Old Dog

As I wrote in the opening post, I have cleaned and inspected every connection from the battery terminals to the starter. Both pos & neg including the one I couldn't get to the frist time, the pos battery connector block outside the box. Yes, the 13.4v is charging voltage. Have to rig up a jumper to test voltage at the starter when cracking since I'm by myself. Since all the connections look good a bad cable is possible but that doesn't seem like a common failure. This coach has never seen salt or de-icer and has no corrosion to the undercarriage.

Just installed new starting batteries (3 - Interstate Group 31HD lead acid), replaced original starter and cleaned/inspected all cables & connections including: Neg - Both sides of the connector blocks at the battery box. All battery connections including jumpers, jumper from starter to frame and from frame to battery box connector block. Pos - All connections inside battery box including connector block and battery jumpers, connections to/from chassis battery switch, and connection at starter. Couldn't get to the outside of the battery box connector block. None of the connections were corroded or dirty, certainly not bad enough to cause this sluggish turning over. Batteries have 13.5v at pos to ground and 13.4v at starter pos connection to ground. The engine turns over too slow to start for approx 5-7 seconds then stops just like low or dead batteries. Doesn't matter if I use battery boost to interconnect house/chassis or not. I've had the block htr on all day and it's approximately 70 degrees. I'm at a loss and and suggestions or assistance would be appreciated.

Not sure how yours is set up but mine leaked between thr piano hinge and the top edge of the opening and a small bead of caulking fixed it.

I use one of these, also much more versatile.

If you want to go big and enjoy a little hiking I would recommend Yellowstone, Zion, and Arches on the way down. Minimum 5 days each, so much to see.

You should avoid running your tank low for several reasons, one being cooling. The hotter the air temps the more critical. The return fuel back to the tank is very warm and is used in a lot of cases to cool your ecm. When the tank gets low, less heat transfer, hotter fuel to your engine and ecm. Also cools your injectors. If you spend any time driving in temps over 70-80° try and stay above 1/2 tank. Just my 2 cents.

One thing I didn't see mentioned is arcing. When ever you open/close shoretie & generator contacts under a load there will be some arcing so you should do everything you can to reduce the loads. Turn off ALL the big stuff until you've transferred.

Your inverter converts 12vdc to 120vac but ONLY when no 110vac is available. When 110vac is preset the inverter just "passes" the 110vac directly through the inverter. It's called a "pass through" feature.

Just replaced the existing with a newer model, slight differences but same over all dimensions.

Looks like you have enough room to get a box end wrench on it, soak it with penetrating oil and put a little heat to it to free up the rust. If the box end doesn't fit you can grind it a little thinner. You didn't care about the old air bag, attack it with an air chisel or a grinder. I'd go straight at the bolt between the air bag lower plate and the 1/4" steel plate or you could cut the rubber out of the way and start grinding. Worst case take a spark wrench to it and scrafe the bolt/nut enough you can break/chisel it off. Where there is a will, there is a way. Have fun.

If I'm reading this correctly, the issue was with the air brake system (ABS Modulator Valve) and not the Valid Air Leveling System. Just trying to clarify for my future reference. Thx

Bilsteins were installed on my rig when I bought it and the only had 17k miles on them. The ride was very harsh, especially the hitting the concert joints in the highways. Switched to Koni and the ride improved dramatically. Can't say how the modified Bilsteins would perform.

I replaced mine with a Valid Continuous Duty high volume unit, will last longer then I do. I can barely hear it run and it only stays on for 20-60 seconds unless the coach is on bad side slope. Seems to use more air side to side then front to back.

Better then getting one that's sat on a shelf for 2-3 years.

The problem is caused by dirt or contamination getting between the needle and seat of the soleniod vavle allowing a slow leak by. In addition to running the pump in both directions, first drop as largest rare earth magnet that will fit down into the hydraulic tank. It picks up the praticulant before it gets in the needle valves. Don't run the pump more then 15 seconds in a two minute period to prevent over heating the motor. In case you have replace a soleniod vavle, they go for about $400 and you just unplug it and thread it off. Hard part is relieving the pressure before removal. On my type of slide if it creeps in the it's extend soleniod for the slide. Slides are numbered g for 1 - Driverside front, counterclockwise to 2, 3, 4. And generator HWH has instructions for identifying soleniods. Slideouts and bleeding procedure. CLEAN EVERYTHING BEFORE WORKING ON THE HYDRAULIC SYSTEM or all the old dirt and oil will get in there. Engine scrubber and a toilet brush work good. Hope the helps

I have 4 slides and no leveling jacks (air level) but I would think the mfg would just use one tank/pump unit with electro-hydraulic soleniod valves for each system and function, much cheaper to build. The bottom of the slide not coming in all the way is an adjustment issue.

