Monacoers Daily News

Pretty hard to mess up putting 2 batteries in… 2 positive together and 2 negative together callus a small wire to a positive. Turn the headlights on and if they go out when you try to start, your new batteries need charging.

I just replaced my Endeavor's chassis batteries . . . . No pic but in addition to pos-pos and neg-neg jumpers (and the obvious big cables) there's 2 white wire harnesses to neg and 1 (or 2) red wire harnesses to pos.  When you tuck them out of the way it's easy to miss putting one back (I forgot the red wire harness).

I did put a charge on them before trying to start. 

- bob

6 hours ago, bonfield said:

Does anyone have a picture of the connections on the engine batteries 2 batteries.I have installed two new engine batteries and now the just clicks and wont turn over                                  2004 holiday rambler endeavor 40dst

Your manual has the diagram.  Look on page 8-329.  The batteries have to be IN PARALLEL.  NOW, what does your compartment look like.  THAT DEPENDS.  There is NO ANSWER or Picture that covers every MH....  It is BEST to label the cables...and take a picture...

Generically speaking.  The is PROBABLY ONE Positive cable.  It goes to the BACK Battery in the Chassis Bank.  If there were OTHERS, or smaller ones, then they can go on the Positive SIDE...doesn't matter front or rear battery.  They are in parallel as the JUMPER connects the FRONT to the REAR.

BUT what is IMPORTANT...  The JUMPER on the Positive Side must go from the BACK POSITIVE to the FRONT Positive.  ODDS ARE...you "goofed" on the jumpers.

Negative is the SAME.  Again, the LARGER NEGATIVE (and that assumes more than one.  Some have a SECOND....Others do NOT...  Put the LARGE Negative on the REAR Battery Neg terminal.  Then run the Jumper from REAR to FRONT (on the Negative side.

It is BETTER to check the manual.  It is also BETTER to understand the circuit.  A picture of my bank might be totally different....as Monaco had different cabling configurations for different coaches.

BUT, the GENERIC one in your MANUAL is how it should be done. 

You can have MULTIPLE Cables on the Positive SIDE as well as the Negative.  THE JUMPERS MUST ALWAYS BE FROM the SAME Post on the BACK to the SAME Post on the FRONT....one Jumper for NEGATIVE and one Jumper for Positive.

7 hours ago, TomV48 said:

We went with DC to DC to be safe but our traveling partners have 1,000 amps of LiFePo and rely on 800 watts of solar with the old direct alternator charging and have reported no issue in 20,000 miles running that way.   And believe me, we have done a bunch of dry camping on days when our solar was worthless.

We seldom run at night so he doesn't have the complication of charging and running headlights et al.

While I  feel safer with my alternator restricted to the limits of the DC to DC,  I only have 165 L-N alternator and I think his is larger, like yours.

Hi Tom, yes so far all is going very well!

We have been boondocking for the last two weeks in Western NC and the 300ah Epoch battery has been amazing. We can leave the coach all day and no longer have to worry about dead house batteries and a warm refrigerator when we get back!

With the generator running and a 100 amp battery charger on the LiFePo, I’m getting a 30% charge rate per hour. I can go from a nearly depleted battery to a full charge in a little over 3 hrs.

Some have asked so I’m going to test the alternator today with a depleted house battery and no load on the house side to see if the alternator puts more into the battery than the max 32 amps that I saw in a previous test, with a load present. Stay tuned.

Switching over to LiFePo has been the best and easiest upgrade I have made to our coach. I literally just pulled out my 8 FLA house batteries, installed the one 300ah LiFePo, switched my charger profile to “GEL” and switched my solar charger to match my new battery’s charge profile. I ordered a second battery yesterday. 🙂

15 hours ago, Dr4Film said:

Did you check eBay??? There are some listed but there is one in particular that will repair older Dometic 4 and 5 Button Thermostats.

Leece Neville alternator
scott truelove 21 hours ago

The alternator is putting out 24 v   Does it have a built in regulator that can be replaced?   

The other picture i think has been fried. Can it be replaced? I don’t know what it is called   My cell is 8127091132  thank you in advance

Cell phone & Internet Service While Traveling
bill4029 20 hours ago

looking at  all of the discussion. Has anyone tried TravlFi ?  multi  networks with 5G available ?  Has some appeal with a month by month pay option for a not yet full time'er.

2009 KNIGHT. Water Pump Module Location? EDITED. NO WP Module - 3 Way Switch Configuration
horseman 20 hours ago

I have a 2009 monaco knight 41skq and the locking switch was in the upper right hand side of the wet bay behind my water filter. It was not screwed or attached to the wall so it may have been changed previously.

