Monacoers Daily News

If that gash is in fiberglass and there is no puncturing, you don't need to do anything.

Will require sanding, body filler, sanding, cleaning, masking, priming, painting, clear coat.

the Gutter can be banged out with body tools.  I did same this summer backing up and clocked my gutter.  Not quite as mangled as yours, but fixed in about an hour.  No one knows now 🙂

Yes, lots to consider. I’ve done a few CBA’s – cost/benefit analysis myself.

I do 5-6 boondock trips a year – about 4-5 nights each so my concern is power consumption.

My other concern is ease of installation - I’m not going to tackle it. I like the idea of a cut and paste install.  I do have a heater underneath the Norcold.

OTH for the dollars saved on the Samsung, I could buy a few hundred watts of solar and (maybe) have the power I need. I've installed solar before so it's not a challenge for me to do myself.

Definitely need to push a pencil on this one. Happily, my Norcold still works very well.. for now.

My first step is to find a reason(s) not to install a Norcold 12v or some reasons to consider it.  Maybe I'll consider a 12v conversion but then I'll still have only 12 CF of storage. The DW will appreciate the  extra room.

BTW: the cheapest diesel here is ARCO R95 at $4.35/gal and my inverter is a 1500.

so I performed a update on my I phone (17ish) and now I can no longer access this site on my phone. it states I need to access the administrator.

Our site hosting provider had a major system crash today, and the site only came back online late this evening (eastern time).  If the problem persists tomorrow with your phone please email me.  I sent you and email so you would have my address.  I'll take it up with our provider.

I doubt the battery temp sensor is the cause for your fried batteries.  

It is just a nice to have and not mandatory.  

You need to read your inverter manual and make sure it's set up properly for the type of batteries you have.  

Might take an hour on each.  I'd try buffing the fiberglass, it will easily be 90% better with an hours work, maybe five minutes?  The gutter is thin aluminum, if you're handy with a hammer and a couple blocks of wood, it will be NEARLY invisible with a little work.  If you're not handy, get somebody to straighten it out if it matters to you, don't end up like this:  

On 10/13/2024 at 6:08 AM, Mocephus said:

Hi Tom, yes so far all is going very well!

We have been boondocking for the last two weeks in Western NC and the 300ah Epoch battery has been amazing. We can leave the coach all day and no longer have to worry about dead house batteries and a warm refrigerator when we get back!

With the generator running and a 100 amp battery charger on the LiFePo, I’m getting a 30% charge rate per hour. I can go from a nearly depleted battery to a full charge in a little over 3 hrs.

Some have asked so I’m going to test the alternator today with a depleted house battery and no load on the house side to see if the alternator puts more into the battery than the max 32 amps that I saw in a previous test, with a load present. Stay tuned.

Switching over to LiFePo has been the best and easiest upgrade I have made to our coach. I literally just pulled out my 8 FLA house batteries, installed the one 300ah LiFePo, switched my charger profile to “GEL” and switched my solar charger to match my new battery’s charge profile. I ordered a second battery yesterday. 🙂

 

 

Great to hear another happy LiFePo RVer.

On 7/9/2024 at 12:46 PM, AlanC2 said:

The Zone 2 (front) air conditioning in our 2002 Windsor will randomly shut down (without reaching the set temperature) after running for anywhere from 20 minutes to 3.5 hours. Zone 1 has will still have all functions available. Zone 2 in the thermostat, is blank and there are no functions available. I can get it to work again by turning off the master switch at the bottom of the thermostat for a while, then back on. All functions return to zone 2 for a while. Years ago, in the winter, the propane heat for Zone 2 failed and I tracked it down to a bad AC control board in the front unit.  At that time, I also replaced the 5 button thermostat with a spare that had come with the motorhome. It's too hot out now to swap out the control boards between the two air conditioning units to test, so I've just ordered a new control board, and a Micro-Air thermostat to replace the old 5 button one in case it's a thermostat problem.

When this first happened, we were in a state park with a 30 amp hookup, and I thought maybe as it was a low voltage situation and the EMS kicking in, as I've had that happen before in a state park when the voltage dropped to 90VAC. This time, it also happened twice while running the generator to power zone 2 air conditioning while driving. 

I have two questions.

1. Since the associated propane furnace won't function with a bad AC power control board in the heat pump unit on the roof, will a bad board in the furnace impact air conditioning operation?

2. Should I be checking something else?

Thanks in advance!

AlanC2

02 Windsor PST

Everybody wants to get all technical about these kinds of things but our bedroom AC was cutting out randomly.  Along with cleaning the coils externally, I opened the fan vent above my head and found that the insulators and baffles had moved around so that it was recirculating air internally without circulating it out in to the room.  This was causing the unit to shut down; causing the unit to freeze up; and was causing the unit to drip water on me in my sleep at night.  We clean the coils on the outside and straightened out the baffling on the inside and that thing is unlike new.    Incorrect air circulation is apparently hard on the whole system

About 2.5 years ago My original fridge was found to have an ammonia leak during annual.maint. I wanted a 12v replacement and ordered the Norcold artic elite you are looking at. I had the shop that did my annual.maintmpirnit in for ~5k. They needed to remove the dining room slide window, raise it with a forklift and damaged broke the door latching mech. Got it fixed under warrantee. The fridge needs to vent into the rig, so I needed to close up the upper and lower vents. Not the most satisfactory install. 

But getting to the unit. It needs 10awg wires for the 12v power. My 2008 Camelot had them.  The unit works well, but Maybe due to the install the freezer iced up in a month. I took the lower door out of the fridge to let me defrost it better (NO AUTO Defrost on this unit) it came out like a huge drawer by a lever on the slides. Ended up finding the slides were damaged (install again, don't know). Turns out you are not supposed to remove the bottom bin. Got new slide kit under warrantee.

Short advice is pass on this fridge. It cools great, sips power and looks cool with blue led accents. The downsides are  Manual defrost only and you are not supposed to remove the door ( so you just wait for the ice to melt above the bin. Norcold said it should need defrosting maybe once or twice a year, I needed to do it once a month! Now YMMV, I think my rails were messed up on install and the freezer door might not seal as well as it should (hence the defrost every month).

Would I buy this again... NO.  5k fridge with no auto defrost!  Inadequate rails for the bottom bin (in my opinion) leading to Norcold telling you to not remove the bin. That make defrost a multi hour process with the freezer door open. In my rig that blocks the hall to the bath/bedroom.

I have a good dose of buyers remorse. If the unit had auto defrost and stronger slides. I still probably would buy it again. 5k is too much to spend for this unit.

Hope it helps!