Some air filters are NOT a removable cartridge that can be blown out but a complete housing and filter unit. If that's the case you should NOT attempt to blow it out. Air filters actually work better as they filter particulate out and most are changed prematurely. Unless you routinely drive in very dusty conditions, relax it's fine.

Thats a standard clamp made by others, just need to size it up.

Most likely a faulty sensor if you're not getting any water when you drain it.

Thier are a lot rubber places with almost every profile except the one you need. Just have search around. Steele is a good Start.

In most cases the existing wiring is too small and too long, especially between the charge controller and batteries. The original charge controller is also limited to 500 watts. Since you are using an even number of panels you can go series/parallel to the controller which will help with conductor size/length. Do your research on conductor sizes and distances as it applies to solar. Many installers don't get it right because it's hard to reroute the wiring to make the runs as short as possible and the cost of copper wire in larger sizes.

One pump runs whenever the unit is on to maintain circulation, there is no mention of it in the manual and got that tid bit from a tech. I think it was pump #2, not sure if it varies by system.

The rod on the handle threads into the gate, have you tried lightly pushing the rod until it sets, turn it 1 turn ccw turn attempt to thread it together going cw. Hope this helps.

I searched high and low looking for comparisons between the 2 brands of portable dishes and couldn't find much in the way of actual performance evaluations. It goes without saying that the best antenna available is the Winegard Trav'ler but in my case I didn't have the required unrestricted free space on the roof so I was forced to choose a potable type antenna. My first choice was Tailgater because of the very functionally designed roof mount that made relocating the antenna easy. After installation the unit performed as expected for 3 months with the only exception being when parked under a tree. A quick trip to the roof and releasing the antenna from the mount and everything was good. When we got to the Laughlin NV, Bullhead City AZ area it performed fine for 4 days. This was an area that had caused problems with the 129 satelite for 3 previous winters. After day 4 no sat 129. After multiple calls to Dish and King it was determined the antenna was malfunctioning. King wanted me to send it in for evaluation to determine if a replacement was warranted and I would be without tv for 3-4 weeks. They only way to get an immediate replacement was to buy another one, send the bad one in and get a credit once they "verified" it was defective. This was 3 months into the one year warranty. Recieved the replacement and still had issues locking on to 129. I would have to frequently and sometimes repeatedly retune the antenna and go 1-2 days without locking on to 129 with a decent signal. Mind you this is the middle of the desert with no obstructions and very far south so I should have had no issues. The Dish Satelite coverage map does show a weaker single in this area but nothing to indicate the level of reception I was getting. After 3-4 weeks, and 2 separate King antennas I went to Plan B and purchased Winegard Carryout G3. After initial self tuning the antenna locked on to 129 with a signal strength of 30. The best I every saw with the Tailgater was 16. Have had no problems on any of the Satelites and haven't lost the signal even during light to moderate rain. Obviously it's an early eval on a small sample size since it's only been a week but doubling the signal strength while testing in the exact same location and atmospheric conditions speaks volumes. The Carryout comes with a signal booster and I'm sure it made a difference but one should wonder why King has not done something like this as well. The Carryout also has the advantage of working with other service providers by flipping some dip switches. From my real life experiences I would highly recommend the Carryout over the Tailgater. This recommendation is based solely on performance and not on cost, appearance or longevity since I've only had the Carryout for a week. The Tailgater is going in the under bay storage for days parked under trees and the Carryout is staying on the roof. I guess the positive is no more trips up to the roof for a antenna relocation. Hope this helps with anyone trying to decide which potable antenna to purchase.

Monaco provided the ride height measurement in the owners manual with a detailed adjustment procedure all the way through 2006 Executives. For some reason the measurement for 2007 and later was not included in the manuals. I suspect it is the same for the Signature The Executive and Signature are almost identical and I don't think there were any chassis changes, you can use the 2006 Executive or Signature measurement provided in the 2006 manual. I'd quote a number but my feeble memory is not that good. You can get a copy of the manual at the Monaco website. Hope this helps.