Ivylog

The Fass lift pump conversion comes from the PU truck’s with a VP44 injection pump which requires a external continuous operating lift pump to supply the fuel. On the Cummins ISC, ISL & ISX the lift pump only runs for 30 seconds on startup. Once the engine starts, the internal gear pump supplies the necessary fuel for the injection pump unlike the PU truck engines. IMHO a Fass lift pump on a MH is a transfer of money to Fass and is unnecessary. Yes, the older Cummins lift pump tended to leak with the new fuel and finding a replacement $7 gasket has gotten harder. Fass does claim the pump & filters will get the air out of the fuel… here again a problem I didn’t know we had.

Didn’t know a 06 Windsor has the multiplex system. I would be looking for a 12V fuse in the bathroom fuse block like Rich posted above. Over the last 15 years I’ve bought a lot of different LED lights/bulbs. I’ve had good luck out of most of them…still use some 120V ones that are 15 years old (small round chips) but they put out half the amount of light. I’ve had terrible luck out of ever strip I’ve bought… 12V or 120V with multiple chips stop working in a couple hundred hours or less. Bought an expensive 120V rope light that had multiple 1’ sections stop working in 6 months. The amps savings converting fluorescent to led is approx 1/2 while replacing halogen is 1/10th the amps. I would only us voltage regulated LED panels when converting.

Grey panel’s #2 & #6 breakers are GFI breakers… you do not need to add a GFI outlet to the basement.

No, there shouldn’t be that big of a difference in voltages…4-5 volts in the 115V range is OK. Your rig will automatically shut off the power when it gets below 108V to protect mainly the AC compressors…will reset after a minute +/-. Took me awhile to figure out it was the ice maker harvesting the ice (10 amp draw) at a rally on generator power that was shutting the power off. Yes it could be loose connections in the transfer switch… my understanding of what burns the IOTA up, but easy enough to check. Pull your 50A plug out enough that you can measure the voltage on both side lugs and compare to the readings inside.

I can see the rectangular base of the “wind sensor” (can’t pontificate on what it is) for the Girard awning under all the Dicor.

Turn the charger on… button on your inverter/charger remote.

If your Dip was made by Navastar the controller should be on the left wall of the front run box. Try cleaning the plug at the bottom of the steering column.

Would help to know what brand of awnings???

“Their chairs made it.” Yes, the passenger seat made it but the driver’s didn’t…what’s left of it is the white remains of it behind the passenger seat in the picture below. The majority of the impact was on the driver’s side taking out the entire wall on that side.

It appears the R front tire blew sending the rig up the hill with the L front hitting the trees. The house kept going partially separating from the chassis which bounced back, turning 150 degrees bring the house with it as it separated completely. I don’t understand how the R rear wheel is full of dirt although the grass is disturbed (above the spotlight on the cop car) just before it hit the trees???

I would not rely on just a quick connect on a propane line… add a ball valve before it.

130 psi is not high pressure… I would weld it.

Removed the oven/ cooktop and installed a induction cooktop plus storage below. Bought a single burner propane portable that we use inside hooked to the unused rubber hose … valve and a type C quick connect. Type C because I use my airline to supply propane to a portable campfire and the burner if using outside off the propane outlet in the fuel bay. Yes, I blow the air hose out before putting air in a tire.

Only the second time I’ve seen where the house separated from the chassis on a Monaco/Beaver, but it’s a aluminum house bolted to the chassis on rigs below a Dynasty… S-10 chassis are all steel.

No, GassBuddy is a APP that finds stations based on the filters you add. You can pay with cash or any credit card but the Sam's MasterCard is the best I've found for fuel...5% back at any station other than Costco. Each February I get a Email that I can get my cash rewards at a Sam's Club...half mile away in Florida and they count out the hundred dollar bills.

It's a trucking fuel discount card that diesel RVers can use. Most of the time GasBuddy's prices are better (usually at Sam's) and I can use a credit card that gives me 5% back... TSD debits your bank account. If you are a truck stop only person, it's worth getting but in 2 years I've used it maybe 5 times (3 times in Oakley ^^^). https://www.google.com/search?q=tsd+logistics&oq=tsd+logistics&aqs=chrome..69i57j46i175i199i512j0i433i512j0i512l3j46i175i199i512j0i512l2j0i433i512.12751j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 Another option is BudFlap that I signed up for but have not used mainly because I'm not paying with my 5% back credit card... 14 cents additional off today. With MudFlap you get a discount code before you get to the station (mostly truck stops) and give that code to the person who then turns on the pump at the lower price. https://www.google.com/search?q=mud+flap+fuel+discount&oq=mud+flap+fruel+&aqs=chrome.1.69i57j0i13j0i22i30.9458j0j7&sourceid=chrome&ie=UTF-8 Using Kansas City as an example: TSD best price is $2.93, MudFlap is $2.90 and GasBuddy is $2.60 less 13 cents credit card so $2,47. The $2.60 price is right off of I-70 and if you can’t get in-out of the pictured station ???????

The last reasonable diesel (filled up in both directions) is in Oakley, Kansas on I-70…under $2.90 with the TSD /EFS card and only place I used the card all summer.

Looks like the west bound deck’s railing is gone… likely only the east bound (lower level) will open with one lane each direction.

Changing the oil in my Onan 10K with a Kubota engine. Balked at the $30-$40 prices for a 187-1000 filter and decided to look in my shop for one. Had a Kubota HH1C0-42430 on the shelf and other than being slightly longer it’s a exact replacement. EBay has it for less than $15 and Amazon for $19. Going to scratch the # on and hours on the filter as it’s only on the wrapper.

I put a bent in half small tie wrap in the drain hoses…keeps a bug from building a nest but lets the water out.

Only reason to take 40 was to be behind our daughter if they had problems… they made it home shortly after we got back.

Had a choice of using either from CO as the mileage was almost the same…50 miles further on I-70. Having used 70 on the way West in June, decided to use it again as it’s in really good shape…. at least from St Louis to Denver. Daughter was using 40 and said it was terrible and had lots of construction zones with stop and go traffic. Never had to slow below 55 on I-70. Other than it being really hot and a couple of idiots that have to pass on the right and then squeeze into a hole barely big enough at 70 mph. Even laying on the horn, when they are along side, didn’t stop them. Fortunately traffic in front didn’t slow down, all of a sudden, as it would have gotten interesting. I do run a dash cam for just these idiots if something happens.

Just completed a really hot trip… CO to GA. Did most of Kansas at night but still had to run the 2 front ACs as the dash stopped cooling. After 12 hours on the road, got a CG with 50 A power and ran all 3 ACs. Open the engine hatch as the back floor in the BR was 110 degrees. Front stayed fairly cool but the back took 4 hours to finally cool down and that took closing the front ceiling vents to force more cool air to the back. We run the bathroom vent while on the road to help get some on the engine heat out.

Common problem…seems to take 10 years. Suspect corrosion on the plug’s pins builds up, creating a high resistance situation. I bypassed the burnt plug by soldering 2 new wires to the back of the board. A new controller is $175 from VIP