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Here's what the Monacoers have been talking about:
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Discussions
Agpopp
Sad for everyone involved. We stayed at Mama Gerties a few years ago go and went to Biltmore, Lake Lure and Chimney Rock, beautiful place to live. The images are unreal, worst floods I have ever seen.
Newcsn
16 hours ago, Steve P said:@Tom Cherry and others - I'm right there with you. Our troubles in NE Georgia due to Helene were almost insignificant compared to NC. Places we love and were planning to visit during October are wiped out, businesses washed away, and dear friends and acquaintances without power, water, food, or communications in staggering numbers. Catastrophic devastation barely begins to describe it. The feeling of helplessness is almost mind-numbing, but each of us can make a difference in the quality of life for those impacted. With the brain cells we have, we decided to use the God-given resources we have been blessed with to support Samaritan's Purse, and Send Relief (an arm of the North American Mission Board), both of whom are organizations with integrity and a proven track record. Furthermore, we set up a DAF (donor advised fund) about a year ago, and have been using that as the means of channeling contributions to those organizations. It's essentially a foundation set up thru Schwab in our case, but could equally have been thru Fidelity or other brokerage. Ours is the "No Other Name foundation" (a reference to Scripture that is obvious). You can set up your own DAF or, if you wish, contribute to ours or some other DAF, or open your own. It has the same tax benefit to the individual making the contribution regardless of which way you choose to do it. A chat with your financial advisor will help clarify the rules. There are also Qualified Charitable Distributions (QCD's) one can use to offset RMD's if you are of the age those are mandated. Using the most tax-advantaged mechanisms for giving is simply to make the funds we have go farther (to the charitable organization, rather than to the gubment).
Above all, pray for those who are struggling to survive an unprecedented and nightmarish weather event. As a former backpacking enthusiast, I have witnessed how debilitating dysentery can be. And without medical intervention, well, it can be life-threatening.
It's a privilege being part of this group and seeing our members not only care for their rigs, but more importantly, care for one another. You guys exhibit an eagerness toward generosity - both with knowledge & resources. It's also clear that our members place a high priority on doing things as efficiently & effectively as possible. Thank you for being these kind of people!
And, thank you @Steve P for pointing out a couple efficient/highly effective ways we can assist those impacted by the hurricane. If anyone is interested in finding out how efficient a relief agency is (what percentage of your donation actually gets to those in need) I'd encourage you to visit @Steve P has mentioned two very efficient & highly effective (and integrous) relief agencies:
LazyDays
Dr4Film
I have that emblem on the side of my 06 Dynasty so one of the previous owners must have belonged to the Crown Club.
Martinvz
I have been using the SoftCell water softener. I am very happy with it and it's performance. It can be purchased directly grom the business owner using the telephone number in the photos.
The unit comes with the optional sediment filter on the input side. The quick connects are my own addition. I also have a carbon filter installed in the wet bay and that is after the softener.
What I like is that I do not have to open the top to add salt during recharging. This is where the particulate filter is used. Remove the filter cartridge and fill the clear housing with salt, replace the housing and turn on the water. The salt dissolves and you are done once all the salt is dissolved.
The owner markets this unit at various RV shows, which is where I bought this unit.
I greatly appreciate the input. The square box looks like a solution.
Thanks
Fred Latch
RNMCBR
I agree with Harry,
I was a sceptic about the rear cross bars and watts links. I decided to try them out because I could fabricate them cheaply, and Craig French was urging me to do so and to be a West Coast early adopter. I’m glad I listened to him.
I did the TRW swap and rear cross bars first and saw a noticeable improvement. Then I did the front watts and saw more improvement. Finally I did the rear watts because Van Williams sent me most of the pieces. That too made a noticeable difference in handling.
I also bought and installed the Source anti-sway bars. I did not see a significant handling improvement from them. Maybe if I’d installed them first I would have noticed some but I doubt it would have made as much difference as the cross bars and watts. They may significantly reduce rocking when entering/exiting parking lots and such but I do not think they are a solution to the Monaco handling issues.
Since doing my coach I have made up kits for two other coaches and helped with installation and TRW swaps. Both owners were thrilled with the improvements in handling. I’ve also advised a number of others who bought kits from Monaco Watts. All of them were very happy with the results.
After many conversations with Van, Craig and Mike Hughes, and from my own experience I know these improvements work and the shorter wheelbase coaches benefit the most. Mike Hughs did an absolutely stellar job developing kits that are exceptionally well made and relatively easy to install.
Anyone who doubts their coach handling will be improved with these modifications need to drive a coach that has them.
Thanks again Harry for connecting me with Van and Craig!
