Monacoers Daily News

Ha........... I'm in the music biz.... {{without so much of a thought to the people who were the ones that got them there!!!}}....... happens all the time ;-))

I'm going to mix with the Shell stuff for now and then next oil change decide then.

L

3 minutes ago, Les Hurdle said:

Ha........... I'm in the music biz.... {{without so much of a thought to the people who were the ones that got them there!!!}}....... happens all the time ;-))

I'm going to mix with the Shell stuff for now and then next oil change decide then.

L

FWIW

ANY GOOD AND KNOWN BRAND OF MOTOR OIL THAT IS THE SAME SPECS AND WEIGHT AND FOR DIESELS.

For example...  Monaco was getting a Kick Back from Texaco for specifying THEIR PRODUCTS...Straight from an INSIDER.

So, my first OIL CHANGE....what do I DO.  NEW MH.  BUT... I bought it NEW from a Dealer.  He agreed to have it serviced (it was driven 3200 Miles and was in Florida).  So... OIL and LUBE and have a Cummins FREE ECM update installed....there was ONE outstanding on the engine.

He took it to a local Cummins Dealer.  PROBABLY put in the BLUE Valvoline....since I HAD NO IDEA.

OK....next year.  MY TURN.  What OIL to use.  I went back to the Manual.  Found the Texaco EXACT OIL.  Tried to buy it LOCALLY.  The oil spec and type was a carryover from many years ago.  FINALLY, a Texaco distributor told me.  This OIL is NO LONGER MADE in the US Market.  It is NOW a South American Oil.  What I GONNA DO? IMPORT IT?  

OK....my late FIL was a farmer and always ran diesels.  He SWORE by Shell Rotella.  So, I put in the Shell Rotella Diesel that matched the specs of the Texaco.

Do that for a year or two.  THEN Tractor Supply starts carrying the Blue Valvoline that Cummins sells.  DONE DEAL.

I switched over to it....that was maybe 12 years ago.  NO ISSUES.

SO...  My THINKING.  Whatever the SPEC and Weight and for a DIESEL that is in your manual....  THAT IS THE SPEC.

BUT, if you really want to do it right.  Call a CAT DEALER.  Tell them the year and SN of the Engine.  Buy it from THEM.  You can't go WRONG.

OR...  Buy Shell Rotella or the Blue Valvoline.  After all this is a DIESEL ENGINE.  It needs a DIESEL ENGINE OIL.  Some folks MAY have other brands that they trust.  That is great.  I trust Shell because my dealer said it was a great oil and they used it, unless a customer had a specific brand and they bought it.  I always buy my own oil

BUT...NO SYNTHETIC....

Does Chevron NOT make a diesel OIL that meets the specs that are in your manual....OR you can call CAT and get the specs....

Hi Tom, thanks.

My trip starts today so little time [Moho was in the shop for 2 months only just go it back] there is a Quinn dealer near me so will call first thing.  However, as a pal said yesterday, better some oil than none.

L

Reminds me, somewhere I have a Mobile one synthetic can, CARDBOARD CAN, it had been hanging around and I finally realized, that's one rare item.  I would have never guessed the cardboard cans overlapped Mobile one's introduction. But this isn't the second half of the 20th century anymore, "synthetic" doesn't mean just PAO.  Synthetic and semi synthetic oil is mostly just a "cracked" or chemically treated dino oil.  So I don't see any reason not to use a semi synthetic, beside price. 

Hi Benjamin

But surely not mix match. mineral with synth?

Which module do you have to replace?? 

Guess i spent too many years as a young lad working for the likes of Ryder, hertz pensky working on the long haulers. Those companys choise was always Delo in part to the amount of miles there fleet ran was there oil of choise… I know i will change, we all will, however for me it wont be without a lot of kickin, screaming and of course as of late, BITCHIN😡

I picked up a 5 gallon pail of Delo 400 last week from my local Tractor supply. The last one they had. I also add 1 gallon of Lucas heavy duty oil treatment as well. Probably will switch to Valvoline Blue next year. Safe travels

So I left on my trip Oct 1 and headed toward N WA state. 