Leece Neville alternator
Ivan K 20 hours ago

The regulator is the part with green sticker in you second picture. A good alternator shop can rebuild the whole thing with good genuine parts.

Leece Neville alternator
Benjamin 20 hours ago

The blue finned aluminum thing is a diode battery isolator.  The alternator output is connected to the center post, the house battery is one end, and the chassis battery is the other end.  That is a DUVAC system.  The alternator has a "remote sense" terminal (that might be labeled "DUVAC") that has to be connected to the chassis battery to control the voltage.  You can run an extra test wire from the remote sense/duvac terminal to the positive terminal of the chassis battery, or the starter terminal, or that diode terminal, or even the big B+ terminal on the alternator, and check the voltage again.  OR, you could use the wire to check the voltage at the remote sense terminal while the alternator is running. 

Where are you reading 24V?  if everything has been reasonably charged, and the engine is running, that diode isolator should have about 15v in the middle, and about 14v to both battery banks.

Cell phone & Internet Service While Traveling
jacwjames 20 hours ago

Where I've been parked the cell phone coverage is spotty, it drops out on a regular basis, yesterday a woman was walking in circles trying to get a signal.

At times, I have enough a signal to barely surf the web, other times it strong enough to pull in streaming channels.  Very odd. 

But the WeBoost is definitely helping.

Air Tank Leak - Front Wet Side
dandick66 19 hours ago

While looking for air leaks, I discovered the wet side of the front tank is leaking at the weld seam.  It’s a little difficult to see in the picture, but you can hear it and feel it with your hand.  
 

I am either going to buy a new one, or get this welded.  I have an email into REV for pricing and availability of a new tank.  I looked in the parts list and did not see it listed.  I’ve done a little bit of web searching and haven’t had success.  I would imagine that Monaco used the same tanks for years.

Has anyone else had this problem?
Is this safe to weld?
Does anyone know of a source for a new one?

 

Air Tank Leak - Front Wet Side
timaz996 19 hours ago

My "guess" would be if you weld it another leak will not be far behind.

Air Tank Leak - Front Wet Side
Walker 17 hours ago

I would use a camera to inspect the inside of the tank.  If it's rusted out, replace it.  If it looks good, I'd weld it up.  I would try to determine the cause of the crack.  

08 HR Scepter BAL Accuslide bulb seal
JulieS 17 hours ago

Thank you! We found one on from Steele Rubber that will work. We only have a problem with that particular slide because the seal didn't sit on the same area the whole way around. It was sitting on the frame in some places and on the sidewall in others. Seemed like a bad application. Does yours sit evenly all around when closed? And assuming it sits on the frame? Thanks for your help.

 

Cell phone & Internet Service While Traveling
Ivan K 16 hours ago

3 hours ago, jacwjames said:

At times, I have enough a signal to barely surf the web, other times it strong enough to pull in streaming channels.  Very odd. 

But the WeBoost is definitely helping.

I used to support wireless providers networks. It's been a long time but the RF principle remains. The tower radios have limited power and with increased traffic their range shrinks and then expands again. They "breathe", it's called. This is what you experience in fringe areas. Weather/humidity and tree leafs etc have seasonal effect too. When I used a booster, I had an app Network Cell Info where I could see the signal strength and location of the serving cell(s) to point my directional antenna if needed. Since then we often roam where there is no signal to boost so it is in a box at home...

DELO oil
birdshill123 16 hours ago

Both walmart and Costco have Dino Delo

 Costco has a good house brand of Dino 15/40

 

08 HR Scepter BAL Accuslide bulb seal
Happycarz 16 hours ago

Mine seals pretty firmly all around the slide. That same seal is used on all four of my slide. 

For some reason I wasn’t observant that in only 2014 I noticed on the outside coach wall, on the rear black vertical piece, there I’m at supposed to be a smooth trim piece that snaps onto the black aluminum extrusion. This is the vertical piece the bulb seal touches when the slide is closed.  I found the piece on the NOCO BAL/Accuslide website, but never ordered one as the bulb seal was sealing with no water intrusion. 
 