Roy
cjmikek
Just wanted to share a recent problem with our passengerside slide I had. We had something recently fall behind the slide on the kitchen area while it was retracted. While extending it got caught in the arms and got stuck. We where able to retract teh and remove the item. But then had slide extending issues. The item getting stuck had caused the slide to get a little crooked. We manged to get it all back straight, but then the slide was creeping in, fiddled around with retracting and extending a few times and messing with slideposition and the issue seemed to be fixed. But then while getting ready for our next trip I notice the slide starting to creep again. The slide seemed to be very even in the RV so I was baffled. Read a few things and it got me wondering about what holds it in place when fully extended. Which lead me to checking fluid levels in the hydraulic system for the slides. Found the manaul for the HWH system and for mine it called for rear slides to be extended and fronts slides and generator slide retracted. Turns out the system was really low on hydraulic fluid. Got the reservoir topped off and cycled everything a few times. Since I have done that the slide is now staying extended without the creeping issue.
Turns out the item falling behind the slide and getting caught in mechanism just happened about the same time as the creeping issue and probably where not related at all.
diplomat don
When my shades broke I used the strapping with all the holes that plumbers use to hang pipes. Cut it to desired length, had some dark hammered paint around, and screwed into the plywood thru the upholstery. It goes over the end on the shade, holds tight and looks good. You can also get the same strapping with holes but plastic. If using that I would probably double up. I carry some of both with me as multiple uses in emergencies when on the road. Good luck, Don
Rich Cutler
I think I still have some Lazydays campground coupons. Wonder if they are still good? Next time in FL I should try them out. Doubt if I will ever visit Lazydays again though. Last time it cost me a trade of my 98' HR Endeavor for the one-year-old 06' Windsor. Good move though. Both dollar and equipment.
Mi Bill
Richard,
Thank you. Alex at WIPER TECHNOLOGIES told me something similar. However, he added that I should first heat the fittings before torquing it down.
Thanks
bill
zmotorsports
On 9/10/2024 at 7:12 PM, jillandjackie said:Zmotorsports - we had to take our aquahot out due to a freshwater leak & are now reinstalling it. our tank is empty as is our reservoir. needing to flush the system of old boiler fluid before we add new.
from where do you drain the rest of the boiler fluid? and i guess what i'm needing is a step by step process (or where i can find the info) on how & where to flush the lines and restart with fresh boiler fluid on a 100 series aquahot.
Sorry for the delayed response, been busy lately and just checked back in today.
I don't generally "flush" the systems unless there is a problem. Many times all they require is a drain and refill with fresh boiler fluid, even during a repair. However, on the few that I have worked on that had contaminated or severely neglected fluid, I open the drain from the bottom of the unit, then use a small amount of compressed air to help force the fluid from heat exchangers back to the boiler, but this is time consuming and difficult at times due to access and having to remove lines and/or circ. pumps.
As for a step by step process, I know of no such literature anywhere. Just what I've learned over the years.
zmotorsports
On 9/17/2024 at 10:01 AM, Pudgy Camper said:Awesome pics Mike! That looks like a great RV park. We have stayed at the Silverton Lakes Rv Resort in Silverton but might have to check this one out.
What route did you take to get to Ouray? Did you go up through Dolores, Telluride, Ridgway? I've been to Ouray from Silverton on the 550 (Million Dollar Hwy), but some of those corners are really tight going down into Ouray!
We come into Ouray from the North, through Montrose. We head south on Hwy 50 out of Grand Junction, then in Monrtose to Hwy 550 south into Ouray.
We've done the route from Durango to Silverton and then into Ouray on a couple of occasions during some hop, skip and jump trips, but the last dozen years or so we stay the whole week in Ouray and just go straight from home in northern Utah directly to Ouray. The road over from Durango into Silverton isn't too bad, but the road from Silverton to Ouray is not for the faint of heart, so I am less inclined to recommend it to people unless I know them or their driving style as the drop-offs freak some people out.
zmotorsports
I agree with others that in the first picture that flake is more than likely some paint lifting as it would be an odd place for a crack to propagate from.
It's always better to be safe than sorry so good on ya for keeping a close eye on things.
One thing I also do in the event I find a questionable area is use a dye penetrant to get clarification or confirmation whether there is an issue or not. That seems to be easy enough to use, even in tight quarters.
Paul J A
23 minutes ago, Mi Bill said:Richard,
Thank you. Alex at WIPER TECHNOLOGIES told me something similar. However, he added that I should first heat the fittings before torquing it down.
