Ivan K

Thanks Loren, I called Rockwell/Meritor today and they were eventually able to identify the part number for me. The only local place I could find with it in stock is NAPA but with my AITA discount it works out to be not much worse than elsewhere plus shipping and wait. That thing is like 70lbs. Yeah, the rotor is toast, cracked at the mounting flange, not the friction surface. Someone dropped an extra washer where it wasn't supposed to be, between the hub and the flange on one lug... I am a second owner and seriously doubt it was ever replaced before my time so I suspect it was like that from the factory. The caliper and sliders/bushings look fine so I think I just leave them, it all moves fine. Just a new hub seal. Yeah, well over 100k on it tho. When I'm done, I'll send the #s to Frank. Thanks for your reply.

I don't know how you feel about getting into the guts of the controller but often a part like a relay can be cheaply sourced and replaced. I have seen relay pins unsoldering themselves from the board when the contacts spark and burn, like in the AH controller for instance. Given that all the headlight power goes through that one relay in your case, it might be a possibility.

Best I could do, don't have much light in this corner of the shop. It is the big blue finned box at the left. You may not have it since it is considered an old technology.

Don't know if you might have a battery isolator in the rear but if you do, I would check for 0 volts at the center post with engine off to confirm that it isn't back feeding the alternator.

Anyone knows of a good/preferred source for Meritor ADB1560 brake pads and rotor? I'll call Meritor tomorrow to try to identify the disk part number unless someone already knows what it is. Not in our parts list yet. Got a couple of hits for the pads but nothing locally to DFW area yet. I have it already apart so driving it to a repair shop is not a good option plus I want to do it myself, seeing how someone messed the disk up, likely on initial install. Thanks.

Wifi camera/phone with thermometer in its view does it for us. Not that we use it much at all because the dogs are always with us. There is hardly ever a phone signal on the trails we take so it is of limited use for us.

One thing to consider, for me, is that many dash cams have an autosave and protect feature to retain current file on impact. In case one forgets or is unable to stop it from being eventually overwritten after a mishap. There are sensitivity settings to prevent saving every bump in the road. Some have batteries and some have capacitors with enough juice to save the active file in case of a catastrophic power cutoff. Capacitor is supposed to be safer in hot conditions where the camera is often mounted but needs to have an external power source for normal operation. Details details... don't know if any GoPro can do that.

Mine does the same thing and always has so I considered it normal. If it was equalizing, it would say that on the display, I believe.

There are so many choices with pretty much the same nice features but the ones I like are GPS data recording and an active hdmi output so that I can put it on the front TV if we have a family traveling with us on occasion so they can see what I see. Next one will have wifi connectivity too. I use an old iPhone with a camera app to monitor the interior and/or dogs while we are away sometimes.

Just a note about the VIP headlamp influence, and maybe Jim can verify it with the same coach as yours. The VIP can turn off low beams when pushed in (or broken) but has no impact or any connection to high beams, not in my 2000 implementation. Depending on the result it may or may not be eliminated as a potential suspect.

When you say "lever", do you mean the touch button on top of the smart wheel or the turn signal lever/dimmer? One more thing, if you have a remote for your door lock and if it used to flash the lights, does it still do that? That system should be bypassing your light switch and the low/high beam selector lever and should give an additional pointer. It is strange that you do not have low nor high beams because they are pretty much independent with separate relays and fuses (breakers in my case). The only common points that I can see is the main light switch, low/high selector switch and a power bus feeding the fuses/breakers and possibly a ground connection at the lights and relays. If you can hear/feel the high beam relays click, I would go and check for power on the relay's hot side and the corresponding bus. If the relays don't click, I would try to confirm power at the headlight switch again and out of the switch through the low/high selector lever to the relays. You may not even have a low beam relay so that would point back to the switch and selector. All my headlight relays and breakers are in the front bay and the bus is fed from RRB. But like I said, the remote control test and steering wheel flash button would bypass the switch and the selector. I don't know your coach so things could be different in some ways...

An other thought, if you can flash the headlights from your Smart wheel (left top button on mine), that would also confirm ground presence at the bulb without going under the bus...at least that's how it works on ours.

