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Here's what the Monacoers have been talking about:
Index
Discussions
Dr4Film
@Jims rv diesel heater repa One observation after reviewing your Heat Exchanger Board and its components, I don't see any easy method of replacing a failed component, eg. pump, control box, etc. as all of the copper is soldered together.
What do you do if that situation arises?
saflyer
When I first heard about 3-D printing the Carefree shade mounts immediately came to mind. Textbook example of the new technology use. Is there a section in the Files for depositing the 3-D instructions for various parts?
Camelot Traveler
I'm using the resources I have to help deliver supplies via road and air until the government resources can get fully set up. I am part of a group called the Carolina Aviators Network who are working with Operation Airdrop. We've been using civilian helicopters and aircraft to get supplies in to remote areas as well as help rescue victims stuck in places where roads are washed out. We are basing operations out of Statesville NC and Hickory NC. I flew a mission from Statesville to Jackson County (south of Sylva) which took us right over was used to be Chimney Rock. It is very sad indeed. Headed back out today for a couple runs. A Chinook was about to land when we took off so the government supplies are starting to flow in. It has been so awesome to see the community supporting community. There has been an endless line of cars and trucks for days dropping off supplies to the Statesville and Concord airports.
If interested, the group set up a Facebook page so the public can see the efforts and contribute if so willing. Hurricane Helene Airlift Relief
MOD EDIT….LINK
Tom Cherry
EVERY MH is DIFFERENT.
MOST will remove the window (the ENTIRE FRAME) and use a window. Probably 50% or more of our members did that. Dealers will ALWAYS pull the window….after removing the Blind/Valance assembly. That is EASY. Many YouTubes on how to pull and reinatall. These are mainly for when you disassemble the windows for moisture and fog and such removal…. BUT…concept is same. Pull the window…..put aside…..take out the beast….bring in new…reinstall. Double stick tape and caulk.
WHY…..easier….
NOW, many have used the front door. More than a few regretted it. They couldn’t or messed up the entire seat removal….and reinstall or didn’t do it.
Dashes are the number one collateral damage….big time. One of the boxes (refrigerator) gets stuck…and the “we can do anything” highly unpaid burley’s says…”IT’s IT or ME”. Push, shove, beat….RIP,
SO….be advised. Folks have scarred their dashes and messed up the copilot chair or had issues with the chair.
I’d venture to say….90% PLUS of all Res replacements go through a “removed” window. NOW….also understand. Monaco never cut a window opening “square”. Go, use a little judicious force….there is usually a corner where they used a rubber mallet. I had my Driver’s side…big sucker….repaired. First thing the frame shop did was beat out the corner. It works FINE….sliding. An Ex Monaco supervisor ran a shop. The rectangle windows are NOT AS BAD.
Just a synopsis of reading over 500 replacements….over 15 years…. The WINDOW method is more of a slam dunk….
Your RIG and no offense to your skill set….but we often learn more from what others messed up…than the successes ….
Tom Cherry
11 minutes ago, Camelot Traveler said:I'm using the resources I have to help deliver supplies via road and air until the government resources can get fully set up. I am part of a group called the Carolina Aviators Network who are working with Operation Airdrop. We've been using civilian helicopters and aircraft to get supplies in to remote areas as well as help rescue victims stuck in places where roads are washed out. We are basing operations out of Statesville NC and Hickory NC. I flew a mission from Statesville to Jackson County (south of Sylva) which took us right over was used to be Chimney Rock. It is very sad indeed. Headed back out today for a couple runs. A Chinook was about to land when we took off so the government supplies are starting to flow in. It has been so awesome to see the community supporting community. There has been an endless line of cars and trucks for days dropping off supplies to the Statesville and Concord airports.
If interested, the group set up a Facebook page so the public can see the efforts and contribute if so willing. Hurricane Helene Airlift Relief
God bless all those involved.
David (2009 Camelot)
20241002_202957234_iOS.heic 595.03 kB · 0 downloads 20241002_195424753_iOS.heic 1.36 MB · 0 downloads
Raised in Maiden. Have friends in many rural areas. God bless you and your group. Be safe in the wild blue. Flew, as a passenger, in and out of both airports….
THANKS for sharing….
Just to explain the magnitude of this. Two photos. One is a composite of the bride over Bluestone SP…probably I77…. Driven a lot….and remember a majestic view. Second is the location. Note that is a 3 hour drive from Boone, NC. Many know Wytheville. Popular ON CG there.