Thanks
bill
Some ppl have drilled a small hole thru the "assembly" of the wiper arm on the motor drive shaft for a small roll pin with success. AND lubricate the H**L out of the linkage regularly. Boeshield T 9. Great for battery trays and step linkage too.
Dr4Film
Attached is a document I had received from Roger Berke on how to drain and replace the boiler coolant in the Aqua-Hot model in the Windsor I previously owned.
RoadTripper2084
My 36' Dynasty is factory without any mods, but with the TRW steering with minimal slack. It handles well in good conditions. I'm almost always able to steer one handed. Passing semis are not a concern at all. However, I do need to keep my eye on the road, I've noticed that even looking away to grab my drink from the cup holder can lead to wandering.
Things change significantly when dealing with crosswinds of any magnitude. It's just physics, I am "sailing" a large solid mass down the road that catches a lot of wind. When I pass by a hill or some trees that block the wind, I need to adjust quickly for my previous steering compensation for the wind's impact, then be prepared to adjust again once I'm clear of the wind-blocking obstacle. Semis can have a similar effect in a strong crosswind. When things are bad enough I steer with the wheel raised almost flat and both arms extended straight out from my body, which seems to work well to make minor adjustments comfortably.
I've not convinced of the utility of adding devices like the Safe-T-Plus, just seems like it would add additional effort to steer the coach, adjust it, etc. Though I haven't tried one. The arguments for the front Watts make sense logically, though again, it's very difficult to assess objective data on actual improvements vs "optimistic perceptions", especially with many folks making multiple changes at once.
In any case, I'm pretty pleased with my handling as it is, might consider trying a front watts in the future if it's not too expensive or difficult to install. It would be nice to drive a similar rig as mine with it installed to assess.
Tom Cherry
FWIW... Diesel Equipment sold or was acquired by AM Equipment. NO DETAILS...
But, this site pops up. MAYBE (speculation) one of the individuals that was a "tech or guru" has joined or formed another company.
This may be a resource...
Roadmaster 8 airbag suspension H frame movement and resulting wandering
Tom Cherry
11 minutes ago, RoadTripper2084 said:My 36' Dynasty is factory without any mods, but with the TRW steering with minimal slack. It handles well in good conditions. I'm almost always able to steer one handed. Passing semis are not a concern at all. However, I do need to keep my eye on the road, I've noticed that even looking away to grab my drink from the cup holder can lead to wandering.
Things change significantly when dealing with crosswinds of any magnitude. It's just physics, I am "sailing" a large solid mass down the road that catches a lot of wind. When I pass by a hill or some trees that block the wind, I need to adjust quickly for my previous steering compensation for the wind's impact, then be prepared to adjust again once I'm clear of the wind-blocking obstacle. Semis can have a similar effect in a strong crosswind. When things are bad enough I steer with the wheel raised almost flat and both arms extended straight out from my body, which seems to work well to make minor adjustments comfortably.
I've not convinced of the utility of adding devices like the Safe-T-Plus, just seems like it would add additional effort to steer the coach, adjust it, etc. Though I haven't tried one. The arguments for the front Watts make sense logically, though again, it's very difficult to assess objective data on actual improvements vs "optimistic perceptions", especially with many folks making multiple changes at once.
In any case, I'm pretty pleased with my handling as it is, might consider trying a front watts in the future if it's not too expensive or difficult to install. It would be nice to drive a similar rig as mine with it installed to assess.
Based on all that I read, talked to the Ex GM of the Monaco Warranty Repair shop in Florida, other members, Barry of Josams.... The issue is...
TOUCHY POWER STEERING. This is a common issue. Newmar had a chassis that had an "adjustment" so you could trim or adjust the sensitivity of the steering.
Early on, maybe 15 years ago, the issue did NOT have all the technology of today. We are fortunate to have members like David and Van....they have been great theoretical and hands on designers and experimenter.
As it was originally explained....there was a Hydraulic system that was the coveted one. One man company. Folks often removed it from their MH and put it on new Monaco's. It DIED....as he passed away.
That was the GOLD or BENCHMARK standard. OK...next fix....a Steering Stabilizer. That restricts or dampens the movement. In the OLD DAYS, members would train other drivers to drive TWO HANDED. You had a STEER hand....on top or near the 1:00 or 11:00 position. Then the OTHER hand was maybe 3:00 or 9:00 or lower. You used this as a STEERING STABILIZER HAND. The top hand was steering....but the bottom hand was dampening the movement.
It takes about a day or maybe several trips to master that technique. THUS, you are physically compensating for the OVERLY SENSITIVE Monaco Hydraulic Power Steering. NOW... Wandering. Barry of Josam's has what he calls the UNIVERSAL FIX.
