LakeBob

15 minutes ago, vito.a said:

Monaco diesel coaches use Villa International seats and furniture.  

Look for the manufacturer tag inside the storage pocket on the back of the seat. 
im pretty sure that’s where I found mine. 

I've used the compressed air method with success, disconnecting  the inside connection behind the filters and blowing both ways.  Definately blew out a blockage on my problem unit.   I also had to reposition the drain line on my center AC as it was kinked during installation and effectively blocked the flow by 75% or more.   

I read a tip once that pouring a 25% bleach/water solution into the drain cups would help break up mold that grows in the lines, especially in warm and humid climates.  I did this to all mine when I purchased, as it was a Florida based coach. 

Have the coach in a local body shop fixing some clear coat peeling and corrosion that is forming on the aluminum doors and slide frames on our coach.  Received these from REV and wanted to share for future reference. 

1 hour ago, Tom Cherry said:

I’m a bit confused.  Where exactly is the light mounted?  Where does the power to ir come from.  If the light is a REAL porch light above or near the door, then it is powered by the Keyless entry system.  On SOME Coach Steps, there is a round cheap and not waterproof “clearance style” light under the step.

What Coachstep/Lippert is refering to is a STAND ALONE porch light…. I think.  Been a while since I crawled under mine, but I was referring to the “not well designed nor placed” round light under the step.

We may have a communication issue….  Running the purple wire to the OEM Exterior Porch light would be a hassle and require a dual diode Roadmaster taillight to prevent backfeed.

NOW, if this is a clearance style light on the lower side or near the step…that is a horse of a different color.

Pictures and narrative would be nice.  Bottom line…on the drawing, Monaco NEVER showed it.  BUT if you dig into the prints, as I did….out of curiosity, you need to find the circuit for the “LIGHT” and determine WHERE and HOW it is powered…. I’m assuming that your Purple wire is NOT Terminated… And just “hanging out”.

Thanks in advance for clarification…

The light was wired with power coming from the black wire exiting the control module  The purple wire is not connected, just stripped back a 1/2” and hanging loose(I’m going to address that) 

The light was mounted in the hole to the left of the white magnetic switch.

These are the step on my rig 

1 hour ago, 96 EVO said:

This is how mine works as well.

I have not tried that combination.  Thanks to you two for this information! 

2 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

My take.  I NEVER remember the step light working.  The reason....  I THINK...  Monaco had, on many models, a REMOTE or keyless entry system.  That system, Essex or Trimark, had a 30 Second "PORCH LIGHT" on circuit.  SO, I do NOT know if mine is connected...or ever worked.  The purple wire is what the print says will power it.  Test that for voltage. 

Here is the print for mine.  Your Step is a TWO STEP....when mine is ONE...but I THOUGHT that CoachStep made them both and used the SAME controller.

You need to see how your's is WIRED on the PRINTS.  If you look carefully.  The four Connector harness is on your print....on the lower left side.  THEN the Purple WIRE.  Then...it is difficult to see the rest....but I'm guessing, since there is NO POWER INPUT on my Monaco print...based on the size of the wires....that the GREEN is power.  There is a RED and Yellow there....which would be for the MOTOR..  There is a sort of hidden wire below it....

BUT, using the OPTIONAL PORCH LIGHT Circuit would have, IMHO, interfered with the Keyless entry....so Monaco never hooked it up.  NOW WHY did all the steps have the "clearance" light.  NARY a clue.  BUT, it HAS BEEN discussed and is a PITA to keep the moisture and such out of ....and has been "DISREGARDED or ABANDONED" by many....if not the majority.

I don't KNOW and maybe it called out in the install instructions....exactly WHEN it stays ON.

IF it stays ON....when the step is OUT...  Then, it will be a parasitic load.  MANY of us do NOT use the CYCLE every time setting.  Mine is simple.  PARK... Step comes out...  STEP STAYS OUT.  We come and go and the STEP never cycles.  THAT is less wear and tear on the motor....and the GEARS...which is the WEAK POINT.  Turn on IGNITION.  Close door or have door closed...and turn on IGNITION.  BINGO, Step retracts...

DRIVE....get to new location or stop.  Open door... STEP Extends.  NOW, some prefer that it cycle every time....different strokes for different strokes.

BUT, if you boondock, I would want to KNOW WHEN (test the Purple WIRE) the step or Porch light is ON.  If you leave OUT the steps....to prevent battery drain and needlessly cycling the steps.....and the light stays on...you have a Parasitic drain on the battery from the step light...