The Bluestone SP is on the NEW RIVER. This is the NE Quadrant or the “OMG side of the Eye”. Look what was STILL LEFT. The words of a N C STATE Meteorologist ring in my head. Helene sucked up ever milliliter of water from the Gulf….then realized, when she got to the mountains….it was HER or IT…so she dumped all the water to survive…”. Worst since Great Western NC Flood of 1916….
August 2024 Ouray, CO Trip and pictures
Pudgy Camper
22 hours ago, zmotorsports said:
We come into Ouray from the North, through Montrose. We head south on Hwy 50 out of Grand Junction, then in Monrtose to Hwy 550 south into Ouray.
We've done the route from Durango to Silverton and then into Ouray on a couple of occasions during some hop, skip and jump trips, but the last dozen years or so we stay the whole week in Ouray and just go straight from home in northern Utah directly to Ouray. The road over from Durango into Silverton isn't too bad, but the road from Silverton to Ouray is not for the faint of heart, so I am less inclined to recommend it to people unless I know them or their driving style as the drop-offs freak some people out.
Thanks Mike, yeah that route from Silverton to Ouray is not very motorcoach friendly!
We might try and do an Ouray trip next fall. We would be coming from Phoenix and looks like the best route for us would be through Cortez, Delores then up to Ridgway. I've been to Telluride that way before and its not too bad.
Safe travels, Jason
jacwjames
People seem to be reluctant to remove a window. Over the ~16 years we've owned the coach I've had 5 windows out for one reason or another. I did remove the drivers side window to fix the fogging. Because of the size it was a little harder since I did it myself. Mine only used the compression rubber type seal with a bead of caulk around the outside.
I attempted to bring it in the front door, others had done it but they must have been a heck of a lot smarter/stronger then me. I even took out the passenger seat and stripped the doors off, NOPE, wouldn't go.
I took out the passenger side window above the dinette and slide the fridge in there. EASY, should have done that the first time.
windsorbill06
Here's some draft legislation, that if approved, would dramatically change the cost of Quartzsite camping costs. FWIW
Roadmaster 8 airbag suspension H frame movement and resulting wandering
b_faster
20 hours ago, JDCrow said:Having followed along reading thoughts, I’ll throw mine in, as it’s a different perspective.
My coach is short, 34’. I have installed just about everything mentioned above. Only thing I have not installed is the Source Rear sway bar. I have one, but not into drilling the frame at this point.
Because of my length, I’ve always felt the coach doesn’t contact the road correctly, and thus feels light. It’s almost like I’m in a drag race, front end off the ground, and the coach goes where it wants and I’m just trying to keep it between the lines as it flies down the hwy.
It is most definitely worse when coasting, better when the Jake is on or when under power .
At any rate, I ran across this article from HENDERSON’s and applied the ratio base on my axle weights and I’m about 700lbs light in the front.
I’m in the process of how to get it. In drag race days, racers would melt lead into valve covers and bolt on where needed. That’s one avenue. I leaning toward tractor suitcase weights bolted on a rail of some sort fabbed up.
Welding is out of my wheelhouse currently, so will have to source it out. It’s going to be a winter project I think.
Roadmaster 8 airbag suspension H frame movement and resulting wandering
Pudgy Camper18 hours ago, JDCrow said:You are on the money with your thoughts. The 50% yields me the 700lbs. That’s completely full. I can’t remember if that’s with the wife packing the closet full or not. She is a fiend when she packs.
The end of the article talks of a short Beaver being “solved” with the added weight. So as I mentioned, it’s about my last hurrah to get this thing tamed.
I have 1 basement bay. That figure I came up with is full water and fuel.
After reading that Henderson article it got me thinking what my ratio is.
Steer axle - 11,700
Drive axle - 19,120
That's a 61% ratio for me. About 2000lbs heavier at the front than the recommended 50/50 ratio.
I'm still working on taming my beast but its getting there. Just added the rear cross bars and had my TRW rebuilt and it's adjusted pretty good. Getting ready for a 2000 mile round trip to Texas, we'll see how she does!
AquaHot AHE-100-02S
zmotorsports14 hours ago, 96 EVO said:Mike, while I totally agree with you on this, especially being one whom has had a boiler tank leak, I find it very strange that nowhere in an AH owners manual does it give any schedule for changing out the boiler fluid!
They basically say, if you lose a pump, or a thermostat, here's how to drain and replace the fluid.
No mention at all about changing the fluid as a maintenance item!