You have the front end aligned and the rear end checked...for those who don't know... there are many (I had one...and I can think of maybe a hundred posts that were impacted....over the years. The welder's got STICK HAPPY. They WARPED the brackets for the Rear Differential. Josams had induction heaters and a protocol for heating and quenching. That fixes it. Other less high tech shops...use a Welder.....and that overheats the fluid....so after that is done...you drain and replace the burned or spent fluid. This is an OLD TIME (decades) trick. It is based on experience and finesse and such. Josams is more refined....they know HOW HOT to heat the brackets and for how long....then quench.
OK....your MH is aligned. Barry says that 90% or MORE of the wandering THEN...is in the Tires. SIMPLE FIX. They swap the fronts side to side. That fixes it. BINGO.....that FIXED MINE. SO, for a year or so....NO WANDER....but STILL the MANUAL Hand Stabilization.
I added, as have many, the Blue Ox TruCenter. BINGO....drove much better. Folks and techs that drove it commented on how much better it handled (there was LESS SEE SAWING or cranking back and forth. Your slight distraction proves that.
NOW...the TruCenter is gone. Hendersons has a Stabilizer and they have a TRIM KIT. That is the BEST NEXT thing.
SOME learn to drive and use the Two Hand technique....which from the defensive driving schools that I have gone through....is the safest. I learned that in a High Performance Vette Class over several days. We learned HOW to drive like a PRO....and they emphasized TWO HANDS.....
That's the backdrop. That's what I recall and I have done a LOT of reading and talking and such...
RoadTripper2084
3 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:Based on all that I read, talked to the Ex GM of the Monaco Warranty Repair shop in Florida, other members, Barry of Josams.... The issue is...
TOUCHY POWER STEERING. This is a common issue. Newmar had a chassis that had an "adjustment" so you could trim or adjust the sensitivity of the steering.
Early on, maybe 15 years ago, the issue did NOT have all the technology of today. We are fortunate to have members like David and Van....they have been great theoretical and hands on designers and experimenter.
As it was originally explained....there was a Hydraulic system that was the coveted one. One man company. Folks often removed it from their MH and put it on new Monaco's. It DIED....as he passed away.
That was the GOLD or BENCHMARK standard. OK...next fix....a Steering Stabilizer. That restricts or dampens the movement. In the OLD DAYS, members would train other drivers to drive TWO HANDED. You had a STEER hand....on top or near the 1:00 or 11:00 position. Then the OTHER hand was maybe 3:00 or 9:00 or lower. You used this as a STEERING STABILIZER HAND. The top hand was steering....but the bottom hand was dampening the movement.
It takes about a day or maybe several trips to master that technique. THUS, you are physically compensating for the OVERLY SENSITIVE Monaco Hydraulic Power Steering. NOW... Wandering. Barry of Josam's has what he calls the UNIVERSAL FIX.
You have the front end aligned and the rear end checked...for those who don't know... there are many (I had one...and I can think of maybe a hundred posts that were impacted....over the years. The welder's got STICK HAPPY. They WARPED the brackets for the Rear Differential. Josams had induction heaters and a protocol for heating and quenching. That fixes it. Other less high tech shops...use a Welder.....and that overheats the fluid....so after that is done...you drain and replace the burned or spent fluid. This is an OLD TIME (decades) trick. It is based on experience and finesse and such. Josams is more refined....they know HOW HOT to heat the brackets and for how long....then quench.
OK....your MH is aligned. Barry says that 90% or MORE of the wandering THEN...is in the Tires. SIMPLE FIX. They swap the fronts side to side. That fixes it. BINGO.....that FIXED MINE. SO, for a year or so....NO WANDER....but STILL the MANUAL Hand Stabilization.
I added, as have many, the Blue Ox TruCenter. BINGO....drove much better. Folks and techs that drove it commented on how much better it handled (there was LESS SEE SAWING or cranking back and forth. Your slight distraction proves that.
NOW...the TruCenter is gone. Hendersons has a Stabilizer and they have a TRIM KIT. That is the BEST NEXT thing.
SOME learn to drive and use the Two Hand technique....which from the defensive driving schools that I have gone through....is the safest. I learned that in a High Performance Vette Class over several days. We learned HOW to drive like a PRO....and they emphasized TWO HANDS.....
That's the backdrop. That's what I recall and I have done a LOT of reading and talking and such...
My coach doesn't really "wander" per se, but yeah, the power steering is pretty sensitive. I wonder if introducing a bit *more* slack in the steering would improve things, mine is really snug.
