Ivan K

Is the noise present only with the wheels turning or even when stationary? That might point to an air escape issue or a worn/stuck hardware.

This is no different from an automotive paint repair. The biggest problem is that we have no idea how thick the clear coat is and there is a chance to polish through it to the base and then you have a real problem. I would not expect the thickness to be consistent all around the bus either. I use 3M products in 3 steps (from automotive paint dealer), depends how much or little of the clear you have to take out to level the surface to your satisfaction, knowing there is a chance of going too deep. You may want to start with the final fine grit and see if you can live with it. You need to expect that anything with any grit will dull the shine so you still need to polish it afterwards... Like Bob said, dual action only and variable speed. Make sure it is really set for dual action since there is usually a mechanism to switch it on or off. Never use just the edge of the buffer wheel and never start it before it is flat against the surface. Never polish sharp edges, tape them off or you WILL burn through them. YouTube is probably full of videos to help out. Alternatively you can try vibrating polishers, they are cheap, I think safe but not very effective for repairs. I use the ones that look like a big grinder.

I never understood the point of a front bra on a vehicle, if that is what you are referring to. Is it to keep it nice for the next guy and ugly while it's yours? When home, I work on customer cars, usually high end or classic cars that need to look good and have yet to see a bra that would not leave a mark after a while. Not many use them but if asked to fix it, I'll do it all the way from primer up, to fill the spots. Reclearing by itself will not make the low spots invisible if they're too deep to polish out. After that, the bra usually goes into the trash bin... just my opinion.

Same as our 2000. Good to know it exists. Could be a parts list addition.

I just though I would throw this info in here in case someone is looking for a true 4K (8M CMOS) camera at a discount. It expires today. I have had the camera for a couple of months and like it. You need to understand that true 4K recording takes a lot of memory and processing power so it's not for everyone. I use it with 512GB memory card. Rear camera for an other $29.

Haha, careful what you wish for, Mike. It comes as a 3-pack. I just went to test it with just a wet finger and it still works after more than a year since installed.

Mike, it runs on 9v battery. What may look to you like a plug is the actual sensor. The white part of it is to keep it standing vertically on a floor surface and is removable if not needed for different applications. It is pretty sensitive, it goes off if I stand it on a piece of wet paper.

We have always been with dish at home since the 90's and when we got the coach, with traveler dish on the roof, we just take the living room dual DVR receiver with us. We don't care for local channels tho, that's what internet is for, for us anyway.

I use an other type of moisture detector in the house and under toilet vacuum breaker and sink in the coach. Already paid for itself when vacuum breaker in the wall started to give up. No name but works great with the remote wired sensor "strategically" placed.

I got similar lights from ebay a couple of years ago super cheap it to try. They were at only couple of dimes each so I took a chance. Anyway, they work fine with the dimmer, with only hardly noticeable flicker at the lowest setting which we don't use anyway. My point is, you will likely have to shorten the legs and remove the plastic spacer to get them centered. They are not easy to insert and you will likely break some of the pins from the board. Account for it. This is why I only replaced the ones we use most... here and there I replace some more but it is a PITA. Maybe I try to file the shortened pins a little next time, just not exited about it. To help with not breaking the legs, I put a drop of epoxy over the connections and it helps some.

This parking brake sensor issue would effect our air leveling system just as hydraulic so it is a useful information for anyone.

I can't help with a recommendation since our rig never was in any shops but has anyone told you to manually downshift when going into a longer uphill? While you might have a real cooling issue, running at higher (but safe) rpm will circulate the coolant faster. Works for me just fine.

Hi Jim, since your piping should be the same or similar to ours and since you confirm that the vent pipes are clear as you have probably done by running water from a hose down the vents without them filling back up, I would suspect the external septic system. IFthe tank vents are in fact clear, I don't really understand how the external faucet would have any impact. Maybe be just a coincidence? Yes, the toilet would supply the displacement air while open but it would not be necessary with a clear vent pipe. I would turn my attention to the septic system. Good luck with this crappy situation!

