FlynPirate

43 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Please post a video of getting the BMW 1200 into the Dynasty and onto the Comfortaire Bed.  Thanks.

Truck Bed Tom ... remmeber we're talking "toads". Lol

1 hour ago, Agpopp said:

Ram towing is easy as well. I really don't know it's back there unless we're on a steep grade or I put the bike in the bed, even with my ISB 5.9.

Nice! That's my plan as well ... P/U with my BMW 1200 in the bed. 

On 8/31/2024 at 10:19 AM, swmorgan said:

Yesterday was our first trip with this rv and truck in tow.  I previously owned a national rv gasser that I pulled an Acura mdx behind and knew the next rv would have to be a diesel.  That national on the hills was a killer.  

Yesterday we drove salt lake city to Dillon montana with my crew cab silverado in tow and had a great experience.   No problem holding 65 mph the whole trip.  Hardly even felt the thing back there.  I'm loving my first diesel experience

Keep the updates coming! I'm currently considering a full-size Chevy or GMC Toad. What model are you pulling? What towbar system? 

23 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

YA DON’T SAY???  Crabbing.  HMM….when you are in a 16 passenger Lake Winnipesaukee Airlines plane and the copilot didn’t show, but there was a “charter” arranged by a national company….and there was 31 of us….they FLEW anyhow,  I grabbed the right front (copilot) seat.  We were flying great out of a small NH airfield and headed to Logan.  i was listening to the pilots chatter….but then the control tower said.  LAXX55XX or something like that…. Be advised crosswinds gusting to 45 or so knots on R35L (the runway number) and I looked down at his clipboard and  it was one of Logan’s Strip of Land in the Harbor.  I thought….gonna get great few shots when we touch down and land.  Then the Pilot killed the speaker and went to headsets and I started to put on one and he said NO.  OK….touchy guy.

Then we headed down.  He was at the far end of the strip so far out in the bay, the tower was a spot.  He touched down….and had then yanked the stick turned or rotated far right.  OMG,  he’s suicidal.  We’re going into the drink.  WHY ME, LORD?  As we touched down the plane looked and felt like we were 45 deg to the runway.  He was dancing on the pedals and had one hand on the stick (wheel) and was doing all sorts of things to levers and switches and such….about halfway down the runway….the plane started to straighten up and he was STILL pulling and pushing.  This was in 1975….

As we were taxiing later, he explained about Cross Winds and Crabbing.  I still remember that flight…..

A dirty shorts flight! Glad you're still here Tom. I've never seen a pilot "yawning" yet during a strong crosswind landing ... Ha!

Sad to hear this story ... those tires are under a lot of pressure. 

1 hour ago, 96 EVO said:

Always wondered why they don't use electric motors to get those wheels up to speed before they touch concrete 🤔.

Would think it would give them a little longer life.

Cost, weight, certification, but most importantly, symmetry. We seldom land with both tires perfectly aligned with the direction of travel (Runway heading) because, primarily of crosswinds. "Most" landings have a small amount of "crab angle" to correct for wind. If both tires were spinning at some "hypothetical" spin-up speed, as soon as you touched down the motor spinning up the tires could potentially drive you off the runway. (Messing up a good crosswind landing!) Also what speed would they need to be spinning? A strong headwind on final approach reduces "ground speed" so the tires could potentially be spinning faster than needed thereby increasing landing distance, which just ain't good!! (I can see the news video now, we ran off the runway, crossed the ditch and stopped, BUT both wheels are spinning like crazy as we dangle over the ditch! lol.) In theory, could technology correct for all this?... yes, but at what cost and legal certification? I'll be retired by then. Lol! 

10 hours ago, Tom Cherry said:

First…Moderators are following the rules and the charter of this site,  Wandering snd Morphing threads turn into a “Personal” Shell Answer Man topic, where a member just keeps posting problems and expects the group to help them when sometimes reading the manual explains it.  Then, the topics are NOT searcheable and are not of value….or you get so many “hits” and then start to scan and find out the original topic was on TIRES and that morphed into Air Pressure for a Tag and then Valid Leveling and why the tanks are running down but the MH stays level.