I am more comfortable driving one handed in good conditions, but do revert to the two handed system you describe when conditions require it. I'm not driving a vette around a race track either. 😉
So the theory behind the steering stabilizer is to make it more difficult/more effort required to adjust the steering, in effect dampening the overzealous power steering? I'd like to try one, without purchasing or installing it myself first, ideally.
RoadTripper2084
Okay, this area is fixed. I didn't have time to remove the window or trim, but I was able to drill new holes in between the original ones and find solid wood behind them for new screws. Since there was no metal behind the wood in this area, I ended using some concrete screws suggested by someone on another forum.
These provide more aggressive / larger threads to hopefully hold the wood better/longer than the rather pathetic screws the factory used in this area.
I can see why in later model years they changed the design to have the belt-line align and end at the front edge of the driver's side window instead of trying to squeeze it in between the windshield and side window.
I was expecting to eventually have to redo/rivet my entire upper belt-lines, but after looking at the DS upper belt-line closely, I could only find a couple spots where it appeared to be "popping" via slight bulging of the trim strip over it. This was in the area right next to the DS upper corner where I was already working so I removed the trim a few more feet to inspect. To my surprise, the factory screws looked clean and solid. However, the aluminum belt-line itself (and the underlying fiberglass roof/wall segment) had a several bends in it between the screws that caused the visible bulging I was seeing.
So I'm not sure what caused those but went ahead and added new SS rivets between the existing screws, 7 of them starting at the front corner. Finally go to use my rivets and air rivet gun! 🙂
I also noticed that there is an existing hole above the belt-line in one spot where either the factory messed up, or maybe the belt-line was reworked at some point by a previous owner.
At 27 years of age, this coach has many stories lost to time I am sure.
tlhurlbut
Hi Fred. If you choose to go the square stock route, I could not find it using a goodle search or seaching metal companies. I had an old tv antenna that had 1" square thin wall tube. The wall thickness is about 1/32". If you have a metal recycler in your area, contact them and see if they have any old tv antenna material. It's the main tube that the ears attach to. I left my name at a local metal recycler and it took several weeks, but I finally got a call and they had an old tv antenna turned in. It cost me but when parts or the correct material is not available, price isn't an option,. As a result, I now have a 5'8" piece of 1" square thin wall tube for future repairs. The piece I used to make the repair was approximately 1" long, just enough to cover broken ear and extend past the mounting screw location. The metal spacer was used to make sure the mounting screw aligned correctly for mounting. The thin wall is necessary so it can be expanded slightly to fit around the old shade mounting tab. Carefree should have made the mounting tab much thicker. Good luck with the hunt for 1" square 1/32" thin wall aluminum tube. If you can't find the square stock, PM me and we can work out something.
Tom Cherry
20 minutes ago, RoadTripper2084 said:My coach doesn't really "wander" per se, but yeah, the power steering is pretty sensitive. I wonder if introducing a bit *more* slack in the steering would improve things, mine is really snug.
I am more comfortable driving one handed in good conditions, but do revert to the two handed system you describe when conditions require it. I'm not driving a vette around a race track either. 😉
So the theory behind the steering stabilizer is to make it more difficult/more effort required to adjust the steering, in effect dampening the overzealous power steering? I'd like to try one, without purchasing or installing it myself first, ideally.
Dampening or making the steering less "powerful" has been the goal of any stabilizer. The Hydraulic one was the best...but GONE.
There are shops that will or are qualified to install the Hendersons' hardware. Based on what I know...personally...and have researched and read.... This is the ONLY ADJUSTABLE one out there.
The EX GM of the Wildwood FL Monaco Warranty and Repair site was well versed in the chassis. He talked to me at length as well as Barry at Josams. They said... ADJUSTABLE. But Barry's guys were NOT electricians. So, I installed the electronics and pigtail.... Josam's was GONNA install, but the parts were late. I made a long trip to FL in 2010 and had the Camelot aligned and Barry fixed the TIRE PULL WANDERING. He KNOWS his STUFF...and I can call and get info as needed.
So, I then had a shop install. LUCKED OUT...BIG TIME. One of the lead techs from Lazy Days moved to NC and my buddy, the GM of a HR dealership, hired him...QUICKLY. He was trained by the Chassis Guru from Blue OX, who just happened to the CHIEF Field Rep for BRAND X. He helped them develop the TruCenter and UNDERSTOOD stabilizers.
SO, mine was put on by a pro....it was evident from day one. The steering was LESS touchy. YES, one could still drive with almost one finger....but the "SEE SAWING" was NOT needed. I still use the method....out of habit and from the Defensive Driving School. That impacted me and I do it on ALL vehicles...