Stopped in MT near the Battle of Little Big Horn for a day, pretty interesting.

I then continued onto the North Cascades NP, after I got through Spokane my GPS wanted to take me all the way to I5, I had to trick it by going to a small town on the east side of the park BUT when I was ~150 miles away the GPS started to go crazy "recalculating" to 3 different routes but settling on one that took my 100 miles further.  So I had to resort to using my phone with the GPS as a backup, once I got close the Garmin finally ended up on the same route.

The route going E to W in the park had a long ascent with multiple switchback, slow going and on the opposite side it was mostly long descents.  It was a two lane road and they had turnouts for slow traffic which I used to let cars behind me pass.  There were a couple brave soles who passed me but not many.  

Stayed at a small campground in Rockport WA, just dry camped which I was fine with.  Spent a day in the park, been there done that, so headed toward the next park.

Got Olympic NP, both Walmarts in the area do not allow overnight parking (even though one website Walmartparklocator said they did).  I had made a reservation through Harvest Host at a winery but needed 1 night to tide me over.  So I went to the visitor center and looked at the displays and ultimately asked one of the rangers behind the desk about the campground, asked I my 40 RV would fit, she said yes and that the campground was empty so I should be able to Fit

So I drove up to the campground, four loops and no place to turn around so took a chance on the first last loop.   CRAP got a little was in that there was a little hill on a curve, large trees on either side, and it was raining with lost of leaves/needles on the road.  As I started up the rear wheels started to spin but caught and I was able to make it up and through that loop, no real good spots.  Next loop was better and found  a large pull off that I could park in, went and paid the $12 and settled in for the night. 

Next morning pulled out and parked in the car parking area, only one car so but no other choice.  Dropped the Jeep and went to drive through the park, stopped at a couple places and did some short hikes.  Headed back to the coach and hooked up and headed toward Harvest Host spot for the two night stay over.   The Olympic Cellar Wiinery had a nice spot to park, plenty of room to turn around.  Settled in and went in and partook in some wine sampling.  Met retired couples both afternoons, interesting conversations and stories of travels.  Can't beat that.  Bought two bottles of wine and a sampler for the cost of the stay but the conversations were priceless.

SO ONTO MY NEXT STOP,  >>>>>  MT RAINER, this is a fairly short drive. 

Trying to find a convenient stop near the park but so far no luck.  Found a county park but a little distance from the park.  A search for a campground came up with some sort of chain with membership requirements.  Anyone have any suggestions on a place to stay.  

Just spoke to the lady at Quinn............ they of-course have their own brand !!.........  the story apparently is;

3126 B/E. Switching bands no problem re top up as long as the 15-40 state is maintained [mineral] Switching to full synthetic at oil change is ok.    Not sure I'm that brave but will switch to Rotella or ?  and STOCK UP.

I run Rotella T6 synthetic in all my diesels. 
It's a little more expensive, but the protection, and cold-weather flow-ability is worth it to me.

Here we go... 2004 Monaco Camelot 350 ISC  engine  I just noticed a crack in my lower front radiator hose. I guess it's time to replace them all and the plastic expansion tank as well. Any new info on parts/process  or necessary curse words???

Quote

 

Jim W. 2004 Monaco Camelot  PDQ new to me March 2024   10850 miles 350 ISC. 

2 hours ago, Les Hurdle said:

Hi Benjamin

But surely not mix match. mineral with synth?

 

For top up, I'd use semi synthetic of the same brand before a different brand.  I agree, you usually want to avoid mixing oils.  My point was "synthetic" doesn't mean what it used to mean.  The rumors of oil seals failing from synthetic, if they were ever true with PAO, probably aren't true with seals that were made ten years after the original rumors started, and not with current dino "syntheticized" oils. 