WE TRY to cut some slack….but some members persist in posting a gammit of “heres all the things that I don’t understand and want others to help me out.

We get MANY PM’s from lomgtime members about “what’s this gizmo” and why we didn’t hide the topic and respond offline with READ THE MANUAL.

Group dynamics is a strange phenomenon.  Some have wanted a IGNORE flag for certain members.  Let’s move on.  Moderating is something that the staff does without pay and we try to abide by the rules and also keep the charter or the mission intact. The is THE most informative Monaco site on the NET….and it is logically complied and members can research without all the fluff and pontification of the OTHER SITES. We intend to moderate and keep it this way…..

Now here is the screen dump….read what Magnum says…..

Bottom line…. Jeff, you do NOT have enough incoming AMPS to support the load.  YES, a SOFT reset MAY clear it..but continued abuse will cause the Inverter to have longterm issues.

You really need to do some LOAD anaylsis.  The Res Refer may or should have a ENERGY setting.  Next up.  This happens frequently.  Even with a 30% charge rate, if the House Batteries are discharged or depleted, the. Even at 30%, they are gonna ZAP the load.  For example…at 80% the Magnum will show 85 - 90 AMPS…DC. That equates (Volts X Amps)….equals Watts….WATTS is WATTS…so that is about 1,200 WATTS.  That is a 10 Amp load.  Now…yes….you have 20, but the Magnum uses 5% for running.  If the RES REFER does into Defrost or is making ICE…that will suck up many watts or AMPS.

Starting the MH actually is a good thing.  It helps charge the banks….via the Big BOY.

Google SOFT RESET Magnum.  You hold in the power button…Magnum says NO AC.  We have many, myself included that don’t do it that way.  The inverter is supposed to POWER down and then you have to Push Start to get it going and that will clear it.

BUT…look at the age of the inverter.  17 years.  It is like my aging body…..don’t work as well.

The next step, prior to getting out the AMEX and replacing the invrerer….and THIS has saved at least 10 or more of the same vintage….NO AC NO SOLAR.

Remove the leads….the 1/2” nuts SHOULD be tight….very tight.  Mine were.  So torque them down to about what it took to break loose,

Pull the leads.  Then WAIT AN HOUR.  The new tech support at Magnum are NOT as experienced as the former ones, When you pull the leads….before is better….pull the internal.JUMPERS …with disconnect off. Your house disconnect does NOT shut off the Magnum…there is a 400amp fuse…wired HOT.

Once there is NO POWER for an hour…hook up the Magnum leads.  Replace the jumpers.  THEN, when you turn ON the House bank, you get a CLEAN reboot of the Intellitec MPX system.  Otherwise….remember what happened with your slides.

THAT should clear it.  Some have had to do it 2 or 3 times….

NOW…I don’t know if the TV’s are ON…as in plugged in. They need to be on a power strip or surge suppressor…..they DO draw current.

That’s the drill. Hope it works….

Thanks Tom, I did read my manual, several times now, I also read the Magnum manual and went as far as the soft reset. I called tech support twice and the first agent was a completely an empty seat, the second was a lot better, but stumped as well and never mentioned pulling the leads and/or jumpers. I'm just looking for help, That's why I reposted on the same thread. I really appreciate the advise. I'll move on to pulling the jumpers, then leads. 

OK ... I'm gonna open this topic again because I've got an issue. I plugged into a 110V 20Amp outlet and set my Magnum to 15am, with a charge rate of 30%. All was good ... for a while. Now I'm getting this warning "AC Overload" displayed. It is now popping the GFCI. I have the inverter OFF, all AC appliances off so don't understand. A couple of notes ... (1) I do have a brand new Residential refridge installed by the selling dealer. (The original went bad on their lot.) (2) the day I noticed this fault warning, I had started the Engine and ran it for a few mins to level the coach. It was still plugged in. Could this have caused the fault? 

Now what? I can't seem to remove the fault warning. Do I reset the Inverter under the coach? 

24 minutes ago, Ron Shantos said:

So, How do you "reset the CPU's"?

