Ivan K

Mike, that is a lot of great information, thanks so much. I know I have an open rear end (the bus, that is) since I can turn the jacked up wheel and shaft so your note is very useful and the video helps to get the idea big time. I don't see the dowels but I suppose they are to center the axle. I am actually preparing to check on the ujoints today since I could not push grease through a couple of cups just few days ago.

Jim, instead of the balancing weights that they recommend to you and did for me the first time with new tires, I eventually went with balance masters and never worry about it again. Anyway, the spin balance in my area was $30 per wheel and the stick-on weights were still pretty stuck when I removed them after ~30k miles so it must have been a matter of cleaning the rim before application. Just my experience...

That is a great information, Mike. I do carry the ujoint puller for our 1610 bearing plates, just in case but never crossed my mind that pulling the axles was possibly a better option. I guess I'm too much used to cars with c-clips... I'll definitely look into fabricating/getting the covers. Is removing the axles just a matter of taking out the nuts locking it into the hub an pulling them out? Is it possible that someone might insist on pulling just one axle and let the spider gears go nuts? Any precautions needed that you know of? Thanks.

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They sell a number of configurations, depends what you want as far as functionality. I was looking at their Garnet 709 system @$179 and the 709 panel only @$87 because I don't need a pump switch on either one The best price I found was at rvupgrade . com, for a 3 tank + LPG and battery monitor. You can pay a lot more for one with a data bus, alarm or blue tooth.

Yes, I absolutely agree that starting the descent in low gear is necessary if you need to go real slow. Just need to watch the RPM as well.

My Jake kicks it into 4th gear and stays there, if I want to keep the RPM below 2000, I have to keep stabbing the brakes over 50 mph. Ben is right about most semis just passing me on the way down. Must be ok with manual shift, obviously. Going south from Flagstaff is a long descent and I have seen trucks with red hot brakes and one with a wheel on fire taking an exit few miles after he passed me. Stabbing the brakes for a short time to slow down is what they teach for CDL air brake test that is mandatory in TX.

Thanks Mel and Gary, that makes sense with that type of ujoint but still wonder if they would remove the ujoint with caps that have to be pressed out like the ones that I have with Allison 4060, no straps there and the caps are not going out without the puller, like in the picture, for instance. That's not an easy task with the access we have.

This is out of curiosity, I was always wondering how does a towing company remove the driveshaft for towing our coaches. Do they remove it all the way out or just disconnect at the axle and strap out of the way? Maybe slide the slip joint out? Probably depends on the company. Also, in case of big ujoints with bolted in caps like mine, how do they handle that? The ujoints are usually pretty much impossible to remove without the "Tiger" style tool. Maybe they carry it, maybe not. Or do they remove it all the way with the flange, don't know if that is even possible at the differential side? I know a low boy trailer is the way to go but still would like to know if anyone had this experience and saw them do it. Thanks.

Jim, I agree with your approach, if I had to use something like that on our engines, then this is a good option as not to decrease the clearance any more. Like you said though, I would miss the magnetic plug, always like to see it clean first thing I take it out. Good to hear from you!

I have not even considered it on our ISM where the oil pan plug is well below the body lines and along with the exhaust cross pipe in front of it is already the lowest point in that area. Just a tiny bit higher than the "defensive brace" below bellhousing. I'd much rather scrape the steel plug if it ever came to it... the only viable possibility for me was to install the valve into a side plug on the pan and drain majority of the oil that way before opening the drain plug. Just too much trouble when disposable gloves do the job for me and, IMO, the underbelly is already pretty exposed to road hazard, like tire chunks that can get bounced around, as it is. I can imagine the ISX and big CATs would be similar.

I use their price locator. Once you subscribe, you'll have access to it. They also publish daily price list showing the actual discounts numbers for each state and station.

Don't know about differences between ISL and ISM configurations but I had similar issue just before the alternator failed. If your ground checked out, maybe you would want to watch the alternators charging performance. The tach is wired to the stator terminal at the back of our alternator. Something to look into, if similar.

Awesome, thanks for taking the group to 21st century!