I have not found any specific recommendation from Aqua-Hot nor the previous literature put out by Vehicle Systems Inc. regarding routine service intervals for the fluid in any of the service manuals or literature either. The fluids I have replaced were due to either leaks and/or repairs as you have stated, with only a few from owner's requests after asking my opinion. That being said, only a couple were bad enough to warrant a bit more extreme measures due to the "nastiness" of the boiler fluid. The others just needed a drain and fill after the repair. Although, on my coach I have drained and filled three times in the almost 18 years of our ownership. First time was due to a major repair when we first purchased it. I think it was one of the reasons, if not the main reason, it was traded in and the original owners knew about the issue but didn't disclose it when trading it in. The coach was only 4 model years old when we purchased it in early 2007 and I had to end up pulling the unit from the coach to repair and test. The next time I replaced the boiler fluid was in 2012 when I replaced all of the heat exchangers with the quieter Cozy III units from Aqua-Hot and removed the Monaco made exchangers. The last time was in 2020 when I was performing other major preventive maintenance on the coach as I wanted to just replace the boiler fluid seeing as how it was 8 years old as preventive measures.
I spoke to a certified Aqua-Hot technician about ten years ago that said "it shouldn't need replacement because it is a sealed system." While I agree with him on the premise that it is in fact a sealed system, what I don't agree on is that fluids don't need to be replaced. No fluid lasts forever, especially those that are subjected to extreme heat cycling, but that's just my opinion after being in the industrial maintenance field for 36+ years now.
Aqua-hot hot water coil leak
Jims rv diesel heater repaWould have to cut out and solder.Could build in pex pipe.would be easier to change out parts.would have to hire plumber to resolder.I also have installed flush valves to clean out heat exchanger ever once and awhile just like you would do which tankless res heaters.
i guess it would be up to person who wants unit.could add unions
good observation
House water pump
grizzlyOut of the blue my house water pump quit working after I was using it a couple of days ago. Found fuse in back closet multiplex system and it was ok. Light turns on at the switches. Are there any more fuses any where? Or is my pump just dead?
2011 Camelot residential refrigerator install questions…discussion.
Ron ShantosI am a little confused. My Beaver Contessa has an EMERGENCY Window that OPENS (hinged via a track on the top) is large enough for the refrigerator to be brought in minus the box. The window opens outward. Why would I need to remove the window? See my attached photo of window. Just holding it open for you to see. It opens 90 degrees. The window is 47x47. This is how we removed the Dometic.
The 2x4 structure you see in the picture is a table I built over the desk in order to protect the deck and give a place/shelf to bring the refrigerator in. Would appreciate your input on this options
Aqua-hot hot water coil leak
Jim Pratten14 hours ago, Jims rv diesel heater repa said:You got it . . .
Thanks Jim.
Is the purpose of the 3-way valve to eliminate any flow and reduce heat loss?
House water pump
Dwight LindseyGeorge: What is the brand and model of your water pump? How old is it? My original water pump quit after about 10 years. I was able to extend it's life by almost a year by hitting it with a hammer. Not kidding. Some light taps on the top of the water pump freed up the pressure sensor. About a year after the hammer hits it quit completely, I replaced it with the same model, a Sureflo House water pump
MyronTruexPower to the pump likely passes through another magic box/relay. It is a latching relay. A heavier wire/fuse power goes to the water pump relay and passes through when it is engaged.
Bad relay in ems panel
JerryWThanks to all who replied to my questions. The bottom line is I will continue with the bypassed relay until such time as another issue arises. Thanks to Tom C for the call and making sure I understand how this all funtions.
2011 Camelot residential refrigerator install questions…discussion.
birdshill123Very easy. The window us hung from a rail. Just like an awning rail. At either end there is a very small Robertson screw
Remove the rear screw and the windows will slide all the way and out. You might have to first sptay the rail with wd40. It takes 2 people. I don't know if you have valence over that window bit the blind and the valence have to come out. The fridge will be tight in that opening so it has to be 100% level. Have fun
Hairline cracks on my fiberglass roof cap
timaz996I have similar cracks at the four corners of my coach and I have just sealed them with dycore non-leveling sealant. Not sure if that's the way to go but that's what I did.
Roadmaster 8 airbag suspension H frame movement and resulting wandering
David PrattFor those Members who are on the fence about installing the Watts Link and/or Cross Bars the following is my own experience.
Back in 2014 when Van was developing the the Cross Bars and Watts Link for the Roadmaster chassis he wanted to install the Watts Link on a tag axle coach. He was having excellent results with non-tag axle coaches and felt that there might be an improvement for the Tag Axle coaches.
After much discussion we decided to use my 05 Exec as the Guinea Pig to develop and install the Watts Link and a set of rear crossbars on a Tag Axle coach.
