Ivan K

Good to see "they" exist.

Mine is in right away under the keypad and parking brake inside the side compartment, beside my seat.

Agree but also know that the $1200 for a genuine Cummins piece is a ripoff in comparison. Unless you run a HD truck shop, hardly justifiable. Add a $89 cable for my 6 pin style connector that just isn't included. Plus you still need an expensive yearly software license if you go that way. No wonder people go for the comparable cheaper stuff from eBay or Amazon that works for personal use. Having said that, I snatched a used genuine piece for much cheaper.

I don't know why the electric gauges would be a problem, most newer OTR trucks use them and the ignition is supposed to be ON for the air brake test. Otherwise you would not even hear the buzzer. And your diagram shows the transducers too. Other than knowing that the tanks are full prior to looking for a leak, you don't need them for this activity. Just my opinion...

If you can't, it isn't anything more than a rewritten text from CDL test manual and in some states you have to demonstrate it to the examiner to get an appropriate DL for a large motorhome.

I think you'll find that you'll have no need for the extender but since you already have it, why not. My Asus router covers 80' shop even with one of the 3 antenna ports hooked to a flat directional antenna on the outside wall, feeding our house and porch area more than 100' away.

I would say shut it off, have someone stand on the brake while you go around and listen. With this sort of a leak from the braking system you should be able to locate the area to investigate closer? Maybe listen around the brake pedal area first.

Yeah, that is a problem. The Asus router I have been using for probably at least couple of years is AC1900. Few years old now so there would likely be a newer version.

Extender is just that, a repeater to get you further out. What you need is a router with USB modem connection. I use an Asus Cellspot router in the shop that also shoots it towards a repeater in the house. While on the road, it is repeated byNanoStation antenna and router setup in the RV, without actual cable connection to mobley. On second thought, I don't know your netgear but maybe setting it up as access point will do what you want.

Consider the gauge of those wires before tearing stuff up to find the other end, they may not even be useable for what you want. Ours came with one panel on the roof and it went through the roof fridge vent cover. Unless yours is in a slide... I'll be pulling new cables soon, they're just not enough for what we got now.

I have no idea about the parameters but regarding the rear end, you might have a build sheet with its make, serial number and ratio. Otherwise there should be a placard stitch welded on the axle, typically passenger back side of it. If not either, they should be able to figure it out the old way, by jacking up one side of the axle and counting driveshaft revolutions for a full wheel rotation. Old school that works because it is an open rear end. Divide by two. Of course, someone will have similar coach and might know. I know mine but that would not help you. Good luck!

That all makes sense but you still got your dash to come alive, I bet. He does not, or did not. Maybe one day we'll find out how he got it fixed.

Your salesman solenoid may look like this. I got two of them . Notice how they are bypassed by the black cable. You should have power to at least one of the big post on the side of it, against good schassis ground. If you measure 12V on both of the posts, the solenoid still works. If it has power on one post but not the other, either your switch up front is flipped or the solenoid is bad. If you have no power on either one, check the main big battery switch, might be OFF or bad. Assuming your house batteries are connected and somewhat good. Under normal conditions, the small purple wire on front of the solenoid would be grounded through the front battery cutoff switch (salesman switch). PS: I have a solenoid like that in the front run bay as well but that one is controlled by ignition switch so, just in case, don't confuse them and do not bypass that one😎

When I used to race, people would put special ingredients in the race fuel to make exhaust smell like bubble gum or whatever, wonder what this would do 😄

Our signatures are 2 years apart but our rope lights are definitely 12V. I had a loose connection where the bedroom rope connects to switch wiring with a plastic push connector where it comes out of the ceiling. Do you have wiring charts? I just looked up my Interior Bulb Chart and it shows the same part number as yours. I know for fact that we have 12V ropes and they are fused the rear bedroom 12V fuse box. Since you checked the fuses, you may want to look at their wire connections as well.