If I was starting an engine every day through the winter, I'd use T6 or other 5w40 also, but I don't.  If I ever finish working on it, I might start it a few dozen times a year, on half a dozen trips, mostly at mild temps. 

I would like to add a little info to this discussion. I am a retired 43 yr career truck driver with about 4 million miles experience, a lot in British Columbia so mountainous terrain. I bought our present coach in BC from a retired heavy duty mechanic and shop foreman from a major trucking company in central BC. He had synthetic oil in the engine at that time, however when I next had the oil changed I went back to regular oil as Cummins manual said synthetic OK but don't extend mileage between changes so thought why spend extra dollars. Upon later talking to former owner asked why the synthetic and he explained that his former company had been testing with Cummins on extending service intervals with synthetic. These trucks hauled super B trains grossing 140,000lbs. What they were doing was going recommended mileage, testing oil, and if good just spinning on a new filter and keep running. I found this interesting so next change I went to synthetic, however I from my experience don't change on timeline, I change by mileage. I personally saw in my career saw the advantage to synthetics when the company I drove for went to synthetic gear oil in the differentials, grossing 105,000lbs pulling a long 6/7% grade the diffs would be 300 degrees, however after going to synthetic they would only reach 200 degrees. That sold me on synthetic gear oil. So this is something to ponder on, I don't recommend extending extending the mileage between changes but I found this info to be very interesting so thought I would share.

22 minutes ago, diplomat don said:

I would like to add a little info to this discussion. I am a retired 43 yr career truck driver with about 4 million miles experience, a lot in British Columbia so mountainous terrain. I bought our present coach in BC from a retired heavy duty mechanic and shop foreman from a major trucking company in central BC. He had synthetic oil in the engine at that time, however when I next had the oil changed I went back to regular oil as Cummins manual said synthetic OK but don't extend mileage between changes so thought why spend extra dollars. Upon later talking to former owner asked why the synthetic and he explained that his former company had been testing with Cummins on extending service intervals with synthetic. These trucks hauled super B trains grossing 140,000lbs. What they were doing was going recommended mileage, testing oil, and if good just spinning on a new filter and keep running. I found this interesting so next change I went to synthetic, however I from my experience don't change on timeline, I change by mileage. I personally saw in my career saw the advantage to synthetics when the company I drove for went to synthetic gear oil in the differentials, grossing 105,000lbs pulling a long 6/7% grade the diffs would be 300 degrees, however after going to synthetic they would only reach 200 degrees. That sold me on synthetic gear oil. So this is something to ponder on, I don't recommend extending extending the mileage between changes but I found this info to be very interesting so thought I would share.

I wouldn't drastically extend mileage on synthetic on a diesel.  I run it for the extra protection.
Diesel oil can thicken as it accumulates soot, and soot particles are extremely abrasive to bearings.

I do run long drain intervals on my daily driven cars, 10,000 miles on my Focus and Grand Marquis, but they get driven on the highway regularly.
I run Mobil-1 in my gas engines, and run 5w30.  I stay away from those 20w oils, they're just recommended due to CAFE fuel economy regulations.

1 hour ago, Jim Wallace said:

 Probably will switch to Valvoline Blue next year. Safe travels

You must put a lot of miles on if you change your oil every year?

The advice is to change every year to keep moisture at bay.............  cheap insurance.

Diesel oil can thicken as it accumulates soot, and soot particles are extremely abrasive to bearings.

The video I enclosed was from Delco.  'ashless'. is this the same as soot?

Not sure why I bother but until you start oil sampling before changing your oil, you’re throwing perfectly good oil away. Granted I have the advantage of oil sampling for 50+ years and have never had an oil related failure in thousand of hours…used to buy T4 in 55 gallons drums for less than $300.

There's not any moisture in an engine’s oil that works hard (40% power or more) most of the time…isn’t driven 2 miles to church on Sunday.

