Ivan K

The external sensor looks like this on ours, under all the road dirt. Single wire slide on connector, just like the good old temp sensors.

Hutchinson has been around for ever, making all kinds of runflat inserts. All humvees had them too but they were rubber. Rettroband is Australian and I believe was first available early last year. Like everything RV, the markup must be huge.

My dash temp gauge on Allison 4060 is fed from a sensor on output line to the cooler. Towards front of vehicle, just above the the pan. The pad indicates temperature measured by internal sender, inside the transmission. not accessible externally. If you don't have the external sensor, then everything might be controlled by the internal one. But if you do and both show low temp, then there is something else going on. Hopefully at least the cold measurement through dipstick shows ok?

Or a set of 4 for less than that, custom made by Hutchinson Industries to exactly fit your specific wheel in the USA, used by military and emergency vehicles for years... and no spider tool needed. Bought a used wheel, sent it to them to manufacture the insert. As a side benefit, now I have a complete spare wheel and tire ready to go.

Just a guess but how's your hydraulic fluid? Foaming could cause vibrations but you would feel it even stationary.

Ours looks like this and still works and we use it all the time, just a few minutes to heat up and/or filtered cold water. It runs off the inverted power so I need to remember to turn it off when boondocking or the AGS will kick in. We find it very useful. Just got back from 6k miles of social distancing so cleaning is in order 😎

It looks very nice and clean like if it came from factory. Personal preference but for me the height of typical OEM-like installation is too high for a camping chair. Try it first. Ours is behind the basement door and installation cost near nothing. Wiring was already in place, courtesy of Monaco. This way our neighbors across the country can't so readily complain about our news station preferences. Tailgating will of coarse be a totally different situation with a larger audience.

I use low pressure air to push the oil out of the bucket through a hose. Couple of holes in the screw on cap and it's totally effortless. Buying in bulk might pay for the pump however. 5 gal was just right for the big Rockwell axle and oil bath hubs, delivered to the door by Amazon...

That is an unusual configuration since pumps are usually better at pushing than pulling. Can you siphon some water to get it flowing and then connect back to the pump inlet to get the pump primed? From that point it should work until the pump gets dry again.

I have defogged 4 of our most used/slammed windows so I know that it is easy to replace one, once you have the glass. Ours just needed polishing and resealing so I did not have to take it anywhere. Once you pull the frame out of the wall, you'll see small screws holding it all together. Pry it apart a bit to free the glass from its rubber seal and pull it out. Then you can take it wherever they can match, cut and temper. Sealing the panes is very doable unless you want argon or whatever gas in it but it is also probably cheaper to have it done by them since it is a single small piece and you don't pay for the excess material and tools. I've done ours more than 2 years ago and still holding fine.

Edward, If REV won't help you, call Veurings. A very nice lady there offered to send me our codes when looking for some other parts. I already had the codes but she also volunteered to sent me window sticker copy for our VIN, which I did not have. Always a great friendly service.

Are these BASF codes? EnglishColor mixed 4 of my colors to a perfect match just based on the codes using actual BASF paint. There is a minimum they can mix, certainly more than what would fit into a touch up pen.

If you call balance masters, they will tell you exactly what measurements you need, I think his name was Scott and he made it very easy for me. SA-302M fit our front axle with disk brake. They even have little fins to cool the brake, therefore each piece of the set is side specific.

HWH site has a lot of documentation including the synchronization. I suspect that you have total of 3 cylinders also, since our coaches are only a year apart. The short equalizing cylinder (in fuel tank bay) started to leak shortly after the long ram, we were on a 8k miles trip, probably because it had to move to its extreme end of travel. Besides the gen slide which is also fed from the same reservoir. I think to remember that I did not have to do any major bleeding, just run it in and out few times. But it's been a couple of years... HWH site is your friend.

Yeah, top of the passenger side bay. It's a long cylinder and hopefully you have enough room to slide it out without much trouble.

Or get balance masters and forget about it for ever...

Kerry, you may have the removal already figured out but if not and if your cylinder mounts look like mine in the pics, I can give you pointers. First, there is no hose to leak inside the square tube but a steel line not likely to leak. Cylinder leak is way more likely. To remove the cylinder, remove the nut underneath at least partially extended slide, removed the two bolts or nuts at the mounting plate in the bay, disconnect the lines at the plate and slide it out of the bay. (This may sound easier than it is depending on clearance, I had to remove a bay door) I had a leaky cylinder seal and a local hydraulic shop got it done the same day for a fraction of new price.

If you really want to play with it, you can set it up to work with your phone hotspot while plugged into the home tv. If you know how to cast a YouTube video to the firestick, test it out. You should see the firestick as an available device in the YouTube screen. Move the firestick to the MH and see if it still shows up in YouTube. If it does and you still have no picture, it is your tv setup or port.

Your hotspot does not matter at this point, you will still get the initial screen. Are you using the same USB power supply in both locations? If so, then it's your TVs input port issue.

I would try a different hdmi port and check the power supply by plugging it into a phone or tablet. Lack of an internet connection will not stop it from displaying the initial screen on tv.

Just for curiosity, I don't have any of them but the base price differences before options in 2006 were staggering to me.

I bet you know that there is a USB cable length limitation and you may not find a simple working 50' cable. Hopefully you'll find a better fix and won't need repeaters. / I know this is obvious but I have two of the same plugs up front for the ISM and for Allison that could be confused for each other...

I don't know about the Humphrey valve but would think it needs to relieve the opposite pressure somehow. Have you looked at MAC 45A-AA2-DFEA-1BA as a possibility? It is used in some Monaco/HR as OEM. ~$65 Often times the valve can be taken apart and cleaned unless the coil is burned. I have done it on a tag valve years ago and still works. If you have moisture in the line, it won't last. Aluminum does not like it. The leak stops at about 60 PSI because the pressure protection valve kicks in.

I'll give it my best guess since our coaches are of different vintage. I have at least 2 pressure sensors, one up front on the outside of firewall (as I nderstand, this might be the one you mentioned) and an other one down on the parking brake switch. The light and buzzer should quit at around 90PSI. Our buzzer is behind the gauge cluster just sitting on top of the firewall shelf. If your aux compressor is from HWH, it is powered directly from the control box through an inline fuse on the power lead right by the compressor. In my case it is a glass fuse in the old style twist holder. I had travel lite go out and auto leveling light come on and it was caused by a bad momentary switch on the touch pad. Many different problems are caused by the cable connector on back of the touch pad being loose or the other side of the cable at the controller. I had both happen to me. If you have a bad momentary switch on the touchpad, they are easy to replace if you have any sort of soldering skills. I replaced all of them already since some were funky. I have up and down button on leveling system but only use it to get through obstacles at a croll. Would not use it at speed, could be catastrophic for the ujoints and who knows what else. Hope some of this will help.

That sound like a potentially cheaper fix than brake hardware issue. You or someone has to identify the actual location and source of the air escape sound, external or internal. At least you seem to know which corner is effected. Might also help to know if you hear it for the duration of brake activation or just when the pedal is going down. BTW, disk brakes can have slack adjusters too, at least ours do, front and rear.