 

 

Roof Air Possible problem
birdshill123 15 hours ago

 We normally do not travel much in super hot temps. We  leave Canada just before snowfall and return when snow is gone. A few times we have been in Phoenix in 85 to 90 degree heat. Dash air does lose freon but one can a year brings it back to life. This year I left Canada Sept.4. By South  Dakota I was using the dash air. In New Mexico I was using both the dah air and the front roof ac. No problem keeping up to  85 to 90 degree heat. But arixona called for the front 2 roof air and dash air while travelling. Left Tucson for Mexico on the 10th of September. By 1 pm it was 103 degreees and a super hot Mexican sun. I had all3 roof airs and the dash air running. By 4 pm it was getting hot in the MH. I checked the vents and the front one was  not super cold. The rear roof airs were blowing hot/. Is there some sort of thermal protector for the roof unit?. No shade  in the desert and no clouds.  Whe I started heading west it was later in the day and the sun was unreal. Windshield was hot. I tried the roof units the next day and although I was stationary all was good. Is all of this normal?? Thanks

Slideout adjustment service tech/shop recommendations
mandms59 15 hours ago

8 hours ago, throgmartin said:

The shop in Vegas is called Executive Motorcoach. It is owned by a former Monaco tech - Jeff Gadis.

 

Chris,

Thanks for information/verification.  I was able to find a post by you on FB site discussing slide-out maintenance and adjustments which listed four companies - Talin/Elite/Elkhart/Executive Motorcoach that you felt had exceptional expertise/knowledge of Monaco and sister brand slide-out operation and repairs. 

From the name I was able to google and find a business card with Jeff's name and company name.  I emailed and called number on card; but have not heard anything back this last week.  From what I can tell on internet the last review comments were in 2021.  when I called number (702-588-4468) it went to voicemail but did not mention the company name or Jeff's in the greeting.  I think he may have retired from the business.

Do you happen to know if he has a different number that I was not able to find?

Again thank you for the information/verification on executive Motorcoach/ Jeff Gaddis.

R/ Mark Meyer

 

 

Cell phone & Internet Service While Traveling
Twomed 14 hours ago

When I was relying on Visible a couple of years ago I used an app called PdaNet which helped greatly.  with signal.  Of course you can't get a signal where none exist but I have had about 20mbps with Visible and PdaNet and WeBoost running when I only had an intermittent one bar.  Testing antennae's with kids rig next to us and he had the fancy$ Weboost kind I was alway faster with my $10 10dba cell stick antennae.    

Been on Tmobile Home internet for the last few years and looking at good speeds 50-300mbps consistently.  Have had to hang the Weboost next that device in low signal areas once in awhile too...it helps!

 

 

No power to generator
Frank McElroy 13 hours ago

Have you checked the 125 amp fuse that powers the generator?

Roof Ladder Replace or repair
dbfirefighter 13 hours ago

Just bought this 07 Diplomat SKQ in June.  I bought the RV this way and would probably be okay with not fixing it but the wife wants it done. I got an estimate just to buy a replacement OEM ladder.  Just over a $1,000 with shipping for both upper and lower ladder.  I did not get the lower ladder with the RV so even if I fix it by getting some tubing bent, I still need the lower. The the shipping was approximately $350 and each ladder was about the same. Shipping just the lower would be still be $350 to ship. 

Anyone know of where I can get the exact replacement cheaper or the lower matching ladder?

Any advice.

No power to generator
96 EVO 13 hours ago

Yep, you will get no switch light if that 125A ANL fuse has blown!

Roof Ladder Replace or repair
Ron Shantos 12 hours ago

Since you are close to Lake Tahoe you might check with a boat sales or marina that can bend tubing for a boat Bimini or tower.  The size of the tubing may be different from that of a standard bimini tubing but they can order the correct size and bend it to match your ladder.  Looks like you only need one side.

Just a thought..

Roof Ladder Replace or repair
Tony G. 12 hours ago

If it was me I would remove the broken piece. Measure the whole piece. Buy the aluminum pipe. Take it to a shop that has a pipe bender and have them replicate the good one. You have all the hard to get parts still on there.

Amp Draw from AC's
Venturer 11 hours ago

We just drove from WI to our home in AZ. 2000 miles in 4 1/2 days. Everything was fine till the 4th day. The new engine driven AC compressor failed, so  we were running all three roof AC's. They abruptly quit running and found that the 50 amp breaker had tripped. I reset it and continued. It tripped a second time, so I ran just two of them. On the last short day, the generator would not start either AC units. It would only produce 115-116 volts. Today, plugged into our 50 amp shore power, the front AC runs at 118 volts pulling 14 amps. The middle one is drawing 17 amps @ 117 volts and the rear is pulling 17 amps @ 117 volts. They work as designed. I shut them off, turned off the shore power and started the 12.5 KW generator. The voltage was 118 volts on both legs with no load. After starting the AC's The voltage went up to 120 volts. The front AC drew 16 amps @ 121 volts.The middle AC pulled 17-19 amps @120 volts. The rear pulled 21 amps @120 volts. When I ran both the middle and rear AC together, they pulled 40-44 amps @ 118 volts. At one instance, the amps went to 47 amps. I'm at a loss as to what the problem is when the generator can provide better voltage than the shore power, but draws 30% more amperage. I'm thinking  the transfer switch could be creating resistance, but I'm no electrician. I'm taking the coach back to the shop that installed the engine AC compressor for warranty work. I would like them to address the generator problem, not sure how informed they might be. Any suggestion from the more informed members here will be appreciated. Thanks       

No power to generator
Tom Cherry 10 hours ago

2 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

Have you checked the 125 amp fuse that powers the generator?