The following is my evaluation of the Watts Link after the installation.
Van, The Watts Link will definitely make a Tag Axle Coach handle better, it does make a difference, so your curiosity was correct and thanks for encouraging me to be a part of it. These are my first observations so far. Once I get the cross braces installed and go on our trip after Christmas I will be able to give you more input. I am looking forward to driving the coach on the next trip, which will probably test the Watts Link Installation more.
As we have discussed numerous times, I believe my Exec handles very well. This assumption is based on having driven other coaches of comparable weight, size equipped with a Tag Axle. The two coaches that I consider the best driving/handling is the Prevost and the Fore Travel IH-45 when compared to my coach.
There are Four areas on my coach that were not very noticeable on the Prevost and the Fore Travel. (1) The "Push and Push Over when being passed by a Semi. (2) The Squirreliness when driving on rough or encumbered roads. (3) The Firmness of the feel of the Coach when changing lanes and abrupt avoidance maneuvers, such as hard braking and quick turns. (4) The last is Tracking on the Crowns of Highways. The Tru-Center takes a lot of the work out of it. It will be interesting to see if the Watts Link Installation lessens that and if it helps the Tru-Center be more precise.
The trip this past weekend was 450 miles and proved to be a good drive to test the Watts Link installation. The weather along the route was very windy (15-20MPH) and about 250 miles was all crosswind, intermittent rain showers that at times were real gully washers. about 80 miles was on construction highways.
Before leaving the barn I set my Tru-Center at neutral with wheels straight ahead. This would enable me to evaluate the Watts Link on its own merits without the help of the Tru-Center.
As soon as I pulled onto the highway from the house to I-95, I could notice the difference of how the coach drove. This is a narrow two lane road with good crown and rougher than hell. I did not feel any effects from the crown pull which I did before, Definitely a PLUS. I purposely took the sharp left hand curve faster than before just to see how the coach re-acted. The coach went around that curve like it was on a rail and under control. The coach responded much better it did not have that soft feeling you get when entering curves.
Driving north on I-95 I had to contend with a 15-20 MPH crosswind. I still had to put input into the steering wheel to keep the coach in its lane, which I did expect. The big difference is steering correction input was minimal compared to what I used to have before the Watts Link Installation. Crosswinds, especially the stronger gusts would move the coach and would take more effort to correct, now much less. The coach still drove and tracked very well and was much more comfortable to drive in the crosswinds. Now, understand I was not using the Tru-Center to help the coach track straight. Curiosity finally got the best of me and I pushed the button on the Tru-Center to center the wheel against the crosswind and road crown and what a difference it made. I use to think my coach handled well, especially when using the Tru-Center to help overcome the road crowns and cross winds. The coach drove like I had enabled the Tru-Center before I decide to use it. With the Tru-Center switched on and compensating for the crosswinds I can now drive the coach with one hand/ two fingers. The Exec actually feels like it is riding on a Rail compared to before. Sandy was definitely Impressed as she thought I was crazy in the first place to do it. She felt the coach rode great before.
I still could feel the push from a Passing Semi, but the correction now is about 80% less than before the Watts Link Installation.
The coach was very stable when driving in the constructions zones where the pavement was uneven and rough, no darting or squirmy feeling, tracked very well. There is a much more noticeable improvement over what it was before the Watts Link Install.
On a smooth highway and no crosswinds the coach drove and handled well as before, but much differently than before absolutely no darting or wandering.
At this point I have not found one negative thing I can put my finger on that is a takeaway from installing the Watts Link.
My 05 Exec handled very well before the Watts link Installation and I really did not know what to expect if anything after installing it. I am much surprised and thoroughly happy with the difference the Watts Link Installation has made to the ride and handling. Now It definitely has a ride I would compare to a Prevost and maybe even Fore Travel.
It is hard to put everything down in an email, but Installing the Watts Link was worth the Effort. It will be interesting to see if the rear cross braces will make the handling even better
Man, I love it when a plan comes together
House water pump
Dr4FilmHere is a rough schematic of the water pump circuit. Some people have found an in-line fuse just before the pump itself.
Alignment Specs
Steve and CallieI have a 2005 Monaco 40 DST. Having an alignment done. Owners manual shows the following specs, would like to confirm these are still accurate. If you know of an alignment shop that is good we these, their information would be appreciated. Thank you.