BUT, the TruCenter made the world of difference.
CASE IN POINT. I drove later in 2011 in North Dakota. I had the TruCenter on. EVEN with it... If you put a piece of RED tape or a stripe on the Steering wheel center (like the NASCAR Drivers use).....I had to oversteer about 3 to 4" or offcenter to compensate. BUT on normal Interstate with NO cross winds....the tape is centered.
Unless you MARK and experiment and try...you do NOT realize the impact of even minor things. And Newmar's investment and advertising "Steer Sensitivity" adjustment on their upper ends....just reinforced that.
That's MY LAYMAN's take....
vanwill52
Your coach wanders because the suspension system supporting both front and rear axles allows the axles to "wallow" around under the coach. When they wallow, they change the direction the wheels are pointing. You CANNOT fix this problem with ANY type of steering add-on device. Fix the REAL problem, and nothing else need be done.
Bobkat11208
16 hours ago, Chargerman said:I’m in the same boat as Jeff. My coach is 40’ with tag. TRW box is tight and I recently replaced a failed Tru-Center with the Safe-T-Plus. I am planning on new shocks prior to next season and have also been talkIng to Mike Hughes about the Watts link for the front. My coach doesn’t handle terrible currently and I can put a lot of hours behind the wheel when needed but I definitely can feel when trucks pass me from behind and I definitely have to pay attention and unless it’s dead calm on real good roads I am always correcting. I was really hoping for a good improvement with the shocks and Watts but you guys got me wondering.
I recently reached out to Bilstein to see if they have any other shocked options with the same physical characteristics as the 24-187312. I will post their response if indeed I hear back from them
Has anyone tried Air Tabs Roadmaster 8 airbag suspension H frame movement and resulting wandering
RoadTripper2084
14 minutes ago, vanwill52 said:Your coach wanders because the suspension system supporting both front and rear axles allows the axles to "wallow" around under the coach. When they wallow, they change the direction the wheels are pointing. You CANNOT fix this problem with ANY type of steering add-on device. Fix the REAL problem, and nothing else need be done.
Am I correct to assume that the fix you are referring to are the front/rear Watts kit?
JDCrow
Having followed along reading thoughts, I’ll throw mine in, as it’s a different perspective.
My coach is short, 34’. I have installed just about everything mentioned above. Only thing I have not installed is the Source Rear sway bar. I have one, but not into drilling the frame at this point.
Because of my length, I’ve always felt the coach doesn’t contact the road correctly, and thus feels light. It’s almost like I’m in a drag race, front end off the ground, and the coach goes where it wants and I’m just trying to keep it between the lines as it flies down the hwy.
It is most definitely worse when coasting, better when the Jake is on or when under power .
At any rate, I ran across this article from HENDERSON’s and applied the ratio base on my axle weights and I’m about 700lbs light in the front.
I’m in the process of how to get it. In drag race days, racers would melt lead into valve covers and bolt on where needed. That’s one avenue. I leaning toward tractor suitcase weights bolted on a rail of some sort fabbed up.
Welding is out of my wheelhouse currently, so will have to source it out. It’s going to be a winter project I think.
Roadmaster 8 airbag suspension H frame movement and resulting wandering
vanwill52
10 minutes ago, RoadTripper2084 said:Am I correct to assume that the fix you are referring to are the front/rear Watts kit?
Correct. There are possibly other methods to stabilize the H-frames, but the Watts link is tried and proven in hundreds of installations.
Steering stabilizers, shock absorbers, anti-roll bars, alignment, "snake oil" ACTIVE steering devices are all bunk. I'm not trying to be disparaging in any way, but when an owner spends several hundred (thousand?) dollars on one of these devices, what are the chances he is going to say, "I was foolish. This hardly helped at all."?
Fred L
Thanks for all the info. I’ve got a couple days to kick around the process.
I’m still trying to figure out why the cruise light won’t come on. I’ll assume it’s not getting power. Everything works on the Smart Wheel except the cruise. Just starting to look at the control module.
Still, I appreciate your feedback.
thanks
Fred Latch
RoadTripper2084
1 hour ago, JDCrow said:Having followed along reading thoughts, I’ll throw mine in, as it’s a different perspective.
My coach is short, 34’. I have installed just about everything mentioned above. Only thing I have not installed is the Source Rear sway bar. I have one, but not into drilling the frame at this point.
Because of my length, I’ve always felt the coach doesn’t contact the road correctly, and thus feels light. It’s almost like I’m in a drag race, front end off the ground, and the coach goes where it wants and I’m just trying to keep it between the lines as it flies down the hwy.