I sample around 10K miles (usually at 2 years) and based on the results change in another year around 15K…could go longer. Below is the results for my 08 Navigator…last sentence “Feel free to run this oil another 2000  miles”.

On 8/13/2024 at 8:08 AM, Mocephus said:

Thank you Dick. That sounds like a beast of a charger! I’ll check that out for sure!

I purchased a 100A charger and it’s crazy fast. Charges my 300ah battery at roughly 30% per hour. Very cool. 

If you want utilities, Western Washington Fairgrounds in Puyallup is probably your best bet.  If boondocking is your thing, try the Ranger Creek Airstrip Dispersed camping area outside Enumclaw. 

Richard

Ashless is not the same as soot. Soot is the carbon gunk that gets into the oil from the exhaust, think the black soot you used to see out truck tailpipes, or the stuff you see out of the hotrod diesel pickups these days.  Ash is mineral content of the oil, very bad for catalytic converters as it builds up, and/or inactivates the surface with metals.  If you burn the oil, the ash is left behind, just like any other organic material, the carbon and hydrogen burns off, but the minerals are left behind as ash. 

Where to purchase radiator hodes for a 2004 Safari Cheetah  38PDQ  Catapilar C7 engine. I have called Catapilar,  local truck repair, NAPA, etc No luck.

Does anybody know of where to get these?

I don’t have the same coach but when I replaced all of mine I got the diameters and dims off the old ones and went to NAPA. They had a book with all of the pre-bent hoses. I was able to find matches or ones that I could cut a section from to replace all of the hoses.

6 hours ago, Ivylog said:

You must put a lot of miles on if you change your oil every year?

About 6k a year. Not out of line with most people, I would think.

But now that I see your oil report, maybe 18 month intervals will be OK. My oil report a year ago, showed perfect numbers with 5700 Miles on the oil.

Thanks,

Ended up getting a site at the Alder Lake Campground SE of Tacoma who owns/operates it,  Pretty nice CG $33/night. 

I just set up and am going to make a run toward Mt Rainer visitor center, which is ~20 miles away.  There are not many roads access the part with 4-5 entrances.  Not sure which is the best option from here but I'll find out.  So the adventure continues.

I decided to stop at the Mt Saint Helens National Monument, not that far out of the way so I'll be looking for a spot there next. 

Bill, thanks for the reply, What I am getting from the drawings, we are taking the old electronic controller out of the loop but still using the existing solenoid and hydraulic valve in place as is and just splicing into it? Do I just order any 12v motor controller or do you recommend a part number. Plan on testing my existing solenoid this weekend to eliminated that being the issue. I also have ordered a needle valve to be able to test my fan motor to see if i can get it to speed up. Bryan 314-277-3590

I might get scolded for posting this on this thread but, should I guy go to Cummins with the coach and get a copy of the ECM files for the future in case this would happen to anyone else? 

 Sorry if this is inappropriate to post here, just seems somewhat relative for everyone else to think about, I would think that a fair amount of people are following this, maybe I’m late to the party here.

2007 Dynasty. Bedroom slides have started stop and go moving while bringing them in or out. I'm thinking it's something to do with the switch panel since both slides are doing the samething. Open for any ideas to fix before they stop moving at all.

MRNP has 2 major lodge complexes.  Sunrise is on the Northeast side as you come up from Enumclaw, and Paradise is on the South side.  We often made a long day of it visiting Sunrise in the morning, stopping at Chinook pass and Tipsoo lake picnic area for lunch and then continuing around the loop to Paradise in the afternoon and evening.  If the weather is clear, the view of the mountain from lake Tipsoo and Chinook pass is gorgeous.

I certainly agree with your decision to visit Mt St Helens.  I have fond memories as a teenager fishing Spirit lake with the mountain in the background.  Be sure and stop and watch the video (and the view) at the Johnston Ridge Observatory.  I hope you have good weather, the views are spectacular.

