tierode ends and drag link 1998 monaco dynasty 34'

[Mike Farquharson]

looking to source part numbers and suppliers for the tierode ends and drag link 1998 monaco dynasty 34'

 

thanks

Mike Farquharson

[Paul J A]

https://www.hendersonslineup.com/  and https://sourcerv.com/

 

Edited March 16, 2023 by Paul A.

[Happycarz]

Check these guys, also:

https://kaiserbrakealignment.com/

Edited March 16, 2023 by Happycarz

[WRDETCOM]

I have a 2000 Monaco Diplomat 38.5’ motorhome that I have  owned for the last 4 years. A recent inspection of the front end revealed too much play in the steering drag link. I researched and priced out different options as follows:

Kaiser Alignment in Eugene, Oregon, highly recommended by other Monaco owners, quoted over the phone approx $1,000 USD to build  a new drag link with 2 adjustable ends( plus shipping, taxes and possible import charges if from Canada which also requires calculation of 37% currency exchange rate) as the OEM drag link cannot have the tie rod at the wheel end ( Pitman Arm) replaced as it is not replaceable. The removal and installation of a new drag link is an additional 2-3 hours labour if done at a shop.

A used 58” drag link from a motorhome wrecking yard was quoted at $600 USD plus taxes, shipping ( plus currency exchange and import charges for Canadian residents). A cheaper option but you are relying on the wreckers opinion that the part is going to last or fit.

An internet search revealed a new 58” Supersteer drag link for my motorhome with adjustable tie rod ends for $1499 USD plus tax and of course the currency exchange costs and import charges if a Canadian resident. Another USA supplier, Ultra Rv Products lists their drag link for $1299 USD. Plus the usual additional costs.

I considered replacing both tie rod ends using the advice in this forum, where you cut open the south end of the drag link, spread open the threading, screw in the new tie rod and then welding it in place. That would work and it is a very economical option, BUT if a collision results if the drag link failed and there was a loss of steering resulted in injury or property damage or worse, I could be found liable and I wasn’t willing to accept that risk especially with the amount of litigious preference there seems to be today. No local commercial machine shop or welder was willing to weld the cut open end and my welding abilities are limited.

***The cheapest option for my 24 year old Monaco was using a local supplier who built a  completely new drag link with 2 adjustable ( and replaceable tie rods) for $1050. CAD or approx $756 USD! I dealt with the friendly and informative Ken at Vancouver Axle and Frame located in Surrey, BC, a suburb of Vancouver. 604-882-5112 or WWW.vanaxle.com**

Good luck to anyone needing this repair. This is what I did but do your own research and due diligence before attempting this job. Removing the drag link was relatively easy. The night before I sprayed WD40 or penetrating oil onto the castle nut and the next day I removed the cotter pins and then used a 1 5/16” socket to remove the castle nuts off each end. Instead of the hammering out the tie rod from either the steering box idler arm or the wheel Pittman arm, I used a large Tie rod removal tool and tightened it until the tie rod popped out. Note: make sure to  turn the steering wheel to the left beforehand so that the tie rod, once popped, will clear the axle. The front axle beam is within 2 inches of the tie rod when the front tires  are pointing straight forward. Otherwise you won’t be able to clear  that tie rod out of the Pittman Arm hole. Installation was the reverse and of course greasing all of the tie rod nipples under the front end. And of course safety first for me. I made  sure the rear wheels of the motorhome were blocked from moving, used my front levelling jack extended to prevent the motorhome from settling while I was underneath, wore  safety goggles and ensured I did not turn the steering wheel until the new drag link was installed.

Edited August 16 by WRDETCOM

[Ivylog]

Instead of splitting the end to get the fixed end out, drill the crimped spots out and unscrew the end. Put new in and weld each hole closed.