It is most definitely worse when coasting, better when the Jake is on or when under power .
At any rate, I ran across this article from HENDERSON’s and applied the ratio base on my axle weights and I’m about 700lbs light in the front.
I’m in the process of how to get it. In drag race days, racers would melt lead into valve covers and bolt on where needed. That’s one avenue. I leaning toward tractor suitcase weights bolted on a rail of some sort fabbed up.
Welding is out of my wheelhouse currently, so will have to source it out. It’s going to be a winter project I think.
Roadmaster 8 airbag suspension H frame movement and resulting wandering
96 EVO2 hours ago, JDCrow said:
I’m in the process of how to get it. In drag race days, racers would melt lead into valve covers and bolt on where needed. That’s one avenue. I leaning toward tractor suitcase weights bolted on a rail of some sort fabbed up.
I would hope you have moved all of your heavy basement stuff forward before considering adding dead weight!
Roadmaster 8 airbag suspension H frame movement and resulting wandering
JDCrow1 hour ago, RoadTripper2084 said:Since you've literally tried all but one of the commonly used "solutions" and are still in the hunt I give your opinion some weight on this matter (see what I did there). 😉
So the article states:
And mentions DPs but doesn't suggest an altered ratio for them. Are you using 50%? What does that actually mean? That the front axle weight should be 50% of the rear axle weight?
On my rig, with full diesel and water tanks, 1/2 full propane tank I weighed out as:
Front Axle: 4470kg / 9,854.66 lbs
Rear Axle: 8710kg / 19,202.3 lbs
Total Weight: 13,180 kg / 29,056.9 lbs
So that works out to 51.3%, so pretty much right on the money, I guess. 😎
I have noticed that it seems to handle a little better with a full diesel tank than one closer to empty.
You are on the money with your thoughts. The 50% yields me the 700lbs. That’s completely full. I can’t remember if that’s with the wife packing the closet full or not. She is a fiend when she packs.
The end of the article talks of a short Beaver being “solved” with the added weight. So as I mentioned, it’s about my last hurrah to get this thing tamed.
38 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:I would hope you have moved all of your heavy basement stuff forward before considering adding dead weight!
I have 1 basement bay. That figure I came up with is full water and fuel.
Roadmaster 8 airbag suspension H frame movement and resulting wandering
RoadTripper208457 minutes ago, JDCrow said:You are on the money with your thoughts. The 50% yields me the 700lbs. That’s completely full. I can’t remember if that’s with the wife packing the closet full or not. She is a fiend when she packs.
The end of the article talks of a short Beaver being “solved” with the added weight. So as I mentioned, it’s about my last hurrah to get this thing tamed.
I have 1 basement bay. That figure I came up with is full water and fuel.
I wonder how close you could get to the 50% mark if ran it temporarily with full diesel but empty water, etc. tanks? Basically lighten the rear as much as you can temporarily to "test' it at the correct ratio without having to add the weight to the front.
LazyDays
Bobbyboy8 hours ago, Dr4Film said:I have that emblem on the side of my 06 Dynasty so one of the previous owners must have belonged to the Crown Club.
Still have it on my 08 dynasty. It was good while it lasted.
Hairline cracks on my fiberglass roof cap
RoadTripper2084I'm cracking up!
...well, my rig's fiberglass cap is. I have many hairline cracks on my roof cap, generally around the top corners near where the top belt-line attaches the roof cap to the sidewalls.
(sorry my rig is dirty at the moment)
I suspect this is related to the flexing that occurs at these points when traversing uneven terrain or levelling. I'm pretty sure they've been there for many years, not a new thing. In any case, how concerned should I be? Do I need to remediate these somehow? Rig sits out all winter in freezing / thawing temps, will water freeze in these and make them worse?
Roadmaster 8 airbag suspension H frame movement and resulting wandering
JDCrow40 minutes ago, RoadTripper2084 said:I wonder how close you could get to the 50% mark if ran it temporarily with full diesel but empty water, etc. tanks? Basically lighten the rear as much as you can temporarily to "test' it at the correct ratio without having to add the weight to the front.
I have tried it all, problem who runs with an empty water tank? Usually a 2 day trip with an overnight boondock and need the water, and the ever present breakdown or have to hole up for weather.
With the suitcase weights, I can add or subtract weight as needed. So I can start at say 350lbs and work up to the 700lbs and if it falls in between in the middle great.
Lug nut size
SteveHebeOn 8/26/2023 at 4:43 PM, 96 EVO said:
Sorry, I should have kept reading before posting. 😞
AquaHot AHE-100-02S
96 EVO9 hours ago, zmotorsports said:
However, on the few that I have worked on that had contaminated or severely neglected fluid,
Mike, while I totally agree with you on this, especially being one whom has had a boiler tank leak, I find it very strange that nowhere in an AH owners manual does it give any schedule for changing out the boiler fluid!