FWIW....  That clearance light bulb, assuming it is the standard 194...will draw 276 mA or 0.276 Amps.  Your TWO alarms...  Propane and CO draw a combined 198...so that is 40% MORE JUICE than the two alarms COMBINED.  Folks fret and fight to save 10 - 15 mA....  In terms of parasitic....that step, if the bulb is on....like I THINK mine would be...will draw, Daily, 3% of your usable 225 Amp Hours (50% of a Four Battery Bank)....  THEN, if you say..  OK....set it to cycle....the amp draw of that motor will really add up.

Just pointing out the circuitry and my BELIEF.  You can TEST and verify....just understand the consequences of adding something that Monaco, apparantly chose...at least on mine....not to incorporate....

 

Entry step.pdf 59.7 kB · 0 downloads

Thanks for drawing. I see the purple and black wire are not shown. 

Thanks Tom, the light is a 2 diode LED.   With PM 169 and DOT P2 03 Markings. 

Found a replacement on Etrailer:  Peterson Piranha LED Clearance or Side Marker Trailer Light - Submersible - 2 Diodes - Amber Lens Peterson Trailer Lights 169A (etrailer.com)

While replacing the magnetic "step out" dash light switch on my lippert steps, I noticed an amber clearance light mounted on the step assembly.  This is placed to light up the steps from under the coach.  This has never worked, so while in the area thought I would trouble shoot and get this working.   I suspected the ground was bad, as it was covered in an inch or two of packed in dirt and road grime.  Removed and cleaned the ground, no joy.  A black wire from the controller (I believe this is noted as the "not used" wire in the main diagram below and in the inset porch light switch diagram the color is not noted) was connected to the light for power.  Connecting my meter to the black wire showed no voltage, regardless of porch or step handle/light switch position.  I noticed a purple wire coming from the controller that was not connected.  Looking at the diagram below, it appears that the purple wire should be connected to the existing porch or step/handle light circuit to power this step light.   Appears that Monaco went through the effort to mount and wire the light, however neglected to connect the purple wire to the porch or step/handle light circuit.  I haven't looked at the Monaco wiring diagrams yet.  

Am I looking at this correctly?  Anyone have experience with a Monaco installed step light?

Anyone have the step light installed from the factory that is actually working?

Ordered a new light and will install and wire up this weekend.

Sorry, didnt think about taking pictures while under the coach today.  I'll take a few when installing the new light.  

Here's the pics of my dash set up.  I have a desk/drawer on the passenger side and a drawer below the center dash panel.  The right front corner moves an inch or more when you put a small amount of pressure on it.  I believe the support underneath has failed.  This results in squeaks when the dash panel rubs against the plastic windshield post cover. 

Thanks!

Thanks guys, I'll be back at the coach tomorrow and take a few pics

Has anyone removed the dash pad on their later model year Dynasty? There is significant movement over by the passenger corner of the flat dashboard and I'm thinking that the support under the pad has become loose or deteriorated.  

I've removed all the easy to access screws and it's obvious that I'm going to have to dig deeper to find the primary fastners.   Before I start pulling drawers and instrument dash panels, I thought I would ask for any tips or advise from those who have ventured into their dash.

Thanks!

I removed the Villa J-couch, dinette seats and sleeper sofa from our Dynasty.  Looked at new Villa furniture for theater seating and a new sleeper, however big $$ and long lead times due to Covid era demand.  

We ended up with two Lambright power recliners (love them) on the flush floor side and a new Lambright 72” sleeper couch installed on the raised kitchen slide. They added 2, 3 inch rollers to the front of the sofa frame during installation.  They used the same carriage bolt installation method for the rear frame.  Had to silicone a couple spare holes.  I had about the same 10” over hang.  The Villa frame was built to cantilever out without support. Lambright always adds rollers. I would be concerned with the longevity of a plywood structure 

The furniture was made by Lambright Custom Chairs in Elkhart, IN.   We drove up to see and sit on the many options and then placed our order.  Selected Ultra Leather, lots of colors to choose from.  Very pleased with the furniture quality and installation. 

On 8/16/2024 at 5:54 PM, timaz996 said:

It is a clear tape and I got it on Amazon and it is called awning repair tape. Clean the area with a little alcohol and put the tape on. It stays very well. I have a small 2 in.² piece in the middle of my awning that has been on there three years. 
on another note, as I have said on here before I got tired of all the maintenance and noise of slide out toppers and went with the True Toppers last year and I love them.