Camber Front Spec. 0.00 Tol. 0.40. Rear Spec. -0.25. Tol. 0.40
Caster. Front Spec. 6.00 Tol. 0.50. Rear Spec. 6.00. Tol. 0.50
Toe. Front. Spec. 0.03. Tol. 0.12. Rear. Spec. 0.03. Tol. 0.12
Rock protection type for Neptune towing a Focus. 2 Fog lights shattered so far.
Dale NI've looked at mustache, solid, paneled and other types of rock guards including the 'Protect-a-tow' and am not sure the best way to not keep replacing fog lights. I stay off of dirt roads so that is not all the problem.
Costs range from$78 to over $500 for the systems yet at $180 for a used fog light and installation you can add that far real quick.
My 03 Neptune 36PBD has a curved fiberglass rear that might not hold much and I'm not sure how much twist is put on the hair or solid guards.
The Protect-a-tow is mounted with tension on both the MH and the toad. It should just keep the debris from coming up onto the vehicle. I know not to drag and flip stuff up. My clearance is 24 inches max.
Enough of my guesses now I'm looking for experts who have had, used or stop using different methods of protecting the car. Another concern is the exhaust pointing down and burning the guard. Photo attached of the rear.
Large Slide not coming in square and has shifted
Steve and CallieOpen your baggage doors look up inside the baggage compartment close to the outside wall, you will see an electric motor with gear box, a square shaft will be connected, follow the square tube, you will see an adjustment plate, likely the bolts have came loose or broke.
Alignment Specs
Steve and CallieI was looking for anywhere, if nothing else, I can call for guidance.
Thank you.
Alignment Specs
Dr4FilmSteve, one of the most prestigious chassis shops in the country is Josam in Orlando. Henderson's Alignment in Oregon is also right up there.
Josam - 2025 Gathering Update & Agenda - as of September 3, 2024
NAMVET77Just registered for the rally in February and there weren't many sites available so we selected one of the remaining 10 sites. Hope to see everyone there.
Don Genesse
Alignment Specs
timaz996Before doing an alignment make sure your six pack valves don't have any leaks. A 10% leak in a couple of valves can twist the chassis and make it feel like it's out of alignment. It happened to me.
Alignment Specs
Dr4FilmThe 6 pack valves except for the two on the top which are for Ride Height are not in the equation while aired up to Ride Height and driving.
Please explain how your 6 pack affected your alignment unless you are stating that your ride height was off?
Alignment Specs
Steve and CallieWill be checking ride height, will check for leaks at the same time.
Thank you.
41 minutes ago, Dr4Film said:Steve, one of the most prestigious chassis shops in the country is Josam in Orlando. Henderson's Alignment in Oregon is also right up there.
Josam - Roadmaster 8 airbag suspension H frame movement and resulting wandering
ChargermanThanks Dave,
That’s what I needed to hear. I will move forward with the Watts link. What were the results of the rear cross bars? From what Mike Hughes has told me, the only item he makes to fit my 06 Executive is the front Watts link
Large Slide not coming in square and has shifted
Tom CherryOn 8/26/2024 at 12:11 PM, Keith Russell said:2002 Monaco Sig series 45ft - was having an issue with slider not coming in and out properly and notice that the entire slide has shifted about half an inch to the back. What I believe happened is when you bring slide in, the side closer to the driver would come in strong and by kitchen would seem to get stuck and would need help pulling in, then when going out with the side the kitchen side would be strong but the side by driver would not go out all the way and stay about 5 inches from extending all the way - the pump would sound like it is fully extended. So now I went under the coach to where the motor is and checked the fluid level and nothing was on the dip stick, now I feel like the dip stick. Now have filled reservoir up and still same issue. It has shifted towards the back to were it is hitting the guide plate. Any thoughts?
Do I need to bleed the hydraulic system somehow? possible air in system - how do I do that? Also how do I get slide to move back toward the front a half of inch? Right now its basically the kitchen area is fully extended and by driver area won't come in - everything is cocked
Thanks in advance,
Keith
NO, at least NOT on the new or the dual Hydraulic Slides. There is probably (IS) a Balancing cylinder. It's purpose is to keep the slide moving properly. The only way to do it... And you might need a helper. With the slide either IN or OUT....then hold the button for maybe the count of a quick 5. You want to hear the pitch of the motor change. Many members do NOT know this....and Monaco was not very "VERBAL". SO, you ALWAYS HOLD in the button for a few seconds.
NOW....extend the slide. Have someone assist if it is balky. THEN when fully extended...hold on the switch for the same count.
SO, you cycle ONE SIDE....then the OTHER....and repeat. What you are doing is purging the air...and it can be trapped anywhere....not necessarily in the balky one. HOLDING IN, after EITHER Direction is a MUST....but now you have to "REMEDIATE" or fix what has happened.....