The only practical way is to solder in a correct copper T ($3) with a port and you must know where the leak is and that it is fixed. It isn't hard at all with correct AC repair tools, and it takes a few of them. Saddle rubber seals will not hold for ever. If you just fill it without sniffing out the leak, you are just gaining some time, maybe none. Since the system will be empty by that time, there is no doubt how much freon to put in. If you can't do it yourself, may not be worth the expense.

Yes, exactly what I have been doing. The external filter is at the lowest point in the rear plumbing so the tank has to be pumped out first. It gives me few days of heat in the shop going through an oil burner, so it does not go to total waste. Then I drop the filter into a bucket and get an other maybe couple of gallons from it and the lines. I heard someone just dropped the filter without thinking and made a huge mess... For someone with the same system, the filter may come with a couple of different seals and you have to pick the correct one to match the housing.

Agree, peace of mind is a great thing, knowing that we have done what we can to keep the machine going and in shape. When the time comes and if I find a deal on transynd or equivalent, that would be the time for me to consider the 10 gallon switch. Not just the expense but sometimes I am just hesitant to change things that work. Kind of like synthetic oil finding leaks that conventional oil did not know about type of things. Oil seals getting used to different, maybe better additives etc. In time, they will come with even newer and more expensive recommendations, no doubt in my mind. There's nothing wrong with keeping up with progress.

Well, here you go, my real life experience. I have no doubt that transynd is superior in some unknown to me ways in this application (other than the viscosity with temp) but I let it go through an other cycle. Myself, I would be more concerned with the fan motors than a steering box.. I stop here as not to jinx it.

Yes, came with TRW and AW46, even on the sticker. Not sure why it isn't recommended but the TRW already lasted 180K+. Same for both fan motors. The filter pressure never moved into a high pressure area and when I changed the fluid, it looked just like the new one. Would like to know why not use it other than the ambient temperature.

Yeah, 10 gals to the last drop.. One reason I stayed with the original AW46 and saved transynd for the Allison. The other is that I have no intentions to ever be anywhere close to even near zero temps...

From everything I can read from Larry's description, he only gets any kind of voltages while the alternator is running, like if the house batteries were totally out of the picture (dead, disconnected, whatever). As I understand, the generator never started. The alternator feeds the inverter which then is producing 89V on his meter. If true, then ~89V may be ok because no cheap voltmeter can read modified sine correctly. Mine reads 102v and I know that it is OK. His generator won't start because the alternator alone may not produce enough starting amps, along with feeding the inverter etc. Batteries, if even connected, won't charge because there is no AC for the charger function. Alternator should charge them but not a good idea if totally dead. The inverter will shut down while generator starting because the alternator can't keep the minimum voltage while all its amperage goes to the starter. Wishes circle. Now, why the boost switch won't help start the generator, if the above scenario holds true, there is no power to activate the boost solenoid, unless done with the engine running... all of this based on not enough information and a lot of assumptions. Why there is no AC from the pedestal is an other issue with possible solutions already listed. For instance running an airconditioner does not even require presence of the inverter so that makes me question that suspicion. At least in my configuration. Should have added that it still needs a battery power tho, which there isn't, but should be when the engine runs... and that could prove the main ATS, cable, breakers and pedestal. But there is no substitution for voltage reading on bothe ends of the system. Something the tech may have already done to come to his conclusion.

And then there is the 10 gallon aluminum box reservoir with a big external spin-on filter like in our Signature.

That is funny, I always worked in engineering, for large telecommunications corporations in 3 countries and always tinkered with cars after work. In preparation for eventual retirement, we built a good size car shop and a small house in the country. 6 or so years ago I had enough of sitting behind a computer and opened my shop for car repair/restoration business, when not on the road which is about half of the time lately. Now I hate to even open my laptop, only for tax time and use an iPad for anything else...

Just yesterday I changed oil in our ISM 500 which is same as M11. With the long filter I used 10.5 gal to the top of dipstick marking, as always. Never need to add any more. I use Valvoline Premium Blue and the Blackstone oil test alway has come back great, at 184k miles now. BTW, if you register with AITA, you can get it at NAPA for $11.99, best I could find these days.