TEAR-AID Fabric Repair Kit, Type A Clear Patch for Canvas, Fiberglass, Leather, Polyester, Nylon & More, 3in x 5ft Roll, Single Pack

This is good stuff.  They have two types, I've used it on vinyl and fabric covers for years.  Used it on the tears on my toppers before replacement. 

The thread on the Sunbrealla slide toppers on my 09 started failing a couple years ago.  I had the same thought about removing and sewing, as some of the toppers were still in decent shape.  I'm a boat owner, I understand top repairs, having seams resewed, patches added, many times over the years.   However, upon closer inspection, I discovered a few tears, worn fabric, and disintegrated/damaged channel ployrods and toppers pulling out of channels.  In addition, the fabric had stretched over the years and even with an additional wind on the longest slide, water would still accumulate in the topper and they would flap noisily in windy conditions.   Which means when wintering in Florida, they are always flapping!  

I decided to replace. After some research, and at the recommendation of many on this site, I ordered new toppers from Stone Vos for all 4 slides and the door awning.   Stone Vos is one of Chris Throgmarten's rv products and repair businesses.  If you know Chris, his products are well designed and use quality materials.    Chris and I had a conversation about the materials used in the past (when Sunbrealla made good stuff, like the 30-year-old Bimini top on my Sea Ray-still in great condition) compared to the Chinese made Sunbrealla of the last 15 years or so. Stone Vos also uses a unique European poly thread, that has excellent wear and weather resistance ratings.  While Chris is no longer part of the ownership of Stone Vos, his ex-wife and their team do an excellent job and are very supportive of the Monaco community, as Chris has also done for years.  

Stone Vos RV Awnings - RV Toppers, Replacement Awnings,   @throgmartin

Couldn't be happier with the customer service, ease of ordering, delivery and the final product.  The quality is unsurpassed, and the pricing was reasonable.  

Last winter in Florida I hired an independent RV Service tech, staying at a neighboring RV park, to help me remove and install the toppers.  We removed all the toppers as step one, and I cleaned and removed any loose or damaged tape and resealed all the slides with new Eternabond tape and caulked as needed. This was not a fun job, but very necessary.     I also needed time to order and replace a few parts like:  severely rusted center support rollers, etc. 

The installation It's waaaay easier with two.  Especially feeding the new toppers into the channels on the roller tube and body.   His experience was invaluable, he was a Holiday Rambler owner, similar vintage and we shared a common appreciation for the build quality of our coaches.  You cannot use the big channel lock method on all Carefree awning roller tubes!   Make sure you know how to secure the spring before you disassemble!   I like the A-Z guy, however, do your research as not all those methods apply to all configurations.  

Love the new toppers, the Coachguard Arcylic fabric is great, no stretching, no pooling and no Flapping!  The Yorkshire has 4 slides, some three large ones,  over 51 feet combined,  for less than $1400. 

Thought I would give you my feedback for any of those thinking of replacing instead of repairing.  Unfortunately, I did a lousy job of documenting this process, however I did take a few pics of the deteriorated tape on the top of the slides. 

Looking down from the roof edge, Image of the tape lifting at the body edge of the coach: 

Another body side shot: 

Outer Edge of Slide: 

Thanks for reinforcing this distinction.  The many forum discussions I've read on this never make this clear. 

 My Dynasty has air leveling only and I've always leveled first and then extended slides, then relevel.   

I’m no help regarding the operation of your tv lift, however I couldn’t help tnotice that the image on your tv in the picture is quite appropriate given its current state! 
 

I’m sure someone will have some trouble shooting tips.  Good luck with the fix! 

The AZ Expert video is a good suggestion. 

 I followed it when adjusting mine.  I only took 2 pictures during the process.  They are pictures of the lock assembly, perhaps they will help.  It may be helpful to have someone apply presure to the outside of the door while trying to release from inside?

Wow, so glad everyone is safe.  I understand your heartbreak, I would feel the same if someone ran into our Dynasty after all the blood, sweat and tears invested. 

On the plus side, it appears the damage is relatively superficial, mostly just fiberglass.  If all the mechanical systems are still functioning properly it should be a straightforward repair for a good fiberglass shop.   Appears most panels broke off at the belt line.  

Good luck with your insurance company, do your research, determine the real current value of the rig and don't take their first offer!

I'm in the process of ordering guardian plates for one of my slides. Spoke to Chris yesterday and I'm pleased to report that positive changes are taking place at Talin.  Of course, It will take some time to change the course and get the ship headed in the right direction.   

