Old Dog

Mopar sells a tow wiring harness for jeeps that charge the battery using the stock harness. Kind of a pain to install since the plug to tie into the factory harness is up high behind the glovebox in a really tight spot. Not sure if this is available fo other vehicles.

Be careful putting boxes over the compressor, they get really hot very quickly. I would also upgrade to a continuous duty compressor, will be the last time you need to replace it.

Lucas Oil makes a hub oil that they claim will stop or prevent seal leaks and it's readily avaiable.

If you think calling them is bad, send them an email. They don't respond to them. Factory support for these are gone, thankful we have this forum.

They are supposed th be pretension to 15 turn if memory serves but I've had add a couple turn to mine to prevent billowing in hi winds.

Make sure your water pump even needs an accumulator. My pump went out, ordered a direct replacement and read the enclosed directions for install. It plainly states NOT to use an accumulator, only i'm looking at the one installed at the Monaco factory. These viable speed/displacement pumps no longer need it and it frees up more space. Hope this helps someone.

Today's inverters have a pass through function that sends 110v out whenever it's available and only inverts when not available. Not sure how far back that feature goes for which brands/models.

The existing pickup tube is adequate for the engine, that's the important part.

Steel wool works better, rats and mice hate the stuff.

I worked on a 70' houseboat made in TN that had metric pex fittings throughout, go figure. Took us 2 days to figure that out. Looked like 1/2" but was a little bit smaller and would not seal with standard sizes. Marine plumbing places sell the metric. Hope this helps.

The switch is located on the firewall inside the generator compartment, drivers side almost directly in front of the steering column and almost even in height to the opening. Should have a purple wire running to it from the Valid control board. I had to replace my board and had the same issue with the Park light. Tested the switch and it was fine, then I called Valid. They recommended cleaning the contacts on the plug connection on the board. Apparently they had problems with the preservative coating causing a bad connection Still haven't gotten to it, the nuts on the back side of the board are like playing twister to get too. You need to rotate the photo ccw 90 degrees to get the correct orientation. Hope this helps, Don

Yes, there is a specific buffing compound for glass to remove scratches. Very messy and time consuming. You should tape off and use plastic because it can discolor vehicle paint and the deeper the scratches the longer you're at it. Kind of expensive also. I've done 2 wind shields and it wasn't fun but it does work if you are willing to put the time/effort into it. It also improves wiper performance.

As previous stated, white is negative in automotive applications (if black and white. If red and black, black is negative) if you wire it the way you described it will probably reverse all the functions since DC Motors are polarity specific. You will get 12 vdc on the white wire since you are testing battery voltage at the negative terminal of the battery. Green is NOT ground on 12dc automotive applications. You said 3 wires from the coach, white, green and orange, and from the chair you have Red/white and Red/black as well as 2 black and 1 orange. a lot of possible combinations. You should consult a schematic for the system to sort it correctly. Good luck

The round sewage hose storage tube is useless without modification. I removed the existing round tube because the fitting on the ends of the sewage hose wouldn't fit in the tube. I removed the round tube, then enlarge the opening to the size of the back square panel (with circular opening) using a cutoff wheel. I then purchased a 4" square pvc fence post cover with cap on the other end and installed it in place of the round tube. It slides right over the 2 sides on the existing square box and held in place like the round tube. The enlarged size allows stowage of any sewage hose. If you make the tube the fill width of the vehicle you can get 2 section of hose in it. Hope this helps to solve some of your problem. As too the pass through port being off, I would get a 1"-2" larger size port and enlarge the hole to the right. This will center up the larger pass thru. You can easily cut the new, larger hole by hand if need be.

Rvcams has an adapter that splices onto existing camera cable. They are very helpful, I used there expertise to install side view cams with a controller all wired to turn signal triggers etc. Made a big difference in visibility. Not cheap but nothing is these days.

Your coach was built long before the requirements, don't think they are requiring certification for anything built before, even if it does apply to goods containing wood products.

That time of year you will almost certainly run into some snow and most certainly ice, you've got 3 big passes to get over and once you are it will be cold thought out the central US. I also agree with an early comment about salt/de-icer. I would do I-5 to I-10 or 20 but it will add a few days/dollars to your trip. Good luck

On my 07 Sig the trans needs to be in drive to inflate the door seal.

Turned out nice, and I would agree it was money well spent. It's getting very hard to find places that do a good job.

I just use the manual mode on air bags and crack it up then crawl under. Can a air bag blow out and crush me, maybe. It's what I believe to be a low rusk situation. Don't use my advise, do your own research on the pros/cons and make your own decision. I call tell I've been under there a lot and I'm still with us.

The egt gauge allows you to monitor load, i.e. the higher the temps, the higher the load with a max of 1200 degrees. If you're pulling a long hill you can see if are pushing too hard. Also increases the life of your turbo, the quickest way to kill a turbo is hot shut down. You should let it cool too 300-350 degrees before shut down.

Check the water/flush switch (mounted on the front of the vanity cabinet on my coach) frist. It gets so much use that the contacts wear out. I had issues with the toilet not flushing and traced the problem to a $2.00 switch. Hope this helps.

Also check the boot clamps to/from intercooler & turbo i.e. reduced boost. Easy stuff frist. These rigs should come with fuel, boost and egt gauges, would make troubleshooting much easier.

To further elaborate, the oil capacity on my engine is 12 gallons. With 8.5% dilution that would mean approximately 1 gallon of the total is diesel fuel. Diesel fuel use to have some lubricating properties but since the low sulphur requirement, not so much. I would also disagree with the suspected cause of the dilution. I don't think it's even reasonably possible to idle a diesel long enough to get that level of dilution. At least I've never seen or heard of it happening in the 26 years I worked in the field. By the time you see a drop in oil pressure the damage is already done, you're just waiting for the bang. Oil changes are CHEAP compared to the cost of a new engine.

Operating a diesel with that much dilution will almost ALWAYS be fatal. I would not run that engine without changing the oil AND eliminating the source of the diesel fuel. That 5% limit was established for a reason and you are almost TWICE that number. You sound like you're going to run it anyway so take a moment to think about the cost and heart ache that will result. You may make it the 100 miles but every mile driven is shortening the life of that engine. It may not sieze today, but what about tomorrow? Good luck