 

Ron

r

My Bad ... left out the main part... sorry. Just turn off the Battery "Cut-off", the one by the door, wait 5 mins and turn it back on. Reboots the CPU's. 

Problem Solved!! Mr. Tom Cherry explained the CPU's within the Multiplex System and a simple reset of the CPU's eliminated the fault and the slides worked as advertised. I worked with several systems today and simply upset the logic. It's good to know now how to reset the system! Just turn off the battery Cut-off, wait 5 mins and turn it back on.  Thank you Mr. Cherry! 

Ok ... I've have my "new" coach 3 days and sitting in a storage lot. It has been plugged in 110 during the nights (Magnum Shore set to 15am draw, charge rate to 30%) I come out, start the Generator and extend all slides, work with the Valid leveling system, raising the Tag, lowering the tag, manual level, auto level ... etc. Just learning the system. The ma'am is working inside, I'm washing outside. We finish for the day and I go to retract the rear slides and nothing. Passenger side is electric, Driver side hydraulic, neither wants to retract. I check all compartments closed, find I left the engine compartment open, close it, try again ... nothing. The two forward slides operate normally. I try with and without gen power, nothing. The hydraulic motor doesn't engage when I try the driver side. Brake is set, I crank engine to power the air system. The Valid is in Travel mode. What am I missing? 

4 minutes ago, Ivan K said:

No good reason to do that, as a matter of fact, many if not most of us have eliminated the disconnect function of the switch.

So when you store your rig you just disconnect the batteries?

One more question concerning plugging into a 110V, should I turn off the battery "Cut-off" switch? (The one by the front door, not the disconnect) Does it matter?

11 hours ago, Frank McElroy said:

Actually that EIF file will contain an amazing amount of engine history.  It's like an electronic engine log on an airplane.  It electronically logs everything including how the coach was driven, all the software updates, how often service and engine brakes were used, the speed history of how the coach was driven, and any engine abuse history (over temp, over rev, low oil pressure). 

Thats very nice… I take delivery today and will schedule this ASAP. If I had known, I’d of required the report prior to purchase. Love and learn. 

Just now, FlynPirate said:

Thats very nice… I take delivery today and will schedule this ASAP. If I had known, I’d of required the report prior to purchase. Love and learn. 

Live

14 minutes ago, Frank McElroy said:

Any Cummins dealer or a repair shop with the Cummins Insite software can generate a pdf report.  If they don't know how to do it, ask them to send you the EIF file that automatically is generated then they connect to your engine ECM and I'll generate the report for you.

Understood…that clarifies it. Thanks Frank! 

On 7/30/2024 at 11:15 PM, Frank McElroy said:

Using Cummins Insite software, get a report (about 50 pages) including a copy of the engine abuse history report and inactive check/stop engine history.  This will tell you if the engine ever overheated or is running hot and when. It will also tell you how the previous owners used the engine brake vs service brakes.  This report will give you a pretty good idea of any engine problems and how the coach has been driven from day one.

Hey Frank ... is this a report I can download? I see the Insite software as extremely expensive to buy. Can a service center run the report for me cheaper. 

Thanks for the recommendation ... 

56 minutes ago, CAT Stephen said:

@FlynPirate,

 

In addition to the content @vito.a mentioned above, also perform the following services:

- Replace Allison Transmission fluid and filters

- Replace Engine Oil and filter

- Replace Generator Oil and filter

- Grease the chassis and use the correct grease for each fitting (i.e. tacky red for steering fittings, chassis manufacturer recommended grease for all of the other fittings)

-Check the engine air filter vacuum pressure and replace the filter if the vacuum pressure indicates

- Replace the engine coolant  

- Replace the generator coolant

- Adjust the generator valve lash if the generator has more than 1000 hours 

- Change the differential oil if the coach has over 100,000 miles

Thanks Stephen!

8 hours ago, vito.a said:

This looks like a beautiful coach.  Expect to spend a fair amount of time and money bringing it back up to speed.  

Unless this dealership is extraordinary, don't expect anything they do to be correct (or done at all).   Check and verify everything!  