Richard

From where you are at Alder Lake, you will probably want to reverse that direction and go to Paradise first and then on to Chinook pass and lake Tipsoo.  From Chinook pass you will have to decide whether to return the way you came or go on around the loop to the Sunrise side.

Richard

Don't see why you would get scolded, I keep copies of my image on a thumb drive in the coach and on my devices myself, just for that possible mishap on the road. Certainly a good idea to get the file saved when one has service done or whatever opportunity to get one taken.

1 hour ago, Jdw12345 said:

I might get scolded for posting this on this thread but, should I guy go to Cummins with the coach and get a copy of the ECM files for the future in case this would happen to anyone else? 

 Sorry if this is inappropriate to post here, just seems somewhat relative for everyone else to think about, I would think that a fair amount of people are following this, maybe I’m late to the party here.

Yes, the next time you go to a Cummins or any other shop with the Cummins Insite software, bring a thumb drive and ask them to download the Cummins engine .EIF file from your engine ECM.  That's all you need.  You can ask them to also give you a PDF file with all options selected but most shops don't know how to do that.  If you have the EIF file and want a readable PDF file, send me a PM with the EIF file attached and I'll send you a PDF file that you can read.  

Two days ago while traveling my generator needed the boost switch to start.    Today, after parking, the generator doesn't turn over with the boost switch.    Further, there are no lights at the dash or hallway switch.    I hopped underneath, cleaned the terminals, and discovered no 12v current going INTO the generator (10qd).   Additionally the charge light on the magnum panel doesn't light up.   The inverter lights are in    I have four new house batteries coming tomorrow that hopefully will fix the low volt issue

My questions:

Am I missing a fuse or breaker upstream of the generator that could be causing the no switch light problem?    

How do I have no charging but inverting works?

if it's bad house batteries (which I believe I have) why won't the generator turn over on boost?   Or at least activate the switch light?

Will the new batteries fix the problem?    

Minor side note:    I traveled her for my only daughter's wedding tomorrow and am heading back south on Sunday    So I might be changing batteries in a tuxedo.      

Thank you for your assistance, I searched the forum but couldn't find a similar problem     I read both manuals for the generator and transfer switch without finding a solution     

If your house batteries are very low, charger will not kick in and your boost solenoid may not have enough to turn on. Someone will know what powers your dash lights but usual house lights are fed from the house batteries that you suspect dead. How it could be inverting from dead battery, I would have an inverter alarm but with shore power it would not be inverting anyway. Best check the battery bank voltage first.

I used summit racing, they have a great search feature that will search by inner diameter for straight hoses or bends.  For hoses that may be specific off the water pump or thermostat, search for a truck of similar year with that engine, I did that for the water pump inlet hose on my cummins that is specific to the cummins. 

I didn't make it clear.   I have dash lights, I'm referring to the small red light on the generator switch which give codes.    What you said makes sense about weak batteries.   Mine are 5 years old which is probably the end of their life.   Planning to have the new batteries in first thing in the morning.  

3 hours ago, jacwjames said:

Thanks,

Ended up getting a site at the Alder Lake Campground SE of Tacoma who owns/operates it,  Pretty nice CG $33/night. 

 

Is the park suitable for big rigs and towed?

That's fairly close to Chahalis , where we used to overnite at their Walmart till they shut it down.

Jim, guess a 50% increase is better than none but I go 100% more (at 10-12K miles) and then sample. 

I cannot find a replacement 12volt electric motor that operates my Onan generator slide track for in and out movement on my 2003 Monaco Windsor pusher 38PKD. 

4 hours ago, Jdw12345 said:

I might get scolded for posting this on this thread but, should I guy go to Cummins with the coach and get a copy of the ECM files for the future in case this would happen to anyone else? 

 Sorry if this is inappropriate to post here, just seems somewhat relative for everyone else to think about, I would think that a fair amount of people are following this, maybe I’m late to the party here.