You MAY need to do this for several cycles. Each time you bleed of remove the air pockets. DO NOT know if you have 50 A service or which bank...PROBABLY the HOUSE. If you are on 50 Amp....this will replenish the batteries. ONE TRICK....
Use the Genny or be on 50 AMP. Disconnect all power/Genny. TURN OFF both House and Chassis Disconnect switches. THEN use an automotive Jumper cable and jumper the POSITIVES. THEN turn BACK ON THE Disconnects. That is the same as holding ON the BATT BOOST.
NOW, get on 50 A or run the genny. You will have a HIGHER voltage....the Hydraulic motor will be operating at the proper voltage. Even a 1/2 VDC drop will slow the motor down....that also ramps up the AMPS....so the motor is running HOTTER. THAT WILL (don't ask how I KNOW) burn up the Hydraulic motor.
SO, when you are doing repetitive slide cycling....best to have the extra bank.
This should work. It has for many and no one ever had to bleed. NOW, this is for a Lippert System...but I THINK it works the same for the HWH. All use the THIRD cylinder or balance.
Make sure any moving parts or slider wear surfaces are LUBRICATED. Many folks never lube the slides and often complain about balky or erratic slide functioning.
Purging the air and also being properly lubed is the key.
Let us know.
Need service in the Milwaukee area? I highly recommend Cummins Coach Care there.
Paul J A20 hours ago, BennieH said:Just got our coach back from service at Cummins, Milwaukee WI.I had a Frost Plug at the back of our ISC350 start leaking. I normally would take care of it myself but, I am 9 weeks out of open heart surgery and I am not up to it. I called Cummins Milwaukee (they are a Coach Care Service Center) and we dropped the coach off Last Friday. I also asked that they service our air dryer. Picked the coach up and it was completed, tested and ready for us.Super friendly and Courteous staff. Coach was immaculate. Pricing was fair and we are leak free!Need service in the Milwaukee area? I highly recommend them!--Bob. 2003 Monaco Camelot 40 PBDDCummins in Oak Creek, Wi. ???
Roadmaster 8 airbag suspension H frame movement and resulting wandering
David PrattVan and I were sort of skeptic about whether the crossbars would help much at all, but we decided why not install them and see what if any could improve the handling of an already well handling coach and would it improve any more than what we attained with the Watts Link.
The crossbars for the drive axle surprised both of us and worked as expected. Van custom made the Cross Bars for my coach because I was the R&D coach. Mike should be able to make them as all the hardware is the same as any other Cross Bar Kit except the bars will be shorter than a non-tag axle coach.
After installing the Watts Link I still had a slight push from an approaching and passing Semi that was 80% better after installing the Watts Link. Adding the crossbars eliminated that other 20% and the push from an approaching and passing Semi disappeared.
In my own personnel opinion the Watts Link is the Priority Upgrade to improving the ride, handling and performance of the road Master Chassis whether it be an 8 or a 10RS chassis. It is money well spent.
House water pump
Tom Cherry5 hours ago, grizzly said:Out of the blue my house water pump quit working after I was using it a couple of days ago. Found fuse in back closet multiplex system and it was ok. Light turns on at the switches. Are there any more fuses any where? Or is my pump just dead?
MODERATOR EDIT.
2006 and the Intellitec MPX was a STRANGE YEAR. FOR WHATEVER REASON....the 2006 Dynasty and UP had a NON Intellitec MPX or HYBRID. Assuming that the 2006 Dynasty and UP are the SAME as the 2007 is NOT CORRECT. Check the Print Below.
FIRST...there is NO Intellitec Pump Controller. This is the CORRECT print...right from the Wiring Diagrams in the manul
This post was up before the others popped up.
THEREFORE....the following....or the original post is correct....
ODDS ARE... You have a REPLACEMENT Water Pump. You should have had the AquaTech RV55 (known by other numbers)...the the RV55 is what Monaco bought. Since there is a FUSE on the Intellitec MPX system... Monaco did NOT install a FUSE at the pump.
BUT, when someone...even warranty got a NEW PUMP (Remco now owns them), there is ALWAYS an INLINE FUSE HOLDER. Folks figure MORE is BETTER. With the crappy cheap fuse holder. LESS is better...as in "CUT IT OUT and Butt Splice". It is NOT needed. IT FAILS (I KNOW....I did the same....NEVER AGAIN).