If all three A/C units were replaced look at the thermostats.  A Monaco coach with 3 air conditioners (42' and longer) will have two thermostats.  If new, they should have 10 buttons, not five.  Also check to see if they have the heat pump option.  

Check all tire date codes.  A new set will cost $4-6k.  Check the shocks (all 10) to see if they look new.

Check the Valid leveling system.  The first chance you get, park the coach and level it.  Then let it sit overnight to see if it maintains level.

Check the driver's side front slide out locks.  One front, and one on the back of the slide out.  The levers should move up and down freely with the slide extended.

Check the refrigerator carefully and the ice maker if so equipped.   

Check all the dash gauges.  I wouldn't bother checking the satellite dish as they are outdated.  You can check the TV's and electronics, but they are easily replaced.  

Take oil samples from the engine, transmission, and generator and have them analyzed.  

Run the generator and have it power all three A/C units simultaneously.  

Check the Magnum inverter while running the generator to make sure it's charging the house batteries.  If it's a residential refrigerator it will have a pure sine wave inverter.  

Does it have the Aqua Hot option?  If so, check both the diesel burner and the electric heat element.

Check the side door and all the basement doors to see if they lock and unlock with the key.  Make sure the front door keypad locks and unlocks the front door and the basement doors (you'll need the codes).  There should be two remote Trimark key fobs for it.  By this point most are lost.  The driver's side front electrical door and the right rear battery door will have cylindrical locks.  Make sure you get the keys.  Also, you'll want the key to the fuel tank door.  

Check the dash A/C system to see if it blows cold air.  

Download the Owner's manual and brochure and have them ready if any questions come up.  Monaco RV Service & Repairs - Monaco Coach

This list should get you started.  

I wish you all the best on your new adventure!  

  

Excellent checklist Vito…thanks. Some of this I’ve already checked, others I haven’t. I’m on it! 

10 minutes ago, 96 EVO said:

Sanitize the grey / black tanks 😁?

Hope your not paying them to do that!

They are waste tanks! They will never be sanitized!! 

Thanks…that helped. 

28 minutes ago, Just Jim said:

I assume this has the 400 hp pre-DEF engine?  Those early  07 engines can be troublesome as they had not completely figured out the DEF stuff yet. 

Pre - Def

OK ... I need some advise. I'm scheduled for a post purchase inspection this Thursday, at a Dealership, that sold me this 2007 coach on consignment. I do have direct contact with the previous owner, who is very helpful and fairly comfortably knowledgable. I feel good about the purchase after many visits and test drives. I did have them realign the front end and gave them a typical list of pre-delivery squawk items. I expect all pressures and fluid levels and systems to function. Clean batteries and serviced to specs, lube steps, awnings, slide-outs. Flush and sanitize all three water tanks, (blk, grey, fresh).  Attached is a marketing sheet from the PO. Throw it out there! I need pre-buy gotchas! I know the list can be long and arduous so don't expect it to be perfect.  Already have new tail-lights, headlights ready to install. Help!?

-Jeff 

Dynasty Sales Sheet.pdf IMG_2962 3.HEIC

15 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

If you've every watched or rewatched the movie, or the Broadway production or a local theater's production of "MY FAIR LADY".  There is a scene when Liza repeats the "RAIN IN SPAIN....." so precisely that Higgins and Colonel Pickering are overcome....SILENCE...then, Pickering delivers this line,

By JOVE, I think She's GOT IT.  With all apologies...  By JOVE, I think HE's GOT IT...!   Great...!

 

Just keep, as you are, reading the manual, downloading the prints, reading the information in the Files...and there are many files that deal with your charging system and the Proprietary Intellitec boards and the Intellitec MPX lighting system.

That is how you learn.  BUT after reading and researching and such, you hit a brick wall or don't understand....then search and find a topic or if none...then start a new one.

You're getting an extra step in rank...

Ha! In my profession as a pilot, we LIVE by systems knowledge. (Just not 12V systems!) This is right up my alley.  Thanks and Cheers!

