Ivan K

There's are at least 2 different configurations. I have an external filter and cubical aluminum tank that I can relate to. Others may have internal filter(s) and round tank. Which is it?

There you go, sounds a little too simplistic and I know it is past the grey zone so I leave it at that. Thanks for the reply. Just my curiosity...

Thank you, my point is that the Diamont paint line by BASF seems very stable with aging, other people reported the same observation so I would not worry about using the Monaco paint codes. Couple of the colors had some metallic in it and it came out great, it was mixed right, by a local English Color dealer.

Just curious, what do you mean by "the perimeter of the valve" ? Is it the sealing portion of the valve. Wonder why/if anyone has not come up with a EGR delete kit for it, dirty but cheaper fix as on the smaller truck engines...

True, paint fades but the BASF Diamont was a perfect match for all 4 colors even after all those years. This is besides the point but just to show how I know... Good excuse to get rid of all the rock chips... The truck was rear ended in opposite direction and launched in front of us. I was looking for a place to have it fixed while still on the trip because we were far from home but the wait times were just unbelievable last year, at the end I ordered all the replacement parts, repaired and painted it in my shop after completing the 7 months long trip. Lightning in the pic is a combination of daylight from the side and warm led lights from the front but it is a match.

Jody, I spoke with a couple of nice ladies in parts department of Veurinks. Sorry, there was a typo previously. I was looking for a part and they had all kinds of info on my VIN, including paint codes and window sales sticker. That was just over a year ago. 616.965.9633

Call Veurings, they will likely be able to email it to you and more, just like they did for me.

Since you get power to the ignition switch (you say accessory position works), there is possibly a misplaced connection at the switch or a bad connection, broken wire etc. I would check that again. Once you get the dash to light up, it may just all work again.

Our front cabinets have foam and vinyl padding underneath and that's what I did to the shortened TV Box as well. That covered up any imperfections in the new joint as I wrapped the bottom in it and if I ever hit my head again, it should not be so painful anymore.

So you do not even get some dash warning lights like ABS or oil pressure when key is in ON position?

PEX line ratings vary with temperature. Since your hot water line will have the same pressure as the incoming (post regulator) pressure, it should be kept well below 100 PSI. (Max 100 PSI at 180 degrees F). The factory regulator was more of a restrictor than anything and I dumped it for an adjustable and keep it at 55 PSI but frankly I have not been to a park where the pressure was even close, unlike others. It also makes filling the fresh water tank quite a bit faster now. I hated holding people up behind me as we do not have a gravity fill and 100 gals takes a while... We should also take into account what is the rating for icemaker line, washer line and other possibilities which I am not aware of but I believe the max acceptable or allowed pressure for household is 80 PSI.

Jim, I was in similar situation, could not cut the sides back because the ceiling vinyl does not go behind it and any decent size tv would interfere with the other cabinet doors so I cut the sides quite a few inches shorter and reattached the bottom. No head bumping anymore and it works fine. It is 32" Samsung tv. Similar now in the bedroom. The location works great for me, I like to be horizontal on the passenger side sofa when watching it😃. We don't spent much daytime in it anyway when parked and if there is something we just have to see, there is a larger outside tv for that.

Exactly what I have done with our factory solar system, isolated it from the house and added separate system just for the house. Works great for our needs. Our house batteries are still newish and good but lithium may be next, in time. By then you guys will have it all sorted out 😎

I would think that you would hear at least some vibrations when it is running, with an open faucet and maybe locate it that way? It is gonna be feeding the filters from the tank somewhere...

I would also check the voltage drop at batteries while cranking it. Load test would be nice to prove them, not just voltage reading while idle. That would give better idea where to look next. Big drop or just a little or no drop? Starter solenoid, ground, who knows at this point. Don't know about a travel alarm, maybe just a green travel indicator? Either way, the lights may be going out due to a low voltage while cranking or due to the ingnition switch turning them momentarily off for the start just like some accessories.

Awesome. I would also disconnect and isolate the purple wire on side of the solenoid so the solenoid does not eat up on your battery if the switch up front gets turned on while not hooked up to AC power.

It would appear that what they call a battery cutoff relay IS the salesman solenoid, so what have you actually replaced/ jumped? Since I read it as referring to two different things? Other than that there is nothing but the kill switch, straight cables an a breaker before it goes inside the coach's distribution box.

I think Jerry's problem right now is locating the salesman solenoid and he got schematics so it should be obvious from there. I have no idea where his is located but someone does. It will make more sense once he finds it. I also bypassed mine when they started to be intermittent when accidentally turned off but mainly to save power as we do a lot of boondocking. They were not latching solenoids.

The salesman switch is only switching ground so it will not have positive lead. The solenoid at the back should have permanent positive when the main battery kill switch is on. Or wherever your salesman solenoid is. I have two of them supplying different circuits of the coach so it may be different but the purple wire is ground lead either way.

Or cut and install a sheet of lightweight plastic sheet on top to raise it flush with the corners before sealing it up so the wiper can work better in those areas. Should not be that hard. Maybe I'll do that when I have to work on the topper or seals in the hopefully distant future...

It's not the hoses that get gummed up, and you won't be able to suck it out, too late now anyway. But you should be ok if it won't leak out dry and use it once a while. Just watch it.

John, how do you turn the AC heat on? We have a small 12v switch in the kitchen right beside the diesel switch and that switch activates a relay to connect AC from the breaker to the AH. I can hear the relay click when I turn it on. You show a big AC switch above, can't tell from the pic where it is located but is it the only way to turn the electric heat on? No 12v DC switch to turn it on remotely? If so, maybe you don't have that relay, can't tell. Then you would be looking for a bad connection, maybe in a junction box somewhere. I am not familiar with your LED indicator box but suppose it is just for that, indications and not a real function.

Totally different coach but I have an AC breaker specifically for AH in the bedroom breaker panel. You should have one somewhere too, it takes some serious power for the heating element(s).

Any chance you have seen where on the coil the leak was? I suspect the steel hold down at the last twist of the coil might cause future problem but that would be an easy fix once the unit is out... certainly much cheaper than the mentioned 10k cost. In hindsight, I should have isolated it when it was out, oh well, time will tell.

I don't know your sensor but does it have 2 leads by a chance? Like oil pressure sensors, one might be for the gauge with variable resistance and one for the dumb light. If reversed, it would cause problematic readings.