Ivylog

I lowered the battery track in my 04 Dynasty so I could add a second rack doubling my AGN AHs that lasted 10 years. To begin with (4 years) I only had the sorry 2012 before adding additional charging. More AH isn’t going to hurt anything other than taking longer to recharge.

I was afraid you had a 07 engine with regeneration. Found the following that says code 1966 will shut the engine down. Looks like it was in regen and the extra heat of climbing over temped the exhaust sensor shutting down the engine. Usually you have to keep the rpms up for the regen to work. First time I’ve heard of to much heat not being good. Sounds like a one time event where the sun and the moon aligned. https://www.blog-teknisi.com/2018/10/spn-3241-fmi-0-fault-code-1966.html?m=1

It’s likely in the ceiling of the compartment in front of the slide.

Good question although I would think it would derate the engine allowing it to cool down instead of killing it which would raise the water temperature. When on a long climb it’s better to manually downshift and keep the rpms around 1800 for better cooling.

Won’t hurt anything to go with more amp hours but the 2012 inverter/charger is a POS as it will not charge 100 A. That rating is that 130 votes so the best I ever saw out of one is 70 A because on the generator it charges even fewer amps than shore power. I added an additional 100 amp charger to reduce my generator run time when Boondocking.

Finding the synchronizing cylinder is’t going to help you as there’s nothing to be seen. You can equalize the synchronizing cylinder by holding the switch on for 3 to 5 seconds after the slide stops moving in both directions. Yes, this is contrary to what you would think he would do with a hydraulic system. I would start by holding the switch in the in position for five seconds and then see if it will go out on its own. If it won’t go out on its own, then have someone push on the end that is’t moving to get the slide to go out and then once out, keep holding the switch on for 3 to 5 seconds. it’s a good idea to hold the switch on longer than necessary about every 10 time you put the slide in or out. PS: I had a 04 Diamond 4 Dynasty.

I wouldn’t want anyone to know I’d won a big lottery so I’d keep what I have. Not really a issue as my odds of winning are only slightly lower since I do not buy any tickets.

I spent a fair amount of time decreasing the losses between my batteries and the inverter, had close to 0.8 V under high load…150 amps. This helped the generator starting and on occasion I still have to use the boost switch. Had thought about adding a separate battery for the generator with a large $10 diode as the isolator… 50 amps for charging. At this point I’ve put this project on the shelf.

While my airplane has a single 24V battery, never seen a 24V car/truck starting battery. What’s the voltage across the lugs on the batteries?

I have not had good luck with the LED strips… many chips stop working in a couple hundred hours. I have a light fixture over the sink with three of 18” fluorescent in it plus another four fluorescent elsewhere. Now that they have some age on them I'm replacing a bulb every couple months so decided to change one over to LED using 48 SMD 5050 LED Panels. Drilled the four pop rivets out to remove the guts of the Fluorescent. There were two ridges that holds the metal cover over these guts. By finding a small enough wire I was able to slide the wire into these notches making for a neat way to hold the wires that power the LED panels. I put four of the LED panels in (peal and stick after cleaning alum surface) and used the existing switch and 12v wires. I would say four LED panels put out the same amount of light as the two 15W bulbs. While I had the cover off the fixture, I drilled a hole under each switch in the translucent plastic panels so I can turn each on/off without taking the cover off. This will let me use just the new LEDs (while boondocking) or one or both of the fluorescent. Sorry... No pictures but sliding the new wires into the notches and putting the four LED panels where the guts came from made for a neat and simple DIY project. I would space the four panels evenly over the 18" starting with one at each end.

Trash in the valve lets oil by. Try cycling the slide several time to move the trash (often Teflon tape) somewhere else.

Bob, my educated guess is your drain hose doesn’t have a plug in its end… hot air goes up it when traveling. I resisted going residential because of boondocking and spent way to much money and time on keeping my 1200 going.. even a Amish cooling unit didn’t help all that much. Going residential was the BEST MOD of the many I have done. By adding 2 more batteries and a 100A charger, my generator time REDUCED from 2 hours to slightly more than 1 hour/day. The 15 amps has to be when the ice maker is harvesting the ice…the heater is on as 1 amp is all the compressor draws when running 40% of the time. I’ve done several KW checks and they are in the 1.1-1.3 KW/day range on a 21 cuft Whirlpool and a 20 Jenn Aire… 16 cents/day. Like the pictures above my 21 Whirlpool came in the driver’s side window off my forklift. It was almost a perfect fit in the 1209 hole… ended up 1/2” to tall so I still had to lower the floor 3/4”, saving the large drawer underneath. Counter depth units will fit through the door but it’s a tight fit requiring several strong people to get it in. Some remove the passenger seat although we didn’t putting a Samsung in a 2002 Signature.

I would recommend buying the ARP controller if you have a NoCold 1200. It’s better at controlling and preventing fires: https://www.arprv.com/index-amp.php

Twisted wires do help to reject outside interference. Pretty sure, unlike 4 wire phone cables, the AC control cables reverse the wires, end to end.

“Work or starve.” You can’t buy votes if you make them work.

What size tires and how many lugs?

I would just add one on the outside.

I ASSUME they are all the same… 1/2” pipe thread. Will only sell one/person and if enough interest will buy more now that I have an account.. Not looking to make money or go into business, but AH’s prices are absurd. How much is one on Amazon?

Bought 2 extra float switches…$25 each plus shipping. Made in the UK. Paid $150 for a metal one before finding this source.

“I can't really find anyone who has been residential for a few years who mostly boondock.” Pretty sure I posted ^^^ that In the summer we do and have been residential for 10 years. Generator run time before going residential was 2 hours but by adding 1000W of solar and an additional 100A charger it’s down to 1 hour with a residential refrigerator.

Yes, that’s the solar pre wiring and since you do not have a solar panel… only 2 wires in the block, you do not have a controller. The other ends of those cables will be hidden in the ceiling somewhere… try finding them below the refrigerator and mine were near the inverter.

Son-in-law had it… simple plug in meter and similar on EBay for $24.

A 21 is not counter depth (will not come in the door) so took out the drivers window (fairly easy) and slid it in off a forklift. I took the 1200 out the window by myself (didn’t remove the seat and left the doors on) and the DW helped me get the 21 in… that was 10 years ago in our 04 Dynasty which is still in the family and no problems with it. The 08 Nav came with a 20 Jenn Air residential and a PSW inverter. Put a KW meter on it and it uses 1.2-1.4 KW/day, slightly more than the Whirlpool but within the margin of error. I did add a DIY 1000W of solar ($1200 with a 80A mppt controller) but only use it in the summer so I figure it’s a 30+ years payback. Still have to run the generator some and added a 100A charger… parking in the shade so we do not need AC is more important than maximizing the solar.

Like Bob *^^ we do a lot of dry camping in the summer and I bought into a residential isn’t suited for off the grid camping. I spent way too much money on my NoCold, even a Amish cooling unit which helped but not in hot weather with extra fans. Finally figure out a modern refrigerator draws 1 amp and runs less than 50% of the time…costs 16-18 cents/day to run. Thought I’d found a 21 cuft Whirlpool that would fit perfectly in the 1200 hole …ended up being 1/2” to tall. Without a doubt, the BEST MOD EVER and 2 batteries will run it 30+ hours. Before going residential I had to run the generator 2 hours/day to keep my 600AH of batteries up. By adding 2 more batteries and a $160, 100amp charger my generator time is less than 1.5 hours with the residential when boondocking. I powered it off the block heater outlet beside the engine.

Did you find the panel Rob referenced? Use a straightened paper clip to push the reset button on this board.