If I can expand on Frank's explanation.

There are FOUR BUSSMANN ANL Ignition Proof Fuses in the rear panel. If you order the CHEAPER ONES from Amazon....KEEP your tools handy.  You will HAVE to change them.  They do NOT last.  The OEM is the BUSSMANN ANL Ignition Proof Fuse.  Amazon sometimes has them...and they ARE, if you search, available from on various Supplier.

NOW...I searched in a the Raleigh - Durham area.  There was ONLY ONE Supplier for the ANL's.  It was either NAPA or one of the other well known Auto Parts Supplier.  PERHAP a Car Stereo shop might have them....they put in some heavy amp draw amplifiers and subwoofers.

BUT... ALL ANL "TYPE" Fuses are NOT the same.  I bought one (I had to leave the next day).  Found it on a Sunday.  BUT....it would NOT FIT.  The hole sizes are NOT the SAME.  YES....it said ANL.  But the Bolt holes were NOT correct.  I had to take a hacksaw or a Dremel Tool. The hole in the end was about 1/8" off....as in it needed to be WIDER.  I then cut off the metal between the HOLE and the END of the TAB.  That gave me an ELONGATED SLOT.  Sort of hard to explain....but on each end....there is a HOLE in the fuse mounting tab.  I trimmed (ground) out the metal so that the HOLE turned into a SLOT.  

I had to put a LARGE Washer on TOP of the FUSE tab so that I had MORE surface area.  THAT IS THE EMERGENCY REPAIR.  It worked for 1500 miles....and then the CHEAPER Fuse went KAPOOT.  Fortunately, I had ordered the CORRECT Fuse (mine was the 200AMP...doesn't matter) and had the BUSSMANN.  So, that fixed it.  I carry a SPARE FUSE for every amperage in the panel.  

My advice.  GO BACK and LOOK.  You can, with a good LED flashlight.  You can SEE the fusable link....OR, use your VOM....

OK.....THAT MIGHT NOT BE THE PROBLEM.....SO HERE, yes it HAPPENED TO ME...  The 200 Amp was on the Slide Power...

THEN...THE GENNY WOULD NOT START.  OK....Slide UNDER.  I put Jumper Cables on the terminals.  Cranked it with my car.

BUT....I did NOT have enough voltage.  WHY.  I did a LOT of testing.  HERE IS WHAT HAPPENED on my CAMELOT.  The HOUSE Negative was a HIGH RESISTANCE connection to the GROUND STUD.  My recommendation.  GET UNDER the MH under the Battery BOX.  There are TWO GROUND STUDS behind the box or bay.  ONE is the CHASSIS...  The OTHER is the HOUSE.  If the FUSE is BAD....this ain't gonna work..  BUT, if the FUSE is good.   THEN you CAN get out an AUTOMOTIVE Jumper Cable and JUMPER the HOUSE NEGATIVE to the CHASSIS NEGATIVE.  BINGO....if it STARTS....then you have an ISSUE with the Ground STUDS.  Just because your METER read NO or low VOLTS, the proof is in the CRANKING.  Pull off the GROUND CABLES.  CLEAN the STUDS and the TERMINALS.  Reinstall.

That made all the difference in the world.  That was in 2015.  Have NOT had an issue since then.

OK....NOW unless you have read the posts here....there is a SERIOUS ISSUE with the SLIDE SYSTEM.  YEP...you got PROBLEMS....and it must be fixed.  It is NOT connected to your current problem...but we always post this for 2009 Camelot & Scepter Owner.  Ben's 2008 Scepter is CORRECT.  Monaco PLANNED to add a GENNY SLIDE.  Never got AROUND TO IT...but changed the Circuit Breaker.  BAD....VERY BAD.

Look at the print.  You need to order a 80 Amp Circuit Breaker Switchable with Manual Reset for Boat Trolling Motor Marine ATV Vehicles Stereo Audio Battery Solar System, 12V - 48V DC, Waterproof (80A)

The BRAND is T TOCAS.  I THINK that is the brand that MONACO put in.  THE REASON.  This is the POWER to the Hydraulic System.  It is in the LOWER LEFT CORNER.  The MOTOR for the Lippert Hydraulic Slide is rated at 65 AMPS.  If it gets into a bind or has a high resistance connection....the 150 Amp will let it BURN UP THE MOTOR.  I KNOW....been there.  I had FIGURED out something was wrong and Lippert said.... MONACO GOOFED.  The 2008's had the 80 Amp.  Change it out.