Gentlemen ...  My takeaway from this post is to, obviously know the specs of the 110 circuit I'll be plugging into, turn off high draw appliances and set the Magnum accordingly with a reduced draw rate and reduce the charge rate. (I'll start with 15a and 30%), a 12 gauge 25ft cord (if the coach cord doesn't reach) make sure the dealer properly serviced the batteries and plug it in. 

Thanks for all the wonderful and insightful replies. I can see now the amount of support I have moving forward on this classic coach!

Jeff

22 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

With all due respect to several posters.  Your charging system is a bit advanced and it is a Dual In Dual Out.  Their comments in general are correct…must be a HD extension as short as possible. I’d buy a NEW 50-30 adapter.  Way too many folks overload these and the contacts inside the molded conneextors were mechanically crimped…but overloading heats them up and the loose their temper and are loose….HIGH RESISTANCE.  Start with a HIGH Quality Camco BEST ONE…

One word of caution if you try an air conditioner. YOU MUST turn off the Charger.  The starting current for a 15 AC, as they get older will spike into the low 20’s.  Normal running, for a newer one is 13 - 17. That leaves scant amperage and there is a fixed amount of current or parasitic drain from the Magnum.

Do this sparingly and do NOT turn on any interior lights. The suggested rule of thumb here is to immediately convert the halogen Puck Lights to LED. 
 

NOTE…again, your Dynasty has a special Intellitec MPX control system.  That is on standby.  You can also DIM your lights. You MUST select an LED replacement that is DIMMABLE….

Brain on OVERLOAD….it just gets better. Reading your manual puts you way ahead of most,,,

....all good stuff and not overloaded ...YET ... my puck lights have been converted to dimmable LED. I do know to power off pretty much everything in order to charge the batts. Got brand new adapters (50>30, even a 50>15). I'll use my 25ft 12 gauge ext cord. 

3 minutes ago, Scotty Hutto said:

Tom, if Jeff's storage facility has a 15A GFI outlet 20A won't work. It will pop the GFI every time, eventually damaging the GFI outlet. The storage facility I use was built circa 2015 and only has 120v 15A GFI outlets available.

...and you need to check your info about using lower than 15A.  For 6+ years my batteries have charged just fine on a 10A charge rate - while running a residential refrigerator. This is based on my conversation with Magnum Tech Support last summer.

It's a brand new storage facility, but I'll check how they are set-up for circuit protection. As much as I'm paying, maybe I can get them to upgrade my unit. 

14 minutes ago, Tom Cherry said:

Welcome and thanks for reading the manual.  First place to go.

You need to be aware that 120 v GFCI might NOT work well or NOT at all.

You MUST do the SHORE as well as adjust the SETUP in the Magnum.

Choose 20A for breaker.  It will always be 30A, even on 50 A.  That is the based on the INVERTER breakers…30. BUT, when on 20, set it lower.  Also go into Charge Rate.  On a 20 A, my expeience and Magnum says to set on 40%.  I never set mine above 80% as it has age and will get hot.  If a GFCI trips, try 15 A.  Past that, it AIN’T GONNA WORK.  My 4 hour call to Magnum taught me a lot in 2009.

I have also included the Battery 101.  Read and heed….folks that do, are getting 9+ YEARS on Trojan T-105 batteries 

 

 

 

Thanks so much Tom ... Good info and I'll dive in deep. I look forward to being an active participant on this site. 

23 minutes ago, Scotty Hutto said:

Welcome Jeff.

I keep my coach plugged in to a 15A outlet when stored for the same reasons.  I’ve done this to keep my batteries charged and run my residential refrigerator for about 7 years with no issues.  

The keys are:

1. Make sure all large loads (AC, water heater, etc) are turned off. 
2. Set your inverter to only draw 10A from AC power. I’m not sure exactly what inverter your coach has, so I won’t attempt detailed instructions here.  If you need help with this, let us know.  The default setting is 30A which will trip the breaker (or GFCI). This does mean your batteries will charge slower when you are hooked to 30A or 50A. If that’s an issue, it’s an easy setting to change once you learn how. 

Thanks Scotty!