
Bob L
Dometic NDA1402 (1202?) Freezer side not cold enough - Residential replacement questions?
96 EVO16 minutes ago, MIRIAM said:Thanks for getting back. I was able to fix it by defrosting entirely and left it off for 24 hours. It's mostly user error in a hot area with humidity. We didn't have an issue until the other day and just did a quick defrost of the fins again and still working as expected. We will go residential eventually, but this is good for now.
Did you look inside that little plastic cover to see if the two holes the wiring comes through were sealed well?
Gravity fill location & fill time help
MIRIAMNeed help locating my gravity full port. I've never used the fresh water tank and only been hooked to city water at parks for the year'ish we have been FT. I want to begin to use the fresh tank & water pump mainly to keep tank seals or other components from drying out. I opened the 'fill' valve and watched my Aladdin for the fresh water indicator to go up and it never did. It was (what seemed) about 2-3 minutes so maybe I didn't wait long enough or I am doing something wrong. There has to be water going somewhere when I open the 'fill', valve. I just don't know how long it should take. I pulled out my manual and it refers to gravity fill, but doesn't actually locate it. I have the manifold block and mapped that to my manual all looks correct and above (right) there is my fresh water dump open & close along with water pump. I tried all combinations and not sure if I didn't wait long enough, but I would rather ask than do something stupid. It does say in the manual, when it is done filling, it will just go out the overflow port, so makes me feel better knowing I won't flood anything if I leave it for a while. (Monitoring every couple minutes) I just want a general timeframe to expect and where I can put some bleach if I want/need to. (Don't know yet)
I have a 2006 Beaver Monterey with 100 gallon fresh water tank. Anyone have similar and able to help a girl out? ✌️🙏
Dometic NDA1402 (1202?) Freezer side not cold enough - Residential replacement questions?
MIRIAM23 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:Did you look inside that little plastic cover to see if the two holes the wiring comes through were sealed well?
I didn't, but I did have some weather caulking putty I used to seal around the whole piece. There was actually some dried (what looks to have been the same) that I took off, so maybe prior owner did that a while ago or prior repair person. I just removed that and put the weather caulking around as best I could. (Very awkward position for my hands)
that was a great suggestion and I already had the rope caulk that's moldable like putty. ✌️✌️
Gravity fill location & fill time help
hex_nutMiriam
I also have an '06 Monterey. There is NO gravity feed to the fresh water tank, I certainly wish there were. In order to fill the fresh water tank, you must hook pressurized water to the water inlet and then turn the fresh water fill valve (upper right on the Manibloc) open. Sadly, the fresh water fill is fairly slow since it is plumbed through the Manibloc which has small diameter tubing. In campgrounds it often takes me a half hour to fill that 100 gallon tank. Don't confuse the low-point drains which are on the bottom of the Manibloc with the fresh water fill which is on the top. Good luck. If this doesn't make sense, just ask and I will try to answer your questions. I don't know which Monterey you have, mine is the 36 foot Ventura. On mine, I can open the bay door just aft of the entry door and watch the fresh water tank fill up so I know how it is progressing.
Richard
p.s. If you are like me and forget to turn the fresh water fill valve back to it's closed position after the tank is full, you will find that the water pump will then suck air and you will not get any water and you will have to go back outside and close that valve. I have done that too many times over the years.
Gravity fill location & fill time help
jacwjamesI'm fortunate in that the bay door opposite the wet bay had a latch and is hinged so I can watch the tank fill up. Depending on the pressure/volume of water it can take ~10 minutes to fill the fresh water tank. My gravity fill is in the wet bay compartment at the top, a larger cap that unscrews and I can insert the end of a hose. It is very obvious.
Gravity fill location & fill time help
hex_nutMiriam
I did not ask, but just assumed that you still have the little red handle with the diamond shaped hole that turns the valves on the Manibloc. The valves are 90 degree ball valves that will turn 90 degrees in either direction on or off.
Richard
Floor slide damage!
JDPennThanks Tom.
I don't have corner plates, just the Schwintek rail that runs along the edge and is screwed in on the side and bottom.
My screw heads are 2 inches from the roller on each side, so no screw head contact. The rollers are 4 inches. The plate is 10 inches wide. There is no ramp inside the RV for the slide like some systems, just the rollers.
You're correct, there are other choices for adhesive. I picked this one for a couple reasons. It can be used on multiple surfaces including stainless, plastic, wood, etc,etc. And it remains pliable in extreme temperature conditions, so it won't put undo stress on the materials, but expand and contract with it.