SO, go to the pump. Try to pull it apart. It is NOW (or wasn't on mine) a click lock or a twist or screw. Pull it apart. TURN on the PUMP....you SHOULD have 12 VDC on the power side. IF SO....then turn off the MPX Switch. Cut out the crappy inline and BUTT SPLICE. All is WELL. Actually, the pump will run a smidge better as the most common failure is corrosion in that inline holder.
NOW....just to make this even MORE CONFUSING. The 2007 Dynasty and UP had a MANUAL SWITCH in the Service Bay. That is like the Camelots. In this picture, that switch is actually connected to the Private Toilet MPX switch. That is one of TWO Lighted Switch panels with TWO PIGTAILS. One is the 3 Wire Data Buss....that they all have. THE other one is a pigtail wired to the LIGHTED Pump Switch in the toilet. SO, when you PUSH the momentary contact switch in a 2006....it controls the Intellitec Module...BUT, when you push it in the 2007....it is in Parallel with the LIGHTED Switch in the Private toilet. NOW in 2008...Monaco did away with the switches in service bay. ALL were on the Intellitec MPX data buss....so that is why there is NO individual Pump Switch in the 2008....but a LIGHTED key pad.
THERE will be a pop quiz...but this is how it was done....different each year....
ODDS ARE...a bad fuse or fuse holder and it needs to be PULLED OUT. Monaco, per the print...never intended for it to be INSTALLED....
Let us know
Roadmaster 8 airbag suspension H frame movement and resulting wandering
Tom Cherry52 minutes ago, David Pratt said:Van and I were sort of skeptic about whether the crossbars would help much at all, but we decided why not install them and see what if any could improve the handling of an already well handling coach and would it improve any more than what we attained with the Watts Link.
The crossbars for the drive axle surprised both of us and worked as expected. Van custom made the Cross Bars for my coach because I was the R&D coach. Mike should be able to make them as all the hardware is the same as any other Cross Bar Kit except the bars will be shorter than a non-tag axle coach.
After installing the Watts Link I still had a slight push from an approaching and passing Semi that was 80% better after installing the Watts Link. Adding the crossbars eliminated that other 20% and the push from an approaching and passing Semi disappeared.
In my own personnel opinion the Watts Link is the Priority Upgrade to improving the ride, handling and performance of the road Master Chassis whether it be an 8 or a 10RS chassis. It is money well spent.
My experience was the same. I had done a LOT. As David said....he set this TruCenter...which I added many years before based on his praise... TO NEUTRAL.
I talked to him one on one after he reported the findings and such. He said, roughly quoting, the Watts Link seems to "multiply" or improve the steering. Translated....we did NOT have to adjust our TruCenters nearly as much.
I noticed that immediately as I was leaving Van's house after installing Mike's Watts Link and Van adjusted, minimally, my TRW box.
SO....when I TOUT the Stabilizer.... It maybe should be described as a "Fatigue Reduction" item. Even though I pretend to NOT to BE GROWING OLDER....I can tell that there is a bit of creeping driver Fatigue. I knew instantly that that was being reduced when the Watts was installed.
I also found out that if I did make a TruCenter Correction....it was minor and it HELD. In the past...without the Watts, you would have to fiddle with it....The TruCenter was great...and I still have it. It served my purpose in less SEE SAWING of the wheel...which I attribute to the overly sensitive or over designed Power Steering System. That was the complaint early on and there were hundreds of emails or posts on they Yahoo Site about the STEER with ONE hand and STABILIZE with the OTHER. I learned. I practiced that. BUT, after I added the TruCenter...the adjustments and such were reduced by at least 50 to 75%.
THEN...add in the Watts...and it is amazing....as David told me when we talked. SO...whatever the geometry and the impact that the Watts makes on the Chassis...that also "amplifies" the Steering Stabilizer. The stabilizer makes me less tired...and that was in 2010....I had it on in 2011 and drove over 7K miles and we were on the road a lot of the day. I was less tired them. AFTERWARDS in 2012...I added the Sway bars and Source Shocks...the improvements were documented by my WIFE. She could READ without headaches. Take away all the computerized drawing and what if and the "AUTOCAD" Finite analysis. When she can read comfortably for hours...and she got headaches the year before.... I KNOW THAT WAS MONEY WELL SPENT. Don't need a pro driver, like David....to verify that.
SO... YES, I am an advocate of the Stabilizer and it did improve or was more effective after the Watts.