I took the core to a radiator repair shop, where they explained that pressure testing can push calcium or other debris into tiny holes, falsely indicating the core is in good condition. They perform vacuum tests on everything; if the core fails to hold a vacuum, then there's a problem. I hope to hear back from them today and will update on their findings. This approach seems logical for detecting small leaks.

(The above was a rewrite of my original post by the sites AI engine. It popped up just before I posted and asked if I wanted to use this feature.  It did enhance the communication a bit.     Its an interesting world we live in!)

On 5/5/2024 at 4:43 PM, Ivan K said:

AC insulation tape, Prestite tape, used on exposed line and valves. Available on Amazon amongst others.

Thanks, I found several types of "refrigerant tape".  

So I've dealt with this stuff for many years, usually carefully removing and replacing, and I've never had to apply new.  this was applied to the outside of the HVAC box, sealing the AC and heater core lines. 

Is this just a thick strip of butyl rubber?  Pick up at any auto parts store?   

Thanks! 

Test Time: Rigged up a water test for the core. Tested at 30 psig for 5 minutes each end.  Needed to alternate submerged ends to test the entire core. 

No bubbles.....

Frustrated that I didn't find a leak, as I just don't see how the leak I observed occurred without the core leaking.   The only thing I did not mention is I observed the leak 4 months ago when arriving at our winter  spot and we had to use the heat that morning.   We did not use the chassis heat the entire 1800 miles home. I'm wondering is some debris or scale has plugged a small hole in the heater core? 

There is a mixer valve just outside the Heat/AC box, perhaps it was leaking?   I'll take a closer look at this.  

Regarding Assembly:  What type of seal would you recommend for sealing the box to the firewall.  I was thinking of a butyl tape?  OR Closed cell foam tape?

Replacement Heater Core 042-00044:  I did find a replacement core for $175 on Ebay.  Will talk to some other manufacturers and the local radiator shop tomorrow to see what other options are out there. 

1 hour ago, Rikadoo said:

WOW! First things first hats off to you Bob, i have torn into removing units like that an there not for the faint of heart. Next i would like to know what color was the fluid on the ground that you saw? Was it the same as your engine coolant? Most radiator shops after pressurizing them dunk them in a tank of water as a crack in the copper tubing is really difficult to find, now that said perhaps it might be a benifit to see if you still have a radiator shop that you can have test the core. From personel experiance there mostly previlant in small towns anymore mostly due to local epa crackdown.

Thanks, it was a fairly easy job on my rig.  There's one screw on the upper left that is a problem, have to do my touch, will be fun getting that one back in.  

Yes, a radiator shop might be able to determine if there's a leak, it may be very small and I cant hear it. I'll try some soapy water today.  I'm hoping it is good as the first replacement I found was $525....ouch. 

Thanks guys, I'm confident the AC evaporator is good, the AC works well and holds pressue, just had it serviced last September.  

Im just surprised I didnt see an obvious leak with the heater core.   I may be a little low on test pressure, I'll check the cap and see if there's any info. 

I was experiencing leaking from the bottom of the AC/Heater core box attached to the firewall of the coach.  

See below, the rust that has developed  on the firewall where the AC/Heat box attaches.

I noticed a drip after a days travel last fall when we had to use chassis heat one morning. 

Heater/AC evap box removed: 

I pulled the heater core, plugged one side and applied pressure, 25 psig, and no leaks were evident. The core released pressure when I removed the air.  I was expecting to see something in the area below.  The only rusty area on the entire core. 

I increased pressure to 35 psig and experienced the same result. 

What kind of pressures does this system operate at during normal conditions?   I wondering where else this leak could be coming from?

Should I increase pressure and test again?

The AC seems to drain well, I notice the drips on the pavement when that system is running, so I doubt this rust is caused from the AC evaporating.  

From the date code this appears to be the original heater core.  Someone has been in here before; new hardware and broken box flanges were found. 

Thanks!!

2 hours ago, bill4029 said:

About to do the Turbo upgrade on My Marquis.. Did you run new power or use the existing power for the turbo. I see it indicates a higher amperage, but suspect the draw is normally much less. If I need to run higher amperage I have to decide where to run it from. my batteries directly or from the central power area. 

Thanks ! 

Bill D.

Would love to know more about the "Turbo" upgrade.  Love my original Sanicon system, however its fairly slow, especially on the larger gray tank.

Would appreciate more information as well.  Should we start another post?

Thanks!

Bob