Monacoers Daily News

Call Source Engineering, they can get one from Radiator Supply House, who originally made them for Monaco. 

Below is a word of wisdom when sourcing a new radiator.

When I had to replace my radiator back in 2015 an OEM type radiator was quoted ~$7K (that was with Cummins 50% markup), I knew the manager and he agreed to let me source on.  Ended up getting one from CG&J for ~$2500, what a mistake that I've paid the price for.  Our first trip was in Oct 2015, it was cool but I did notice high tranny temps but blamed it on myself for not downshifting to get RPMS up on a long steep grade.  Then started building a house doing most of the work myself, working a consulting gig, COVID>>> so didn't take another trip until 2021 (don't ask).  But the first trip in June in hot weather I saw high temps tranny temps ~230F mostly when stuck in traffic on interstate and/or in the city after pulling off interstate and stuck in traffic.  Made it home but not fun. 

After getting home and parking rig, the very next day I found a small puddle of coolant under radiator, it was seeping on the front side.  Another member who had a CG&J radiator had the same thing happened and had used IRONTITE sealer (ya not the best option) which I did and that solved the seep problem. 

I then contacted CG&J and questioned how they sized the cooler, they couldn't tell me.  They did offer to sell me a supplemental cooler for ~$800 but I declined.  I had read of people using a Derale cooler, which I bought and installed and it worked great UNTIL it didn't.  In 2023 on trip to UT it leaked and I lost 3 gallons of fluid but luckily no apparent damage.  After bypassing the cooler I drove the rig, not temp issues and it seemed to shift properly, no codes.  Called a Allison shop and talked to a tech there and he said I got lucky, and that it was operating correctly with no codes or temps issues he said I was good to go.  I asked if I needed to come in for an oil/filter change, he said not, 3 gallons about 1/2 of the capacity.  But when I got home ~3K miles later I took and oil sample and it came back good.  I GOT LUCKY.

When I got home I contacted Derale, they did warranty the cooler, suggested my installation was at fault but I'm not convinced, the leak near the lower port was not under any weight or stress.  When I removed the hyd hose it hung loose with no stress on the port.  I had it zipped tied up all the way from tranny. 

So ended up going with a different cooler, bought a used one from Visione RV a large salvage yard.  Same cooler used on many rear radiator coaches, very stout built heavier with more cooling capacity due to size.  Paid $300.  I did install a fan with a thermo switch to turn on at ~145F but may be overkill.  Currently on a trip, crossed mountains in MT & WA and temp never went above 170F and usually stays in the 150 F range.

So with all of the above I would have been better off going with a OEM radiator, which are still sold. 

Since this thread started things have progressed with Starlink and I'm considering getting either another Starlink standard Gen 3 or a Starlink Mini with the 50GB roam plan. With either system you can get a standard unlimited plan for $165 per month or a 50GB plan for $50 per month. Both plans and systems work in motion and can be paused so you only pay for the months that you use them.

The advantages of the Mini are it's small size, low power consumption (good for boondocking), no separate router and it works on 120 or 12 volts. The disadvantage is the equipment cost is $599 compared with $349 for the standard system. And while the Mini doesn't produce as fast of speeds I've seem tests where it stills gets over 100mbp down.

Both systems can be mounted flat on the roof but I would want mine to be easily removable in order to reposition when parked under trees.

I know that the initial equipment cost sounds pretty expensive but over the years I've spent more on routers, hot spots, boosters and antennas only to have good service some of the time. In the last couple of years since we've been using Starlink we always have cell service on our inexpensive plan with wifi calling and streaming internet and haven't used any of that other equipment.

When I do the upgrade I'll let you know how well it works.

Jim, keep the trip journal going. 😀 We are planning a similar trip and I can definitely use all the help I can get. 
Actually, I’m a little jealous right now just because I have to winterize the coach today. 