I certainly wish I had the foresight to do this. But.... I'm not sure how willing the Cummins dealer would be to give you a copy of your own image. I have not had good experience with the techs or service there and asking for anything extra seemed especially impossible.

4 hours ago, Jdw12345 said:

I might get scolded for posting this on this thread but, should I guy go to Cummins with the coach and get a copy of the ECM files for the future in case this would happen to anyone else? 

 Sorry if this is inappropriate to post here, just seems somewhat relative for everyone else to think about, I would think that a fair amount of people are following this, maybe I’m late to the party here.

Oh! I see that you're in Minnesota. If I am able to get my rig going again I now have the hardware and software to make an image. If you're near the twin cities I could come pull an image for you. 

Hello everyone

I decide to ask this equation. Even if its might be the silly one...

Do brand of an air bag (air spring) matter? 

Does one better than the other in any way? How can you tell? 

I am in the middle of inspection of my air bags. As far as my records show,  my bus still wear originals.

I took one out, for a  closer inspection and to familiarize myself with how to. While having it in my hands - went to order a new one.

My bags don't leak. My bus stay straight. But I never really leaving it air'ed up ether. If it going to sit for few days, I always drop it down. Maybe I doing it wrong? Let me know please.  All bags look okay. Only upon closer inspection while having it on the workbench I could notice micro cracks in the rubber. Very similar to cracks on sidewall of the tires if you ever seen one. That makes me think. Is it time to change? 

On bus right now are - Firestone 1T15L -2  My local commercial truck supplier doesn't seem to be familiar with it. I did my own digging including reading parts catalog from this website. 

I manage to convince parts lady to order me Continental 99-12 P730. As far as my research take me... its a same airbag just bigger opening for an air line. But cost WAY more than some brand I never heard before. They tried to sell me Automann or something similar. I never heard of this name before. All I want is another 20 years of headache free service. 

Your insite much appreciated.

Greg.

On 6/27/2024 at 10:07 AM, Kenster said:

Intercooler, after cooler, charge air cooler, they are all designed to do the same thing, cool the air after it leaves the turbo charger and before it enters the engine. Considering your coach has an air to air after cooler, if JB Weld his sealed the leak, leave it alone. If it starts to leak again, it's not going to leave you sitting on the side of the road and will get you home. 

Can I ask, how you found the leak?

First I could hear it leaking air while driving with window open beside barriers, or wall, or anything that make sound wave bounce back. Then come spray bottle and soap water. And only then .... take hoses out. Plug one end. Plug air compressor to other end. Enjoy the bubble show :-)))

Status update:

Didn't used coach this summer. Wife managed to spend all money without leaving house :-)))) 

Im kidding! We (mostly me) rebuild whole kitchen. Flooring, drywall, electrical, plumbing... There is some work still left to do... but she is happy. 

Back to the coach - Took it for a ride few days back. While climbing hill -saw 21 psi on boost gauge. I think me doing okay for now. In long term will be fixing it. 

Much appreciate your guys replyes. 

2 hours ago, 96 EVO said:

Is the park suitable for big rigs and towed?

That's fairly close to Chahalis , where we used to overnite at their Walmart till they shut it down.

I'm ~40' with toad and fit in pretty easy.  ~1/3 of the sites are drive through off to each side.   

I've checked at 4 Walmarts, one in ID and three in WA, all were listed in the Walmart Locator site as allowing parking but all said NO.  I under can understand since there has been a huge abuse.   

This time of year the Alder Lake Campground is first come first serve.  I got here ~1PM so there were plenty of open sites.  I left for +5 hours and I could see a lot of sites have been occupied with a steady stream of others.  During the summer you have to make reservations and I'd beat it'd be tough to get one.  The people in the campsite next to me live ~25 miles away and they say this is the best campground in the area.  I can see why. 

Yeah, I was surprised last winter Chahalis Walmart ended overnighting!