NOW...spend another 15 MINUTES.  Go to the Hydraulic MOTOR.  TIghten the NUTS on the BIG Solenoid.  Remove the CABLES from the MOTOR.  There is a NUT on each STUD.  That NUT will loosen.  What happens is the Brushes are NOT TIGHT to the terminals.  Use a small wrench and SNUG (these are Copper or Brass) don't twist them off.  SNUG is OK.  That then removed the High Resistance connection INSIDE the MOTOR.  Then clean and replace the cables.  TRUST ME....this will FRY the motor.

FINALLY....while you are there.  You HAVE, if it is OEM, the BREAD LOAF Reservoir.  Get under the MH... LOOK UP.  FEEL.  The end of the Reservoir is canerlevered OUT.  NO SUPPORT.  That vibrates and the seal between the Reservoir and the PUMP fails.  UGLY.  Lippert redesigned....and then later changed to a Rectangular tank.  Fabricate a brace or a bracket from some Aluminum ANGLE or something.  Attach it to body or the frame.  SUPPORT the end just dangling there.  Put a couple of thicknesses of HVAC Foam TAPE.  So, it doesn't vibrate.

THAT'S IT.....except, if you have the IOTA 50-R ATS, it was recalled and is a FIRE and Personal Safety ISSUE.  Plenty here....search.  The most popular replacement is the ESCO LPT50BRD....

Good LUCK.  Find a fuse....order the BUSSMANN....  Do the PM on the Ground STUDS....BTW, there is ONE ground Stud upfront.  It provides the GROUND for the Slide and the Generator.  That will pull upwards of 100 Amps.  If the FRONT ground stud is bad....same deal.

YES...this is LONG...but IMPORTANT...

 

 

12V High Current Dist TGC Rev 2..pdf

Roof Air Possible problem
vito.a 10 hours ago

Do you still have the original Penguin roof top A/C units?  They may not be as good as when they were new.  

Regardless, the A/C units pull in air form the coach, cool it, and blow it out the roof vents.  They are designed for a 20-degree temperature drop and when it's very hot it may seem like they are not blowing very cold.  

Amp Draw from AC's
Tom Cherry 10 hours ago

1 hour ago, Venturer said:

We just drove from WI to our home in AZ. 2000 miles in 4 1/2 days. Everything was fine till the 4th day. The new engine driven AC compressor failed, so  we were running all three roof AC's. They abruptly quit running and found that the 50 amp breaker had tripped. I reset it and continued. It tripped a second time, so I ran just two of them. On the last short day, the generator would not start either AC units. It would only produce 115-116 volts. Today, plugged into our 50 amp shore power, the front AC runs at 118 volts pulling 14 amps. The middle one is drawing 17 amps @ 117 volts and the rear is pulling 17 amps @ 117 volts. They work as designed. I shut them off, turned off the shore power and started the 12.5 KW generator. The voltage was 118 volts on both legs with no load. After starting the AC's The voltage went up to 120 volts. The front AC drew 16 amps @ 121 volts.The middle AC pulled 17-19 amps @120 volts. The rear pulled 21 amps @120 volts. When I ran both the middle and rear AC together, they pulled 40-44 amps @ 118 volts. At one instance, the amps went to 47 amps. I'm at a loss as to what the problem is when the generator can provide better voltage than the shore power, but draws 30% more amperage. I'm thinking  the transfer switch could be creating resistance, but I'm no electrician. I'm taking the coach back to the shop that installed the engine AC compressor for warranty work. I would like them to address the generator problem, not sure how informed they might be. Any suggestion from the more informed members here will be appreciated. Thanks       

MANY ANSWERS TO YOUR QUESTIONS...

FIRST... ASSUMING you are a bit of a DIY (not an electrician).  The Front HVAC is an AUTOMOTIVE one.  No SELF RESPECTING GOOD Car or Truck Shop has a CLUE.  The systems are unique.....so I would NOT waste my time...and a LOT of money for someone to work on something that they have NO IDEA of how it works.

HERE MAY BE THE DEAL.

WITH POWER OFF....Genny CB Tripped...as IN OFF.  Cover the SOLAR or disconnect the charging wires to the battery.