Give a call to Harry Gardner Park in Toutle, Wa., it is on the way up to Mt St Helens.  It was destroyed when the mountain blew, but has been rebuilt and reopened.  I think it is a county park.

Richard

5 hours ago, Lawrence Wade said:

My water pump switches have quit working and coincidentally so has the Tank Test switch.  My research shows that a single "Module" interfaces with the pump switches and the tank test switch AND that the module is located somewhere in the Wet Bay Area & below the floor.  Since this Module is the only common denominator between the two systems I am targeting it as the problem.  Does anyone know the exact location of this Module, I cannot find it?

Lawrence Wade

lawrencewade@earthlnk.net

941-773-8904

@Lawrence Wade

GREAT INFO ABOVE.  Your 2009 DOES NOT WORK THIS WAY.

Water Pump.  See the PRINT.  You do NOT have an Intellitec Controller.  YES, the majority of Monaco's, that are NOT DYNASTY nor the LATER Camelots (2008 and above) DO NOT HAVE ONE EITHER.  They are controlled by the INTELLITEC MPX System...and THEY do NOT have the Water Pump Controller.

Your's is more BASIC.  It only have TWO SWITCHES.  It is like a THREE WAY LIGHT SWITCH.  SO....you HAVE NO CONTROLLER. 

It is BEST to consult the prints....and the NEW TOPIC guidelines ASSUME that you have downloaded the PRINTS and THEN gone through them.

I pulled them.  YES.  This is an UNUSUAL Circuit.  BUT IT ELEMENTARY.  If you are NOT "UP" on circuits.  Google a THREE WAY LIGHT SWITCH CIRCUIT.  That is exactly what you have....

BUT....did you CHECK THE FUSE in the Fuse BOX?  ODDS ARE....FUSE 14 (10 AMP) is BLOWN.  A common occurrence.  Monaco tech SUPPORT told folks when the Water Pump BLOWS or REPEATEDLY BLOWS the fuse...  Increase it to 15 Amps.  This was common in the 2008 and up.  The WIRE size for the circuit is #12.  Even if it as #14, then it would be SAFE to use a 15 Amp fuse.  BUT, since it is #12....THAT is DEFINITELY OK.

My recommendation.  Replace the FUSE.  IF IT BLOWS....then go up to 15 AMP.  BUT STOP THERE.  If there is a 12.5A, that would be the best...but I do NOT know the type or the "SIZE" of your fuses.  You can identify the by the size.  Then look at a chart.  There MAY be a 12.5A...

FWIW, I also pulled the TANK Monitor wiring....BUT NOW that I pulled the HOUSE FUSE Panel....BLOWN FUSE.

If you have NOT downloaded the prints....here they are.....

Let us know.

WATER PUMP CIRCUIT 2009 KNIGHT.pdf 2009 NEPTUNE HOUSE MAIN PANEL 12 VDC.pdf TANK DRAWING 2009 TANK LAYOUT WIRING.pdf

22 hours ago, Jdw12345 said:

I might get scolded for posting this on this thread but, should I guy go to Cummins with the coach and get a copy of the ECM files for the future in case this would happen to anyone else? 

 Sorry if this is inappropriate to post here, just seems somewhat relative for everyone else to think about, I would think that a fair amount of people are following this, maybe I’m late to the party here.

NO SCOLDING....  

The PROCEDURE is SUPPOSED TO BE.  You take in your MH for SERVICE.  They are SUPPOSED (OR USED TO) scan the ECM for the CODES.  They are SUPPOSED to keep that on file.  The LENGTH varies.  Some say....FOREVER...  OK...define that....most marriages do NOT last forever.