As to the cross braces...a JUDGEMENT CALL. I reached a PLATEAU in my comfort and handling and NOW I have to slow down....otherwise, I get nasty remarks and looks. YES, I dare say, on my NON TAG rig....That the Cross Braces would help...but my Yukon does NOT WAG the Camelot. I DID, and Van confirmed this....add a LOCKING unit to the Tow Bar Receiver. Van made up a MONSTER of one. I bought an OFF the SHELF unit and it made a WORLD of difference.
That's it....
Rock protection type for Neptune towing a Focus. 2 Fog lights shattered so far.
Ivan KWe have made our own version and after around 40K miles not a broken light. Takes no time to hook it up, I just fold it over the bar when parked. Miniscule cost with stuff I already had around the shop.
Aqua-hot hot water coil leak
Jims rv diesel heater repa6 hours ago, Jim Pratten said:The purpose is a directional flow device.when no hot water use,it flows back into what heating zone I tied into.when hot water is in demand it cuts off water to heating zone and sends through heat exchanger.So it acts the same as a hot water priority system like the 250 units .as soon as hot water is turned off heating water returns to heating zone.All other heating zones operate as designed.i need a full flow through 60,000 btu plate heat exchanger to give unlimited hot water
that make sense
Rock protection type for Neptune towing a Focus. 2 Fog lights shattered so far.
Dale NFrom the photo I can see bungee in the seams. I assume the black is vinyl sewn into a track for the bungee. Reinforcement around the hitch and it looks good. Do you have a side or rear exhaust?
Only question left is what is the tan material? Water goes through it? And lastly what is the rod at the toad (I assume maybe stainless)?
Looks great and maybe a project for this winter at our site.
Alignment Specs
timaz9963 hours ago, Dr4Film said:The 6 pack valves except for the two on the top which are for Ride Height are not in the equation while aired up to Ride Height and driving.
Please explain how your 6 pack affected your alignment unless you are stating that your ride height was off?
I know they are not in play, but if they leak they will give you a problem. You can look up my post on irv2 from about five years ago to see how many people are misinformed about this.
Alignment Specs
Tom Cherry3 hours ago, Steve and Callie said:Will be checking ride height, will check for leaks at the same time.
Thank you.
Contacted Berry at Josam, very knowledgeable and helpful. Thank you.
BARRY... NOT Berry....
YES....he is a GREAT resource. He will discuss and tell you specs... he has provided us with front end data and specs as well as the RIDE HEIGHT setting for many coaches.
Monaco(ers) @ Quartzsite?
RNMCBRYes, they are allowing us to mske input to their rulemaking then they will do what they want.
Rock protection type for Neptune towing a Focus. 2 Fog lights shattered so far.
Ivan KThe fabric is for outdoor shade, I think 80% and yes, let's water through. The pipe is a thin wall gardening rod with fiberglass tree support rod inside of it, from Walmart or HD, simple stuff. I only need it because there is no full length bumper. I have a side exhaust but there could either be a cutout or some heat resistant sheet, I doubt it gets too hot unless you have DPF.
Monaco(ers) @ Quartzsite?
Jim McGarvieOn 8/16/2024 at 1:07 PM, waterskier_1 said:There are MANY Monaco related groups that gather at Quartzsite. The iRV2 is likely the largest. There are many smaller groups too.
I think the second-largest group, and possibly the largest if you count the number of coaches that come and go is the original Monacoers Get-Together, which is no longer an official Monacoers function. Per the request of the Monacoers owner, we now call this the Monaco Owners Get-Together. This group has been meeting since the late 1990's is still meeting at what some old-timers might remember as the Lew Andersen "Crash & Burn" site. This is north of town, in the Plomosa Road BLM Camping Area, east of Hwy 95 on Plomosa Road. This is a FREE 14-day stay area, but there is no water or dump. This was originally a Monaco's coach brand group, but, as most all other groups, has been opened up to any manufacturer and type rig. Most are still Monacos, and we are also recruiting many form the Monaco Owners FaceBook Page.
As mentioned, the Quartzsite BIG RV Show runs from Jan 18 - 26. Most of us will be there sometime during that time. Some arrive before Christmas, and some stay well into Feb.
This is not a structured gathering - there are no formal seminars, but a lot of help, guidance, troubleshooting, and even repairs occurs. When not doing that, and besides the Show, many of us have 4X4 or ATV/UTV and we like to ride the trails. We have some with trail knowledge dating back almost 25 years. You don't have to have an Off-Road vehicle, there is always room. We also seem to be able to put on several impromptu dinners too. Again, all informal.
I'l be putting something more formal together in a couple months, but this should be a good teaser, and I'll answer respond to questions as best as I can.
-Rick N.
Unless something unexpected comes up, we'll see you there again in January Rick.
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