Remove the cover from the MAIN PANEL.  Watch a YOUTUBE video on POPPING out or removing a Circuit Breaker.  The 120 VAC breakers are a SNAP IN.  You lift ONE side...the WIRE side....sort of lift it up a 1/4" or so then PUSH and reseat it.  You may see ONE or more of the CB's DROOPING as hanging lower.  That is causing a High Resistance Connection....  THEN use a good sized screwdriver....tighten EVER SCREW in the PANEL  Do the BLACKS on the breakers....the WHITES on the Neutral and the GROUND (Bare).  That is NEEDED and takes no CIRCUIT SKILL.

NEXT...  From what you said.....your compressors are OLD>  They should run around 13 - 16 Amp....while running.  BUT, when they start up....there is an INDUCTIVE (look it up and GOOGLE) AMP SURGE.  There is a Capacitor in every unit.  They OFTEN GO BAD.  The LOGICAL method.  DO THE PM.  Then only TURN ON....ONE....and let it RUN....then bring on another....  and THEN the final one.  FWIW, It is CHEAPER to run the GENNY and Use the ROOFTOP units than to RUN the FRONT HVAC.  You pay more in decreased MPG of the ENGINE....than the small amount of fuel for the GENNY.  Many have tested and calculated...as I did...

OK....If you are seeing a HIGH running AMPS.....then you have to assume the compressor is WARING OUT...as in it has MORE FRICTION.

BUT, if you are using your Aladdin...you need to TURN OFF the INVERTER or the CHARGER.  You can NOT accurately state what the AMPS IS...as the Charger may be kicking in.....so CHARGER OFF.  NO OTHER AC devices plugged in....or RUNNING. NO TV's or such.

THEN....WITH only ONE AC ON... TURN OFF THE OTHER TWO to OFF.  Start up the ONE HVAC.  If you see a surge of say 20 AMPS....and then it settles down....if it is below 17, that is OK.  BUT, if it runs above 17...The COMPRESSOR is failing or is worn out....and needs replacing.  IF you see a really big, quick surge...say above 20 Amps....Purchase a NEW Capacitor and PUT it in.  That will sometimes help. Folks DO use a $350-$400 SOFT START (two Brands....same concept).  BUT, if you buy THREE of them....that $1000 - $1200 would be GONE.  Eventually, a failing or partially worn out Compressor is gonna need replacement.   SO, if you mistakenly THINK that the SOFT START will prevent the reoccurrence on the NEW UNITS.  NOPE... it is for Compressors that are worn and have too much internal friction.  They take a LARGER and LONGER surge of current to start....and then they pull MORE....

That's the deal....stuff you can do.  Changing a Capacitor is simple.  You can SEARCH here and find the VALUES or read the label on yours...

Good Luck....

Switch to Lithium without DC to DC or Li-BIM?
Mocephus 9 hours ago

UPDATE: Follow-up Test

Today, at the request of others on this thread, I tested a depleted house battery (16% SOC) in different scenarios while measuring alternator output at the alternator, charge going into the house battery, alternator temperature, and SOC during the tests.

Chassis batteries voltage was at 13.1V and 13.9V with the engine/alternator running. 

Each test segment is time stamped.

“NO LOAD” House tests means all house lights, fans, TVs , refrigerator, AH 110, etc. were off.

“LOAD HOUSE” means all lights fans, TVs, refrigerator, AH 110, etc. were on.

“LOAD CHASSIS”  means headlights were on hi-beam, radio on and dash ac was on high. 

Here’s the basics:

- ‘05 Signature w DD60 engine

- Leece-Neville 270A alternator

- (1) Epoch 300ah LiFePo battery

- Ambient temp = 68.7 F

- Beginning SOC = 16%

- Engine RPM = 1150

 

3:34 NO LOAD - House On and Inverter On

Temp = 111

Alt = 42A

Bat = 24A

3:40 NO LOAD - House Off and Inverter On

Temp = 122

Alt = 14A

Batt = 1.7A (solar)

3:42 NO LOAD - House on and Inverter Off

Temp = 124

Alt = 45A

Batt = 29A

3:48 NO LOAD - House on and Inverter On

Temp = 133

Alt = 45A

Batt = 28A

3:51 LOAD HOUSE

Temp = 146

Alt = 70A

Batt = 2.5A

3:54 LOAD HOUSE AND CHASSIS

TEMP = 151

Alt = 87A

Batt = 13A

3:58 LOAD HOUSE AND CHASSIS

Temp = 156

Alt = 95A

Batt = 16A

4:05 LOAD HOUSE AND CHASSIS

Temp = 153

Alt = 94A

Batt = 16A

SOC = 20%

4:10 LOAD HOUSE AND CHASSIS + Convection Oven

Temp = 165

Alt = 184A

Batt = -37A

SOC = 20%

4:15 LOAD HOUSE AND CHASSIS (Conv Oven off)

Temp = 170

Alt = 101A

Batt = 36A

SOC = 20%

4:20 LOAD HOUSE AND CHASSIS

Temp = 157

Alt = 90A

Batt = 23A

SOC = 21%

4:25 LOAD HOUSE ONLY

Temp = 150

Alt = 73A

Batt = 14A

SOC = 21%

4:30 NO LOAD

Temp = 142

Alt = 53A

Batt = 34A

SOC = 22%

Observations (some are obvious)…

- The House switch must be turned on in order for charging current to reach the House batteries.