They basically say, if you lose a pump, or a thermostat, here's how to drain and replace the fluid.
No mention at all about changing the fluid as a maintenance item!
Aqua-hot hot water coil leak
Jim PrattenNice option to consider should that day come.
Let me know if I correctly understand how this works.
Hot water demand flow will cause a paddle switch to operate, which in turn powers a circulation pump and operates a 3-way valve to permit antifreeze flow. The Aqua Hot antifreeze will begin circulating through the heat exchanger heating the cold water. A mixing valve will ensure resulting hot water output doesn’t exceed a safe temperature.
Need service in the Milwaukee area? I highly recommend Cummins Coach Care there.
BennieHJust got our coach back from service at Cummins, Milwaukee WI.I had a Frost Plug at the back of our ISC350 start leaking. I normally would take care of it myself but, I am 9 weeks out of open heart surgery and I am not up to it. I called Cummins Milwaukee (they are a Coach Care Service Center) and we dropped the coach off Last Friday. I also asked that they service our air dryer. Picked the coach up and it was completed, tested and ready for us.Super friendly and Courteous staff. Coach was immaculate. Pricing was fair and we are leak free!Need service in the Milwaukee area? I highly recommend them!--Bob. 2003 Monaco Camelot 40 PBDD
2011 Camelot residential refrigerator install questions…discussion.
Ron ShantosI am in the final stage of readiness to install the new residential refrigerator. It has to come in the EMERGENCY EXIT window on the driver side. I have the desk which I have built an extended top to support the refrigerator coming thru that window.
HOW FAR CAN THAT WINDOW be opened up??? Any danger of it coming OUT OF THE TRACK??
Appreciate and input.
Aqua-hot hot water coil leak
Jims rv diesel heater repaYou got it perfect.the mixing valve is a thermostatic valve which is very accurate you can adjust temp of hot water by gauge attached to mixing valve.The Aquahot operates like it did before there is no interruption of wiring or controls ,you have to find 12 volt dc power to power board.Its really not a big secret as a plumbing and heating contractor we built a lot of heat exchangers for radiant heat snowmelt etc.i thought it was a shame to rebuilt or replace unit when it was still working well because of coil leak.
thanks for response
you know what your doing
jim
ps it does not have to be built on board ,I like it though because all controls are right there,if Aquahot is up to temp and you have no hot water you go to board
Moving Factory Speakers to Ceiling
DBRV.0On 10/1/2024 at 1:28 PM, 96landyacht said:Is there a void across the entire ceiling for wiring, etc., or are there only raceways between insulation for the wiring from the factory?
Yours is 12 years older than mine, so consider the following with caution. After understanding mine and watching many Youtube videos on ceilings and roof topping replacements, I believe that none have voids. Typical constructions seems to be the following, from top down:
Roof material
1/8" (or 3/16"?) plywood panel (called Lauan)
Polystyrene foam - like cheap white foam coolers - normally between 2 and 4 inches
Another Lauan panel
Interior covering / fabricThen periodically along the length, often to support constant weight like air conditioners, there are aluminum ribs that run for side-to-side.
Therefore, primary construction is an ice cream sandwich. The center is foam, the top and bottom are Lauan. Some wires may have pre-determined routes, but there is NO guarantee or standard. Additionally, wires may run on the bottom of the ice cream, and/or on the top of the ice cream.
These descriptions are my understanding through observation, thus I may be wrong for many models.
2011 Camelot residential refrigerator install questions…discussion.
Rocketman3Ron,
I can’t help much on the size of the window… we brought our in through the front door. Took out front chairs, and opened ft door wide open, put painters tape on metal door frame. Then took off doors to fridge. Had the two burly delivery guys lift it in (tipped them well!).
To fasten mine down…had to move the shelf lower - shored it up well. Then through the metal tray in the back (bottom) - drilled through that and used a bolt that goes through the shelf - so it’s bolted to the shelf. Also have 3 or 4 more screws going down through that metal tray too. On the side of the fridge that goes towards the front of the rig - added a 1x4 board (with carpet)along the side, so the fridge slides in and rests on that board. This way there is no side to side movement during a quick stop - because the fridge is already against the cabinet on that side. Also added a board on the top back to help prevent the fridge from “tipping out”.
So far 2-1/2 years of full-time usage, including two trips to Baja and one trip to Alaska, and it has not moved at all.
Good Luck!
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