snoracer

Correct - My endeavor does not have an air bladder type door seal. Any other suggestions?

I've tried searching for info on this but all I can find is latch actuating rod adjustment. My problem is that the door won't close tight enough. I've tried moving the striker posts in as far as they will go, but that didn't help. Once the door is fully closed/latched, you can still push the door in tighter. I've made sure that both upper and lower latches are both clicking in to both clicks. The door closes in to both clicks very easily without having to slam it. There is a very noticeable air leak while driving. I can hear it from the drivers seat. It sounds like there's a window open. My coach is a 2007 HR endeavor. Thanks in advance for whatever help you can provide.

Sorry I forgot to mention that the new motor did not require any modification. All mounting wholes lined up and were exactly the same as the original motor.

UPDATE: Problem solved !! Got the new motor last wed July 3, installed it, and still had the same problem. Here's what I figured out - the old motor was definitely worn out. As a result of the worn out motor, the controller did not sense a current load change when the step fully retracted and the motor continued to run which then caused the motor gear to slip over the last tooth on the gear plate. It actually ground that last tooth almost completely off. What I ended up doing was to change the length of the connecting arm so that when the steps are fully retracted, the gear plate stops several teeth sooner before reaching the end. Now everything works perfectly. The steps go in and out so smooth and quiet that I can't even hear them retract once the door is closed. I just returned from our 4th of July weekend trip to Des Moines Iowa for a car show where the steps got plenty of use, and they worked perfectly. Thanks everyone for all of your suggestions. Tim

Thanks for the replies guys. Here's what I've found so far. The steps retract all the way in. The gear plate rotates as far as it can go and is meshing with the motor gear all the way around. Once the step reaches the end of it's travel inward, the gear plate is at it's very last tooth and the motor continues to run which then causes the gear plate and motor gear to ratchet/slip over each other. I spoke with a tech service guy at Lippert, and he said that the motor needs to be replaced. Apparently there is a nylon gear inside of the motor gear case that wears out and when that happens the step controller can't sense a change in the current draw and therefore it doesn't tell the motor to stop running. So, I have ordered a new motor from E-Trailer. I will give an update after installing the new motor. By the way, Lippert wanted $358.95 for a new motor. Amazon had a new Lippert motor for $188.00 and several Chinese knockoffs for $35.00. I ended up buying from E-Trailer for $265.87 which included the cost of 2 day UPS shipping. Amazon didn't have a 2-day shipping option.

I have a 2007 Endeavor 40PDQ. Entry steps extend properly, but when retracting, the motor doesn't stop running. Is there a limit switch that stops the motor when the steps fully retract?

Update - I may have figured out something. I forgot that I had put a small, but fairly heavy, safe in the under-bed storage area along with the 2 folding chairs and the central vac accessories. I removed the safe and now the slide extends all the way without stopping. So, for now, problem solved. We're leaving for a 3 week trip out west next week. Remains to be seen if the problem is really solved or not. I still think that I'm going to have to eventually replace the slide motor. Thanks everyone for all the advice and suggestions.

John and Tom - thanks for the suggestions. Tom, you mentioned a link but none appears in your post. Can you PM it to me? A little more detail on my problem. I try not to operate the slides on battery power. I always park on as level a spot as possible, make sure coach is fully aired up., shut down the engine, plug in to shore power, then run the slides out, then only level if needed. The bed slide is the one thats giving me the problem. It will start extending for a foot or so then stop. I let off of the switch for a second, then push it again and the slide starts moving out again for another foot or so. Usually have to do this several times to reach full extention. When moving the slide back in, it works perfectly all the way back in. The wardrobe slide works perfectly. Temp doesn't seem to make a differance. I'm wondering if the motor has a bad winding.

I have a 2007 Holiday Rambler Endeavor 40 PDQ. While extending the roadside bedroom slide it stops before full extention. I release the switch for a second, then press it again and the slide continues extending for a bit then stops again. It will do this several times until it fully extends. The first time it happened I thought it was because we had too much stuff piled on the bed, but now it does it with nothing on the bed. Is there an adjustment that I can check, or do I need a new motor? Tim

Thanks Chris - I'll be contacting you ASAP. Sounds like we may be able to save this floor. Tim

Thanks Andy, looks very interesting. Tim

Vito - thanks for the info. I’m familiar with AZ RV Expert, I’ll search for that video. Gary - I haven’t dug into the floor as of yet, but looking at it from the outside it appears that the white plastic may have originally been glued to the OSB but is now loose. I’ll start peeling the layers apart from the top and hopefully make patch panels to replace the damaged wood. What is a Talin Guardian Plate? Tim

Has anyone had to replace their rotted out Slideout floor? I have a 2007 Endeavor 40PDQ. The underside of the roadside slide out is sagging and crumbling on both ends. The floor appears to consist of a plastic or thin fiberglass sheet with an OSB plywood layer above it. The OSB is rotted and crumbling. I’m in the process of replacing the dometic 1402 refer with a residential fridge, so now is the time to repair the floor. I just pulled out the old fridge, all of the cabinets and carpeting. There is a plywood floor apparently covering the OSB. One corner of the plywood (under the fridge) is slightly rotted away. So, my question is, how are these things constructed? Are the walls sitting on top of the floor? What is the floor fastened to? Suggestions for how I should go about replacing the damaged floor. I’m sure there must be info from previous posts, but I can’t find it. Thanks for whatever help or advice you can offer. Tim

Thanks for the replies fellas. I guess I’ll stick with the long “TRUCKERS” gauges that I already have. Tom, I’m glad your grandson is ok. That Subaru must be well built. I am a retired auto damage adjuster, 23 years with State Farm Ins. I’ve had to inspect more gruesome wrecks than I care to think about, so I can only imagine how those two folks at the front desk must have felt when they saw your grandson. As for TPMS, I had the TST system on my last coach. The display was way too small and hard to read. Plus the 12v power cord plug was very loose and it kept wiggling in the socket and disconnecting. It became such a PITA that I just stopped plugging it in. My current coach also had a TPMS system. I forget what brand it is (I’m at work right now), but it doesn’t work. It’s an older system and the wheel sensor batteries are all dead. The batteries can not be replaced, you have to buy all new sensor’s. Seems ridiculous to me. Bottom line is, I’m not going to get another TPMS system unless there is a better system with a large display, or a way to display it on an iPad, and it has replaceable sensor batteries. Do you have any suggestions.

Looking for suggestions for a good quality digital tire pressure gauge. I have a handful of gauges and I get different readings on all of them. Thanks for any help.