And yes, I Jack up the plates with a T after installing to get pressure on them and a good glue set and cure.
Given the condition of the floor, I'm not sure of any other fixes or repairs without spending a fortune. For me, this solution is a start, we'll see how it holds up.
Help creating an effective search query.
Dr4FilmCall Rome trucks Parts in GA. They will help you locate exactly what you need. They carry thousands of wiper parts and components for our coaches.
Gravity fill location & fill time help
MIRIAM17 minutes ago, hex_nut said:Miriam
I also have an '06 Monterey. There is NO gravity feed to the fresh water tank, I certainly wish there were. In order to fill the fresh water tank, you must hook pressurized water to the water inlet and then turn the fresh water fill valve (upper right on the Manibloc) open. Sadly, the fresh water fill is fairly slow since it is plumbed through the Manibloc which has small diameter tubing. In campgrounds it often takes me a half hour to fill that 100 gallon tank. Don't confuse the low-point drains which are on the bottom of the Manibloc with the fresh water fill which is on the top. Good luck. If this doesn't make sense, just ask and I will try to answer your questions. I don't know which Monterey you have, mine is the 36 foot Ventura. On mine, I can open the bay door just aft of the entry door and watch the fresh water tank fill up so I know how it is progressing.
Richard
p.s. If you are like me and forget to turn the fresh water fill valve back to it's closed position after the tank is full, you will find that the water pump will then suck air and you will not get any water and you will have to go back outside and close that valve. I have done that too many times over the years.
OMG - I found my Monterey bestie twin 🤣🤣 I really need someone who has and knows this coach from time to time. I'm a try to do it first kinda girl, but I don't have pride stopping me from asking someone with experience, too. I'd rather ask than regret I didn't.
my bay door right after entry is my aqua hot, so it's not there....unless it's behind and I can't see, so I'll look again.
I have Aladdin system on my 40' Montclair IV to monitor progress and everything you said helps! I was just not waiting long enough with some people on Google saying '5 minutes' - 30 minutes does make sense and I'll try it again next weekend, unless I have time through the week to mess with it.
do you ever find fluctuations in water pressure for 'no reason' and takes a day or so to get back to 'normal'? I know it's not because of campers around me, but o don't know if I'm missing a step to properly 'pressurize' my system when I get to a new place or had to disconnect for a reason. Point in case.....water pressure was fine and I had to change my filter, so disconnected, flushed lines - blah blah - when hooked back up, less pressure and no 'reason' -- I messed a little here and there trying to figure it out and went back to normal. Then, today, Martin County FD came to the hydrant across the street to flush it - they did what they needed and after they left, pressure low again - like they 'took' all the pressure and it just needs to rebalance. I almost seem silly mentioning, but has to be that; it's the ONLY thing that happened and pressure was different after they left.
am I missing a step? Is there something I need to do when I get to a new spot or whatever to 'pressurize' when on city water? I would think the manual would say, but nothing.....
Floor slide damage!
Tom CherryUnless you have an oddball or different construction….and I don’t know about the LaPalma. There is a piece of aluminum angle on the lower side of the slide. That is joined to the sidewall. It is “marginally” sealed. It is the weak point. The seal or joint breaks. The sidewall is “memory” behind the vertical section of the angle. There is a flimsy plastic “gutter” or overhanging trim piece. Sort of like a counter flashing on a roofing system.
With the Talin plates, you peel off the vertical section and grind smooth the lower edge. The the turned up vertical edge of the Guardian Plate protrudes above where the angle stopped. You coat the vertical section on the back and put a bead on the top edge. You then fit and use a rubber mallot snd seat the Guardian plate. Flush to the sidewall. Then fit it under the outside edge. Once in position. You drill the holes (through the predrilled holes in the vertical plate) and pop the SS rivets in. It is now laminated to thr side wall and there is no way, as the bead spreads out, that you will have a leak down the sidewall and then under and into the floor. Then, you finish the pop rivets.
I would pull off any sidewall trim. I would use a piece of SS and put a strip over where the vertical angle extends and double seal that strip in place and then pop rivet.
This is where the most expensive damage occurs…..your rig….a KNOWN failure point. The average floor repair, by a shop is $10K. My way less than $1K Guardian plates fixed the underside and makes my slides totally water tight…at the normal failure point…
Differential issue Maybe?