- Having the inverter on or off had little effect on alternator output or battery charge.

- Alternator output increased and decreased with demand.

- Alternator temp increased and decreased with demand.

- Current to House battery varied based on load.

- When the conv oven was turned on, the alternator output ramped way up but did not ramp up enough to cover the full demand, so the House battery had to cover the gap.

Conclusion: For the Leece-Neville 270A alternator, there is no likely scenario in regard to house or chassis load, that will  cause the alternator to become overloaded or damaged.

Some have suggested that the alternator will over-spin and destroy the diodes when the BMS suddenly cuts off the charge once the battery reaches 100% SOC. 

For this battery at least, based on my observations, when the battery starts approaching 100%, the BMS slowly starts reducing the current until it is a mere trickle.

I suppose one could test a near fully depleted House AND Chassis battery but I wasn’t willing to risk damaging my chassis batteries for the sake of a test. If that scenario did present itself, one would have to charge the chassis batteries with an outside power source anyway to get the engine started and in that case, the chassis batteries would likely be near fully charged. 

As a side note I tracked how long it took to get the House battery back to 100% SOC from the 22% SOC at the end of the tests. Using the generator and a 100Acharger plugged into the block heater outlet in the engine bay, the battery was fully charged in 3hrs 10 minutes. 

This setup allowed me to turn on the block heat outlet and the generator from the driver’s seat, without having to go outside and plug in the charger. Dick Bell gave me that idea! Thank you Dick!

Please add any observations and or conclusions you can make from the tests as well! Thanks!

 

 

 

 

 

2004 Endavor; Mixed up cabling on engine batteries. Help. Thanks.
StephenW 9 hours ago

I recently replaced my chassis batteries and made new cable for jumpers and new ends on the other cables.  I noticed the old cable ends were in bad condition so I replaced. 

Amp Draw from AC's
Venturer 9 hours ago

Thanks Tom. I did not turn off the charger and inverter, so I retried the test with them both off and got the same results. Probably because everything was fully charged and all other electrical was off. When on shore power, all three units seem to be working fine. 13-14 amps on the front and 17 amps each on the middle and rear units. From that assume all three are working as designed. The puzzling thing is that the generator carried a slightly higher voltage but a higher amp draw on all of the units, especially the middle and rear. The problem has to be where the generator feeds into the electrical system. Transfer Switch ????. The shop I am taking it to is an RV repair facility and they only work on RV's, mostly motorhomes, so they will certainly know more than me. I was hoping to offer some educated suggestions.   

2008 Monaco Cheetah 38 PDQ For Sale
Paul J A 8 hours ago

2008 Monaco Cheetah 38 PDQ. Caterpillar C-7 350 HP Turbo Diesel, JAKE BRAKE. Allison MH 3000 Transmission. 22K MILES. FOUR Slide. Onan 8HD Generator, 1,269 Hours. HYD. Leveling. Norcold 4 Door Refrigerator/Freezer. TWO Duo-Therm 13.5M BTU Roof AC w/ Heat Pumps.  Washer/Dryer Hook Ups. QUEEN BED.   Atwood Three Burner Range With OVEN.

3rd Owner. Coach Has Been Garaged all it's life in Az. & N. M. NO Clear Coat Peeling, Paint Checking or Delamination. 

Aladdin Jr. System.   Keyless Entry.   Central Vacuum System. THREE Cameras, Left, Right, Rear.

THREE 12v Attic Fans w/ Automatic Controls. Ceiling Fan in Bedroom. 

Exterior Tank Monitor Gauges.

EXTERIOR ENTERTAINMENT CENTER W/ NEW TV. 2024 

Two Atwood Furnaces. Atwood Water Heater. 

Power Carefree Patio & Door Awnings. NEW Cloth and Motor on Patio Awning 2024.

Engine, Chassis, Generator Complete Service 4-2024.

EVERY SEAL, House & Chassis, SHOCK, AIR BAG, Was Inspected on this Coach.

OLD Engine Coolant was drained, Flushed engine, & NEW Coolant . 2024

ALL  NEW Chassis & House Battery's 2024

SIX  NEW Tires  2024

New Carpet in Bedroom  2024.

