Ivylog

Well, the good news is , yours is easy to get to…. mine is next to the transmission. Doesn’t sound like you’re doing anything wrong with the installation.

My Navigator has a On/Off switch for it on the left console.

I bought one of the below to have as a spare 18 months ago… comes and goes on EBay but currently listed for $110 which is what I paid.

Pretty sure it’s aluminum…shouldn’t be that hard to repaint.

Found 3 2004 Dynasties for that price or less… even a 06.

Not sure larger wires are going to help as the heat (resistance) is at the contacts. My guess is that over time, like 10 years, the contacts develop some corrosion and start to heat up which accelerates the issue. I recently replaced my headlight bulbs with LED… haven’t driven with them yet and didn’t measure the reduced amps they should draw. I’m not planning on adding the relays I bought on a dedicated circuit as the lower amps and annual removal of the J12 plug (several times) should, hopefully, solve the problem.

Sounds like a 1st world order problem.

Instead of going to the back of the motorhome to lock the bay doors at night, I open the door and press the lock button on the keypad and then shut the door and use the deadbolt to lock it as it’s not locked otherwise. Guess the OP‘s keypad at the door doesn’t work because that’s how I locj/unlock my bay doors without going to the back of the motorhome to unlock them.

Pretty sure (actually positive) with the door open it’s not going to lock when you lock the bay doors…. the two pins in the jam are not contacting the door.

Like the above I put multiple 18” long 6X6s under the rails for the hitch and engine at the back of the motorhome. when getting under the rear.

Timely post as I just ordered the same COB strips but my concern is how hot do they run? A year ago I bought some G4 Cob bulbs to replace the halogen ceiling bulbs and I was not impressed with them. Under the yellow covering was nothing but a bunch of small rectangular chips that ran very hot and one actually got so hot it melted the solder connection for the pins. John, can you IR temp the strips that you installed to see how hot they are running?

If you are in a rural area…farming, I would find a repair shop and see if they would weld on it in place assuming you can get a rod to the crack. After leaning the coach so no diesel is on that side and gassing it like Ken suggested, I would weld on it in place.

Starting at 12.4 (assuming the meter is accurate) is on the low side…I would check the voltage on either side of the BigBoy when hooked to shore power with it hot to the touch/engaged…voltage should be the same. Cleaning the BigBoy’s contacts isn’t that hard. Unfortunately you cannot equalize AGMs…how old are the 8Ds? You should be able to go 24+ hours (before needing to recharge) with that many AH even with the AquaHot running. The refer is using 10A and TVs and other electronics (even if off) can draw another 4-5A so 18 is unfortunately normal. I had almost 1.0V difference between battery voltages and meter (meter is accurate) when drawing 100+ amps (0.4 V at 25amps). By tightening every connection I could find and cleaning the ones at the batteries I cut those reading in half. Changed my cut off voltage to 11.8 because it would jump up to 12.2 without the load.

Back when Monaco would fix one item for free at a rally, you could leave the door locked (not the deadbolt) as one of 5 keys would unlock it let the repair person in.

Unless it’s a small bike you run the risk of overloading your rear 20K axle. What is your rear axle weight? Maybe start a new thread with your axle weights and bike weight.

I would back off the adjusting screw 45 degrees … mark so you can go back if no Improvement.

Thicker than the Red and Black?

A 07 should have a white plug with 5 wires… prewired for a brake controller. Hopefully it’s near the left side of the steering column as Richard posted above. Wires are R, W, Blue, Black & yellow/black and has 66 on the plug.

You can push the steps in from the outside with the engine off and it takes 2 people… not to push but one inside to change the position of the step switch once it’s in and before you open the door. Pressure washing the ball bearings slides and oiling will help IF the bearings are still in the tracks…one of mine was missing the ball bearings. Finally got around to replacing the bad slide and here is my rebuild: https://www.irv2.com/forums/f115/replacing-the-slide-on-my-08-navigator-steps-509795.html

Hydraulic reservoir

I would build up 109+ psi before releasing the brakes and se if they still do not turn. Both tires not turning because of the shoes rusting to the drums is possible but not likely. I would watch the arms that should move when someone else releases the parking brakes (on level ground)… if they move then both shoes are rusted to the drums. Time to chock the wheels, put blocks under the hitch (not the receiver), and hit the metal parts of the shoes with a punch with the brakes released.

Actually you have 4… the basement one is on an adjustable Tstat in the ceiling of the water bay.

I use EBay as a cross reference source and usually the best price if not need as fast as Amazon will get it to you.

To begin with I didn’t put a 4440 on because it was only 10 teeth instead of 11 but finally figured out the gear is off-center in the hole and it was the correct starter for my ISX. Bought it off eBay from DB electric and it’s probably a better price than what you were quoted. I assume you have a ISM and getting the top boat out was the hardest part when I changed to a Denso because of the flex in a long extension to get to the bolt. The Densowiill start it with just one battery where the Delco had a hard time with three batteries.