4rickyg2005 Navigator series 60. 150,000 miles. I started to hear a pulsating whining sound when I step on the accelerator. Pulled over to see what was going on and heard a Thump Thump Thump like a rotating motion. Got to a safe place to crawl under and look at U-joints they look fine. At slow speed evaluation I heard some cracking and popping sound like from the differential or axles. No leaking SEALS or anything like that. Did not feel extremely hot.
Had it towed to ww Williams in Montgomery Alabama waiting in their parking lot now. Hopefully they will look at it first thing in the morning. When they pulled the axle oil came out smelled kind of burnt! I don't have a good feeling about this one..
Differential issue Maybe?
RodgerHope this turns out ok for you. As far as burnt smell, diff's always smell like burnt oily smell to me so hopefully that's not a indicator of something bad.
Differential issue Maybe?
AndyinMelbourneWere you able to rotate the driveshaft at all? Is there any play in the U-joints? I'd suspect the U-joints as well.
Differential issue Maybe?
jacwjamesWhen was the last time the chassis was lubed, did they/you do the driveshafts? When was the last time the oil level in the diff checked?
Gravity fill location & fill time help
Garry DonohueOn mine I had pressure problems and found a Screen in line going into the pump. Kinda like a screen on a water hose. It was screwed into the connection going into the water pump I’m assuming in order to keep debris from the camp ground or water tank from getting into the system. I replaced the little screen and never had problems again.
Differential issue Maybe?
4rickygHave not drained it yet. Drive shaft and Chassis has been lubed yearly. I don't think the diff fluid has ever been changed since I've owned it. Not very proud to say that..
Differential issue Maybe?
Ivan KBurnt is not a usual smell of differential oil IMO but it does smell funny, nasty really. If it is REALLY burnt, most likely a bearing failed. That by itself would not be a big deal if it did not yet weld itself and rotated the race inside the hub or on the spindle. Worst case pinion bearing but that one gets plenty of lubrication. They should know pretty quick. Jacking up and rotating the wheels would/should give a hint with the shaft or axle already removed. Joint is a possibility but would not burn oil. Broken gear or spider would not burn it either.
Differential issue Maybe?
4rickygAt highway speed it really didn't sound that bad just a hum. But at Slow speed idle just a roll sounded really terrible. Was more of a popping sound like something was getting stuck.
Dometic NDA1402 (1202?) Freezer side not cold enough - Residential replacement questions?
Viper04A 12 volt fan that is wired in place of the fridge light and placed on the fins really helped my NORCOLD until it caught fire and burned my Dynasty. Residential may be an expense but it was also piece of mind for us and our new Dynasty.
Gravity fill location & fill time help
hex_nutMiriam
I don't think there is anything that should cause fluctuations in water pressure. The only time that has happened to me is when my filter was plugged. What kind of water pressure regulator do you use? Those small non-adjustable regulators that screw on the hose are notorious for causing pressure fluctuations. My fresh water tank is in that first bay mounted just aft of the Hydro-Hot. Yours is obviously installed somewhere else. You might look for it to see if you have a visual view of the tank.
You might be interested in joining the Beaver Ambassador Club (BAC). They have a technical forum of all things Beaver. The only bad part is that the club is a sub chapter of FMCA and you must be a member of FMCA before you can join BAC. I really don't care much for FMCA, but I retain my membership just to have access to the BAC Forum.
Our Monterey is our 3rd diesel pusher and by far the best. I am trying my best to keep it functional as it approaches it's 20th birthday. Mine has a CAT C9-400 engine from 2004, was built in 2005 and registered as a 2006. So, it is coming right up on 20 years. Enjoy your Monterey.
Richard
08 Navigator door latch to hold screen door broke
MakaluOn my 08 Navigator the small black hook that the screen door grabs to on the main door broke. Now the door swings wildly on it's own and is rather annoying. Anyone know where to find the small black part shown in the picture? I also supplied a pic of the screen door handle it grabs to.
Regards
08 Navigator door latch to hold screen door broke
MakaluI'll add that it looks like this is the brand of screen door latch that's on my coach. It appears to be Atwood.
Differential issue Maybe?
Jdw12345Maybe a ABS sensor hitting the tone ring….
If you can be at the shop when they drain the lube, you can verify what you’re being told. Possibly even witness the drain plug being removed, unfortunately I don’t trust anyone to perform work on my coach.
The drain plug should have a magnet in it.
Dash Heat and Dash Air Conditioning Not Working
dandick66Thanks for the detailed post. This will certainly help me when the time comes to change my drier. I’ve been doing some reading too, and I’m curious how you knew you had to add oil. Some sites say you don’t need to add oil when you evacuate the system.
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