It used to be a perfect first night stop on our migration south!

5 hours ago, hex_nut said:

MRNP has 2 major lodge complexes.  Sunrise is on the Northeast side as you come up from Enumclaw, and Paradise is on the South side.  We often made a long day of it visiting Sunrise in the morning, stopping at Chinook pass and Tipsoo lake picnic area for lunch and then continuing around the loop to Paradise in the afternoon and evening.  If the weather is clear, the view of the mountain from lake Tipsoo and Chinook pass is gorgeous.

I certainly agree with your decision to visit Mt St Helens.  I have fond memories as a teenager fishing Spirit lake with the mountain in the background.  Be sure and stop and watch the video (and the view) at the Johnston Ridge Observatory.  I hope you have good weather, the views are spectacular.

Richard

From where you are at Alder Lake, you will probably want to reverse that direction and go to Paradise first and then on to Chinook pass and lake Tipsoo.  From Chinook pass you will have to decide whether to return the way you came or go on around the loop to the Sunrise side.

Richard

That's what I did and it worked out well, no line to get in, minimal traffic.  The view driving up was good, had a decent view of MR.  By the time I got to the top it was clouded in.   I took a different longer route to go back to Alder Lake, scenic drive with very little traffic but took me an hour longer. 

My neighbor here in the campground said that several times during the summer they tried to get tickets for entry and never could, he couldn't believe I just drove right in with no tickets. 

I'll look at the other visitor center and check if I'd need tickets, I doubt I'd get lucky again if tickets are required. 

Mt Saint Helen looks like a decent stop, wondering there are any places to stay.  All the state campgrounds appear to be closed for the season, went past a number with the entry gates closed.  May have to get creative. 

When I had road debris take out my radiator, while it was being replaced I took the CAC to a shop for cleaning and inspection, I did not think I had a problem but when they tested it there was excessive leakage.  They say it's not uncommon for one to leak but mine was bad.  I was skeptical and went down there, they submerged in a vat and put air on it and it looked like a jaccuzi.  $1600 later.

I can 24 psi boost sometimes, most of the time ~23.  So not a big improvement but every little bit helps. 

8 minutes ago, jacwjames said:

 

Mt Saint Helen looks like a decent stop, wondering there are any places to stay.  All the state campgrounds appear to be closed for the season, went past a number with the entry gates closed.  May have to get creative. 

Ha, I remember when that volcano blew.

I live a couple of hundred miles away, and have no plans of visiting it! 

It looks like relying on Walmarts on west coast is a pipe dream, I'll continue to check but not hopeful. 

I had to get a part at an RV repair/part shop and talked to the manager.  I asked if there was a local ordinance, he said no.   He said he still see's people parked at different business and on the back streets people will just park and camp for weeks/months.  

I did get a 2 night stay with Harvest Host a winery in Port Angeles.  Worked out pretty good.   So I'll try more of these. 

Will also start checking on Casino's 

If needed I'll stop at campgrounds, didn't come this far to throw in the towel and go home.  Too much invested already. 

Did the majority of my last hibernation trip in casino parking lots!

Out west, Walmarts are few!!

Plenty of Walmarts, few that allow overnighting.

Here is the parts page for the Airbag, which were Firestones. 

I bought 2 new Conitech 2 years ago to carry as spare.   I bought them from TruckandTrailer.Parts.  Best price I could find. 

~3 months ago I removed the front passenger side airbag to get a feeling on how hard it would be to replace and if I could do it on the road.  In my garage I used the front jack to lift the front end off the ground and put jack stands underneath.  Replacing the airbag wasn't that bad I think I can do it on the road. 

The air bag I removed still was in excellent condition.  I washed it up and inspected and packed it up to carry as a spare. 

I had some 6X6" drop pieces and found I can use these to block the rear.  A 4X4 will work in the front so I carry these.  "Just in case" 

1 Air Bag Chassis.pdf