NEW Theatre Seating in Salon 2024.

NEW Jack Snap Pads  2024.

NEW Windshield  2024.

NEW Bedroom TV  2024.

NEW Front Steering Stabilizer  2024.

NEW Magnum Energy Model ME 2512 Inverter  2024

NEW Queen Mattress 3 Months ago.

NEW Tire Covers  [4]  2024.

NEW Drivers & Passengers Seats  2024.

NEW Water Hose & Sewer Drain Hoses. 2024. 

NEW Blue Ox Tow Bar 7,000Lb. Capacity   2024 

ALL Windows Tinted LIMO BLACK Tint  2024 

ALL Interior & Exterior Lights Changed to LED.  2024 

    There is NO couch behind the Driver. NO Chairs for the Dinette Table. There is NO TV above the Driver. Old was             removed and Not Replaced.

       The TWO Hinges that are on the Storage lid to access the storage area under the Bed are Broken.

EVERYTHING ELSE WORKS IN THE COACH.

********************************NO TRADES. CASH ONLY***************************

Price; $69,500.  Coach is Located in Rockwood, Tn. 

                      414 899-5800----------------ackermanenter@aol.com  

 

Switch to Lithium without DC to DC or Li-BIM?
Ivylog 8 hours ago

Thanks for your detailed test and the results are very similar to mine although I never added a high amp load…85 amps is the most I ever saw which isn’t enough to hurt the alternator. I switched my additional 100A charger to a fixed 14.6V and like your observation, the BMSs cuts the amps to a trickle when they get to 100% SOC.
I would replace the block heater GFI with a standard outlet as I’ve had to reset the GFI several times…even before switching to Lithiums. I added one of these 100A chargers 10-12 years ago to decrease my generator run time and the price was $130. The $139 today is a great deal and cheapen than upgrading to a RC-50L display plus the extra charging amps…the AGM2 setting does a good job of charging Lithiums, especially if your on shore power for many days at a time.

Big screw up today. Forgot to disconnect power. Comments on replacement.
Venturer 8 hours ago

Yep, it can happen to anyone. I took off in the pre dawn hours and after 15 miles, we remembered my cell phone was back home. Traveled back, got the phone and 15 miles later discovered I had been dragging my 50 amp power cord. 😫 I cut off about 15' of the cord and installed a new plug. After replacing it with an oem cord, I added a female end to the takeoff cord and now have a 10' extension when needed. Needless to say before I start out in the morning, my very observant wife asks me " Did you unplugged the cord", among other things. 😗   

Switch to Lithium without DC to DC or Li-BIM?
Mocephus 8 hours ago

37 minutes ago, Ivylog said:

Thanks for your detailed test and the results are very similar to mine although I never added a high amp load…85 amps is the most I ever saw which isn’t enough to hurt the alternator. I switched my additional 100A charger to a fixed 14.6V and like your observation, the BMSs cuts the amps to a trickle when they get to 100% SOC.
I would replace the block heater GFI with a standard outlet as I’ve had to reset the GFI several times…even before switching to Lithiums. I added one of these 100A chargers 10-12 years ago to decrease my generator run time and the price was $130. The $139 today is a great deal and cheapen than upgrading to a RC-50L display plus the extra charging amps…the AGM2 setting does a good job of charging Lithiums, especially if your on shore power for many days at a time.

Thanks Dick. That is the very same charger and price that I purchased a couple weeks ago and have been using. I am very pleased so far…except the cover decal has already come off. 🙂

I ordered a 10’ 10AWG extension cord for the charger to the block heat outlet and it’s handling the load well and barely gets warm. The 14AWG extension cord I used when testing it in my garage wasn’t happy at all! If I start tripping the GFI then I’ll replace it as you suggested. Hopefully that won’t happen!

Does the AGM2 setting on your inverter/charger have a “balancing” stage? I’ve read that can damage a lithium because of its high voltage stage. The only setting on my inverter that doesn’t do the balancing is the “GEL” profile.

 

Move tv to over entry door?
folivier 7 hours ago

Has anyone mounted a tv over the entry door?  On my 30' the tv is in the middle cabinet over the dashboard. Not a comfortable place to watch tv from.  Over the entry door would put the tv visible from the sofa and driver's seat. 

If I move it that'll give me a large storage area where the tv is now. Will just need to put a matching door on it.

2005 Diplomat source for radiator
WCourand 6 hours ago

Try Ice box radiators in Oregon.  They have had many different radiators and hydraulic coolers in stock for our Monaco's.  I had a leak in my Hydraulic cooler and they overnight one to me in Needles California.  Arrived less than 24 hours after my break down.  It was installed and we were on our way 26 hours after our breakdown.

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