BUT, a few years ago, I helped a buddy and got Frank involved.  He had ALWAYS had it serviced by a WELL KNOW Cummins Dealer in Eastern NC.  He lost his ECM in Orlando.  Cummins called the Dealer in NC.  Send up a COPY of the ECM file....we have to REPROGRAM and POPULATE a NEW (he chose Refurbished...but that didn't matter). They pulled up his VIN.  YES, we serviced it within a year.  OMG.  We did NOT or maybe LOST (claimed a system error) his ECM.  So the Orlando dealer told him....WE CAN TRY.  YOU CAN DRIVE IT.  BUT, most or maybe none or maybe ALL of the Monaco ECM Parameters will not be there....we WILL TRY....particularly the CRUISE....as Monaco did that 50 ways from YESTERDAY...

If you read my post.   Frank found or had the FILE.  I was on the phone to the TECH explaining what he needed to do and then when he got the FILE....he started to "REPOPULATE" it. BUT there were some parameters that were NOT readily available.  Tranny INFO, Revs per MILE of the Tires (Specific to GOODYEAR), etc...but HOW THE CRUISE WORKED...as in will the Service Brake Disengage the CRUISE.  The Dynasty DID...my Camelot did NOT...even though the Parameters are the SAME.

THAT is why it is IMPORTANT.

NOW....you do NOT have to SEE the TECH.  The Service Manager or a Service Writer can look this up.  All they NEED is a Flash Drive from you....or they can EMAIL IT.

Should NOT be any charge.

BUT...this was the CUMMINS PROTOCOL.  CUMMINS now, I think controls the dealers even MORE.

If you have had it serviced...then they should email or give you a copy.  Will they CHARGE?  Don't KNOW.  BUT, if you go in for SERVICE....put that on the REQUEST....it takes about 2 minutes to DOWNLOAD IT.  Frank has posted what you need.

Hope this helps....

4 hours ago, Scotty Hutto said:

In my 2006 Dip, it’s on the right side of the wet bay, behind the panel about 3/4 of the way up the wall.  In my coach there’s a black access panel you can remove to get to it without removing the entire wet bay panel. 
 

 

 

That looks like my '05 Ambassador water Bay but sadly I don't have a latching switch I just have two-way switch and it's very annoying sometimes.

4 hours ago, hex_nut said:

Give a call to Harry Gardner Park in Toutle, Wa., it is on the way up to Mt St Helens.  It was destroyed when the mountain blew, but has been rebuilt and reopened.  I think it is a county park.

Richard

When I get close I check, it is a small park, 11 RV sites.  No one in office now.   Can't get in the reservation system.  But it looks like it on the way so I can stop and check.

my control panel in front ac is bad where can I get it rebuild 2000 dynasty with 12000 do therm 

Hi Julie,

I think I know which seal you are talking about, but want to confirm.  Is that the seal that goes on the inside of the flange of the slide and gets compressed when the slide is closed?  Would you look at the other slides and let me know it that same seal is present on the other slides as well.

All four of my slides have that seal. Those seals were supplied by Monaco. So, those seals are not part of the Bal/Accuslide parts list.  The wiper seals that are attached to the coach are Bal/Accuslide seals and have a Bal/Accuslide part number.

Look at the pictures to see if we are talking about the same seal. That is, the flange seal in the pictures and not the wiper seal. I do not have that part number for you, but both of us can look for it, as we have the dimensions for it. We might get lucky with someone else chiming in with a part number.

I bought my rig in late 2008, it came with ZERO, NADA, NO records so didn't have a clue if/when it had been services.

First thing I did when I got it home was to take it to the Cummins shop, the manager had worked for me and said he'd take care of it.  When I picked up he went over everything with me and handed me a packet of info including a Disc with the ECM image on it.   At the time I really didn't pay attention to why I'd need it but I'm glad he did. 

About 3 months ago a IRV2 member messaged me, he also had a 2002 Windsor, and asked if he could get a copy, which I gladly gave him and he was able to get his rig running using the mirror image.

Pay if forward, never know when you'll need help😁

I found this one that is either the one, or very close.

Front Air Conditioning Unit Randomly Shuts off Leaving Thermostat Blank for Zone 2
Tom Cherry 9 hours ago