I suspect that you are looking for this part that in the picture. Unless you need the whole thing, I would do just as John said and use an aluminum tape from HW store. You will need to recalibrate the controller either way and that's the tricky part...

I suppose your park brake switch works. Don't know if your compartment door switches are in play for the gen slide like they would be for a slideout? Of course testing for power at the motor would be your definitive test.

Is your propane tank behind the door that can't be locked? If so, ours also can't be locked and I always thought it was to make it accessible in an emergency.

I don't know if your tv's USB port can play straight video signal from your laptop but there are USB to HDMI adaptors that should work. I haven't used a laptop since I retired but used to have an adapter for hdmi port and it worked fine.

I think I would first try to figure out why house battery drops along with chassis batteries while starting. Maybe you use the boost function or have the solenoid or isolator malfunctioning? Once I understand that part, battery test (at the batteries) would be in order. Either the readings are wrong because of bad connections or the alternator can't keep up with bad batteries. BTW, the regulator is replaceable at top rear of the L-N alternator but I would not jump to conclusions until I know what's going on with the batteries. I don't know your coach but starting the engine would not normally drain a house bank unless you want to. The batteries could be weak and what you see after charging may just be a surface charge.

Seems that they learned from the mobley rollout. If the timeout is really based on GPS position, that would be a tough one for a stationary use. GPS frequency is just between two LTE bands so even if it worked with the GPS signal somehow blocked, it'll be hard to do without blocking the LTE data stream as well. If the position is calculated from the cell signal, it'll be near impossible as it is calculated from signal delays to sites around you, which is going to be constant when stationary. Unless someone comes with a software hack to disable the timeout, assuming the timeout actually happens in the unit and not at the service providers equipment...

If fish tape is not a solution and if the bundle is loose enough to fit an other wire or two, I would see if I can use one of the existing wires to hook and tape the new cable and a string (or an extra wire if feasible) to it at the destination side, pull them back and then use the string to pull the existing wire back to where it was. Hope it makes sense...

Loren, the frictions are glued to the backing plates, there are no rivets or anything else mechanical to keep them attached. The originals were the same. Honestly, it did not even cross my mind to grease the backing plates, I do it on passenger cars and trucks but these are just so massive and tight with spring mechanism to hold them in the cast grooves and Meritor manual does not call for it either. The diagonal movement is supposed to be checked to be no more than 0.015 each direction so hardly any movement. BTW, the pads weigh more than 20lbs per axle.

Mission accomplished. New rotor, pads and seals installed. This is some back breaking big boys stuff. Besides that, very doable with proper tools. Here are the part numbers for this specific Rockwell drive axle model with disk brakes. Rear seal National #370003A Pads # KIT15625PM Rotor # 3218-K-167 Outer bearing cone Timken 590 + cup Inner bearing cone Timken 594a +cup

Thanks for the detail, Woody. We use mobley with a Nanostation repeater all the time on the road and at home and happy with it when there is any signal. Sounds like you found a good alternative option for just few bucks more.

Woody, can you elaborate how Harman Spark will have a better signal than the old mobley? Just wondering since it looks like just an other obd2 dongle as far as 4g reception goes. Or maybe I misread it and you don't have the mobley. Either way, I hope it works for you but really don't see how it can have better data reception than your phone.

Thanks Mike, according to Meritor and based on a model number that luckily was still on a plate still attached to the housing, the rotor number is 3218K167. I did check the website you mentioned but then got it locally today for less, when including shipping cost to TX. NAPA next day pickup with truckers discount $322+T... I figured that way I have a chance to return it if the part# was wrong. I am getting pads from Van Horn, when they arrive with ground shipping, almost half price compared to local source. May take a week to get them from NJ but there's never shortage of other things to do in the meantime. Tomorrow I get a chance to practice axle removal as you described earlier, funny how timely it was as I never planned on it at that time 😀