Can you check at the bulb connector? Maybe you have positive 12v but no ground going to them? Could be, since it appears that both low and high beams don't work and they would be on different relays.

My paint codes were included with all the documentation for installed appliances in the coach. But if not there, here may be be an option - About a year ago I called Veurinks RV in search of some collision repair parts and while talking to a nice lady on the other side, she offered to send me paint codes for my specific coach VIN. I did not need it but obviously she had an access to it. Worth a try if Monaco does not help you out. I had the 4 colors mixed at local English Color in TX for a great match.

Tom, if you have 2 solenoids controlled by the salesman switch, one of them may be on its way out and the switch is still good. Our coach has 2 of them and as many others, I have bypassed them both when an intermittent problem started. Each one controls different parts of the 12v system and that might explain why only front of the coach was effected. They might look similar to this, the front switch provides ground to the coils through a purple wire (that I have disconnected after the "double bypass") at the rear right panel.

Sounds like you got it figured out, great pictures too.

That sounds like a quite extreme measure, do you suspect that the air dryer did not do its job? I never got any water from the wet tank when drained. Even if one of the check valves was stuck partially open, could it cause both leak downs? Getting both stuck at the same time sounds weird, especially in the top tank's wet side that could be probably considered a 'second stage' wet tank. I think, if I wanted to verify the check valves, I would just use a gauge on the dry halves and regulated pressure drop on the wet side port and then maybe the other way around. If the break pedal did not have a leak, there are still quite a few smaller lines up front to the gauge, park break, step slider, horn, vacuum gen and who knows what else you might have there. Some of them should not leak below ~60psi. I know you know that. Personally, I would not even worry about an overnight leak down, as long as my air leveling holds pressure. But I get it, if you want to make it perfect.. BTW, I can't believe how clean your tanks and hoses are after those years.

Mike, different configuration but my 5/8" green and red from respective tanks are going forward to brake pedal. That would be one common place for leaks.

Richard, glad I could help.

Just in case you don't have schematics of the plumbing and wiring, here is a picture of mine, I would expect them to be similar. There is one single fuse involved but if your fan works, it should not be your problem.

Hmm, I don't know why you think that there is a T, there is none in my installation. Straight line from the generator to reservoir and an other line from reservoir to the complex system of vacuum solenoids upstairs behind a side cover by my left knee. Notice the output line changes from a rubber hose to a thin nylon line going up. But if you have no vacuum at the reservoir, I would not even dig into the solenoids, these are hard to access and a bit complex to figure out which is which. On an other note, I already replaced 2 of the solenoids over the years. The red line with a push connector at the bottom of the generator is the high pressure line.

The vacuum line from reservoir will go to a set of vacuum switches/solenoid, likely at your left hand under the shifter pad. From there through the usual vacuum hoses to individual actuators. Inside the black box is a vacuum pressure switch and an air valve to open the pressurized air until enough vacuum is reached. If you have no vacuum at all, disconnect the pressure line and check for air coming out from your tanks, you have to have at least 60psi or more in the tanks. The two wires are ground and positive from your fan switch and control the air valve through vacuum switch. It's been a while since I had black box open but I thought it was pretty simple in there.

I wonder why do they or why would they pull the shaft apart? It is totally unnecesary and I kept mine in one piece to take it out. It is a heavy succer but still. The ujoints stay in the shaft and I don't think it matters if the tranny or diff yoke have turned? They certainly will be out of position after towing. I also doubt they care about getting the cups in the same place they came from.

For sake of clarity, I got under it one more time and here is a pic of the transmission output yoke. The ujoint caps are pressed into it. It is all nasty from all the grease slinging around but it should give an understanding of the difference from a slip yoke. The differential side is the same thing, pressed in the same way.

Bob, I just happen to have pulled the shaft today so here is a pic of it and the puller. This is for 1610 BP ujoints, part 5-279x and the like. There is no slip yoke that would go into the transmission, at least not with the big ones like 4000 series Allison. No ujoint straps, these have to be pulled/pressed out. Not much fun under the bus.