PauleJoubran

So I've checked the rear controller and I've tried starting the rig from the engine compartment with the ignition in the run position and I get the same clunking sound. Flipped the switch a few times and tried starting it again from both the front and the rear and nothing. With the ignition in the on, run or start position, my transmission panel does NOT light up. So I don't know if I'm in neutral or not. Maybe this will spark a suggestion or maybe this is the reason my mysterious 10amp fuse blows? I could try unplugging the transmission controller from underneath (I don't have the slightest clue what I'll find here) and replacing the fuse to see if the controller causes the fuse to blow. I'll try this next weekend.

Thanks Benjamin. I didn’t mention replacing the fuse twice. I’m assuming a direct short to ground or a faulty component because I’ve tried replacing the fuse twice and the moment it’s connected, it sparks and blows the fuse. I’m thinking the Hot solenoid is activated when the shore power is plugged in. I haven’t tried disconnecting shore power when I was testing everything but when the ignition is set in the “on” position or “start” position, shouldn’t the shore power automatically disconnect?

Update: At the back of the rig near the older solenoid with 1 small terminal, we located an open (blown) fuse. Traced the wiring to one side of the fuse block to the positive terminal of the house batteries and the other side of the fuse block to head towards the front of the rig. I’m assuming the side that heads towards the front of the rig is shorted somewhere directly to ground or has a faulty component attached to it. Open fuse: lead to lead with the fuse out, reads 13.2v Solenoid in the front dash area: Key in the off position: large lug to large lug reads 13.2v Small lug to small lug reads 0v key in the on position: I read the opposite voltage. Solenoid in the back of the bus: Key in the off position: large lug to large lug reads 0.v Center small lug to ground reads 12.8v key in the on position: I read the opposite voltage. key in the turn over position: large lug to large lug reads 0.v Center small lug to ground reads 12.8v Hot Solenoid in the back of the bus: Key in the off position: large lug to large lug reads 0.v Small lug to small lug reads 0v key in the on position: I read the same voltage. key in the turn over position: large lug to large lug reads 0.v Small lug to small lug reads 12.8

This is excellent fellas. I can't emphasize enough how appreciative I am with all this information. I just remembered something. I moved the rig forward about 4 feet in order to get into the engine compartment and connect to my EV (I have a Natures Generator charging the EV. I ran line voltage through the chassis from where the generator is stored to the ChargePoint charger and store the ChargePoint in the engine bay). There's a very, very slim chance, I may have bumped the ignition selector switch to the rear. I'll check this first when I get back this evening but the fact that 30-40 minutes later, when I went to back it up against the block wall, I can only hear a deep thump (the sound comes from a solenoid) when trying to turn the engine over. I doubt this is the issue because if I remember correctly, if the switch was set to "rear" in the engine bay, than the ignition would give zero noise when trying to turn over the engine. So for this weekend: I plan on ordering a couple of these solenoids and relays as spare parts but I have several more questions before tackling this over the weekend. I'll be sure to take plenty of photos in the process: 1. There's talk of a "Salesman Switch". a. What is the purpose of this? b. How do I test it's operation? c. Is it needed? d. If so, does anyone have a part number? e. If not, how do I bypass it? 2. Also, I know of two types of solenoids and relays in my rig that I can physically touch. I plan on ordering a couple of each of these parts as spares but I want to know I'll be ordering the correct ones. Remember, the one that's continuously very hot to the touch is the shiny silver one with the label 12V on it. It has 2-large lugs and 1-small lug in the center. a. (2) White Rogers 70-111224-5A with 2-large lugs and 2-small lugs in the center b. (2) ??? 12V with 2-large lugs and 1-small lug in the center (the one that stays very hot to the touch). Does anyone have the correct part number for this solenoid? c. (4) Bosch Relay 0332019155 12V 30A (5) d. (1) BXEEF JD191E-1513 12V 20/30A (this one looks newer. I'm guessing it replaced a Bosch?) e. (8) Relays In the center console cavity. I don't know the Mfg. or MN's yet.

This is some helpful stuff. I appreciate everyone’s comments. I labeled each photo but apparently it doesn’t appear. The culprit (I think anyways) is the dirtiest solenoid in the photos. The one that appears first (at least in my phone). The pretty shiny solenoid is the one that remains hot. My son and I will be working on it this weekend and I’ll post more of what I find. I can’t thank all of you enough with your help. Thank you!!

Thanks Vito. I understand the difference in house vs chassis batteries. I have (2) Lithium Ion house batteries and (2) 12V Lead Acid Batteries. All 4 are new, charged and terminals are clean and tight. Generator starts without a problem from the dash and from the bedroom. Without some type of schematic or a basic understanding of what some of these solenoids do, I'm sort of stuck. I know I have a solenoid in the dash compartment (photos) where all the fuses are located and I have 2 or 3 under the Queen bed on the passenger side wall (photos). I don't mind buying solenoids, I just want to buy the right ones. I'm pretty sure that solenoid I was talking about that's hot to the touch is either faulty or the wrong type. I've attached photos of what I could find and labeled them accordingly. The solenoid that's labeled "Culprit" is the one I can feel clicking when I have someone turn the ignition switch on and off. This weekend I'll ohm the connections to verify the solenoid is operational or not.

I would have never guessed. It's just a tiny little thing. ok. I'll check that when I get back on Friday. Thanks for your input.

Hey guys, I'm new here and did a search on "1996 Monaco Windsor" and didn't really find anything that helps me with this. Here's what I have and my issue: 1996 Monaco Windsor Turbo Diesel 32' with no slides. Engine wont turn. Hearing a thud when I turn the ignition. When I first bought this, it wasn't moving anywhere fast. I found out it was the exhaust manifold leaking and also the turbo had a cracked base. I replaced both and the fuel filter and got this beast to move. It'll need an oil change next. I put in new chassis and house batteries and have not had a real issue since. I would start the rig every month and let it idle for about 30-40 minutes before shutting it down again. The rig is always plugged into shore power. There were no upgrades to the rig when I purchased it other than cosmetic. All buttons, switches and fixtures are mostly original equipment. I added a 55" Smart TV and a Washer/Dryer combo and plumbed it in myself. I also added a Natures Generator Powerhouse with (2) 410W Panels on the roof. Would like to add more but there isn't enough room unless I cover the skylights or vents. I haven't actually used the generator yet but plan on getting to it this weekend. Up until now. This morning I moved the rig away from the back wall to get into the engine bay and had it sit there for roughly 1/2 hour. I tried to start it up and all I hear is a deep click when i turn the key. I found out which solenoid was making the clicking noise but stopped at that point. After physically searching for the solenoid, I noticed one of the solenoids (looks newer) was very hot to the touch. So hot that you couldn't touch it for more than a a couple seconds before scolding your fingers. I don't think this is normal. I don't want to order solenoids in guessing what I need. I've searched everywhere online and can't find a service manual, owner manual or brochure remotely close to what I have. If anyone here can help me figure this out along with switches, maintenance and other important information, I would greatly appreciate your help/advise. I'm away during the week but the rig is always plugged into shore power. I have one window open and have both ceiling exhaust fans running along with a fan in the middle circulating air. I have the refrigerator operating on electric and 2 small LED's in the back always on. I also have a couple WIFI cameras on all the time.